Lonely Planet - Western USA (3rd Edition) 2016 [PDF]

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Edition 3rd Edition Release Date Apr 2016 Pages 480

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easy-to-use sections

How to Use This Book Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip.

ON THE ROAD

Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips.

1 Sights r Beaches 2 Activities C Courses T Tours

4 Sleeping 5 Eating 6 Drinking 3 Entertainment 7 Shopping

z Festivals & Events

8 & Transport

Information

All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation

UNDERSTAND

Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see.

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Your at-a-glance reference

Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access W Wi-fi access s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selection E English-language menu c Family-friendly # Pet-friendly g Bus

f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms

For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.

Vital practical information for a smooth trip.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western USA WA MT

Pacific Northwest p174 OR

Rocky Mountains p233

WY CA

California p60

NV UT

Southwest p301

OK NM TX

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Amy C Balfour, Sandra Bao, Sara Benson, Becky Ohlsen, Greg Ward

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PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Western USA. . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Western USA Map. . . . . . . 6 Western USA’s Top 25 . . . 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 20 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Route 66 & Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . . . 35 Western USA Outdoors. . . . 44 Travel with Children. . . . . 54 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 57

MITCHELL FUNK / GETTY IMAGES ©

LAS VEGAS P306

WONWOO LEE / GETTY IMAGES ©

SAN FRANCISCO P119

ON THE ROAD CALIFORNIA . . . . . . . . 60 Los Angeles. . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Southern California Coast . . . . . . . . 86 Disneyland & Anaheim . . . 86 Orange County Beaches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Around San Diego . . . . . . . 99 Palm Springs & the Deserts . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Palm Springs. . . . . . . . . . . 100 Joshua Tree National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Anza-Borrego Desert State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Mojave National Preserve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Death Valley National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Central Coast . . . . . . . . . 107 Santa Barbara. . . . . . . . . . . 107 Santa Barbara to San Luis Obispo. . . . . . . . . 110 San Luis Obispo. . . . . . . . . 111 Morro Bay to Hearst Castle . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Big Sur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Carmel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Monterey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Santa Cruz. . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Santa Cruz to San Francisco. . . . . . . . . . . 119 San Francisco & the Bay Area . . . . . . . . . . 119 San Francisco. . . . . . . . . . . 119 Marin County . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Berkeley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Northern California . . . . 147 Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . . 147 North Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Sacramento. . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Gold Country. . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Northern Mountains . . . . 160

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Sierra Nevada. . . . . . . . . 163 Yosemite National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks. . . 167 Eastern Sierra. . . . . . . . . . . 169 Lake Tahoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171

PACIFIC NORTHWEST. . . . . . . 174 Washington. . . . . . . . . . . 178 Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Around Seattle. . . . . . . . . . 191 Olympic Peninsula. . . . . . . 192 Northwest Washington. . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 San Juan Islands . . . . . . . . 196 North Cascades . . . . . . . . . 198 Northeastern Washington. . . . . . . . . . . . 200 South Cascades. . . . . . . . 202 Central & Southeastern Washington. . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Oregon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Portland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Willamette Valley . . . . . . . . 216 Columbia River Gorge. . . . 219 Oregon Cascades. . . . . . . 220 Oregon Coast . . . . . . . . . . 224 Southern Oregon . . . . . . . 228 Eastern Oregon. . . . . . . . . . 231

ROCKY MOUNTAINS. . . . . . . 233 Colorado . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Denver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Boulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Northern Mountains . . . . 249 Central Colorado . . . . . . . 253 Southern Colorado . . . . . 263 Wyoming . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Cheyenne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271

Contents UNDERSTAND Laramie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Lander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Cody. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Yellowstone National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Grand Teton National Park . . . . . . . . . . 284 Montana. . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Bozeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Gallatin & Paradise Valleys . . . . . . . . 287 Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness. . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Billings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Helena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Missoula. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Flathead Lake. . . . . . . . . . . 291 Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex . . . . 292 Whitefish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Glacier National Park . . . 293 Idaho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Boise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Ketchum & Sun Valley. . . 297 Stanley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Idaho Panhandle . . . . . . . 300

SOUTHWEST. . . . . . . 301 Nevada. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Las Vegas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Around Las Vegas . . . . . . . 317 Western Nevada. . . . . . . . . 318 The Great Basin . . . . . . . . . 321

Arizona. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Phoenix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Central Arizona. . . . . . . . . . 331 Grand Canyon National Park . . . . . . . . . . 337 Around the Grand Canyon. . . . . . . . . . 344 Northeastern Arizona. . . . 344 Western Arizona. . . . . . . . 347 Tucson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Around Tucson . . . . . . . . . . 351 Southeastern Arizona . . . 352 Utah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Salt Lake City . . . . . . . . . . 354 Park City & the Wasatch Mountains. . . 359 Northeastern Utah. . . . . . 362 Moab & Southeastern Utah. . . . . . 363 Zion & Southwestern Utah . . . . . 368 New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . 372 Albuquerque. . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Along I-40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Santa Fe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 Around Santa Fe. . . . . . . . 385 Taos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Northwestern New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . 390 Northeastern New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 Southwestern New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 Southeastern New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . 394

Western USA Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 The Way of Life. . . . . . . 412 Native Americans. . . . . 415 Western Cuisine. . . . . . . 419 Arts & Architecture . . . . 425 The Land & Wildlife . . . . 431

SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 440 Transportation . . . . . . . 451 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 478

SPECIAL FEATURES

Route 66 & Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . . . 35

Western USA Outdoors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Alcatraz 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . 126

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Western USA Landscapes and legends draw adventurers to the West, where a good day includes locavore dining, vineyard wine-sipping, cowboy history and outdoor fun. Great Outdoors

Urban Oases

When it comes to scenery in the West, the hyperbole is usually on point. Awesome. Epic. Once-in-a-lifetime. But what gives Western views extra punch? The sounds of adventure – whoosh! splash! clink! – rippling across the landscape. Surfers, kayakers and beachcombers flock to the Western coastline, which stretches north from the sunny shores of San Diego to the bluffs of central California and on to the rocky beaches of Oregon and Washington. Red rocks, gorges and prickly-pear deserts lure hikers and cyclists to the Southwest, where the biggest wonder is the 277-mile Grand Canyon. Meanwhile, in the Rockies, skiing, ice climbing and mountain-biking never looked so pretty or sounded so fun.

Western cities have distinct personalities. In California there’s the hey-bro friendliness of San Diego, the Hollywood flash of Los Angeles and the bohemian cool of San Francisco. Further north in Seattle, cuttingedge joins homegrown, often over a cup of joe. Cosmopolitan chic meets plucky frontier spirit in Denver, while patio preening and spa pampering give Phoenix a strangely compelling spoiled-girl vibe. And then there’s Las Vegas, a glitzy neon playground where you can get hitched in the Elvis Chapel, spend your honeymoon in Paris and then bet the mortgage – all in the very same weekend.

Regional Food & Wine

Museums? Save ’em for later. First you’ll want to climb a ladder into a cliff dwelling, poke around the ruins of a Pony Express station, or simply join the congregation inside a 1700s Spanish mission. What else is there to explore in the West? Crumbling forts. Abandoned mining towns. A former Titan Missile silo. Wander historic sites like these for up-close and evocative links to the region’s not-so-long-ago past.

Regional specialties are as diverse as the landscapes. One commonality? Chefs and consumers alike are focusing on fresh and locally grown food, a locavore trend that started in the West. This eco-consciousness has also been embraced by wine producers, who are increasingly implementing organic and biodynamic growing principles. And speaking of winemaking, Napa and Sonoma now share the spotlight with Washington, Oregon, central California and Arizona.

Hands-On History

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5 PUTT SAKDHNAGOOL / GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love Western USA By Amy C Balfour, Writer There’s a new adventure or awesome view after every bend in the trail. My first glimpse of the Grand Canyon (not including a first look as a toddler) came after a mad dash from my car to Mather Point during a cross-country road trip. I’ve been hooked on the West ever since. I subsequently spent seven years in Los Angeles, using the city as a launchpad for exploring Western beaches, deserts, mountains and some truly glorious national parks, not to mention lots of great restaurants. The West is a special place, worth an extended visit. For more about our writers, see page 480

Above: Falls at Havasu Canyon (p344)

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Ashland

Hines

Oregon

Alturas

Burns Junction

Canyon City

Pendleton

Lakeview

LaPine

Bend

Sisters

Biggs

Hood River

Vantage

Bliss

BOISE

Havre

Glendive

Wolf Point

Buffalo

Sundance

Casper

Douglas Lusk

Newcastle Shoshoni Mile Creek Junction

Gillette

Ranchester

River

REGINA

s sou ri

Miles City

Worland

Greybull

Yellowstone National Park

Montana

Malta

Lewistown

Cody

CANADA

Yellowstone National Park Gray wolves and Old Faithful (p277)

0 0

Big Timber Livingston

Bozeman

r ve Idaho Falls Montpelier

a Sn

Shoshone

West Yellowstone

Dillon

Butte

HELENA

Shelby

Jackpot

Twin Falls

Silver City

Payette

Challis

North Fork

Powell

Idaho

New Meadows

Lewiston

Missoula

Whitefish

Glacier

Roosville National Park

Mullan

Porthill

in nt ta

Leggett

SALEM

Longview

Ellensburg Spokane

Orondo

Washington

Calgary

Glacier National Park Ice-carved valleys plus grizzlies (p293)

Trinidad

Crescent City

Gold Beach

Otis

Portland

Cannon Beach

Newport

Winchester Bay

OCEAN

PACIFIC

OLYMPIA

Seattle

nge

Columbia River Gorge Greenery, waterfalls and windsurfers (p219)

Vancouver

Burlington

VICTORIA

San Juan Islands Paddle into the past (p196)

Cas cad

Seattle Espresso, microbrews and the Space Needle (p179)

Western USA

www.ebook3000.com Rock y

Rapid City

South Dakota

PIERRE

BISMARCK

Lake Sakakawea

North Dakota

-500ft

Sea Level

500ft

1000ft

2000ft

5000ft

9000ft

12,000ft

16,000ft

ELEVATION

500 km 300 miles

Mammoth Lakes

Baker

Modena Cedar Zion City

Salina

Utah

ve Ri

Arches National Park

Duchesne Price

Green River Beaver Moab

Scipio

Wyoming

Laramie

Colorado

Grand Junction

Silverthorne

Craig

Medicine Bow

Wray

Limon Burlington

DENVER

Boulder

Nebraska

CHEYENNE Julesburg Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park Elk and bighorn sheep (p249)

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Las Vegas Megaresorts and gambling draw crowds (p306)

'Come in!' (p86)

Beatty

O Nogales

Zion National Park Hike the Narrows and Angels Landing (p368)

d ra lo o C

Ciudad Juárez

Deming

El Paso

Saguaro National Park Wander past the cacti (p351)

Tombstone

Escalante

Grand Canyon National Park A geologic wonder (p337)

Carlsbad

Poncha Colorado Kansas Springs Springs Ouray Lamar National Monticello Lone Pine Tulare Colorado Silverton Kanab Park Mesquite City Monument Valley Durango La Junta California Death Grand Canyon San Luis Obispo Navajo Tribal Park Parosa Springs Valley Las Vegas National Park Page Monument Valley Junction Boulder Kayenta Rugged buttes and City Mojave Shiprock Grand Canyon Raton San Francisco golden spires (p367) Village Taos Alcatraz, eateries and Baker Barstow Kingman Seligman Second Golden Gate Bridge (p119) Clayton Mesa Gallup SANTA FE Texas New Needles Los Angeles Anaheim Montezuma Lake Havasu Jerome Flagstaff PACIFIC Mexico Long Beach City Albuquerque Holbrook Palm Springs OCEAN Laguna Beach Arizona Santa Amarillo Show Low Rosa Wickenburg San Los Angeles Vaughn Springerville Diego Hit the beach then Texico San Antonio PHOENIX Martinez Lake Hollywood (p64) Gila Bend Santa Fe Yuma Tijuana Hondo Glenwood Casa Grande Mexicali San Art is all around you (p378) Luis Suguaro Roswell Duncan Disneyland M Lukeville National Park Hobbs Hatch Mickey Mouse says, Lordsburg E Tucson

Ash Springs

Tonopah

Coaldale

Nevada

Ely

Vernal

Dutch John

Evanston

Diamondville

Fresno

Yosemite Village

Luning

SALT LAKE CITY

West Wendover

Tremonton

Great Salt Lake

Monterey Big Sur

Oakland

Eureka

Wells

ntai

San Jose

San Francisco

SACRAMENTO

Reno

CARSON CITY

Winnemucca

Divi

Bodega Bay

Williams

Nevada City

Susanville

Mou

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western USA’s

Top 25

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Yellowstone National Park

San Francisco

This grand park recently celebrated its 125th anniversary. What makes Yellowstone (p277) so enduring? Geologic wonders for one thing, from geysers and hot springs to fumaroles and mud pots. There’s also Mt Washburn, an impressive central peak with inspiring views from its summit. Add in a towering waterfall, a historic inn and an abundance of bison, elk, moose and bears, and you’ve described perfection. The famous gray wolves, restored in 1995, recently numbered about 95 in the park. Finally, America’s first park has the one-and-only Old Faithful, a beloved geyser still blowing its top for appreciative crowds. Grand Prismatic Spring (p278)

Change is afoot in this boom-and-bust city, currently enjoying a very highprofile boom. Amid the growth, the fog and the clatter of old-fashioned trams, the diverse neighborhoods of San Francisco (p119) invite long days of wandering, with great indie shops, world-class restaurants and bohemian nightlife. Highlights include peering into the cells at Alcatraz, strolling across the Golden Gate Bridge and dining inside the Ferry Building. And you must take at least one ride on the trolley. How cool is San Francisco? Trust us – turn that first corner to a stunning waterfront view, and you’ll be hooked. Golden Gate Bridge (p130)

JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES ©

IGNACIO PALACIOS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Grand Canyon National Park

Las Vegas

The sheer immensity of the canyon (p337) is what grabs you at first – a two-billion-year-old rip across the landscape that reveals the earth’s geologic secrets with commanding authority. But it’s Mother Nature’s artistic touches, from sun-dappled ridges and crimson buttes to lush oases and a ribbon-like river, that hold your attention and demand your return. To explore the canyon, take your pick of adventures: hiking, biking, rafting or mule riding. Or simply grab a seat along the Rim Trail and watch the canyon change colors before you.

Just when you think you’ve got a handle on the West – majestic, soulnourishing – here comes Vegas (p306). Beneath the neon lights of the Strip, it puts on a dazzling show: dancing fountains, a spewing volcano, the Eiffel Tower. But it saves its most dangerous charms for the gambling dens – seductive lairs where the fresh-pumped air and bright colors share one goal: separating you from your money. Step away if you can for fine restaurants, Cirque du Soleil, Slotzilla and the Mob Museum. The Venetian (p312)

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Pacific Coast Highways

A drive along America’s western coastline is road tripping at its finest. In California, Hwy 1 (also called the Pacific Coast Highway, or PCH; p37), Hwy 101 and I-5 pass sea cliffs, idiosyncratic beach towns and a few major cities: laidback San Diego, rocker LA and beatnik San Francisco. North of the redwoods, Hwy 101 swoops into Oregon for windswept capes, rocky tide pools and, for Twilight fans, Ecola State Park, the stand-in for werewolf haven La Push, Washington. Cross the Columbia River into Washington for wet-andwild Olympic National Park. Pacific Coast Highway near Big Sur

Los Angeles

A perpetual influx of dreamers, go-getters and hustlers gives this shiny coastal city (p64) an energetic buzz. Learn the tricks of movie-making during a studio tour. Bliss out to acoustically perfect symphony sounds in the Walt Disney Concert Hall. Wander gardens and galleries at the hilltop Getty Museum. And stargazing? Take in the big picture at the revamped Griffith Observatory or look for stylish, earthbound ‘stars’ at the Grove. Ready for your close-up darling? You will be – an hour on the beach guarantees that sun-kissed LA glow. Walt Disney Concert Hall (p67), designed by Frank Gehry

Portland

Is the dream of the ’90s alive in Portland (p205)? The characters in the award-winning indie series Portlandia sure think so, and their satiric skits make it clear that this city is a quirky but loveable place. It’s as friendly as a big town, and home to a mix of students, artists, cyclists, hipsters, young families, old hippies, ecofreaks and everything in between. There’s great food, awesome music and culture aplenty, plus it’s as sustainable as you can get. Come visit, but be careful – like everyone else, you might just want to move here!

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Yosemite National Park

Route 66

Meander through wildflower-strewn meadows in valleys carved by glaciers, avalanches and earthquakes, whose hard work makes everything look bigger here: thunderous waterfalls that tumble over sheer cliffs, enormous granite domes, ancient groves of giant sequoias, the planet’s biggest trees. For the most sublime views, perch at Glacier Point (p164) on a full-moon night or drive the high country’s dizzying Tioga Rd in summer.

As you step up to the counter at the Snow-Cap Drive In at Seligman, Arizona, you know a prank is coming – a squirt of fake mustard, perhaps, or ridiculously incorrect change. Though it’s all a bit hokey, you’d be disappointed if the owner forgot to ‘get you.’ It’s these down-home touches that make the ‘Mother Road’ (p35) – which crosses California, Arizona and New Mexico – so memorable. Begging burros, the Wigwam Motel, the neon signs of Tucumcari – a squirt of fake mustard beats a mass-consumption McBurger every time.

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Native American History & Culture

The Southwest is home to a fascinating array of Native American sites. To learn about America’s earliest inhabitants, climb into the ancient cliff-top homes of Ancestral Puebloans at Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado (p267), or study petroglyphs in Sedona (p332). For living cultures, visit Arizona’s Navajo and Hopi nations. As you’ll discover here and in regional museums, many designs have religious significance. The baskets, rugs and jewelry crafted today often put a fresh spin on the ancient traditions.

Seattle

A cutting-edge Pacific Rim city with an uncanny habit of turning locally hatched ideas into global brands, Seattle (p179) has earned its place in the pantheon of ‘great’ US metropolises with a worldrenowned music scene, an obsessive coffee culture and a penchant for internetdriven innovation. But, while Seattle’s trendsetters rush to unearth the next big thing, city traditionalists guard its soul with distinct urban neighborhoods, a home-grown food culture, and arguably the nation’s finest public market, Pike Place. Pike Place Market (p179)

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San Juan Islands

Go back in time by hopping on a ferry to the San Juan Islands (p196), a low-key archipelago north of Puget Sound between Washington and Vancouver Island. Out of the more than 450 ‘islands’ (most are only rocky promontories), only about 60 are inhabited and just four are regularly served by ferries. Nature is the main influence here and each island has its own personality, both geographic and cultural. What can you do here? Start with cycling, kayaking and spotting orcas – then just sit back and relax. Sailboats near Orcas Island (p197)

Phoenix

Sometimes you just have to ask, ‘What about me?’. Phoenix (p323) answers that question with a stylish grin. Posh resorts cater to honeymooners and families. Golfers have their pick of more than 200 golf courses. Other refined distractions range from luxurious spas and weekly art walks to top-notch museums, spotlight relaxation, Native American arts and crafts, and musical instruments. Add in patio-dining, chichi shopping and an average of 211 sunny days per year, and it’s easy to condone a bit of selfishness. Golf course, Scottsdale (p325)

Disneyland & Disney California Adventure

Inside Disneyland (p86), beloved cartoon characters waltz down Main Street, U.S.A, Space Mountain rockets through the darkness, and fireworks explode over Sleeping Beauty Castle. And yes, those AudioAnimatronics dolls are still singing ‘it’s a small world’. Next door, Disney California Adventure showcases the best of the state with a recreated Hollywood back lot, a coastal boardwalk and a patio that’s perfect for sipping California wine. The most impressive aspect of both parks? The amazing attention to detail.

Boulder

Columbia River Gorge

Tucked up against its signature Flatirons (p245), Boulder has a sweet location and a progressive soul, which has attracted a groovy bag of entrepreneurs, hippies and hard-bodies. Packs of cyclists ride the Boulder Creek Bike Path, which links to an abundance of city and county parks purchased through a popular Open Space tax. The pedestrian-only Pearl St Mall is lively, especially at night, when students from the University of Colorado and Naropa University mingle and flirt. In many ways Boulder, not Denver, is the state’s tourist hub. Flatirons (p245)

Carved by the mighty Columbia as the Cascades were uplifted, the Columbia River Gorge (p219) is a geologic marvel. With Washington State on its north side and Oregon on its south, the state-dividing gorge offers countless waterfalls and spectacular hikes, as well as an agricultural bounty of apples, pears and cherries. If you’re into windsurfing or kiteboarding, head to the sporty town of Hood River, ground zero for these extreme sports. Whether you’re a hiker, apple lover or adrenaline junkie, the gorge delivers.

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Navajo Nation

Santa Fe & Taos

’May I walk in beauty’ is the final line of a famous Navajo prayer. Beauty takes many forms on the Navajos’ sprawling reservation (p345), but makes its most famous appearance at Monument Valley, a cluster of rugged buttes and towers. Beauty swoops in on the wings of birds at Canyon de Chelly, a valley where farmers till the land near age-old cliff dwellings. Elsewhere, beauty is in the connections, from the docent explaining Navajo clans, to the guide sharing photography tips in the flickering light of Antelope Canyon. Monument Valley (p367)

Santa Fe (p378) is an old city with a very young soul. On Friday nights, art lovers flock to Canyon Rd to gab with artists, sip wine and explore more than 80 galleries. Art and history partner up in style within the city’s consortium of museums, and the food and the shopping are first rate, too. With that turquoise sky as a backdrop, the experience is darn near sublime. Artists also converge in gallery-filled Taos (p386) but the vibe is quirkier, with ski bums, off-the-grid Earthshippers and a few celebs keeping things offbeat. Santa Fe

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California Wine Country

Mountain Towns

The Golden State is home to more than 100 wine regions. The rolling vineyards of Napa (p147), Sonoma (p149) and the Russian River Valley (p150) lure travelers north from San Francisco. Sample a world-class Cabernet in chichi Napa, enjoy a picnic in laid-back Sonoma, or cap off an outdoor adventure with a complex Pinot Noir near the Russian River. Further south, day trippers head to the lovely vineyards clustered east of Santa Barbara (p110), a bucolic area made famous by the 2004 wine-centric movie Sideways. Napa Valley (p147)

Another thing the West does well? Mountain towns, where outdoorsy types drop in from the trail and the slopes to savor the microbrews. Many of the best double as gateways to the country’s finest national parks. Our favorite? Flagstaff (p334), which sits ruggedly on the Colorado Plateau in northern Arizona. Highlights include a thriving ale trail, innovative farmto-table eateries, an observatory and Route 66’s awesome Museum Club. And we almost forgot to mention the Grand Canyon, just 80 miles north. Museum Club (p336)

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Rocky Mountain National Park

The Deserts

The human-like saguaro cactus is one of the West’s most enduring symbols. A denizen of the Sonoran Desert, it’s a survivor in a landscape that’s harsh, but also strangely beautiful. Four deserts – the Sonoran, Mojave, Chihuahuan and Great Basin – stretch across the Southwest and California. Each is home to an array of well-adapted reptiles, mammals and plants. It’s this thriving diversity that makes a stroll through the desert a oneof-a-kind experience – try it at Saguaro National Park (p351). Sonoran Desert

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From behind the row of RVs growling along Trail Ridge Rd, Rocky Mountain National Park (p249) can look a bit overrun. But with hiking boots laced and the trail unfurling beneath your feet, the park’s majestic, untamed splendor becomes unforgettably personal. From epic outings on the Longs Peak Trail to family-friendly romps to Calypso Falls, there’s something here for people of every ability and ambition. With just the slightest effort, you’ll feel like you have the place to yourself. Longs Peak

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Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks

Towering red rocks hide graceful waterfalls, narrow slot canyons and hanging gardens in Zion National Park (p370). This lush wonderland lies in the shadow of Angels Landing, which is the lofty terminus of the Angels Landing Trail – one of the great North American day hikes. Photographers and view hounds should scoot north to Bryce Canyon National Park (p369), where golden-red rock spires shimmer like trees in a magical forest of stone – a hypnotic, Tolkienesque place. Zion National Park

Glacier National Park

Yep, the rumors are true. The namesake attractions at Glacier National Park (p293) are melting away. There were 150 glaciers in the area in 1850; today there are 25. But even without the giant ice cubes, Montana’s sprawling national park is worthy of an in-depth visit. Road warriors can maneuver the thrilling 50-mile Going-to-theSun Road; wildlife-watchers can scan for elk, wolves and grizzly (but hopefully not too close); and hikers have 700 miles of trails, trees and flora – including mosses, mushrooms and wildflowers – to explore.

Microbreweries

Microbreweries (p423) are a specialty of the West, and you’ll find at least one good one in outdoorsy towns from Missoula to Moab. Though usually closely identified with their home towns, these popular watering holes share a few commonalities: boisterous beer sippers, deep-flavored brews with locally inspired names, and cavernous drinking rooms that smell of sweat and adventure. Hiking, biking or climbing near Boulder? Relax post-adventure with a Pearl Street Porter at Mountain Sun Pub & Brewery (p248).

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Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p439)

Currency US dollar ($)

When to Go

Language

Seattle GO Jun–Sep

English

Visas Visitors from Canada, the UK, Australia, New Zealand, Japan and many EU countries do not need visas for less than 90 days, with ESTA approval. Other nations, see travel.state.gov.

San Francisco # GO May–Oct

Money ATMs widely available. Credit cards normally required for hotel reservations and car rentals.

Cell Phones GSM multiband models will work in the USA. Coverage can be spotty in remote or mountainous areas.

Time The 11 states follow either Mountain Standard Time (GMT/ UTC minus seven hours) or Pacific Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus eight hours). For more information see p448.

Salt Lake City # GO Jan–Dec Denver # GO May–Aug

Las Vegas GO Jan–Dec

Los Angeles # GO Apr–Oct # Phoenix GO Oct–May Desert climate Dry climate Warm to hot summers, mild winters Mild summers, cold winters

High Season Shoulder (Apr & (Jun–Aug; Sep–Apr) May; Sep & Oct)

Low Season (Nov–Mar)

¨¨Busiest season; sunny days and higher accommodation prices.

¨¨Crowds and prices drop along the coast and in the mountains.

¨¨Accommodation rates drop by the coast.

¨¨A good time to visit national parks, with milder temperatures.

¨¨Dark, wintery days, with snowfall in the north and heavier rains.

¨¨Clouds may blanket the southern coast during May and June. ¨¨Mountain high season January to March; deserts September to April.

¨¨Blooming spring flowers; fiery autumn colors.

Websites

American Southwest (www. americansouthwest.net) Parks and landscapes.

National Park Service (www. nps.gov) Information on national parks and monuments. Recreation.gov (www.recreation. gov) Camping reservations on federally managed lands. Roadside America (www.road sideamerica.com) Find ‘uniquely odd tourist attractions.’

Important Numbers

Budget: Less than $100 ¨¨Campgrounds and hostel dorms: $12–45 ¨¨Free activities (beach, park concerts): $0 ¨¨Food at farmers markets, taquerias, street vendors: $3–12 ¨¨Bus, subway: $0–5

Midrange: $100–200 ¨¨Mom-and-pop motels, lowpriced chains: $70–120 ¨¨Museums, national and state parks: $5–25 ¨¨Diners, good local restaurants: $12–35

To call any regular number, dial the area code, followed by the seven-digit number.

¨¨Car rental per day, excluding insurance and gas: from $30

Getting Around

International access code

%011

¨¨B&Bs, boutique hotels, resorts: from $190

Emergency

%911

¨¨Meal in top restaurant, excluding wine: $25-55

Directory assistance

%411

¨¨Convertible rental per day: from $70

Statewide road conditions

%511

Opening Hours

Australia A$1

$0.72

Canada

C$1

$0.75

Europe

€1

$1.06

China

Y10

$1.56

Japan

¥100

$0.81

Mexico

MXN10

$0.60

New Zealand

NZ$1

$0.66

£1

$1.51

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Los Angeles International Airport (p85) Taxis cost about $46 to downtown; door-to-door shuttles from $16 for shared ride; free Shuttle G to Metro Rail Green Line Aviation Station and free Shuttle C to the Metro Bus Center; FlyAway bus to downtown LA is $8.

¨¨Hiring an outdoor outfitter; going to a top show: from $80

USA country code

Exchange Rates

Denver International Airport (p245) Check the airport website (www.flydenver.com) for details about the new hotel and transit center set to open in early 2016. The project includes a commuter rail system linking to downtown Denver, a 35-minute ride. Taxis cost $56 to downtown Denver and $89 to Boulder.

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (p190) Light-rail trains run regularly from the 4th floor of the parking garage to downtown from 5am to 1am Monday to Saturday and 6am to midnight on Sunday ($2.25 to $3); taxis are available on the 3rd floor of the parking garage and cost $46 to downtown.

Top End: More than $200

National %800-656Sexual Assault 4673 Hotline

Arriving in Western USA

Opening hours vary throughout the year, with many attractions and visitor centers open longer hours in high season. We’ve provided high-season hours. Banks 8:30am–4:30pm Monday to Thursday, to 5:30pm Friday (some 9am–noon Saturday) Bars 5pm–midnight Sunday to Thursday, to 2am Friday and Saturday Cafes 7:30am–8pm Restaurants 11am–2:30pm and 5pm–9pm; many Utah restaurants are closed on Sunday Stores 10am–6pm Monday to Saturday, noon–5pm Sunday

Car The best option for travelers who leave urban areas to explore national parks and more remote areas. Drive on the right. Train Amtrak can be slow due to frequent delays, but trains are a convenient option for travel along the Pacific Coast. Crosscountry routes to Chicago run from the San Francisco area and Los Angeles. Bus Cheaper and slower than trains; can be a good option for travel to cities not serviced by Amtrak.

For much more on getting around, see p453

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Lonely Planet (www.lonely planet.com/usa) Destination info, bookings and forums.

Daily Costs

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If You Like… Geology Grand Canyon A 277-mile river cuts through two-billionyear-old rocks, whose layered geological secrets are revealed within a mile-high stack. (p337) Yellowstone National Park Massive geysers, rainbowcolored thermal pools and a supervolcano base – this 3472-sq-mile national park puts on a dazzling show. (p277) Arches National Park Drive, hike or bike past sandstone arches, windows, fins and a precariously balanced rock. (p365) White Sands National Monument The white and chalky gypsum dunes here are mesmerizing. (p394) Carlsbad Caverns A 1.25-mile trail descends to the Big Room – a veritable underground cathedral concealed in a massive cave system. (p396) Chiricahua National Monument A rugged wonderland of rock chiseled by rain and wind into pinnacles, bridges and balanced rocks. (p353) Volcanoes The earth’s shifting crust formed powerful volcanoes in Washington. Hike around Mt Rainier or visit Mt St Helens to learn about its mighty 1980 eruption. (p202)

Old West Sites The Southwest, particularly Arizona and New Mexico, is your best bet if you want to walk in the footsteps of cowboys and gunslingers at sites within a day’s drive of each other. Lincoln Billy the Kid’s old stomping – and shooting – grounds during the Lincoln County War. (p395) Tombstone Famous for the gunfight at the OK Corral, this dusty town is also home to Boot Hill Graveyard and the Bird Cage Theater. (p352) Whiskey Row A block of Victorian-era saloons in downtown Prescott has survived fires, filmmakers and tourists. (p331) Pony Express stations Rte 50 across Nevada, known as the Loneliest Road, traces the route of the Pony Express; several crumbling changing stations line the highway. (p321) Virginia City Site of the Comstock Lode silver strike, this hard-charging mining town gained notoriety in Mark Twain’s semi-autobiographical book Roughing It. (p321) Steam train Channel the Old West on the steam-driven train that’s chugged between Durango and Silverton for 125 years. (p269)

Life-List Thrills Half Dome Hold tight to steel cables while scrambling to the summit of Yosemite’s most recognizable rock. (p163) Raft the Grand Canyon The Colorado River roars through the depths of the Big Ditch for 277 miles. (p342) Carlsbad Caverns The elevator drops the length of the Empire State Building in less than one minute. (p396) Angels Landing Sheer drops flank the whip-thin trail to the top of Angels Landing in Zion National Park. (p370) Stratosphere Leap from the top of a 110-story casino. In Las Vegas of course. (p312) Audrey Headframe Park Stand on the clear panel covering the 1910ft deep mineshaft in Jerome, AZ. Look down. (p332)

Film & TV Locations Los Angeles Hollywood was born here, and iconic celluloid sites beckon from Mulholland Dr to Malibu. (p64) Monument Valley Stride John Wayne tall beneath the iconic red monoliths that starred in seven of the Duke’s westerns. (p367)

Moab & around The directors of Thelma & Louise and 127 Hours shot their most dramatic scenes in nearby parks. (p364) Albuquerque Tax incentives lure production companies. The city is the backdrop for the TV series Better Call Saul and predecessor Breaking Bad. (p372)

Fabulous Food San Francisco Temptations await: real-deal taquerias and trattorias, top-notch Vietnamese, magnificent farmers markets and trailblazing chefs. (p136) Chez Panisse Chef Alice Waters revolutionized California cuisine in the ’70s with Bay Area locavarian cooking. (p146) Food trucks LA sparked the mobile gourmet revolution, but the food truck craze also thrives in San Francisco (p137) and Portland (p212).

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Green chiles The chiles grown in the town of Hatch are the pride of New Mexico. This spicy accompaniment is slathered over enchiladas, layered onto cheeseburgers and celebrated at the Hatch Chile Festival. (p28) Las Vegas Great food is never a gamble in Sin City, with famous chefs, decadent buffets and flavor-rich Asian restaurants. (p312)

Emerging Wine Regions

Top: Foodie heaven at the Ferry Building (p120), San Francisco Bottom: Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (p269), Colorado

Verde Valley wine country Home to an up-and-coming Arizona wine trail that winds through Cottonwood, Jerome and Cornville. (p332)

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Las Vegas Bad boys and their hijinks brought Sin City back to the big screen in Ocean’s Eleven and The Hangover. (p306)

24 Willamette Valley Outside Portland, OR, this fertile region produces some of the tastiest Pinot Noir on the planet. (p216)

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Walla Walla Washington’s hot wine-growing region, with its namesake town as a very pretty centerpiece. (p203) Santa Barbara Wine Country Large-scale winemaking since the 1980s, and the climate is perfect for Pinots near the coast and further inland. (p110)

Hiking Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Earn bragging rights on this classic 17-mile trek on the South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trails between the Grand Canyon’s south and north rims. (p337) Red Rock Country Hike to vortexes in Sedona, hoodoos in Bryce Canyon, and slender spans in Arches (p365) and Canyonlands National Parks (p366). Rocky Mountain National Park Longs Peak gets all the buzz but there are several loop trails best done in two or three nights; wildlife sightings are the norm. (p249) Wonderland Trail Circumnavigate Mt Rainier’s lofty peak – it’s 93 miles of spectacular nature. (p202) Palm Springs & the Deserts Discover hidden palm-tree oases, stroll across salt flats or take a guided walk through Native American canyons. (p100) Los Angeles Urban hiking at its best, with mountaintop trails overlooking the coast and the celeb-favored Runyon Canyon. (p77) Highline Trail This stunner in Glacier National Park passes bighorn sheep, mountain wildflowers and snow-capped peaks, with a side-hike to glacier views. (p293)

National Parks Theodore Roosevelt once said that camping in Yellowstone was like lying in a vast and beautiful cathedral. Similar high praise can be applied to all of the great parks of the West – unique in their details but bound by their grandeur.

Roswell Did a UFO crash outside Roswell, New Mexico, in 1947? Museums and a UFO festival explore whether the truth is out there. (p396) Seattle’s public sculptures In Fremont, look for a car-eating troll, a human-faced dog, and folks waiting, and waiting, for the train. (p183)

Yellowstone National Park The nation’s first park is a stunner: lakes, waterfalls, mountains, wildlife galore and a cauldron of geysers and springs. (p277)

Venice Boardwalk Gawk at the human zoo, which includes chainsaw-jugglers, medical marijuana ‘clinicians’ and Speedo-clad snake-charmers. (p73)

Grand Canyon National Park Two billion years of geologic history? Yeah, yeah, that’s cool, but have you seen that view? (p337)

Frozen Dead Guy Days Celebrates a cryogenically frozen Norwegian, kept cold in Nederland, CO, for more than 20 years. (p27)

Glacier National Park Come for the glaciers, stay for the Goingto-the-Sun Road, grand old lodges and free-range animals. (p293)

The Loneliest Road A singing sand dune and a scraggly Shoe Tree are quirky distractions on Hwy 50 in Nevada. (p321)

Yosemite National Park Flanked by El Capitan and Half Dome, Yosemite Valley is indeed cathedral-like, but the lush Sierra Nevada backcountry will have you singing hallelujah, too. (p163) Southern Utah There’s too much red-rock goodness in Utah to narrow it down to one fave. Arches (p365), Canyonlands (p366), Bryce (p369), Zion (p370) and Capitol Reef (p368) – see ’em all!

Offbeat Stuff Route 66 This two-lane ode to Americana is dotted with wacky roadside attractions, especially in western Arizona. (p35) Burning Man Festival A temporary city in the Nevada desert attracts more than 66,000 people for a week of self-expression and blowing sand. (p320)

Mini Time Machine Museum of Miniatures The exhibits get small, very small, at this whimsical museum in Tucson, Arizona. (p348)

Historic Sites Dinosaur National Monument Touch a 150-million-year-old fossil at one of the largest dinosaur fossil beds in North America. (p363) Mesa Verde Climb to cliff dwellings that housed Ancestral Puebloans more than 700 years ago. (p267) Manzanar National Historic Site This WWII Japanese American internment camp interprets a painful chapter of the USA’s collective past. (p169) Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument Native American battlefields where General George Custer made his famous ‘last stand’ against the Lakota Sioux. (p289)

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Balboa Park (p92), San Diego

Los Alamos The community that arose on this lonely mesa southwest of Santa Fe was top secret during WWII – a necessity for the scientists developing the atomic bomb. (p385)

four-story rainforest and living roof. (p131)

soothing, hydro-healing warmth. (p391)

Balboa Park Museum-hop in San Diego’s favorite park where you can dive into top-notch art, history and science exhibitions. (p92)

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa Four types of mineral water soothe guests in pools at this 145-year-old resort north of Santa Fe. (p386)

Museums

Heard Museum Highlights the history and culture of Southwestern tribes. (p323)

Phoenix & Scottsdale Honeymooners, families, golfers – there’s a resort for all travelers within a few miles of Camelback Rd. (p327)

Getty Center & Villa Art museums as beautiful as their ocean views in west LA and Malibu. (p73) Los Angeles County Museum of Art More than 150,000 works of art spanning the ages and crossing all borders. (p72) California Academy of Sciences SF’s natural-history museum breathes ‘green’ in its eco-certified design, with a

EMP Museum Enjoy a little fantasy, a little sci-fi and a lot of rock ‘n’ roll at the Experience Music Project in Seattle. (p183)

Spas & Resorts Truth or Consequences Built over hot springs beside the Rio Grande, pools bubble with

Las Vegas Mandalay Bay, Cosmopolitan and other top hotels offer lavish resort amenities. (p311) Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort & Spa On the Gila Indian Reservation, this resort embraces its Native American heritage with style. (p328)

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Month by Month TOP EVENTS Sundance Film Festival, January Cactus League, March and early April Telluride Bluegrass Festival, June Great American Beer Festival, September Halloween Carnaval, October

moviegoers who flock to the mountain town in late January for a week of cutting-edge films (www. sundance.org/festival).

3 Cowboy Poetry Wranglers and ropers gather in Elvo, NV, for a week of poetry readings and folklore performances (www.westernfolklife.org). Started in 1985, this event has inspired cowboy poetry readings across the region.

January Skiers and snowboarders descend on lofty ski resorts. Palm Springs and southern deserts welcome travelers seeking warmer climes and saguaro-dotted landscapes.

z Tournament of Roses

This famous New Year’s Day parade (www.tournamentofroses.com) of flowerfestooned floats, marching bands and prancing equestrians draws about 700,000 spectators to Pasadena, CA, before the Rose Bowl college football game.

3 Sundance Film Festival

Park City, UT, unfurls the red carpet for indie filmmakers, actors and

February It’s the height of ski season, but there are plenty of distractions for those not swooshing down the slopes – low-desert wildflowers bloom, whales migrate off the California coast, and dude ranches saddle up in southern Arizona.

z Carnival in Colorado

Mardi Gras meets the mountains in Breckenridge (www.gobreck.com/events/ mardi-gras), where folks celebrate with a street party, live jazz and, well, fire dancers.

z Tucson Gem & Mineral Show

At the largest mineral and gem show in the US (www. tgms.org/calendar), held the second full weekend in February, about 250 dealers sell jewelry, fossils, crafts and lots of rocks. Lecture seminars and a silent auction round out the weekend.

3 Oregon

Shakespeare Festival In Ashland, tens of thousands of theater fans party with the Bard at this nine-month festival (that’s right!) that kicks off in February and features world-class plays and Elizabethan drama (p229; www. osfashland.org).

March Ah spring, when a young man’s fancy turns to thoughts of…beer! Jet skis! Parties! March is spring-break season, when hordes of college students converge on Arizona’s lakes. Families ski or visit parks in warmer climes.

2 Spring WhaleWatching Week

Gray whales migrate along the Pacific Coast (p50).

Around Oregon’s Depoe Bay, it’s semi-organized, with docents and special viewpoints. The northward migration happens through June. Major league baseball fans head to southern Arizona in March and early April for the preseason Cactus League (www.cactusleague. com), when some of the best pro teams play ball in Phoenix and Tucson.

z Frozen

Dead Guy Days Celebrate a cryogenically frozen town mascot, ‘Grandpa Bredo,’ in Nederland, CO, with coffin races, ice turkey bowling, a polar plunge and copious beer drinking (http://frozen deadguydays.org).

April Wildflowers bloom in California’s high deserts while migrating birds swoop into nature preserves in southern Arizona. For ski resorts, it’s shoulder season, meaning slightly lower room prices (except Easter weekend).

3 Coachella

Music & Arts Festival Indie rock bands, cult DJs, superstar rappers and pop divas converge outside Palm Springs for this musical extravaganza (www. coachella.com), now held on two consecutive long weekends in mid-April.

of Nations

More than 3000 Native American dancers and singers from the US and Canada compete in this powwow (www.gathering ofnations.com) in late April in Albuquerque, NM. There’s also an Indian market with more than 800 artists and craftspeople.

May A great time to visit most national parks, which are ready for the summer crush but with children still in school the masses don’t show until Memorial Day weekend, the last weekend of the month.

z Cinco de Mayo Celebrate the victory of Mexican forces over the French army at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862, with margaritas, music and merriment. Denver, Los Angeles and San Diego do it in style. (p238)

2 Bay to Breakers Tens of thousands run costumed, naked and/or clutching beer from Embarcadero to Ocean Beach in San Francisco on the third Sunday in May. The race dates from 1912. (p132)

z Boulder Creek Festival

Start the summer in the Rockies on Memorial Day weekend with food, drink, music, a rubber duck race and glorious sunshine. It closes with Bolder Boulder, a 10km race celebrated by screaming crowds. (p246)

3 Sasquatch! Indie music fans converge at the outdoor Gorge Amphitheater in George, WA, near the Columbia River Gorge, for live music on Memorial Day weekend (www. sasquatchfestival.com).

June High season begins for most of the West. Rugged passes are open, rivers are thick with snowmelt and mountain wildflowers bloom. There may be gray fog (June gloom) over southern California beaches.

z Pride Month California’s LGBTQ pride celebrations occur throughout June, with costumed parades, coming-out parties, live music and more. The biggest, bawdiest celebrations are in Los Angeles (http://lapride.org) and San Francisco. (p132)

3 Telluride

Bluegrass Festival In mid-June, join ‘Festivarians’ for the high lonesome sounds of bluegrass in the mountain-flanked beauty of Telluride, CO. (p265)

July Vacationers head to beaches, theme parks, mountain resorts, and state and national parks. Broiling desert parks are best avoided.

3 Aspen

Music Festival From early July to midAugust, top-tier classical performers put on

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3 Cactus League

3 Gathering

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spectacular shows (www. aspenmusic festival.com) while students from orchestras led by sought-after conductors bring street corners to life with smaller groups.

z Independence Day

Across the West, communities celebrate America’s birth with rodeos, music festivals, parades and fireworks on July 4.

z Comic-Con International

‘Nerd Prom’ is the altnation’s biggest annual convention (www.comic-con. org) of comic-book geeks, sci-fi and animation lovers, and pop-culture memorabilia collectors. Held in San Diego in mid-July.

3 Cheyenne Froniter Days

Celebrate the American cowboy with roping, riding and a parade at this 115-year-old Wyoming rodeo (www.cfdrodeo.com).

6 Oregon

Brewers Festival During this fun beer festival (www.oregonbrewfest. com) in Portland, about 85,000 microbrew lovers eat, drink and whoop it up on the banks of the Willamette River. Held the last full weekend in July.

August Learn about Native American culture at art fairs, markets and ceremonial gatherings across the Southwest.

Rodeos are popular in Colorado and Arizona.

5 Hatch

2 Sturgis

On Labor Day weekend, join hot-pepper lovers in Hatch, NM, for a parade, a mariachi competition and numerous chile-eating contests (www.hatchchilefest. com).

Motorcycle Rally This convivial gathering of motorcycle fanatics (www. sturgismotorcyclerally.com) celebrated its 75th birthday in 2015. Get your motor running in southern South Dakota in early August.

z Old Spanish Days Fiesta

A celebration of early rancho culture with parades, a rodeo, crafts exhibits and shows (www.oldspanish days-fiesta.org) in Santa Barbara in early August.

1 Perseids Peaking in mid-August, these annual meteor showers are the best time to catch shooting stars with your naked eye or a digital camera. Try http://darksky. org for info. For optimal viewing, head into the southern deserts.

1 Santa Fe

Indian Market Santa Fe’s most famous festival is held the third week of August on the historic plaza where more than 1100 artists from about 220 tribes and pueblos exhibit. (p381)

Chile Festival

3 Burning Man Outdoor celebration of self-expression known for elaborate art displays, an easygoing barter system, blowing sand and the final burning of the man. This temporary city rises in the Nevada desert the week before Labor Day. (p320)

6 Great American Beer Festival

This three-day celebration of beer in Denver in late September or early October is so popular it always sells out in advance, with 700 US breweries getting in on the sudsy action. More than 3500 beers available. (p238)

3 Bumbershoot In early September, Seattle’s biggest arts and cultural event (www.bumber shoot.com) hosts hundreds of musicians, artists, comedians, writers and theater troupes on various stages.

October September Summer’s last hurrah is the Labor Day holiday weekend. It’s a particularly nice time to visit the Pacific Northwest, where nights are cool and days are reliably sunny. Fall colors begin to appear in the Rockies.

Shimmering aspens lure road-trippers to Colorado and northern New Mexico for the annual fall show. Watch for ghouls, ghosts and hard-partying maniacs as Halloween, on October 31, approaches.

z International Balloon Fiesta

1 Sedona

Arts Festival This fine-art show (www. sedonaartsfestival.org) overflows with jewelry, ceramics, glass and sculptures in early October when 125 artists exhibit their works at Sedona’s Red Rock High School.

3 Litquake Author readings, discussions and literary events (www.litquake.org) such as the legendary pub crawl in San Francisco in midOctober.

z Halloween Carnaval

Hundreds of thousands of costumed revelers come out to play in LA’s West Hollywood LGBTQ neighborhood for all-day partying, dancing, kids’ activities and live entertainment (www.weho. org/visitors/events-in-thecity/halloween-carnaval).

November

December

Temperatures drop across the West. Most coastal areas, deserts and parks are less busy, with the exception of the Thanksgiving holiday. Ski season begins.

’Tis the season for nativity scenes, holiday light shows and other celebrations of Christmas. The merriment continues through New Year’s Eve. Expect crowds and higher prices at ski resorts.

z Día de

los Muertos Mexican communities honor dead ancestors on November 2 with costumed parades, sugar skulls, graveyard picnics, candlelight processions and fabulous altars.

6 Wine Country Thanksgiving

More than 160 wineries in the Willamette Valley (www.willamettewines. co) open their doors to the public for three days in late November.

2 Yellowstone Ski Festival

Thanksgiving week celebration at West Yellowstone (http://yellowstoneski festival.squarespace.com) is a great time for ski buffs and newcomers alike. Highlights include ski clinics and races. Nordic skiing kicks off around this time, too.

z Holiday

Light Displays Communities decorate boats, parks and shopping malls with twinkling lights. In California, watch colorful boat parades in Newport Beach and San Diego, or check out illuminated displays in LA’s Griffith Park Zoo. The Desert Botanical Gardens are aglow in Phoenix, as is the Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village in Sedona.

z Snow Daze Vail, CO, marks the opening of the mountain with a week-long festival (www. vail.com/events/snowdaze.aspx) featuring an expo village, parties and plenty of big-name live performances.

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Look to the skies in early October for the world’s biggest gathering of hot-air balloons in Albuquerque, NM. (p374)

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Itineraries É

NEVADA

12 [ Ù

Arches National Park # ÷ # Moab • Canyonlands # ÷ National Park É

UTAH É

15 Ó U V

• #

Monument Valley

Valley of Fire State Park • # Las Vegas • #

Grand Canyon National Park

• #

Hoover Dam

ARIZONA

÷ #

#•

2 KS Rolling Through Red Rocks

WEE

Cameras get a workout on this tour, which spotlights the most iconic sites in the Southwest. You’ll loop past the region’s most famous city, its biggest canyon and its most breathtaking red-rock scenery. Start in Las Vegas and spend a few days traveling the world on the Strip. Partied out? Head east to swoop past the Hoover Dam, then say hello to the Grand Canyon National Park. You’ll want a couple of days to explore America’s most famous park. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, descend from the South Rim into the chasm on a mule and spend the night at Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor. From the Grand Canyon head northeast to Monument Valley, with scenery straight out of a Hollywood western, to the national parks in Utah’s southeast corner – they’re some of the most visually stunning in the country. Hike the shape-shifting slot canyons of Canyonlands National Park, mountain bike slickrock outside Moab or take a photo of Balanced Rock in Arches National Park. Drive west on one of the most spectacular stretches of pavement, Hwy 12, until it hooks up with I-15. Swing south to for a sunset meditation at Valley of Fire State Park, before heading back to Las Vegas.

31 CANADA Seattle • # WASHINGTON Rainier ÷ Mt # National Park

MEXICO

4KS Wandering along the West Coast

WEE

Hug a tree, surf a wave and taste the fresh deliciousness of west coast fare on this nature lover’s trip which ribbons from Seattle to San Diego. Kick off with fresh-roasted coffee in java-loving Seattle and check out the city’s sprawling food markets, microbreweries and waterfront. Heading south, visit Mt Rainier National Park, where superb hiking trails and relaxing inns nestle beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue to the cutting-edge city of Portland, known for its sprawling parks, eco-minded residents and progressive urbanism – plus food carts, coffeehouse culture and great nightlife. Wonder at waterfalls and indulge in fresh roadside produce with a scenic drive east along the Columbia River Gorge, then turn south and make for Mt Hood for winter skiing or summer hiking. Further adventures await at the Sisters, a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake. Catch a Shakespearian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy coast. Enter California via Hwy 199 and stroll through the magnificent old-growth forests in Redwood National & State Parks. Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose yourself on the Lost Coast, and catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino, where the scenic headlands and rugged shoreline make for a requisite wander. For wine tasting with a photogenic backdrop, travel inland to the rolling vineyards of the Napa & Sonoma Valleys, then continue south to romantically hilly, ever free-spirited San Francisco. Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey and beatnik-flavored Big Sur. In no time, you’ll reach the surreal Hearst Castle and laidback, collegiate San Luis Obispo. Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara for shopping and wine tasting then hop aboard a ferry in Ventura to the wildlife-rich Channel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead – indulge your fantasies of Hollywood then stroll the rugged hills of Griffith Park, followed by cruise through LA’s palm-lined neighborhoods. After racking up a few sins in the City of Angels, move south to wander the bluffs of Laguna Beach then cruise into picture-perfect San Diego.

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# Columbia River Gorge Portland • # • MONTANA RMt Hood Sisters R Crater # Lake • OREGON IDAHO # ÷ • Redwood National # Ashland & State Parks • # Arcata • # WYOMING Eureka PACIFIC # Lost Coast • OCEAN # Mendocino • NEVADA É Napa & • # Sonoma Valleys # San Francisco • UTAH • # Santa Cruz COLORADO • # Monterey • # Big Sur # Hearst Castle • • # San Luis Obispo CALIFORNIA # É Santa Barbara • # Channel Islands • • # Los Angeles • # Laguna Beach NEW MEXICO ARIZONA # San Diego •

STEPHEN SAKS / GETTY IMAGES ©

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Bottom: Silverton (p267), Colorado

ALAN COPSON / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top: Grand Teton National Park (p284), Wyoming

33 CANADA PA C I F I C

WASHINGTON

OCEAN

Glacier ÷ National # Park

Marshall # Bob ÷ Wilderness Complex

• # Missoula

IDAHO

• # Bozeman

Yellowstone

# National Park ÷ Teton ÷ Grand # National Park É

Jackson Hole • #

• #

Lander

WYOMING

NEVADA

Rocky Mountain

÷ National Park #

UTAH Vail • #

CALIFORNIA

• # Boulder

COLORADO • # Ouray Telluride • # • # Silverton • # Durango ARIZONA

NEW MEXICO

3 KS Rocky Mountain High

WEE

Pack your bathing suit, mountain bike and hiking boots for this high-altitude cruise atop the Continental Divide; from here, rivers flow toward the west on one side and toward the east on the other. Spend your first two days enjoying craft beers and single-track mountain-biking trails in Durango, a fine mountain town. From here, take the Million Dollar Hwy (Hwy 550) north through the San Juan Mountain range, sightseeing in Silverton and dipping into hot springs in Ouray. Take a side trip to Telluride for a festival – there’s one almost every weekend in summer. From Montrose, drive east on Hwy 50 before continuing to Hwy 24 north. Finish your first week in style with an overnight stay in ritzy Vail. Enjoy kayaking, rock climbing and people-watching in high-energy Boulder then twist up to Rocky Mountain National Park to hike and horseback ride. While here, drive the thrilling Trail Ridge Rd through alpine vistas. Continue north on I-25. In Wyoming, take I-80 west to Hwy 287; follow this highway to Lander for rock climbing. Continue north to Jackson Hole, another fun gateway town. Anchored by a central park surrounded by chic stores and cowboy bars, it’s a good place to relax, catch a rodeo or spend the night before rafting the Snake River. From here, it’s an easy glide north into Grand Teton National Park, a scenic spot for a lazy lake day and a mountain stroll. Next up is mighty Yellowstone National Park, where geysers, bison and hiking are highlights. Start your last week with a drive on the gorgeous Beartooth Hwy, following it into Montana then hooking onto I-90 west to Bozeman and Missoula; both are good places to stock up before the final push. Serious nature awaits in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, while Glacier National Park is a place to visit now – there are still some 25 glaciers hanging tight, but they may not be there for long. Scan for wildlife on a hike, then end with a drive on the stunning Going-to-the-Sun Road.

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OREGON

MONTANA

34 CANADA Seattle • #

Glacier ÷ National Park #

WASHINGTON Portland • # • # Columbia River Gorge

MONTANA É

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Bend • # É

OREGON

÷ #

# Yellowstone ÷ National Park

IDAHO

÷ Grand Teton #

National Park

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Yosemite National Park

WYOMING

UTAH

Boulder

• # • # Denver

÷ #

Sequoia & Kings Canyon ÷ National Parks #

San Francisco • # Big Sur • # # Hearst Castle •

÷ #

Las Vegas • #

Death Valley # National Park Santa Barbara • Disneyland • # • Los Angeles # • # Orange County San Diego • #

Mesa Verde National Park

COLORADO

÷ #

÷ Grand Canyon # National Park

• #

Meteor Crater ARIZONA

OCEAN

NEVADA

Redwood National & State Parks

• #

• # Taos • # Santa Fe

Albuquerque

NEW MEXICO

MEXICO

4KS Western US Grand Tour

WEE

This lasso loop corrals the best of the west as it rolls north along the California coast, cruises through the lush landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, the alpine villages of the Rockies and the glowing red-rock beauty of the Southwest, with a final swing back into California for a hit-parade tour of the state’s national parks. From sunny San Diego, follow Hwy 1 north through the surf-loving coastal villages of Orange County, detouring to Disneyland before driving into shiny Los Angeles. Continue up the coast on scenic Hwy 1, stopping to shop and sample wine in glossy Santa Barbara. Gawk at gawdy Hearst Castle then continue north through woodsy Big Sur. Dine and shop then wander through Alcatraz in bohemian San Francisco. Return to Hwy 1 for the quirky towns dotting the northern California coast. View the big trees in Redwood National & State Parks and continue into Oregon, taking time for outdoor fun in Bend. Soak in the greenery traveling west along the Columbia River Gorge, then spend a few days savoring brews and views in Portland. Zip up the Space Needle in Seattle and drive east into wide-open Montana, heading for the outdoor wonders of Glacier National Park. Continue south into Yellowstone National Park where Old Faithful blasts regularly beside its namesake lodge, and sightseers brake for buffalo. Swoosh below majestic peaks in Grand Teton National Park before swinging southeast through Wyoming’s vast cowboy plains. In Colorado, breathe deep in outdoorsy Boulder then embrace the charms of city life in bustling Denver. The mining towns of the San Juan Mountains are next, followed by Mesa Verde National Park. Just south in New Mexico, artist meccas Taos and Santa Fe are fab stops for one-of-a-kind gifts. Slurp green chile stew in Albuquerque and follow Route 66 west into Arizona, stopping at Meteor Crater before detouring north for Grand Canyon National Park. Continue west to Las Vegas, then drive into central California for Death Valley National Park, and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, concluding with Yosemite National Park. Complete the loop with a glass of California wine in San Francisco.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Plan Your Trip

Route 66 & Scenic Drives

Underground minerals drew prospectors and adventurers to the West in the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, the allure is in the above-ground treasures: the stunning drives. From desert backroads and coastal highways to mountain-hugging thrill rides to the iconic Mother Road, the West is chock-full of picturesque byways and backroads.

Route 66 A wigwam motel. A meteor crater. Begging burros. And a solar-powered Ferris wheel overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Hmm, looks like ‘Get your kitsch on Route 66’ might be a better slogan for the scrubby stretch of Mother Road running through California, Arizona and New Mexico. It’s a bit off-thebeaten path, but folks along the way will be very glad you’re here.

Why Go History, scenery and the open road. This alluring combination is what makes a Route 66 road trip so enjoyable. Navigators should note that I-40 and Route 66 overlap through much of New Mexico and Arizona. In New Mexico, the neon signs of Tucumcari are a fun-loving welcome to the West. They also set the mood for adventure – the right mood to have before dropping into the scuba-ready Blue Hole in Santa Rosa. Fuel up on lip-smacking green chile stew at Frontier in Albuquerque then grab a snooze at the 1937 El Rancho motel (p378) – John Wayne slept here! – in Gallup. In Arizona, swoop off the highway for a grand drive through Petrified Forest National Park (p347). First up? Sweeping views of the Painted Desert. Trade

Road-Trip Necessities Top Tips

A prepared road-tripper is a happy road-tripper, especially in the West, with its lonely roads and unpredictable weather. Pack a spare tire and tool kit (eg jack, jumper cables, ice scraper), as well as emergency equipment in your vehicle; if you’re renting a car, consider buying a roadside safety kit. Bring good maps, especially if you’re touring away from highways; don’t depend on GPS units as they may not work in remote areas. Carry extra water. You may need it if the car breaks down in the desert. Fill up the tank regularly; gas stations can be few and far between in the West. Always carry your license and proof of insurance.

Best Roadside Dining

Turquoise Room (p346), Route 66, Winslow, AZ Hell’s Backbone Grill (p368), Highway 12, Boulder, UT Asylum Restaurant (p332), Highway 89/89A, Jerome, AZ Frontier (p375), Route 66, Albuquerque, NM Santa Barbara Shellfish Co (p109), Pacific Coast Highway, Santa Barbara, CA

Scenic Drives

0 0

1000 km 500 miles

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Route 66 Pacific Coast Highway Highway 89/89A Million Dollar Highway Beartooth Highway Highway 12 High Road to Taos Going-to-the-Sun Road Historic Columbia River Highway

panoramas for close-up views in the southern section of the park, where fossilized 225-million-year-old logs are clustered beside the main park road. You can snooze in a concrete tipi in Holbrook, west of the park. Next stop is the ‘Take It Easy’ town of Winslow. Snap a photo of the famous corner then savor a spectacular dinner in the Turquoise Room (p35) at La Posada Hotel. Meteor Crater (p336), east of Flagstaff, is a mighty big hole in the ground – and a good place to slow down and catch your breath. From here, Route 66 parallels the train tracks into energetic Flagstaff, passing the wonderful Museum Club (p336), a cabin-like roadhouse where everyone’s having fun or is about to. Next up is Williams, a railroad town lined with courtyard motels and brimming with small-town charm. Seligman is a quirky little village that greets travelers with retro motels, a roadkill cafe and a squirt of fake mustard at the Snow-Cap Drive In. Burma Shave signs share funny advice on the way to Grand Canyon Caverns, where you’ll be lured 21 stories underground for a tour or possibly an overnight stay. From here, highlights include an eclectic general store in Hackberry, the Route 66 museum (p347) in

UT CO

Kingman and hay-loving burros in sunbaked Oatman. Things stay sun-baked in California as the Mother Road swoops into the Mojave Desert and passes ghost towns heralded by lonesome railroad markers. In Victorville, the Brian Burger comes with a spicy kick at Emma Jean’s Holland Burger Café (www.hollandburger.com). The vibe kicks up in stylish Pasadena before the road’s final push to the Pacific. At the Santa Monica Pier (p73), hop on the solar-powered Ferris wheel and celebrate your journey with a panoramic sunset view.

When to Go The best time to travel Route 66 is from May to September, when the weather is warm and you’ll be able to take advantage of more outdoor activities.

The Route This journey starts in Tucumcari, NM, then continues west through Arizona and California, roughly paralleling I-40 all the way to Barstow, CA. After Barstow, Route 66 south passes through San Bernardino on the I-15 before cutting west and heading

HISTORY OF ROUTE 66

into Pasadena. Follow I-110 to Santa Monica Blvd west to seaside Santa Monica.

Slip on your sunglasses, roll down the window and crank up your favorite song about the road. The highways connecting Canada and Mexico on the West Coast were made for driving, and the ridiculously scenic Pacific Coast Hwy (PCH) is the king of them all.

and moving north through hedonistic Los Angeles and offbeat San Francisco. Way up north, take a worthwhile detour to artsy and alternative-minded Seattle, Washington. If you want to bypass urban areas, it’s easy to stick to the places in between. In southern California, PCH rolls past the almost-too-perfect beaches of California’s Orange County (‘the OC’) and Santa Barbara (the ‘American Riviera’). Further north, Hwy 1 passes wacky Santa Cruz, a university town and surfers’ paradise, then redwood forests along the Big Sur coast and north of Mendocino. Hwy 1 cruises past the sand dunes, seaside resorts and fishing villages of coastal Oregon; and finally, the wild lands of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, with its primeval rainforest and bucolic San Juan Islands, served by coastal ferries.

Why Go

When to Go

Time & Mileage

Time: You might be able to do this trip in two or three days if you rush, but plan for six and enjoy the drive. Mileage: About 1250 miles, depending on segments driven.

Pacific Coast Highway

This epic West Coast journey, which rolls through California, Oregon and Washington, takes in cosmopolitan cities, surf towns and charming coastal enclaves ripe for exploration. For many travelers, the biggest draw is the magnificent scenery: wild and remote beaches, cliff-top views overlooking crashing waves, rolling hills, and lush forests thick with redwoods and eucalyptus trees. But the route is not loved only for its looks. It’s also got personality, offering beside-the-highway adventures for surfers, kayakers, scuba divers and hikers. Highlights? Let’s start with the cities. Coastal highways connect the dots between some of the West Coast’s most striking municipalities, starting with surfloving San Diego in Southern California

There’s no bad time of year to drive the route, although northern climes will be rainier and snowier during winter. Peak travel season is June through August, which isn’t always the best time as many stretches of the coast are socked in by fog during early summer (locals call it ‘June Gloom’). The shoulder seasons before Memorial Day (ie April and May) and after Labor Day (ie September and October) can be ideal, with sunny days, crisply cool nights and fewer crowds.

The Route Highways stretch nearly 1500 miles from border to border – that is, from Tijuana, Mexico, to British Columbia, Canada. In California, the coastal route

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Launched in 1926, Route 66 would ultimately stretch from Chicago to Los Angeles, linking a ribbon of small towns and country byways as it rolled across eight states. The road gained notoriety during the Great Depression, when migrant farmers followed it west from the Dust Bowl across the Great Plains. The nickname ‘The Mother Road’ first appeared in John Steinbeck’s novel about the era, The Grapes of Wrath. Things got a little more fun after WWII, when newfound prosperity prompted Americans to get behind the wheel and explore. Nat King Cole recorded ‘Get Your Kicks on Route 66’ in 1946, which added to the road’s allure. But just as things got going, the Feds rolled out the interstate system, which eventually caused the Mother Road’s demise. The very last town on Route 66 to be bypassed by an interstate was Arizona’s Williams, in 1984.

jumps between I-5, Hwy 101 and Hwy 1 (when in doubt, just hug the coast) before committing to Hwy 101 in Oregon and Washington.

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Time & Mileage

Time: No stopping? Give yourself four days because traffic and two-lane roads will slow you down; to fully enjoy the sights, allow 10 to 14 days. Mileage: About 1500 miles.

Highway 89/89A: Wickenburg to Oak Creek Canyon Hwy 89 and its sidekick Hwy 89A cross some of the most scenic and distinct regions in Arizona. The route described here travels north over the Weaver and Mingus mountains before rolling into Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon.

Why Go This is our favorite drive in Arizona. It may not be the prettiest or the wildest, but there’s a palpable sense of the Old West infusing the trip, like you’ve slipped through the swinging doors of history. But the route’s not stuck in the 19th century, far from it. Weekend art walks, a burgeoning wine trail, stylish indie-owned shops and restaurants all add some 21st-century sparkle. For those interested in cowboy history, Wickenburg and its dude ranches are a good place to spend some time. Hwy 89 leaves town via Hwy 93 and soon tackles the Weaver Mountains, climbing 2500ft in 4 miles. The road levels out at mountaintopping Yarnell, site of a devastating fire in the summer of 2013, then passes grassy buttes and grazing cattle in the Peeples Valley. From here, one highlight is Prescott’s infamous Whiskey Row, home of the historic Palace Saloon. Thumb Butte is a hard-to-miss landmark west of downtown, and you’ll pass the unusual boulders of Granite Dells on your way out of town. Follow Hwy 89A to Jerome and hold on tight. This serpentine section of road brooks no distraction, clinging tight to the side of Mingus Mountain. If you dare, glance east for stunning views of the Verde Valley. The zigzagging reaches epic propor-

tions in Jerome, a former mining town cleaved into the side of Cleopatra Hill. Pull over for art galleries, tasting rooms, quirky inns and an unusually high number of ghosts. Stand over a 1910ft-long mining shaft at Audrey Headframe Park then visit the mining museum at Jerome State Historic Park next door. Hwy 89A drops through another mining town, Clarkdale, on its way to Old Town Cottonwood. On the way to Sedona, detour to wineries on Page Springs Rd or loop into town via the Cathedral Rock, passing Red Rock Loop Rd. Sedona is made for rejuvenation, a pretty place to commune with a vortex, dine on a fine meal or shop for art and Navajo rugs. This trip ends with a cannonball into Oak Creek Canyon where the namesake creek sparkles with riparian lushness in the shadows of a towering red-rock corridor.

When to Go This route is best traveled in spring, summer and fall to avoid winter snow – although you might see a few flakes in the mountains in April! In the dead of summer, you won’t want to linger in low-lying, toasty Wickenburg.

The Route From Wickenburg, follow Hwy 93 to Hwy 89 then drive north to Prescott. North of town, pick up Hwy 89A, following it to Sedona.

Time & Mileage

Time: This route can be driven in a half-day, but we recommend two to three days for maximum enjoyment. Mileage: 134 miles.

Million Dollar Highway Stretching between Ouray and Silverton in southern Colorado is one of the most gorgeous alpine drives in the US. Part of the 236-mile San Juan Skyway, this section of US 550 is known as the Million Dollar Hwy because the road, they say, is filled with ore.

Why Go

The Route

Twenty-five miles of smooth, buttery pavement twists over three mountain passes, serving up views of Victorian homes, snowcapped peaks, mineshaft headframes and a gorge lined with rock. But the allure isn’t just the beauty part of the thrill is the driving. Hairpin turns, occasional rock slides and narrow, mountain-hugging pavement flips this route from a Sunday-afternoon drive to a NASCAR-worthy adventure. Charming Ouray sits at nearly 7800ft, surrounded by lofty peaks. It also fronts the Uncompahgre Gorge, a steep, rocky canyon famous for its ice climbing. While here, take a hike or soak in the town’s hot springs. From Ouray, the Million Dollar Hwy – completed in 1884 after three years of construction – hugs the side of the gorge, twisting past old mines that pock the mountainsides. Stay vigilant for the masochistic, spandex-clad cyclists pumping over the passes on the ribbon-thin road. In Silverton, step away from the car and enjoy the aspen-covered mountains or watch the steam-powered Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (p269) chug into town.

From Ouray, follow Hwy 550 south to Silverton.

Summer is the best time to visit. In winter, the highest pass sometimes closes and at other times you may need chains. You might even see snow on the ground in summer, though it likely won’t be on the road.

MILLION DOLLAR HIGHWAY DETOUR The drive between Ouray and Telluride is 50 miles – if you take the paved route. If you’re feeling adventurous and have a 4WD (don’t try it otherwise), consider the unpaved 16-mile road over Imogene Pass. On this old mining road you’ll cross streams, alpine meadows and one of the state’s highest passes. You’ll also pass an old mine. We should mention one thing: this ‘short cut’ takes three hours. Still game?

Time: The drive can be done in a few hours, but give yourself a day to see the sights. Mileage: 25 miles.

Beartooth Highway Depending on who’s talking, the sky-high Beartooth Hwy is either the best way to get to Yellowstone, the most exciting motorcycle ride in the West or the most scenic highway in America. Not bad choices.

Why Go Sometimes you just want to find a place so beautiful that it’ll make you pull over, leave your car, beat your chest (or shake out your hair) and yell ‘Yeah!’ In the West, that place is the Beartooth Hwy. From Red Lodge, Montana, this adventurous drive ascends Rock Creek Canyon’s glaciated valley via a series of spaghettiloop switchbacks, gaining an amazing 5000ft in elevation in just a few miles. Pull off at Rock Creek Vista Point Overlook for a short, wheelchair-accessible walk to superb views. The road continues up onto the high plateau, past ‘Mae West Curve’ and into Wyoming. Twin Lakes has views of the cirque as well as the ski lift that carries the daring to an extreme spring ski run. After a series of switchbacks, look northwest for the Hellroaring Plateau and the jagged Bears Tooth (11,612ft). The route, flanked by alpine tundra, crests at the Beartooth Pass West Summit, the highest point at 10,947ft. Fifteen-foot snowbanks may linger here as late as June (sometimes even July). After passing more lakes, the road descends past Beartooth Butte, a huge lump of the sedimentary rock that once covered the Beartooths. The highway drops to several excellent fishing areas on the Clark’s Fork, then re-enters Montana, reaching Cooke City via Colter Pass (8066ft). The northeast entrance of Yellowstone is 4 miles from Cooke City.

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When to Go

Time & Mileage

COMSTOCK IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©

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Bottom: Pacific Coast Highway (p37), California

MICHELE FALZONE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top: Apache Trail (p43), Arizona

When to Go To add some hiking to your driving, visit in August. That’s when the weather’s typically the best for outdoor adventure.

From Red Lodge, follow Hwy 212 west – crossing into and out of Wyoming – to Cooke City, MT.

Time & Mileage

Time: It’s hard to zip through the twisty Beartooth Hwy; allow at least an afternoon or morning to drive it. Mileage: 68 miles.

Highway 12

When to Go For the best weather and driving conditions – especially over 11,000ft Boulder Mountain – drive Hwy 12 between May and October.

Arguably Utah’s most diverse and stunning route, Hwy 12 winds through a remote and rugged canyon land, linking several national and state parks – and several fantastic restaurants – in the state’s red-rock center.

The Route

Why Go

Time & Mileage

With crimson canyons, sprawling deserts, thick forests and lofty peaks calling out for exploration, Hwy 12 in remote southern Utah works well for adventurous explorers. The trip kicks off at Bryce Canyon National Park where the eye-catching gold-andcrimson spires set the stage for the colorinfused journey to come. Traveling east, the first highlight is Kodachrome Basin State Park (http:// stateparks.utah.gov/parks/kodachromebasin), home to petrified geysers and dozens of red, pink and white sandstone chimneys – some nearly 170ft tall. Pass through tiny Escalante and then, 8 miles down the road, pull over for the view at Head of the Rocks Overlook, atop the Aquarius Plateau. From here you’ll lord over giant mesas, towering domes, deep canyons and undulating slickrock, all unfurling in an explosion of color. The adjacent Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (p369) is the largest park in the Southwest at nearly 1.9 million acres. The Lower Calf Creek Recreation Area, inside the park and beside Hwy 12, holds a picnic area and a pleasant campground. It’s also the start of a popular

From US Hwy 89 in Utah, follow Hwy 12 east to Bryce Canyon National Park. The road takes a northerly turn at Kodachrome Basin State Park then continues to Torrey.

Time: Although the route could be driven in a few hours, two to three days will allow for a bit of exploration. Mileage: 124 miles.

High Road to Taos This picturesque byway (www.newmexico. org/high-road-to-taos-trail) in northern New Mexico links Santa Fe to Taos, rippling through a series of adobe villages and mountain-flanked vistas in and around the Truchas Peaks.

Why Go Santa Fe and Taos are well-known artists’ communities, lovely places brimming with galleries, studios and museums. Two cities this stunning should be linked by an aesthetically pleasing byway, and the mountainous High Road to Taos obliges. From Santa Fe follow Hwy 84/285 north. Exit onto Hwy 503 toward Nambe, where you can hike to waterfalls or simply meditate by the namesake lake. From here, the road leads north to picturesque

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The Route

6-mile round-trip hike to the impressive 126ft Lower Calf Creek Falls. The razor-thin Hogback Ridge, between Escalante and Boulder, is pretty stunning, too. The best section of the drive? Many consider it to be the switchbacks and petrified sand dunes between Boulder and Torrey. But it’s not just about the views. In Boulder, treat your taste buds to a locally sourced meal at Hell’s Backbone Grill (p368), followed by homemade pie at the Burr Trail Grill & Outpost, or enjoy a flavor-packed Southwestern dish at Cafe Diablo (p368) further north in Torrey.

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Chimayo. Abandoned crutches line the wall in El Santuario de Chimayo (p385), also known as ‘The Lourdes of America.’ In 1816 this two-towered adobe chapel was built over a spot said to have miraculous healing powers. Take some time to wander through the community, and admire the fine weaving and woodcarving in familyrun galleries. Near Truchas, a village of galleries and century-old adobes, you’ll find the High Road Marketplace (www.highroadmarket place.com). This cooperative on SR 676 sells a variety of artworks by area artists. Original paintings and carvings remain in good condition up Hwy 76 inside the Church of San José de Gracia (www.nps. gov/nr/travel/amsw/sw43.htm), considered one of the finest surviving 18th-century churches in the USA. Next is Picuris Pueblo (www.picurispueblo.org), once one of the most powerful pueblos in the region. This ride ends at Penasco, a gateway to the Pecos Wilderness, which is also home to the engagingly experimental Penasco Theatre (www.penascotheatre.org). From here, follow Hwys 75 and 518 into Taos.

When to Go The high season is summer, but spring can be a nice time to see blooming flowers. Fall presents a show of colorful leaves. With mountains on the route, winter is not the best time to visit.

The Route From Santa Fe, take 84/285 west to Pojoaque and turn right on Hwy 503, toward Nambe. From Hwy 503, take Hwy 76 to Hwy 75, then drive into Taos on Hwy 518.

Time & Mileage

Time: Without stopping, this drive should take about a half day, but give yourself a full day if you want to shop and explore. Mileage: 85 miles.

Going-to-the-Sun Road A strong contender for the most spectacular drive in America, the 53-mile Going-to-the-Sun Road is the only paved road through Glacier National Park in Montana.

Why Go Glaciers! Grizzlies! Yep, the Going-to-theSun Road (p293) inspires superlatives and exclamation points. But the accolades are deserved. The road, completed in 1933, crosses a ruggedly beautiful alpine landscape, twisting and turning over a lofty Continental Divide that’s usually blanketed in snow. From the park’s west entrance, the road skirts the shimmering Lake McDonald. Ahead, the looming Garden Wall forms the 9000ft spine of the Continental Divide and separates the west side of the park from the east side. The road crosses the divide at Logan Pass (6880ft). From here, the 7.6-mile Highline Trail (one way) traces the park’s mountainous backbone, with views of glaciated valleys, sawtooth peaks, wildflowers and wildlife. And the wildlife you might see? Mountain goats. Bighorn sheep. Moose. Maybe even a grizzly bear or an elusive wolverine. After Logan Pass, the road passes Jackson Glacier Overlook, where you can bear witness to one of the park’s melting monoliths. Experts say that at current global temperatures, all of the park’s glaciers will be gone by 2030, so now is the time to visit.

When to Go This snow-attracting route opens late and closes early, and is typically drivable between mid-June and mid-September. In 2011, due to an unusually heavy snowpack, the road didn’t completely open until July 13.

GOING-TO-THE-SUN ROAD: A LEGEND AND A LANDMARK Going-to-the-Sun Road was named after Going-to-the-Sun Mountain. According to legend – or a story concocted in the 1880s – a deity of the Blackfeet Tribe once taught tribal members to hunt. After the lesson, he left an image of himself on the mountain as inspiration before he ascended to the sun. Today, the road is a National Historic Landmark and a National Civil Engineering Landmark, the only road in the country to hold both designations.

MORE SCENIC DRIVES

Apache Trail, AZ This isn’t your grandmother’s Sunday-afternoon drive – unless your grandmother likes 45 miles of rabid road. From Apache Junction east of Phoenix, follow Hwy 88 past a kid-friendly ghost town, the wildflowers of Lost Dutchman State Park and three Salt River lakes. In the middle of it all? A snarling dirt section that drops 1000-plus feet in less than 3 miles. Hold tight! The Loneliest Road Hwy 50 slices across the white-hot belly of Nevada, stretching from Fallon east to Great Basin National Park and the Utah state line. This remote highway unfurls past a singing sand dune, Pony Express stations and mining towns. A burger at Middlegate Station is a tasty pit stop. Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway, CA From Topaz Lake, follow Hwy 395 south along the eastern flank of the mighty Sierra Nevada, ending at Little Lake. The region holds 14,000ft peaks, ice-blue lakes, pine forests, desert basins and hot springs.

The Route From the west entrance of Glacier National Park, follow the Going-to-the-Sun Road east to St Mary.

Time & Mileage

Time: It varies depending on conditions, but plan to spend at least a half-day on the drive. Mileage: 53 miles.

Historic Columbia River Highway Lush foliage and trailblazing history are highlights on US 30, a carefully planned byway that ribbons alongside the Columbia River Gorge east of Portland, Oregon.

Why Go Just how many waterfalls can one scenic highway hold? Quite a few if that road is the Historic Columbia River Hwy. The original route – completed in 1922 – connected Portland to The Dalles. The first paved road in the Pacific Northwest, it was carefully planned, built with the pleasure of driving in mind rather than speed. Viewpoints were carefully selected, and stone walls and arching bridges stylishly complement the gorgeous scenery. Also notable is the history. Lewis and Clark traveled this route as they pushed

toward the Pacific Ocean in 1805. Fifty years later, Oregon Trail pioneers ended their cross-country trek with a harrowing final push through the gorge’s treacherous waters. Today, although sections of the original byway have been closed, or replaced by US 84, much of US 30 is still open for driving and some closed portions can be traversed by hiking or cycling. One roadside highlight is the Portland Women’s Forum Park, which provides one of the best views of the gorge. Just east, the 1916 Vista House, honoring the Oregon Trail pioneers, holds a visitor center. It’s perched on Crown Point, a good viewpoint. And don’t miss Multnomah Falls, Oregon’s tallest waterfall at 642ft.

When to Go Waterfalls are at their peak February to May, while summer is great for hiking.

The Route To reach the historic highway, take exit 17, 28 or 35 off I-84 east of Portland. The western section of the original highway ends at Multnomah Falls. From here hop onto I-84 and continue east to exit 69 at Mosier where you can return to Hwy 30.

Time & Mileage Time: One day.

Mileage: 100 miles.

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Hungry for more road trips? Here are a few more good ones. Turquoise Trail, NM This back route between Tijeras, near Albuquerque, and Santa Fe was a major trade route for several thousand years. Today it rolls past art galleries, shops (with turquoise jewelry) and a mining museum. From I-40, follow Hwy 14 north to I-25. Also see www.turquoisetrail.org.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Plan Your Trip

Western USA Outdoors

Whether you’re a newbie hiker, a weekend warrior or an ironman (or maiden), the West has an outdoor activity for you. The best part? A stunning landscape as your backdrop. Scan for hummingbirds, paddle rapids, bounce over slickrock trails, swoosh down powdery slopes, surf curling waves or hike into the world’s most famous canyon.

Best Outdoors

Ultimate Outdoor Experiences Rafting the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, AZ Hiking to the summit of Half Dome, Yosemite National Park, CA Cycling in Maroon Bells, Aspen, CO Rock climbing in Joshua Tree National Park, CA Scrambling to Angels Landing, Zion National Park, UT Skiing in Vail, CO Kayaking the San Juan Islands, WA Glacier spotting in Glacier National Park, MT

Best Wildlife Watching Bears: Glacier National Park, MT Elk, bison and gray wolves: Yellowstone National Park, WY Birds: Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve, AZ Whales and dolphins: Monterey Bay, CA

Camping Campers are absolutely spoiled for choice in the West. Pitch a tent beside alpine lakes and streams in Colorado, sleep under saguaro cacti in southern Arizona or snooze on gorgeous strands of California sand.

Campground Types & Amenities

Primitive campsites Usually have fire pits, picnic tables and access to drinking water and vault toilets; most common in national forests (USFS) and on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land. Developed campgrounds Typically found in state and national parks, with more amenities, including flush toilets, barbecue grills and occasionally hot showers and a coin-op laundry. RV (recreational vehicle) hookups and dump stations Available at many privately owned campgrounds, but only a few public-lands campgrounds. Private campgrounds Cater mainly to RVers and offer hot showers, swimming pools, wi-fi and family camping cabins; tent sites may be few and uninviting. Walk-in (environmental) sites Providing more peace and privacy; a few public-lands campgrounds reserve these for long-distance hikers and cyclists.

WESTERN US NATIONAL PARKS FEATURES

ACTIVITIES

Arches (p365)

more than 2000 sandstone arches

scenic drives, day hikes spring-fall

Bryce Canyon (p369)

brilliantly colored, eroded hoodoos

day & backcountry hikes, horseback riding

Canyonlands (p366)

epic Southwestern canyons, mesas, scenic viewpoints, and buttes backcountry hikes, white-water rafting

spring-fall

Carlsbad Caverns (p396)

extensive underground cave system; free-tail bat colony

cave tours, backcountry hikes

spring-fall

Death Valley (p106)

hot, dramatic desert & unique ecology

scenic drives, day hikes spring

Glacier (p293)

impressive glaciated landscape; mountain goats

day & backcountry hikes, scenic drives

summer

Grand Canyon (p337)

spectacular 277-mile-long, 1-mile-deep river canyon

day & backcountry hikes, mule trips, river running

spring-fall

Grand Teton (p284)

towering granite peaks; moose, bison, wolves

day & backcountry hikes, rock climbing, fishing

spring-fall

Mesa Verde (p267)

preserved Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings, historic sites, mesas and canyons

short hikes

spring-fall

Olympic (p192)

temperate rainforests, alpine meadows, Mt Olympus

day & backcountry hikes

spring-fall

Petrified Forest (p347)

fossilized trees, petroglyphs, Painted Desert scenery

day hikes

spring-fall

Redwood (p155)

virgin redwood forest, world’s tallest trees; elk

day & backcountry hikes

spring-fall

Rocky Mountain (p249)

stunning peaks, alpine tundra, the Continental Divide; elk, bighorn sheep, moose, beavers

day & backcountry hikes, cross-country skiing

summer-fall

Saguaro (p351)

giant saguaro cactus, desert scenery

day & backcountry hikes

spring-fall

Sequoia & Kings Canyon (p167)

sequoia redwood groves, granite canyon

day & backcountry hikes, cross-country skiing

summer-fall

Yellowstone (p277)

geysers & geothermal pools, impressive canyon; prolific wildlife

day & backcountry hikes, cycling, crosscountry skiing

year-round

Yosemite (p163)

sheer granite-walled valley, waterfalls, alpine meadows

day & backcountry hikes, rock climbing, skiing

year-round

Zion (p370)

immense red-rock canyon, Virgin River

day & backcountry hikes, canyoneering

spring-fall

Rates & Reservations Many public and private campgrounds accept reservations for all or some of their sites, while a few are strictly first-come,

BEST TIME

spring-fall

first-served. Overnight rates range from free for the most primitive campsites to $50 or more for pull-through RV sites with full hookups.

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PARK

A & C WILEY / WALES / GETTY IMAGES ©

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Bottom: Angels Landing Trail, Zion National Park (p370)

DAVE STAMBOULIS TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top: White-water rafting (p49), Colorado River

These agencies let you search for campground locations and amenities; check availability and reserve campsites online:

ReserveAmerica (www.reserveamerica.com) Reservations for state parks, regional parks and some private campgrounds across North America. See website for phone numbers by state. Kampgrounds of America (KOA; www.koa.com) Chain of reliable but more expensive private campgrounds with full facilities, including for RVs.

Hiking Resources

Wilderness Survival, by Gregory Davenport, is easily the best book on surviving nearly every contingency. Useful websites:

Hiking & Trekking

American Hiking Society (www.americanhiking. org) Links to local hiking clubs and ‘volunteer vacations’ building trails.

Good hiking trails are abundant in the West. Fitness is a priority throughout the region, and most metropolitan areas

Backpacker (www.backpacker.com) Premier national magazine for backpackers, from novices to experts.

TOP TRAILS IN THE WEST Ask 10 people for their top trail recommendations throughout the West and no two answers will be alike. The country is so varied and distances so enormous, there’s little consensus. That said, you can’t go wrong with the following all-star sampler.

South Kaibab/North Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon, AZ (p340) A multiday crosscanyon tramp down to the Colorado River and back up to the rim. Longs Peak Trail, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO (p249) This very popular 15-mile round-trip hike leads to the bouldery summit of Longs Peak (14,259ft) and its views of snow-capped summits. Angels Landing, Zion National Park, UT (p370) After a heart-pounding scramble over a narrow, precipice-flanked strip of rock, the reward is a sweeping view of Zion Canyon. It’s a 5.4-mile round-trip hike.

Mt Washburn Trail, Yellowstone National Park, WY (p281) From Dunraven Pass, this wildflower-lined trail climbs 3 miles to expansive views from the summit of Mt Washburn (10,243ft). Look for bighorn sheep. Pacific Crest Trail (PCT; www.pcta.org) Follows the spines of the Cascades and Sierra Nevada, traipsing 2650 miles from Canada to Mexico, passing through six of North America’s seven ecozones. Half Dome, Yosemite National Park, CA (p163) Strenuous, but the Yosemite Valley views and sense of accomplishment are worth it. Park permit required. Enchanted Valley Trail, Olympic National Park, WA (p192) Mountain views, roaming wildlife and lush rainforests – all on a 13-mile out-and-back trail. Great Northern Traverse, Glacier National Park, MT (p293) A 58-mile haul that cuts through grizzly country and crosses the Continental Divide. The Big Loop, Chiricahua National Monument, AZ (p353) A 9.5-mile hike along several trails that wind past an ‘army’ of wondrous rock pillars in southeastern Arizona once used as a hideout by Apache warriors. Tahoe Rim Trail, Lake Tahoe, CA (p171) This 165-mile all-purpose trail circumnavigates the lake from high above, affording glistening Sierra views.

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Recreation.gov (www.recreation.gov) Camping and cabin reservations for national parks, national forests, BLM land etc.

have at least one large park with trails. National parks and monuments are ideal for both short and long hikes. If you’re hankering for nights in the wilderness beneath star-filled skies, however, plan on securing a backcountry permit in advance, especially in places like the Grand Canyon – spaces are limited, particularly during summer.

48 Rails-to-Trails Conservancy (www.railstotrails. org) Converts abandoned railroad corridors into hiking and biking trails; publishes free trail reviews at www.traillink.com.

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Survive Outdoors (www.surviveoutdoors.com) Dispenses safety and first-aid tips, plus helpful photos of dangerous critters.

Fees & Wilderness Permits ¨¨State parks typically charge a daily entrance fee of $5 to $15; there’s often a reduced fee, or no charge, if you walk or bike into these parks. ¨¨National park entry averages $10 to $25 per vehicle for seven consecutive days; some national parks are free. Check the national park website for dates for Free Entrance Days (www. nps.gov/findapark/feefreeparks.htm). ¨¨For unlimited admission to national parks, national forests and other federal recreation lands for one year, buy an ‘America the Beautiful’ pass ($80). ¨¨Often required for overnight backpackers and extended day hikes, wilderness permits are issued at ranger stations and park visitor

centers. Daily quotas may be in effect during peak periods, usually late spring through early fall. ¨¨Some wilderness permits may be reserved ahead of time, and very popular trails (eg Half Dome, Mt Whitney) may sell out several months in advance. ¨¨To hike in the forest surrounding Sedona, AZ, you’ll need to buy a Red Rock Pass ($5 per day, $15 per week). Passes can be purchased at USFS ranger stations, kiosks (at some trailheads) and the Sedona Chamber of Commerce (p334). National Park interagency passes are accepted in lieu of the Red Rock Pass.

Cycling The popularity of cycling is growing by the day in the USA, with cities adding more cycle lanes and becoming more bike-friendly. An increasing number of greenways traverse urban areas and the countryside. You’ll find diehard enthusiasts in every town, and numerous outfitters offer guided trips for all levels and durations.

MAD FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING Mountain-biking enthusiasts will find trail nirvana in Crested Butte, CO, Moab, UT, Bend, OR, Ketchum, ID and Marin, CA, the latter being where Gary Fisher and Co bunny-hopped the sport forward by careening down the rocky flanks of Mt Tamalpais on home-rigged bikes. For info about trails and gear, check out Bicycling magazine (www.bicycling.com/mountain-bike) or IMBA (www.imba.com/destinations). Great destinations include the following: Kokopelli’s Trail, UT (www.blm.gov) One of the premier mountain-biking trails in the Southwest stretches 142 miles on mountainous terrain between Loma, CO, and Moab, UT. Other nearby options include the 206-mile, hut-to-hut ride between Telluride, CO, and Moab, UT, and the shorter but very challenging 38-mile ride from Aspen to Crested Butte – an equally stunning route. Sun Top Loop, WA (www.visitrainier.com) A 22-mile ride with challenging climbs and superb views of Mt Rainier and surrounding peaks on the western slopes of Washington’s Cascade Mountains. Downieville Downhill, Downieville, CA (www.sierracountychamber.com) Not for the faint of heart, this piney trail, located near its namesake Sierra foothill town in Tahoe National Forest, skirts river-hugging cliffs, passes through old-growth forest and drops 4200ft in under 14 miles. McKenzie River Trail, Willamette National Forest, OR (www.fs.usda.gov/activity/ willamette/recreation) Twenty-five miles of blissful single-track winding through deep forests and volcanic formations. The town of McKenzie is about 50 miles east of Eugene. Porcupine Rim, Moab, UT (www.blm.gov/ut) A 30-mile loop from town, this venerable high-desert romp features stunning views and hairy downhills. It’s a difficult trail. Be prepared and bring lots of water.

www.ebook3000.com

Top Cycling Towns San Francisco, CA A pedal over the Golden Gate Bridge lands you in the stunningly beautiful, and stunningly hilly, Marin Headlands. Boulder, CO Outdoors-loving town with loads of great biking paths, including the 16-mile Boulder Creek Trail. Portland, OR A trove of great cycling (on- and off-road) in the Pacific Northwest.

Surfing The best surf in the continental USA breaks off the coast of California. There are loads of options – from the funky and low-key Santa Cruz (p117) to San Francisco’s Ocean Beach (p130) – a tough spot to learn! – or bohemian Bolinas, 30 miles north. South, you’ll find strong swells and Santa Ana winds in San Diego (p96), La Jolla (p95), Malibu (p73) and Santa Barbara (p108, all of which sport warmer waters, fewer sharks of the great white variety and a saucy SoCal beach scene; the best conditions are from September to November. Along the coast of Oregon and Washington are miles of crowd-free beaches and pockets of surfing communities.

Top California Surf Spots Huntington Beach (aka Surf City, USA) is the quintessential surf capital, with perpetual sun and a ‘perfect’ break,

particularly during winter when the winds are calm. Huntington Beach, Orange County (p88) Surfer central is a great place to take in the scene – and some lessons. Oceanside Beach, Oceanside One of SoCal’s prettiest beaches boasts one of the world’s most consistent surf breaks in summer. It’s a familyfriendly spot. Rincon, Santa Barbara Arguably one of the planet’s top surfing spots; nearly every major surf champion on the globe has taken Rincon for a ride. Steamer Lane and Pleasure Point, Santa Cruz There are 11 world-class breaks, including the point breaks over rock bottoms, at these two sweet spots. Swami’s, Encinitas Located below Seacliff Roadside Park, this popular surfing beach has multiple breaks guaranteeing you some fantastic waves.

Surfing Resources Surfline (www.surfline.com) Browse the comprehensive atlas, live webcams and surf reports for the lowdown from San Diego to Maverick’s. Surfer (www.surfermag.com) Orange County– based magazine website with travel reports, gear reviews, newsy blogs and videos. Surfrider (www.surfrider.org) Enlightened surfers can join up with this nonprofit organization that aims to protect the coastal environment.

White-Water Rafting There’s no shortage of scenic and spectacular rafting in the West. In California, both the Tuolumne and American Rivers surge with moderate-to-extreme rapids, while in Idaho the Middle Fork of the Salmon River (p299) has it all: abundant wildlife, thrilling rapids, a rich history, waterfalls and hot springs. The North Fork of the Owyhee – which snakes from the high plateau of southwest Oregon to the rangelands of Idaho – is rightfully popular and features towering hoodoos. North of Moab, UT, look for wildlife on an easy float on the Colorado River (p342) or ramp it up several notches with a thrilling romp through class V rapids and the

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Many states offer social multiday rides, such as Ride the Rockies (www. ridetherockies.com) in Colorado. For a fee, you can join the peloton on a scenic, wellsupported route; your gear is ferried ahead to that night’s camping spot. In Colorado, Aspen’s Maroon Bells is a top cycling spot. Another standout ride is Arizona’s Mt Lemmon (www.fs.usda.gov/ main/coronado), a thigh-zinging, 28-mile climb from the Sonoran Desert floor to the 9157ft summit. You can also rent bikes on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon at Grand Canyon National Park (p337). Ride to Hermit’s Rest on the park’s Hermit Rd and the ever-lengthening Greenway Trail (www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/ bicycling.htm).

WHALE-WATCHING

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Gray and humpback whales have the longest migrations of any mammal in the world – more than 5000 miles from the Arctic to Mexico, and back again. In the Pacific Northwest, most pass through from November to February (southbound) and March to June (northbound). Gray whales can be spotted off the California coast from December to April, while blue, humpback and sperm whales pass by in summer and fall. Bring binoculars! Top spots include: Depoe Bay and Newport, OR (p227) Good whale-watching; tour boats. Long Beach and Westport, WA (p74) Scan from shore. Puget Sound and San Juan Islands, WA (p196) Resident pods of orca. Klamath River Overlook, CA (p162) Watch for whales from bluffs. Point Reyes Lighthouse, CA (p145) Gray whales pass by in December and January. Monterey, CA (p116) Whales can be spotted year-round. Channel Islands National Park, CA (p109) Take a cruise or peer through the tele scope on the visitor center tower. Point Loma, CA Cabrillo National Monument (p95) The best place in San Diego to watch gray-whale migration from January to March.

red rocks of Canyonlands National Park (p366). To book a spot on the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon (p342), the quintessential river trip, make reservations at least a year in advance. And if you’re not after white-knuckle rapids, fret not – many rivers have sections suitable for peaceful float trips or innertube drifts that you can enjoy with a cold beer in hand.

schedule and wind conditions of your proposed route. White-water kayaking is also popular in the Pacific Northwest, where water tumbles down from the ice-capped volcanoes. Look for bald eagles on the Upper Sgakit River or slip through remote wilderness canyons on the Klickitat River. Close to Portland, try the Clackamas and the North Santiam. For urban whitewater kayaking, you can’t beat Colorado. Look for white-water parks in Boulder (p245) and Denver (p235).

Kayaking & Canoeing

Kayaking & Canoeing Resources

For exploring flatwater (no rapids or surf), opt for a kayak or canoe. For big lakes and the sea coast use a sea kayak. Be aware that kayaks are not always suitable for carrying bulky gear. For scenic sea kayaking, you can push into the surf just about anywhere off the California coast. Popular spots include La Jolla (p95) as well as the coastal state parks just north of Santa Barbara (p107). In the Pacific Northwest, you can enjoy world-class kayaking in and around the San Juan Islands (p196), the Olympic Peninsula (p192) and Puget Sound. There’s a full-moon paddle in Sausalito’s Richardson Bay, CA. Sea-kayak rentals average $32 to $40 for two hours. Reputable outfitters will make sure you’re aware of the tide

American Canoe Association (www.americancanoe.org) Organization supporting and providing information about canoeing and kayaking. American Whitewater (www.americanwhitewater.org) Advocacy group for responsible recreation works to preserve America’s wild rivers. Canoe & Kayak (www.canoekayak.com) Specialinterest magazine for paddlers. Kayak Online (www.kayakonline.com) Advice for buying gear and helpful links to kayaking manufacturers, schools and associations.

Skiing & Other Winter Sports

Top Ski Resorts ¨¨For snow, altitude and attitude: Vail, CO (p255); Squaw Valley, CA (p172); Aspen, CO (p257).

Ski & Snowboard Resources Cross-Country Ski Areas Association (www. xcski.org) Comprehensive information and gear guides for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing across North America. Cross Country Skier (www.crosscountry skier.com) Magazine with Nordic-skiing news stories and destination articles. Powder (www.powdermag.com) Online version of Powder magazine for skiers.

¨¨For an unfussy scene and steep vertical chutes: Alta, UT (p360); Telluride, CO (p265); Jackson, WY (p275); Taos, NM (p388).

Ski Resorts Guide (www.skiresortsguide.com) Comprehensive guide to resorts, with lodging info and more.

Snowboarding

SkiNet (www.skinet.com) Online versions of Ski and Skiing magazines.

On powdered slopes across the USA, snowboarding has become as popular as downhill skiing – all thanks to snow-surfing pioneer Jake Burton Carpenter, who set up a workshop in his Vermont garage and began to build snowboards in the mid-1970s. Snowboarders flock almost everywhere out West, including Sun Valley (p298), Tahoe (p171) and Taos (p388). For a fix during the summer months, head to Oregon’s Mt Hood area (p220), where several resorts offer snowboard camps.

Cross-Country Skiing & Snowshoeing Most downhill ski resorts have crosscountry (Nordic) ski trails. In winter,

SnoCountry Mountain Reports (www.snocountry.com) Snow reports for North America, as well as events, news and resort links.

Rock Climbing & Canyoneering In California, rock hounds test their mettle on the big walls, granite domes and boulders of world-class Yosemite National Park (p165), where the climbing season lasts from April to October. Climbers also flock to Joshua Tree National Park (p103), an otherworldly shrine in southern California’s sun-scorched desert. There, amid

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There are ski resorts in every western state, including Arizona. Colorado has some of the best skiing in the region, although California and Utah are both top-notch destinations for the alpine experience. The ski season typically runs from mid-December to April, though some resorts have longer seasons. In summer, many resorts offer mountain biking and hiking courtesy of chair lifts. Ski packages (including airfares, hotels and lift tickets) are easy to find through resorts, travel agencies and online travel booking sites; these packages can be a good deal if your main goal is to ski. Wherever you ski, it won’t come cheap. Find the best deals by going midweek, purchasing multiday tickets, heading to lesser-known ‘sibling’ resorts, like Alpine Meadows (www.squawalpine.com) near Lake Tahoe, or checking out mountains that cater to locals including Santa Fe Ski Area (www.skisantafe.com) and Colorado’s Wolf Creek (www.wolfcreekski.com).

popular areas of national parks, national forests and city parks often have crosscountry ski and snowshoe trails, and iceskating rinks. You’ll find superb trail networks for Nordic skiers and snowshoers in California’s Royal Gorge (p172), North America’s largest Nordic ski area, and Washington’s sublime and crowd-free Methow Valley (p200). Backcountry passionistas will be happily rewarded throughout the Sierra Nevada (p163), with its many ski-in huts. There are 60 miles of trails around five ski-in huts in the San Juan Mountains (www.sanjuanhuts.com) in Colorado; the 10th Mountain Division Association (www.huts.org) manages more than twodozen huts in the Rockies. The South Rim of the Grand Canyon (p337) and the surrounding Kaibab National Forest (p339) are pretty spots for wintery exploring.

AND LET’S NOT FORGET…

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ACTIVITY

WHERE?

WHAT?

MORE INFORMATION

Horseback riding

Southern Arizona dude ranches, AZ

Old West country (most ranches close in summer due to the heat)

www.azdra.com

Grand Canyon South Rim, AZ

Low-key trips through Kaibab National Forest; campfire rides

www.apachestables. com

Santa Fe, NM

Kids’ rides; sunset rides

www.bishopslodge. com

Telluride, CO

All-season rides in the hills

www.ridewithroudy. com

Durango, CO

Day rides and overnight camping in Weminiuche Wilderness

www.vallecitolakeout fitter.com

Yosemite National Park, CA

Rides in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows and near Wawona

www.yosemitepark. com

Florence, OR

Romantic beach rides

www.oregonhorse backriding.com

Blue Hole near Santa Rosa, NM

81ft-deep artesian well; blue water leads into a 131ft-long submerged cavern

www.santarosanm.org

La Jolla Underwater Park, CA

Beginner friendly; snorkelers enjoy nearby La Jolla Cove

www.sandiego.gov/ lifeguards/beaches

Channel Islands National Park, CA

Kelp forests, sea caves off coastal islands

www.nps.gov/chis

Point Lobos State Reserve, CA

Fantastic shore diving; shallow reefs, caves, sea lions, seals, otters

www.pointlobos.org

Puget Sound, WA

Clear water, diverse marine life (including giant octopus!)

www.underwater sports.com

Float above red-rock country; picnic with bubbly

www.northernlight balloon.com

Colorful balloons float over vineyards

www.balloonrides. com; www.napa valleyballoons.com

Diving

Hot-air ballooning Sedona, AZ Napa Wine Country, CA

craggy monoliths and the country’s oldest trees, they make their pilgrimage on 8000 routes, tackling sheer vertical, sharp edges and bountiful cracks. For beginners, outdoor outfitters at both parks offer guided climbs and instruction. In Zion National Park (p370) in Utah, multiday canyoneering classes teach the

fine art of going down: rappelling off sheer sandstone cliffs into glorious red-rock canyons filled with trees. Some of the sportier pitches are made in dry suits, down the flanks of roaring waterfalls into ice-cold pools. For ice climbing, try Ouray Ice Park (p263) in Ouray, off the Million Dollar

Highway in southwest Colorado. Inside a narrow slot canyon, 200ft walls and waterfalls are frozen in thick sheets. Other great climbing spots:

City of Rocks National Reserve, ID (p393) More than 500 routes up wind-scoured granite and pinnacles 60 stories tall. Bishop, CA (p169) This sleepy town in the Eastern Sierra is the gateway to excellent climbing in the nearby Owens River Gorge and Buttermilk Hills. Red Rock Canyon, NV (p317) Ten miles west of Las Vegas is some of the world’s finest sandstone climbing.

Flatirons, CO (p246) Also near Boulder, has fine multipitch ascents.

Climbing & Canyoneering Resources American Canyoneering Association (www. canyoneering.net) An online canyons database with links to courses, local climbing groups and more. Climbing (www.climbing.com) Cutting-edge rockclimbing news and information since 1970. SuperTopo (www.supertopo.com) One-stop shop for rock-climbing guidebooks, downloadable topo maps and route descriptions.

PL A N YO U R TRI P W estern U S A O utdoors

Grand Teton National Park, WY (p284) Good for climbers of all levels: beginners can take basic climbing courses and the more experienced can join two-day expeditions up to the top of Grand Teton itself; a 13,770ft peak with majestic views.

Rocky Mountain National Park, CO (p249) Offers alpine climbing near Boulder.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Plan Your Trip

Travel with Children

The West is a top choice for adventure-loving families, with superb attractions for all ages: amusement parks, zoos, science museums, unique campsites, hikes in wilderness reserves, boogie-board surfing at the beach and bike rides through scenic forests. Most national and state parks offer kid-focused programs (junior ranger activities and the like).

Best Regions for Kids Grand Canyon & Southern Arizona

Hike into the Grand Canyon, splash in Oak Creek and ponder the saguaro cacti outside Tucson. Water parks, dude ranches and ghost towns should also keep kids entertained.

Los Angeles & Southern California See celebrity handprints in Hollywood, ogle the La Brea tar pits, take a studio tour in Burbank and hit the beach in Santa Monica. Orange County and San Diego have theme parks galore.

Colorado The whole state is kid-friendly: museums in Denver, outdoor fun in the Rockies, rafting near Buena Vista and Salida, and ski resorts everywhere.

Western USA for Kids To find family-oriented sights and activities, accommodations, restaurants and entertainment in our coverage, just look for the child-friendly icon (c).

Dining with Children The US restaurant industry seems built on family-style service: children are not just accepted almost everywhere, they are usually encouraged by special children’s menus with smaller portions and lower prices. In some restaurants children under a certain age even eat for free. Restaurants usually provide high chairs and booster seats. Some may also offer children crayons and puzzles. Restaurants without children’s menus don’t necessarily discourage kids, though higher-end restaurants might; however, even at the nicer places, if you arrive early, you can usually eat without too much stress. You can ask if the kitchen will make a smaller order of a dish (check price), or if they will split a normal-size main dish between two plates for the kids.

Accommodations Motels and hotels typically have rooms with two beds, which are ideal for families.

Babysitting

from under 12 to under 16 years. Some sights also have discount rates for families. Most attractions give free admission to children under two years.

Children’s Highlights Outdoor Adventure

Yellowstone National Park Watch powerful geysers, spy on wildlife and take magnificent hikes. (p277)

Resort hotels may have on-call babysitting services; otherwise, ask the front-desk staff or concierge to help you make arrangements. Always ask if babysitters are licensed and bonded, what they charge per hour per child, whether there’s a minimum fee, and if they charge extra for transportation or meals. Most tourist bureaus list local resources for child care, plus recreation facilities, medical services and so on.

Grand Canyon National Park Gaze across one of the earth’s great wonders, followed by a hike, a ranger talk and biking. (p337)

Discounts for Children

Disneyland It’s the attention to detail that amazes most at Mickey Mouse’s enchantingly imagined Disneyland, in the middle of Orange County, California. (p86)

Child concessions often apply for tours, admission fees and transport, with some discounts as high as 50% off the adult rate. However, the definition of ‘child’ can vary

ON THE ROAD & IN THE AIR ¨¨ Many public toilets have a babychanging table (sometimes in men’s toilets, too), and gender-neutral ‘family’ facilities appear in airports. ¨¨ Car-rental agencies should be able to provide an appropriate child seat, since these are required in every state, but you need to request it when booking and expect to pay around $13 more per day. ¨¨ Domestic airlines don’t charge for children under two years. Those two or over must have a seat, and discounts are unlikely. Very rarely, some resort areas (like Disneyland) offer a ‘kids fly free’ promotion. Currently, children from two to 12 years enjoy 50% off the lowest Amtrak rail fare when they travel alongside a fare-paying adult.

Olympic National Park Explore the wild and pristine wilderness of one of the world’s few temperate rainforests. (p192) Oak Creek Canyon Swoosh over red rocks at Slide Rock State Park in Arizona. (p331)

Theme Parks

Legoland Younger kids will get a kick out of the Lego-built statues and low-key rides scattered across this amusement park in Carlsbad, CA. (p100) Universal Studios Hollywood movie-themed action rides, special-effects shows and a studio back-lot tram tour in Los Angeles. (p72)

Aquariums & Zoos Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum Coyotes, cacti and docent demonstrations are highlights at this indoor/outdoor repository of flora and fauna in Tucson. (p348) Monterey Bay Aquarium Observe denizens of the deep next door to the California central coast’s biggest marine sanctuary. (p115) Aquarium of the Pacific High-tech aquarium at Long Beach houses critters from balmy Baja California to the chilly north Pacific, plus a shark lagoon. (p75) San Diego Zoo This sprawling zoo is home to creatures great and small, with more than 3700 animals. (p93)

PL A N YO U R TRI P T ravel with C hildre n

Some also have roll-away beds or cribs that can be brought into the room for an extra charge (these are usually portable cribs, which may not work for all children). Many hotels have adjoining doors between rooms. Some offer ‘kids stay free’ programs, for children up to 12 or sometimes 18 years old. Many B&Bs don’t allow children; ask when reserving. Most resorts are kid friendly and many offer children’s programs, but ask when booking, as a few cater only to adults.

PL A N YO U R TRI P T ravel with C hildre n

Rainy-Day Activities

What to Pack

LA Museums See stars (the real ones) at LA’s Griffith Observatory (p71), dinosaur bones at the Natural History Museum of LA (p69) and the Page Museum (p72) at the La Brea Tar Pits, then get hands-on at the amusing California Science Center (p70).

¨¨Bring lots of sunscreen, especially if you’ll be spending a lot of time outside.

SF Museums San Francisco’s Bay Area is a mindbending classroom for kids, especially at the interactive Exploratorium (p120) S and eco-friendly California Academy of Science (p131).

¨¨For hiking, you’ll need a front baby carrier (for children under one) or a backpack (for children up to about four years old) with a built-in shade top. These can be purchased or rented from outfitters throughout the region. ¨¨Older kids need sturdy shoes and, for playing in streams, water sandals.

Pacific Science Center Fascinating, hands-on exhibits at this center in Seattle, plus an IMAX theater, planetarium and laser shows. (p187)

¨¨To minimize concerns about bed configurations, it’s a good idea to bring a portable crib for infants and sleeping bags for older children.

New Mexico Museum of Natural History & Science Check out the Hall of Jurassic Supergiants in Albuquerque. (p394)

¨¨Towels for playing in water between destinations. ¨¨Rain gear.

Mini Time Machine Museum of Miniatures You may not get many rainy days in Tucson, but when the monsoon season arrives this museum of tiny but intricate houses and scenes is a mesmerizing place to explore. (p348)

¨¨A snuggly fleece or heavy sweater (even in summer, desert nights can be cold). ¨¨Sun hats (especially if you are camping). ¨¨Bug repellent.

Resources for Families

Planning Consider the weather and the crowds when planning a Western US family getaway. The peak travel season is from June to August, when schools are out and the weather is warmest. Expect high prices and abundant crowds – meaning long lines at amusement and water parks, fully booked resort areas, and heavy traffic on the roads; reserve well in advance for popular destinations. The same holds true for winter resorts (eg the Rockies, Lake Tahoe) during the high season of January to March.

Travel with Children For all-round information and advice, check out Lonely Planet’s guide. Kids in the Wild: A Family Guide to Outdoor Recreation (Cindy Ross and Todd Gladfelter) For outdoor advice. A Trailside Guide: Parents’ Guide to Hiking & Camping (Alice Cary) Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles. com) Offers ready-made vacation ideas, destination profiles and travel suggestions by age range. Kids.gov The eclectic, enormous national resource, where you can download songs and activities and follow links to kid-focused information from big-name museums like the Smithsonian and MOMA.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Regions at a Glance What image springs to mind when someone mentions the West? A saguaro cactus, or maybe the Grand Canyon? Either would be accurate – for Arizona. But the West holds so much more. Sun-kissed beaches in California. Lush forests in the Pacific Northwest. Leafy single-track trails in the Rockies. Crimson buttes and crumbly hoodoos in Utah. There’s a landscape for every mood and adventure. Cultural travelers can explore Native American sites in Arizona and New Mexico. There’s upscale shopping, fine dining and big-city bustle in Los Angeles, Phoenix, San Francisco and Seattle. Are you a history buff? Visit Mormon settlements in Utah, Spanish missions in California or Old West towns just about everywhere. Ready to let loose? Two words: Las Vegas.

California Beaches Outdoor Adventure Food & Wine

Gorgeous Shores With more than 1100 miles of coastline, California rules the sands: you’ll find rugged, pristine beaches in the north and peoplepacked beauties in the south, with great surfing, sea kayaking or beachwalking all along the coast.

Wild Playgrounds Swoosh down snowy slopes, raft on white-water rivers, kayak beside coastal islands, hike past waterfalls and climb boulders in the desert. The problem isn’t choice in California, it’s finding enough time to do it all.

Nature’s Bounty Fertile fields, talented chefs and an insatiable appetite for the new make California a major culinary destination. Browse local food markets, sample Pinot and Chardonnay beside lush vineyards, and dine on farm-to-table fare.

p60

PL A N YO U R TRI P R e g i o n s at a G l a n c e

Pacific Northwest

Rocky Mountains

Southwest

Cycling Food & Wine National Parks

Outdoor Adventure Western Culture Dramatic Landscapes

Natural Scenery Native Cultures Food

Pedal Power

Rugged Fun

Bicycle on paved, rolling roads in the tranquil San Juan Islands, cruise the bluff-dotted Oregon coast along Hwy 101 or pedal the streets of Portland, a city that embraces two-wheeled travel with loads of bike lanes, costumed theme rides and handcrafted bike shows.

Adrenaline junkie? Hit the Rockies, a world-class skiing, hiking and cycling destination. Everyone is welcome, with hundreds of races and group rides, and an incredible infrastructure of parks, trails and adventure huts.

Red-Rock Country

Locavores & Oenophiles No longer ‘Up and coming,’ the food scene has arrived and smudged up its apron in the Pacific Northwest. In Portland and Seattle, chefs blend fish caught in local waters with vegetables harvested in the Eden-like valleys surrounding the Columbia River. Washington’s wine is second only to California’s.

Classic Parks The Northwest has four national parks, including three classics dating from the turn of the 20th century – Olympic, Mount Rainier and Crater Lake. The newest is North Cascades, established in 1968.

p174

Modern Cowboys

The Southwest is famous for the jaw-dropping Grand Canyon, the dramatic red buttes of Monument Valley, the crimson arches of Moab and the fiery buttes of Sedona – just a few of many geographic wonders in and around the spectacular national parks and forests.

Once sporting Stetson cowboy hats and prairie dresses, today’s freedomloving Rocky folk are more often spotted in lycra, with a mountain bike hitched nearby, sipping a microbrew or latte at a sunny outdoor cafe. Hard playing and slow living still rule.

Pueblos & Reservations

Alpine Wonderland

Good Eats

The snow-covered Rocky Mountains are pure majesty. With chiseled peaks, clear rivers and red-rock contours, the Rockies contain some of the world’s most famous parks, and bucketloads of clean mountain air.

p233

Visiting the Hopi and Navajo Nations or one of the 19 New Mexico pueblos is a fine introduction to America’s first inhabitants. This is your best bet for appreciating, and purchasing, native-made crafts. Try chile-slathered chicken enchiladas in New Mexico, a messy Sonoran hotdog in Tucson or a hearty steak just about anywhere in the region. In Vegas, stretch your fat pants and your budget at one of the extravagant buffets. For gourmands, off-the-Strip restaurants offer the most intriguing epicurean experiences.

p301

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

On the Road WA MT

Pacific Northwest p174 OR

Rocky Mountains p233

WY CA

California p60

NV UT

Southwest p301

OK NM TX

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

California Includes 

Los Angeles................... 64 San Diego...................... 89 Palm Springs.............. 100 Santa Barbara..............107 San Francisco.............. 119 Northern California.....147 North Coast.................152 Sierra Nevada..............163 Yosemite National Park...............163

Best Places to Eat ¨¨Chez Panisse (p146)

Why Go?

With bohemian spirit and high-tech savvy, not to mention a die-hard passion for the good life – whether that means cracking open a bottle of old-vine Zinfandel, climbing a 14,000ft peak or surfing the Pacific – California soars beyond any expectations sold on Hollywood’s silver screens. More than anything, California is iconic. It was here that the hurly-burly gold rush kicked off in the mid-19th century, where poet-naturalist John Muir rhapsodized about the Sierra Nevada’s ‘range of light,’ and where Jack Kerouac and the Beat Generation defined what it really means to hit the road. California’s multicultural melting pot has been cookin’ since this bountiful promised land was staked out by Spain and Mexico. Today, waves of immigrants from around the world still look to find their own American dream on these palm-studded Pacific shores. Come see the future in the making here in the Golden State.

¨¨Oxbow Public Market

(p148) ¨¨State Bird Provisions (p139) ¨¨George’s at the Cove (p98) ¨¨Bestia (p80)

When to Go Los Angeles °C/°F Temp

Rainfall Inches/mm

40/104

Best Places to Hike ¨¨Yosemite National Park

(p163) ¨¨Sequoia & Kings Canyon

National Parks (p167) ¨¨Marin County (p144) ¨¨Redwood National & State

Parks (p155) ¨¨Death Valley National Park

(p106)

6/150

30/86

4/100

20/68 2/50

10/50 0/32

0 J

Jun–Aug Mostly sunny weather, occasional coastal fog; summer vacation crowds.

Apr–May & Sep– Oct Cooler nights, many cloudless days; travel bargains galore.

Nov–Mar Peak tourism at mountain ski resorts and in SoCal’s warm deserts.

History

CALIFORNIA IN… One Week

California in a nutshell: start in beachy Los Angeles, detouring to Disneyland. Head up the breezy Central Coast, stopping in Santa Barbara and Big Sur, before getting a dose of big-city culture in San Francisco. Head inland to nature’s temple, Yosemite National Park, then zip back to LA.

Two Weeks

Follow the one-week itinerary above, but at a saner pace. Add jaunts to NorCal’s Wine Country; Lake Tahoe, perched high in the Sierra Nevada; the bodacious beaches of Orange County and laid-back San Diego; or Joshua Tree National Park, near the chic desert resort of Palm Springs.

One Month Do everything described above, and more. From San Francisco, head up the foggy North Coast, starting in Marin County at Point Reyes National Seashore. Stroll Victorian-era Mendocino and Eureka, find yourself on the Lost Coast and ramble through fern-filled Redwood National & State Parks. Inland, snap a postcard-perfect photo of Mt Shasta, drive through Lassen Volcanic National Park and ramble in California’s historic Gold Country. Trace the backbone of the Eastern Sierra before winding down into otherworldly Death Valley National Park.

Ca li fo rnia H I S T O R Y

By the time European explorers arrived in the 16th century, more than 100,000 indigenous people called this land we now call California home. Spanish conquistadors combed through what they named Alta (Upper) California in search of a fabled ‘city of gold,’ but they left the territory virtually alone after failing to find it. Not until the Mission Period (1769–1833) did Spain make a serious attempt to settle the land, establishing 21 Catholic missions – many founded by Franciscan priest Junípero Serra – and presidios (military forts) to deter the British and Russians. After winning independence from Spain in 1821, Mexico briefly ruled California, but got trounced by the fledgling United States in the Mexican-American War (1846–48). The discovery of gold just weeks before the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed saw the territory’s nonindigenous population quintuple to 93,000 by 1850, when California became the 31st US state. Thousands of imported Chinese laborers helped complete the transcontinental railroad in 1869, which opened up markets and further spurred migration to the Golden State. The 1906 San Francisco earthquake was barely a hiccup as California continued to grow exponentially in size, diversity and importance. Mexican immigrants streamed in during the 1910–20 Mexican Revolution, and again during WWII, to fill labor shortages. Military-driven industries developed during

wartime, while anti-Asian sentiments led to the unjust internment of many Japanese Americans, including at Manzanar in the Eastern Sierra. California has long been a social pioneer thanks to its size, confluence of wealth, diversity of immigration and technological innovation. Since the early 20th century, Hollywood has mesmerized the world with its cinematic dreams. Meanwhile, San Francisco reacted against the banal complacency of post-WWII suburbia with Beat poetry in the 1950s, hippie free love in the ’60s and gay pride in the ’70s. California is not a finished work. Today’s issues revolve around growth. In a state that has an economy bigger than Canada’s and is the headquarters for cutting-edge industries, from space probes to biotechnology to Silicon Valley, the question of how to manage a burgeoning human population – with accompanying traffic gridlock, scarce affordable housing and the sky-high cost of living – is challenging. Meanwhile, prisons are overflowing, state parks are underfunded and the conundrum of illegal immigration from Mexico, which fills a critical cheap labor shortage (especially in agriculture), vexes the state. Most worrying is California’s extreme, years-long drought that shows no signs of abating, affecting farmers and urban dwellers alike with water shortages. In response, Governor Jerry Brown officially declared a state of emergency and instituted strict water-conservation measures statewide.

waves off sunny San Diego (p89) beaches.

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Fort Bragg

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volcanic mud baths of Calistoga (p147) near famous Napa Valley vineyards.

ive Sa c ra me nto R

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car up dizzying hills in foggy, always fabulous San Francisco (p119).

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atop sculpted sea cliffs on the bohemian Big Sur coast (p113).

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of multicultural neighborhoods and Hollywood’s redcarpet nightlife in Los Angeles (p64).

2 Making the most

waterfalls and climbing granite domes in Yosemite National Park (p163).

1 Chasing

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California Highlights

Klamath Basin National Wildlife Grants Pass Refuges # \

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Ca li fo rnia H i g hli g hts

5 Ó V U

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swimming holes and panning like a fortyniner prospector in Gold Country (p158).

a Dipping into

elephant seals and tule elk at wind-blown Point Reyes National Seashore (p145).

OCEAN

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# \

Paso Robles

46 c m

99 c m

Visalia

# \

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178 k d

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127 k d

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Red Rock Coa # Canyon # Bakersfield ÷ Baker \ # ÷ st Buena State Park # \ R 58 Pismo Beach c m a Vista Mojave 15 395 # Mojave ] \ V Ó U Ca Û Lake 101 National Û ] Aq lifo # Barstow \ 58 Preserve c m ue rni # \ 1 du a c m 5 Los Olivos Needles V Ó U Route 66 ct 40 # \ 15 # Lompoc \ V Ó U V Ó U Palmdale Santa Amboy # \ 154 k d \ # Route 66 #Victorville \ Barbara Mojave 18 c m # \ Big Bear # Santa Clarita \ Desert 101 Û ] San Lake Yucca # \ Ventura # 210 Valley V Ó U Bernardino \ Twentynine Palms # ] # # \ # \ # \ \ 1 62 c m # ] c m Channel Islands # 2 Pasadena # # \ Joshua Tree ÷ # Riverside ] National Park Santa Monica Joshua Tree Palm Springs ÷ Channel # # \ # ] Co Anaheim National Park Los Angeles ] Islands 62 # c m # \ Newport Beach Va ach Long Beach # \ lle ella 10 Indio 215 V Ó U V Ó U y # \ # \ Borrego Avalon Laguna Phoenix Temecula Springs Salton # \ San Nicolas Beach (150mi) Santa # Niland \ # \ # Island 86 Sea c m Escondido Catalina Oceanside \ # \ 78 # \ 111 c m k d Island Carlsbad # ÷ 15 79 San Clemente c m V Ó U Anza-Borrego Island 8 V Ó U Desert State Park 6 San Diego #

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sand dunes and uncovering Old West ghost towns in Death Valley National Park (p106).

1 c m

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8 Trekking across

neck at the world’s tallest trees along the Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt Redwoods State Park (p154).

180 k d

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CALIFORNIA FACTS Nickname Golden State State motto Eureka (‘I Have Found It’) Population 38.8 million

Ca li fo rnia L os A n g e l e s

Area 155,779 sq miles Capital city Sacramento (population 479,686) Other cities Los Angeles (population 3,884,307), San Diego (population 1,355,896), San Francisco (population 837,442) Sales tax 7.5% Birthplace of Author John Steinbeck (1902–68), photographer Ansel Adams (1902– 84), US president Richard Nixon (1913–94), pop-culture icon Marilyn Monroe (1926–62) Home of The highest and lowest points in the contiguous US (Mt Whitney, Death Valley), world’s oldest, tallest and biggest living trees (ancient bristlecone pines, coast redwoods and giant sequoias, respectively) Politics Majority Democrat, minority Republican, one in five Californians vote independent Famous for Disneyland, earthquakes, Hollywood, hippies, Silicon Valley, surfing Kitschiest souvenir ‘Mystery Spot’ bumper sticker Driving distances Los Angeles to San Francisco 380 miles, San Francisco to Yosemite Valley 190 miles

Local Culture Currently the world’s seventh-largest economy, California is a state of extremes, where grinding poverty shares urban corridors with fabulous wealth. Waves of immigrants keep arriving, and neighborhoods are often miniversions of their homelands. Tolerance for others is the social norm, but so is intolerance, which you’ll encounter if you smoke or drive on freeways during rush hour. Untraditional and unconventional attitudes define California, a trendsetter by nature. Think of the state as the USA’s most futuristic social laboratory. If technology identifies a new useful gadget, Silicon Valley will build it at light speed. If postmodern celebrities, bizarrely famous for the mere fact of being famous, make a fashion statement or get thrown in jail, the nation pays attention. Arguably no other state has as big of an effect on how the rest of Americans work, play, eat and, yes, recycle.

LOS ANGELES LA County represents the nation in extremes. Its people are among America’s richest and poorest, most established and newest arrivals, most refined and roughest, most beautiful and most botoxed, most er-

udite and most airheaded. Even the landscape is a microcosm of the USA, from cinematic beaches to snow-dusted mountains, skyscrapers to suburban sprawl and even wilderness where mountain lions prowl. If you think you’ve already got LA figured out – celebutantes, smog, traffic, bikini babes and pop-star wannabes – think again. LA is best defined by simple life-affirming moments: a cracked-ice, jazz-age cocktail after midnight, a hike high into the sagebrush of Griffith Park, a pink-washed sunset over a Venice Beach drum circle, or simply tracking down the perfect taco. With Hollywood and Downtown LA both undergoing an urban renaissance, the city’s art, music, food and fashion scenes are all in high gear. Chances are, the more you explore, the more you’ll love ‘La-La Land.’

History The hunter-gatherer existence of the area’s Gabrieleño and Chumash peoples ended with the arrival of Spanish missionaries and colonists in the late 18th century. Spain’s first civilian settlement, El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de Los Ángeles del Río de Porciúncula, remained an isolated farming outpost for decades after its founding in 1781. The city wasn’t officially incorporated until 1850.

1 Sights A dozen miles inland from the Pacific, Downtown LA combines history and highbrow arts and culture. Hip-again Hollywood awaits northwest of Downtown, while urban- designer chic and gay pride rule West Hollywood. South of WeHo, Museum Row is Mid-City’s main draw. Further west are ritzy Beverly Hills, Westwood near the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) campus and West LA. Beach towns include kid-friendly Santa Monica, boho Venice, star-powered Malibu and busy Long Beach. Leafy Pasadena lies northeast of Downtown.

1 Downtown For decades, LA’s historic core and main business and government district emptied out on nights and weekends. No more. Crowds fill fine-arts performance and pop-entertainment venues, and young professionals and artists have moved into lofts, bringing bars, restaurants and art galleries. Downtown is most easily explored on foot,

combined with short Metro Rail and DASH minibus rides. Parking lots are cheapest around Little Tokyo and Chinatown.

1 El Pueblo de Los Angeles & Around

Compact, colorful and car free, this historic district immerses you in LA’s Spanish-Mexican roots. Its spine is festive Olvera St (Map p68; www.calleolvera.com; c ), where you can snap up handmade folkloric trinkets, then chomp on tacos and sugar-sprinkled churros. ‘New’ Chinatown (Map p68; www.chinatownla.com) is about a half mile north along Broadway and Hill St, crammed with dim-sum parlors, herbal apothecaries, curio shops and Chung King Rd’s edgy art galleries. La Plaza de Cultura y Artes MUSEUM (Map p68; % 213-542-6200; www.lapca.org; 501 N Main St; h noon-5pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun) F This museum chronicles the

Mexican-American experience in Los Angeles, from the Mexican-American War when the border crossed the original pueblo, to the Zoot Suit Riots to Cesar Chavez and the Chicana movement. Avila Adobe MUSEUM (Map p68; % 213-628-1274; http://elpueblo.lacity. org; Olvera St; h 9am-4pm) F The oldest

surviving house in LA was built in 1818 by a wealthy ranchero and one-time LA mayor, and later became a boarding house and (restaurant. Restored and furnished in heavy

LOS ANGELES IN… Distances are ginormous in LA, so allow extra time for traffic and don’t try to pack too much into a day.

One Day

Fuel up for the day at the Original Farmers Market, then go star-searching on the Hollywood Walk of Fame along Hollywood Blvd. Up your chances of spotting actual celebs by hitting the fashion-forward boutiques on paparazzi-infested Robertson Boulevard, or get a dose of nature at Griffith Park. Then drive west to the lofty Getty Center or head out to the Venice Boardwalk to see the seaside sideshow. Catch a Pacific sunset in Santa Monica.

Two Days

Explore rapidly evolving Downtown LA. Dig up the city’s roots at El Pueblo de Los Angeles, then catapult to the future at dramatic Walt Disney Concert Hall topping Grand Ave’s Cultural Corridor. Walk off lunch ambling between Downtown’s historic buildings, Arts District galleries and Little Tokyo. At South Park’s glitzy LA Live entertainment center, romp through the multimedia Grammy Museum, then join real-life celebs cheering on the LA Lakers next door at the Staples Center. After dark, hit the dance floor at clubs in Hollywood.

Ca li fo rnia L os A n g e l e s

LA’s population repeatedly swelled after the collapse of the California gold rush, the arrival of the transcontinental railroad, the growth of the citrus industry, the discovery of oil, the launch of the port of LA, the birth of the movie industry and the opening of the California Aqueduct. After WWII, the city’s population doubled from nearly two million in 1950 to almost four million today.

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molten blend of steel, music and psychedelic architecture, this iconic concert venue is the home base of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, but has also hosted contemporary bands such as Phoenix and classic jazz men like Sonny Rollins. Frank Gehry pulled out all the stops: the building is a gravity-defying sculpture of heaving and billowing stainless steel. Museum of Contemporary Art MUSEUM (MOCA; Map p68; % 213-626-6222; www.moca.org; 250 S Grand Ave; adult/child $12/free, 5-8pm Thu free; h 11am-5pm Mon & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 6pm Sat & Sun) A collection that arcs from the 1940s

to the present and includes works by Mark Rothko, Dan Flavin, Joseph Cornell and other big-shot contemporary artists is housed in a postmodern building by Arata Isozaki. Galleries are below ground, yet sky-lit bright.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels CHURCH (Map p68; % 213-680-5200; www.olacathedral. org; 555 W Temple St; h 6:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat, from 7am Sun; p ) F José Ra-

fael Moneo mixed Gothic proportions with contemporary design for his 2002 Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, which exudes a calming serenity achieved by soft light filtering through its alabaster panes. Wall-sized tapestries as detailed as a Michelangelo fresco festoon the main nave. City Hall LANDMARK (Map p68; % 213-978-1995; www.lacity.org; 200 N Spring St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) F Until 1966

no LA building stood taller than the 1928 City Hall, which appeared in the Superman TV series and 1953 sci-fi thriller War of the Worlds. On clear days you’ll have views of the city, the mountains and several decades of Downtown growth from the observation deck.

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1 Little Tokyo Little Tokyo swirls with shopping arcades, Buddhist temples, traditional gardens, authentic sushi bars and noodle shops, and a provocative branch of MOCA (Map p68; % 213626-6222; www.moca.org; 152 N Central Ave; adult/ child/student 12yr & under $12/free/7; h 11am-5pm Mon & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 6pm Sat & Sun).

1 Civic Center &

Cultural Corridor oWalt Disney Concert Hall

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(Map p68; % info 213-972-7211, tickets 323-8502000; www.laphil.org; 111 S Grand Ave; h guided

Japanese American National Museum MUSEUM (Map p68; % 213-625-0414; www.janm.org; 100 N Central Ave; adult/child $9/5; h 11am-5pm Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun, noon-8pm Thu) A great first

Ca li fo rnia L os A n g e l e s

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tours usually noon & 1pm Tue-Sat; p ) F A

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stop in Little Tokyo, this is the country’s first museum dedicated to the Japanese immigrant experience. You’ll be moved by galleries dealing with the painful chapter of the WWII internment camps. Afterward relax in the tranquil garden, and browse the well-stocked gift shop. Admission is free on Thursdays from 5pm to 8pm, and all day on the third Thursday of each month.

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around LA Live (Map p68; www.lalive.com; 800 W Olympic Blvd), a dining and entertainment hub where you’ll find the Staples Center (p83) and Nokia Theatre (Map p68; % 213763-6030; www.nokiatheatrelive.com; 777 Chick Hearn Ct).

oGrammy Museum

MUSEUM

(Map p68; % 213-765-6800; www.grammymuseum.org; 800 W Olympic Blvd; adult/child $13/11, after 6pm $8; h 11:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; c ) It’s the highlight of LA

Live. Music lovers will get lost in interactive exhibits, which define, differentiate and link

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Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 17 Downtown Art Walk............................. C4

ú Eating 19 Cole's..................................................... D4 20 Sushi Gen...............................................E4 û Drinking & Nightlife 21 Angel City Brewery ...............................E4 ý Entertainment 22 Nokia Theatre........................................A4 23 Staples Center ......................................A5 United Artists Theatre................ (see 18)

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æ Sights 3 Avila Adobe............................................E2 4 Bradbury Building.................................D3 5 Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels..................................................D2 6 Chinatown..............................................E2 7 City Hall ..................................................E3 8 Geffen Contemporary at MOCA .........E3 9 Grand Central Market ..........................D3 10 Japanese American National Museum ..............................................E4 11 LA Live ....................................................A4 12 La Plaza de Cultura y Artes .................E2 13 Museum of Contemporary Art............D3 14 Olvera Street .........................................E2 15 Pershing Square .................................. C4 16 Union Station......................................... F3

ÿ Sleeping 18 Ace Hotel................................................C5

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Downtown Los Angeles æ Top Sights 1 Grammy Museum.................................A4 2 Walt Disney Concert Hall .....................D3

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þ Shopping 24 Fashion District .....................................C5 25 Raggedy Threads..................................E4

musical genres, while live footage strobes. You can glimpse such things as Guns N’ Roses’ bass drum, Lester Young’s tenor sax, Yo Yo Ma’s cello and Michael’s glove (though exhibits and collections do rotate).

1 Exposition Park & Around Just south of the University of Southern California (USC) campus, this park has a full day’s worth of kid-friendly museums. Outdoor landmarks include the Rose Garden (www.laparks.org; 701 State Dr; h 9am-sunset Mar 16–Dec 31) F and the Los Angeles Me-

morial Coliseum, site of the 1932 and 1984

Summer Olympic Games. Parking costs around $10. From Downtown, take the Metro Expo Line or DASH minibus F. Natural History Museum of Los Angeles MUSEUM (% 213-763-3466; www.nhm.org; 900 Exposition Blvd; adult/child/student & senior $12/5/9; h 9:30am-5pm; c ) Dinos to diamonds, bears

to beetles, hissing roaches to African elephants – this museum will take you around the world and back, across millions of years in time. It’s all housed in a beautiful 1913 Spanish Renaissance–style building that

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stood in for Columbia University in the first Toby McGuire Spider-Man movie – yup, this was where Peter Parker was bitten by the radioactive arachnid.

Ca li fo rnia L os A n g e l e s

California Science Center MUSEUM (% film schedule 213-744-2109, info 323-724-3623; www.californiasciencecenter.org; 700 Exposition Park Dr; IMAX movie adult/child $8.25/5; h 10am5pm; c ) F A simulated earthquake, baby

chicks hatching and a giant techno-doll named Tess bring out the kid in all of us at this multimedia museum with plenty of buttons to push, lights to switch on and knobs to pull. Don’t miss seeing the space shuttle Endeavour, which requires a timed-ticket reservation (fee $2) Watts Towers LANDMARK (% 213-847-4646; www.wattstowers.us; 1761-1765 E 107th St; adult/child under 13yr/child 13-17yr & senior $7/free/$3; h 11am-3pm Fri, 10:30am-3pm Sat, 12:30-3pm Sun; p ) The fabulous Watts Tow-

ers rank among the world’s greatest monuments of folk art. In 1921 Italian immigrant Simon Rodia set out ‘to make something big’ and then spent 33 years cobbling together this whimsical free-form sculpture from a motley assortment of found objects, from green 7-Up bottles to sea shells, and rocks to pottery.

1 Hollywood Just as aging movie stars get the occasional face-lift, so has Hollywood. While it still hasn’t recaptured its mid-20th-century ‘Golden Age’ glamour, its contemporary seediness is disappearing. The Hollywood Walk of Fame (Map p71; www.walkoffame.com;

Hollywood Blvd) honors more than 2400 celeb-

rities with stars embedded in the sidewalk. The Metro Red Line stops beneath Hol-

lywood & Highland (Map p71; www.hollywood andhighland.com; 6801 Hollywood Blvd; h 10am10pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) F, a multistory

mall with nicely framed views of the hillside Hollywood Sign, erected in 1923 as an advertisement for a land development called Hollywoodland. Two-hour validated mall parking costs $2 (daily maximum $15). TCL Chinese Theatre LANDMARK (Map p71; % 323-463-9576; www.tclchinese theatres.com; 6925 Hollywood Blvd; tours & movie tickets adult/child/senior $13.50/6.50/11.50)

Ever wondered what it’s like to be in George Clooney’s shoes? Just find his footprints in the forecourt of this world-famous movie palace. The exotic pagoda theater – complete with temple bells and stone heaven dogs from China – has shown movies since 1927 when Cecil B DeMille’s The King of Kings first flickered across the screen. Hollywood Museum MUSEUM (Map p71; % 323-464-7776; www.thehollywoodmuseum.com; 1660 N Highland Ave; adult/child $15/5; h 10am-5pm Wed-Sun) We quite like this mus-

ty temple to the stars, crammed with kitsch posters, costumes and rotating props. The museum is housed inside the handsome 1914 art-deco Max Factor Building, where the make-up pioneer once worked his magic on Marilyn Monroe and Judy Garland. Dolby Theatre THEATER (Map p71; www.dolbytheatre.com; 6801 Hollywood Blvd; tours adult/child, senior & student $19/15; h 10:30am-4pm) The Academy Awards are

handed out at the Dolby Theatre, which has

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES At the center of Downtown’s historic district, Pershing Square (Map p68; www.laparks. org; 532 S Olive St) was LA’s first public park (1866). Now encircled by high-rises, the park exhibits public art and hosts summer concerts and outdoor movie nights. Nearby, some of LA’s turn-of-the-last century architecture remains as it once was. Pop into the 1893 Bradbury Building (Map p68; www.laconservancy.org; 304 S Broadway; h lobby usually 9am-5pm), the dazzling galleried atrium of which has had a cameo in several hit movies, including Blade Runner, (500) Days of Summer and The Artist. In the early 20th century, Broadway was a glamorous shopping and theater strip, where megastars like Charlie Chaplin leapt from limos to attend premieres at lavish movie palaces. Some – such as the 1927 United Artists Theatre (Map p68; % 213-6233233; www.acehotel.com/losangeles/theatre; 929 S Broadway) – have been restored and once again host film screenings and live shows. Otherwise, take a weekend walking tour (reservations advised) with the Los Angeles Conservancy (% info 213-430-4219, reservations 213-623-2489; www.laconservancy.org; adult/child $10/5).

Delongpre Park B

also hosted the American Idol finale, the ESPY awards, the Miss USA pageant and a recent Neil Young residency. On the tour you get to sniff around the auditorium, admire a VIP room and see an Oscar statuette up close. Hollywood Forever Cemetery CEMETERY (% 323-469-1181; www.hollywoodforever.com; 6000 Santa Monica Blvd; h 8am-5pm; p ) Next

to Paramount, Hollywood Forever boasts lavish landscaping, over-the-top tombstones, epic mausoleums and a roll call of departed superstars. Residents include Cecil B DeMille, Rudolph Valentino, femme fatale Jayne Mansfield and punk-rock icons Johnny and Dee Dee Ramone. For a full list of residents, pick up a map ($5) at the flower shop (open from 9am to 5pm).

1 Griffith Park America’s largest urban park (% 323-9134688; www.laparks.org/dos/parks/griffithpk; 4730 Crystal Springs Dr; h 5am-10:30pm, trails sunrise-sunset; pc ) F is five times the size

of New York’s Central Park, with an outdoor theater, zoo, observatory, museum, merrygo-round, antique and miniature trains, children’s playgrounds, golf, tennis and over 50 miles of hiking paths, including to the original Batman TV series cave.

oGriffith Observatory

MUSEUM

(% 213-473-0800; www.griffithobservatory.org; 2800 E Observatory Rd; planetarium shows adult/ child $7/3; h noon-10pm Tue-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; pc ) F This landmark 1935 obser-

vatory opens a window onto the universe

# ý 13

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Hollywood æ Sights 1 Dolby Theatre........................................ A1 Egyptian Theatre ......................... (see 11) 2 Hollywood & Highland.......................... A1 3 Hollywood Museum.............................. B1 4 TCL Chinese Theatre ........................... A1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours TMZ Tours ..................................... (see 4) ÿ Sleeping 5 Magic Castle Hotel................................ A1 6 USA Hostels Hollywood .......................B2 7 Vibe Hotel .............................................. D1 ú Eating 8 Life Food Organic..................................C2 û Drinking & Nightlife 9 Musso & Frank Grill .............................. B1 10 No Vacancy............................................ B1 ý Entertainment 11 American Cinematheque..................... B1 12 Arclight Cinemas ..................................C2 13 Upright Citizens Brigade Theatre................................................ D1 ï Information Hollywood Visitor Information Center.................... (see 2)

from its perch on the southern slopes of Mt Hollywood. Its planetarium boasts the world’s most advanced star projector. Astronomical touch displays cover the evolution of the telescope and the ultraviolet x-rays used to map our solar system. We loved the camera obscura on the main floor.

Ca li fo rnia L os A n g e l e s

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UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD

Ca li fo rnia L os A n g e l e s

One of the world’s oldest continuously operating movie studios, Universal Studios Hollywood (www.universalstudioshollywood.com; 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City; admission from $87, under 3yr free; h open daily, hours vary; p c ) first opened to the public in 1915, when studio head Carl Laemmle invited visitors at a quaint 25¢ each (including a boxed lunch) to watch silent films being made. Nearly a century later, Universal presents an entertaining mix of fairly tame – and sometimes dated – thrills, including live-action shows, rides and attractions. The chances of seeing any action, however, let alone a real-life Hollywood star, are slim to none. Start with the 45-minute narrated studio tour aboard a giant, multicar tram that takes you past working soundstages, outdoor sets and King Kong 360 3-D, the world’s biggest 3D experience. Also prepare to survive a cheesy shark attack à la Jaws. Among dozens of other attractions, take a motion-simulated romp on The Simpsons Ride, splash down among Jurassic Park – The Ride dinosaurs or fight off Decepticons in Transformers: The Ride 3-D. The Special Effects Stage illuminates the craft of movie-making up close. Self-parking costs from $17 (after 3pm from $10). Free park shuttle buses connect with the Metro Red Line.

Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens ZOO (% 323-644-4200; www.lazoo.org; 5333 Zoo Dr; adult/child/senior $18/13/15; h 10am-5pm, closed Christmas; pc ) The Los Angeles Zoo, with

district.com). Further south, some of LA’s best museums line Mid-City’s Museum Row

along Wilshire Blvd east of Fairfax Ave.

its 1100 finned, feathered and furry friends from over 250 species, rarely fails to enthrall the little ones. What began in 1912 as a refuge for retired circus animals now brings in over a million visitors each year.

oLos Angeles County

Autry National Center MUSEUM (% 323-667-2000; www.autrynationalcenter.org; 4700 Western Heritage Way; adult/child/senior & student $10/4/6, 2nd Tue each month free; h 10am4pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; p ) Want to know

MA’s galleries are stuffed with all the major players – Rembrandt, Cézanne, Magritte, Mary Cassat, Ansel Adams, to name a few – plus several millennia worth of ceramics from China, woodblock prints from Japan, pre-Columbian art, and ancient sculpture from Greece, Rome and Egypt.

how the West was really won? Then mosey over to this excellent museum – its exhibits on the good, the bad and the ugly of America’s westward expansion rope in even the most reluctant cowpokes. Kids can pan for gold and explore a stagecoach. Year-round gallery talks, symposia, film screenings and other cultural events spur the intellect.

1 West Hollywood & Mid-City In WeHo, rainbow flags fly proudly over Santa Monica Blvd, while celebs keep gossip rags happy by misbehaving at clubs on the fabled Sunset Strip. Boutiques along Robertson Blvd and Melrose Ave purvey sassy and ultrachic fashions for Hollywood royalty and celebutantes. WeHo’s also a hotbed of cutting-edge interior design, fashion and art, particularly in the West Hollywood Design District (http://westhollywooddesign

Museum of Art MUSEUM (LACMA; Map p74; % 323-857-6000; www.lacma.org; 5905 Wilshire Blvd; adult/child $15/free; h 11am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 9pm Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; p ) LA’s premier art museum, LAC-

Page Museum & La Brea Tar Pits MUSEUM (Map p74; www.tarpits.org; 5801 Wilshire Blvd; adult/child/student & senior $12/5/9, 1st Tue of month Sep-Jun free; h 9:30am-5pm; pc ) Mam-

moths and saber-toothed cats used to roam LA’s savannah in prehistoric times. We know this because of an archaeological trove of skulls and bones unearthed at La Brea Tar Pits, one of the world’s most fecund and famous fossil sites.

1 Beverly Hills & the Westside The mere mention of Beverly Hills conjures images of Maseratis, manicured mansions and megarich moguls. Take a saunter along pricey, pretentious Rodeo Drive, a threeblock ribbon where sample-size fembots browse for fashions from international

houses of couture. Via Rodeo is a cobbled lane lined with outdoor cafes for primo people-watching. Several municipal lots and garages in downtown Beverly Hills offer two hours of free parking. MUSEUM

(% 310-440-7300; www.getty.edu; 1200 Getty Center Dr, off I-405 Fwy; h 10am-5:30pm Tue-Fri & Sun, to 9pm Sat; p ) F In its billion-dollar,

in-the-clouds perch, high above the city grit and grime, the Getty Center presents triple delights: a stellar art collection (everything from Renaissance artists to David Hockney), Richard Meier’s cutting-edge architecture, and the visual splendor of seasonally changing gardens. Admission is free, but parking is $15 ($10 after 5pm). Paley Center for Media MUSEUM (Map p74; % 310-786-1000; www.paleycenter.org; 465 N Beverly Dr; suggested donation adult/child $10/5; h noon-5pm Wed-Sun; p ) The main

lure here is the mind-boggling archive of TV and radio broadcasts dating to 1918. The Beatles’ US debut on the Ed Sullivan Show? The moon landing? The All In The Family pilot? All here. Plus, two theaters for screenings and discussions with the casts of shows such as the great Key & Peele and How I Met Your Mother. Hammer Museum MUSEUM (http://hammer.ucla.edu; 10899 Wilshire Blvd; h 11am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) F

Once a vanity project of the late oil tycoon Armand Hammer, his eponymous museum has become a widely respected art space. Selections from Hammer’s personal collection include relatively minor works by Monet, Van Gogh and Mary Cassat, but the museum really shines when it comes to cutting-edge contemporary exhibits featuring local, under-represented and controversial artists. Best of all, it’s free.

1 Malibu Hugging 27 spectacular miles of the Pacific Coast Hwy, Malibu has long been synonymous with surfing and Hollywood stars, but it actually looks far less posh than glossy tabloids make it sound. Still, it has been celebrity central since the 1930s. Many Alisters have homes here, and can sometimes be spotted shopping at the villagelike Malibu Country Mart (www.malibucountrymart.com; 3835 Cross Creek Rd).

(www.parks.ca.gov; Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Rd), a popular movie and TV filming loca-

tion with hiking trails galore (parking $12). A string of famous beaches include aptly named Surfrider near Malibu Pier, secretive El Matador, family fave Zuma Beach and wilder Point Dume (beach parking $3 to $12.50).

oGetty Villa

MUSEUM

(% 310-430-7300; www.getty.edu; 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy; h 10am-5pm Wed-Mon; p ) F

Although self-described as the Getty Villa Malibu, this famous museum in a replica 1st-century Roman villa is actually in Pacific Palisades. It’s a stunning 64-acre showcase for exquisite Greek, Roman and Etruscan antiquities amassed by oil tycoon J Paul Getty. Admission requires a timed ticket, reservable online; parking costs $15.

1 Santa Monica The belle by the beach mixes urban cool with a laid-back vibe. Tourists, teens and street performers throng car-free, chainstore-lined Third Street Promenade. For more local flavor, shop posh Montana Avenue or eclectic Main Street, backbone of the neighborhood once nicknamed ‘Dogtown,’ the birthplace of skateboard culture. There’s free 90-minute parking in most public garages downtown. Santa Monica Pier LANDMARK (Map p76; % 310-458-8900; www.santamonica pier.org; c ) Once the very end of the myth-

ical Route 66, and still the object of a tourist love affair, the Santa Monica Pier dates back to 1908, and is the city’s most compelling landmark. There are arcades, carnival games, a vintage carousel, a Ferris wheel, a roller coaster and an aquarium, and the pier comes alive with free concerts (Twilight Dance Series) and outdoor movies in the summertime.

1 Venice The Venice Boardwalk (Ocean Front Walk) is a freak show, a human zoo, a wacky carnival and an essential LA experience. This cauldron of counterculture is the place to get your hair braided and a qigong back massage, or pick up a Rastafarian-colored knit beret. Encounters with bodybuilders, a Speedo-clad snake charmer or a

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oGetty Center

One of Malibu’s natural treasures is mountainous Malibu Creek State Park

Beverly Hills, West Hollywood & Mid-City

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roller-skating Sikh minstrel are possible, especially on sunny afternoons. To escape the hubbub, meander inland to the Venice Canals, a vestige of Venice’s early days when Italian gondoliers poled tourists along artificial waterways. Funky, hipper-than-ever Abbot Kinney Blvd is a palm-lined mile of restaurants, cafes, art galleries and eclectic shops selling vintage furniture and handmade fashions. There’s street parking near Abbot Kinney Blvd. Beach parking lots cost $4 to $18.

1 Long Beach Long Beach stretches along LA County’s southern flank, harboring the world’s third-busiest container port after Singapore and Hong Kong. Its industrial edge has been worn smooth downtown – Pine Ave is chockablock with restaurants and bars – and along the restyled waterfront. The Metro Blue Line connects Downtown LA with Long Beach in under an hour. Passport (www.lbtransit.com) minibuses shuttle around major tourist sights for free.

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Aquarium of the Pacific AQUARIUM (% tickets 562-590-3100; www.aquariumofpacific.org; 100 Aquarium Way; adult/child/senior $29/15/26; h 9am-6pm; c ) Long Beach’s

most mesmerizing experience, the Aquarium of the Pacific is a vast, high-tech indoor ocean where sharks dart, jellyfish dance and sea lions frolic. More than 12,000 creatures inhabit four re-created habitats: the bays and lagoons of Baja California, the frigid northern Pacific, the coral reefs of the tropics, and local kelp forests. Parking costs $8.

Beverly Hills, West Hollywood & Mid-City

æ Top Sights 1 Los Angeles County Museum of Art ..E4 æ Sights 2 Page Museum & La Brea Tar Pits....... E5 3 Paley Center for Media ........................A4 ÿ Sleeping 4 Beverly Terrace Hotel ..........................B3 5 Farmer's Daughter Hotel .....................E3 6 Mr C ........................................................A5 7 Pali Hotel................................................D2 ú Eating 8 Mercado .................................................E4 9 Nate ̓ n Al.................................................A4 10 Original Farmers Market......................E4 11 Pingtung.................................................E2 û Drinking & Nightlife 12 Abbey .....................................................B2 13 Bar Marmont ......................................... D1 14 Micky's ...................................................C2 ý Entertainment 15 El Rey...................................................... F5 16 Largo at the Coronet ............................C3 þ Shopping 17 Fred Segal..............................................D2 18 Melrose Avenue ....................................E2

Queen Mary BOAT (www.queenmary.com; 1126 Queens Hwy; tours adult/child from $26/15; h 10am-6:30pm; p )

Long Beach’s ‘flagship’ attraction is this grand and supposedly haunted British luxury liner. Larger and more luxurious than even the Titanic, she transported royals, dignitaries, immigrants, WWII troops and vacationers between 1936 and 1966. Sure, it’s a tourist trap, but study the memorabilia, and you may envision dapper gents escorting ladies in gowns to the art-deco lounge for cocktails or to the sumptuous Grand Salon for dinner.

USS Iowa MUSEUM, MEMORIAL (% 877-446-9261; www.pacificbattleship.com; 250 S Harbor Blvd, Berth 87; adult/child $18/10; h 10am-5pm, from 9am Jun-Aug; p ) Step onto

the gangway and take a self-guided audio tour of this retired Pacific battleship, which transported Franklin D Roosevelt (FDR) and General Douglas MacArthur during WWII and saw action in the Cold War and beyond. Hourly parking is $1.

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Below the lofty San Gabriel Mountains, this city drips with wealth and gentility, feeling a world apart from urban LA. It’s known for its early 20th-century arts-and-crafts architecture and the Tournament of Roses Parade on New Year’s Day. Amble on foot around the shops, cafes, bars and restaurants of Old Town Pasadena, along Colorado Blvd east of Pasadena Ave. Metro Gold Line trains connect Pasadena and Downtown LA (20 minutes).

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Museum of Latin American Art MUSEUM (www.molaa.org; 628 Alamitos Ave; adult/child/ senior & student $9/free/6, Sun free; h 11am-5pm Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Fri; p ) This gem of

a museum presents a rare survey of Latin American art created since 1945. Cecilia Míguez’ whimsical bronze statuettes, Eduardo Kingman’s wrenching portraits of indigenous people and Arnaldo Roche Rabel’s intensely spiritual abstracts are among the many outstanding pieces in the permanent collection.

MUSEUM, GARDENS

(% 626-405-2100; www.huntington.org; 1151 Oxford Rd, San Marino; adult weekday/weekend & holidays $23/25, child $10, 1st Thu each month free; h 10:30am-4:30pm Wed-Mon Jun-Aug, noon4:30pm Mon & Wed-Fri, from 10:30am Sat, Sun & holidays Sep-May; p ) Unwind in the Zen-like

tranquillity of a Japanese garden. Study the jaunty pose of Thomas Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy. Linger over the illuminated vellum of a 1455 Gutenberg Bible. It’s hard to know where to start exploring this genteel country estate, the legacy of railroad tycoon Henry Huntington, and one of the most delightful and inspirational spots in LA. Advance tickets are required for free day admission. Gamble House ARCHITECTURE (% info 626-793-3334, tickets 800-979-3370; www. gamblehouse.org; 4 Westmoreland Pl, Pasadena; tours adult/child $15/free; h tours noon-3pm ThuSun, gift shop 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11:30am-5pm Sun; p ) It’s the exquisite attention to detail

that impresses most at the Gamble House,

Norton Simon Museum MUSEUM (www.nortonsimon.org; 411 W Colorado Blvd, Pasadena; adult/child $10/free; h noon-5pm Mon, Wed & Thu, 11am-8pm Fri-Sat; p ) Rodin’s The

Thinker is only a mind-teasing overture to the full symphony of art in store at this exquisite museum. Norton Simon (1907–93) was an entrepreneur with a Midas touch and a passion for art who parlayed his millions into a respectable collection of Western art and Asian sculpture.

2 Activities Cycling & In-line Skating

Get scenic exercise pedaling or skating along the paved South Bay Bicycle Trail, which parallels the beach for most of the 22 miles between Santa Monica and Pacific Palisades. Rental shops are plentiful in busy beach towns. Warning: it’s crowded on weekends. Hiking

Turn on your celeb radar while strutting it with the hot bods along Runyon Canyon Park above Hollywood. Griffith Park is also laced with trails. For longer rambles, head to the Santa Monica Mountains, where Will Rogers State Historic Park, Topanga State Park and Malibu Creek State Park are all excellent gateways to beautiful terrain (parking $8 to $12).

Swimming & Surfing

Top beaches for swimming are Malibu’s Leo Carrillo State Park, Santa Monica State Beach and the South Bay’s Hermosa Beach. Malibu’s Surfrider Beach is a legendary surfing spot. Parking rates vary seasonally. ‘Endless summer’ is, sorry to report, a myth; much of the year you’ll want a wet suit in the Pacific. Water temperatures become tolerable by June and peak just under 70°F (21°C) in August. Water quality varies; check the ‘Beach Report Card’ at http://brc. healthebay.org.

T Tours oEsotouric

BUS TOUR

(% 323-223-2767; www.esotouric.com; tours $58)

Discover LA’s lurid and fascinating underbelly on these offbeat, insightful and entertaining walking and bus tours themed around famous crime sites (Black Dahlia any one?), literary lions (Chandler to Bukowski) and more. Dearly Departed BUS TOUR (% 855-600-3323; www.dearlydepartedtours.com; tours $48-75) This long-running, occasional-

ly creepy, frequently hilarious tour will clue you in on where celebs kicked the bucket, George Michael dropped his trousers, Hugh Grant received certain services and the Charles Manson gang murdered Sharon Tate. Not for kids. TMZ Tours BUS TOUR (Map p71; % 855-486-9868; www.tmz.com/tour; 6925 Hollywood Blvd; adult/child $55/45; h approx 10 tours daily) Cut the shame, do you really

want to spot celebrities, glimpse their homes, and gawk and laugh at their dirt? Join this

TOURING MOVIE & TV STUDIOS Half the fun of visiting Hollywood is hoping you’ll see stars. Up the odds by joining the studio audience of a sitcom or game show, which usually tape between August and March. For free tickets, check with Audiences Unlimited (% 818-260-0041; www.tvtickets.com). For an authentic behind-the-scenes look, take a shuttle tour of Warner Bros Studios (% 877-492-8687, 818-972-8687; www.wbstudiotour.com; 3400 W Riverside Dr, Burbank; tours from $54; h 8:15am-4pm Mon-Sat, hours vary Sun) or Paramount Pictures (% 323-9561777; www.paramountstudiotour.com; 5555 Melrose Ave; tours from $53; h tours 9:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, hours vary Sat & Sun), or a walking tour of Sony Pictures Studios (% 310-2448687; www.sonypicturesstudiostours.com; 10202 W Washington Blvd; tour $38; h tours usually 9:30am, 10:30am, 1:30pm & 2:30pm Mon-Fri). All of these tours show you around soundstages and backlots (outdoor sets), and inside wardrobe and make-up departments. Reservations are required (minimum-age requirements apply); bring photo ID.

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a 1908 masterpiece of arts-and-crafts architecture built by Charles and Henry Greene for Procter & Gamble–heir David Gamble. The entire home is a work of art, its foundation, furniture and fixtures all united by a common design and theme inspired by its Southern California environs.

LOS ANGELES FOR CHILDREN

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Keeping kids happy is child’s play in LA. The sprawling Los Angeles Zoo (p72) in family-friendly Griffith Park (p71) is a sure bet. Dino-fans will dig the La Brea Tar Pits (p72) and the Natural History Museum (p69), while budding scientists crowd the Griffith Observatory (p71) and California Science Center (p70). For under-the-sea creatures, head to the Aquarium of the Pacific (p75) in Long Beach. The amusement park at Santa Monica Pier (p73) is fun for all ages. Activities for younger kids are more limited at tween/teen-oriented Universal Studios Hollywood (p72). In neighboring Orange County, Disneyland (p86) and Knott’s Berry Farm (p87) are ever-popular theme parks.

4 Sleeping For seaside life, base yourself in Santa Monica, Venice or Long Beach. Cool-hunters and party people will be happiest in Hollywood or WeHo; culture-vultures, in Downtown LA. Prices do not include lodging taxes (12% to 14%).

4 Downtown Ace Hotel HOTEL $$$ (Map p68; % 213-623-3233; www.acehotel. com/losangeles; 929 S Broadway Ave; r/ste from $250/400) Either lovingly cool, a bit too hip or

a touch self-conscious depending upon your purview, there is no denying that Downtown’s newest hotel opened to universal acclaim. And the minds behind it care deeply about their product. Some rooms are cubby-box small, but the ‘medium’ rooms are doable.

4 Hollywood branded tour imagined by the papparazzi made famous. Tours are two hours long, and you will likely meet some of the TMZ stars and perhaps even celebrity guests on the bus!

z Festivals & Events Monthly street fairs for art-gallery-hopping, shopping and food truck meet-ups include Downtown Art Walk (Map p68; www.downtownartwalk.org; h noon-9pm 2nd Thu of month) F and Venice’s First Friday (www.abbotkinney1stfridays.com) events.

Rose Parade PARADE (www.tournamentofroses.com; h Jan) This cav-

alcade of flower-festooned floats snakes through Pasadena on New Year’s Day. Get close-ups during postparade viewing at Victory Park. Avoid traffic and take the Metro Rail Gold Line to Memorial Park. Academy Awards FILM (www.oscars.org; h Feb-Mar) Ogle your favorite

USA Hostels Hollywood HOSTEL $ (Map p71; % 323-462-3777; www.usahostels.com; 1624 Schrader Blvd; dm $30-40, r without bath $81104; aiW ) This sociable hostel puts you

within steps of the Hollywood party circuit. Private rooms are a bit cramped, but making new friends is easy during staff-organized barbecues, comedy nights and $25 allyou-can-drink limo tours. Freebies include a cook-your-own-pancake breakfast. It has cushy lounge seating on the front porch and free beach shuttles too. Vibe Hotel HOSTEL $ (Map p71; % 323-469-8600; www.vibehotel. com; 5920 Hollywood Blvd; dm $22-25, r $85-95; p i W ) A funky motel turned hostel with

both coed and female-only dorms, each with a flat-screen TV and kitchenette, and several recently redone private rooms that sleep three. You’ll share space with a happening international crowd.

HOTEL $$ film stars from the Dolby Theatre’s red- Magic Castle Hotel carpet-adjacent bleachers. Apply in Septem- (Map p71; % 323-851-0800; http://magiccastlehober for one of 600 lucky spots. Held in late tel.com; 7025 Franklin Ave; r from $174; paiW s c ) Walls at this perennial pleaser are a February or early March. bit thin, but otherwise it’s a charming base West Hollywood of operations with large, modern rooms, exHalloween Carnaval CARNIVAL ceptional staff and a petite courtyard pool (www.visitwesthollywood.com; h Oct) This ram- where days start with fresh pastries and bunctious street fair brings 350,000 revelers – gourmet coffee. Enquire about access to the many in over-the-top and/or X-rated cos- Magic Castle, a fabled members-only magic tumes – out for a day of dancing, dishing club in an adjacent Victorian mansion. Parkand dating on Halloween. ing costs $11.

www.ebook3000.com

4 West Hollywood & Mid-City Pali Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (Map p74; % 323-272-4588; www.pali-hotel.com; 7950 Melrose Ave; r from $179; p i W ) We

Farmer’s Daughter Hotel MOTEL $$ (Map p74; % 323-937-3930; www.farmersdaughterhotel.com; 115 S Fairfax Ave; r from $209; paiWs ) Denim bedspreads and rocking chairs

lend this flirty motel a farmhouse vibe. Long before the renovation, a young Charlize Theron stayed here with mom when they were hunting for a Hollywood career. Adventurous lovers should ask about the No Tell Room, which has mirrored headboards and another mirror on the ceiling.

4 Beverly Hills Beverly Terrace Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p74; % 310-274-8141; www.hotelbeverlyterrace. com; 469 N Doheny Dr; r from $199; pW ) This

older, but high-value, Euro-style property dances on the border with West Hollywood and puts you close to the Santa Monica Blvd fun zone. Rooms aren’t huge but are decorated in Mid-Century Modern style with soothing greens, crisp blues and bright reds. The rooftop sundeck is blessed with beautiful views of the Hollywood Hills. Parking is $12.

Sea Shore Motel MOTEL $$ (Map p76; % 310-392-2787; www.seashoremotel. com; 2637 Main St; r from $140; paW ) These

friendly, family-run lodgings put you just a Frisbee toss from the beach on happening Main St (expect some street noise). The tiled rooms are basic, but families can stretch out comfortably in the modern suites with kitchen and balcony in a nearby building. Shore Hotel HOTEL $$$ (Map p76; % 310-458-1515; www.shorehotel.com; 1515 Ocean Ave; r from $309) S Massive and

modern with clean lines, this is one of the newest hotels on Ocean Ave, and the only gold LEED-certified hotel in Santa Monica, which means it has a reasonably light footprint. Case in point: the lovely back garden is seeded with drought-tolerant plants. The wood-and-glass rooms each have private terraces.

4 Long Beach Dockside Boat & Bed B&B $$ (% 562-436-3111; www.boatandbed.com; Rainbow Harbor, Dock 5, 330 S Pine Ave; r from $175; p W ) Get rocked to sleep by the waves

aboard your own private yacht with retro ’70s charm, galley kitchen and high-tech entertainment center. Boats are moored right along the newly expanded waterfront fun zone in downtown Long Beach, so expect oMr C HOTEL $$$ (Map p74; % 877-334-5623; www.mrchotels. some noise. Breakfast is delivered to your com; 1224 Beverwil Dr; r from $320) This long- vessel. standing tower hotel has been redesigned by the Cipriani brothers, who have been so 4 Pasadena involved in their passion project, they’ve deB&B $$ signed everything down to the furniture in oBissell House B&B the rooms. Rooms on even floors offer white (% 626-441-3535; www.bissellhouse.com; 201 S decor, odd floors are brown, and both varie- Orange Grove Ave, South Pasadena; r $159-259; ties include marble baths, leather sofas and p W s ) Antiques, hardwood floors and a lounges. North-facing rooms have spectacu- crackling fireplace make this secluded Victorian B&B on ‘Millionaire’s Row’ a bastion lar views. of warmth and romance. The hedge-framed garden feels like a sanctuary, and there’s a 4 Santa Monica pool for cooling off on hot summer days. The Prince Albert room has gorgeous wallpaper HI Los Angeles-Santa Monica HOSTEL $ (Map p76; % 310-393-9913; www.hilosangeles.org; and a claw-foot tub. All seven rooms have 1436 2nd St; dm $38-49, r without bath $99-159; private baths. aiW ) Near the beach and Promenade, this hostel has an enviable location on the

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love the rustic wood-panelled exterior, the polished- concrete floor in the lobby, the Thai massage spa (just $35 for 30 minutes), and the 32 contemporary rooms with twotone paint jobs, wall-mounted, flat-screen TV, and enough room for a sofa. Some have terraces. Terrific all-around value.

cheap. Its 200 beds in single-sex dorms and bed-in-a-box doubles with shared bathrooms are clean and safe, and there are plenty of public spaces to lounge and surf, but those looking to party are better off in Venice or Hollywood.

5 Eating

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With some 140 nationalities living in LA, ethnic neighborhoods for foodies to explore abound, including Downtown LA’s Little Tokyo and Chinatown; Mid-City’s Koreatown; Thai Town, east of Hollywood; East LA’s Boyle Heights for Mexican flavors; and the Westside’s Little Osaka for Japanese kitchens.

tion, location, location…is definitely not what lures people to this parking-lot snack shack. It’s the tacos! And the tortas, burritos and other Mexican faves that earned the Herrera family the coveted James Beard Award in 2005. Life Food Organic RAW $ (Map p71; www.lifefoodorganic.com; 1507 N Cahuenga Ave; dishes $4-14; h 7:30am-9pm) S

For cheap, fast meals-on-the-go, graze the international food stalls of the historic

This place serves the healthiest fast food around. Have a chocolate shake made with almond milk, a veggie chili burger with a sesame seaweed salad on the side and a chocolate cream pie for dessert. None of it cooked! You can dine in, but most take it away.

Cole’s SANDWICHES $ (Map p68; www.213nightlife.com/colesfrenchdip; 118 E 6th St; sandwiches $6-9; h 11am-10pm SunWed, to midnight Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) A funky

Pizzeria & Osteria Mozza ITALIAN $$$ (% 323-297-0100; www.mozza-la.com; 6602 Melrose Ave; pizzas $11-19, dinner mains $27-38; h pizzeria noon-midnight daily, osteria 5:30-11pm Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sat, 5-10pm Sun) Osteria Moz-

5 Downtown Grand Central Market (Map p68; www.grandcentralmarket.com; 317 S Broadway; h 8am-6pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat).

old basement tavern known for originating the French Dip sandwich way back in 1908, when those things cost a nickel. You know the drill: French bread piled with sliced lamb, beef, turkey, pork or pastrami, dipped once or twice in au jus. Sushi Gen JAPANESE $$ (Map p68; % 213-617-0552; www.sushigen.org; 422 E 2nd St; sushi $11-21; h 11:15am-2pm & 5:30-9:45pm) Come early to grab a table, and

know that it doesn’t do the ubercreative ‘look at me’ kind of rolls. In this Japanese classic sushi spot, seven chefs stand behind the blonde wood bar, carving thick slabs of melt-in-your-mouth salmon, buttery toro and a wonderful Japanese snapper, among other staples. Their sashimi special at lunch ($18) is a steal.

oBestia

ITALIAN $$$

(% 213-514-5724; http://bestiala.com; 2121 7th Pl; dishes $10-29; h 5-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) The most sought-after reservation in

za is all about fine cuisine crafted from market- fresh, seasonal ingredients; but being a Mario Batali joint, you can expect adventure (squid-ink chitarra freddi with Dungeness crab, sea urchin and jalapeno) and consistent excellence. Reservations are recommended.

5 West Hollywood & Mid-City Original Farmers Market MARKET $ (Map p74; www.farmersmarketla.com; 6333 W 3rd St; mains $6-12; h 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; p c ) The Farmers Market is a

great spot for a casual meal any time of day, especially if the rug rats are tagging along. There are lots of options here, from gumbo to Singapore-style noodles to tacos.

Pingtung ASIAN $ (Map p74; % 323-866-1866; www.pingtungla.com; 7455 Melrose Ave; dishes $6-12; h 11:30am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; W ) Our new favorite

town can be found at this new and splashy Italian kitchen in the Arts District. The antipasti ranges from crispy lamb pancetta to sea urchin crudo to veal tartare crostino. Did we mention the lamb’s heart? Yeah, you may have to leave the vegan at home.

place to eat on Melrose is this Pan-Asian market cafe where the dim sum (wild crab dumplings), seaweed and green papaya salads, and rice bowls piled with curried chicken and BBQ beef are all worthy of praise. It has an inviting back patio with ample seating, wi-fi and good beer on tap.

5 Hollywood & Griffith Park

oMercado

oYuca’s

MEXICAN $

(% 323-662-1214; www.yucasla.com; 2056 Hillhurst Ave; items $4-10; h 11am-6pm Mon-Sat) Loca-

MEXICAN $$

(Map p74; % 323-944-0947; www.mercadorestaurant.com; 7910 W 3rd St; dishes $9-26; h 5-10pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu & Fri, 11am-3pm & 4-11pm Sat, 11am-3pm & 4-10pm Sun) Terrific nuovo-

Nate ̓n Al DELI $$ (Map p74; % 310-274-0101; www.natenal.com; 414 N Beverly Dr; dishes $7-13; h 7am-9pm; c ) Dap-

per seniors, chatty girlfriends, busy execs and even Larry King have kept this New York–style nosh spot busy since 1945. The huge menu brims with corned beef, lox and other old-school favorites, but we’re partial to the pastrami, made fresh on-site.

5 Santa Monica & Venice Lemonade CALIFORNIAN $ (http://lemonadela.com; 1661 Abbot Kinney Blvd; meals $8-13; h 11am-9pm) The first incarna-

tion of an imaginative, local market cafe with a lineup of tasty salads (watermelon radish and chili or tamarind pork and spicy carrots), and stockpots bubbling with lamb and stewed figs or miso-braised short ribs. It has six kinds of lemonade augmented with blueberries and mint or watermelon and rosemary. Yummy sweets too. Abbot’s Pizza Company PIZZA $ (Map p76; % 310-396-7334; www.abbotspizzaco. com; 1407 Abbot Kinney Blvd; slices $3-5, pizzas $12-29; h 11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; c ) Join the flip-flop crowd at this shoe-

box-sized pizza kitchen for habit-forming bagel-crust pies tastily decorated with tequila-lime chicken, portobello mushrooms, goat’s cheese and other gourmet morsels served up at tummy-grumbling speed. Father’s Office PUB FOOD $$ (% 310-736-2224; www.fathersoffice.com; 1018 Montana Ave; dishes $5-15; h 5-10pm Mon-Wed, 5-11pm Thu, 4-11pm Fri, noon-11pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun) This elbow-to-elbow gastropub is fa-

mous for its burger: a dry-aged-beef number dressed in smoky bacon, sweet caramelized onion and an ingenious combo of Gruyère and blue cheese. Pair it with fries served in a mini shopping cart and a mug of handcrafted brew chosen from the three dozen on tap. No substitutions tolerated.

5 Long Beach Pier 76 SEAFOOD $$ (% 562-983-1776; www.pier76fishgrill.com; 95 Pine Ave; mains $8-19; h 11am-9pm) A terrif-

ic, affordable seafood house in downtown Long Beach. Step to the counter and order yellowtail, salmon, trout, mahimahi or halibut glazed and grilled, and served with two sides. The fries and kale salad are both good. It has fish tacos, sandwiches, poke and ceviche, too. It even has a $19 lobster.

5 Pasadena Ración SPANISH $$$ (% 626-396-3090; www.racionrestaurant.com; 119 W Green St; dishes $5-45; h 6-10pm Mon, 11:30am3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 5:30-10pm Sun) This Basque-inspired restaurant offers

tapas such as duck sausage, stuffed squid, beer-braised octopus and seared prawns in salsa verde. It house-cures yellowfin tuna in anchovy vinegrette, and offers raciones (larger plates) ranging from a wild market fish with heirloom beans to slow-braised lamb belly.

6 Drinking & Nightlife Hollywood has been legendary sipping territory since before the Rat Pack days. Creative cocktails are the order of the day at reinvented watering holes in Downtown LA and edgier neighborhoods. Beachside bars run the gamut from surfer dives to candlelit cocktail lounges. To confirm all your preconceived prejudices about LA, look no further than a velvet-roped nightclub in Hollywood. Come armed with a hot bod or a fat wallet to impress the bouncers.

oNo Vacancy

BAR

(Map p71; % 323-465-1902; www.novacancyla.com; 1727 N Hudson Ave; h 8pm-2am) An old, shin-

gled Victorian has been converted into LA’s hottest night out. Even the entrance is theatrical: you’ll follow a rickety staircase into a narrow hall and enter the room of a wouldbe madame, dressed in fishnet and brimming with hospitality, who will soon press a button to reveal another staircase down into the living room and out into a courtyard.

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Mexican food served in white-washed brick environs, with dangling bird-cage chandeliers and a terrific marble tequila bar. The slow-cooked carnitas (braised pork) melt in your mouth. It also spit-roasts beef, grills sweet corn, and folds tasty tacos and enchiladas. The hora feliz (happy hour) is among the best in the city.

82 Bar Marmont BAR (Map p74; % 323-650-0575; www.chateaumarmont.com/barmarmont.php‎; 8171 Sunset Blvd; h 6pm-2am) Elegant, but not stuck up; been

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around, yet still cherished. With high ceilings, molded walls and terrific martinis, the famous, and wish-they-weres, still flock here. If you time it right you might see Tom Yorke, or perhaps Lindsay Lohan? Come midweek. Weekends are for amateurs. Angel City Brewery BREWERY (Map p68; % 213-622-1261; www.angelcitybrewery. com; 216 S Alameda St; h 4-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu & Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-10pm Sun) This wonderful microbrewer of fine

beers and ales is the only one of its kind in Downtown LA. Located on the edge of the Arts District, it runs tours on weekends, but you can always stop by its Public House to drink beer, listen to occasional live music and patronize the food trucks that descend with welcome flavor. Copa d’Oro BAR (Map p76; www.copadoro.com; 217 Broadway; h 5:30pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)

The cocktail menu was created by the talented Vincenzo Marianella – a man who knows his spirits, and has trained his team to concoct addictive cocktails from a well of top-end spirits and a produce bin of fresh herbs, fruits, juices and a few veggies too. The rock tunes and the smooth, dark ambience don’t hurt.

Tiki-Ti BAR (% 323-669-9381; www.tiki-ti.com; 4427 W Sunset Blvd; h 4pm-2am Wed-Sat) This garage-sized

tropical tavern packs in grizzled old-timers and young cuties for sweet and wickedly strong drinks (try a Rae’s Mistake, named for the bar’s founder). The under-the-sea decor is surreal. Cash only. Townhouse & Delmonte Speakeasy BAR (Map p76; www.townhousevenice.com; 52 Windward Ave; h 5pm-2am Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri-Sun)

Upstairs is a cool, dark and perfectly dingy bar with pool tables, booths and good booze. Downstairs is the speakeasy, where DJs spin pop, funk and electronic music, comics take the mic, and jazz players set up and jam. It’s a reliably good time almost any night. Musso & Frank Grill BAR (Map p71; www.mussoandfrankgrill.com; 6667 Hollywood Blvd) Hollywood history hangs in

the thick air at Musso & Frank Grill, Tinseltown’s oldest eatery (since 1919). Charlie Chaplin used to knock back vodka gimlets at the bar and Raymond Chandler penned scripts in the high-backed booths.

3 Entertainment For discounted and half-price tickets, check Goldstar (www.goldstar.com) or LA Stage Tix (www.lastagetix.com), the latter strictly for theater.

GAY & LESBIAN LA ’Boystown,’ along Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood (WeHo), is gay ground zero, where dozens of high-energy bars, cafes, restaurants, gyms and clubs are found. The diverse crowd in Silver Lake is all-inclusive, from leather-and-Levi’s bars to hipster haunts. Venice and Long Beach have neighborly scenes.

Out & About (www.outandabout-tours.com) Leads weekend walking tours of the city’s lesbi-gay cultural landmarks. The festival season kicks off in May with Long Beach Pride (http://longbeachpride.com) and continues with WeHo’s LA Pride (http://lapride. org) in June. Abbey (Map p74; www.abbeyfoodandbar.com; 692 N Robertson Blvd; mains $9-13; h 11am-2am MonThu, from 10am Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun) At WeHo’s definitive gay bar and restaurant, take your pick of preening on an outdoor patio, in a chill lounge or on the dance floor, and enjoy flavored martinis. A dozen other bars and nightclubs are a short stumble away. Micky’s (Map p74; www.mickys.com; 8857 Santa Monica Blvd; h 5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat) A two-story, quintessential WeHo dance club, with go-go boys, expensive drinks, attitude and plenty of eye candy. Check online for special events. Akbar (www.akbarsilverlake.com; 4356 W Sunset Blvd; h 4pm-2am) Killer jukebox, casbah-style atmosphere and a Silver Lake crowd that’s been known to change from hour to hour – gay, straight or just hip, but not too-hip-for-you.

oHollywood Bowl

CONCERT VENUE

(% 323-850-2000; www.hollywoodbowl.com; 2301 N Highland Ave; rehearsals free, performance costs vary; h Jun-Sep) Summers in LA just wouldn’t

oUpright Citizens

Brigade Theatre COMEDY (Map p71; % 323-908-8702; http://franklin.ucbtheatre.com; 5919 Franklin Ave; tickets $5-10)

Founded in New York by Saturday Night Life alums Amy Poehler and Ian Roberts along with Matt Besser and Matt Walsh, this sketch-comedy group cloned itself in Hollywood in 2005 and is arguably the best improv theater in town.

Dodger Stadium BASEBALL (% 866-363-4377; www.dodgers.com; 1000 Elysian Park Ave; h Apr-Sep) Few clubs can match the

El Rey LIVE MUSIC (Map p74; www.theelrey.com; 5515 Wilshire Blvd; cover varies) An old art-deco dance hall

decked out in red velvet and chandeliers and flaunting an awesome sound system and excellent sightlines. Although it can hold 800 people, it feels quite small. Performance-wise, it’s popular with indie acts such as Black Joe Lewis and the Honeybears, and the rockers who love them. American Cinematheque CINEMA (Map p71; www.americancinematheque.com; 6712 Hollywood Blvd; adult/senior & student $11/9) A

nonprofit screening tributes, retrospectives and foreign films in the Egyptian Theatre

Dodgers when it comes to history (Jackie Robinson, Sandy Koufax, Kirk Gibson, and Vin Scully), success and fan loyalty. The club’s newest owners bought the organization for roughly two billion dollars, an American team-sports record.

(Map p71; www.egyptiantheatre.com; 6712 Hollywood Blvd). Directors, screenwriters and ac-

Staples Center BASKETBALL (Map p68; % 213-742-7340; www.staplescenter. com; 1111 S Figueroa St; c ) The LA Lakers (% 213-742-7340; www.nba.com/lakers; tickets $50-250) were down on their luck as of this

cast as a 300-seat theater, thanks to a major cash infusion from the Douglas family. Since its opening in 2004, it has become an integral part of Culver City’s growing arts scene. It’s primarily a showcase for terrific new plays by local playwrights.

writing, but the NBA’s most successful organization still packs all 19,000 seats on a regular basis. Floor seats, like those filled by the ubiquitous Jack Nicholson, cost in excess of $5000 per game. Largo at the Coronet LIVE MUSIC, PERFORMING ARTS (Map p74; % 310-855-0530; www.largo-la.com; 366 N La Cienega Blvd) Ever since its early days

on Fairfax Ave, Largo has been progenitor of high-minded pop culture (it nurtured Zach Galifinakis to stardom). Now part of the Coronet Theatre complex, it features edgy comedy, such as Sarah Silverman and Jon Hodgman, and nourishing night music from Brad Meldau and his jazz piano to Andrew Bird’s acoustic ballads. Arclight Cinemas CINEMA (Map p71; % 323-464-1478; www.arclightcinemas.com; 6360 W Sunset Blvd; tickets $14-16)

tors often swing by for postshow Q&As.

Kirk Douglas Theatre THEATER (www.centertheatergroup.org; 9820 Washington Blvd) An old-timey movie house has been re-

oEcho

LIVE MUSIC

(www.attheecho.com; 1822 W Sunset Blvd; cover varies) Eastsiders hungry for an eclectic al-

chemy of sounds pack this funky-town dive that’s basically a sweaty bar with a stage and a smoking patio. It books indie bands, and also has regular club nights. Its Funky Sole party every Saturday is always a blast.

7 Shopping Although Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive is the most iconic shopping strip in LA, the city abounds with other options for retail therapy. Fashionistas and their paparazzi piranhas flock to Mid-City’s Robertson Blvd. You also might spot celebs shopping on nearby 3rd St. Unusual and unique local boutiques line Main St in Santa Monica, Venice’s Abbot Kinney Blvd and Sunset Blvd in Silver Lake.

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be the same without this chill spot for music under the stars, from symphonies to bigname acts such as Baaba Maal, Sigur Ros, Radiohead and Paul McCartney. A huge natural amphitheater, the Hollywood Bowl has been around since 1922 and has great sound.

Assigned seats and exceptional celeb-sighting potential make this 14-screen multiplex the best around. If your taste dovetails with its schedule, the awesome 1963 geodesic Cinerama Dome is a must. Bonuses: age 21plus screenings where you can booze it up, and Q&As with directors, writers and actors. Parking is $3 for four hours.

84 Fashion District FASHION (Map p68; www.fashiondistrict.org) Fashion Insti-

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tute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM) graduates often go on to launch their own brands or work for established labels in this 90-block nirvana for shopaholics. Bounded by Main and Wall Sts and 7th St and Pico Blvd, the district’s prices are lowest in bazaar-like Santee Alley, but the styles are grooviest in the Gerry Building and Cooper Design Space. Melrose Avenue FASHION (Map p74; Melrose Ave) A popular shopping

strip as famous for its epic people-watching as it is for its consumer fruits. You’ll see hair (and people) of all shades and styles, and everything from gothic jewels to custom sneakers to medical marijuana to stuffed porcupines available for a price. The strip is located between Fairfax and La Brea Aves. Fred Segal FASHION (Map p74; % 323-651-4129; www.fredsegal.com; 8100 Melrose Ave; h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon6pm Sun) Celebs and beautiful people circle

for the very latest from Babakul, Aviator Nation and Robbi & Nikki at this warren of high-end boutiques under one impossibly chic but slightly snooty roof. The only time you’ll see bargains (sort of) is during the two-week blowout sale in September. It’s a Wrap! VINTAGE (www.itsawraphollywood.com; 3315 W Magnolia Blvd, Burbank; h 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) Here are fashionable, postproduc-

tion wares worn by TV and film stars. What that means to you is great prices on mainstream designer labels, including racks of casual and formal gear worn on such shows as Nurse Jackie and Scandal. The suits are a steal, and so is the denim. New arrivals are racked by show affiliation. Raggedy Threads VINTAGE (Map p68; % 213-620-1188; www.raggedythreads. com; 330 E 2nd St; h noon-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) A tremendous vintage Americana store

just off the main Little Tokyo strip. There’s plenty of beautifully raggedy denim and overalls, soft T-shirts, a few Victorian dresses, and a wonderful turquoise collection at great prices. She also collects sensational glasses frames and watches. Rose Bowl Flea Market MARKET (www.rgcshows.com; 1001 Rose Bowl Dr, Pasadena; admission from $8; h 9am-4:30pm 2nd Sun each month, last entry 3pm) California’s Marketplace

of Unusual Items descends upon the Rose Bowl football field bringing forth the rummaging hordes. There are over 2500 vendors and 15,000 buyers here every month, and it’s always a great time.

88 Information DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Crime rates are lowest in West LA, Beverly Hills, beach towns (except Venice and Long Beach) and Pasadena. Avoid walking alone and after dark around Downtown’s ‘Skid Row,’ roughly bounded by 3rd, Alameda, 7th and Main Sts. MEDIA KCRW 89.9 FM (www.kcrw.org) Santa Monica– based National Public Radio (NPR) station for eclectic and indie music and intelligent talk. LA Weekly (www.laweekly.com) Free alternative news, live music and entertainment listings newspaper. Los Angeles Magazine (www.lamag.com) Glossy lifestyle monthly with a useful restaurant and bar guide. Los Angeles Times (www.latimes.com) California’s leading daily newspaper, winner of dozens of Pulitzer Prizes. MEDICAL SERVICES Cedars-Sinai Medical Center (% 310-4233277; http://cedars-sinai.edu; 8700 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood; h 24hr) 24-hour emergency room. MONEY Travelex (% 310-659-6093; www.travelex. com; US Bank, 8901 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood; h 9:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri, to 1pm Sat) Travelex (% 310-260-9219; www.travelex. com; 201 Santa Monica Blvd, Suite 101, Santa Monica; h 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri) TELEPHONE LA County is covered by multiple area codes. Dial % 1+(area code) before all local seven-digit numbers. TOURIST INFORMATION Downtown LA Visitor Center (Map p68; www. discoverlosangeles.com; 800 N Alameda St, Downtown; h 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Hollywood Visitor Information Center (Map p71; % 323-467-6412; http://discoverlosangeles.com; Hollywood & Highland complex, 6801 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood; h 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) In the Dolby Theatre walkway. Santa Monica Visitor Information Center (Map p76; % 800-544-5319; www.santamonica.com; 2427 Main St, Santa Monica) Roving

85 information officers patrol the promenade on Segways.

88 Getting There & Away AIR LA’s gateway hub is Los Angeles International Airport (www.lawa.org/lax; 1 World Way), the USA’s second-busiest airport. Its nine terminals are linked on the lower (arrivals) level by free shuttle bus A. Hotel and car-rental shuttles stop there as well. Smaller Long Beach Airport (www.lgb.org; 4100 Donald Douglas Dr, Long Beach) and Burbank’s Bob Hope Airport (www.burbankairport. com; 2627 N Hollywood Way, Burbank) handle mostly domestic flights. BUS Greyhound’s main bus terminal (% 213-6298401; www.greyhound.com; 1716 E 7th St) is in an unsavory part of Downtown LA, so avoid arriving after dark. CAR The usual international car-rental agencies have branches at LAX airport and throughout LA. TRAIN Long-distance Amtrak trains roll into Downtown LA’s historic Union Station (% 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 800 N Alameda St). Pacific Surfliner regional trains run south to San Diego ($37, 2¾ hours) and north to Santa Barbara ($31, 2¾ hours) and San Luis Obispo ($41, 5½ hours).

88 Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Door-to-door shuttles, such as those operated by Prime Time (% 800-733-8267; www.primetimeshuttle.com) and Super Shuttle (% 800258-3826; www.supershuttle.com), leave from the lower level of LAX terminals. Destinations include Santa Monica ($21), Hollywood ($27) and Downtown LA ($16). Curbside dispatchers summon taxis at LAX. A flat fare applies to Downtown LA ($46.50). Otherwise, metered fares (including $4 airport surcharge) average $30 to $35 to Santa Monica or $50 to Hollywood, excluding tip. LAX FlyAway Buses (% 866-435-9529; www. lawa.org/FlyAway; one-way $8) depart hourly for Santa Monica ($8, 40 minutes) or Hollywood

CAR & MOTORCYCLE Driving in LA doesn’t need to be a hassle, but be prepared for some of the worst traffic in the country during weekday rush hours (roughly 7am to 10am and 3pm to 7pm). Self-parking at motels is usually free; most hotels charge from $10 to $40. Valet parking at restaurants, hotels and nightspots is common, with average rates of $5 to $10. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION If you’re not in a hurry, public transportation suffices around – but not necessarily between – LA’s most touristed neighborhoods. Online trip-planning help is available from LA’s Metro (% 323-466-3876; www.metro.net), which operates 200 bus lines and the following six subway and light-rail lines: Blue Line Downtown (7th St/Metro Center) to Long Beach. Expo Line Downtown (7th St/Metro Center) to Culver City (and Santa Monica from early 2016), via Exposition Park. Gold Line East LA to Pasadena via Little Tokyo, Union Station and Chinatown. Green Line Norwalk to Redondo Beach via Aviation Station. Purple Line Downtown LA (Union Station) to Koreatown. Red Line Downtown LA (Union Station) to North Hollywood, via Hollywood and Universal City. Metro train or bus fares are $1.75 upon boarding; for buses, bring cash (exact change). Metro ‘TAP card’ unlimited-ride passes cost $7/25 per day/week. Purchase TAP cards at ticket-vending machines inside Metro Rail stations. Day passes are also sold on board buses. Local DASH minbuses (% 213-808-2273, 323-808-2273; www.ladottransit.com; per ride 50¢; h info line 6:30am-7pm) run around Downtown LA, Hollywood and other neighborhoods; schedules vary, with reduced weekend services. Big Blue Bus (% 310-451-5444; www.bigbluebus.com; fares from $1) covers much of West LA, including Santa Monica, Venice, Westwood, Culver City and LAX; Rapid 10 Express connects Santa Monica with Downtown LA ($2, 45 minutes to 1¾ hours).

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USEFUL WEBSITES Discover Los Angeles (http://discoverlosangeles.com) Official tourism site. Experience LA (www.experiencela.com) Comprehensive cultural events calendar. LAist (http://laist.com) Arts, entertainment, food and pop-culture gossip.

($8, 60 to 90 minutes) from early morning until late night, and every 30 minutes around the clock to Downtown LA’s Union Station ($8, 35 minutes). Other public transportation is slower and less convenient but cheaper. From the lower level outside any LAX terminal, catch free shuttle bus C to the Metro Bus Center, a hub for buses serving all of LA; or take free shuttle bus G to lightrail Aviation Station on the Metro Green Line.

86 TAXI Because of LA’s size and heavy traffic, getting around by cab will cost you. Metered taxis charge $2.85 at flagfall, then $2.70 per mile. Except for taxis lined up outside airports, train stations and major hotels, it’s best to phone for a cab.

Ca li fo rnia D S iouth isn g hts e yland e& rnA ctiviti C& alifornia A nah e se im C oast

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST Disneyland & Anaheim

Disney California Adventure THEME PARK (DCA; % 714-781-4400, 714-781-4565; www.disneyland.com; 1313 Harbor Blvd, Anaheim; adult/child $99/93, 1-day pass to both parks $155/149; c )

Disneyland resort’s larger but less crowded park, Disney California Adventure celebrates the natural and cultural glories of the Golden State but lacks the density of attractions and depth of imagination. The best rides are Soarin’ Over California, a virtual hang glide, and the famous Twilight Zone Tower of Terror that drops you 183ft down an elevator chute.

4 Sleeping

The mother of all West Coast theme parks, aka the ‘Happiest Place on Earth,’ Disneyland is a parallel world that’s squeaky-clean, enchanting and wacky all at once. It’s an ‘imagineered’ hyper-reality where the employees – called ‘cast members’ – are always upbeat and there are parades every day of the year. More than 16 million kids, grandparents, honeymooners and international tourists stream through the front gates annually. Disneyland opened to great fanfare in 1955 and the workaday city of Anaheim grew up around it. Today the Disneyland Resort comprises the original Disneyland Park and newer Disney California Adventure theme park. Anaheim itself doesn’t have much in the way of attractions outside the Disney juggernaut.

Chain motels and hotels are a dime a dozen in Anaheim.

1 Sights & Activities

Formerly three separate motels, this 7-acre complex has the feel of a laid-back country club, complete with trams that carry guests effortlessly from the lobby to their buildings. Large rooms have wooden floors and a whisper of Spanish Colonial style, with extras like minifridges and TV entertainment systems. Bunk-bedded kids’ suites have Disney- inspired decor.

Going on all the rides at both theme parks requires at least two days, as queues for top attractions can be an hour or more. To minimize wait times, arrive midweek (especially during summer) before the gates open, buy print-at-home tickets online and take advantage of the parks’ Fastpass system, which preassigns boarding times at select rides and attractions. For seasonal park hours and schedules of parades, shows and fireworks, check the official website. Disneyland Park THEME PARK (% 714-781-4565; http://disneyland.disney.go.com; 1313 Disneyland Dr; adult/child $99/93, 1-day pass to both parks $155/149; c ) Spotless, whole-

some Disneyland is still laid out according to Walt’s original plans. It’s here you’ll find plenty of rides and some of the attractions most asscociated with the Disney name: Main Street, U.SA, Sleeping Beauty Castle, Tomorrowland.

HI Fullerton HOSTEL $ (% 714-738-3721; www.hihostels.com; 1700 N Harbor Blvd, Fullerton; dm $26-29, r per person $52-56; h mid-Jun–mid-Sep; p nai W ) On a former

dairy farm in Brea Dam State Park, 6 miles north of Disneyland, this two-story hacienda houses 20 beds in three dorm types (male, female, mixed), and the usual youth-hostel amenities. Rates include continental breakfast and parking. By bus from Disneyland, walk to Harbor Blvd and Ball Rd to catch OCTA bus 43 ($2, 30 minutes).

oAnabella

HOTEL $$

(% 714-905-1050; www.anabellahotel.com; 1030 W Katella Ave; r $89-199, ste $109-199; pi W sc )

Alpine Inn MOTEL $$ (% 714-535-2186; www.alpineinnanaheim.com; 715 W Katella Ave; r $60-190; pn ai W sc )

Connoisseurs of kitsch will hug their Hummels over this 42-room, snow-covered chalet sporting an A-frame exterior and icicle-covered roofs – framed by palm trees, of course. Right on the border of DCA, the inn also has Ferris-wheel views. It’s circa 1958, and air-con rooms are aging but clean. Simple continental breakfast (included) served in the lobby.

87 Paradise Pier Hotel HOTEL $$$ (% info 714-999-0990, reservations 714-956-6425; http://disneyland.disney.go.com/paradise-pierhotel; 1717 S Disneyland Dr; d from $240; p a iWsc ) Sunbursts, surfboards and a giant

5 Eating & Drinking There are dozens of dining options inside the theme parks. Hit the walk-up food stands for carnival treats like giant turkey legs and sugar-dusted churros. For table reservations and meals with Disney characters, call Disney Dining (% 714-781-3463; http:// disneyland.disney.go.com/dining). No alcohol is allowed inside Disneyland Park; it’s sold at DCA and Downtown Disney. Budget-conscious visitors and families with kids can store their own food and drinks (no glass) in the lockers (per day $7 to $15) along Disneyland’s Main Street, USA, DCA’s Buena Vista Street and outside both parks’ main entrance. An open-air pedestrian mall adjacent to the parks, Downtown Disney has mostly generic, yet family-friendly chain restaurants. The same is true of Anaheim GardenWalk (www.anaheimgardenwalk.com; 400 W Disney Way; h11am-9pm), an outdoor mall just east of the parks. If you want to steer clear of Mickey Mouse food, drive to the Anaheim Packing District (3 miles northeast), Old Towne Orange (7 miles southeast), Little Arabia (3 miles west) or Little Saigon (8 miles southwest). Earl of Sandwich SANDWICHES $ (% 714-817-7476; Downtown Disney; mains $4-7; h 8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) This

counter-service spot near the Disneyland Hotel serves grilled sandwiches that are both kid- and adult-friendly. The ‘original 1762’ is roast beef, cheddar and horseradish, or look for chipotle chicken with avocado or holiday turkey. There are also pizza, salad and breakfast options. Café Orleans CAJUN, CREOLE $$ (New Orleans Sq; mains $16-20; h seasonal hours vary; c ) This Southern-flavored restaurant

is famous for its Monte Cristo sandwiches at lunch. Breakfast is served seasonally.

What, Disney’s not enough for you? Find even more thrill rides and cotton candy at Knott’s Berry Farm (% 714-2205200; www.knotts.com; 8039 Beach Blvd, Buena Park; adult/child $67/37; h from 10am, closing time varies 6-11pm; c ). This Old West–themed amusement park teems with packs of speed-crazed adolescents testing their mettle on a line-up of rides. Gut-wrenchers include the Boomerang ‘scream machine,’ wooden GhostRider and 1950s-themed Xcelerator, while younger kids will enjoy tamer action at Camp Snoopy. From late September through October, the park transforms at night into Halloween-themed ‘Knott’s Scary Farm.’ When summer heat waves hit, jump next door to Soak City Orange County (% 714-220-5200; www.soakcityoc.com; 8039 Beach Blvd, Buena Park; adult/child 3-11yr $38/27; h 10am-5pm, 6pm or 7pm mid-May–mid-Sep) water park. Save time and money by buying print-at-home tickets for either park online. Parking is $15.

oCarthay Circle

AMERICAN $$$

(Buena Vista St; mains lunch $24-32, dinner $34-47; h lunch & dinner) Decked out like a Hollywood

country club, new Carthay Circle is the best dining in either park, with steaks, seafood, pasta, smart service and a good wine list. Your table needs at least one order of fried biscuits, stuffed with white cheddar, bacon and jalapeño and served with apricot honey butter. Inquire about special packages including dinner and the World of Color show.

Napa Rose CALIFORNIAN $$$ (% 714-300-7170; Grand Californian Hotel & Spa; mains $39-45, 4-course prix-fixe dinner from $90; h 5:30-10pm; c ) Soaring windows, high-back

Arts and Crafts–style chairs, leaded-glass windows and towering ceilings befit the Disneyland Resort’s top-drawer restaurant. On the plate, seasonal ‘California Wine Country’ (read: NorCal) cuisine is as impeccably crafted as Sleeping Beauty Castle. Kids’ menu available. Reservations essential. Enter the hotel from DCA or Downtown Disney.

88 Information ATMs, foreign-currency exchange and medical services are available inside both parks.

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superslide are all on deck at the Paradise Pier Hotel, the smallest (472 rooms), cheapest and maybe the most fun of the Disney hotel trio. Kids will love the beachy decor and game arcade, not to mention the roof deck pool and the tiny-tot video room filled with mini Adirondack chairs.

KNOTT’S BERRY FARM

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Disneyland Resort (% live assistance 714781-7290, recorded info 714-781-4565; www. disneyland.com) MousePlanet (www.mouseplanet.com) A onestop fan site for all things Disney, with weekly park updates and discussion boards. MouseWait (www.mousewait.com) This free mobile app reports up-to-the-minute ride wait times and park news.

88 Getting There & Around Disneyland Resort is just off I-5 (Santa Ana Fwy), about 30 miles southeast of Downtown LA. Disneyland Resort Express (% 800-8286699; www.graylineanaheim.com; h 8am-8pm) buses travel between LAX (one way/round-trip $30/48) and Disneyland-area hotels; one child rides free with each paying adult. The Anaheim Regional Transportation Intermodal Center (ARTIC), next to Angel Stadium, is a quick bus or taxi ride east of Disneyland. Amtrak (% 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 2626 E Katella Ave) trains between LA’s Union Station ($15, 40 minutes) and San Diego ($28, 2¼ hours) arrive almost hourly. Metrolink (% 800-371-5465; www.metrolinktrains.com; 2626 E Katella Ave ) commuter trains from LA’s Union Station ($8.75, 50 minutes) stop at the same station. Anaheim Resort Transit (ART; % 888-3642787; www.rideart.org; adult/child fare $3/1, day pass $5/2) provides frequent bus service between Disneyland Resort and many area hotels and motels. Shuttles start running an hour before Disneyland opens, operating from 7am to midnight daily in summer. A free tram connects Disneyland Resort’s main parking structures (per day from $17) and Downtown Disney, a short walk from the parks.

Orange County Beaches

If you’ve seen The OC or Real Housewives, you might imagine you already know what to expect from this giant quilt of suburbia connecting LA and San Diego, lolling beside 42 miles of glorious coastline. In reality, Hummer-driving hunks and Botoxed beauties mix it up with hang-loose surfers and beatnik artists to give each of Orange County’s beach towns a distinct vibe. Just across the LA–OC county line, old-fashioned Seal Beach is refreshingly noncommercial, with a quaint walk able downtown. Less than 10 miles further south along the Pacific Coast Hwy (Hwy 1), Huntington Beach – aka ‘Surf City, USA’ –

epitomizes SoCal’s surfing lifestyle. Fish tacos and happy-hour specials abound at bars and cafes along downtown HB’s Main St, not far from a shortboard-sized surfing museum (www.surfingmuseum.org; 411 Olive Ave; donations welcome; h noon-5pm Wed-Fri & Sun, to 8pm Tue, to 7pm Sat).

Next up is the ritziest of the OC’s beach communities: yacht-filled Newport Beach. Families and teens steer toward Balboa Peninsula for its beaches, vintage wooden pier and quaint amusement center. From near the 1906 Balboa Pavilion, Balboa Island Ferry (www.balboaislandferry.com; 410 S Bay Front; adult/child $1/50¢, car incl driver $2; h 6:30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

shuttles across the bay to Balboa Island for strolls past historic beach cottages and boutiques along Marine Ave. Continuing south, Hwy 1 zooms past the wild beaches of Crystal Cove State Park

(% 949-494-3539; www.parks.ca.gov; 8471 N Coast Hwy; per car $15, campsites $25-75; h 6am- sunset) before winding downhill into Laguna Beach, the OC’s most cultured seaside

community. Secluded beaches, glassy waves and eucalyptus-covered hillsides create a Riviera-like feel. Art galleries dot the narrow streets of the ‘village’ and the coastal highway, where the Laguna Art Museum (% 949-494-8971; www.lagunaartmuseum.org; 307 Cliff Dr; adult/child/student & senior $7/free/5, 5-9pm 1st Thu of month free; h 11am-5pm Fri-Tue, to 9pm Thu) exhibits modern and contempo-

rary Californian works. Soak up the natural beauty right in the center of town at Main Beach. Another 10 miles south, detour inland to Mission San Juan Capistrano (% 949-2341300; www.missionsjc.com; 26801 Ortega Hwy, San Juan Capistrano; adult/child $9/6; h 9am-5pm),

one of California’s most beautifully restored Spanish Colonial missions, with flowering gardens, a fountain courtyard and the charming 1778 Serra Chapel.

4 Sleeping & Eating Oceanside motels and hotels along Pacific Coast Hwy (Hwy 1) charge surprisingly steep rates, especially on summer weekends. Dive inland near the freeways for better bargains.

oCrystal Cove Beach Cottages

CABIN $$

(% reservations 800-444-7275; www.crystalcove beachcottages.com; 35 Crystal Cove, Newport

89 Beach; r without bath $42-127, cottages $162-249; h check-in 4-9pm; c ) To snag these historic

oceanfront cottages, book on the first day of the month six months before your intended stay – or pray for last-minute cancellations.

provided) as you head inside HB’s hippest hotel, a stone’s throw from the pier. The Shorebreak has a surf concierge, a fitness center and yoga studio, bean-bag chairs in the lobby and rattan and hardwood furniture in geometric-patterned air-con rooms (some pet-friendly). Have sunset cocktails on the upstairs deck at Zimzala restaurant. Parking is $27. Sugar Shack CAFE $ (www.hbsugarshack.com; 213½ Main St, Huntington Beach; mains $4-10; h 6am-2pm Mon-Tue & ThuFri, to 8pm Wed, to 3pm Sat & Sun; c ) Expect a

wait at this HB institution, or get here early to see surfer dudes don their wet suits. Breakfast is served all day on the bustling Main St patio and inside, where you can grab a spot at the counter or a two-top. Photos of surf legends plastering the walls raise this place almost to shrine status.

oBear Flag Fish Company

SEAFOOD $$

(% 949-673-3434; www.bearflagfishco.com; 3421 Via Lido, Newport Beach; mains $8-15; h 11am9pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun & Mon; c ) This is

the place for generously sized, grilled and panko-breaded fish tacos, ahi burritos, spankin’ fresh ceviche and oysters. Pick out what you want from the ice-cold display cases, then grab a picnic-table seat. About the only way this seafood could be any fresher is if you caught and hauled it off the boat yourself! 242 Cafe Fusion Sushi JAPANESE $$$ (www.fusionart.us; 242 N Coast Hwy, Laguna Beach; mains $18-45; h 4:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat) One of the only female sushi chefs

in Orange County, Miki Izumisawa slices and rolls organic rice into Laguna’s best sushi, artfully presented. The place seats maybe two dozen people at a time, so expect a wait or come early. The ‘sexy’ handroll – spicy ahi and scallops with mint, cilantro, avocado and crispy potato – is date-enhancing.

Hey, did that painting just move? Welcome to the Pageant of the Masters (% 800-487-3378; www.foapom.com; 650 Laguna Canyon Rd; tickets from $15; h 8:30pm daily mid-Jul–Aug), in which elaborately costumed humans step into painstaking re-creations of famous paintings on an outdoor stage. The pageant began in 1933 as a sideshow to Laguna Beach’s Festival of Arts (www. foapom.com; 650 Laguna Canyon Rd; admission $7-10; h usually 10am-11:30pm Jul & Aug) and has been a prime attraction ever since. Our favorite part: watching the paintings deconstruct.

San Diego

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Shorebreak Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (% 714-861-4470; www.shorebreakhotel.com; 500 Pacific Coast Hwy, Huntington Beach; r $189-495; p aiW# ) Stow your surfboard (lockers

LAGUNA’S FESTIVAL OF ARTS

San Diegans shamelessly promote their hometown as ‘America’s Finest City.’ It’s easy to see where that breezy confidence comes from: the sunny weather is practically perfect, and beaches are rarely more than a quick drive away. San Diego’s population (1.38 million) makes it the USA’s eighth- largest city and California’s second largest (after LA), yet we’re hard-pressed to think of a more laid-back metropolis anywhere. The city grew by leaps and bounds during WWII, when the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor prompted the US Navy to relocate the US Pacific Fleet from Hawaii to San Diego’s natural harbor. The military, tourism, education and scientific-research industries (especially medicine and oceanography), as well as high-tech ventures cropping up in inland valleys, have helped shape this city set against the Mexico borderlands.

1 Sights San Diego’s compact downtown hinges on the historic Gaslamp Quarter, a beehive after dark. Coronado is reached via a stunning bridge, while museum-rich Balboa Park (home of the San Diego Zoo) is north of downtown. Heading west is touristy Old Town and Mission Bay’s aquatic playground. Cruising up the coast, Ocean Beach, Mission Beach and Pacific Beach live the laid-back SoCal dream, while La Jolla sits pretty and privileged. The I-5 Fwy cuts through the region north–south.

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Greater San Diego

Greater San Diego æ Top Sights 1 Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego – La Jolla .................................... A2 2 San Diego Zoo ......................................... C5

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 15 Bikes & Beyond....................................... C6 16 Pacific Beach Surf Shop ........................ A4 17 Surf Diva................................................... A2 18 Torrey Pines Gliderport .......................... A1

1 Downtown & Embarcadero Downtown once harbored a notorious strip of saloons, gambling joints and bordellos known as Stingaree. These days, Stingaree has been beautifully restored and rechristened the Gaslamp Quarter, a heart-thumping playground of restaurants, bars, clubs, boutiques and galleries. At downtown’s northern edge, Little Italy has evolved into one of the city’s hippest neighborhoods to live, eat and shop.

oUSS Midway Museum

MUSEUM

(Map p92; % 619-544-9600; www.midway.org; 910 N Harbor Dr; adult/child $20/10; h 10am-5pm, last entry 4pm; c ) The giant aircraft carrier

USS Midway was one of the navy’s flagships from 1945 to 1991, last playing a combat role in the first Gulf War. On the flight deck of the hulking vessel, walk right up to some 25 restored aircraft including an F-14 Tomcat and F-4 Phantom jet fighter. Admission includes an audio tour, along the narrow confines of the upper decks to the bridge, admiral’s war room, brig and ‘pri-fly’ (primary flight control; the carrier’s equivalent of a control tower).

ú Eating Bencotto ..........................................(see 21) 23 George's at the Cove...............................A2 24 Hash House a Go Go ...............................C5 25 Hodad's.....................................................A5 26 Juniper & Ivy ............................................C5 27 Point Loma Seafoods .............................B6 Prado............................................... (see 10) 28 Urban Solace............................................D5 29 Whisknladle ..............................................A2 û Drinking & Nightlife Ballast Point Tasting Room & Kitchen.........................................(see 26) ý Entertainment 30 Casbah......................................................C5 31 La Jolla Playhouse...................................B2 ï Information Balboa Park Visitors Center......... (see 10)

Maritime Museum MUSEUM (Map p92; % 619-234-9153; www.sdmaritime. org; 1492 N Harbor Dr; adult/child $16/8; h 9am9pm late May-early Sep, to 8pm early Sep-late May; c ) This museum is easy to find: look

for the 100ft-high masts of the iron-hulled square-rigger Star of India. Built on the Isle of Man and launched in 1863, the tall ship plied the England–India trade route, carried immigrants to New Zealand, became a trading ship based in Hawaii and, finally, ferried cargo in Alaska. It’s a handsome vessel, but don’t expect anything romantic or glamorous on board. Museum of Contemporary Art MUSEUM (MCASD Downtown; Map p92; % 858-454-3541; www.mcasd.org; 1001 Kettner Blvd; adult/child under 25yr/senior $10/free/$5, 5-7pm 3rd Thu each month free; h 11am-5pm Thu-Tue, to 7pm 3rd Thu each month) This Financial District museum

has brought an ever-changing variety of innovative artwork to San Diegans since the 1960s here in the downtown location and La Jolla branch (MCASD; Map p90; % 858454-3541; www.mcasd.org; 700 Prospect St, La Jolla; adult/child $10/free, 5-7pm 3rd Thu each month free; h 11am-5pm Thu-Tue, to 7pm 3rd Thu each month); check the website for exhibits.

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æ Sights 3 Belmont Park........................................... A4 4 Birch Aquarium at Scripps .................... A2 5 Cabrillo National Monument ................. B7 6 Hotel del Coronado................................. C7 7 Junípero Serra Museum ........................ C5 Mingei International Museum ...... (see 10) Museum of Man ............................. (see 10) 8 Old Town State Historic Park................ B5 Reuben H Fleet Science Center....(see 11) 9 San Diego Air & Space Museum........... C5 10 San Diego Museum of Art...................... C5 11 San Diego Natural History Museum..... D5 12 SeaWorld San Diego............................... B4 13 Spanish Village Art Center .................... D5 14 Spreckels Organ Pavilion....................... D5 Timken Museum of Art ................. (see 10)

ÿ Sleeping 19 Crystal Pier Hotel & Cottages................A4 Hotel del Coronado ......................... (see 6) 20 Inn at Sunset Cliffs ..................................A5 21 La Pensione Hotel ...................................C6 22 Pearl ..........................................................B5

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Across from the main building, a slickly renovated section of San Diego’s train station houses permanent works by Jenny Holzer and Richard Serra. Tickets are valid for seven days in all locations.

1 Coronado Technically a peninsula, Coronado Island is joined to the mainland by a 2.2-mile-long bridge. The peninsula’s main draw is the Hotel del Coronado (p96), known for its seaside Victorian architecture and illustrious guest book, which includes Thomas Edison, Babe Ruth and Marilyn Monroe (its exterior stood in for a Miami hotel in the classic flick Some Like it Hot). The hourly Coronado Ferry (Map p92; % 619-234-4111; www.flagshipsd.com; $4.75; h 9am-10pm) departs from the

tickets

Embarcadero’s Broadway Pier (990 N Harbor Dr) and from downtown’s convention center. All

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ferries arrive on Coronado at the foot of 1st St, where Bikes & Beyond (Map p90; % 619-

435-7180; www.bikes-and-beyond.com; 1201 1st St, Coronado; per hr/day from $8/30; h 9am-sunset)

rents cruisers and tandems, perfect for pedaling past Coronado’s white-sand beaches sprawling south along the Silver Strand.

1 Balboa Park Balboa Park is an urban oasis brimming with more than a dozen museums, gorgeous gardens and architecture, performance spaces and a zoo. Early 20th-century beauxarts and Spanish Colonial Revival–style buildings (the legacy of world’s fairs) are grouped around plazas along east–west El Prado promenade. A free tram shuttles visitors around the park, but it’s more enjoyable to stroll around the botanical gardens, past the 1915 Spreckels Organ Pavilion (Map p90; http://

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Downtown San Diego æ Top Sights 1 USS Midway Museum ..........................A2 æ Sights 2 Maritime Museum ................................ A1 3 Museum of Contemporary Art............B2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Flagship Cruises........................... (see 11) ÿ Sleeping 4 Hotel Solamar .......................................D3 5 USA Hostels San Diego........................D3 ú Eating 6 Basic .......................................................E3 7 Puesto at the Headquarters................B3 û Drinking & Nightlife 8 Bang Bang .............................................D3 9 Noble Experiment .................................E3 ý Entertainment 10 Arts Tix ...................................................D2 ï Transport 11 Coronado Ferry.....................................A2

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spreckelsorgan.org), the shops and galleries of the Spanish Village Art Center (Map p90; h 11am-4pm) F and the international- themed exhibition cottages by the United Nations Building.

Stop by the Balboa Park Visitors Center (p99) for maps, events information and discount attraction passes. Free parking lots off Park Blvd fill quickly on weekends. From downtown, take MTS bus 7 ($2.25, 20 minutes).

oSan Diego Zoo

ZOO

(Map p90; % 619-231-1515; http://zoo.sandiego.org; 2920 Zoo Dr; 1-day pass adult/child from $48/38, 2-visit pass to zoo and/or safari park adult/child $86/66; h 9am-9pm mid-Jun–early Sep, to 5pm or 6pm early Sep–mid-Jun; pc ) S This justifia-

bly famous zoo is one of SoCal’s biggest attractions, showing more than 3000 animals representing over 800 species in a beautifully landscaped setting, typically in enclosures

that replicate their natural habitats. Its sister park is San Diego Zoo Safari Park (p99) in northern San Diego County. Arrive early, as many of the animals are most active in the morning – though many perk up again in the afternoon. Pick up a map at the entrance to the zoo to find your own favorite exhibits. Reuben H Fleet Science Center MUSEUM (Map p90; % 619-238-1233; www.rhfleet.org; 1875 El Prado; adult/child incl IMAX $20/17; h 10am5pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun; c ) One of Balboa

Park’s most popular venues, this hands-on science museum features interactive displays and a toddler room. Look out for opportunities to build gigantic structures with Keva planks and visit the Gallery of Illusions and Perceptions. The biggest drawcard is the Giant Dome Theater, which screens several different films each day. The hemispherical, wraparound screen and 152-speaker state-of-the-art sound system create sensations ranging from pretty cool to mind-blowing. San Diego Natural History Museum MUSEUM (Map p90; % 619-232-3821; www.sdnhm.org; 1788 El Prado; adult/child $19/11; h 10am-5pm; c ) The ‘Nat’ houses 7.5 million specimens,

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including rocks, fossils and taxidermied animals, as well as an impressive dinosaur skeleton and a California fault-line exhibit, all in beautiful spaces. Kids love the movies about the natural world in the giant-screen cinema; the selections change frequently. Children’s programs are held most weekends. Special exhibits (some with an extra charge) span pirates to King Tut. The museum also arranges field trips and nature walks in Balboa Park and further afield. Museum of Man MUSEUM (Map p90; % 619-239-2001; www.museumofman. org; Plaza de California, 1350 El Prado; adult/ child/student/child $12.50/5/8; h 10am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 8:30pm Thu-Sat) This is the coun-

ty’s only anthropological museum, with exhibits spanning ancient Egypt, the Mayans and local native Kumeyaay people, human evolution and the human life cycle. Recent temporary exhibits have covered everything from women’s empowerment to beer. The basket and pottery collections are especially fine. The museum shop sells handicrafts from Central America and elsewhere. Timken Museum of Art MUSEUM (Map p90; % 619-239-5548; www.timkenmuseum. org; 1500 El Prado; h 10am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun) F Don’t skip the Timken, home

of the Putnam collection, a small but impressive group of paintings, including works by Rembrandt, Rubens, El Greco, Cézanne and Pissarro, plus a wonderful selection of Russian icons. Built in 1965, the building stands out for not being in imitation Spanish style.

San Diego Museum of Art MUSEUM (SDMA; Map p90; % 619-232-7931; www.sdmart. org; 1450 El Prado; adult/child $12/4.50; h 10am5pm Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat, from noon Sun, also 5-8pm Fri mid-Jul–mid-Sep) The SDMA is the city’s

largest art museum. The permanent collection has works by a number of European masters from the renaissance to the modernist eras (though no renowned pieces), American landscape paintings, and several fantastic pieces in the Asian galleries, and there are often important traveling exhibits. The Sculpture Garden has works by Alexander Calder and Henry Moore. San Diego Air & Space Museum MUSEUM (Map p90; % 619-234-8291; www.sandiegoairandspace.org; 2001 Pan American Plaza; adult/child $18/9; h 10am-4:30pm; c ) The round build-

ing at the southern end of the plaza houses an excellent museum with extensive dis-

plays of aircraft throughout history – originals, replicas, models – plus memorabilia from legendary aviators including Charles Lindbergh and astronaut John Glenn. Catch films in the new 3D/4D theater. Mingei International Museum MUSEUM (Map p90; % 619-239-0003; www.mingei.org; 1439 El Prado; adult/child $10/7; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun; c ) A rare New Zealand kauri tree (a fra-

grant evergreen with flat leaves) marks the entrance to this diverse collection of folk art, costumes, toys, jewelry, utensils and other handmade objects from traditional cultures from around the world, plus changing exhibitions covering beads to surfboards. Check the website to find out what’s on.

1 Old Town & Mission Valley In 1769 a band of Spanish soldiers and missionaries led by Franciscan friar Junípero Serra founded the first of California’s 21 historic mission churches on San Diego’s Presidio Hill. In 1821, when California was under Mexican rule, the area below the presidio (fort) became California’s first official civilian Mexican settlement. Old Town State Historic Park HISTORIC SITE (Map p90; % 619-220-5422; www.parks.ca.gov; 4002 Wallace St; h visitor center & museums 10am-4pm daily Oct-Apr, to 5pm Fri-Sun May-Sep; p c ) F This park has an excellent history museum in the Robinson-Rose House

at the southern end of the plaza. You’ll also find a diorama depicting the original pueblo and the park’s visitors center, where you can pick up a copy of the Old Town San Diego State Historic Park Tour Guide & Brief History ($3), or take a guided tour (free) at 11am and 2pm daily. Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá CHURCH (% 619-281-8449; www.missionsandiego.com; 10818 San Diego Mission Rd; adult/child $3/1; h 9am-4:30pm; p ) Although the site of

the first California mission (1769) was on Presidio Hill by present-day Old Town, in 1774 Padre Junípero Serra moved it about 7 miles upriver, closer to water and more arable land, now the Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá. In 1784 missionaries built a solid adobe-and-timber church, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1803. The church was promptly rebuilt, and at least some of it still stands on a slope overlooking Mission Valley.

95 Junípero Serra Museum MUSEUM (Map p90; % 619-232-6203; www.sandiegohistory. org; 2727 Presidio Dr; adult/child $6/3; h 10am5pm Sat & Sun year-round, also 10am-5pm Fri early Jun-early Sep; pc ) Located in one of the

1 Point Loma Cabrillo National Monument MONUMENT (Map p90; % 619-557-5450; www.nps.gov/cabr; 1800 Cabrillo Memorial Dr; per car $5; h 9am-5pm; p ) Atop a steep hill at the tip of the penin-

sula, this is San Diego’s finest locale for history, views and nature walks. It’s also the best place in town to see the gray-whale migration (January to March) from land. You may forget you’re in a major metropolitan area. The visitor center has a comprehensive, old-school presentation on Portuguese explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo’s 1542 voyage up the California coast, plus good exhibits on early Native Californian inhabitants and the area’s natural history.

1 Mission Bay & Beaches San Diego’s big three beach towns all have ribbons of hedonism where armies of tanned, taut bodies frolic in the sand. West of amoeba-shaped Mission Bay, surf-friendly Mission Beach and its northern neighbor, Pacific Beach (aka ‘PB’), are connected by car-free Ocean Front Walk, which swarms with skaters, joggers and cyclists year-round. South of Mission Bay, bohemian Ocean Beach (OB) has a fishing pier, beach volleyball and good surf. Its main drag, Newport Avenue, is chockablock with scruffy bars, flip-flop eateries and shops selling surf gear, tattoos, vintage clothing and antiques. Belmont Park AMUSEMENT PARK (Map p90; % 858-458-1549; www.belmontpark.com; 3146 Mission Blvd; per ride $3-6, all-day pass adult/ child $29/18; h from 11am daily, closing time varies; p ) Pint-sized Belmont Park beckons with a

historic wooden roller coaster, wave simulator and indoor pool. SeaWorld San Diego THEME PARK (Map p90; % 800-257-4268; www.seaworldsandiego.com; 500 SeaWorld Dr; adult/child 3-9yr $89/83;

in 1964 and for years has been one of California’s most popular theme parks. Many visitors spend the whole day here, shuttling between aquatic-themed rides, animal encounters and exhibits. However, the park’s best-known attraction is also its most controversial: live shows featuring trained dolphins, sea lions and killer whales. Since the release of the 2013 documentary Blackfish, SeaWorld’s treatment of its captive orcas has come under intense scrutiny and the company has been hit by falling visitor numbers and a catalogue of negative PR.

1 La Jolla Facing one of SoCal’s loveliest sweeps of coastline, wealthy La Jolla (Spanish for ‘the jewel,’ pronounced la-hoy-ah) possesses shimmering beaches and an upscale downtown filled with boutiques and cafes. Oceanfront diversions include the Children’s Pool (no longer for swimming, it’s now home to barking sea lions), kayaking and exploring sea caves at La Jolla Cove and snorkeling at San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Park. Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve PARK (% 858-755-2063; www.torreypine.org; 12600 N Torrey Pines Park Rd; h 7:15am-dusk, visitor center 10am-4pm Oct-Apr, 9am-6pm May-Sep; p ) S Be-

tween N Torrey Pines Rd and the ocean, and from the Torrey Pines Gliderport (Map p90;

% 858-452-9858;

www.flytorrey.com; 2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Dr; 20min paragliding $175, hang gliding tandem flight per person $225) to Del Mar, this

reserve preserves the last mainland stands of the Torrey pine (Pinus torreyana), a species adapted to sparse rainfall and sandy, stony soils. Steep sandstone gullies have eroded into wonderfully textured surfaces, and the views over the ocean and north, including whale- watching, are superb. Rangers lead nature walks on weekends and holidays. Several walking trails wind through the reserve and down to the beach. Parking fees per car vary from $4 per hour to $15 per day. Birch Aquarium at Scripps AQUARIUM (Map p90; % 858-534-3474; www.aquarium.ucsd. edu; 2300 Expedition Way; adult/child $17/12.50; h 9am-5pm; p c ) S Marine scientists were

working at the Birch Aquarium at Scripps Institution of Oceanography (SIO) as early as 1910 and, helped by donations from the ever-generous Scripps family, the institute has grown to be one of the world’s largest

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most important historical buildings in the city, this small but interesting collection of artifacts and pictures is from the Mission and rancho periods, and it gives a good sense of the earliest days of European settlement up to 1929 when the museum was founded.

h daily; p c ) SeaWorld opened in San Diego

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marine research institutions. It is now a part of University of California, San Diego (UCSD). Off N Torrey Pines Rd, the aquarium has brilliant displays. The Hall of Fishes has more than 30 fish tanks, simulating marine environments from the Pacific Northwest to tropical seas.

2 Activities Surfing and windsurfing are both excellent, although beware of territorial locals in some places. Call % 619-221-8824 for surf reports. Pacific Beach Surf Shop SURFING (Map p90; % 858-373-1138; www.pbsurfshop.com; 4150 Mission Blvd; h store 9am-7pm, lessons hourly until 4pm) This shop provides instruction

through its Pacific Beach Surf School. It has friendly service, and also rents wetsuits and both soft (foam) and hard (fiberglass) boards. Call ahead for lessons. Surf Diva SURFING (Map p90; % 858-454-8273; www.surfdiva.com; 2160 Avenida de la Playa; h store 8:30am-6pm, varies seasonally) The wonderful women here

offer surf classes from $75 and rent boards and wetsuits.

Despite the name, Little Italy’s La Pensione isn’t a pension but an intimate, friendly, recently renovated hotel of 68 rooms with queen-size beds and private bathrooms. It’s set around a frescoed courtyard and it’s just steps to the neighborhood’s dining, cafes and galleries, and walking distance to most downtown attractions. There’s an attractive cafe downstairs. Parking is $15. Hotel Solamar BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (Map p92; % 877-230-0300, 619-819-9500; www. hotelsolamar.com; 435 6th Ave; r $169-299; p a i W s ) A great compromise in the

Gaslamp: hip style that needn’t break the bank. Lounge beats animate your view of skyscrapers from the pool deck and bar, and rooms have sleek lines and nautical blue and neorococo accents for a touch of fun. There’s a fitness center, in-room yoga kit, loaner bikes and a nightly complimentary wine hour. Parking costs $45.

4 Beaches Pearl MOTEL $$ (Map p90; % 619-226-6100, 877-732-7574; www. thepearlsd.com; 1410 Rosecrans St; r $129-169; p a W s ) The midcentury modern Pearl

Flagship Cruises BOAT TOUR feels more Palm Springs than San Diego. (Map p92; % 619-234-4111; www.flagshipsd.com; The 23 rooms in its 1959 shell have soothing 990 N Harbor Dr; tours adult/child from $23/11.50; blue hues, trippy surf motifs and bettas in c ) Harbor tours and seasonal whale- fishbowls. There’s a lively pool scene (includ-

watching cruises from the Embarcadero, from one to several hours long.

4 Sleeping Rates skyrocket in summer, especially by the beaches. Chain hotels and motels cluster inland off major freeways and in Mission Valley. Rates quoted here do not include lodging tax (10.5%).

4 Downtown & Around oUSA Hostels San Diego

HOSTEL $

(Map p92; % 619-232-3100; www.usahostels.com; 726 5th Ave; dm/r without bath from $33/79; iW )

Lots of charm and color at this convivial hostel in a former Victorian-era hotel. Look for cheerful rooms, a full kitchen, a communal lounge for chilling and in-house parties and beach barbecues. Rates include linens, lockers and pancakes for breakfast. It’s smack-dab in the middle of Gaslamp nightlife. No air-con. La Pensione Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (Map p90; % 619-236-8000; www.lapensionehotel.com; 606 W Date St; r from $150; p a W )

ing ‘dive-in’ movies on Wednesday nights), or play Jenga or Parcheesi in the groovy, shag-carpeted lobby. Light sleepers: request a room away from busy street traffic.

Inn at Sunset Cliffs INN $$ (Map p90; % 866-786-2453, 619-222-7901; www. innatsunsetcliffs.com; 1370 Sunset Cliffs Blvd; r/ ste from $175/289; p a i W s ) At the south

end of Ocean Beach, wake up to the sound of surf crashing onto the rocky shore. This lowkey 1965 charmer wraps around a flower- bedecked courtyard with small heated pool. Its 24 breezy rooms are compact, but most have attractive stone-and-tile bathrooms, and some suites have full kitchens. Even if the ocean air occasionally takes its toll on exterior surfaces, it’s hard not to love this place. Free parking.

oHotel del Coronado

LUXURY HOTEL $$$

(Hotel Del; Map p90; % 619-435-6611; www.hoteldel.com; 1500 Orange Ave; r from $289; pn a i W s c # ) San Diego’s iconic hotel

provides the essential Coronado experience: over a century of history, a pool, full-service

fillings such as potato-soy chorizo. Other highlights: crab guacamole, barbacoa short ribs (braised in chili sauce) and a Mexican street bowl (tropical fruits with chili, sea salt and lime).

oCrystal Pier

cotto melds the old with the new of Little Italy – contemporary, angular, multistory, architect-designed, arty and green – and the food is great too, from fresh-sliced prosciutto to pasta a modo tuo (your way), with more than 100 potential combos of fresh pasta and sauce.

Hotel & Cottages COTTAGE $$$ (Map p90; % 858-483-6983, 800-748-5894; www. crystalpier.com; 4500 Ocean Blvd; d $185-525; pWc ) Charming, wonderful and unlike

anyplace else in San Diego, Crystal Pier has cottages built right on the pier above the water. Almost all 29 cottages have full ocean views and kitchens; most date from 1936. Newer, larger cottages sleep up to six. Book eight to 11 months in advance for summer reservations. Minimum-stay requirements vary by season. No air-con. Rates include parking.

5 Eating Generally speaking, you’ll find steakhouses and seafood institutions near downtown’s waterfront, boisterous gastropubs in the Gaslamp Quarter, casual seafood and burgers by the beach, hip kitchens in neighborhoods around Balboa Park, and tacos and margaritas, well, everywhere.

5 Downtown & Around Basic PIZZA $ (Map p92; % 619-531-8869; www.barbasic.com; 410 10th Ave; small/large pizzas from $9/14; h 11:30am-2am) East Village hipsters feast

on fragrant thin-crust, brick-oven-baked pizzas under Basic’s high-ceilinged roof (it’s in a former warehouse). Small pizzas have a large footprint but are pretty light. Toppings span the usual to the newfangled, like the mashed pie with mozzarella, mashed potatoes and bacon. Wash them down with beers (craft, naturally) or one of several mule cocktails.

oPuesto at the Headquarters

MEXICAN $$

(Map p92; % 610-233-8800; www.eatpuesto.com; 789 W Harbor Dr, The Headquarters; mains $1119; h 11am-10pm) This upscale eatery serves

Mexican street food that knocked our zapatos off: innovative takes on traditional tacos such as chicken (with hibsicus, chipotle, pineapple and avocado) and some out-there

Bencotto ITALIAN $$ (Map p90; % 619-450-4786; www.lovebencotto. com; 750 W Fir St; mains $14-26; h 11:30am9:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat; p ) Ben-

Juniper & Ivy MODERN AMERICAN $$$ (Map p90; % 619-269-9036; www.juniperandivy. com; 2228 Kettner Blvd; small plates $9-17, mains $19-36; h 4-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) Chef

Richard Blais has opened San Diego’s restaurant of the moment. The menu changes daily, but if we mention molecular gastronomic takes on prawn and pork rigatoni; artisan-farmed strip steak with smoked potato, porcini onion rings and kimchi ketchup; and homemade Yodels snack cakes for dessert, do you get the idea? It’s in a rockin’ refurbished warehouse.

5 Balboa Park & Around Hash House a Go Go AMERICAN $$ (Map p90; % 619-298-4646; www.hashhouseagogo.com; 3628 5th Ave, Hillcrest; mains breakfast $9-18, dinner $15-29; h 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri, to 2:30pm Sat & Sun, plus 5:30-9pm Tue-Thu, to 9:30pm Fri-Sun; c ) This buzzing bungalow

makes biscuits and gravy straight outta Indiana, towering Benedicts, large-as-yourhead pancakes and – wait for it – hash seven different ways. Eat your whole breakfast, and you won’t need to eat the rest of the day. It’s worth coming back for the equally massive burgers, sage fried chicken and award- winning meatloaf sandwich. No wonder it’s called ‘twisted farm food.’ Urban Solace CALIFORNIAN $$ (Map p90; % 619-295-6464; www.urbansolace. net; 3823 30th St, North Park; mains lunch $1023, dinner $17-27; h 11am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am11pm Fri, 10:30am-11pm Sat, 9:30am-2:30pm & 4-9pm Sun) North Park’s young hip gourmets

revel in creative comfort food here: bluegrass burger; ‘not your mama’s’ meatloaf of ground lamb, fig, pine nuts and feta;

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spa, shops, restaurants, manicured grounds, a white-sand beach and an ice-skating rink in winter. Even the basic rooms have luxurious marbled bathrooms. Note: half the accommodations are not in the main Victorian-era hotel (368 rooms) but in an adjacent seven-story building constructed in the 1970s. For a sense of place, book a room in the original hotel. Parking is $37.

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‘duckaroni’ (mac ‘n’ cheese with duck confit); and chicken and dumplings. The setting’s surprisingly chilled out for such great eats; maybe it’s the creative cocktails.

daily, but it’s always clever. So are the cocktails (the London’s Burning mixes gin and jalapeño water).

Prado CALIFORNIAN $$$ (Map p90; % 619-557-9441; www.pradobalboa.com; House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado; mains lunch $1221, dinner $22-35; h 11:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun, 5-9pm Sun & Tue-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) In one of San Diego’s most beautiful

(Map p90; % 858-454-4244; www.georgesatthecove.com; 1250 Prospect St, La Jolla; mains $13-50; h 11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun) If you’ve

dining rooms, feast on Cal-eclectic cooking by one of San Diego’s most renowned chefs: bakery sandwiches, chicken and orecchiette pasta, and pork prime rib. Go for a civilized lunch on the verandah or for afternoon cocktails and appetizers in the bar.

5 Beaches Hodad’s BURGERS $ (Map p90; % 619-224-4623; www.hodadies.com; 5010 Newport Ave, Ocean Beach; dishes $4-13; h 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) Since

the flower-power days of 1969, OB’s legendary burger joint has served great shakes, massive baskets of onion rings and succulent hamburgers wrapped in paper. The walls are covered in license plates, grunge/ surf-rock plays (loud!) and your bearded, tattooed server might sidle in to your booth to take your order. No shirt, no shoes, no problem, dude. Point Loma Seafoods SEAFOOD $ (Map p90; www.pointlomaseafoods.com; 2805 Emerson St; mains $7-16; h 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am7pm Sun; pc ) For off-the-boat-fresh seafood

sandwiches, salads, fried dishes and icy-cold beer, order at the counter at this fish-marketcum-deli and grab a seat at a picnic table on the upstairs, harbor-view deck. In the Shelter Island Marina, it’s a San Diego institution dating back to Portuguese fisherman days. It also does great sushi and takeout dishes from ceviche to clam chowder. Whisknladle CALIFORNIAN $$ (Map p90; % 858-551-7575; www.wnlhosp.com; 1044 Wall St; mains lunch $14-21, dinner $15-36; h 11:30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-9:30pm Sun) Gourmets and gour-

mands alike love Whisknladle’s ‘slow food’ preparations of local, farm-fresh ingredients, served on a breezy covered patio and meant for sharing. Every minute preparation, from curing to pickling and macerating, is done in-house. The menu changes

oGeorge’s at the Cove

CALIFORNIAN $$$

got the urge to splurge, the Euro-Cal cooking is as dramatic as the oceanfront location thanks to the bottomless imagination of chef Trey Foshée. George’s has graced just about every list of top restaurants in California, and indeed the USA. Three venues allow you to enjoy it at different price points: Ocean Terrace, George’s Bar and George’s California Modern.

6 Drinking & Nightlife Downtown’s Gaslamp Quarter has the rowdiest bars and hottest nightclubs. Lesbigay nightlife hits up Hillcrest and North Park. Bang Bang BAR (Map p92; www.bangbangsd.com; 526 Market St; h closed Mon & Tue) Beneath lantern-light,

the Gaslamp’s hottest new spot has local and world-known DJs and serves sushi and Asian small plates like dumplings and panko-crusted shrimp to nurse the imaginative cocktails (some in giant goblets meant for sharing with your posse). Plus, the bathrooms are shrines to Ryan Gosling and Hello Kitty: in a word, awesome. Noble Experiment BAR (Map p92; % 619-888-4713; http://nobleexperimentsd.com; 777 G St; h 7pm-2am Tue-Sun) This

place is literally a find. Open a secret door and enter a contemporary speakeasy with miniature gold skulls on the walls, classical paintings on the ceilings and some 400 cocktails on the list (from $12). The hard part: getting in. Text for a reservation, and staff will tell you if your requested time is available and how to find the place. Ballast Point Tasting Room & Kitchen PUB (Map p90; % 619-255-7213; www.ballastpoint.com; 2215 India St; h 11am-11pm) Opened in 2013,

this is the newest and funnest location from this San Diego–based brewery, and it does a lot of R&D for the rest of the company. Three 4oz tasters of beer for just $5 is the best deal in town. Enjoy them with a full menu including housemade pretzels, beer-steamed mussels, salads and grilled dishes.

3 Entertainment Arts Tix (Map p92; % 858-381-5595; www.sdartstix.com; 28 Horton Plaza) sells half-price and

discounted tickets to plays, comedy shows and more.

from Smashing Pumpkins to Death Cab for Cutie all rocked the Casbah on their way up the charts and it’s still a good place to catch tomorrow’s headliners. La Jolla Playhouse THEATER (Map p90; % 858-550-1010; www.lajollaplayhouse. org; 2910 La Jolla Village Dr; tickets $20-75) Inside

the Mandell Weiss Center for the Performing Arts, this theater has sent dozens of productions to Broadway including Jersey Boys, Peter and the Starcatcher and 2010 Tony winner Memphis.

88 Information MEDIA San Diego Magazine (www.sandiegomagazine. com) Glossy monthly. San Diego Reader (www.sandiegoreader.com) Free tabloid covers entertainment, food, beer and more. U-T San Diego (www.utsandiego.com) The city’s major daily newspaper. MEDICAL SERVICES Scripps Mercy Hospital (% 619-294-8111; www.scripps.org; 4077 5th Ave) Has a 24-hour emergency room. MONEY TravelEx (% 858-457-2412; www.travelex. com; Westfield UTC, 4417 La Jolla Village Dr; h 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) For foreign-currency exchange. TOURIST INFORMATION Balboa Park Visitors Center (Map p90; % 619-239-0512; www.balboapark.org; House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado; h 9:30am4:30pm) In the House of Hospitality, the visitor center sells park maps and discount passports to museums and the zoo. Coronado Visitors Center (Map p90; % 866599-7242, 619-437-8788; www.coronadovisitorcenter.com; 1100 Orange Ave; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) USEFUL WEBSITES Gaslamp Quarter Association (http://gaslamp.org) Everything you need to know about

88 Getting There & Away Served mainly by domestic US and Mexico flights, San Diego International Airport (SAN; Map p90; www.san.org; 3325 N Harbor Dr; W ) sits 3 miles northwest of downtown. Greyhound (Map p92; % 800-231-2222, 619515-1100; www.greyhound.com; 1313 National Ave) has hourly direct buses to Los Angeles ($19, two hours). Amtrak (% 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) runs the Pacific Surfliner several times daily to Los Angeles ($37, 2¾ hours) and Santa Barbara ($42, 5¾ hours) from downtown’s historic Union Station (Santa Fe Depot; 1050 Kettner Blvd). Major international car-rental companies have desks at the airport. Smaller, independent West Coast Rent a Car (% 619-544-0606; www. sandiegoautos.org; 834 W Grape St; h 9am6pm Mon-Sat) rents to under-25s, with free airport pickups.

88 Getting Around MTS bus 992 ‘The Flyer’ ($2.25) runs every 15 to 30 minutes between the airport and Downtown from 5am until 11pm daily. Airport shuttles like Super Shuttle (% 800-258-3826; www. supershuttle.com) charge around $8 to $13 to downtown; book in advance. An airport taxi to downtown averages $10 to $16, plus tip. City buses ($2.25 to $2.50) and trolleys ($2.50), including south to the Mexico border, are operated by Metropolitan Transit System (MTS; % 619-233-3004; www.sdmts.com). MTS’s Transit Store (Map p92; 102 Broadway; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) sells regional passes (one/two/three/four days $5/9/12/15); purchase one-day passes on board buses (surcharge $2). Metered taxis charge $2.80 at flag fall, then $3 per mile.

A round San Diego San Diego Zoo Safari Park ZOO (% 760-747-8702; www.sdzsafaripark.org; 15500 San Pasqual Valley Rd, Escondido; admission adult/ child $48/38, 2-visit pass to zoo and/or safari park $86/66; h 9am-5pm late Aug–mid-Jun, to 7pm late Jun–mid-Aug; c ). At this 1800-acre open-range

zoo, giraffes graze, lions lounge and rhinos roam more or less freely on the valley floor.

Ca li fo rnia A S outh Ent round e rtainm e rn S an C ealifornia Dnt iego C oast

Casbah LIVE MUSIC (Map p90; % 619-232-4355; www.casbahmusic. com; 2501 Kettner Blvd; tickets $5-45) Bands

99 the bustling Gaslamp Quarter, including parking secrets. San Diego Tourism (www.sandiego.org) Search sights, activities, neighborhoods and more, and make hotel reservations.

100

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For that instant safari feel, board the Africa Tram, which tours the second-largest continent in just 25 minutes. The park is in Escondido, about 35 miles northeast of Downtown San Diego. Take the I-15 Fwy to the E Via Rancho Pkwy exit, then follow the signs. Parking is $12.

dered to retirees in golf clothing. Recently a new generation has rediscovered the city’s retro-chic charms: kidney-shaped pools, ‘starchitect’ bungalows, Mid-Century Modern boutique hotels and bars serving perfect martinis. Today retirees mix comfortably with hipsters, hikers and an out-and-proud LGBTIQ community.

Legoland

1 Sights & Activities

Legoland THEME PARK (% 760-918-5346; http://california.legoland.com; 1 Legoland Dr, Carlsbad; adult/child from $87/81; h open almost daily year-round, hours vary; pc ) This fun fantasy theme park of rides,

Palm Springs is the hub of the Coachella Valley, a string of desert towns along Hwy 111. In PS’ compact downtown, one-way southbound Palm Canyon Dr is paralleled by northbound Indian Canyon Dr.

shows and attractions is mostly suited to the elementary-school set. Tots can dig for dinosaur bones, pilot helicopters and earn their driver’s license. Families with young children can overnight in the brand-new, colorful Lego-themed hotel (% 760-918-5346, 877-534-6526; http://california.legoland.com/legoland-hotel; 5885 The Crossings Dr; r incl breakfast from $369; pnaiWsc ).

From Downtown San Diego (about 33 miles), take the I-5 Fwy north to Carlsbad’s Cannon Rd exit. Parking is $15.

PALM SPRINGS & THE DESERTS From swanky Palm Springs to desolate Death Valley, Southern California’s desert region swallows up 25% of the entire state. At first what seems harrowingly barren may eventually be transformed in your mind’s eye to perfect beauty: weathered volcanic peaks, booming sand dunes, purple-tinged mountains, cactus gardens, tiny wildflowers pushing up from hard-baked soil in spring, lizards scurrying beside colossal boulders, and in the night sky, uncountable stars. California’s deserts are serenely spiritual, surprisingly chic and ultimately irresistible, whether you’re a bohemian artist, movie star, rock climber or 4WD adventurer.

Palm Springs

The Rat Pack is back, baby – or, at least, its hangout is. In the 1950 and ’60s, Palm Springs (population 45,000), some 100 miles east of LA, was the swinging getaway of Sinatra, Elvis and other stars. Once the Rat Pack packed it in, Palm Springs surren-

oPalm Springs Aerial Tramway

CABLE CAR

(% 888-515-8726; www.pstramway.com; 1 Tram Way; adult/child $24/17; h from 10am Mon-Fri, 8am Sat & Sun, last tram up 8pm Sun-Thu, 9pm Fri & Sat, last tram down 9:45pm Sun-Thu, 10:30pm Fri & Sat) North of downtown, this rotating cable

car is a highlight of any Palm Springs trip. It climbs nearly 6000 vertical feet through five different vegetation zones, from the Sonoran desert floor to the San Jacinto Mountains, in less than 15 minutes. The 2.5-mile ascent is said to be the temperature equivalent of driving from Mexico to Canada. It’s 30°F to 40°F (up to 22°C) cooler as you step out into pine forests at the top, so bring warm clothing. Sunnylands NOTABLE BUILDING (% 760-202-2222; www.sunnylands.org; 37977 Bob Hope Dr, Rancho Mirage; admission free, tours $20-40; h 9am-4pm Thu-Sun, closed Jul & Aug)

Sunnylands is the Mid-Century Modern estate of Walter and Leonore Annenberg, one of America’s ‘first families.’ At their winter estate in Rancho Mirage, the Annenbergs entertained seven US presidents, royalty, Hollywood celebrities and international heads of state. A new visitor center and museum screen a film and show changing exhibits about the estate. Just beyond is a magnificent desert garden. Reserve as early as possible for tours of the stunning house with its art collection, architecture and furniture. Palm Springs Art Museum MUSEUM (% 760-322-4800; www.psmuseum.org; 101 Museum Dr; adult/child $12.50/free, 4-8pm Thu free; h 10am-5pm Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun, noon-8pm Thu)

See the evolution of American painting, sculpture, photography and glass art over the past century. Alongside well-curated

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Living Desert Zoo & Gardens ZOO (% 760-346-5694; www.livingdesert.org; 47900 Portola Ave, Palm Desert, off Hwy 111; adult/ child $20/10; h 9am-5pm Oct-May, 8am-1:30pm Jun-Sep; c ) S This amazing zoo exhib-

its a variety of desert plants and animals, alongside exhibits on desert geology and Native American culture. Highlights include a walk-through wildlife hospital and an African-themed village with a fair-trade market and storytelling grove. Camel rides, a spin on the endangered-species carousel, and a hop-on, hop-off shuttle cost extra. It’s educational fun and worth the 30-minute (15-mile) drive down-valley. Indian Canyons HIKING (% 760-323-6018; www.indian-canyons.com; 38520 S Palm Canyon Dr; adult/child $9/5, 90min guided hike $3/2; h 8am-5pm Oct-Jun, Fri-Sun only Jul-Sep) Streams flowing from the San Jacin-

to Mountains sustain a rich variety of plants in oases around Palm Springs. Home to Native American communities for hundreds of years and now part of the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation, these canyons, shaded by fan palms and surrounded by towering cliffs, are a delight for hikers. Smoke Tree Stables HORSEBACK RIDING (% 760-327-1372; www.smoketreestables.com; 2500 S Toledo Ave; 1/2hr guided ride $50/100)

Near the Indian Canyons, this outfit arranges trail rides ranging from one-hour outings to all-day treks, for both novice and experienced riders. Reservations required.

4 Sleeping High-season winter rates are quoted below; rates drop midweek and during summer. Motels hug Hwy 111 southeast of downtown. Book ahead, especially for weekends. Caliente Tropics MOTEL $ (% 760-327-1391; www.calientetropics.com; 411 E Palm Canyon Dr; r weekday/weekendfrom $54/109; paWsc# ) Elvis once frol-

icked poolside at this premier budget pick, a nicely kept 1964 tiki-style motor lodge. Drift off to dreamland on quality mattresses

in rooms that are spacious and dressed in warm colors.

oOrbit In

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(% 877-966-7248, 760-323-3585; www.orbitin. com; 562 W Arenas Rd; r from $149; paW s )

Swing back to the ’50s – pinkie raised and all – during the ‘Orbitini’ happy hour at this fabulously retro property, with high-end Mid-Century Modern furniture (Eames, Noguchi et al) in rooms set around a quiet saline pool with a Jacuzzi and fire pit. The long list of freebies includes bike rentals and daytime sodas and snacks. Ace Hotel & Swim Club HOTEL $$ (% 760-325-9900; www.acehotel.com/palmsprings; 701 E Palm Canyon Dr; r from $200; paiWs# ) Palm Springs goes Hollywood – with

all the sass, but sans the attitude – at this former Howard Johnson motel turned hipster hangout. Rooms (many with patio) sport a glorified tent-cabin look and are crammed with lifestyle essentials (big flat-screen TVs, MP3 plugs). Happening pool scene and there’s the Feel Good Spa (% 760-866-6188; www.acehotel.com/palmsprings/spa; 701 E Palm Canyon Dr), on-site restaurant and a bar to boot. Del Marcos Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (% 760-325-6902; www.delmarcoshotel.com; 225 W Baristo Rd; r incl breakfast $139-269; aW s# )

At this 1947 gem, designed by William F Cody, groovy lobby tunes usher you to a saltwater pool and ineffably chic rooms. And it’s steps from the shops and eats of downtown Palm Springs’ village.

WORLD’S BIGGEST DINOSAURS World’s Biggest Dinosaurs (% 951922-0076; www.cabazondinosaurs.com; 50770 Seminole Dr, Cabazon; adult/child $9/8; h 10am-8pm, off-season hours vary). You may do a double-take when you see this place, west of Palm Springs, near Cabazon’s outlet malls. Claude K Bell, a sculptor for Knott’s Berry Farm (p87), spent over a decade crafting these concrete behemoths, now owned by Christian creationists. In the gift shop, alongside the sort of dino-swag you might find at science museums, you can read about the alleged hoaxes and fallacies of evolution and Darwinism. To get here, exit the I-10 Fwy W at Main St in Cabazon.

Ca li fo rnia Palm S l e e pin S prin g g s & th e D e s e rts

temporary exhibitions, the permanent collection is especially strong in modern painting and sculpture, with works by Henry Moore, Ed Ruscha, Mark di Suvero and other heavy hitters. There’s also stunning glass art by Dale Chihuly and William Morris and a collection of pre-Columbian figurines.

102 El Morocco Inn & Spa BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (% 760-288-2527, 888-288-9905; www.elmoroccoinn.com; 66810 4th St, Desert Hot Springs; $179219; aWs ) Heed the call of the casbah at

Ca li fo rnia Palm Eatin g S prin g s & th e D e s e rts

this drop-dead-gorgeous hideaway where the scene is set for romance. Twelve exotically furnished rooms wrap around a pool deck where your enthusiastic host serves free ‘Moroccotinis’ during happy hour. Other perks: on-site spa, huge DVD library and delicious homemade mint iced tea.

5 Eating Some restaurants keep shorter hours or even close for a few weeks during the hot, hot summer. Tyler’s Burgers BURGERS $ (www.tylersburgers.com; 149 S Indian Canyon Dr; dishes $3-9; h 11am-4pm Mon-Sat; c ) This

tiny shack in the center of downtown Palm Springs serves the best burgers in town, bar none. Waits are practically inevitable, which is presumably why there’s an amazingly well-stocked magazine rack. Cash only.

oCheeky’s

CALIFORNIAN $$

(% 760-327-7595; www.cheekysps.com; 622 N Palm Canyon Dr; mains $8-13; h 8am-2pm Wed-Mon, last seating 1:30pm) S Waits can be long and ser-

vice only so-so, but the farm-to-table menu dazzles with witty inventiveness. Dishes change weekly, but custardy scrambled eggs, arugula pesto frittata and bacon bar ‘flights’ keep making appearances. Sherman’s DELI, BAKERY $$ (% 760-325-1199; www.shermansdeli.com; 401 E Tahquitz Canyon Way; mains $9-19; h 7am-9pm; c ) Every community with a sizable retired

6 Drinking & Nightlife Arenas Rd, east of Indian Canyon Dr, is gay and lesbian nightlife central. Birba BAR (www.birbaps.com; 622 N Palm Canyon Dr; h 511pm Sun & Wed-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) It’s

cocktails and pizza at this fabulous indoor- outdoor space where floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors separate the long marble bar from a hedge-fringed patio with sunken fire pits. Koffi COFFEE (www.kofficoffee.com; 515 N Palm Canyon Dr; snacks & drinks $3-6; h 5:30am-7pm; W ) Tucked

among the art galleries on N Palm Canyon Dr, this coolly minimalist, indie java bar serves strong organic coffee. There’s a second Palm Springs location at 1700 S Camino Real, near the Ace Hotel.

7 Shopping For art galleries, modern design stores and fashion boutiques, including fabulous Trina Turk (% 760-416-2856; www.trinaturk.com; 891 N Palm Canyon Dr; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun), head ‘Uptown’ to North Palm

Canyon Dr. If you’re riding the retro wave, uncover treasures in thrift, vintage and consignment shops scattered around downtown and along Hwy 111. For a local version of Rodeo Dr, drive down-valley to Palm Desert’s El Paseo.

88 Information

Palm Springs Library (www.palmspringsca. gov; 300 S Sunrise Way; h 10am-6pm Mon & Thu, to 8pm Tue & Wed, to 5pm Fri & Sat; contingent needs a good Jewish deli. Sher- i W ) Free wi-fi and internet terminals. man’s is it. With a breezy sidewalk patio, it Palm Springs Official Visitors Center (% 760pulls in an all-ages crowd with its 40 sand- 778-8418; www.visitpalmsprings.com; 2901 N wich varieties (great hot pastrami!), finger- Palm Canyon Dr; h 9am-5pm) Well-stocked lickin’ rotisserie chicken, lox and bagels and and well-staffed visitors center 3 miles north of downtown, in a 1965 Albert Frey–designed gas to-die-for pies. Walls are festooned with station at the tramway turnoff.

head shots of celebrity regulars, including Don Rickles.

Trio CALIFORNIAN $$$ (% 760-864-8746; www.triopalmsprings.com; 707 N Palm Canyon Dr; mains lunch $11-26, dinner $14-29; h 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

The winning formula in this ’60s modernist space: updated American comfort food (awesome Yankee pot roast!), eye-catching artwork and picture windows. The $19 prixfixe three-course dinner (served until 6pm) is a steal.

88 Getting There & Around About 3 miles east of downtown, Palm Springs International Airport (PSP; % 760-318-3800; www.palmspringsairport.com; 3400 E Tahquitz Canyon Way) is served by US and Canadian airlines; major car-rental agencies are on-site. Thrice-weekly Amtrak trains to/from LA ($41, 2¾ hours) stop at the unstaffed, kinda-creepy North Palm Springs station, 5 miles north of downtown, as do a few daily Greyhound buses to/from LA ($27, 2½ to 3½ hours).

103 SunLine (% 800-347-8628; www.sunline.org; one way/day pass $1/3) runs slow-moving local buses throughout the valley.

Joshua Tree National Park

1 Sights & Activities Dominating the north side of the park

(% 760-367-5500; www.nps.gov/jotr; 7-day entry per car $20), the epic Wonderland of Rocks calls to climbers, as does Hidden Valley. Sunset-worthy Keys View overlooks the San

Andreas Fault and on clear days, you can see as far as Mexico. For pioneer history, tour Keys Ranch (% reservations 760-367-5522; tour adult/child $10/5; h tour schedules vary, reservations required). Hikers seek out native desert fan-palm oases like 49 Palms Oasis (3-mile round-trip) and Lost Palms Oasis (7.2-

mile round-trip). Kid-friendly nature trails include Barker Dam (1.1-mile loop), which passes Native American petroglyphs; Skull Rock (1.7-mile loop); and Cholla Cactus Garden (0.25-mile loop). For a scenic 4WD route, tackle bumpy 18-mile Geology Tour Road, also open to mountain bikers.

4 Sleeping The park itself only has camping. Budget and midrange motels line Hwy 62. Joshua Tree National Park Campgrounds CAMPGROUND $ (www.nps.gov/jotr; tent & RV sites $10-15; c # )

Of the park’s eight campgrounds, only Cottonwood and Black Rock have potable water, flush toilets and dump stations. Indian Cove and Black Rock accept reservations; the others are first-come, first-served. None have showers. Backcountry camping (no campfires) is allowed 1 mile from any trailhead or road and 100ft from water sources; free self-registration is required at the park’s

Less than 5 miles northwest of Hwy 62 in Yucca Valley, Pioneertown was built as a Hollywood movie set in 1946, and it hasn’t changed much since. Witness mock gunfights at 2:30pm on Sundays from April to October. Enjoy BBQ, cheap beer and live music at honky-tonk Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace (% 760-365-5956; www.pappyandharriets. com; 53688 Pioneertown Rd; mains $8-29; h 11am-2am Thu-Sun, from 5pm Mon). Snooze at the Pioneertown Motel (% 760-365-7001; www.pioneertown-motel. com; 5040 Curtis Rd; r $70-120; aW # ), where old-timey movie stars once slept and simple rooms are crammed with Western-themed memorabilia.

12 backcountry boards at trailheads. Joshua

Tree Outfitters (% 760-366-1848; www.joshuatreeoutfitters.com; 61707 Hwy 62) rents quality

camping gear.

Harmony Motel MOTEL $ (% 760-367-3351; www.harmonymotel.com; 71161 Twentynine Palms Hwy, Twentynine Palms; r $7585; p a i W s ) This 1950s motel, where

U2 stayed while working on the Joshua Tree album, has a small pool and large, cheerfully painted rooms; some have kitchenettes.

oSpin & Margie’s

Desert Hide-a-Way INN $$ (% 760-366-9124; www.deserthideaway.com; 64491 Hwy 62; ste $145-175; aW ) This hand-

some hacienda-style inn is perfect for restoring calm after a long day on the road. The five boldly colored suites are an eccentric symphony of corrugated tin, old license plates and cartoon art. Each has its own kitchen and flat-screen TV with DVD and CD player. Knowledgeable, gregarious owners ensure a relaxed visit. It’s down the dirt Sunkist Rd, about 3 miles east of downtown Joshua Tree. Joshua Tree Inn MOTEL $$ (% 760-366-1188; www.joshuatreeinn.com; 61259 Twentynine Palms Hwy, Joshua Tree; r/ste incl breakfast from $89/159; h reception 3pm to 8pm; a W s ) This funky-cool, rock-and-

roll– infused, wisteria-strewn motel has 11 spacious rooms behind turquoise doors leading off from a desert-garden courtyard with great views. It gained notoriety in 1973

Ca li fo rnia JS Palm oshua i g hts S prin &T rAectiviti ge sN&ational th e se D e sPark e rts

Like figments from a Dr Seuss book, whimsical- looking Joshua trees (actually tree-sized yuccas) welcome visitors to this wilderness park where the Sonora and Mojave Deserts converge. You’ll find most of the main attractions, including all of the Joshua trees, in the park’s northern half. ‘J-Tree’ is perennially popular with rock climbers and day hikers, especially in spring when the trees bloom with cream-colored flowers. The mystical quality of this stark, boulder-strewn landscape has inspired countless artists, most famously the rock band U2.

PIONEERTOWN

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when rock legend Gram Parsons overdosed in room 8, now decorated in tribute. Other famous guests have included John Wayne, Donovan and Emmylou Harris.

5 Eating Ca li fo rnia A Palm Eatin nza -g SBprin orr eggso&Dth e s e rt D e sS etat rts e Park

Crossroads Cafe AMERICAN $ (% 760-366-5414; 61715 Twentynine Palms Hwy, Joshua Tree; mains $5-12; h 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; v ) The much-loved Crossroads is

the go-to place for carbo-loaded breakfasts, fresh sandwiches and dragged-through-thegarden salads that make both omnivores (burgers, Reuben sandwich) and vegans (spinach salad) happy.

ulous variety of plants and wildlife; and intriguing historical relics of Native American tribes, Spanish explorers and gold-rush pioneers. Early spring wildflower blooms bring the biggest crowds. In summer Hades-like heat makes daytime exploring dangerous.

1 Sights & Activities Two miles west of Borrego Springs, the park visitor center (% 760-767-4205; www.parks. ca.gov; 200 Palm Canyon Dr, Borrego Springs; h 9am-5pm daily Oct 15-May 15, Sat & Sun only May 16-Sep 14) has natural-history exhibits,

information handouts and updates on road conditions. Driving through the park is free, but if you camp, hike or picnic, a day-use Pie for the People PIZZA $$ parking fee ($5 per car) applies. You’ll need (% 760-366-0400; www.pieforthepeople.com; a 4WD to tackle the 500 miles of backcoun61740 Hwy 62, Joshua Tree; pizzas $11-25; h 11am- try dirt roads. If you’re hiking, always bring 9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun; c ) extra water. Thin-crust pizzas for takeout and delivery. Park highlights include Fonts Point deFlavors span standards to the David Bow- sert lookout, Clark Dry Lake for birding, the ie: white pizza with mozzarella, Guinness Elephant Tree Discovery Trail near Split caramelized onions, jalapenos, pineapple, Mountain’s wind caves, and Blair Valley, bacon, and sweet plum sauce. Enjoy yours with its Native American pictographs and under the exposed rafters in the wood-and- pioneer traces. Further south, soak in concorrugated-metal dining room, or under the crete hot-springs pools at Agua Caliente tree on the back patio. Regional Park (% 760-765-1188; www.sdcounty.

88 Information Pick up park information at NPS visitor centers at Joshua Tree (6554 Park Blvd, Joshua Tree; h 8am-5pm), Oasis (74485 National Park Dr, Twentynine Palms; h 8:30am-5pm) and Cottonwood (Cottonwood Springs, 8 miles north of I-10 Fwy; h 8:30am-4pm), and at Black Rock Nature Center (9800 Black Rock Canyon Rd; h 8am-4pm Sat-Thu, noon-8pm Fri Oct-May; c ). There are no park facilities aside from restrooms, so bring all the drinking water and food you’ll need. Get gas and stock up in the three towns linked by the Twentynine Palms Hwy (Hwy 62) along the park’s northern boundary: Yucca Valley, with the most services (banks, supermarkets etc); beatnik Joshua Tree, where outdoor outfitters and shops offering internet access cluster; and Twentynine Palms, home of the USA’s largest marine base.

A nza-Borrego Desert State Park

Shaped by an ancient sea and tectonic forces, Anza-Borrego is the USA’s largest state park outside Alaska. Cradling the park’s only commercial hub – tiny Borrego Springs (pop 3429) – are more than 600,000 acres of mountains, canyons and badlands; a fab-

ca.gov/parks/; 39555 Rte S2; entry per car $5; h 9:30am-5pm Sep-May).

4 Sleeping & Eating Free backcountry camping without a permit is permitted anywhere in the park at least 100ft from water or roads (no campfires). For country-style B&Bs and famous apple pie, the gold-mining town of Julian (www. julianca.com) is a 30-mile drive southwest of Borrego Springs. Borrego Palm Canyon Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent/ RV sites $25/35; p c# ) Near the visitor

center, this campground has award-winning toilets, close-together campsites and an amphitheater with ranger programs.

Palm Canyon Hotel & RV Resort MOTEL $$ (% 760-767-5341; www.palmcanyonrvresort.com; 221 Palm Canyon Dr, Borrego Springs; d $65-310; p W s c ) For that Old West flair, check into

this welcoming motel, but don’t be fooled: the place was only built in the ’80s! It’s about a mile from the park’s visitor center and has two pools for unwinding, and a restaurant and saloon for sustenance.

105

oBorrego Valley Inn

INN $$$

(% 760-767-0311; www.borregovalleyinn.com; 405 Palm Canyon Dr; r $180-320; p n a W s )

Carlee’s Place AMERICAN $$ (% 760-767-3262; 660 Palm Canyon Dr; mains lunch $8-14, dinner $12-27; h 11am-9pm) Even

though the decor feels like it hasn’t been updated since the 1970s, locals pick Carlee’s for its burgers, pastas and steak dinners. The pool table, live music and karaoke are big draws, too.

88 Information Borrego Springs has banks with ATMs, gas stations, a supermarket, a post office and a public library with free wi-fi and internet terminals, all on Palm Canyon Dr.

Mojave National Preserve

If you’re on a quest for the ‘middle of nowhere,’ you may find it in Mojave National Preserve (% 760-252-6100; www.nps.gov/moja) F, a 1.6-million-acre jumble of sand

dunes, Joshua trees, volcanic cinder cones and habitat for endangered desert tortoises. Warning: no gas is available here. Southeast of Baker and the I-15 Fwy, Kelbaker Rd crosses a ghostly landscape of cinder cones before arriving at Kelso Depot, a 1920s Mission Revival–style railroad station. It now houses the park’s main visitor center (% 760-252-6108; h 9am-5pm), which has excellent natural-and-cultural history exhibits, and an old-fashioned lunch counter. It’s another 11 miles southwest to ‘singing’ Kelso Dunes. When wind conditions are right, they emanate low-pitched vibrations caused by shifting sands – running downhill can jump-start the effect. From Kelso Depot, Kelso–Cima Rd takes off northeast. After 19 miles, Cima Rd slingshots northwest toward I-15 around Cima Dome, a 1500ft-high hunk of granite with lava outcroppings, the slopes of which are home to the world’s largest Joshua tree forest. For close-ups, summit Teutonia Peak (3 miles round-trip); the trailhead is 6 miles northwest of Cima.

East of Anza-Borrego and south of Joshua Tree awaits a most unexpected sight: the Salton Sea (% 760-393-3810; www. parks.ca.gov; per car $5; h visitor center 10am-4pm Oct-May, Fri-Sun only Jun-Sep), California’s largest lake in the middle of its biggest desert. After the Colorado River flooded in 1905, it took 1500 workers and half a million tons of rock to put it back on course. With no natural outlet, the artificial lake’s surface is 220ft below sea level and its waters 50% saltier than the Pacific – an environmental nightmare that’s yet to be cleaned up. An even stranger sight near the lake’s eastern shore is Salvation Mountain (www.salvationmountain.us), a 100ft-high hill of hand-mixed clay slathered in colorful acrylic paint and found objects, and inscribed with Christian messages. It was the vision of folk artist Leonard Knight (1931–2014). It’s in Niland, about 3 miles east of Hwy 111, via Main St/Beal Rd.

Further east, partly paved Mojave Rd is a scenic backdoor route to first-come, first-served campgrounds (campsites $12) with potable water at Mid Hills (no RVs) and Hole-in-the-Wall. The campgrounds bookend a rugged 12-mile scenic drive along dirt Wild Horse Canyon Road, ending near Hole-in-the-Wall’s visitor center (% 760-2526104; h 9am-4pm Wed-Sun Oct-Apr, 10am-4pm Sat May-Sep) and the slot-canyon Rings Loop Trail. Both roads usually don’t require 4WD.

4 Sleeping & Eating Free backcountry and roadside camping is permitted in already impacted areas; ask at the visitor center for details or consult the free park newspaper. For historical ambience, Hotel Nipton (% 760-856-2335; http://nipton.com; 107355 Nipton Rd; cabins/r without bath from $65/80; h reception 8am-6pm; W ) encompasses a century-old ado-

be villa with rustic rooms and tent cabins in a remote railway outpost, northeast of the preserve. Check in at the trading post next to a simple Mexican-American cafe. Off I-15, Baker (35 miles northwest of Kelso) is the nearest town with bare-bones motels and fast food.

Ca li fo rnia M IPalm nformation ojavSeprin N ational g s & thPer eDseesrv e rts e

This petite, immaculately kept inn, filled with Southwestern knickknacks and Native American weavings, is an intimate spa-resort, perfect for adults. There are 15 rooms on 10 acres. One pool is clothing-optional. Most rooms have kitchenettes. The grounds are entirely nonsmoking.

SALTON SEA & SALVATION MOUNTAIN

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Death Valley National Park

Ca li fo rnia D Palm S iegath hts S Vall prin & A ctiviti eg ys N &ational th e se D e s e Park rts

The name itself evokes all that is harsh and hellish – a punishing, barren and lifeless place of Old Testament severity. Yet closer inspection reveals nature puts on a spectacular show of water-sculpted canyons, windswept sand dunes, palm-shaded oases, jagged mountains and wildlife aplenty here. It’s also a land of superlatives, holding the US records for hottest temperature (134°F, or 57°C), lowest point (Badwater, 282ft below sea level) and largest national park outside Alaska (more than 5000 sq miles). Peak tourist season is when spring wildflowers bloom.

1 Sights & Activities In summer, stick to paved roads, limit your exertions outdoors to early morning hours and at night, and visit higher-elevation areas of the park. From Furnace Creek, the central hub of the park (% 760-786-3200; www.nps.gov/deva; 7-day entry per car $20), drive southeast up to Zabriskie Point for spectacular sunset views across the valley and golden badlands eroded into waves, pleats and gullies. Twenty miles southeast at Dante’s View, you can simultaneously spot the highest (Mt Whitney, 14,505ft) and lowest (Badwater) points in the contiguous USA. Badwater itself, a timeless landscape of crinkly salt flats, is 17 miles south of Furnace Creek. Along the way, Golden Canyon and Natural Bridge are easily explored on short hikes. A 9-mile detour along Artists Drive through a narrow canyon is best in late afternoon when the eroded hillsides erupt in fireworks of color. Northwest of Furnace Creek, near Stovepipe Wells Village, trek across Saharan- esque Mesquite Flat sand dunes – magical under a full moon – and scramble along the smooth marble walls of Mosaic Canyon. About 55 miles northwest of Furnace Creek at whimsical Scotty’s Castle (% 877444-6777; www.recreation.gov; tours adult/child from $15/7.50; h grounds 8:30am-4:15pm, tour schedules vary, closed Tue-Thu mid-May–mid-Aug),

tour guides in historical character dress bring to life the Old West tales of con man ‘Death Valley Scotty’ (reservations advised). Five miles west of Grapevine junction, circumambulate volcanic Ubehebe Crater and its younger sibling.

A scenic drive up Emigrant Canyon, starting 8 miles west of Stovepipe Wells, passes turnoffs to ghost towns and ends with a 3-mile unpaved stretch up to the historic beehive-shaped Charcoal Kilns. Nearby is the trailhead for the 8.4-mile round-trip hike up Wildrose Peak (9064ft). At the park’s western edge, utterly remote Panamint Springs offers panoramic vistas and a 2-mile round-trip hike to tiny Darwin Falls. Activities offered at the Ranch at Furnace Creek Ranch resort include horseback riding, golf, mountain biking and hot-springs pool swimming. For 4WD adventures, talk to Farabee’s Jeep Rentals (% 760-786-9872; http://farabeesjeeprentals.com; 2-/4-door Jeep incl 200 miles $195/235; h mid-Sep–late May) near

the Inn at Furnace Creek.

4 Sleeping & Eating In-park lodging is often booked solid, especially on weekends and during the spring wildflower bloom. The closest town with a few roadside motels is Beatty, NV (40 miles northeast of Furnace Creek); many more accommodations are found in Las Vegas, NV (125 miles southeast) and Ridgecrest, CA (125 miles southwest). Ranch at Furnace Creek RESORT $$ (% 760-786-2345; www.furnacecreekresort.com; Hwy 190, Furnace Creek; cabins $130-162, r $162-213; pnaWsc ) Tailor-made for families, this

rambling resort with multiple motel- style buildings has received a vigorous face-lift, resulting in spiffy rooms swathed in desert colors, updated bathrooms and French doors leading to porches with comfortable patio furniture. The grounds encompass a playground, spring-fed swimming pool, tennis courts, restaurants, shops and the Borax Museum (% 760-786-2345; h 9am-9pm Oct-May, variable in summer) F.

Stovepipe Wells Village MOTEL $$ (% 760-786-2387; www.escapetodeathvalley.com; Hwy 190, Stovepipe Wells; RV sites $33, r $117176; p a i W s c # ) The 83 rooms at this

sea-level tourist village are newly sprucedup and have quality linens beneath Death Valley–themed artwork, cheerful Native American–patterned bedspreads, coffeemakers and TVs. The small pool is cool and the cowboy-style Toll Road Restaurant (dinner mains $13-26; h 7-10am & 6-10pm; W c )

serves breakfast and lunch daily.

107 Cynthia’s HOSTEL, INN $$ (% 760-852-4580; www.discovercynthias.com; 2001 Old Spanish Trail Hwy, Tecopa; dm $22-25, r $75-118, tipis $165-225; h check-in 3-8pm; p W )

Inn at Furnace Creek HOTEL $$$ (% 760-786-2345; www.furnacecreekresort.com; Hwy 190; r/ste from $345/450; h mid-Oct–midMay; p naiWs ) Roll out of bed and

count the colors of the desert as you pull back the curtains in your room at this elegant 1927 Mission-style hotel. After a day of sweaty touring, enjoy languid valley views while lounging by the spring-fed swimming pool, cocktail in hand. The lobby has a 1930s retro look.

88 Information Purchase a seven-day entry pass (per car $20) at self-service pay stations throughout the park. For a free map and newspaper, show your receipt at the visitor center (% 760-786-3200; www. nps.gov/deva; h 8am-5pm mid-Oct–mid-Jun, 9am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Oct) in Furnace Creek, where you’ll also find a general store, expensive gas station, post office, ATM, coin-op laundromat and pay showers. Stovepipe Wells Village, a 30-minute drive northwest, has a general store, expensive gas station, ATM and pay showers. Cell-phone reception is spotty to nonexistent in the park.

CENTRAL COAST No trip to California would be worth its salt without a jaunt along the surreally scenic Central Coast. Among California’s most iconic roads, Hwy 1 skirts past posh Santa Barbara, retro Pismo Beach, collegiate San Luis Obispo, fantastical Hearst Castle, soul-stirring Big Sur, cutesy Carmel, downto-earth Monterey and hippie Santa Cruz, often within view of the Pacific. Slow down – this idyllic coast deserves to be savored, not gulped. (That same advice goes for the award-winning locally grown wines too.)

Four miles west of Beatty, NV, look for the turnoff to the ghost town of Rhyolite (www.rhyolitesite.com; off Hwy 374; h sunrise-sunset) F, which epitomizes the hurly-burly, boom-and-bust story of so many Western gold-rush mining towns. Don’t miss the 1906 ‘bottle house’ or the skeletal remains of a three-story bank. Next door is the bizarre Goldwell Open Air Museum (www.goldwellmuseum. org; off Hwy 374; h 24hr) F of trippy art installations begun by Belgian artist Albert Szukalski in 1984.

Santa Barbara

Life is sweet in Santa Barbara, a coastal Shangri-La where the air is redolent of citrus and jasmine, flowery bougainvillea drapes whitewashed buildings with Spanish red-tiled roofs, and it’s all cradled by pearly beaches – just ignore those pesky oil derricks out to sea. Downtown’s main drag, State St, and the Funk Zone, south of the railroad tracks, abound with restaurants, bars, art galleries and boutiques.

1 Sights oMission Santa Barbara

CHURCH

(www.santabarbaramission.org; 2201 Laguna St; adult/child 5-15yr $7/2; h 10am-5pm, last entry 4:15pm; p ) California’s ‘Queen of the Mis-

sions’ reigns above the city on a hilltop perch over a mile northwest of downtown. Its imposing Doric facade, an architectural homage to an ancient Roman chapel, is topped by an unusual twin bell tower. Inside the mission’s 1820 stone church, notice the striking Chumash artwork. Outside is an eerie cemetery – skull carvings hang over the door leading outside – with 4000 Chumash graves and the elaborate mausoleums of early California settlers. Santa Barbara County Courthouse HISTORIC SITE (% 805-962-6464; www.santabarbaracourthouse. org; 1100 Anacapa St; h 8am-4:45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4:15pm Sat & Sun) F Built in Spanish-

Moorish Revival style in 1929, the courthouse features hand-painted ceilings, wrought-iron chandeliers, and tiles from Tunisia and Spain. Step inside the hushed mural room depicting

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Match your budget to the bed at this congenial inn helmed by the friendly Cynthia, about 3 miles from central Tecopa. Your choices: a colorful and eclectically decorated private room in a vintage trailer, a bed in a dorm, or a Native American–style tipi (a short drive away) with thick rugs, fire pits and comfy king-size beds.

RHYOLITE

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Spanish-colonial history on the 2nd floor, then climb El Mirador, the 85ft clock tower, for arch-framed panoramas of the city, ocean and mountains. You’re free to explore on your own, but you’ll get a lot more out of a free docent-guided tour, usually at 2pm daily and 10:30am on weekdays.

Santa Barbara Sailing Center KAYAKING (% 805-962-2826; www.sbsail.com; off Harbor Way; single/double kayak rental per hr $10/15, 2hr kayak tour $50; c ) Just about the cheapest

Santa Barbara Museum of Art MUSEUM (% 805-963-4364; www.sbmuseart.org; 1130 State St; adult/child 6-17yr $10/6, 5-8pm Thu free; h 11am-5pm Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu) This

Condor Express CRUISE (% 805-882-0088, 888-779-4253; www.condorcruises.com; 301 W Cabrillo Blvd; adult/child 5-12yr 2½hr cruise $50/30, 4½hr cruise from $99/50; c )

thoughtfully curated, bite-sized art museum displays European and American masters – think Matisse and Diego Rivera – along with contemporary photography, classical antiquities and thought-provoking temporary exhibits. Traipse up to the 2nd floor, where impressive Asian art collections include an intricate, colorful Tibetan sand mandala and the iron-and-leather armor of a Japanese warrior. Guided tours usually start at 1pm daily. There’s also an interactive children’s space, a museum shop and a cafe. Santa Barbara Maritime Museum MUSEUM (% 805-962-8404; www.sbmm.org; 113 Harbor Way; adult/child 6-17yr $7/4, 3rd Thu of month free; h 10am-5pm, to 6pm late May-early Sep; pc ) On

the harborfront, this jam-packed, two-story exhibition hall celebrates the town’s briny history with nautical artifacts, memorabilia and hands-on exhibits, including a big-game fishing chair from which you can ‘reel in’ a trophy marlin. Take a virtual trip through the Santa Barbara Channel, stand on a surfboard or watch deep-sea diving documentaries in the theater. There’s 90 minutes of free parking in the public lot or take the Lil’ Toot water taxi from Stearns Wharf.

2 Activities Overlooking busy municipal beaches, 1872 Stearns Wharf is the West’s oldest continuously operating wooden pier, strung with touristy shops and restaurants. Outside town off Hwy 101, bigger palm-fringed state beaches await at Carpinteria, 12 miles east, and El Capitan and Refugio, more than 20 miles west. Wheel Fun Rentals CYCLING (www.wheelfunrentals.com; 23 E Cabrillo Blvd; h 8am-8pm Mar-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb; c ) Hour-

ly rentals of beach cruisers ($10), mountain bikes ($11) and two-/four-person surreys ($29/39), with discounted half-day and fullday rates.

kayak rental and guided tours around, with paddling instruction available by prior arrangement. Call for seasonal hours.

Take a whale-watching excursion aboard the high-speed catamaran Condor Express. Whale sightings are guaranteed, so if you miss out the first time, you’ll get a free voucher for another cruise.

4 Sleeping Hello, sticker shock: even basic motel rooms can command over $200 in summer. Less expensive motels line upper State St, north of downtown, and Hwy 101. Santa Barbara Auto Camp CAMPGROUND $$ (% 888-405-7553; http://autocamp.com/sb; 2717 De La Vina St; d $175-215; paW c # ) S

Bed down with vintage style in one of five shiny metal Airstream trailers parked near upper State St, north of downtown. All five architect- designed trailers have unique perks, such as a clawfoot tub or extra twinsize beds for kiddos, as well as a full kitchen and complimentary cruiser bikes to borrow. Book ahead; two-night minimum may apply. Pet fee $25. Agave Inn MOTEL $$ (% 805-687-6009; http://agaveinnsb.com; 3222 State St; r incl breakfast from $119; paW ) While

it’s still just a motel at heart, this boutiqueon-a-budget property’s ‘Mexican pop meets modern’ motif livens things up with a color palette from a Frieda Kahlo painting. Flatscreen TVs, microwaves, minifridges and aircon make it a standout option. Family-sized rooms have kitchenettes and pull-out sofa beds. Continental breakfast included. Harbor House Inn MOTEL $$ (% 888-474-6789, 805-962-9745; www.harborhouseinn.com; 104 Bath St; r from $180; pW # )

Down by the harbor, this converted motel offers brightly lit studios with hardwood floors and a beachy design scheme. A few have full kitchens and fireplaces, but there’s no air-con. Rates include a welcome basket of breakfast goodies (with a two-night minimum stay), and beach towels, chairs and

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umbrellas and three-speed bicycles to borrow. Pet fee $20.

oInn of the

clams, crab cakes and coconut-fried shrimp at wooden picnic tables outside. Awesome lobster bisque, ocean views and the same location for over 25 years.

Spanish Garden BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (% 866-564-4700, 805-564-4700; www.spanish- oLark CALIFORNIAN $$$ gardeninn.com; 915 Garden St; d incl breakfast from (% 805-284-0370; www.thelarksb.com; 131 An$309; paiWs ) At this Spanish Colonial– acapa St; shared plates $5-32, mains $24-38; h 5style inn, casual elegance, top-notch service 10pm Tue-Sun, bar till midnight) S There’s no

and an impossibly romantic central courtyard will have you lording about like the don of your own private villa. Beds have luxurious linens, bathrooms have oversized bathtubs and concierge service is top-notch. Palms surround a small outdoor pool, or unwind with a massage in your room.

5 Eating Lilly’s Taquería MEXICAN $ (http://lillystacos.com; 310 Chapala St; items from $1.60; h 10:30am-9pm Sun-Mon & Wed-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) There’s almost always a line

roping around this downtown taco shack at lunchtime. But it goes fast, so you’d best be snappy with your order – the adobada (marinated pork) and lengua (beef tongue) are standout choices. Second location in Goleta west of the airport, off Hwy 101. Santa Barbara Shellfish Company SEAFOOD $$ (www.sbfishhouse.com; 230 Stearns Wharf; dishes $4-19; h 11am-9pm; pc ) ‘From sea to skillet to

plate’ sums up this end-of-the-wharf seafood shack that’s more of a buzzing counter joint than a sit-down restaurant. Chase away the seagulls as you chow down on garlic-baked

better place in Santa Barbara County to taste the bountiful farm and fishing goodness of this stretch of SoCal coast. Named after an antique Pullman railway car, this chef-run restaurant in the Funk Zone morphs its menu with the seasons, presenting unique flavor combinations like fried olives with chorizo aioli and chili-spiced mussels in lemongrass-lime broth. Make reservations.

6 Drinking & Nightlife Nightlife orbits lower State St and the Funk Zone. You can ramble between a dozen wine-tasting rooms along the city’s Urban Wine Trail (www.urbanwinetrailsb.com). Check the free alt-weekly Santa Barbara Independent (www.independent.com) for an entertainment calendar. Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co BAR (www.figmtnbrew.com; 137 Anacapa St; h 11am11pm) Father and son brewers have brought

their gold-medal-winning hoppy IPA, Danish red lager and double IPA from Santa Barbara’s Wine Country to the Funk Zone. Clink pint glasses on the taproom’s openair patio while acoustic acts play. Enter on Yanonali St.

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Remote, rugged Channel Islands National Park (www.nps.gov/chis) earns the nickname ‘California’s Galápagos’ for its unique wildlife. These islands offer superb snorkel ing, scuba diving and sea kayaking. Spring, when wildflowers bloom, is a gorgeous time to visit; summer and fall are bone-dry, but the latter brings the calmest water and winds; winter can be stormy. Anacapa, an hour’s boat ride from the mainland, is the best island for day-tripping, with easy hikes and unforgettable views. Santa Cruz, the biggest island, is for overnight camping excursions, kayaking and hiking. Other islands require longer channel crossings and multiday trips. San Miguel is often shrouded in fog. Tiny Santa Barbara supports seabird and seal colonies. So does Santa Rosa, which also protects Torrey pine trees. Boats leave from Ventura Harbor, off Hwy 101, where the park’s visitor center (% 805-658-5730; www.nps.gov/chis; 1901 Spinnaker Dr, Ventura; h 8:30am-5pm; c ) has info and maps. The main tour-boat operator is Island Packers (% 805-642-1393; www. islandpackers.com; 1691 Spinnaker Dr, Ventura; 3hr cruise adult/child 3-12yr from $36/26); book ahead. Primitive island campgrounds require reservations; book through Recreation.gov (p440) and bring food and water.

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Santa Barbara Car Free (www.santabarbaracarfree.org) is a helpful website for ecotravel tips and discounts. Santa Barbara Visitors Center (% 805-9653021, 805-568-1811; www.santabarbaraca.com; 1 Garden St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun, closing 1hr earlier Nov-Jan) Pick up maps and brochures while consulting with the helpful, but busy staff. The website offers free downloadable DIY touring maps and itineraries, from famous movie locations to wine trails, art galleries and outdoors fun. Self-pay metered parking lot nearby.

88 Getting There & Around From a downtown bus station (% 805-9657551; www.greyhound.com; 224 Chapala St), Greyhound has a few daily buses to LA ($17, two to three hours) and via San Luis Obispo ($31, two hours) to Santa Cruz ($59, six hours) and San Francisco ($63, nine hours). From the train station (% 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 209 State St) south of downtown, Amtrak trains roll toward LA ($31, 2¾ hours) and San Luis Obispo ($35, 2¾ hours). Metropolitan Transit District (MTD; % 805963-3366; www.sbmtd.gov) runs citywide buses ($1.75). Its electric shuttles (50¢) loop between downtown’s State St and Stearns Wharf and along beachfront Cabrillo Blvd.

Santa Barbara to San Luis Obispo

You can speed up to San Luis Obispo in less than two hours along Hwy 101, or take all day detouring to wineries, historical missions and hidden beaches. A scenic backcountry drive north of Santa Barbara follows Hwy 154, where you can go for the grape in the wine country (www.sbcountywines.com) of the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria Valleys. Ride along with Sustainable Vine (% 805-698-3911; www.sustainablevine.com)

S for ecoconscious winery tours ($150), or

just follow the pastoral Foxen Canyon Wine Trail (www.foxencanyonwinetrail.com) north to discover cult winemakers’ vineyards. In the town of Los Olivos, where two dozen more wine-tasting rooms await, Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café (% 805-688-7265; www.losolivoscafe.com; 2879 Grand Ave; mains breakfast $9-12, lunch & dinner $12-29; h 11:30am-8:30pm daily, also 8-10:30am Sat & Sun) is a charming

Cal-Mediterranean bistro with a wine bar. Further south, the Danish-immigrant village of Solvang (www.solvangusa.com)

abounds with windmills and fairy-tale- esque bakeries. Fuel up on breakfast biscuits, buttermilk fried-chicken sandwiches and farm-fresh salads at Succulent Café (% 805-691-9444; www.succulentcafe.com; 1555 Mission Dr; mains breakfast & lunch $9-13, dinner $19-29; h breakfast 8:30am-noon Sat & Sun, lunch 11am-3pm Mon & Wed-Fri, noon-3pm Sat & Sun, dinner 5-9pm Wed-Mon) S. For a picnic lunch or BBQ takeout, swing into El Rancho Market (http://elranchomarket.com; 2886 Mission Dr; h 6am-11pm), east of Solvang’s 19th-century Spanish colonial mission (% 805-688-4815; www.missionsantaines.org; 1760 Mission Dr; adult/ child under 12yr $5/free; h 9am-4:30pm).

Follow Hwy 246 about 15 miles west of Hwy 101 to La Purísima Mission State His-

toric Park (% 805-733-3713; www.lapurisima mission.org; 2295 Purísima Rd, Lompoc; per car $6; h 9am-5pm; c ) S. Exquisitely restored, it’s

one of California’s most evocative Spanish Colonial missions, with flowering gardens, livestock pens and adobe buildings. South of Lompoc off Hwy 1, Jalama Rd travels 14 twisting miles to windswept Jalama Beach

County Park (% recorded info 805-736-3616; http://cosb.countyofsb.org/parks/; 9999 Jalama Rd, Lompoc; per car $10). Book ahead for its crazy-popular campground (www.sbparks. org/reservations; tent/RV sites from $23/38, cabins $110-210), where simple cabins have

kitchenettes. Where Hwy 1 rejoins Hwy 101, Pismo Beach has a long, lazy stretch of sand and a butterfly grove (www.monarchbutterfly.org; h sunrise-sunset; c ) F, where migratory monarchs perch in eucalyptus trees from late October until February. Adjacent North Beach Campground (% reservations 800-4447275; www.reserveamerica.com; 399 S Dolliver St; tent & RV sites $35; c # ) offers beach access

and hot showers. Dozens of motels and hotels stand by the ocean and along Hwy 101, but rooms fill quickly, especially on weekends. Pismo Lighthouse Suites (% 805-7732411; www.pismolighthousesuites.com; 2411 Price St; ste incl breakfast from $275; i W sc # ) has

everything vacationing families need, even a life-sized outdoor chessboard; ask about off-season discounts. Near Pismo’s seaside pier, Old West Cinnamon Rolls (861 Dolliver St; snacks $2-5; h 6:30am-5:30pm) offers gooey goodness. Uphill at the Cracked Crab

(% 805-773-2722; www.crackedcrab.com; 751 Price St; mains $12-45; h 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; c ), make sure you don a plastic bib

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before a fresh bucket o’ seafood gets dumped on your butcher-paper-covered table. The nearby town of Avila Beach has a sunny waterfront promenade, an atmospherically creaky wooden fishing pier and a historical lighthouse (% guided hike reser-

toward Hwy 101, pick juicy fruit and feed the goats at Avila Valley Barn farmstand (www. avilavalleybarn.com; 560 Avila Beach Dr; h usually 9am-6pm mid-Mar–late-Dec; c ), then do some

stargazing from a private redwood hot tub at Sycamore Mineral Springs (% 805-5957302; www.sycamoresprings.com; 1215 Avila Beach Dr; 1hr per person $13.50-17.50; h 8am-midnight, last reservation 10:45pm).

San Luis Obispo

Halfway between LA and San Francisco, San Luis Obispo is a low-key place. But CalPoly university students inject a healthy dose of hubbub into the streets, bars and cafes, especially during the weekly farmers market (www.downtownslo.com; h 6-9pm Thu; v c ) S, which turns downtown’s Higuera St into a party with live music and sidewalk BBQs. Like several other California towns, SLO grew up around a Spanish Catholic mission (% 805-543-6850; www.missionsanluisobispo. org; 751 Palm St; donation $2; h 9am-5pm late Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov–mid-Mar), founded in 1772

by Junípero Serra. These days, SLO is just a grape’s throw from thriving Edna Valley wineries (www.slowine.com), known for crisp Chardonnay and subtle Pinot Noir.

4 Sleeping SLO’s motel row is north of downtown along Monterey St. Budget and midrange motels and hotels line Hwy 101. HI Hostel Obispo HOSTEL $ (% 805-544-4678; www.hostelobispo.com; 1617 Santa Rosa St; dm $27-31, r from $60, all without bath; h check-in 4:30-10pm; iW ) S On a tree-

lined street near the train station, this solar-powered, avocado-colored hostel inhabits a converted Victorian, which gives it a bit of a B&B feel. Amenities include a kitchen, bike rentals (from $10 per day) and compli-

Madonna Inn HOTEL $$ (% 805-543-3000; www.madonnainn.com; 100 Madonna Rd; r $189-309; ai W sc ) The fan-

tastically campy Madonna Inn is a garish confection visible from Hwy 101. Japanese tourists, vacationing Midwesterners and irony-loving hipsters adore the 110 themed rooms – including Yosemite Rock, Caveman and hot-pink Floral Fantasy (check out photos online). The urinal in the men’s room is a bizarre waterfall. But the best reason to stop here? Old-fashioned cookies from the storybook bakery.

5 Eating & Drinking Downtown abounds with cafes, restaurants, wine bars, brewpubs and the solar-powered Palm Theatre (% 805-541-5161; www. thepalmtheatre.com; 817 Palm St; tickets $5-8) S,

screening indie films.

Firestone Grill BARBECUE $ (www.firestonegrill.com; 1001 Higuera St; dishes $410; h 11am-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat; c ) If

you can stomach huge lines, long waits for a table, and sports-bar-style service, you’ll get to sink your teeth into an authentic Santa Maria–style tri-tip steak sandwich on a toasted garlic roll and a basket of super- crispy fries. Big Sky Café CALIFORNIAN $$ (www.bigskycafe.com; 1121 Broad St; dinner mains $11-22; h 7am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 8am10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun; v ) S Big Sky is a big

room, and still the wait can be long – its tagline is ‘analog food for a digital world.’ Vegetarians have almost as many options as carnivores, and many of the ingredients are sourced locally. Big-plate dinners can be a bit bland, but breakfast (served until 1pm daily) gets top marks. Luna Red FUSION $$$ (% 805-540-5243; www.lunaredslo.com; 1023 Chorro St; shared plates $6-20, mains $20-39; h 11am-9pm Mon-Wed, to 11:30pm Thu & Fri, 9am11:30pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; v ) S Local bounty

from the land and sea, artisan cheeses and farmers-market produce pervade the chef’s Californian, Asian and Mediterranean smallplates menu. Cocktails and glowing lanterns enhance a sophisticated ambience indoors, or linger over brunch on the mission-view garden patio. Reservations recommended.

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vations 805-541-8735, trolley tour reservations 855533-7843; www.sanluislighthouse.org; lighthouse admission adult/child under 12yr $5/free, trolley tour incl admission per adult/child 3-12yr $20/15; h guided hikes usually 8:45am-1pm Wed & Sat, trolley tours usually noon, 1pm & 2pm Wed & Sat). Back

mentary sourdough pancakes and coffee for breakfast. BYOT (bring your own towel).

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San Luis Obispo Car Free (http://slocarfree. org) A helpful website for ecotravel tips and discounts. San Luis Obispo Visitor Center (% 805-7812777; www.visitslo.com; 895 Monterey St; h 10am-5pm Sun-Wed, to 7pm Thu-Sat) Free maps and tourist brochures.

88 Getting There & Around Amtrak trains from Santa Barbara ($28 to $35, 2¾ hours) and LA ($41, 5½ hours) arrive at SLO’s train station (% 800-872-7245; www. amtrak.com; 1011 Railroad Ave), a 10-minute walk from downtown. Inconveniently stopping 3.5 miles southwest of downtown off Hwy 101, Greyhound (% 800-231-2222; www.greyhound. com; 1460 Calle Joaquin) has a few daily buses to Santa Barbara ($31, two hours), LA ($33, 5¼ hours), Santa Cruz ($46, 3¾ hours) and San Francisco ($59, 6¾ hours). You’ll have to call for a taxi to connect to downtown. Operated by SLO RTA (RTA; % 805-541-2228; www.slorta.org; single-ride fares $1.50-3, day pass $5), countywide buses with limited weekend services converge on downtown’s transit center (cnr Palm & Osos Sts).

Morro Bay to Hearst Castle

A dozen miles northwest of San Luis Obispo via Hwy 1, Morro Bay is a sea-sprayed fishing town where Morro Rock, a volcanic peak jutting up from the ocean floor, is your first hint of the coast’s upcoming drama. (Never mind those powerplant smokestacks obscuring the views.) Hop aboard boat cruises or rent kayaks along the Embarcadero, which is packed with touristy shops. A classic seafood shack, Giovanni’s (www. giovannisfishmarket.com; 1001 Front St; mains $615; h 9am-6pm; c ) cooks killer garlic fries

and fish-and-chips. Midrange motels cluster uphill off Harbor and Main Sts and along Hwy 1. Nearby are fantastic state parks for coastal hikes and camping (% reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $20-50; c# ). South of the Embarcadero, Morro Bay State Park (% 805-7722694; www.parks.ca.gov; park entry free, museum admission adult/child under 17yr $3/free; h museum 10am-5pm) has a natural-history museum

for kids. Further south in Los Osos, west of Hwy 1, wilder Montaña de Oro State Park (% 805-772-7434; www.parks.ca.gov; 3550 Pecho Valley Rd, Los Osos; h 6am-10pm) F features

coastal bluffs, tide pools, sand dunes, peak hiking and mountain-biking trails. Its Spanish name (which means ‘mountain of gold’) comes from native California poppies that blanket the hillsides in spring. Heading north of downtown Morro Bay along Hwy 1, surfers love the Cal-Mexican Taco Temple (2680 Main St; mains $8-20; h 11am-9pm Wed-Mon; c ), a cash-only joint, and Ruddell’s Smokehouse (www.smokerjim.com; 101 D St; dishes $4-13; h 11am-6pm; c # ), serving smoked-fish tacos by the

beach in Cayucos. Vintage motels on Cayucos’ Ocean Ave include the cute, family-run

Seaside Motel (% 805-995-3809; www.seasidemotel.com; 42 S Ocean Ave; d $80-160; W ).

You can fall asleep to the sound of the surf at the ocean-view Shoreline Inn on the Beach (% 805-995-3681; www.cayucosshorelineinn.com; 1 N Ocean Ave; r $139-199; c # ).

North of Harmony (population: just 18 souls), Hwy 46 leads east into the vineyards of Paso Robles wine country (www.pasowine. com). Tired of wine? Off Hwy 101 in Paso Robles, Firestone Walker Brewing Company (% 805-225-5911; www.firestonebeer.com; 1400 Ramada Dr; h tasting room 10am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun, tours 10:30am-3:30pm) offers brew-

ery tours ($3; reservations recommended), or just stop by the taproom for samples. Further north along Hwy 1, quaint Cambria has lodgings along unearthly pretty Moonstone Beach, where the Blue Dolphin Inn (% 805-927-3300; www.cambriainns.com; 6470 Moonstone Beach Dr; r from $199; W # )

embraces modern rooms with romantic fireplaces. Inland, HI Cambria Bridge Street

Inn (% 805-927-7653; www.bridgestreetinncambria.com; 4314 Bridge St; dm from $32, r $57-95, all without bath; h check-in 5-9pm; W ) sleeps

like a hostel but feels like a grandmotherly B&B, while the retro Cambria Palms Motel (% 805-927-4485; www.cambriapalmsmotel.com; 2662 Main St; r $109-149; h check-in 3-9pm; W )

has clean-lined rooms and cruiser bicycles to borrow. An artisan cheese and wine shop, Indigo Moon (% 805-927-2911; www.indigomooncafe.com; 1980 Main St; lunch $9-14, dinner $14-33; h 10am-9pm) has breezy bistro tables

and market-fresh salads and sandwiches at lunch. With a sunny patio and takeout counter, Linn’s Easy as Pie Cafe (www.linnsfruitbin.com; 4251 Bridge St; dishes $6-11; h 10am6pm Oct-Apr, to 7pm May-Sep; c ) is famous for

its olallieberry pie. About 10 miles north of Cambria, hilltop Hearst Castle (% info 805-927-2020,

113 reservations 800-444-4445; www.hearstcastle.org; 750 Hearst Castle Rd, San Simeon; tours adult/ child 5-12yr from $25/12; h from 9am daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas & New Year’s Day, closing time varies) is California’s most famous mon-

San Simeon Rd; mains $7-12; h 11am-5pm, kitchen closes at 4pm) sells Hearst Ranch beef burgers

and giant sandwiches for impromptu beach picnics. Five miles back south along Hwy 1, past a forgettable row of budget and midrange motels in San Simeon, Hearst San Simeon State Park (% reservations 800-4447275; www.reserveamerica.com; Hwy 1; tent & RV sites $20-25) offers primitive and developed

creekside campsites. Heading north, Point Piedras Blancas is home to an enormous elephant seal colony that breeds, molts, sleeps, frolics and, occasionally, goes aggro on the beach. Keep your distance from these wild animals who move faster on the sand than you can. The signposted vista point, about 4.5 miles north of Hearst Castle, has interpretive panels. Seals haul out year-round, but the frenzied birthing and mating season runs from January through March. Nearby, the 1875 Piedras Blancas Light Station (% 805-9277361; www.piedrasblancas.gov; tours adult/child 6-17yr $10/5; h tours usually 9:45am Mon-Sat mid-Jun–Aug, 9:45am Tue, Thu & Sat Sep–mid-Jun)

is an outstandingly scenic spot; call ahead to confirm tour schedules (no reservations) and directions to the meet-up point.

Big Sur

Much ink has been spilled extolling the raw beauty and energy of this 100-mile stretch of craggy coastline sprawling south of Monterey Bay. More a state of mind than a place you can pinpoint on a map, Big Sur has no traffic lights, banks or strip malls. When the sun goes down, the moon and stars are the only illumination – if summer fog hasn’t extinguished them, that is. Lodging, food and gas are all scarce and pricey in Big Sur. Demand for rooms is high

Named for the towering spires that rise abruptly out of the chapparal-covered hills, Pinnacles National Park (% 831389-4486; www.nps.gov/pinn; per car $10) is a study in geologic drama, with craggy monoliths, sheer-walled canyons and ancient volcanic remnants. Besides hiking and rock climbing, the park’s biggest attractions are talus caves and endangered California condors. Visit during spring or fall – summer heat and humidity are extreme. A campground (% 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; tent/ RV sites $23/36; sc# ) with a seasonal swimming pool lies near the park’s east entrance, off Hwy 25 about 30 miles northwest of King City on Hwy 101.

year-round, especially on weekends, so book ahead. The free Big Sur Guide (www.bigsurcalifornia.org), an info-packed newspaper, is available at roadside businesses. The dayuse parking fee (per car $10) charged at Big Sur’s state parks is valid for same-day entry to all except Limekiln. It’s about 25 miles from Hearst Castle to blink-and-you-miss-it Gorda, home of Treebones Resort (% 877-424-4787, 805-927-2390; www.treebonesresort.com; 71895 Hwy 1; d without bath from $265; W s ), which offers back-to-

nature clifftop yurts. Basic United States Forest Service (USFS) campgrounds are just off Hwy 1 at shady Plaskett Creek (% res-

ervations 877-477-6777; www.recreation.gov; Hwy 1; tent & RV sites $25) and oceanside Kirk Creek (% reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; Hwy 1; tent & RV sites $25). Ten miles north of Lucia is new-agey Esalen Institute (% 888-837-2536; www.esalen. org; 55000 Hwy 1), famous for its esoteric

workshops and ocean-view hot springs. By reservation only (call % 831-667-3047 between 9am and noon daily), you can frolic nekkid in the baths from 1am to 3am nightly ($30, credit cards only). It’s surreal. Another 3 miles north, Julia Pfeiffer

Burns State Park (% 831-667-2315; www. parks.ca.gov; Hwy 1; per car $10; h 30min before sunrise-30min after sunset; c ) hides 80ft-high

McWay Falls, one of California’s only coastal waterfalls. From the viewpoint, you can photograph it tumbling over granite cliffs into the ocean – or onto the beach, depending on the tide.

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ument to wealth and ambition. William Randolph Hearst, the newspaper magnate, entertained Hollywood stars and royalty at this fantasy estate dripping with European antiques, accented by shimmering pools and surrounded by flowering gardens. Try to make tour reservations in advance or show up early in the day. Across Hwy 1, overlooking a historic whaling pier, Sebastian’s Store (442 SLO-

PINNACLES NATIONAL PARK

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DRIVING HIGHWAY 1

Ca li fo rnia C G arm e ntral ttin e lg TChoast e r e & A round

Navigating the narrow two-lane highway through Big Sur can be slow going. Allow at least 2½ hours to drive nonstop between Hearst Castle and Monterey Bay, much more if you stop to explore. Driving after dark can be risky and, more to the point, it’s futile because you’ll miss all the scenery. Watch out for cyclists and please use signposted roadside pullouts to let faster-moving traffic pass. For current road conditions and temporary closures, call % 800427-7623.

Over 7 miles further north, the beatnik

Henry Miller Memorial Library (% 831-6672574; www.henrymiller.org; 48603 Hwy 1; h 11am6pm) is the art and soul of Big Sur bohemia,

with a jam-packed bookstore, live-music concerts, open-mic nights and outdoor film screenings. Opposite, food takes a backseat to dramatic panoramic views at clifftop Nepenthe (% 831-667-2345; www.nepenthebigsur.com; 48510 Hwy 1; mains $15-42; h 11:30am-4:30pm & 5-10pm), meaning ‘island of no sorrow.’ Heading north, rangers at Big Sur Station (% 831-667-2315; www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf; 47555 Hwy 1; h 8am-4pm, closed Mon & Tue Nov-Mar)

have information on area camping and hiking, including the popular 10-mile one-way hike to Sykes Hot Springs. On the opposite side of Hwy 1 just south, turn onto Sycamore Canyon Rd, which drops two narrow, twisting miles to crescent-shaped Pfeiffer Beach

(www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf; end of Sycamore Canyon Rd; per car $10; h 9am-8pm; # ), with a towering

offshore sea arch. Strong currents make it too dangerous for swimming. Dig down into the sand – it’s purple! Next up, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

(% 831-667-2315; www.parks.ca.gov; 47225 Hwy 1; per car $10; h 30min before sunrise-30min after sunset; c ) is crisscrossed by sun- dappled trails through redwood forests. Make campground (% reservations 800-444-7275; www. reserveamerica.com; 47225 Hwy 1; tent & RV sites $35-50; c# ) reservations or stay at the rambling, old-fashioned Big Sur Lodge (% 831-667-3100; www.bigsurlodge.com; 47225 Hwy 1; d $205-395; sc ), which has rustic

duplex cottages (some with kitchenettes and wood-burning fireplaces), a simple restaurant and a well-stocked general store.

Most of Big Sur’s commercial activity is concentrated just north along Hwy 1, including private campgrounds with rustic cabins, motels, restaurants, gas stations and shops.

Glen Oaks Motel (% 831-667-2105; www.glen oaksbigsur.com; 47080 Hwy 1; d $225-390; W ) S

is a redesigned 1950s redwood-and-adobe motor lodge with romantic, woodsy cabins and cottages. Nearby, the Big Sur River Inn’s general store (www.bigsurriverinn.com; 46840 Hwy 1; mains $8-10; h 11am-7pm; c ) hides a

burrito and fruit-smoothie bar at the back, while Maiden Publick House (% 831-6672355; Village Center Shops, Hwy 1; h noon-2am)

pulls off an encyclopedic beer menu and live-music jams. Back south by the post office, put together a picnic at Big Sur Deli (www.bigsurdeli.com; 47520 Hwy 1; dishes $2-7; h 7am-8pm), attached to the laid-back Big Sur Taphouse (www.bigsurtaphouse.com; 47520 Hwy 1; h noon-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; W ), a beer-centric bar

with board games and pub grub. Heading north again, don’t skip Andrew

Molera State Park (% 831-667-2315; www. parks.ca.gov; Hwy 1; per car $10; h 30min before sunrise-30min after sunset; c ), a gorgeous trail-

laced pastiche of grassy meadows, waterfalls, ocean bluffs and rugged beaches. Learn all about endangered California condors at the park’s Discovery Center (% 831-624-1202; www.ventanaws.org/discovery_center/; h 10am4pm Sat & Sun late May-early Sep; c ) SF.

From the dirt parking lot, a 0.3-mile trail leads to a primitive, no-reservations campground (www.parks.ca.gov; Hwy 1; tent sites $25). Six miles before the landmark Bixby Creek Bridge, you can tour 1889 Point

Sur Lightstation (% 831-625-4419; www.pointsur.org; off Hwy 1; adult/child 6-17yr from $12/5; h tours usually at 1pm Wed, 10am Sat & Sun NovMar, 10am & 2pm Wed & Sat, 10am Sun Apr-Oct, also 10am Thu Jul & Aug). Check online or call for

tour schedules, including seasonal moonlight walks, and directions to the meeting point. Arrive early since space is limited (no reservations).

Carmel

Once a bohemian artists’ seaside resort, quaint Carmel-by-the-Sea now has the well-manicured feel of a country club. Simply plop down in any cafe and watch the parade of behatted ladies toting fancy-label shopping bags and dapper gents driving top-

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down convertibles along Ocean Ave, the village’s slow-mo main drag.

1 Sights & Activities San Carlos Borroméo de Carmelo Mission CHURCH (www.carmelmission.org; 3080 Rio Rd; adult/child 7-17yr $6.50/2; h 9:30am-7pm) Monterey’s

original mission was established by Franciscan friar Junípero Serra in 1770, but poor soil and the corrupting influence of Spanish soldiers forced the move to Carmel two years later. Today this is one of California’s most strikingly beautiful missions, an oasis of solemnity bathed in flowering gardens. The mission’s adobe chapel was later replaced with an arched basilica made of stone quarried in the Santa Lucia Mountains. Museum exhibits are scattered throughout the meditative complex. Point Lobos State Natural Reserve PARK (% 831-624-4909; www.pointlobos.org; Hwy 1; per car $10; h 8am-7pm, closes 30min after sunset early Nov–mid-Mar; c ) They bark, they bathe and

they’re fun to watch – sea lions are the stars here at Punta de los Lobos Marinos (Point of the Sea Wolves), almost 4 miles south of Carmel, where a dramatically rocky coastline offers excellent tide-pooling. The full perimeter hike is 6 miles, but shorter walks take in wild scenery too, including Bird Island, shady cypress groves, the historical Whaler’s Cabin and Devil’s Cauldron, a whirlpool that gets splashy at high tide.

5 Eating & Drinking Bruno’s Market & Deli DELI, MARKET $ (www.brunosmarket.com; cnr 6th & Junípero Aves; sandwiches $6-9; h 7am-8pm) This small

supermarket deli counter makes a saucy sandwich of oakwood-grilled tri-tip beef and stocks all the accoutrements for a beach picnic, including Sparkys root beer from Pacific Grove. Mundaka SPANISH, TAPAS $$ (% 831-624-7400; www.mundakacarmel.com; San Carlos St, btwn Ocean & 7th Aves; small plates $625; h 5:30-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat) This

stone courtyard hideaway is a svelte escape from Carmel’s stuffy ‘newly wed and nearly dead’ crowd. Taste Spanish tapas and housemade sangria while world beats spin.

Working-class Monterey is all about the sea. It lures visitors with a top-notch aquarium that’s a veritable temple to Monterey Bay’s underwater universe. A National Marine Sanctuary since 1992, the bay begs for exploration by kayak, boat, scuba or snorkel. Meanwhile, downtown’s historic quarter preserves California’s Spanish and Mexican roots. Don’t waste too much time on touristy Fisherman’s Wharf or Cannery Row, the latter immortalized by novelist John Steinbeck back when it was the hectic, smelly epicenter of the sardine-canning industry, Monterey’s lifeblood until the 1950s.

1 Sights oMonterey Bay Aquarium

AQUARIUM

(% info 831-648-4800, tickets 866-963-9645; www.montereybayaquarium.org; 886 Cannery Row; adult/child 3-12yr/youth 13-17yr $40/25/30; h 9:30am-6pm daily Jun, 9:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun Jul-Aug, 10am-5pm or 6pm daily Sep-May; c ) S Monterey’s most mesmeriz-

ing experience is its enormous aquarium, built on the former site of the city’s largest sardine cannery. All kinds of aquatic creatures are featured, from kid-tolerant sea stars and slimy sea slugs to animated sea otters and surprisingly nimble 800lb tuna. The aquarium is much more than an impressive collection of glass tanks – thoughtful placards underscore the bay’s cultural and historical contexts. Monterey State Historic Park HISTORIC SITE (% audio tour 831-998-9458, info 831-649-7118; www.parks.ca.gov) SF Old Monterey is

home to an extraordinary assemblage of 19th-century brick and adobe buildings, administered as Monterey State Historic Park, all found along a 2-mile self-guided walking tour portentously called the ‘Path of History.’ You can inspect dozens of buildings, many with charming gardens; expect some to be open while others aren’t, according to a capricious schedule dictated by unfortunate state-park budget cutbacks. Point Pinos Lighthouse LIGHTHOUSE (% 831-648-3176; www.pointpinoslighthouse.org; 90 Asilomar Ave; suggested donation adult/child 6-17yr $2/1; h 1-4pm Thu-Mon) The West Coast’s

oldest continuously operating lighthouse has been warning ships off the hazardous tip of the Monterey Peninsula since 1855. Inside

Ca li fo rnia M C ieont S gntral hts e r&e yCAoast ctiviti e s

Often foggy, municipal Carmel Beach is a gorgeous white-sand crescent, where pampered pups excitedly run off-leash.

Monterey

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are modest exhibits on the lighthouse’s history and alas, its failures – local shipwrecks. Monarch Grove Sanctuary PARK (www.ci.pg.ca.us; off Ridge Rd, btwn Lighthouse Ave & Short St; h dawn-dusk; c ) SF Between

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October and February, over 25,000 migratory monarch butterflies cluster in this thicket of tall eucalyptus trees, secreted inland. During peak season, volunteer guides answer all of your questions.

2 Activities Year-round, whale-watching boats depart from Fisherman’s Wharf. Cycle or walk the paved Monterey Peninsula Recreation Trail, which edges the coast past Cannery Row, ending at Lovers Point in Pacific Grove. The overhyped 17-Mile Drive (www.pebblebeach.com; per car/bicycle $10/free) toll road connects Monterey and Pacific Grove with Carmel-by-the-Sea. Adventures by the Sea CYCLING, KAYAKING (% 831-372-1807; www.adventuresbythesea.com; 299 Cannery Row; rental per day kayak or bicycle $30, SUP set $50, tours from $60; c ) Beach cruisers,

electric bikes and water-sports gear rentals and tours available at multiple locations on Cannery Row and downtown (% 831-372-1807; www.adventuresbythesea.com; 210 Alvarado St; c ). Aquarius Dive Shop DIVING (% 831-375-1933; www.aquariusdivers.com; 2040 Del Monte Ave; snorkel/scuba-gear rental $35/65, dive tours from $65) Talk to this five-star PADI

operation for gear rentals, classes and guided dives into Monterey Bay.

Sanctuary Cruises WHALE-WATCHING (% 831-917-1042; www.sanctuarycruises.com; 7881 Sandholdt Rd; adult/child 12yr & under $50/40; c )

S Departing from Moss Landing, 20 miles

mixed dorms, as well as private rooms (call for rates). Budget backpackers stuff themselves silly with make-your-own pancake breakfasts. Reservations strongly recommended. Take MST bus 1 from downtown’s Transit Plaza. Monterey Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (% 831-375-3184; www.montereyhotel.com; 406 Alvarado St; r $80-220; W ) In the heart of down-

town and a short walk from Fisherman’s Wharf, this 1904 edifice harbors five-dozen small, somewhat noisy, but freshly renovated rooms with Victorian-styled furniture and plantation shutters. No elevator. Parking is $17.

oInterContinental–Clement

HOTEL $$$

(% 831-375-4500, 866-781-2406; www.ictheclementmonterey.com; 750 Cannery Row; r from $250; a i W s c ) Like an upscale version

of a New England millionaire’s seaside mansion, this all-encompassing resort presides over Cannery Row. For the utmost luxury and romance, book an ocean-view suite with a balcony and private fireplace, then breakfast in bayfront C Restaurant downstairs. Parking is $23.

5 Eating Restaurants, bars and live-music venues line Cannery Row and downtown’s Alvarado St. LouLou’s Griddle in the Middle AMERICAN $$ (www.loulousgriddle.com; Municipal Wharf 2; mains $8-16; h usually 7:30am-3pm & 5-8:30pm Wed-Mon; c# ) Stroll down the municipal wharf to this

zany diner, best for breakfasts of ginormous pancakes and omelets with Mexican pico de gallo salsa or fresh seafood for lunch. Breezy outdoor tables are dog friendly. Red House Cafe

CAFE $$

north of Monterey, this biodiesel boat runs (% 831-643-1060; www.redhousecafe.com; 662 recommended whale-watching and dolphin- Lighthouse Ave; mains breakfast & lunch $8-14, spotting tours (reservations essential). dinner $12-23; h 8am-2:30pm daily, 5-9pm TueSun; c ) Crowded with locals, this shingled Sleeping late-19th-century house dishes up comfort No-frills motels (which are exorbitantly food with haute touches, like cinnamon-bripriced in summer) are found on Munras Ave oche French toast, grilled eggplant-fontina south of downtown and N Fremont St east sandwiches or spinach-cheese ravioli in lemon beurre blanc sauce. Oatmeal-apricot- of Hwy 1. pecan cookies are what’s for dessert. ReserHI Monterey Hostel HOSTEL $ vations helpful.

(% 831-649-0375; www.montereyhostel.org; 778 Hawthorne St; dm $27-37, d $79-199, all without bath; h check-in 4-10pm; iW ) Four blocks

from Cannery Row and the aquarium, this simple, clean hostel houses single-sex and

oPassionfish

SEAFOOD $$$

(% 831-655-3311; www.passionfish.net; 701 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove; mains $16-32; h 5-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) S Fresh, sustainable

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88 Information Monterey Visitors Center (% 831-657-6400, 888-221-1010; www.seemonterey.com; 401 Camino El Estero; h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun, closing 1hr earlier Nov-Mar) Free tourist brochures; ask for a Monterey County Literary & Film Map.

88 Getting There & Around Regional and local Monterey-Salinas Transit (MST; % 888-678-2871; www.mst.org; single- ride fares $1.50-3.50, day pass $10) buses converge on downtown’s Transit Plaza (cnr Pearl & Alvarado Sts), including routes to Pacific Grove, Carmel, Big Sur (daily in summer, otherwise weekends only) and Salinas (for Greyhound bus and Amtrak train connections). During summer, free trolleys shuttle between downtown Monterey and Cannery Row.

Santa Cruz

SoCal beach culture meets NorCal counterculture here. The university student population makes this old-school radical town youthful, hip and lefty-liberal. Some worry that Santa Cruz’ weirdness quotient is dropping, but you’ll disagree when you witness the freak show (and we say that with love, man) along Pacific Ave downtown.

1 Sights & Activities You’ll find the most action at Main Beach, about a mile south of downtown. Locals favor less-trampled beaches off E Cliff Dr.

oSanta Cruz

Beach Boardwalk AMUSEMENT PARK (% 831-423-5590; www.beachboardwalk.com; 400 Beach St; per ride $3-6, all-day pass $32-40; h daily Apr-early Sep, seasonal hours vary; c ) The

West Coast’s oldest beachfront amusement park, this 1907 boardwalk has a glorious oldschool Americana vibe. The smell of cotton candy mixes with the salt air, punctuated by the squeals of kids hanging upside down on

carnival rides. Famous thrills include the Giant Dipper, a 1924 wooden roller coaster, and the 1911 Looff carousel, both National Historic Landmarks. During summer, catch free midweek movies and Friday-night concerts by rock veterans you may have thought were already dead. Santa Cruz Surfing Museum MUSEUM (www.santacruzsurfingmuseum.org; 701 W Cliff Dr; admission by donation; h 10am-5pm Wed-Mon Jul 4-early Sep, noon-4pm Thu-Mon early Sep-Jul 3) A

mile southwest of the wharf along the coast, this tiny museum inside an old lighthouse is packed with memorabilia, including vintage redwood surfboards. Fittingly, Lighthouse Point overlooks two popular surf breaks. Natural Bridges State Beach BEACH (www.parks.ca.gov; 2531 W Cliff Dr; per car $10; h 8am-sunset; c ) Best for sunsets, this family

favorite has lots of sand, tide pools and monarch butterflies from mid-October through mid-February. It’s at the far end of W Cliff Dr. Seymour Marine Discovery Center MUSEUM (% 831-459-3800; http://seymourcenter.ucsc.edu; 100 Shaffer Rd; adult/child 3-16yr $8/6; h 10am5pm Tue-Sun year-round, also 10am-5pm Mon Jul & Aug; c ) S By Natural Bridges State Beach,

this kids’ educational center is part of UCSC’s Long Marine Laboratory. Interactive natural- science exhibits include tidal touch pools and aquariums, while outside you can gawk at the world’s largest blue-whale skeleton. Guided one-hour tours happen at 1pm, 2pm and 3pm daily, with a special half-hour tour for families with younger children at 11am; sign up for tours in person an hour in advance (no reservations). Venture Quest KAYAKING (% 831-425-8445, 831-427-2267; www.kayaksantacruz.com; Municipal Wharf; kayak rental/tour from $30/55; h 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun late May-late Sep, hours vary late Sep–midMay) Convenient rentals on the wharf, plus

whale-watching and coastal sea-cave tours, moonlight paddles and kayak-sailing trips. Book ahead for kayak-surfing lessons.

O’Neill Surf Shop SURFING (% 831-475-4151; www.oneill.com; 1115 41st Ave; wetsuit/surfboard rental from $10/20; h 9am8pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun) Head east

toward Pleasure Point to worship at this internationally renowned surfboard maker’s flagship store, with branches on the beach boardwalk and downtown.

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seafood is artfully presented in any number of inventive ways, and a seasonally inspired menu also carries slow-cooked meats and vegetarian dishes spotlighting local farms. The earth-tone decor is spare, with tables squeezed conversationally close together. An ambitious world-ranging wine list is priced near retail, and there are twice as many Chinese teas as wines by the glass. Reservations strongly recommended.

118 Richard Schmidt Surf School SURFING (% 831-423-0928; www.richardschmidt.com; 849 Almar Ave; 2hr group/1hr private lesson $90/120)

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Award-winning, time-tested surf school can get you out there, all equipment included. Summer surf camps hook adults and kids alike.

4 Sleeping Motels border Ocean St near downtown, Mission St by the university campus and Hwy 1 heading south. Make reservations for state-park campgrounds (% reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $35-65; c# ) by beaches off Hwy 1 and

in redwood forests off Hwy 9.

HI Santa Cruz Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 831-423-8304; www.hi-santacruz.org; 321 Main St; dm $26-29, r $60-110, all without bath; h checkin 5-10pm; i ) Budget overnighters dig this

cute hostel at the century-old Carmelita Cottages surrounded by flowering gardens, just two blocks from the beach. Cons: midnight curfew, daytime lockout (11am to 5pm) and three-night maximum stay. Reservations are essential. Street parking costs $2.

oAdobe on Green B&B

B&B $$

(% 831-469-9866; www.adobeongreen.com; 103 Green St; r incl breakfast $169-219; W ) S Peace

and quiet are the mantras at this place, a short walk from Pacific Ave. The hosts are practically invisible, but their thoughtful touches are everywhere, from boutique- hotel amenities in spacious, stylish and solar-powered rooms to breakfast spreads from their organic gardens. Pelican Point Inn INN $$ (% 831-475-3381; www.pelicanpointinn-santacruz. com; 21345 E Cliff Dr; ste $139-219; W c # ) Ideal

for families, these roomy apartments near a kid-friendly beach come with everything you’ll need for a lazy vacation, including kitchenettes. Weekly rates available. Pet fee $20. Dream Inn HOTEL $$$ (% 866-774-7735, 831-426-4330; www.dreaminnsantacruz.com; 175 W Cliff Dr; r $249-479; aiWsc ) Overlooking the wharf from

a spectacular hillside perch, this chic boutique hotel is as stylish as Santa Cruz gets. Rooms have all mod cons, while the beach is just steps away. Don’t miss happy hour at Aquarius restaurant’s ocean-view bar. Parking is $25.

5 Eating Downtown is chockablock with so-so cafes. Mission St near the university campus and 41st Ave in neighboring Capitola offer cheaper takeout and international flavors. Picnic Basket DELI $ (http://thepicnicbasketsc.com; 125 Beach St; dishes $3-10; h 7am-9pm, shorter off-season hours; c ) Across the street from the beach board-

walk, this locavarian kitchen puts together creative sandwiches such as beet with lemony couscous or ‘fancy pants’ grilled cheese with fruit chutney, plus homemade soups, breakfast burritos and baked goods. Staff can be sour, but ice-cream treats are sweet. Pono Hawaiian Grill FUSION $$ (www.ponohawaiiangrill.com; 120 Union St; mains $7-15; h 11am-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat)

Inside the Reef bar, this kitchen runs on ‘island time’ as it mixes up your fresh ahi tuna, salmon, shellfish or veggie poke (cubed raw salad) in a bowl or ladled on a plate with two-scoop rice and creamy macaroni or tossed green salad. The loco moco burrito with spicy gravy is a huge hit. Soif BISTRO $$$ (% 831-423-2020; www.soifwine.com; 105 Walnut Ave; small plates $5-17, mains $19-25; h 5-9pm SunThu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) Bon vivants swoon over a

heady selection of three dozen international wines by the glass, paired with a sophisticated, seasonally driven Euro-Cal menu. Expect tastebud-ticklers like roasted beet salad with fava beans and maple vinaigrette or squidink linguini with spicy chorizo.

6 Drinking & Nightlife Downtown is jam-packed with bars, live- music lounges, low-key nightclubs and coffee houses. Check the free Good Times Santa Cruz (www.gtweekly.com) tabloid for more venues and current events.

oVerve Coffee Roasters

CAFE

(www.vervecoffeeroasters.com; 1540 Pacific Ave; h 6:30am-9pm; W ) To sip finely roasted ar-

tisan espresso or a cup of rich pour-over coffee, join the surfers and hipsters at this industrial-zen cafe. Single-origin brews and house blends rule. Caffe Pergolesi CAFE (www.theperg.com; 418 Cedar St; h 7am-11pm; W )

Discuss conspiracy theories over stalwart coffee, tea or beer at this landmark Victori-

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an house with a big ol’ tree-shaded veranda. There’s live music some evenings. Discretion Brewing BREWERY (www.discretionbrewing.com; 2703 41st Ave, Soquel; h 11:30am-9pm) Rye IPA, English ales

88 Information KPIG 107.5 FM (www.kpig.com) Streams the classic Santa Cruz soundtrack – think Bob Marley, Janis Joplin and Willie Nelson. Santa Cruz Visitor Center (% 831-425-1234; www.santacruzca.org; 303 Water St; h 9amnoon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun; i ) Free public internet terminal, maps and brochures.

88 Getting There & Around Local and regional Santa Cruz Metro (% 831425-8600; www.scmtd.com; single ride/day pass $2/6) buses converge on downtown’s Metro Center (920 Pacific Ave). From there, Greyhound operates a few daily buses to San Francisco ($20, three hours), San Luis Obispo ($46, 3¾ hours), Santa Barbara ($59, six hours) and LA ($65, 8¾ hours). During summer, a trolley (25¢) shuttles between downtown and Main Beach and the wharf.

Santa Cruz to San Francisco

Far more scenic than any freeway, this curvaceous, 70-mile stretch of coastal Hwy 1 is bordered by wild beaches, organic farms and sea-salted villages, all scattered like loose diamonds in the rough. About 20 miles northwest of Santa Cruz, Año Nuevo State Reserve (% information 650879-0227, tour reservations 800-444-4445; www. parks.ca.gov; off Hwy 1; entry per car $10, 2½hr tour per person $7; h 8:30am-5pm, last entry 3:30pm Apr-Nov, tours only mid-Dec–Mar) is the seasonal

home of a gigantic colony of elephant seals. Book well in advance for a guided walking tour, given during the cacophonous winter birthing and mating season. On a windswept coastal perch further north, HI Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel (% 650-879-0633; www.norcalhostels.org/ pigeon; 210 Pigeon Point Rd; dm $26-31, d/tr from $76/104, all without bath; iWc ) S inhabits

historic lightkeepers’ quarters; it’s popular, so reserve ahead. For more creature comforts, backtrack 4 miles south to bed down in a tent bungalow or a fireplace cabin at

Five miles north of Pigeon Point, turn off at Pescadero State Beach (www.parks. ca.gov; off Hwy 1; per car $8; h 8am-sunset) and drive a few miles inland to Pescadero village. Pick up picnic supplies at the bakery-deli inside Arcangeli Grocery Co (Norm’s Market;

www.normsmarket.com; 287 Stage Rd; h 10am6pm). Nearby, family-owned Harley Farms Cheese Shop (% 650-879-0480; http://harley farms.com; 250 North St; 2hr tour adult/child $20/10; h 10am-5pm; c ) offers goat-dairy

farm tours by reservation. Another 15 miles north, busy Half Moon Bay is bordered by 4-mile-long Half Moon

Bay State Beach (www.parks.ca.gov; off Hwy 1; per car $10; h 8am-sunset; c ), which has

scenic campgrounds. Get out on the water with Half Moon Bay Kayak (% 650-773-6101;

www.hmbkayak.com; 2 Johnson Pier; kayak/SUP rental per hour from $25; h 9am-5pm Wed-Mon, last rental 3:30pm). Offshore from Pillar Point

Harbor, which has a decent brewpub with a sunset-view patio, dangerous Mavericks surf break attracts the world’s top big-wave riders in winter. In Half Moon Bay’s quaint downtown, eclectic shops, cafes and restaurants line Main St, just inland from Hwy 1. North of Moss Beach off Hwy 1, Fitzger-

ald Marine Reserve (% 650-728-3584; www. fitzgeraldreserve.org; 200 Nevada Ave; h 8am- sunset; c ) SF protects tide pools teem-

ing with colorful sea life; time your visit for low tide. Another mile north, HI Point Mon-

tara Lighthouse Hostel (% 650-728-7177; www.norcalhostels.org/montara; cnr Hwy 1 & 16th St; dm $27-30, r $78-107, all without bath; i W )

S perches on an ocean bluff (reservations

essential). From there, it’s less than 20 miles to San Francisco via beachy Pacifica and the Devil’s Slide Tunnels.

SAN FRANCISCO & THE BAY AREA San Francisco

If you’ve ever wondered where the envelope goes when it’s pushed, here’s your answer. Good times and social revolutions have often started here, from manic gold rushes to blissful hippie be-ins. Psychedelic drugs, newfangled technology, gay liberation, green

Ca li fo rnia S I nformation an F rancisco anta C ruz to S&anthF erancisco B ay A r e a

and traditional Belgian and German brews are always on tap, off Hwy 1.

Costanoa (% 877-262-7848, 650-879-1100; www. costanoa.com; 2001 Rossi Rd; tents/cabins without bath from $89/179, lodge r $203-291; W c ).

1 20

Ca li fo rnia S ian g hts F rancisco & th e B ay A r e a

ventures, free speech and culinary experimentation all became mainstream long ago in San Francisco. Consider permission permanently granted to be outlandish: other towns may surprise you, but in San Francisco you may surprise yourself. Grab your coat and a handful of glitter, and enter the land of fog and fabulousness. So long, inhibitions; hello, San Francisco.

History Before gold changed everything, San Francisco was a Spanish colonial mission built by conscripts from the indigenous Ohlone and Miwok communities. In 1849 the gold rush turned an 800-person village into a port city of 100,000 prospectors, con artists, prostitutes and honest folk. Frustrated miners rioted against San Francisco’s Chinese community, who from 1877 to 1943 were restricted to living and working in Chinatown by anti-Chinese laws. In the late 19th century, Chinese laborers had few options besides dangerous work building railroads for the city’s robber barons, who dynamited, mined and clear-cut across the West, and built grand Nob Hill mansions. When the 1906 earthquake and fire reduced the city to rubble, San Franciscans rebuilt an astounding 15 buildings per day. By 1915, the rebuilt city hosted the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in grand style. During WWII, soldiers accused of homosexuality and insubordination were dismissed in San Francisco, cementing the city’s counterculture reputation. The 1967 ‘Summer of Love’ brought free food, sex and music to the hippie Haight, while enterprising gay activists founded an out-and-proud community in the Castro. San Francisco’s unconventional thinking is behind today’s boom in social media, mobile apps and biotech.

1 Sights Let San Francisco’s 43 hills stretch your legs and your imagination as they deliver breathtaking views.

1 Embarcadero oFerry Building

LANDMARK

(Map p128; % 415-983-8030; www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com; Market St & the Embarcadero; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; pc ; g 2, 6, 9, 14, 21, 31, m Embarcadero,

Hedonism is alive and well at this transit hub turned gourmet emporium, where foodies happily miss their ferries slurping local oysters and bubbly. Star chefs are frequently spotted at the farmers market (p136) that wraps around the building yearround. Z Embarcadero)

oExploratorium

MUSEUM

(Map p128; % 415-528-4444; www.exploratorium. edu; Pier 15; adult/child $29/19, 6-10pm Thu $15; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, over 18yr only Thu 6-10pm; p c ; m F) S Is there a science to skate-

boarding? Do toilets really flush counter clockwise in Australia? Find answers to questions you wished you’d learned in school, at San Francisco’s thrilling hands-on science museum. Combining science with art, and investigating human perception, the Exploratorium nudges you to question how you perceive the world around you. The setting is thrilling – a 9-acre, glass-walled pier jutting straight into San Francisco Bay, with large outdoor portions you can explore free of charge, 24 hours a day.

1 Union Square & Civic Center Bordered by high-end department stores, Union Square (Map p128; intersection of Geary, Powell, Post & Stockton Sts; j Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde, m Powell, Z Powell) was named for

pro-Union Civil War rallies held here 150 years ago. People-watch with espresso from Emporio Rulli (Map p128; % 415-433-1122; www.rulli.com; Union Sq; h 7am-7pm; m Powell, Z Powell) cafe.

oAsian Art Museum

MUSEUM

(Map p128; % 415-581-3500; www.asianart.org; 200 Larkin St; adult/child/student $15/free/10, 1st Sun of month free; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 9pm Thu; c ; m Civic Center, Z Civic Center) Imagina-

tions race from ancient Persian miniatures to cutting-edge Japanese fashion through three floors spanning 6000 years of Asian arts. Besides the largest collection outside Asia – 18,000 works – the museum offers excellent programs for all ages, from shadow- puppet shows and yoga for kids to mixers with cross-cultural DJ mash-ups. Powell St Cable Car Turnaround LANDMARK (Map p128; cnr Powell & Market Sts; j PowellMason, Mason-Hyde, m Powell, Z Powell) Stand

awhile at Powell and Market Sts and spot arriving cable-car operators leaping out, gripping the trolley’s chassis and slooowly turning the car atop a revolving wooden

1 21

SAN FRANCISCO IN… One Day

Two Days

Start your day in the Mission amid mural-covered garage doors lining Balmy Alley, then step inside meditative Mission Dolores. Break for burritos before hoofing it to the Haight for flashbacks at vintage boutiques and the Summer of Love site: Golden Gate Park. Glimpse bay views atop the de Young Museum, take a walk on the wild side at the California Academy of Sciences and brave howling winds on the Golden Gate Bridge.

platform. Cable cars can’t go in reverse, so they need to be turned around by hand here at the terminus of Powell St lines. Riders queue up midmorning to early evening here to secure a seat, with raucous street performers and doomsday preachers on the sidelines as entertainment.

1 Chinatown Since 1848, this community has survived riots, bootlegging gangsters and earthquakes. Chinese Historical Society of America MUSEUM (CHSA; Map p128; % 415-391-1188; www.chsa. org; 965 Clay St; h noon-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat; g 1, 8, 30, 45, j California St, Powell-Mason, Mason-Hyde) F Picture what it was like

to be Chinese in America during the Gold Rush, transcontinental railroad construction or Beat heyday in this 1932 landmark, built as Chinatown’s YWCA by Julia Morgan (chief architect of Hearst Castle). CHSA historians unearth fascinating artifacts, such as 1920s silk qipao dresses worn by socialites from Shanghai to San Francisco. Exhibits reveal once-popular views of Chinatown, including the sensationalist opium-den exhibit at San Francisco’s 1915 Panama-Pacific International Expo, inviting fairgoers to ‘Go Slumming’ in Chinatown.

1 North Beach City Lights CULTURAL CENTER, LANDMARK (Map p128; % 415-362-8193; www.citylights.com; 261 Columbus Ave; h 10am-midnight; c ; g 8, 10, 12, 30, 41, 45, j Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde) Free

speech and free spirits have flourished at City Lights since 1957, when founder and poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti and manager Shigeyoshi Murao won a landmark ruling defending their right to publish Allen Ginsberg’s magnificent epic poem ‘Howl.’ Celebrate your right to read freely in the sunny upstairs Poetry Room, with its piles of freshly published verse and designated Poet’s Chair. Beat Museum MUSEUM (Map p128; % 800-537-6822; www.kerouac.com; 540 Broadway; adult/student $8/5, walking tours $25; h museum 10am-7pm, walking tours 2-4pm Mon, Wed & Sat; g 8, 10, 12, 30, 41, 45, j Powell- Mason) The closest you can get to the com-

plete Beat experience without breaking a law. The 1000-plus artifacts in this museum’s literary ephemera collection include the sublime (the banned edition of Ginsberg’s Howl) and the ridiculous (those Kerouac bobble-head dolls are definite head-shakers). Downstairs, watch Beat-era films in ramshackle theater seats redolent with the odors of literary giants, pets and pot. Upstairs, pay respects at shrines to individual Beat writers. Guided two-hour walking tours cover the museum, Beat history and literary alleys.

Ca li fo rnia S ian g hts F rancisco & th e B ay A r e a

Since the Gold Rush, San Francisco adventures have started in Chinatown, where you can still find hidden fortunes – in cookies, that is. After dining on dim sum, beat it to City Lights Bookstore to revel in Beat poetry. Stroll past the Italian streetside cafes of North Beach to climb Coit Tower for 360-degree city and bay views. Then head to Civic Center’s Asian Art Museum, where art transports you across centuries and oceans within an hour. Have an early dinner at the Ferry Building before taking a spooky night tour of Alcatraz. Make your escape from the island prison in time to hit the dance floor in SoMa clubs.

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1 Russian Hill & Nob Hill Lombard Street AREA (Map p128; 900 block of Lombard St; j Powell- Hyde) You’ve seen its eight switchbacks in

Cable Car Museum HISTORIC SITE (Map p128; % 415-474-1887; www.cablecar museum.org; 1201 Mason St; donations appreciated; h 10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; c ; j Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde) F Hear

that whirring beneath the cable-car tracks? That’s the sound of the cables that pull the cars, and they all connect inside the city’s long-functioning cable-car barn. Grips, engines, braking mechanisms…if these warm your gearhead heart, you’ll be besotted by the Cable Car Museum. See three original 1870s cable cars and watch cables whir over massive bull wheels – as awesome a feat of physics now as when Andrew Hallidie invented it in 1873.

1 Fisherman’s Wharf Maritime National Historical Park HISTORIC SITE (Map p128; www.nps.gov/safr; 499 Jefferson St, Hyde St Pier; 7-day ticket adult/child $5/free; h 9:30am-5pm Oct-May, to 5:30pm Jun-Sep; c ; g 19, 30, 47, j Powell-Hyde, m F) Four historic

ships are floating museums at this national park, Fisherman’s Wharf’s most authentic attraction. Moored along Hyde St Pier, standouts include the 1891 schooner Alma, 1890 steamboat Eureka, paddle-wheel tugboat Eppleton Hall and iron-hulled Balclutha, which brought coal to San Francisco. It’s free to walk the pier; pay only to board ships.

Maritime Museum MUSEUM (Aquatic Park Bathhouse; Map p128; www.maritime. org; 900 Beach St; h 10am-4pm; c ; g 19, 30, 47, j Powell-Hyde) F A monumental hint to

sailors in need of a scrub, this restored, shipshape 1939 streamline-moderne landmark is decked out with Works Progress Administration (WPA) art treasures: playful seal and frog sculptures by Beniamino Bufano,

Alcatraz (Map p124; % Alcatraz Cruises 415-981-7625; www.alcatrazcruises.com; day tours adult/child/family $30/18/90, night tours adult/child $37/22; h call center 8am-7pm, ferries depart Pier 33 half-hourly 8:45am-3:50pm, night tours 5:55pm & 6:30pm) For more than 150 years, Alcatraz has given the innocent chills and the guilty cold sweats. It served as the nation’s first military prison, a maximum-security penitentiary housing A-list criminals including Al Capone, and disputed territory between Native American activists and the FBI. No prisoners ever escaped Alcatraz alive, but since importing guards and supplies cost more than putting up prisoners at the Ritz, the prison was shuttered in 1963. Day visits include the cruise to and from the island and captivating audio tours, with past prisoners and guards recalling life on ‘the Rock.’ Eerie night tours are led by a park ranger. Reserve tickets at least a month ahead.

Ca li fo rnia S ian g hts F rancisco & th e B ay A r e a

a thousand photographs. The tourist board has dubbed this ‘the world’s crookedest street,’ which is factually incorrect. Vermont St in Potrero Hill deserves that award, but Lombard is much more scenic, with its redbrick pavement and lovingly tended flowerbeds. It wasn’t always so bent; before the arrival of the automobile it lunged straight down the hill.

ALCATRAZ

Hilaire Hiler’s surreal underwater dream scape murals and recently uncovered wood reliefs by Richard Ayer. Acclaimed African American artist Sargent Johnson created the stunning carved green slate marquee doorway and the verandah’s mesmerizing aquatic mosaics.

1 The Marina & Presidio Crissy Field PARK (Map p124; www.crissyfield.org; 1199 East Beach; p ; g 30, PresidiGo Shuttle) War is for the birds

at Crissy Field, a military airstrip turned waterfront nature preserve with knockout Golden Gate views. Where military aircraft once zoomed in for landings, bird-watchers now huddle in the silent rushes of a reclaimed tidal marsh. Joggers pound beachside trails and the only security alerts are raised by puppies suspiciously sniffing surfers. On foggy days, stop by the certified- green Warming Hut to browse regional- nature books and warm up with fair-trade coffee. Presidio Officers’ Club HISTORIC BUILDING (Map p124; % 415-561-4165; www.presidioofficers club.com; 50 Moraga Ave; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun;

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building dates to the late 1700s, and got a total renovation in 2015, revealing gorgeous Spanish-Moorish adobe architecture. The free Heritage Gallery shows the history of the Presidio, from Native American days to present. Moraga Hall – the former officers’ club lounge – is a lovely spot to sit fireside and also has free wi-fi. Thursday and Friday evenings, the Club hosts a dynamic lineup of events and lectures; check the website. Baker Beach BEACH (Map p124; h sunrise-sunset; p ; g 29, PresidiGo Shuttle) Picnic amid wind-sculpted pines,

fish from craggy rocks or frolic nude at milelong Baker Beach, with spectacular views of the bridge. Crowds come weekends, especially on fog-free days; arrive early. For nude sunbathing (mostly straight girls and gay boys), head to the north end. Families in clothing stick to the south end, nearer the

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parking lot. Mind the currents and the c-ccold water.

1 The Mission & the Castro oBalmy Alley

PUBLIC ART

(Map p124; % 415-285-2287; www.precitaeyes.org; btwn 24th & 25th Sts; g 10, 12, 14, 27, 48, Z 24th St Mission) Inspired by Diego Rivera’s 1930s San

Francisco murals and outraged by US foreign policy in Central America, 1970s Mission muralistas (muralists) set out to transform the political landscape, one mural-covered garage door at a time. Today, Balmy Alley murals span three decades, from an early memorial for El Salvador activist Archbishop Óscar Romero to a homage to Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keefe and other trailblazing modern women artists. Mission Dolores CHURCH (Misión San Francisco de Asís; % 415-621-8203; www.missiondolores.org; 3321 16th St; adult/child

125

Greater San Francisco

æ Sights 6 Baker Beach ............................................ C3 7 Bay Area Discovery Museum ................ C2 8 Bay Model Visitors Center..................... B2 Cliff House .......................................(see 11) 9 Crissy Field .............................................. C3 10 Golden Gate National Recreation Area ....................................................... B2 11 Lands End ................................................ B3 12 Legion of Honor....................................... B3 13 Marine Mammal Center ......................... B2

$5/3; h 9am-4pm Nov-Apr, to 4:30pm May-Oct; g 22, 33, Z 16th St Mission, m J) The city’s old-

est building and its namesake, whitewashed adobe Misión San Francisco de Asís was founded in 1776 and rebuilt in 1782 with conscripted Ohlone and Miwok labor – a graveyard memorial hut commemorates 5000 Ohlone and Miwok laborers who died in mission measles epidemics in 1814 and 1826. Today the modest adobe mission is overshadowed by the ornate adjoining 1913 basilica, featuring stained-glass windows of California’s 21 missions. GLBT History Museum MUSEUM (% 415-621-1107; www.glbthistory.org/museum; 4127 18th St; admission $5, 1st Wed of month free; h 11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; closed Tue fall-spring; m Castro) America’s first gay-

history museum cobbles ephemera from the community – Harvey Milk’s campaign literature, matchbooks from long-gone bath houses, photographs of early activists – together with harder-hitting installations that focus on various aspects of queer history, incorporating electronic media to tell personal stories that illuminate the evolution of the struggle to gain rights and acceptance into the larger culture.

Dolores Park PARK (http://sfrecpark.org/destination/mission-dolorespark/; Dolores St, btwn 18th & 20th Sts; c # ; g 14, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission, m J) Semiprofessional

tanning, taco picnics and a Hunky Jesus Contest at Easter: welcome to San Francisco’s sunny side. Dolores Park has something

14 15 16 17 18

Mt Tamalpais State Park........................ A1 Muir Woods National Monument .......... A1 Nike Missile Site SF-88...........................B2 Ocean Beach............................................B3 Presidio Officers' Club ............................C3 Sutro Baths ..................................... (see 11)

ÿ Sleeping 19 Cavallo Point ............................................C2 20 HI Marin Headlands Hostel ....................B2 21 Pantoll Campground............................... A1 22 West Point Inn.......................................... A1 ú Eating 23 Burma Superstar.....................................C3 24 Muir Woods Trading Company ............. A1 25 Outerlands................................................B4

for everyone, from street ball and tennis to the Mayan-pyramid playground (sorry kids: no blood sacrifice allowed). Political protests and other favorite local sports happen year-round, and there are free movie nights and Mime Troupe performances in summer. Climb to the upper southwest corner for the best views of downtown, framed by palm trees.

1 The Haight & Around Haight & Ashbury LANDMARK (g 6, 7, 33, 37, 43) This legendary intersection

was the epicenter of the psychedelic ’60s and remains a counterculture magnet. On average Saturdays here you can sign Green Party petitions, commission a poem, hear Hare Krishna on keyboards and Bob Dylan on banjo. The clock overhead always reads 4:20 – better known in herbal circles as International Bong-Hit Time. A local clockmaker recently fixed it; within a week it was stuck at 4:20. Alamo Square Park PARK (www.sfparksalliance.org/our-parks/parks/alamosquare; Hayes & Scott Sts; h sunrise-sunset; # ; g 5, 21, 22, 24) The pastel Painted Ladies of

famed Postcard Row along the east side pale in comparison with the colorful characters along the northwest end of this 1857 Victorian hilltop park. Alamo Square’s north side features Barbary Coast baroque mansions at their most bombastic, bedecked with fishscale shingles and gingerbread trim dripping from peaked roofs.

Ca li fo rnia S ian g hts F rancisco & th e B ay A r e a

æ Top Sights 1 Alcatraz .................................................... C2 2 Balmy Alley .............................................. D4 3 California Academy of Sciences ........... C3 4 Golden Gate Bridge ................................ C3 5 Point Bonita Lighthouse ........................ B3

Book a ferry from Pier 33 and ride 1.5 miles across the bay to explore America’s most notorious former prison. The trip itself is worth the money, providing stunning views of the city skyline. Once you’ve landed at the Ferry Dock & Pier , you begin the 580-yard walk to the top of the island and prison; if you’re out of shape, there’s a twice-hourly tram. As you climb toward the Guardhouse , notice the island’s steep slope; before it was a prison, Alcatraz was a fort. In the 1850s, the military quarried the rocky shores into near-vertical cliﬀs. Ships could then only dock at a single port, separated from the main buildings by a sally port (a drawbridge and moat in what became the guardhouse). Inside, peer through oor grates to see Alcatraz’ original prison. Volunteers tend the brilliant – an orderly Oﬃcerʼs Row Gardens counterpoint to the overgrown rose bushes surrounding the burned-out shell of the Wardenʼs House . At the top of the hill, by the front door of the Main Cellhouse , beautiful shots unfurl all around, including a view of the Golden Gate Bridge . Above the main door of the administration building, notice the historic signs & graﬃti , before you step inside the dank, cold prison to nd the Frank Morris cell , former home to Alcatraz’ most notorious jail-breaker.

EMMA DURNFORD / GETTY IMAGES ©

Alcatraz

Historic Signs & Graffiti

During their 1969–71 occupation, Native Americans graﬃtied the water tower: ʻHome of the Free Indian Land.ʼ Above the cellhouse door, examine the eagle-and-ag crest to see how the red-and-white stripes were changed to spell ʻFree.ʼ

Warden's House

Fires destroyed the wardenʼs house and other structures during the Indian Occupation. The government blamed the Native Americans; the Native Americans blamed agents provocateurs acting on behalf of the Nixon Administration to undermine public sympathy.

Parade Grounds

TOP TIPS  Book at least one month prior for self-guided daytime visits, longer for ranger-led night tours. For info on garden tours, see www.alcatraz gardens.org.

 Thereʼs no food (just water) but you can bring your own; picnicking is allowed at the ferry dock only. Dress in layers as weather changes fast and it’s usually windy.

DAVID CLAPP / GETTY IMAGES ©

 Be prepared to hike; a steep path ascends from the ferry landing to the cell block. Most people spend two to three hours on the island. You need only reserve for the outbound ferry; take any ferry back.

Ferry Dock & Pier

A giant wall map helps you get your bearings. Inside nearby Bldg 64, short lms and exhibits provide historical perspective on the prison and details about the Indian Occupation.

FRANCKREPORTER / GETTY IMAGES ©

FRANK VAN DEN BERGH / GETTY IMAGES ©

View of Golden Gate Bridge

The Golden Gate Bridge stretches wide on the horizon. Best views are from atop the island at Eagle Plaza, near the cellhouse entrance, and at water level along the Agave Trail (September to January only).

Main Cellhouse

During the mid-20th century, the maximum-security prison housed the dayʼs most notorious troublemakers, including Al Capone and Robert Stroud, the ʻBirdman of Alcatrazʼ (who actually conducted his ornithology studies at Leavenworth).

Power House

Recreation Yard

Water Tower

Oﬃcers' Club

Lighthouse

Frank Morris Cell

Peer into cell 138 on B-Block to see a re-creation of the dummy's head that Frank Morris left in his bed as a decoy to aid his notorious – and successful – 1962 escape from Alcatraz.

RICHARD FRANKLIN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Guard Tower

Guardhouse Alcatrazʼ oldest building dates to 1857 and retains remnants of the original drawbridge and moat. During the Civil War the basement was transformed into a military dungeon – the genesis of Alcatraz as prison.

In the 19th century soldiers imported topsoil to beautify the island with gardens. Well-trusted prisoners later gardened – Elliott Michener said it kept him sane. Historians, ornithologists and archaeologists choose todayʼs plants.

MORTEN FALCH SORTLAND / GETTY IMAGES ©

Officer's Row Gardens

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Downtown San Francisco

Ca li fo rnia S ian g hts F rancisco & th e B ay A r e a

æ Top Sights 1 Asian Art Museum .................................. C7 2 City Lights Bookstore............................. D4 3 Coit Tower ............................................... D3 4 Exploratorium ..........................................E3 5 Ferry Building ...........................................F4 6 Musée Mécanique................................... C2 æ Sights 7 Aquarium of the Bay............................... D2 8 Beat Museum .......................................... D4 9 Cable Car Museum ................................. D4 10 Children's Creativity Museum................E6 11 Chinese Historical Society of America ................................................. D4 City Lights.........................................(see 2) 12 Lombard Street....................................... C3 13 Maritime Museum .................................. B2 14 Maritime National Historical Park........................................................ B2 15 Pier 39 .......................................................D1 16 Powell St Cable Car Turnaround .......... D6 17 Union Square........................................... D5 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 18 Blazing Saddles....................................... B2 19 City Kayak ................................................ G6 20 Drag Me Along Tours.............................. D4 ÿ Sleeping 21 Adelaide Hostel ....................................... D5 22 Argonaut Hotel........................................ B2 23 Chateau Tivoli...........................................A7 24 Coventry Motor Inn ................................ A3 25 Golden Gate Hotel .................................. D5 26 HI San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf ..................................................... A2 27 Hotel Bohème ......................................... D3 28 Hotel Zetta............................................... D6 29 Marker ...................................................... D6 30 Pacific Tradewinds Hostel......................E4 31 San Remo Hotel ...................................... C2

1 Golden Gate Park & Around In 1865 the city voted to turn more than 1000 acres of sand dunes into Golden Gate Park. At the park’s western end is Ocean Beach (Map p124; % 415-561-4323; www.parks conservancy.org; Great Hwy; h sunrise-sunset; pc ; g 5, 18, 31, m N), where Cliff House (Map p124; % 415-386-3330; www.cliffhouse.com; 1090 Point Lobos Ave; h 9am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; g 5, 18, 31, 38) F overlooks the splendid ruin of Sutro Baths (Map p124; www.nps.gov/goga/historyculture/sutrobaths.htm; 680 Point Lobos Ave; h sunrise-sunset; visitor center 9am-5pm; p ; g 5, 31, 38) SF.

Follow the partly paved hiking trail around

ú Eating 32 1601 Bar & Kitchen..................................C8 33 Benu .......................................................... E6 34 Brenda's French Soul Food....................C6 35 Cinecittà ...................................................D3 36 City View................................................... E4 37 Emporio Rulli............................................D5 38 Ferry Plaza Farmers Market .................. F4 39 Fisherman's Wharf Crab Stands ...........C2 40 Greens.......................................................A2 41 Liguria Bakery..........................................D3 42 Molinari .....................................................D3 43 Off the Grid...............................................A2 44 Rich Table.................................................B8 45 Rosamunde Sausage Grill ......................A8 46 State Bird Provisions ..............................A6 47 Sweet Woodruff.......................................C5 48 Z & Y ..........................................................D4 û Drinking & Nightlife 49 Aunt Charlie's Lounge ............................D6 50 Caffe Trieste.............................................D3 51 Comstock Saloon ....................................D4 52 EndUp ....................................................... E7 53 Local Edition............................................. E5 54 Smuggler's Cove .....................................B7 55 Toronado ..................................................A8 ý Entertainment 56 American Conservatory Theater ..........D6 57 Beach Blanket Babylon ..........................D3 58 Fillmore Auditorium ................................A6 59 Great American Music Hall ....................C6 60 Honey Soundsystem ..............................C8 61 Oasis .........................................................C8 62 San Francisco Ballet ...............................B7 San Francisco Opera ....................(see 62) 63 SFJAZZ Center ........................................B7 64 Strand Theater ........................................C7 65 Stud...........................................................D8 66 Sundance Kabuki Cinema......................A6 67 TIX Bay Area ............................................D5

Lands End (Map p124) for shipwreck sight-

ings and Golden Gate Bridge views. On Sundays, when JFK Drive is closed to cars, rent your own wheels from Golden Gate Park

Bike & Skate (% 415-668-1117; www.goldengateparkbikeandskate.com; 3038 Fulton St; skates per hr $5-6, per day $20-24, bikes per hr $3-5, per day $15-25, tandem bikes per hr/day $15/75, disc golf bags for 2 people $6/25; h 10am-6pm summer, to 7pm winter; c ; g 5, 21, 31, 44).

oGolden Gate Bridge

BRIDGE

(Map p124; www.goldengatebridge.org/visitors; off Lincoln Blvd; northbound free, southbound toll $6, billed electronically to vehicle’s license plate, for details, see www.goldengate.org/tolls; g 28, all

1 31 Golden Gate Transit buses) San Franciscans have

Japanese Tea Garden GARDENS (% tea ceremony reservations 415-752-1171; www. japaneseteagardensf.com; 75 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr; adult/child $8/2, before 10am Mon, Wed & Frifree; h 9am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 4:45pm Nov-Feb; p c ; g 5, 7, 44, m N) Since 1894, this pictur-

oCalifornia Academy of Sciences MUSEUM esque 5-acre garden and bonsai grove has (Map p124; % 415-379-8000; www.calacademy.org; 55 Music Concourse Dr; adult/child $34.95/24.95; h 9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; p c ; g 5, 6, 7, 21, 31, 33, 44, m N) S Architect Ren-

zo Piano’s 2008 landmark LEED-certified green building houses 40,000 weird and wonderful animals in a four-story rainforest and split-level aquarium under a ‘living roof’ of California wildflowers. After the penguins nod off to sleep, the wild rumpus starts at kids-only Academy Sleepovers ($109; ages five to 17, plus adult chaperones; 6pm to 8am including snack and breakfast) and over-21 NightLife Thursdays ($12), when rainforest-themed cocktails encourage strange mating rituals among shy internet daters. de Young Museum MUSEUM (% 415-750-3600; http://deyoung.famsf.org/; 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr; adult/child $10/6, discount with Muni ticket $2, 1st Tue of month free, online booking fee per ticket $1; h 9:30am-5:15pm TueSun, to 8:45pm Fri Apr-Nov; g 5, 7, 44, m N) Follow

sculptor Andy Goldsworthy’s artificial fault line in the sidewalk into Herzog & de Meuron’s sleek, copper-clad building that’s oxidizing green to blend into the park. Don’t be fooled by the de Young’s camouflaged exterior: shows here boldly broaden artistic horizons, from Oceanic ceremonial masks and Oscar de la Renta gowns to James Turrell’s domed ‘Skyspace’ installation, built into a hill in the sculpture garden. Legion of Honor MUSEUM (Map p124; % 415-750-3600; http://legionofhonor. famsf.org; 100 34th Ave; adult/child $10/6, discount with Muni ticket $2, 1st Tue of month free; h 9:30am5:15pm Tue-Sun; c ; g 1, 2, 18, 38) A museum as

eccentric and illuminating as San Francisco itself, the Legion showcases a wildly eclectic collection ranging from Monet water lilies to John Cage soundscapes, ancient Iraqi ivories to R Crumb comics. Upstairs are blockbust-

blushed with cherry blossoms in spring, turned flaming red with maple leaves in fall, and lost all track of time in the meditative Zen Garden.

2 Activities Blazing Saddles CYCLING (Map p128; % 415-202-8888; www.blazingsaddles. com/san-francisco; 2715 Hyde St; bicycle rental per hour $8-15, per day $32-88, electric bikes per day $48-88; h 8am-8pm; c ; j Powell-Hyde)

Blazing Saddles is tailored to visitors, with a main shop on Hyde St and six rental stands around Fisherman’s Wharf, convenient for biking the Embarcadero or to the Golden Gate Bridge. It also rents electric bikes and offers 24-hour return service – a big plus. Reserve online for a 10% discount; rental includes all extras (bungee cords, packs etc).

COIT TOWER Adding an exclamation mark to San Francisco’s skyline, Coit Tower (Map p128; % 415-249-0995; http://sfrecpark. org/destination/telegraph-hill-pioneer-park/ coit-tower; Telegraph Hill Blvd; elevator entry (nonresident) adult/child $8/5; h 10am6pm May-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Apr; g 39) offers views worth shouting about – especially after you climb the steep wooden Filbert Street steps up Telegraph Hill to get here. Check out 360-degree panoramas from the open-air viewing platform, and the wraparound 1930s lobby murals glorifying workers – once denounced as communist but now a landmark. To glimpse more murals hidden inside a stairwell, join a free docent-led tour at 11am on Wednesday or Saturday.

Ca li fo rnia S A an ctiviti F rancisco es & th e B ay A r e a

passionate perspectives on every subject, especially their signature landmark, though everyone agrees that it’s a good thing that the navy didn’t get its way over the bridge’s design – naval officials preferred a hulking concrete span, painted with caution-yellow stripes, over the soaring art-deco design of architects Gertrude and Irving Murrow and engineer Joseph B Strauss, which, luckily, won the day.

er shows of Old Masters and Impressionists, but don’t miss selections from the Legion’s Achenbach Foundation of Graphic Arts collection of 90,0000 works on paper, ranging from Rembrandt to Ed Ruscha.

1 32 City Kayak KAYAKING (Map p128; % 415-294-1050; www.citykayak.com; Pier 40, South Beach Harbor; kayak rentals per hour $35-65, 3hr lesson & rental $59, tours $58-98; h rentals 11am-3pm, return by 5pm Thu-Mon; g 30, 45, m N, T) You haven’t seen San Francisco un-

Ca li fo rnia S T ours an F rancisco & th e B ay A r e a

til you’ve seen it from the water. Newbies to kayaking can take lessons and paddle calm waters near the Bay Bridge, alone or escorted; experienced paddlers can brave choppy Bay currents near the Golden Gate (conditions permitting; get advice first). Sporty romantics take note: calm-water moonlight tours are ideal for proposals. Check website for details.

T Tours oPrecita Eyes Mission

Mural Tours WALKING TOUR (% 415-285-2287; www.precitaeyes.org; adult $1520, child $3; h see website calendar for tour dates; c ; g 12, 14, 48, 49, Z 24th St Mission) Muralists

lead weekend walking tours covering 60 to 70 Mission murals in a six- to 10-block radius of mural-bedecked Balmy Alley. Tours last from 90 minutes and up to 2½ hours for the more in-depth Classic Mural Walk. Proceeds fund mural upkeep at this community arts nonprofit. Drag Me Along Tours WALKING TOUR (Map p128; http://www.dragmealongtours.com; tour begins in Portsmouth Square; tours $20; h tours usually 11am-1pm Sun; g 1, 8, 10, 12, 30, 41, 45, j California, Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde) Explore

San Francisco’s bawdy Barbary Coast with a bona-fide legend: Gold Rush burlesque star Countess Lola Montez, reincarnated in drag by San Francisco historian Rick Shelton. Her Highness leads you through Chinatown alleyways where Victorian ladies made and lost reputations to Jackson Square saloons where sailors were shanghaied, introducing Barbary Coast characters who gambled big, loved hard and lived large. Adult content; reservations required; cash only. Haight-Ashbury Flower Power Walking Tour WALKING TOUR (% 415-863-1621; www.haightashburytour.com; adult/under 10yr $20/free; h 10:30am Tue & Sat, 2pm Fri; g 6, 71, m N) Take a long, strange trip

through 12 blocks of hippie history, following in the steps of Jimi, Jerry and Janis – if you have to ask for last names, you really need this tour, man. Tours meet at the cor-

ner of Stanyan and Waller Sts and last about two hours; reservations required. Public Library City Guides TOUR (% 415-557-4266; www.sfcityguides.org; donations/tips welcome) F Volunteer local his-

torians lead nonprofit tours organized by neighborhood and theme: Art Deco Marina, Gold Rush Downtown, Secrets of Fisherman’s Wharf, Telegraph Hill Stairway Hike and more.

z Festivals & Events Lunar New Year (www.chineseparade.com; h Feb)

CULTURAL

Chase the 200ft dragon, lion dancers and frozen-smile runners-up for the Miss Chinatown title during Lunar New Year celebrations. Firecrackers and fierce legions of tiny-tot martial artists make this parade at the end of February the highlight of San Francisco winters. Bay to Breakers SPORTS (www.baytobreakers.com; race registration from $64; h May) Run in costume or wearing not

much at all from Embarcadero to Ocean Beach the third Sunday in May, while joggers dressed as salmon run upstream. SF Pride Celebration CULTURAL (h Jun) A day isn’t enough to do SF proud: June begins with the International LGBT Film Festival (www.frameline.org; h mid-Jun),

and goes out in style the last weekend with Saturday’s Dyke March (www.dykemarch.org) to the Castro’s Pink Party and the joyous, million-strong Pride Parade. Hardly Strictly Bluegrass (http://www.hardlystrictlybluegrass.com;

MUSIC

h Oct)

The West goes wild for free bluegrass at Golden Gate Park, with three days of concerts and three stages of headliners; held early October.

4 Sleeping Boutique and luxury hotels abound around Union Square, Nob Hill and SoMa, while Fisherman’s Wharf and the Marina accommodations are mostly motels and chain hotels. Offbeat inns, small hotels and cozy B&Bs await in less-touristed neighbourhoods. Expect to pay $35 to $55 for overnight parking. Quoted rates do not include hotel tax (15.5%), from which hostels are exempt.

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Walk 22 City Chinatown to the Waterfront START CHINATOWN’S DRAGON GATE END FERRY BUILDING LENGTH 2.5 MILES; FIVE HOURS

Starting at Chinatown’s 1Dragon Gate, head past Grant St’s gilded dragon lamps to 2Old St Mary’s Square, site of a brothel leveled in the 1906 fire. Today, renegade skateboarders turn different kinds of tricks under the watchful eye of Beniamino Bufano’s 1929 statue of Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat-Sen. Pass flag-festooned temple balconies along 3Waverly Place, then head to the 4Chinese Historical Society of America (p121) museum, in the majestic Chinatown YWCA designed by Julia Morgan. Enter 5Spofford Alley, where mahjongg tiles click, Chinese orchestras play and beauticians gossip over blow-dryers – hard to believe this is where Prohibition bootleggers fought turf wars, and Sun Yat-Sen plotted the 1911 overthrow of China’s last dynasty at No 36. Once packed with brothels, 6Ross Alley turned movie star as a location for Karate

Kid II and Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. At No 56, make a fortune and watch it get folded into a warm cookie at the 7Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. Back on Grant Ave, take a shortcut through Jack Kerouac Alley, where the binge-prone author often wound up ‘on the road’. Stop by 8City Lights Bookstore (p121) on Columbus Ave, champion of Beat poetry and free speech, then hop down Broadway into the 9Beat Museum (p121). Savor espresso at aCaffe Trieste, under the Sardinian fishing mural where Francis Ford Coppola wrote The Godfather script. Climb waaaay up to bCoit Tower (p131) for glorious bay-view panoramas and historic murals. Take the head-spinning cFilbert Street Steps downhill past wild parrots and hidden cottages to dLevi’s Plaza, named for the coinventor of denim pants with rivets – aka American blue jeans. Head right on Embarcadero to the fun-for-all-ages eExploratorium (p120) before having lunch bayside at the landmark fFerry Building (p120), with its thrice-weekly outdoor farmers market.

134

SAN FRANCISCO FOR CHILDREN

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Although it has almost the least children per capita of any US city – there are more canines than kids in town – San Francisco is packed with family-friendly attractions, including the California Academy of Sciences (p131) in Golden Gate Park and the waterfront Exploratorium (p120), Crissy Field (p123), Musée Mécanique (Map p128; % 415346-2000; www.museemechanique.org; Pier 45, Shed A; h 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun; c ; g 47, j Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde, m F) and Pier 39 (Map p128; www.pier39.com; Beach St & the Embarcadero; p c ; g 47, j Powell-Mason, m F), with its barking sea lions and hand-painted Italian carousel. The Children’s Creativity Museum (Map p128; % 415-820-3320; http://creativity.org/; 221 4th St; admission $12; h 10am-4pm Tue-Sun; c ; g 14, m Powell, Z Powell) in SoMa has technology that’s too cool for school: robots, live-action video games and 3-D animation workshops. At the Aquarium of the Bay (Map p128; www.aquariumofthebay.org; Pier 39; adult/ child/family $21.95/12.95/64; h 9am-8pm late May-early Sep, shorter off-season hours; c ; g 49, j Powell-Mason, m F) on Pier 39, wander through underwater glass tubes as sharks circle overhead, then let tots gently touch tide-pool critters.

4 Embarcadero, SoMa, Union Square & Civic Center

Adelaide Hostel HOSTEL $ (Map p128; % 415-359-1915, 877-359-1915; www. adelaidehostel.com; 5 Isadora Duncan Lane; dm $37-50, r $120-220; iW ; g 38) Down a hidden

alley, the 22-room Adelaide has up-to-date furnishings and marble-tiled baths – also the occasional rust stain and dust bunny. Extras include breakfast, group activities and two common areas (one quiet). Good service; friendly crowd. Note: your private room may wind up being in the nearby Dakota or Fitzgerald Hotels; of the two, Fitzgerald is the better.

Golden Gate Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p128; % 415-392-3702; www.goldengate hotel.com; 775 Bush St; r $215, without bathroom $145; i W ; g 2, 3, j Powell-Hyde, Powell-Mason)

Like an old-fashioned pension, the Golden Gate has kindly owners and simple rooms with mismatched furniture, inside a 1913 Edwardian hotel safely up the hill from the Tenderloin. Rooms are small, clean and comfortable and most have private bathrooms (some with antique claw-foot bathtubs). Enormous croissants, homemade cookies and a resident cat provide TLC after long days of sightseeing.

oMarker

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(Map p128; % 844-736-2753, 415-292-0100; http://themarkersanfrancisco.com; 501 Geary St; r from $209; aiW# ; g 38, j Powell-Hyde, Powell-Mason) S Snazzy Marker gets details

right, with guest rooms a riot of color – lipstick-red lacquer, navy-blue velvet and shiny-purple silk – plus substantive amenities like high-thread-count sheets, ergonomic workspaces, multiple electrical outlets, and ample drawer, closet and bathroom- vanity space. Extras include a spa with a Jacuzzi, small gym, evening wine reception and bragging rights to a stylin’ address. Hotel Zetta HOTEL $$$ (Map p128; % 415-543-8555, 855-212-4187; www.hotelzetta.com; 55 5th St; r from $324; a i W c # ; Z Powell St, m Powell St) S

Opened 2013, this snappy eco-conscious downtowner by the Viceroy group plays to techies who work too much, with a mezzanine-level ‘play room’ with billiards, shuffleboard and two-story-high Plinko wall rising above the art-filled lobby. Upstairs, bigger-than-average rooms look sharp with padded black-leather headboards and low-slung platform beds; web-enabled flatscreen TVs link with your devices.

4 North Beach Pacific Tradewinds Hostel HOSTEL $ (Map p128; % 415-433-7970, 888-734-6783; http:// san-francisco-hostel.com; 680 Sacramento St; dm $38; h front desk 8am to midnight; i W ; g 1, j California St, Z Montgomery) San Francisco’s

smartest-looking all-dorm hostel has a blueand-white nautical theme, fully equipped kitchen, spotless glass-brick showers and no lockout time. Bunks are bolted to the wall so there’s no bed-shaking when your bunkmate

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shifts. Alas, no elevator means hauling bags up three flights but it’s worth it. Great service, fun staff.

city’s best-value stays, the San Remo dates to 1906 and is long on old-fashioned charm. Rooms are simply done with mismatched turn-of-the-century furnishings and all rooms share bathrooms. Think reputable, vintage boarding house. Note: least expensive rooms have windows onto the corridor, not the outdoors. Family suites accommodate up to five. No elevator. Hotel Bohème BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (Map p128; % 415-433-9111; www.hotelboheme. com; 444 Columbus Ave; r $225-295; i W ; g 10, 12, 30, 41, 45) Our favorite boutique hotel is a

love letter to the Beat era, with moody color schemes, Chinese umbrellas as light fixtures and photos from the Beat years on the walls. Rooms are smallish, some front on noisy Columbus Ave (quieter rooms are in back) and bathrooms are teensy, but it’s smack in North Beach’s vibrant scene. No elevator.

4 Fisherman’s Wharf,

the Marina & Presidio oHI San Francisco Fisherman’s

Wharf HOSTEL $ (Map p128; % 415-771-7277; www.sfhostels.com; Bldg 240, Fort Mason; dm incl breakfast $30-42, r $75-109; piW ; g 28, 30, 47, 49) Trading

downtown convenience for a glorious parklike setting with million-dollar waterfront views, this hostel occupies a former army hospital building, with bargain-priced private rooms and dorms (some coed) with four to 22 beds (avoid bunks one and two – they’re by doorways). Huge kitchen. No curfew but no heat during daytime: bring warm clothes. Limited free parking. Coventry Motor Inn MOTEL $$ (Map p128; % 415-567-1200; www.coventrymotorinn.com; 1901 Lombard St; r $160-225; paWc ; g 22, 28, 30, 43) Of the many mo-

tels lining Lombard St (Hwy 101), the generic Coventry has the highest quality-to-value ratio with spacious, well-maintained (if plain) rooms and extras like air-con (good for quiet sleeps) and covered parking. Parents: there’s plenty of floor space to unpack kids’ toys, but no pool.

HOTEL $$$

(% 415-800-7356; www.innatthepresidio.com; 42 Moraga Ave; r $270-360; pi W # ; g 43, PresidiGo Shuttle) S Built in 1903 as bachelor

quarters for army officers, this three-story red-brick building in the Presidio was transformed in 2012 into a spiffy national-park lodge, styled with leather, linen and wood. Oversized rooms are plush, including feather beds with Egyptian-cotton sheets. Suites have fireplaces. Nature surrounds you, with hiking trailheads out back, but taxis downtown cost $25. Argonaut Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (Map p128; % 415-563-0800; www.argonauthotel. com; 495 Jefferson St; r from $439, with view from $489; a W c # ; g 19, 47, 49, j Powell-Hyde) S

Fisherman’s Wharf’s top hotel was built as a cannery in 1908 and has century-old wooden beams and exposed-brick walls. Rooms sport an over-the-top nautical theme, with porthole-shaped mirrors and plush, deepblue carpets. Though all have the amenities of an upper-end hotel – ultracomfy beds, iPod docks – some rooms are tiny with limited sunlight.

4 The Mission & the Castro Inn San Francisco B&B $$ (% 415-641-0188; www.innsf.com; 943 S Van Ness Ave; r$215-255, without bathroom $165-225, cottages $385-475; piW# ; g 14, 49) S This

stately Mission-district inn occupies an elegant 1872 Italianate-Victorian mansion, impeccably maintained, packed with antiques. All rooms have fresh-cut flowers and sumptuous mattresses with featherbeds; some have a Jacuzzi. There’s also a freestanding garden cottage that sleeps up to six. Outside there’s an English garden and redwood hot tub open 24 hours (a rarity). Limited parking: reserve ahead. No elevator. Inn on Castro B&B $$ (% 415-861-0321; www.innoncastro.com; 321 Castro St; rincl breakfast $235-275, without bathroom $165-185, self-catering apt $235-290; W ; m Castro) A portal to the Castro’s disco heyday,

this Edwardian townhouse is decked out with top-end ’70s-mod furnishings. Rooms are retro-cool and spotlessly kept. Exceptional breakfasts – the owner is a chef. Several nearby, great-value apartments are also available for rental. No elevator. LGBT friendly.

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San Remo Hotel HOTEL $ (Map p128; % 415-776-8688; www.sanremohotel. com; 2237 Mason St; r without bathroom $119-159; i W # ; g 30, 47, j Powell-Mason) One of the

oInn at the Presidio

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4 The Haight Metro Hotel HOTEL $ (% 415-861-5364; www.metrohotelsf.com; 319 Divisadero St; r $88-100; iW ; g 6, 24, 71) On

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a thoroughfare bisecting the Upper and Lower Haight districts, this straightforward, zero-frills hotel provides cheap, clean rooms with private bathroom, an outdoor garden patio and 24-hour reception. Some rooms have two double beds; one room sleeps six ($150). The location is largely residential but you can walk to the Haight’s bars and restaurants. No elevator. Chateau Tivoli B&B $$ (Map p128; % 415-776-5462; www.chateautivoli. com; 1057 Steiner St; r$175-300, without bathroom $130-200; Wc ; g 5, 22) This imposing,

glorious chateau on a secondary thoroughfare near Alamo Square once hosted Isadora Duncan and Mark Twain, and though its two-toned gabled roofs have faded, its grand domed turrets, cornices and gorgeous carved woodwork retain their luster. Guest rooms are full of soul, character and, rumor has it, the ghost of a Victorian opera diva. No elevator, no TVs.

5 Eating Hope you’re hungry – there are more restaurants per capita in San Francisco than in any other US city. Most of the top-ranked restaurants are quite small, so reserve ahead. For bargain eats, hit Mission taquerias, Chinatown dim sum joints, North Beach delis and food trucks all around town.

5 Embarcadero & SoMa Ferry Plaza Farmers Market MARKET $ (Map p128; % 415-291-3276; www.cuesa.org; Market St & the Embarcadero; h 10am-2pm Tue & Thu, 8am-2pm Sat; m Embarcadero) The

Ferry Building market showcases California-grown, organic produce, artisan meats and gourmet-prepared foods at moderateto-premium prices – plus an excellent selection of food trucks on weekends. 1601 Bar & Kitchen CALIFORNIAN, FUSION $$ (Map p128; % 415-552-1601; http://1601sf.com/; 1601 Howard St; mains $12-22; h 6-10pm TueThu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; g 9, 12, 47, m Van Ness)

S Rising star-chef alert: Brian Fernando

is turning Sri Lankan inspirations into Californian cravings. Velvety halibut ceviche in coconut milk is an instant obsession, Marin

Sun Farms goat stew with red basmati rice for two is date worthy, and you’ll want the pork belly and fenugreek-vinegar home fries again for breakfast. Ingenuity without pretension, at half the cost of most downtown tasting menus ($76 here).

oBenu

CALIFORNIAN, FUSION $$$

(Map p128; % 415-685-4860; www.benusf.com; 22 Hawthorne St; tasting menu $228; h 5:30-8:30pm seatings Tue-Sat; g 10, 12, 14, 30, 45) SF has set

fusion-cuisine standards for 150 years, but chef-owner Corey Lee remixes California ingredients and Pacific Rim inspiration with a superstar DJ’s finesse. Dungeness crab and truffle custard bring such outsize flavor to Lee’s faux-shark’s fin soup, you’ll swear there’s Jaws in there. The prix-fixe menu is pricey (plus 20% service), but don’t miss star-sommelier Yoon Ha’s ingenious pairings ($160).

5 Union Square, Civic Center & Hayes Valley

Sweet Woodruff CALIFORNIAN $ (Map p128; % 415-292-9090; www.sweetwoodruffsf.com; 798 Sutter St; mains $8-14; h 8am9:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-9:30pm Sat & Sun; v ; g 2, 3, j California) S Little sister to

ground-breaking, Michelin-starred Sons & Daughters, this storefront gourmet hot spot uses ingredients grown on the restaurant’s own farm in its abbreviated, affordable small-plates menu. There’s limited service and a tiny kitchen, yet somehow it turns out sourdough pancakes, homemade soups, impeccable bone-marrow deviled eggs and inspired vegetarian options like beet burgers. Brenda’s French Soul Food CREOLE, SOUTHERN $$ (Map p128; % 415-345-8100; www.frenchsoulfood. com; 652 Polk St; mains lunch $9-13, dinner $12-17; h 8am-3pm Mon & Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat, to 8pm Sun; g 19, 31, 38, 47, 49) Chef-owner Brenda

Buenviaje blends New Orleans–style Creole cooking with French technique into ‘French soul food.’ Expect updated classics like beignets, serious biscuits and grits, impeccable Hangtown Fry (eggs with bacon and fried oysters), and fried chicken with collard greens and hot-pepper jelly. Long waits on sketchy sidewalks are unavoidable – but Brenda serves takeout sandwiches two doors down.

1 37 Rich Table CALIFORNIAN $$$ (Map p128; % 415-355-9085; http://richtablesf. com; 199 Gough St; mains $12-30; h 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat; g 5, 6, 7, 21, 47, 49, m Van Ness) S Satisfy cravings for taste

5 Chinatown & North Beach Liguria Bakery BAKERY $ (Map p128; % 415-421-3786; 1700 Stockton St; focaccia $4-5; h 8am-1pm Tue-Fri, from 7am Sat; v c ; g 8, 30, 39, 41, 45, j Powell-Mason) Bleary-

eyed art students and Italian grandmothers are in line by 8am for cinnamon-raisin focaccia hot out of the 100-year-old oven, leaving 9am dawdlers a choice of tomato or classic rosemary/garlic and 11am stragglers out of luck. Take yours in wax paper or boxed for picnics – but don’t kid yourself that you’re going to save some for later. Cash only. Molinari DELI $ (Map p128; % 415-421-2337; www.molinarisalame. com; 373 Columbus Ave; sandwiches $10-12.50; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5:30pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; g 8, 10, 12, 30, 39, 41, 45, j Powell-Mason)

Grab a number and a crusty roll, and when your number rolls around, wise-cracking deli staff in paper hats will stuff it with translucent sheets of prosciutto di Parma, milky buffalo mozzarella, tender marinated artichokes or slabs of the legendary house-cured salami. Enjoy yours hot from the panini press at sidewalk tables or in Washington Sq. City View CHINESE $ (Map p128; % 415-398-2838; http://cityviewdimsum.com; 662 Commercial St; dishes $3-8; h 11am2:30pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; c ; g 1, 8, 10, 12, 30, 45, j California St) Take your seat in

the sunny dining room and your pick from carts loaded with delicate shrimp and leek dumplings, garlicky Chinese broccoli, tangy spare ribs, coconut-dusted custard tarts and other tantalizing dim sum. Arrive before the midday lunch rush, so you can nab seats in the sunny upstairs room and get first dibs from passing carts.

aromas into this tiny hot spot for thin-crust Roman pizza, made from scratch and served with sass by Roman owner Romina. Local loyalties are divided between the Roman Travestere (fresh mozzarella, arugula and prosciutto) and Neapolitan O Sole Mio (capers, olives, mozzarella and anchovies). Local brews are on tap, house wine is $5 from 4pm to 7pm, and Romina’s tiramisu is San Francisco’s best. Z & Y CHINESE $$ (Map p128; % 415-981-8988; www.zandyrestaurant.com; 655 Jackson St; mains $9-20; h 11am10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun; g 8, 10, 12, 30, 45, j Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde) Graduate from

ho-hum sweet-and-sour and middling mushu to sensational Szechuan dishes that go down in a blaze of glory. Warm up with spicy pork dumplings and heat-blistered string beans, take on the housemade tantan noodles with peanut-chili sauce, and leave lips buzzing with fish poached in flaming chili oil and buried under red Szechuan chili peppers. Go early; it’s worth the wait.

5 Fisherman’s Wharf, the Marina & Presidio

Off the Grid FOOD TRUCK $ (Map p128; www.offthegridsf.com; items $5-12; h Fort Mason Center 5-10pm Fri Apr-Oct, Presidio 5-9pm Thu Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Sun Apr-Nov; c ; g 22, 28) Some 30 food trucks circle their

wagons at SF’s largest mobile-gourmet hootenannys on Friday night at Fort Mason Center (2 Marina Blvd), and Sunday midday for Picnic at the Presidio and Thursday evenings for Twilight at the Presidio (both on the Main Post Lawn). Arrive early for best selection and to minimize waits. Cash only. Fisherman’s Wharf Crab Stands SEAFOOD $ (Map p128; Taylor St; mains $5-15; m F) Brawny-

armed men stir steaming cauldrons of Dungeness crab at several side-by-side takeout stands at the foot of Taylor St, the epicenter of Fisherman’s Wharf. Crab season typically runs winter through spring, but you’ll find shrimp and other seafood year-round.

oGreens

VEGETARIAN, CALIFORNIAN $$

(Map p128; % 415-771-6222; www.greensrestau rant.com; Bldg A, Fort Mason Center, cnr Marina

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adventures at Rich Table, home of dried porcini doughnuts, octopus confit and totally trippy beet marshmallows. Married co-chefs/owners Sarah and Evan Rich riff on seasonal California fare like jazz masters, hitting their groove with exquisitely playful amuse-bouches like the Dirty Hippie: silky goat-buttermilk panna cotta with hemp – a dish as offbeat and entrancing as Hippie Hill drum circles.

Cinecittà PIZZA $$ (Map p128; % 415-291-8830; www.cinecittarestau rant.com; 663 Union St; pizzas $12-15; h noon10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; vc ; g 8X, 30, 39, 41, 45, j Powell-Mason) Follow tantalizing

138 Blvd & Laguna St; lunch $15-18, dinner $18-25; h 11:45am-2:30pm & 5:30-9pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat, 10:30am-2pm & 5:30-9pm Sun, 5:30-9pm Mon; vc ; g 28) S Career carnivores won’t re-

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alize there’s zero meat in the hearty blackbean chili, or in the other flavor-packed vegetarian dishes, made using ingredients from a Zen farm in Marin. And oh!, what views – the Golden Gate rises just outside the window-lined dining room. The on-site cafe serves to-go lunches. For sit-down meals, including Sunday brunch, reservations are essential.

5 The Mission & the Castro oLa Taqueria

MEXICAN $

(% 415-285-7117; 2889 Mission St; burritos $68; h 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; c ; g 12, 14, 48, 49, Z 24th St Mission) SF’s definitive

burrito has no debatable saffron rice, spinach tortilla or mango salsa – just perfectly grilled meats, slow-cooked beans and classic tomatillo or mesquite salsa wrapped in a flour tortilla. You’ll pay extra without beans, because they pack in more meat. Spicy pickles and crema (Mexican sour cream) bring complete burrito bliss. Craftsman & Wolves BAKERY, CALIFORNIAN $ (% 415-913-7713; http://craftsman-wolves.com; 746 Valencia St; pastries $3-7; h 7am-7pm MonThu, to 8pm Fri, 8am-8pm Sat, to 7pm Sun; g 14, 22, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission, m J) Conventional

breakfasts can’t compare to the Rebel Within: savory sausage-spiked Asiago cheese muffin with a silken soft-boiled egg baked inside. SF’s surest pick-me-up is Highwire macchiato and matcha (green tea) snicker doodle cookies; Thai coconut curry scone, chilled pea soup and Provence rosé make a sublime lunch. Exquisite hazelnut and horchata (cinnamon-rice) cube cakes are ideal for celebrating SF half-birthdays, foggy days and imaginary holidays. Mission Chinese FUSION $$ (Lung Shan; % 415-863-2800; www.missionchinesefood.com; 2234 Mission St; mains $12-20; h 11:30am-3pm & 5-10:30pm Thu-Mon, 5-10:30pm Tue & Wed; g 14, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission) Ex-

treme gourmets and Chinese takeout fans converge on Danny Bowien’s cult-food dive. Tiki pork belly with pickled pineapple and spicy lamb-face (sheep’s cheek) noodles are big enough for two – though not for the saltshy – and satisfy your conscience: 75¢ from each main is donated to San Francisco Food

Bank. Wine corkage is $10; parties of eight or less.

oFrances

CALIFORNIAN $$$

(% 415-621-3870; www.frances-sf.com; 3870 17th St; mains $22-30; h 5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat; m Castro) Chef/owner Melissa Perel-

lo earned a Michelin star for fine dining, then ditched downtown to start this market- inspired neighborhood bistro. Daily menus showcase bright, seasonal flavors and luxurious textures: cloudlike sheep’s-milk ricotta gnocchi with crunchy breadcrumbs and broccolini, grilled calamari with preserved Meyer lemon, and artisan wine served by the ounce, directly from Wine Country. Commonwealth CALIFORNIAN $$$ (% 415-355-1500; www.commonwealthsf.com; 2224 Mission St; small plates $13-18; h 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; v ; g 14, 22, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission) Wildly imaginative farm-to-

table dining where you’d least expect it: in a converted cinderblock Mission dive. Chef Jason Fox serves adventurous, exquisitely Instagrammable compositions like uni (sea urchin) and popcorn atop cauliflower pudding, and foie gras in an oatmeal crust with tangy rhubarb. Dishes are dainty but pack wallops of earthy flavors. Savor the $75 prix fixe, knowing $10 is donated to charity.

5 The Haight & Fillmore Rosamunde Sausage Grill FAST FOOD $ (Map p128; % 415-437-6851; http://rosamundesausagegrill.com; 545 Haight St; sausages $7-7.50; h 11:30am-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat; g 6, 7, 22, m N) Impress a dinner date on the cheap:

load up classic Brats or duck-fig links with complimentary roasted peppers, grilled onions, whole-grain mustard and mango chutney, and enjoy with your choice of 45 seasonal draft brews at Toronado (p139) next door. To impress a local lunch date, call ahead or line up by 11:30 Tuesdays for massive $6 burgers. Magnolia Brewpub CALIFORNIAN, AMERICAN $$ (% 415-864-7468; www.magnoliapub.com; 1398 Haight St; mains $14-26; h 11am-midnight MonThu, to 1am Fri, 10am-1am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; g 6, 7, 33, 43) S Organic pub grub and home-

brew samplers keep conversation flowing at communal tables, while grass-fed Prather Ranch burgers satisfy stoner appetites in booths – it’s like the Summer of Love all over again, only with better food. Morning-after brunches of quinoa hash with brewer’s yeast

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are plenty curative, but Cole Porter pints are powerful enough to revive the Grateful Dead.

oState Bird Provisions

CALIFORNIAN $$$

winning back-to-back James Beard Awards, State Bird attracted lines for 5:30pm seatings not seen since the Dead played neighbouring Fillmore Auditorium. The draw is a thrilling play on dim sum, wildly inventive with seasonal-regional ingredients and esoteric flavors, like fennel pollen or garum. Plan to order multiple dishes. Book exactly 60 days ahead.

5 Golden Gate Park & Around Outerlands CALIFORNIAN $$ (Map p124; % 415-661-6140; www.outerlandssf. com; 4001 Judah St; sandwiches & small plates $714, mains $18-22; h 10am-3pm Tue-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun, 5:30-10pm Tue-Sun; v c ; g 18, m N)

S When windy Ocean Beach leaves you

feeling shipwrecked, drift into this beachshack bistro for organic, California-coastal comfort food. Brunch demands Dutch pancakes in iron skillets with housemade ricotta, lunch brings $12 grilled artisan cheese combos with surfer-warming soup, and dinner means light, creative coastal fare like clam stew with mezcal broth (hungry surfers: order house-baked levain bread). Reserve ahead. Burma Superstar BURMESE $$ (Map p124; % 415-387-2147; www.burmasuperstar. com; 309 Clement St; mains $11-28; h 11:30am3:30pm & 5-9:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; g 1, 2, 33, 38, 44) Yes, there’s a wait, but do

you see anyone walking away? Blame it on fragrant moh hinga (catfish curry) and traditional Burmese green-tea salads tarted up with lime and dried shrimp. Reservations aren’t accepted; ask the host to call you so you can browse Burmese cookbooks at Green Apple Books while you wait.

6 Drinking & Nightlife

BAR

(Map p128; % 415-869-1900; www.smugglers covesf.com; 650 Gough St; h 5pm-1:15am; g 5, 21, 47, 49, m Civic Center) Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of

rum…or maybe a Dead Reckoning with Angostura bitters, Nicaraguan rum, tawny port and vanilla liqueur, unless someone will share the flaming Scorpion Bowl? Pirates are bedeviled by choice at this Barbary Coast shipwreck tiki bar, hidden behind a tinted-glass door. With 400-plus rums and 70 cocktails gleaned from rum-running around the world, you won’t be dry-docked long. Comstock Saloon BAR (Map p128; % 415-617-0071; www.comstocksaloon. com; 155 Columbus Ave; h noon-2am Mon-Fri, 4pm-2am Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun; g 8, 10, 12, 30, 45, j Powell-Mason) Relieving yourself in the

marble trough below the bar is no longer advisable, but otherwise this 1907 Victorian saloon revives the Barbary Coast’s glory days. Get the authentic Pisco Punch or martini-precursor Martinez (gin, vermouth, bitters, maraschino liqueur). Reserve booths or back-parlor seating, so you can hear dates when ragtime-jazz bands play. Call it dinner with pot pie and buckets of shrimp. Ritual Coffee Roasters CAFE (% 415-641-1011; www.ritualroasters.com; 1026 Valencia St; h 6am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 7am10pm Sat, to 8pm Sun; g 14, 49, Z 24th St Mission)

Cults wish they inspired the same devotion as Ritual, where regulars solemnly queue for house-roasted cappuccino with ferns drawn in foam and specialty drip coffees with highly distinctive flavor profiles – descriptions comparing roasts to grapefruit peel or hazelnut aren’t exaggerating. Electrical outlets are limited to encourage conversation, so you can eavesdrop on dates, art debates and political-protest plans. Local Edition BAR (Map p128; % 415-795-1375; www.localeditionsf. com; 691 Market St; h 5pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 7pm Sat; m Montgomery, Z Montgomery) Get the

scoop on the SF cocktail scene at this new speakeasy in the basement of the historic Hearst newspaper building. Lighting is so dim you might bump into typewriters, but all is forgiven when you get The Pulitzer – a scotch-sherry cocktail that goes straight to your head.

For a pub crawl, start with North Beach saloons or Mission bars around Valencia and 16th Sts. The Castro has historic gay bars; SoMa adds dance clubs. Downtown and around Union Square mix dives with speak- Toronado PUB easies. Haight bars draw mixed alterna- (Map p128; % 415-863-2276; www.toronado.com; crowds. 547 Haight St; h 11:30am-2am; g 6, 7, 22, m N)

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(Map p128; % 415-795-1272; http://statebirdsf. com; 1529 Fillmore St; dishes $9-26; h 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; g 22, 38) Even before

oSmuggler’s Cove

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Glory hallelujah, beer lovers: your prayers have been answered. Be humbled before the chalkboard altar that lists 45-plus beers on tap and hundreds more bottled, including spectacular seasonal microbrews. Bring cash and order sausages from Rosamunde (p138) next door to accompany ale made by Trappist monks. It may get too loud to hear your date talk, but you’ll hear angels sing. Elixir BAR (% 415-522-1633; www.elixirsf.com; 3200 16th St; h 3pm-2am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat, from 10am Sun; g 14, 22, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission, m J) S

Do the planet a favor and have another drink at SF’s first certified-green bar, in an actual 1858 Wild West saloon. Elixir expertly blends farm-fresh seasonal mixers with small-batch, organic, even biodynamic spirits – dastardly tasty organic basil Negronis and kumquat caipirinhas will get you air-guitar-rocking to the killer jukebox. Drink-for-a-cause Wednesdays encourage imbibing, with proceeds supporting local charities. Trick Dog BAR (% 415-471-2999; www.trickdogbar.com; 3010 20th St; h 3pm-2am; g 12, 14, 49) Drink adventur-

ously with ingenious cocktails inspired by local obsessions: SF landmarks, Chinese diners, ’70s hits, horoscope signs. Every six months, Trick Dog adopts a new theme, and the entire menu changes – proof that you can teach an old dog new tricks, and improve on classics like the Manhattan. Arrive early for bar stools or hit the mood-lit loft for high-concept bar bites. El Rio CLUB (% 415-282-3325; www.elriosf.com; 3158 Mission St; cover free-$8; h 1pm-2am; g 12, 14, 27, 49, Z 24th St Mission) Work it all out on the

dance floor with SF’s most down and funky crowd – SF’s full rainbow spectrum of colorful characters is here to party. Calendar highlights include Wednesday’s aptly named Mayhem Karaoke, Thursday ping-pong marathons, free oysters Fridays at 5:30pm, and monthly drag-star Daytime Realness. Expect knockout margaritas and shameless flirting in the back garden. Cash only.

3 Entertainment

oSFJAZZ Center

JAZZ

(Map p128; % 866-920-5299; www.sfjazz.org; 201 Franklin St; tickets $25-120; h showtimes vary; g 5, 6, 7, 21, 47, 49, m Van Ness) Jazz greats

coast-to-coast and legends from Argentina to Yemen are showcased at America’s newest, largest jazz center. Hear fresh takes on classic jazz albums like Ah Um and Getz/ Gilberto downstairs in the Lab, or book ahead for extraordinary main-stage collaborations like Laurie Anderson with David Coulter playing the saw, or pianist Jason Moran’s performance with skateboarders improvising moves on indoor ramps.

oAmerican Conservatory

Theater THEATER (ACT; Map p128; % 415-749-2228; www.act-sf. org; 415 Geary St; h box office noon-6pm Mon, to curtain Tue-Sun; g 8, 30, 38, 45, j Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde, Z Powell, m Powell) Breakthrough

shows launch at this turn-of-the-century landmark, which has hosted ACT’s landmark productions of Tony Kushner’s Angels in America and Robert Wilson’s Black Rider, with William S Burroughs’ libretto and music by Tom Waits. Major playwrights like Tom Stoppard, David Mamet and Sam Shepard premiere work here, while experimental works are staged at ACT’s new Strand Theater (Map p128; 1127 Market St). San Francisco Opera OPERA (Map p128; % 415-864-3330; www.sfopera.com; War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave; tickets $10-350; g 21, 45, 47, Z Civic Center, m Van Ness) Opera was SF’s Gold Rush soundtrack –

and today, SF rivals NYC’s the Met with world premieres of original works covering WWII Italy (Two Women, or La Ciociara), Stephen King thrillers (Dolores Claiborne), and Qing-dynasty Chinese courtesans (Dream of the Red Chamber). Don’t miss Tuscany-born musical director Nicola Liusotti’s signature Verdi operas. Score $10 same-day standing-room tickets at 10am and two hours before curtain. San Francisco Ballet DANCE (Map p128; % tickets 415-865-2000; www.sfballet. org; War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave; tickets $15-160; h ticket sales 10am-4pm Mon-Fri; g 5, 21, 47, 49, m Van Ness, Z Civic Center) Amer-

At Union Square, TIX Bay Area (Map p128; ica’s oldest ballet company is looking sharp www.tixbayarea.org; 350 Powell St) sells last- in more than 100 shows annually, from the minute theater tickets for half-price. Nutcracker (the US premiere was here) to

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the stage). Don’t miss the priceless collection of psychedelic posters in the upstairs gallery.

Fillmore Auditorium LIVE MUSIC (Map p128; % 415-346-6000; http://thefillmore. com; 1805 Geary Blvd; admission $20-50; h box office 10am-3pm Sun, plus 30min before doors open on show nights until 10pm; g 22, 38) Jimi

Everyone busts out their best sets at this opulent 1907 former bordello – the Dead occasionally show up, Tuvan throat-singing supergroup Huun Huur Tu throws down and John Waters throws Christmas extravaganzas here. Pay $25 extra for dinner with priority admission and prime balcony seating where you can watch shows comfortably, or enter the standing-room scrum downstairs and rock out on the floor.

Hendrix, Janis Joplin, the Doors – they all played the Fillmore. Now you might catch the Indigo Girls, Duran Duran or Tracy Chapman in the historic 1250-capacity, standing-room theater (if you’re polite and lead with the hip, you might squeeze up to

Great American Music Hall LIVE MUSIC (Map p128; % 415-885-0750; www.gamh.com; 859 O’Farrell St; shows $16-26; h box office 10:30am6pm Mon-Fri & on show nights; g 19, 38, 47, 49)

LGBTIQ SAN FRANCISCO Doesn’t matter where you’re from, who you love or who your daddy is: if you’re here, and queer, welcome home. The Castro is the heart of the gay cruising scene, but South of Market (SoMa) has leather bars and thump-thump clubs. The Mission is the preferred ’hood for many women and a diverse transgender community. Bay Area Reporter (aka BAR; www.ebar.com) covers community news and listings. San Francisco Bay Times (www.sfbaytimes.com) focuses on LGBTIQ perspectives and events. Free Gloss Magazine (www.glossmagazine.net) locks down nightlife. Over 1.5 million people come out for SF Pride (p132) parades and parties in late June. For weekly roving dance parties, check Honey Soundsystem (Map p128; http:// hnysndsystm.tumblr.com/).

Blackbird (% 415-503-0630; www.blackbirdbar.com; 2124 Market St; h 3pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun; m Church) Castro’s first-choice lounge offers craft cocktails, billiards and everyone’s favorite: a photo booth. Hi Tops (http://hitopssf.com; 2247 Market St; h 4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 4pm-2am Thu & Fri, 11am-2am Sat, noon-2am Sun; m Castro) Castro’s prime-time sports bar for friendly guys, big-screen TVs, shuffleboard and pub grub. Cafe Flore (% 415-621-8579; www.cafeflore.com; 2298 Market St; h 7am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W ; m Castro) You haven’t done the Castro till you’ve lollygagged on the sundrenched patio here. Stud (Map p128; www.studsf.com; 399 9th St; admission $5-8; h noon-2am Tue, 5pm-3am ThuSat, 5pm-midnight Sun; g 12, 19, 27, 47) Rocking SoMa’s gay scene since 1966. Anything goes here, especially on ‘Club Some Thing’ Fridays. Oasis (Map p128; % 415-795-3180; www.sfoasis.com/; 298 11th St; tickets $10-30; g 9, 12, 14, 47, m Van Ness) SoMa drag shows so fearless and funny, you’ll laugh till it hurts. Afterwards, shake it on the dance floor. EndUp (Map p128; % 415-646-0999; www.theendup.com; 401 6th St; admission $5-20; h 10pm Thu-4am Fri, 11pm Fri-11am Sat, 10pm Sat-4am Mon, 10pm Mon-4am Tue; g 12, 19, 27, 47) A mixed gay/straight crowd and marathon dance parties that don’t end with sunrise over the 101 freeway ramp. Aunt Charlie’s Lounge (Map p128; % 415-441-2922; www.auntcharlieslounge.com; 133 Turk St; admission free-$5; h noon-2am Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; g 27, 31, m Powell, Z Powell) Tenderloin drag dive bar for fabulously seedy glamour and a vintage pulp fiction vibe.

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modern Mark Morris originals. It performs mostly at War Memorial Opera House January to May, with occasional performances at Yerba Buena Center for the Arts. Score $15 to $20 same-day standing-room tickets at the box office (noon Tuesday to Friday, 10am weekends).

142 Beach Blanket Babylon CABARET (BBB; Map p128; % 415-421-4222; www.beachblanketbabylon.com; 678 Green St; admission $25-100; h shows 8pm Wed, Thu & Fri, 6:30pm & 9:30pm Sat, 2pm & 5pm Sun; g 8, 30, 39, 41, 45, j Powell-Mason) Snow White searches for Prince Charm-

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ing in San Francisco: what could possibly go wrong? The Disney-spoof musical-comedy cabaret has been running since 1974, but topical jokes keep it outrageous and wigs big as parade floats are gasp-worthy. Spectators must be over 21 to handle racy humor, except at cleverly sanitized Sunday matinees. Reservations essential; arrive one hour early for best seats. Independent LIVE MUSIC (% 415-771-1421; www.theindependentsf.com; 628 Divisadero St; tickets $12-45; h box office 11am6pm Mon-Fri, to 9:30pm show nights; g 5, 6, 7, 21, 24) Shows earn street cred at the intimate

Independent, featuring indie dreamers (Magnetic Fields, Death Cab for Cutie), rock legends (Meat Puppets, Luscious Jackson), alterna-pop (The Killers, Imagine Dragons) and comedians (Dave Chapelle, Comedians of Comedy). Ventilation is poor, but drinks are cheap – and movie nights offer free shows with a two-drink minimum.

SAN FRANCISCO’S BEST SHOPPING AREAS

Castro Theatre CINEMA (% 415-621-6120; www.castrotheatre.com; 429 Castro St; adult/child $11/8.50; h showtimes vary; m Castro) The Mighty Wurlitzer organ rises

from the orchestra pit before evening performances and the audience cheer for the Great American Songbook, ending with: ‘San Francisco open your Golden Gate/You let no stranger wait outside your door…’ If there’s a cult classic on the bill, say, Whatever Happened to Baby Jane?, expect participation. Otherwise, crowds are well behaved and rapt.

Roxie Cinema CINEMA (% 415-863-1087; www.roxie.com; 3117 16th St; regular screening/matinee $10/7.50; h showtimes vary; g 14, 22, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission) This lit-

tle neighborhood nonprofit cinema earns international clout for distributing documentaries and showing controversial films banned elsewhere. Tickets to film-festival premieres, rare revivals and raucous annual Oscars telecasts sell out – reserve tickets online – but if the main show is packed, check out documentaries in teensy next-door Little Roxy instead. No ads, plus personal introductions to every film.

Sundance Kabuki Cinema CINEMA (Map p128; % 415-346-3243; www.sundancecinemas.com; 1881 Post St; adult $10.50-15, child $9.7513; g 2, 3, 22, 38) S Cinema-going at its best.

Ferry Building Local food, wine and kitchenware.

Reserve a stadium seat, belly up to the bar, and order wine and surprisingly good food to enjoy during the film. A multiplex initiative by Robert Redford’s Sundance Institute, Kabuki features big-name flicks and festivals – and it’s green, with recycled-fiber seating, reclaimed-wood decor and local chocolates and booze. Validated parking available.

Hayes Valley Independent fashion designers, housewares, gifts.

7 Shopping

All those rustic-chic dens, well-stocked cupboards and fabulous outfits don’t just pull themselves together – San Franciscans scoured their city for it all. Here’s where to find what:

Valencia Street Bookstores, local design collectives, art galleries, vintage whatever. Haight Street Head shops, music, vintage, skate and surf gear. Union Square Department stores, megabrands, discount retail, Apple store. Russian Hill and the Marina Date outfits, urban accessories, housewares, gifts. Grant Avenue From Chinatown souvenirs to funky North Beach boutiques.

Aggregate Supply CLOTHING, GIFTS (% 415-474-3190; www.aggregatesupplysf.com; 806 Valencia St; h 11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; g 14, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission) Wild West

modern is the look at Aggregate Supply, purveyors of West Coast cool fashion and home decor. Local designers and indie makers get pride of place, including vintage Heath stoneware mugs, Turk+Taylor’s ombre plaid shirt-jackets, and ingeniously repurposed rodeo- saddle tassel necklaces. Souvenirs don’t get more authentically local than Aggregate Supply’s own op-art California graphic tee and NorCal-forest-scented organic soaps.

143 Betabrand CLOTHING (% 800-694-9491; www.betabrand.com; 780 Valencia St; h 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun; g 14, 22, 33, 49, Z 16th St Mission) Crowd-

m Powell

St, Z Powell St) Good rates on exchange; centrally located near Union Square.

suit onesie – but at these prices you can afford to take fashion risks.

Local Take GIFTS (www.localtakesf.com; 3979 B 17th St; h 11am-7pm; m Castro) S This marvelous little shop, next

to the F-Market terminus, carries the perfect gifts to take home: SF-specific merchandise, all made locally. Our favorite items include a miniature scale model of Sutro Tower; T-shirts emblazoned with iconic SF locales; cable-car and Golden Gate Bridge jewelry; woodcut city maps; knit caps; and snappy one-of-a-kind belt buckles.

88 Information DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Keep your city smarts and wits about you in the Tenderloin and SoMa. MEDIA KPFA 94.1 FM (www.kpfa.org) Alternative news, music and culture. KPOO 89.5 FM (www.kpoo.com) Community radio plays jazz, blues, soul and world beats. KQED 88.5 FM (www.kqed.org) NPR affiliate for news, talk, arts and educational programming. San Francisco Chronicle (www.sfgate.com) The city’s main daily newspaper. SF Weekly (www.sfweekly.com) Free weekly tabloid covering food, arts, entertainment and events. MEDICAL SERVICES San Francisco General Hospital (% emergency 415-206-8111, main hospital 415-2068000; www.sfdph.org; 1001 Potrero Ave; h 24hr; g 9, 10, 33, 48) Best for serious trauma. Provides care to uninsured patients, including psychiatric care; no documentation required beyond ID. MONEY Currency Exchange International (% 415-9746600; www.sanfranciscocurrencyexchange. com; Westfield Center, 865 Market St, Level 1; h 10am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun;

USEFUL WEBSITES 7x7 (www.7x7.com) Trend spotting SF restaurants, bars, style and tech. SFGate (www.sfgate.com) News and arts, entertainment and events listings.

88 Getting There & Away AIR San Francisco International Airport (SFO; www.flysfo.com; S McDonnell Rd) is 14 miles south of downtown, off Hwy 101 and accessible by Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART). Serving primarily domestic destinations, Oakland International Airport (OAK; www.oaklandairport.com; 1 Airport Dr; W ) is a 40-minute BART ride across the Bay, while Mineta San José International Airport (www.flysanjose.com; 1701 Airport Blvd, San Jose) is 45 miles south via Hwy 101. BUS Until 2017, San Francisco’s intercity hub remains the Temporary Transbay Terminal (Map p128; Howard & Main Sts), where you can catch buses on AC Transit (% 511; www.actransit.org) to the East Bay, Golden Gate Transit (% 415-4552000, 511; www.goldengatetransit.org) north to Marin and Sonoma Counties, and SamTrans (% 800-660-4287; www.samtrans.com) south to Palo Alto and along coastal Hwy 1. Greyhound (% 800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com) buses leave several times daily for Los Angeles ($59, eight to 12 hours) and many other destinations. TRAIN Two long-distance Amtrak (% 800-872-7245; www.amtrakcalifornia.com) trains, the Coast Starlight (Los Angeles–Seattle) and California Zephyr from Chicago, stop at Oakland’s Jack London Sq. So do the Capitol Corridor and San Joaquin intra-California trains to/from Sacramento; the latter has connecting bus services to Yosemite Valley from Merced. Amtrak runs free shuttle buses for its passengers to San Francisco’s Ferry Building and CalTrain station. CalTrain (www.caltrain.com; cnr 4th & King Sts) connects San Francisco with Silicon Valley hubs and San Jose.

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TOURIST INFORMATION San Francisco Visitor Information Center source your fashion choices at Betabrand, (Map p128; % 415-391-2000; www.sanfranwhere experimental designs are put to an cisco.travel; Hallidie Plaza, Market & Powell Sts, online vote and winners are produced in lower level; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & limited editions. Recent approved designs Sun; j Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde, m Powell include office-ready dress yoga pants, disco- St, Z Powell St) Provides practical multilingual ball windbreakers and sundresses with a information, sells transportation passes, pubsmiling-poo-emoji print. Some styles are lishes glossy maps and booklets, and provides clunkers – including the ‘suitsy,’ a business- interactive touch screens.

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88 Getting Around For Bay Area transit options, call % 511 or check http://511.org.

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TO/FROM SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT From SFO’s BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit; www. bart.gov; one way $8.65) station, connected to the International Terminal, it’s a 30-minute ride to downtown SF. A taxi to downtown SF from SFO costs $40 to $55, plus tip. SuperShuttle (% 800-258-3826; www.supershuttle.com) offers shared van rides for $17 per person. BOAT Blue & Gold Fleet (% 415-705-8200; www. blueandgoldfleet.com) operates ferries to Sausalito ($11.50), Angel Island ($9) and Oakland’s Jack London Sq ($6.40) from SF’s Ferry Building and/or Pier 41. Golden Gate Ferry (% 415-455-2000, 511; http://goldengateferry.org) runs from SF’s Ferry Building to Sausalito ($11.25) in Marin County.

Marin County

Majestic redwoods cling to tawny coastal headlands just across the Golden Gate Bridge in laid-back Marin. The southernmost town, Sausalito (www.sausalito.org), is a tiny bayfront destination for cycling trips over the bridge (take the ferry back to San Francisco). Near the harbor, where picturesque bohemian houseboats are docked, the Bay Model Visitors Center (Map

p124; % 415-332-3871; www.spn.usace.army.mil/ Missions/Recreation/BayModelVisitorCenter.aspx; 2100 Bridgeway Blvd; h 9am-4pm Tue-Sat, plus 10am-5pm Sat & Sun in summer; c ) F hous-

es a giant hydraulic re-creation of the entire bay and delta.

Marin Headlands These windswept, rugged headlands are laced with hiking trails, providing panoramic bay and city views. To find the visi-

CAR & MOTORCYCLE Street parking can be harder to find than true love, and meter readers are ruthless. Municipal parking garages charge $1 to $5.50 per hour, or around $16 to $36 per day; for more info, check www.sfmta.com.

tor center (Map p124; % 415-331-1540; www. nps.gov/goga/marin-headlands.htm; Fort Barry; h 9:30am-4:30pm), take the Alexander Ave

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Muni (Municipal Transit Agency; % 511; www. sfmta.com) operates bus, streetcar and cable-car lines. Standard fare for buses or streetcars is $2.25; cable-car rides are $7. Ask for a free transfer (not valid on cable cars) when boarding. A Visitor Passport (one/three/seven days $17/26/35) allows unlimited travel on all Muni transport, including cable cars; it’s sold at the Powell St cable car turnaround (p120), San Francisco Visitor Information Center (p143) and Union Square’s TIX Bay Area (p140) kiosk. A nine-day City Pass (www.citypass.com; adult/child $94/69) covers Muni, a bay cruise and admission to three attractions. BART links San Francisco with the East Bay and runs beneath Market St, down Mission St and south to SFO and Millbrae, where it connects with CalTrain.

Bonita Lighthouse (Map p124; www.nps.gov/ goga/pobo.htm; off Field Rd; h 12:30-3:30pm Sat-Mon) F, Cold War–era Nike Missle Site SF-88 (Map p124; % 415-331-1453; www. nps.gov/goga/nike-missile-site.htm; off Field Rd; h 12:30pm-3:30pm Thu-Sat) F and the educational Marine Mammal Center (Map p124; % 415-289-7325; www.marinemammalcenter.org; 2000 Bunker Rd; h 10am-5pm; c ) SF uphill from Rodeo Beach (Map p124). East of Hwy 101 at Fort Baker, the interactive Bay Area Discovery Museum (Map p124; % 415339-3900; www.baykidsmuseum.org; 557 McReynolds Rd; admission $14, 1st Wed each month free; h 9am-5pm Tue-Sun; c ) is awesome for kids. Near the visitor center, HI Marin Headlands Hostel (Map p124; % 415-331-2777; www. norcalhostels.org/marin; Fort Barry, Bldg 941; dm $26-30, r $72-92, all without bath; i ) S occupies

TAXI Fares run about $2.75 per mile; meters start at $3.50. Hailing a cab in the street can be difficult. Download the mobile app Flywheel (http:// flywheel.com) for prompt service.

exit after crossing north over the Golden Gate Bridge, turn left under the freeway and follow the signs. Attractions west of Hwy 101 include Point

two 1907 military buildings on a forested hill. For historical luxury, book a fireplace room with bay views at Fort Baker’s LEEDcertified Cavallo Point (Map p124; % 888-6512003, 415-339-4700; www.cavallopoint.com; 601 Murray Circle; r from $359; aiWsc# ) S

lodge.

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Muir Woods National Monument

Point Reyes National Seashore

Wander among an ancient stand of the world’s tallest trees at 550-acre Muir Woods

The windswept peninsula of Point Reyes

miles northwest of the Golden Gate Bridge. Easy hiking trails loop past thousand-yearold coast redwoods at Cathedral Grove. By the entrance, Muir Woods Trading Company (Map p124; % 415-388-7059; www.muirwood stradingcompany.com; 1 Muir Woods Rd, Mill Valley; items $3-11; h from 9am daily, closing varies 4pm to 7pm; c ) S serves light lunches, snacks and

drinks in the cafe. Come midweek to avoid crowds, or arrive early morning or before sunset. Take Hwy 101 to the Hwy 1 exit, then follow the signs. The Muir Woods Shuttle (Route 66F; www.marintransit.org; round-trip adult/child $5/ free; h weekends & holidays Apr-Oct) operates

weekends and holidays from April through October (daily in peak summer season), connecting with Hwy 101 and Sausalito’s ferry terminal.

Mt Tamalpais State Park Majestic Mt Tam (2572ft) is a woodsy playground for hikers and mountain bikers. Mt Tamalpais State Park (Map p124; % 415-3882070; www.parks.ca.gov/mttamalpais; parking $8)

encompasses 6300 acres of parklands and over 200 miles of trails. Don’t miss driving up to East Peak Summit lookout. Panoramic Hwy passes through the park, connecting Muir Woods with Stinson Beach, a coastal town with a sandy crescent-shaped beach on Hwy 1. Park headquarters are Pantoll Station

(% 415-388-2070; www.parks.ca.gov/?page_ id=471; 801 Panoramic Hwy; h variable hours; W ), the nexus of many trails, with a firstcome, first-served campground (Map p124; Panoramic Hwy; tent sites $25). Book far ahead

for a rustic cabin (no electricity or running water) or walk-in campsite at Steep Ravine (% 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; NovSep; tent sites $25, cabins $100), off Hwy 1 south

of Stinson Beach. Or hike in with a sleeping bag, towel and food to off-the-grid West

Point Inn (Map p124; % info 415-388-9955, reservations 415-646-0702; www.westpointinn.com; 100 Old Railroad Grade Fire Rd, Mill Valley; r per adult/ child $50/25); reservations required.

National Seashore (www.nps.gov/pore) F

juts 10 miles out to sea on an entirely different tectonic plate, protecting over 100 sq miles of beaches, lagoons and forested hills. A mile west of Olema, Bear Valley Visitor Center (% 415-464-5100; www.nps.gov/ pore; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun)

has maps, information and natural-history displays. The 0.6-mile Earthquake Trail, which crosses the San Andreas Fault zone, starts nearby. Crowning the peninsula’s westernmost tip, Point Reyes Lighthouse (% 415-6691534; h lighthouse 10am-4:30pm Fri-Mon, lens room 2:30-4pm Fri-Mon) F is ideal for win-

ter whale-watching. Off Pierce Point Rd, the 10-mile round-trip Tomales Point Trail rolls atop blustery bluffs past herds of tule elk to the peninsula’s northern tip. To paddle out into Tomales Bay, Blue Waters Kayaking (% 415-669-2600; www.bluewaterskayaking. com; rentals/tours from $50/68; c ) launches

from Inverness and Marshall. Nature-lovers bunk at the only in-park lodging, HI Point Reyes Hostel (% 415-6638811; www.norcalhostels.org/reyes; 1390 Limantour Spit Rd; dm $26-29, r $87-130, all without bath; i c ) S, 8 miles inland from the visitor

center. In the coastal town of Inverness, the

Cottages at Point Reyes Seashore (% 415669-7250; www.cottagespointreyes.com; 13275 Sir Francis Drake Blvd; r $129-239; W sc # ) is

a family-friendly place tucked away in the woods. The West Marin Chamber of Commerce (% 415-663-9232; www.pointreyes.org)

checks availability at more cozy inns, cottages and B&Bs. Two miles north of Olema, the tiny town of Point Reyes Station has heart-warming bakeries, cafes and restaurants. Gather a picnic lunch at Tomales Bay Foods & Cowgirl Creamery (www.cowgirlcreamery. com; 80 4th St; sandwiches $6-12; h 10am-6pm Wed-Sun; v ) S or 2 miles west of town at Perry’s Deli (http://perrysinvernessparkgrocery. com; 12301 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Inverness Park; sandwiches $5-11; h 7am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 8am-8pm Sun).

Berkeley

As the birthplace of the 1960s Free Speech Movement, and the home of the hallowed halls of the University of California,

Ca li fo rnia B S an G e rk ttin Ferancisco lge yA round& th e B ay A r e a

National Monument (Map p124; % 415-3882595; www.nps.gov/muwo; 1 Muir Woods Rd, Mill Valley; adult/child $10/free; h 8am-sunset), 10

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Berkeley is no bashful wallflower. You can’t legally walk around nude anymore, but ‘Berserkeley’ remains the Bay Area’s radical hub, crawling with university students, punk skaters and aging Birckenstock-shod hippies. ‘Nuclear Free Zone’ signs mark the city limits.

1 Sights & Activities Leading to the campus’s south gate, Telegraph Avenue is a youthful street carnival, packed with cheap cafes, music stores, street hawkers and buskers. University of California, Berkeley UNIVERSITY (www.berkeley.edu) ‘Cal’ is one of the country’s

top universities and home to 35,000 diverse, politically conscious students. The Visitor Services Center (% 510-642-5215; http://visitors.berkeley.edu; 101 Sproul Hall; h tours usually 10am Mon-Sat & 1pm Sun) has info and leads

free campus tours (reservations required). Cal’s landmark is the 1914 Campanile (Sather Tower; http://visitors.berkeley.edu/camp/; adult/child $3/2; h 10am-3:45pm Mon-Fri, to 4:45pm Sat, 10am-1:30pm & 3-4:45pm Sun; c ), with elevator rides ($3) to the top. The Bancroft Library (% 510-642-3781; www.bancroft. berkeley.edu; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) displays the

small gold nugget that started the California gold rush in 1848.

4 Sleeping Midrange motels line University Ave west of downtown. Downtown Berkeley Inn MOTEL $$ (% 510-843-4043; www.downtownberkeleyinn. com; 2001 Bancroft Way; r $79-129; a W ) A 27-

room budget boutique-style motel with good-sized rooms and correspondingly ample flat-screen TVs. Hotel Shattuck Plaza HOTEL $$$ (% 510-845-7300; www.hotelshattuckplaza.com; 2086 Allston Way; r from $195; ai W ) Peace

is quite posh following a $15-million renovation and greening of this 100-year-old downtown jewel. A foyer of red Italian glass lighting, flocked Victorian-style wallpaper – and yes, a peace sign tiled into the floor – leads to comfortable rooms with down comforters, and an airy, columned restaurant serving all meals. Accommodations off Shattuck are quietest; cityscape rooms boast bay views.

5 Eating & Drinking Ippuku JAPANESE $$ (% 510-665-1969; www.ippukuberkeley.com; 2130 Center St; shared plates $5-20; h 5-10pm SunThu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) Specializing in shōchū,

a distilled alcohol often made from rice or barley, Ippuku is similar to a Tokyo izakaya (Japanese pubs serving food) and beloved by its Japanese expat patrons. Choose from a menu of skewered meats and vegetables and handmade noodles as you settle in at one of the traditional tatami tables (no shoes, please) or cozy booth perches. Reservations essential.

oChez Panisse

CALIFORNIAN $$$

(% cafe 510-548-5049, restaurant 510-548-5525; www.chezpanisse.com; 1517 Shattuck Ave; cafe dinner mains $19-32, restaurant prix-fixe dinner $75-125; h cafe 11:30am-2:45pm & 5-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-3pm & 5-11:30pm Fri & Sat, restaurant seatings 5:30pm & 8pm Mon-Sat) S

Foodies come to worship here at the church of Alice Waters, the inventor of California cuisine. It’s in a lovely arts-and-crafts house in the Gourmet Ghetto, and you can choose to pull all the stops with a prix-fixe meal downstairs, or go less expensive and a tad less formal in the cafe upstairs. Reservations accepted one month ahead. Jupiter PUB (www.jupiterbeer.com; 2181 Shattuck Ave; h 11:30am-1am Mon-Thu, to 1:30am Fri, noon1:30am Sat, to midnight Sun) This downtown

pub has loads of regional microbrews, a beer garden, good pizza and live bands most nights. Sit upstairs for a bird’s-eye view of bustling Shattuck Ave.

3 Entertainment Freight & Salvage Coffeehouse LIVE MUSIC (% 510-644-2020; www.thefreight.org; 2020 Addison St; c ) This legendary club has almost 50

years of history and is conveniently located in the downtown arts district. It features great traditional folk and world music and welcomes all ages, with half-price tickets for patrons under 21. Berkeley Repertory Theatre THEATER (% 510-647-2949; www.berkeleyrep.org; 2025 Addison St; tickets $40-100) This highly respected

company has produced bold versions of classical and modern plays since 1968. Most shows have half-price tickets for patrons under 30.

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88 Getting There & Around

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA The Golden State goes wild in Northern California, with coast redwoods swirled in fog, Wine Country vineyards and hidden hot springs. Befitting this dramatic meeting of land and water is an unlikely mélange of local residents: timber barons and hippie tree huggers, dreadlocked Rastafarians and biodynamic ranchers, pot farmers and political radicals of every stripe. Come for the scenery, but stay for the top-notch wine and farm-to-fork restaurants, misty hikes among the world’s tallest trees and rambling conversations that begin with ‘Hey, dude!’ and end hours later.

Wine Country

America’s premier viticulture region has earned its reputation among the world’s best. Century-old oaks and swaths of vineyards carpet rolling hillsides as far as the eye can see. Where they end, lush redwood forests follow serpentine rivers to the sea. Napa has art-filled tasting rooms by big-name architects, with prices to match. In down-to-earth Sonoma, you may drink in a tin-roofed shed and meet the vintner’s dog.

88 Getting There & Around Either Napa or Sonoma is at least an hour’s drive north of San Francisco via Hwy 101 or I-80. Getting to and around the valleys by public transportation (mainly buses, perhaps in combination with BART trains or ferries) is slow and complicated, but just possible; consult http://511.org for trip planning and schedules. Rent bicycles from Wine Country Cyclery (% 707-966-6800; www.winecountrycyclery. com; 262 W Napa St, Sonoma; bicycle rental per day $30-65; h 10am-6pm), Napa Valley Bike Tours (% 707-251-8687; www.napavalleybiketours.com; 6500 Washington St, Yountville; bicycle rental per day $45-90, tours from $109; h 8:30am-5pm), Calistoga Bike Shop (% 707-942-9687; www.calistogabikeshop.com; 1318 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga; bicycle rental from $12/39 per hour/day; h 10am-6pm) or Spoke

Napa Valley More than 200 wineries crowd 30-milelong Napa Valley along three main routes. Traffic-jammed on weekends, Highway 29 is lined with blockbuster wineries. Running parallel, Silverado Trail moves faster, passing boutique winemakers, bizarre architecture and cult-hit Cabernet Sauvignon. Heading west toward Sonoma, Carneros Highway (Hwy 121) winds by landmark vineyards specializing in sparkling wines and Pinot Noir. At the southern end of the valley, Napa – the valley’s workaday hub – lacks rusticity, but has trendy restaurants and tasting rooms downtown. Stop by the Napa Valley Welcome Center (% 855-847-6272, 707251-5895; www.visitnapavalley.com; 600 Main St; h 9am-5pm; c ) for wine-tasting passes and

winery maps. Heading north on Hwy 29, the former stagecoach stop of tiny Yountville has more Michelin-starred eateries per capita than San Francisco. Another 10 miles north, traffic snarls in charming St Helena, where there’s genteel strolling and shopping – if you can find parking. At the valley’s northern end, folksy Calistoga is home to hot-springs spas and mud-bath emporiums using volcanic ash from nearby Mt St Helena.

1 Sights & Activities Many Napa wineries require reservations. Plan to visit no more than a few tasting rooms each day.

oHess Collection

WINERY, GALLERY

(% 707-255-1144; www.hesscollection.com; 4411 Redwood Rd, Napa; museum entry free, tasting $20, tours free-$65; h 10am-5:30pm, last tasting 5pm, tours 10:30am-3pm) S Art-lovers: don’t miss

Hess Collection, the galleries of which display mixed-media and large-canvas works, including pieces by Francis Bacon and Robert Motherwell. In the cave-like tasting room, find well-known Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but also try the Viognier. Hess overlooks the valley: be prepared to drive a winding road. Reservations recommended. Bottles: $20 to $100. (NB: don’t confuse Hess Collection with Hess Select, the grocery-store brand.)

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BART (% 511, 510-465-2278; www.bart.gov) trains connect downtown Berkeley, a short walk from campus, with San Francisco ($3.90, 25 minutes). AC Transit (p143) runs local buses around Berkeley ($2.10) and to San Francisco ($4.20, 40 minutes).

Folk Cyclery (% 707-433-7171; www.spokefolk. com; 201 Center St, Healdsburg; bicycle rental per hour/day from $15/40; h 10am-6pm MonFri, to 5pm Sat & Sun).

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oFrog’s Leap

WINERY

(% 707-963-4704; www.frogsleap.com; 8815 Conn Creek Rd, Rutherford; tasting $20, incl tour $25; h 10am-4pm by appointment only; c# ) S Me-

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andering paths wind through magical gardens and fruit-bearing orchards surrounding an 1884 barn and farmstead with cats and chickens. The vibe is casual and down-toearth, with a major emphasis on fun. Sauvignon Blanc is its best-known wine, but the Merlot merits attention. There’s also a dry, restrained Cabernet, atypical of Napa. All wines are organic. Appointments required. Bottles cost $22 to $42.

Castello di Amorosa WINERY, CASTLE (% 707-967-6272; www.castellodiamorosa.com; 4045 Hwy 29, Calistoga; admission & tasting $20-45, incl guided tour $35-75; h 9:30am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb) It took 14 years to

8pm) California’s longest continually op-

erating spa, and original Calistoga resort, has concrete mud tubs and mines its own ash. Treatments include use of the huge, hot-spring-fed pool. Great cucumber body lotion. Culinary Institute of America at Greystone COOKING COURSE (% 707-967-2320; www.ciachef.edu/california; 2555 Main St; mains $25-29, cooking demonstration $20; h cooking demonstrations 1:30pm Sat & Sun) Inside an 1889 stone chateau, now a

cooking school, there’s a gadget- and cookbook-filled culinary shop; fine restaurant; weekend cooking demonstrations; and wine-tasting classes by luminaries including Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible.

4 Sleeping

build this perfectly replicated, 13th-century Italian castle, complete with moat, handcut stone walls, ceiling frescoes by Italian artisans, Roman-style cross-vault brick catacombs, and a torture chamber with period equipment. You can taste without an appointment, but this is one tour worth taking. Oh, the wine? Some respectable Italian varietals, including a velvety Tuscan blend, and a Merlot blend that goes great with pizza. Bottles are $29 to $95.

The valley’s best-value deals are midweek at Napa’s less-than-exciting motels.

Casa Nuestra WINERY (% 707-963-5783, 866-844-9463; www. casanuestra.com; 3451 Silverado Trail N, St Helena; tasting $10; h 10am-4:30pm by appointment only; c ) S A peace flag and portrait of Elvis

El Bonita MOTEL $$ (% 707-963-3216; www.elbonita.com; 195 Main St, St Helena; r $169-239; a i W s# ) Book in ad-

greet you at this old-school, mom-and-pop winery, which produces unusual blends and interesting varietals (including good Chenin Blanc). Vineyards are all-organic; the sun provides power. Picnic free (call ahead and buy a bottle) beneath weeping willows shading happy goats. Bottles are $20 to $60. di Rosa Art + Nature Preserve GALLERY, GARDENS (% 707-226-5991; www.dirosaart.org; 5200 Hwy 121, Napa; admission $5, tours $12-15; h 10am-4pm Wed-Sun) West of downtown, scrap-metal

Maison Fleurie INN $$ (% 707-944-2056; www.maisonfleurienapa.com; 6529 Yount St, Yountville; r $170-395; ai W s )

Rooms at this ivy-covered country inn are in a century-old home and carriage house, decorated in French-provincial style. Big breakfasts (included), afternoon wine and hors d’oeuvres, hot tub.

vance to secure this sought-after motel, with up-to-date rooms (quietest are in back), attractive grounds, hot tub and sauna.

Indian Springs Resort RESORT $$ (% 707-942-4913; www.indianspringscalistoga. com; 1712 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga; r/cottages from $239/359; a W s c ) The definitive old-

school Calistoga resort, Indian Springs has cottages facing a central lawn with palm trees, shuffleboard, bocce, hammocks and Weber grills – not unlike a vintage Florida resort. Some sleep six. There are also topend, motel-style lodge rooms (adults only). Huge hot-springs-fed swimming pool.

sheep graze Carneros vineyards at 217-acre di Rosa Preserve, a stunning collection of Northern California art, displayed indoors in galleries and outdoors in sculpture gardens. Reservations recommended for tours.

5 Eating

Indian Springs Spa SPA (% 707-942-4913; www.indianspringscalistoga. com; 1712 Lincoln Ave; h by appointment 9am-

oOxbow Public Market

Many wine-country restaurants keep shorter hours in winter; book ahead for lunch and dinner. MARKET $

(% 707-226-6529; http://oxbowpublicmarket.com; 610 & 644 1st St, Napa; items from $3; h 9am-7pm

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restaurants, chic shops and a visitor center

the Northern California food scene. Standouts: Hog Island Oyster Co; comfort cooking at celeb-chef Todd Humphries’ Kitchen Door; Venezuelan arepa (corn-cake sandwiches) at Pica Pica; great Cal-Mexican tacos at C Casa; Italian pastries at Ca’ Momi; espresso from Ritual Coffee; and Three Twins certified-organic ice cream.

Bartholomew Park Winery WINERY (% 707-939-3026; www.bartpark.com; 1000 Vineyard Lane, Sonoma; tasting $10-30; h 11am-4:30pm)

S Graze this gourmet market and plug into

French pastries and strong coffee. There’s always a line and rarely a seat: get it to go. Gott’s Roadside AMERICAN $$ (% 707-963-3486; http://gotts.com; 933 Main St, St Helena; mains $8-16; h 10am-10pm May-Sep, 8am-9pm Oct-Apr; c ) S Wiggle your toes in

the grass and feast on quality burgers – of beef or ahi tuna – plus Cobb salads and fish tacos at this classic roadside drive-in, whose original name, ‘Taylor’s Auto Refresher,’ remains on the sign. Avoid weekend waits by phoning ahead or ordering online. There’s another at Oxbow Public Market.

oFrench Laundry

CALIFORNIAN $$$

(% 707-944-2380; www.frenchlaundry.com; 6640 Washington St, Yountville; prix-fixe dinner $295; h seatings 11am-1pm Fri-Sun, 5:30-9:15pm daily)

S A great bike-to winery, Bartholomew Park

occupies a 400-acre nature preserve, with oak-shaded picnicking and valley-view hiking. The vineyards were originally cultivated in 1857 and now yield certified-organic, citrusy Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon softer in style than Napa and lush Zinfandel. Bottles are $21 to $48. Gundlach-Bundschu Winery WINERY (% 707-939-3015; www.gunbun.com; 2000 Denmark St, Sonoma; tasting $10-25, incl tour $3050; h 11am-4:30pm, to 5:30pm Jun–mid-Oct) S

California’s oldest family-run winery looks like a castle, but has a down-to-earth vibe. Founded in 1858 by a Bavarian immigrant, its signatures are Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir, but ‘Gun-Bun’ was the first American winery to produce 100% Merlot. Down a winding lane, it’s a terrific bike-to winery, with picnicking, hiking and a lake. Tour the 1800-barrel cave by reservation only. Bottles are $21 to $90.

Benziger WINERY (% 707-935-3000, 888-490-2739; www.benziger. The pinnacle of California dining, Thom- com; 1883 London Ranch Rd, Glen Ellen; tasting as Keller’s French Laundry is epic, a high- $15-40, tours $25-50; h 10am-5pm, tram tours wattage culinary experience on par with 11am-3:30pm; c # ) S If you’re new to wine,

the world’s best. Book two months ahead at 10am sharp, or log onto OpenTable.com precisely at midnight. Avoid tables before 7pm; first-service seating moves a touch quickly. This is the meal you can brag about the rest of your life.

Sonoma Valley More laid-back and less commercial than Napa, Sonoma Valley shelters more than 40 wineries off Hwy 12 – and unlike in Napa, most don’t require tasting appointments. Note there are actually three Sonomas: the town, the valley and the county.

1 Sights & Activities Downtown Sonoma was once the capital of the short-lived Bear Flag Republic. Today Sonoma Plaza – the state’s largest town square – is bordered by historic hotels, busy

make Benziger your first stop for Sonoma’s best crash course in winemaking. The worthwhile, nonreservable tour includes an open-air tram ride (weather permitting) through biodynamic vineyards, and a five-wine tasting. Great picnicking, plus a playground, make it tops for families. The large-production wine is OK (head for the reserves); the tour’s the thing. Bottles are $15 to $80. Jack London State Historic Park STATE PARK (% 707-938-5216; www.jacklondonpark.com; 2400 London Ranch Rd, Glen Ellen; per car $10, cottage entry adult/child $4/2; h park 9:30am-5pm, museum 10am-5pm, cottage noon-4pm) Napa has

Robert Louis Stevenson, but Sonoma’s got Jack London. This 1400-acre park frames that author’s last years; don’t miss the excellent on-site museum. Miles of hiking trails (some open to mountain bikes) weave through oak-dotted woodlands, between

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Bouchon Bakery BAKERY $ (% 707-944-2253; www.thomaskeller.com; 6528 Washington St, Yountville; items from $3; h 7am7pm) Bouchon makes as-good-as-in-Paris

(% 866-966-1090, 707-996-1090; www.sonomavalley.com; 453 1st St E; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am5pm Sun).

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600ft and 2300ft elevations; an easy 2-mile loop meanders to a lake, great for picnicking. Watch for poison oak.

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Cline Cellars WINERY (% 707-940-4030; www.clinecellars.com; 24737 Arnold Dr, Sonoma; tasting free-$20; h tasting room 10am-6pm, museum 10am-4pm) S Balmy days

are for pond-side picnics, and rainy ones for fireside tastings of old-vine Zinfandel and Mouvedre inside an 1850s farmhouse. Stroll out back to the California Mission Museum, housing 1930s miniature replicas of California’s original 21 Spanish Colonial missions.

Kunde WINERY (% 707-833-5501; www.kunde.com; 9825 Hwy 12, Kenwood; tasting $10-25, incl tour $30-40; h 10:30am-5pm) S It’s worth making reser-

vations in advance for sustainable vineyard tours, mountain-top tastings and monthly guided hikes.

4 Sleeping At the valley’s north end, Santa Rosa has budget-saving motels and hotels. Sonoma Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (% 707-996-2996; www.sonomahotel.com; 110 W Spain St; r from $160; aW ) Long on charm,

this good-value, vintage-1880s hotel, decorated with country-style willow-wood furnishings, sits right on the plaza. Double- pane glass blocks the noise, but there’s no elevator or parking lot.

oBeltane Ranch

B&B $$

(% 707-833-4233; www.beltaneranch.com; 11775 Hwy 12, Glen Ellen; d $205-295; W ) S Surround-

ed by horse pastures and vineyards, Beltane is a throwback to 19th-century Sonoma. The cheerful, lemon-yellow, 1890s ranch house has double porches, lined with swinging chairs and white wicker. Though it’s technically a B&B, each country-Americana-style room has a private entrance – nobody will make you pet the cat. No phones or TVs mean zero distraction from pastoral bliss.

5 Eating & Drinking Fremont Diner AMERICAN, SOUTHERN $$ (% 707-938-7370; www.thefremontdiner.com; 2698 Fremont Dr, Sonoma; mains $9-22; h 8am-3pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sun; c ) S Lines snake

out the door peak times at this farm-to-table roadside diner. We prefer the indoor tables, but will happily accept a picnic table in the

big outdoor tent to feast on ricotta pancakes with real maple syrup, chicken and waffles, oyster po’boys, finger-licking barbecue and skillet-baked cornbread. Arrive early, or late, to beat queues. fig cafe & winebar FRENCH, CALIFORNIAN $$ (% 707-938-2130; www.thefigcafe.com; 13690 Arnold Dr, Glen Ellen; mains $14-26, 3-course prix-fixe dinner $36; h brunch 10am-2:30pm Sat & Sun, dinner 5-9pm Sun-Thu, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat) The fig’s

earthy California-Provençal comfort food includes flash-fried calamari with spicy-lemon aioli, duck confit and moules-frites (mussels and french fries). Good wine prices and weekend brunch give reason to return.

Hopmonk Tavern PUB FOOD $$ (% 707-935-9100; www.hopmonk.com; 691 Broadway, Sonoma; mains $11-23; h 11:30am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat) This happening

gastropub and beer garden takes its brews seriously, with more than a dozen of its own and guest beers on tap, served in type- appropriate glassware. Live music Friday through Sunday.

oCafe La Haye

CALIFORNIAN $$$

(% 707-935-5994; www.cafelahaye.com; 140 E Napa St, Sonoma; mains $18-30; h 5:30-9pm TueSat; # ) S One of Sonoma’s top tables for

earthy New American cooking, La Haye only uses produce sourced from within 60 miles. Its dining room gets packed cheek-by-jowl and service can border on perfunctory, but the clean simplicity and flavor-packed cooking make it many foodies’ first choice. Reserve well ahead.

Russian River Valley Redwoods tower over small wineries in the Russian River Valley, about 75 miles northwest of San Francisco (via Hwys 101 and 116), in western Sonoma County. Famous for its apple orchards and farmtour trails, Sebastopol has a new-age spiritual aura, with downtown bookshops, art galleries and boutiques, and antiques stores further south. Wander around the Barlow (% 707-824-5600; thebarlow.net; 6770 McKinley St; h 8:30am-9:30pm; c ), an indoor

market of food producers, winemakers, coffee roasters, spirit distillers and indie chefs. Or go straight to the source by driving or cycling local farm trails (www.farmtrails.org). Guerneville is the main river beach town, buzzing with Harleys and gay-

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friendly honky-tonks. Explore old-growth redwoods at Armstrong Redwoods State

tours in advance. Other excellent wineries, many known for award-winning Pinot Noir, scatter along rural Westside Road, which follows the river toward Healdsburg. Guerneville’s visitor center (% 877-644-9001,

707-869-9000; www.russianriver.com; 16209 1st St, Guerneville; h 10am-4:45pm Mon-Sat, plus 10am3pm Sun May-Oct) offers winery maps and

lodging info. It’s worth the wait for a table at California-smart Boon Eat + Drink (% 707-

869-0780; http://eatatboon.com; 16248 Main St; lunch mains $14-18, dinner $15-26; h lunch 11am3pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, brunch 10am-3pm Sat & Sun, dinner 5-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat), which also manages boutique Boon Hotel + Spa (% 707-869-2721; www.boonhotels.com; 14711 Armstrong Woods Rd; r $165-275; W s # )

S, a minimalist oasis with a saline pool.

The aptly named Bohemian Hwy winds 10 miles south of the river to tiny Occidental, where Howard Station Cafe

(% 707-874-2838; www.howardstationcafe.com; 3611 Bohemian Hwy; mains $6-13; h 7am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; c # ) serves hearty

breakfasts like blueberry cornmeal pancakes (cash only), and Barley & Hops Tav-

ern (% 707-874-9037; www.barleynhops.com; 3688 Bohemian Hwy; mains $10-15; h 4-9:30pm Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri & Sat, 11am-9:30pm Sun)

pours craft beers. It’s another few miles south to Freestone, home of the phenomenal bakery Wild Flour Bread (www.wildflour-

bread.com; 140 Bohemian Hwy, Freestone; items from $3; h 8:30am-6:30pm Fri-Mon) and invigorating cedar-enzyme baths at Osmosis (% 707-823-8231; www.osmosis.com; 209 Bohemian Hwy, Freestone; h by appointment) spa.

Healdsburg & Around More than 100 wineries dot the valleys within a 20-mile radius of Healdsburg, where upscale eateries, wine-tasting rooms and stylish hotels surround a leafy plaza. For tasting passes and maps, drop by the visitor center (% 07-433-6935; www.healdsburg.com; 217 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg; h 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun). Dine with California-chic locavores at the Shed (% 707-431-7433; healdsburgshed.com; 25 North St; dishes $3-15; h 8am7pm Wed-Mon; c ) S gourmet marketplace

and culinary center, or grab lunch near the vineyards at country-style Dry Creek General Store (% 707-433-4171; www.drycreekgeneralstore1881.com; 3495 Dry Creek Rd; sandwiches $8-10; h 6:30am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 6:30pm Fri & Sat, 7am-6pm Sun). Afterward bed down at old-fashioned L&M Motel (% 707-433-6528; www.landmmotel.com; 70 Healdsburg Ave; r $150180; a W s c # ) or romantic Healdsburg Modern Cottages (% 707-395-4684; www. healdsburgcottages.com; 425 Foss St; d $250-500; a W s ).

Picture-perfect farmstead wineries await discovery in Dry Creek Valley, west of Hwy 101 and Healdsburg. Pedal a bicycle out to taste citrusy Sauvignon Blanc and peppery Zinfandel at biodynamic Preston Vineyards

(www.prestonvineyards.com; 9282 W Dry Creek Rd; tasting $10; h 11am-4:30pm; c ) S and Quivira Vineyards (% 707-431-8333; www.quivira wine.com; 4900 W Dry Creek Rd; tasting $15, incl tour $25; h 11am-5pm; c# ) S. Motor toward the Russian River and Porter Creek Vineyards (% 707-433-6321; www.portercreekvine yards.com; 8735 Westside Rd, Healdsburg; tasting $10; h 10:30am-4:30pm; # ) S for forest-floor

Pinot Noir and fruity Viognier poured at a bar made from a bowling-alley lane. Northwest of Healdsburg off Hwy 101, follow Hwy 128 through the Anderson Valley, known for its fruit orchards and family- owned wineries like Navarro (% 707-895-

3686; www.navarrowine.com; 5601 Hwy 128, Philo; h 9am-6pm, to 5pm Nov-Mar) F and Husch (www.huschvineyards.com; 4400 Hwy 128, Philo; h 10am-6pm, to 5pm Nov-Mar) F. Outside Boonville, which has roadside cafes, bak-

eries and delis, brake for disc-golf and beer at solar-powered Anderson Valley Brewing

Company (% 707-895-2337; www.avbc.com; 17700 Hwy 253, Boonville; tasting from $2, tours & disc-golf course free; h tasting room 11am-6pm Sat-Thu, to 7pm Fri, tours 1:30pm & 3pm daily) S.

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Reserve (% info 707-869-2015, visitor center 707869-2958; www.parks.ca.gov; 17000 Armstrong Woods Rd; per car $8; h 8am-sunset; c ), next to no-reservations Bullfrog Pond Campground (% 707-869-2015; www.stewardscr.org; sites reserved/nonreserved $35/25; c # ). Paddle downriver with Burke’s Canoe Trips (% 707-887-1222; www.burkescanoetrips.com; 8600 River Rd, Forestville; canoe/kayak rental incl shuttle $65/45, cash only; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun). Head southeast to sip sparkling wines at hilltop Iron Horse Vineyards (% 707-887-1507; www.ironhorsevineyards. com; 9786 Ross Station Rd, Sebastopol; tasting $20, incl tour $25-50; h 10am-4:30pm); reserve

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North Coast

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Metropolitan San Francisco, only a few hours behind in the rearview mirror, feels eons away from the frothing, frigid crash of Pacific tide and two-stoplight towns on this jagged edge of the continent. Forested valleys brush up against moody ocean waves and rural farms here on California’s weirdest coast, home to hippies, hoppy microbrews, marijuana farms and, most famously, the tallest trees on earth. The winding coastal drive gets more rewarding with every gorgeous, white-knuckled mile of narrow highway.

Coastal Highway 1 to Mendocino Often winding precariously atop ocean cliffs, this serpentine slice of Hwy 1 passes salty fishing harbors and hidden beaches. Use roadside pullouts to scan the Pacific horizon for migrating whales or to amble coves bounded by startling rock formations and relentlessly pounded by the surf. The 110-mile stretch from Bodega Bay to Fort Bragg takes at least three hours of nonstop driving; at night or in the fog, it takes steely nerves and much, much longer. Bodega Bay, the first pearl in a string of sleepy fishing villages, was the setting for Hitchcock’s terrifying 1963 psycho- horror flick The Birds. Today the skies are free from bloodthirsty gulls, but you’d best keep an eye on that picnic basket as you explore the arched rocks, blustery coves and wildflower-covered bluffs of Sonoma Coast State Park (www.parks.ca.gov; per car $8), with beaches rolling beyond Jenner, 10 miles north. Bodega Bay Sportfishing Center (% 707-875-3495; www.bodegacharters.com; 1410 Bay Flat Rd) runs winter whale-watching trips

(adult/child $50/35). Landlubbers hike Bodega Head or saddle up at Chanslor Riding Stables (% 707-875-2721, 707-875-3333; www. horsenaroundtrailrides.com; 2660 N Hwy 1; rides from $40).

Where the wide, lazy Russian River meets the Pacific, there isn’t much to Jenner, a cluster of shops and restaurants dotting coastal hills. Informative volunteers protect the resident colony of harbor seals at the river’s mouth during pupping season, between March and August. Water Treks Ecotours (% 707-865-2249; http://watertreks.com; kayak rental from $30; h 10am-3pm Mon-Thu, 9am-5pm

Fri-Sun) rents kayaks on Hwy 1; reservations

recommended. Twelve miles north of Jenner, the salt-weathered structures of Fort Ross State Historic Park (% 707-847-3437; www. fortross.org; 19005 Hwy 1; per car $8; h 10am4:30pm Fri-Mon) preserve an 1812 trading post

and Russian Orthodox church. It’s a quiet place, but the history is riveting: this was once the southernmost reach of Tsarist Russia’s North American trading expeditions. The small, wood-scented museum offers historical exhibits and respite from the windswept cliffs. Several miles further north, Salt Point State Park (% 707-847-3221; www.parks.ca.gov; per car $8; h park sunrise-sunset, visitor center 10am-3pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct) abounds with hiking trails and tide pools and has two campgrounds (% 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica. com; tent & RV sites $25-35; c ). At neighboring Kruse Rhododendron State Natural Reserve, pink blooms spot the misty green

woods between April and June. Cows graze the fields on the bluffs heading north to Sea Ranch (www.tsra.org), where public-access hiking trails lead downhill from roadside parking lots (per car $7) to pocket beaches. Two miles north of Point Arena town, detour to wind-battered Point Arena Lighthouse (% 877-725-4448, 707-882-2809; www. pointarenalighthouse.com; 45500 Lighthouse Rd; adult/child $7.50/1; h 10am-3:30pm, to 4:30pm late May-early Sep), built in 1908. Ascend 145

steps to inspect the flashing Fresnel lens and get jaw-dropping coastal views. Eight miles north of the Little River crossing at Hwy 128 is Van Damme State Park (% 707-937-

5804; www.parks.ca.gov; 8001 N Hwy 1, Little River; per car $8; h 8am-9pm), where the popular 5-mile round-trip Fern Canyon Trail pass-

es through a lush river canyon with young redwoods, continuing another mile each way to a pygmy forest. The park’s camp-

ground (% 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica. com; tent & RV sites $25-35; W c ) has coin-op

hot showers. In Mendocino, a historical village perched on a gorgeous headland, baby boomers stroll around New England saltbox and water-tower B&Bs, quaint shops and art galleries. Wilder paths pass berry brambles, wildflowers and cypress trees standing guard over rocky cliffs and raging surf at Mendocino Headlands State Park (www.parks.ca.gov) F. The Ford House Museum & Visitor Center (% 707-537-5397;

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perch.

4 Sleeping Every other building in Mendocino seems to be a pricey B&B; book ahead. Fort Bragg, just 10 miles north, has cheaper motels. Gualala Point Regional Park CAMPGROUND $ (% 707-567-2267; http://parks.sonomacounty. ca.gov; 42401 Hwy 1, Gualala; tent & RV sites $35; c ) Shaded by a stand of redwoods and

$185-305; W c # ) S The elegantly reno-

vated 1930s fishing cabins offer a simple, stylish seaside escape with a vanguard commitment to sustainability. The harmonious environment is the result of pitch-perfect details: linens are line-dried over lavender, guests browse the organic vegetable garden to harvest their own dinner and chickens cluck around the grounds laying the next morning’s breakfast. It often requires twonight stays.

5 Eating & Drinking Even tiny coastal towns usually have a bakery, deli, natural-foods market and a couple of roadside cafes and restaurants.

oFranny’s Cup & Saucer

BAKERY $

(www.frannyscupandsaucer.com; 213 Main St, Point Arena; items from $2; h 8am-4pm Wed-Sat) The

fragrant California bay laurel trees, a short trail connects this creekside campground to the windswept beach. The quality of sites, including several secluded hike-in spots, makes it the best drive-in camping on this part of the coast.

cutest patisserie on this stretch of coast is run by Franny and her mother, Barbara (a veteran of Chez Panisse). The fresh berry tarts and creative housemade chocolates seem too beautiful to eat, until you take the first bite and immediately want to order another. Several times a year they pull out all the stops for a Sunday garden brunch ($25).

Andiron CABIN $$ (% 707-937-1543; http://theandiron.com; 6051 N Hwy 1, Little River; most r $109-199; W c # ) S

Spud Point Crab Company SEAFOOD $ (www.spudpointcrab.com; 1910 Westshore Rd, Bodega Bay; dishes $4-12; h 9am-5pm; c ) In the

Styled with hip vintage decor, this cluster of 1950s roadside cottages is a refreshingly playful option amid the cabbage-rose and lace aesthetic of Mendocino. Each cabin houses two rooms with complementing themes: ‘Read’ has old books, comfy vintage chairs and hip retro eyeglasses, while the adjoining ‘Write’ features a huge chalkboard and a ribbon typewriter. Alegria B&B $$$ (% 707-937-5150; www.oceanfrontmagic.com; 44781 Main St, Mendocino; r $239-299; W ) A

perfect romantic hideaway, beds have views over the coast, decks have ocean view and all rooms have wood-burning fireplaces; outside a gorgeous path leads to a big, amber- grey beach. Ever-so-friendly innkeepers whip up amazing breakfasts served in the sea-view dining area. Less expensive rooms are available across the street at bright and simple Raku House (www.rakuhouse.com; r $159-189). Mar Vista Cottages CABIN $$$ (% 707-884-3522, 877-855-3522; www.marvistamendocino.com; 35101 S Hwy 1, Gualala; cottages

classic tradition of dockside crab shacks, Spud Point serves salty-sweet crab cocktails and real clam chowder. Eat at picnic tables overlooking the marina. Take Bay Flat Rd to get here.

Café Aquatica CAFE $ (% 707-865-2251; 10439 Hwy 1, Jenner; items $310; h 8am-5pm; W ) This is the kind of North

Coast coffee shop you’ve been dreaming of: fresh pastries, fog-lifting organic coffee and chatty locals. The expansive view of the Russian River from the patio and gypsy sea-hut decor make it hard to leave.

Piaci Pub & Pizzeria ITALIAN $$ (www.piacipizza.com; 120 W Redwood Ave, Fort Bragg; mains $8-18; h 11am-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 4-9:30pm Sun) Fort Bragg’s

must-visit pizzeria is known for its sophisticated wood-fired, brick-oven pies as much as for its long list of microbrews. Try the ‘Gustoso’ – with chèvre, pesto and seasonal pears – all carefully orchestrated on a thin crust. It’s tiny, loud and fun, with much more of a bar atmosphere than a restaurant. Expect to wait at peak times.

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http://mendoparks.org; 45035 Main St; h 11am4pm) is nearby. Just south of town, paddle your way up the Big River with Catch a Canoe & Bicycles, Too! (% 707-937-0273; www. catchacanoe.com; Stanford Inn by the Sea, 44850 Comptche-Ukiah Rd; kayak & canoe rental adult/ child from $28/14; h 9am-5pm). North of town, 1909 Point Cabrillo Light Station (% 707937-6123; www.pointcabrillo.org; 45300 Lighthouse Rd; h park sunrise-sunset, lighthouse 11am-4pm) F is a perfect winter whale-watching

154 North Coast Brewing Company BREWERY $$ (% 707-964-2739; www.northcoastbrewing.com; 455 N Main St, Fort Bragg; mains $16-25; h restaurant 4-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, bar from 2pm daily) Though thick, rare slabs of steak

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and a list of specials demonstrate that this brewery takes the food as seriously as the bevvies, it’s burgers and garlic fries that soak up the fantastic selection of handcrafted brews. A great stop for serious beer-lovers. Café Beaujolais CALIFORNIAN $$$ (% 707-937-5614; www.cafebeaujolais.com; 961 Ukiah St, Mendocino; mains lunch $10-18, dinner $23-38; h 11:30am-2:30pm Wed-Sun, dinner from 5:30pm daily) S Mendocino’s iconic, beloved

country-Cal–French restaurant occupies an 1893 house restyled into a monochromatic urban-chic dining room, perfect for holding hands by candlelight. The refined, inspired cooking draws diners from San Francisco, who make this the centerpiece of their trip. The locally sourced menu changes with the seasons, but the Petaluma duck breast served with crispy skin is a gourmand’s delight.

88 Getting There & Around Mendocino Transit Authority (MTA; % 707462-1422; http://mendocinotransit.org; most one-way fares $1.50-6) bus 95 travels daily between Fort Bragg and Santa Rosa ($23, 2½ hours), while MTA bus 65 travels once or twice daily between Santa Rosa and Point Arena ($8.25, three hours) via Hwy 1. From Santa Rosa, catch Golden Gate Transit (p143) bus 101 to San Francisco ($12.50, 2½ hours, every 30 to 60 minutes). On weekdays, MTA bus 60 shuttles four times between Fort Bragg and Mendocino ($1.50, one hour), with two onward connections daily except Sunday to Point Arena ($4.50, 2¼ hours).

Along Highway 101 to Avenue of the Giants To get into the most remote and wild parts of the North Coast behind the ‘Redwood Curtain’ on the quick, eschew winding Hwy 1 for inland Hwy 101, which occasionally pauses under the traffic lights of small towns. Diversions along the way include bountiful redwood forests past Leggett and the abandoned wilds of the Lost Coast. Although Ukiah is mostly a place to gas up or grab a bite downtown, it’s worth a 30-minute meandering mountain drive west to soak at clothing-optional Orr Hot Springs (% 707-462-6277; www.orrhotsprings.

org; 13201 Orr Springs Rd; day-use fee adult/child $30/20; h 10am-10pm by appointment only). Just north of tiny Leggett on Hwy 101, take a dip in the Eel River at Standish- Hickey State Recreation Area (% 707-9256482; www.parks.ca.gov; 69350 Hwy 101; per car $8; c ), where hiking trails traipse through

virgin and second-growth redwoods. South of Garberville on Hwy 101, Richardson

Grove State Park (% 707-247-3318; www.parks. ca.gov; 1600 Hwy 101, Garberville; per car $8) also

protects old-growth redwood forest beside the river. Both parks have developed camp-

grounds (% 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica. com; tent & RV sites $35-45; c ). The Lost Coast tempts hikers with the

most rugged coastal backpacking in California. It became ‘lost’ when the state’s highway bypassed the mountains of the King Range, which rises over 4000ft within a few miles of the ocean. From Garberville, it’s 23 steep, twisting miles along a paved road to Shelter Cove, the main supply point but little more than a seaside subdivision with a general store, cafes and none-too-cheap ocean-view lodgings. Along Hwy 101, 82-sq-mile Humboldt Redwoods State Park (% 707-946-2409; www.parks.ca.gov) F protects some of Cal-

ifornia’s oldest redwoods, including more than half of the world’s tallest 100 trees. Magnificent groves rival those in Redwood National Park, a long drive further north. If you don’t have time to hike, at least drive the awe-inspiring Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile, two-lane road parallel to Hwy 101. Book ahead for campsites (% 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $20-35; c ). Get hiking info and maps at the visitor center (% 707-946-2263; www.humboldt redwoods.org; h 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar).

4 Sleeping & Eating Campgrounds and RV parks are plentiful along Hwy 101, where every one-horse town guarantees at least a natural-foods store with a deli, a drive-thru espresso stand, a hippie-owned cafe and a handful of motels. Woodsy cabin resorts and aging motels along Avenue of the Giants are mediocre. Inn of the Lost Coast INN $$ (% 707-986-7521, 888-570-9676; www.innofthelostcoast.com; 205 Wave Dr, Shelter Cove; r $180-300; W c # ) Shelter Cove’s most family-friendly

hotel has clean rooms, some with basic cooking facilities, breathtaking ocean views

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and fireplaces. Downstairs there’s a serviceable takeout pizza place and coffee shop as well as ping-pong and a hot tub. Benbow Inn HISTORIC HOTEL $$$ (% 707-923-2124; www.benbowinn.com; 445 Lake Benbow Dr, Garberville; d $150-395; a W s # )

Saucy PIZZA $$ (% 707-462-7007; http://saucyukiah.com; 108 W Standley St, Ukiah; mains $11-19; h 11:30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri, noon-10pm Sat) Yes there

are arty pizzas with toppings like Calabrian love sausage (really), fennel pollen and almond basil pesto but there are also amazing soups, salads, pastas and starters – Nana’s meatballs are to die for and the ‘kicking’ minestrone lives up to its name. The smalltown ambience is slightly chic but boistrous at the same time. Woodrose Café BREAKFAST, AMERICAN $$ (www.woodrosecafe.com; 911 Redwood Dr, Garberville; meals $10-18; h 8am-2pm; v c ) Garber-

ville’s beloved cafe serves organic omelets, veggie scrambles and buckwheat pancakes with real maple syrup in a cozy room. Lunch brings crunchy salads, sandwiches with all-natural meats and good burritos. Plenty of gluten-free options.

88 Getting There & Around Daily Greyhound buses connect San Francisco with Ukiah ($39, three hours) and Garberville ($53, 5½ hours). Redwood Transit System (% 707-443-0826; www.redwoodtransit.org) operates infrequent weekday buses between Garberville and Eureka ($5.50, 1¾ hours), making a few stops along the Avenue of the Giants.

Highwayy 101 from Eureka to Crescent City Past the strip malls sprawling around its edges, the heart of Eureka is Old Town, abounding with fine Victorians buildings, antique shops and restaurants. Cruise the harbor aboard the blue-and-white 1910 Madaket (% 707-445-1910; www.humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com; narrated cruise adult/child $18/10), departing from the foot of C St;

sunset cocktail cruises serve from the state’s

(% 707-442-3738; www.eurekachamber.com; 2112 Broadway; h 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri; i W ) is on

Hwy 101, south of downtown. On the north side of Humboldt Bay, Arcata is a patchouli-dipped hippie haven of radical politics. Biodiesel-fueled trucks drive in for the weekly farmers market (www. humfarm.org; h 9am-2pm Sat Apr-Nov) on the central plaza, surrounded by art galleries, shops, cafes and bars. Make reservations to soak at Finnish Country Sauna & Tubs (% 707-822-2228; http://cafemokkaarcata.com; 495 J St; 30min per adult/child $9.75/2; h noon11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat). Northeast of

downtown stands eco-conscious, socially responsible Humboldt State University (HSU; www.humboldt.edu; 1 Harpst St). Sixteen miles north of Arcata, Trinidad sits on a bluff overlooking a breathtakingly beautiful fishing harbor. Stroll sandy beaches or take short hikes around Trinidad Head after meeting tide-pool critters at the HSU Telonicher Marine Laboratory (% 707-8263671; www.humboldt.edu/marinelab; 570 Ewing St; self-guided tour $1; h 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am5pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–mid-May; c ). Heading

north of town, Patrick’s Point Dr is dotted with forested campgrounds, cabins and lodges. Patrick’s Point State Park (% 707-677-

3570; www.parks.ca.gov; 4150 Patrick’s Point Dr; per car $8) has stunning rocky headlands, beach-

combing, an authentic reproduction of a Yurok village and a campground (% reserva-

tions 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $35-45) with coin-op hot showers.

Heading north, Hwy 101 passes Redwood National Park’s Thomas H Kuchel Visitor Center (% 707-464-6101; www.nps.gov/redw; Hwy 101; h 9am-6pm Jun-Aug, to 5pm Sep-Oct & Mar-May, to 4pm Nov-Feb). Together, the nation-

al park and three state parks – Prairie Creek, Del Norte and Jedediah Smith – are a World Heritage site containing more than 40% of the world’s remaining old-growth redwood forests. The national park is free, while state parks have an $8 day-use parking fee and developed campgrounds (% reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $35).

This patchwork of state and federally managed land stretches all the way north to the Oregon border, interspersed with several towns. Furthest south, you’ll encounter

Redwood National Park (www.nps.gov/redw; c ) F, where a 1-mile nature trail winds

through Lady Bird Johnson Grove.

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This inn is a monument to 1920s rustic elegance; the Redwood Empire’s first luxury resort is a National Historic Landmark. Hollywood’s elite once frolicked in the Tudor-style resort’s lobby, where you can play chess by the crackling fire, and enjoy complimentary afternoon tea and scones.

smallest licensed bar. The visitor center

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Six miles north of Orick, the 10-mile Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway runs parallel to Hwy 101 through Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. Roosevelt elk graze in the meadow outside the visitor center Ca li fo rnia N S lorth e e pin eCrn goast C alifornia

(% 707-488-2039; www.parks.ca.gov; h 9am5pm May-Sep, off-season hours vary; c ), where

sunlight-dappled hiking trails begin. Three miles back south, mostly unpaved Davison Rd heads northwest to Gold Bluffs Beach, dead-ending at the trailhead for unbelievably lush Fern Canyon. North of tiny Klamath, Hwy 101 passes the Trees of Mystery (% 707-482-2251; www.treesofmystery.net; 15500 Hwy 101, Klamath; adult/child $15/8; h 8:30am-6:30pm Jun-Aug, 9:30am-4:30pm Sep-May; c ), a kitschy roadside attraction. Next up, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park preserves virgin red-

wood groves and unspoiled coastline. The 4.5-mile round-trip Damnation Creek Trail careens over 1000ft downhill past redwoods to a hidden rocky beach, best visited at low tide. Find the trailhead at a parking turn-out near mile-marker 16 on Hwy 101. Backed by a fishing harbor and bay, Crescent City is drab because, after more than half the town was destroyed by a tidal wave in 1964, it was rebuilt with utilitarian architecture. When the tide’s out, you can walk across to the 1856 Battery Point Lighthouse (% 707-467-3089; www.delnortehistory.org; adult/child $3/1; h 10am-4pm daily Apr-Sep, Sat & Sun only Oct-Mar) from the south end of A St. Beyond Crescent City, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is the northernmost

park in the system. The redwood stands here are so dense that there are few trails, but a couple of easy hikes start near riverside swimming holes along Hwy 199 and rough, unpaved Howland Hill Rd, a 10-mile scenic drive. The Redwood National & State Parks’ Crescent City Information Center (% 707465-7335; www.nps.gov/redw; 1111 2nd St; h 9am5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) has maps and info.

4 Sleeping A mixed bag of budget and midrange motels are scattered along Hwy 101, including in Eureka, Arcata and Crescent City. Curly Redwood Lodge MOTEL $ (% 707-464-2137; www.curlyredwoodlodge.com; 701 Hwy 101 S, Crescent City; r $69-100; a W )

The Redwood Lodge is a marvel: it’s entirely built and paneled from a single curly redwood tree which measured over 18ft thick in diameter. Progressively restored and pol-

ished into a gem of mid-20th-century kitsch, the inn is a delight for retro junkies. Rooms are clean, large and comfortable (request one away from the road). For truly modern accommodations, look elsewhere.

oHistoric Requa Inn

HISTORIC HOTEL $$

(% 707-482-1425; www.requainn.com; 451 Requa Rd, Klamath; r $119-199; W ) S A woodsy coun-

try lodge on bluffs overlooking the mouth of the Klamath, the creaky and bright 1914 Requa Inn is a North Coast favorite and – even better – it’s a carbon-neutral facility. Many of the charming old-timey Americana rooms have mesmerizing views over the misty river, as does the dining room, which serves locally sourced, organic New American cuisine. Carter House Inns B&B $$$ (% 707-444-8062; http://carterhouse.com; 301 L St, Eureka; r $179-385; W # ) Recently con-

structed in period style, this hotel is a Victorian lookalike, holding rooms with top-quality linens and modern amenities; suites have in-room Jacuzzis and marble fireplaces. The same owners operate four other sumptuously decorated lodgings: a single-level house, two honeymoon hideaway cottages and a replica of an 1880s San Francisco mansion, which the owner built himself, entirely by hand.

5 Eating & Drinking Arcata has the biggest variety of dining options, from organic juice bars and vegan cafes to Californian and world-fusion bistros. Wildberries Marketplace MARKET, DELI $ (www.wildberries.com; 747 13th St, Arcata; sandwiches $4-10; h 7am-midnight; v ) Wildberries Mar-

ketplace is Arcata’s best grocery, with natural foods, a good deli, bakery and juice bar.

oBrick & Fire

CALIFORNIAN $$

(% 707-268-8959; www.brickandfirebistro.com; 1630 F St, Eureka; dinner mains $14-23; h 11:30am9pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun) Eureka’s

best restaurant is in an intimate, warmhued, bohemian-tinged setting that is almost always busy. Choose from thin-crust pizzas, delicious salads (try the pear and blue cheese) and an ever-changing selection of appetizers and mains that highlight local produce and wild mushrooms. There’s a weighty wine list and servers are well-versed in pairings.

1 57 Lost Coast Brewery BREWERY (% 707-445-4480; www.lostcoast.com; 617 4th St, Eureka; h 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; W ) The roster of the regular brews at

Redwood Curtain Brewing Company BREWERY (www.redwoodcurtainbrewing.com; 550 S G St, Arcata; h noon-11pm Sun-Tue, to midnight Wed-Sat)

A newer brewery (started in 2010), this tiny gem has a varied collection of rave-worthy craft ales and live music most Thursdays and Saturdays. Plus it offers free wheat thins and goldfish crackers to munch on.

88 Getting There & Around Arcata’s Greyhound depot (% 707-825-8934; 925 E St at 9th St) has daily buses to San Francisco ($57, seven hours) via Eureka, Garberville, Ukiah and Santa Rosa. Several daily Redwood Transit System (p155) buses stop in Eureka and Arcata on the Hwy 101 (Trinidad–Scotia) route ($3, 2½ hours).

Sacramento

In California’s capital city, politicians in SUVs go bumper-to-bumper with farmers driving muddy, half-ton pickups at rush hour. ‘Sac’ got its start when eccentric Swiss immigrant John Sutter built a fort here in 1839. Once gold was discovered in the nearby Sierra foothills in 1848, the town’s population boomed. After much legislative waffling, it became California’s state capital in 1854. Old Sacramento remains a visitor’s magnet – a riverside area with raised wooden sidewalks that can feel like a ye olde tourist trap. More interesting food and culture are hidden on the grid of streets downtown and in Midtown, where an arts scene quietly defies the city’s reputation as a cow town.

1 Sights California State Railroad Museum MUSEUM (% 916-323-9280; www.csrmf.org; 125 I St; adult/ child $10/5; h 10am-5pm Fri-Wed, to 8pm Thu; c ) At Old Sac’s north end is this impres-

sive collection of railcars and locomotives

California State Capitol HISTORIC BUILDING (% 916-324-0333; http://capitolmuseum.ca.gov; 1315 10th St; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun) F The gleaming dome of the Cali-

fornia State Capitol is Sacramento’s most recognizable structure. A painting of Arnold Schwarzenegger in a suit hangs in the West Wing with the other governors’ portraits. Some will find Capitol Park, the 40 acres of gardens and memorials surrounding the building, more interesting than what’s inside. Tours run hourly until 4pm. California Museum MUSEUM (% 916-653-0650; www.californiamuseum.org; 1020 O St; adult/child $9/6.50; h 10am-5pm TueSat, from noon Sun; c ) This modern museum

is home to the California Hall of Fame and so the only place to simultaneously encounter César Chávez, Mark Zuckerberg and Amelia Earhart. The California Indians exhibit is a highlight, with artifacts and oral histories of more than 100 distinct tribes. Crocker Art Museum MUSEUM (% 916-808-7000; https://crockerartmuseum. org; 216 O St; adult/child $10/5; h 10am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu) Housed in the

Crocker family’s ornate Victorian mansion (and sprawling additions), this museum is stunning as much for its striking architecture (old and new) as its collections. There are some very fine works by both California painters and European masters. The contemporary collection is most enthusiastically presented.

4 Sleeping Hotels cater to business travelers, so look for weekend bargains. The freeways and suburbs around the city are glutted with budget and midrange chain lodgings. HI Sacramento Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 916-443-1691; http://norcalhostels.org/sac; 925 H St; dm $30-33, r with/without bath from $86/58;

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Eureka’s colorful brewery might not knock the socks off a serious beer snob (and can’t hold a candle to some of the others on the coast), but highlights include the Downtown Brown Ale, Great White and Lost Coast Pale Ale. After downing a few pints, the fried pub grub starts to look pretty tasty.

from miniature to true scale. While the candy-coated recounting of the struggles of those who laid the track is unsettling, the fully outfitted Pullman sleeper and vintage diner cars will thrill rail fans. Board a restored passenger train (adult/child $12/6) from the Sacramento Southern Railroad ticket office, across the plaza on Front St, for a 40-minute jaunt along the river. Weather permitting, train rides run hourly from 11am to 4pm on weekends from April to September.

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In a grand Victorian mansion, this hostel offers impressive trimmings at rock-bottom prices. It’s within walking distance of the capitol, Old Sac and the train station and has a piano in the parlor and large dining room. It attracts an international crowd often open to sharing a ride to San Francisco or Lake Tahoe. Limited parking $5. h check-in 2-10:30pm; aiW )

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oCitizen Hotel

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(% info 916-447-2700, reservations 916-4924460; www.jdvhotels.com; 926 J St; r from $159; aiW# ) With an elegant, ultrahip upgrade

by the Joie de Vivre group, the long-vacant Citizen has suddenly become one of the coolest stays in these parts. Rooms are sleek, with luxe linen and bold-patterned decor. There’s an upscale farm-to-fork restaurant, Grange Sacramento (% 916-492-4450; www. grangesacramento.com; 926 J St; dinner mains $1939; h 6:30-10:30am & 11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 8am2pm Sat & Sun, 5:30pm-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; W ), on the ground floor. Delta King B&B $$ (% 916-444-5464; www.deltaking.com; 1000 Front St; d incl breakfast from $145; aW ) It’s a treat to

sleep aboard the Delta King, a 1927 paddle wheeler docked in Old Sac that lights up like a Christmas tree at night.

5 Eating & Drinking For more restaurants and bars, make for Midtown, especially J St east of 16th St. La Bonne Soupe Cafe DELI $ (% 916-492-9506; 920 8th St; items $5-8; h 11am3pm Mon-Sat) Divine soup and sandwiches

assembled with such care that the line of downtown lunchers snakes out the door. If you’re in a hurry, skip it. This humble lunch counter is focused on quality that predates drive-through haste. Mulvaney’s B&L MODERN AMERICAN $$$ (% 916-441-6022; www.mulvaneysbl.com; 1215 19th St; mains $32-40; h 11:30am-2:30pm Tue-Fri, 5-10pm Tue-Sat) S With an obsessive commit-

ment to seasonality, the menu at this swank converted firehouse includes delicate pastas and grilled meats that change every day. Rubicon Brewing Company BREWERY (www.rubiconbrewing.com; 2004 Capitol Ave; h 11am-11:30pm Mon-Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun) These people take their hops se-

riously. Their heady selection is brewed on-

site. Monkey Knife Fight Pale Ale is ideal for washing back platters of hot wings.

88 Getting There & Around About 11 miles northwest of downtown off I-5, Sacramento International Airport (SMF; www. sacramento.aero/smf; 6900 Airport Blvd) is served mainly by domestic flights. Inconveniently stopping 2 miles northwest of downtown, Greyhound (% 800-231-2222; www. greyhound.com; 420 Richards Blvd) has several daily buses to San Francisco ($20, two to 2½ hours). From downtown’s train station (% 877-9743322; www.capitolcorridor.org; 401 I St), Amtrak runs frequent Capitol Corridor trains to/from the San Francisco Bay Area ($29, two hours); thrice-daily San Joaquin trains, with onward bus connections to Yosemite Valley ($38, five hours); and daily long-distance Coast Starlight and California Zephyr trains. Sacramento Regional Transit (RT; % 916321-2877; www.sacrt.com; fare/day pass $2.50/6) runs a bus and light-rail system around town.

Gold Country

Hard to believe, but this is where it all began – these quaint hill towns and drowsy oak-lined byways belie the wild, chaotic, often violent founding of California. After a glint caught James Marshall’s eye in Sutter’s Creek in 1848, the gold rush brought a 300,000-stong stampede of forty-niners to these Sierra foothills. The frenzy paid little heed to the starched moral decorum of Victorian society, populating lawless boom towns and wreaking environmental havoc. Traveling here might be a thrill for history buffs – the fading historical markers tell tales of bloodlust and banditry – but more tactile pleasures await anyone willing to plunge into a swimming hole, rattle down a mountain-biking trail or go white-water rafting in the icy currents of local rivers. Hwy 50 divides the Northern and Southern Mines. Winding Hwy 49, which connects everything, provides plenty of vistas of the famous hills. The Gold Country Visitors Association (www.calgold.org) has many more touring ideas.

88 Getting There & Around A patchwork of public buses sporadically serves some towns. For the Northern Mines, several daily Gold Country Stage (% 888-660-7433, 530-477-

1 59

Northern Mines Known as the ‘Queen of the Northern Mines,’ the narrow streets of Nevada City gleam with lovingly restored buildings, tiny theaters, art galleries, cafes and shops. The

visitor center (% 530-265-2692; www.nevadacitychamber.com; 132 Main St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) dispenses infor-

4pm Nov-Mar; c ) pays tribute to James Mar-

shall’s riot-inducing discovery, with restored buildings and gold-panning opportunities. There’s a hilltop monument to Marshall himself, who ironically died a penniless ward of the state.

4 Sleeping & Eating Nevada City has the biggest spread of restaurants and historical B&Bs. Motels speckle Hwy 49 in Grass Valley and I-80 in Auburn.

oOutside Inn

MOTEL, CABIN $$

(% 530-265-2233; www.outsideinn.com; 575 E Broad St, Nevada City; d $79-210; aW sc # )

The best option for active explorers, this is an unusually friendly and fun motel, with 12 rooms and three cottages maintained by staff that loves the outdoors and has excellent information about area hiking. Some rooms have a patio overlooking a small creek; all have nice quilts and access to BBQ grills. It’s a 10-minute walk from downtown. Broad Street Inn INN $$ (% 530-265-2239; www.broadstreetinn.com; 517 W Broad St, Nevada City; r $115-125; aW # ) S

mation and self-guided walking-tour maps. On Hwy 49, the Tahoe National Forest

This six-room inn is a favorite because it keeps things simple. (No weird old dolls, no yellowing lace doilies.) The good-value rooms are modern, brightly furnished and elegant.

provides camping and hiking information and wilderness permits. Just over a mile east of utilitarian Grass Valley and Hwy 49, Empire Mine State

Ikedas MARKET $ (www.ikedas.com; 13500 Lincoln Way; sandwiches $6-9; h 11am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri-Sun; v ) If you’re cruising this part of the state

Headquarters (% 530-265-4531; www.fs.usda. gov/tahoe; 631 Coyote St; h 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)

Historic Park (% 530-273-8522; www.empiremine.org; 10791 E Empire St; adult/child $7/3; h 10am-5pm) marks the site of one of the

richest mines in California. From 1850 to 1956 it produced almost 6 million ounces of gold – over $6 billion in today’s market. When it’s swelteringly hot outside during summer, if you see a line of cars parked roadside along Hwy 49, that’s your signal to discover a swimming hole. One of the best is where the North and Middle Forks of the American River join up at Auburn State

Recreation Area (% 530-885-4527; www.parks. ca.gov; per car $10; h 7am-sunset). It’s just east of Auburn, an I-80 pit stop about 25 miles

south of Grass Valley. Coloma is where California’s gold rush started. Riverside Marshall Gold Discov-

ery State Historic Park (% 530-622-3470; http://marshallgold.org; per car $8; h 8am-5pm, to 7pm late May-early Sep, museum 10am-5pm, to

without time to explore, the best pit stop is this expanded farm stand off I-80 a few miles north of downtown. Thick, grass-fed beef or tofu burgers, homemade pies and the seasonal fresh peach shake are deliriously good.

oNew Moon Café

CALIFORNIAN $$$

(% 530-265-6399; www.thenewmooncafe.com; 203 York St; dinner mains $23-38; h 11:30am-2pm Tue-Fri, 5-8:30pm Tue-Sun) S Pure elegance,

Peter Selaya’s organic and local-ingredient menu changes with the seasons. If you visit during spring or summer, go for the linecaught fish or the housemade, moon-shaped fresh ravioli.

Southern Mines The towns of the Southern Mines – from Placerville to Sonora – receive less traffic and their dusty streets have a whiff of Wild West, today evident in the motley crew of

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0103; www.goldcountrystage.com; fares $1.503) buses link Nevada City via Grass Valley with Auburn, an Amtrak (% 800-872-7245; www. amtrak.com; 277 Nevada St) train stop. Placer County Transit (% 530-885-2877; www.placer. ca.gov/transit; fare $1.25) buses connect Auburn with Sacramento hourly. Among the Southern Mines, weekday-only Amador Transit (% 209-267-9395; http:// amadortransit.com; fares $1-3; h Mon-Fri) runs twice-daily buses between Sutter Creek and Sacramento, Amador City, Plymouth and Jackson. A few daily Calaveras Transit (% 20 9-754-4450; http://transit.calaverasgov.us; fare $2) buses serve Jackson, Mokelumne Hill, Angels Camp and Murphys. Weekday-only Tuolumne County Transit (% 209-532-0404; www.tuolumnecountytransit.com; fare $1.50; h Mon-Fri) buses and trolleys loop between Sonora, Columbia and Jamestown.

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Harley riders and gold prospectors (still!) who populate them. Some, like Plymouth (ol’ Pokerville), Volcano and Mokelumne Hill, are virtual ghost towns, slowly crumbling into photogenic oblivion. Others, like Sutter Creek, Murphys and Angels Camp, are gussied-up showpieces of Victorian Americana. Get off the beaten path at family- run vineyards and subterranean caverns, where geological wonders reward those who first navigate the touristy gift shops above ground. A short detour off Hwy 49, Columbia State Historic Park (% 209-588-9128; www. parks.ca.gov; 11255 Jackson St, Columbia; h museum 10am-5pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar; c ) F

preserves blocks of authentic 1850s buildings complete with shopkeepers and street musicians in period costumes. Also near Sonora, Railtown 1897 State Historic Park

(% 209-984-3953; www.railtown1897.org; 18115 5th Ave, Jamestown; adult/child $5/3, incl train ride $15/10; h 9:30am-4:30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-3pm Nov-Mar, train rides 10:30am-3pm Sat & Sun AprOct; c ) offers excursion trains through the

surrounding hills where Hollywood Westerns including High Noon have been filmed.

4 Sleeping & Eating Lacy B&Bs, cafes and ice-cream parlors are found in nearly every town. Sonora, about an hour’s drive from Yosemite National Park, and Placerville have the most motels. Indian Grinding Rock State Historic Park CAMPGROUND $ (% reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; 148881 Pine Grove-Volcano Rd, Pine Grove; tent & RV sites $30) The beautiful campground

at Indian Grinding Rock State Historic Park has fresh water, plumbing and 22 nonreservable sites set among the trees, with tent sites and hookups for RVs.

City Hotel HOTEL $$ (% info 209-532-1479, reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; 22768 Main St, Columbia; r $85-115; aW ) Among the handful of re-

stored Victorian hotels in the area, the City Hotel is the most elegant, with rooms that overlook a shady stretch of Main St and that open on lovely sitting rooms. The acclaimed restaurant (mains $15 to $30) is frequented by a Twain impersonator and the adjoining What Cheer Saloon is an atmospheric Gold Country joint with oil paintings of lusty ladies and striped wallpaper.

Imperial Hotel B&B $$ (% 209-267-9172; www.imperialamador.com; 14202 Hwy 49, Amador City; r $105-155, ste $125195; a W ) Built in 1879, it’s one of the ar-

ea’s most inventive updates to the typical antique-cluttered hotels, with sleek deco touches accenting the usual gingerbread flourish, a genteel bar and a very good, seasonally minded restaurant (dinner mains $14 to $30). On weekends and holidays, expect a two-night minimum.

Volcano Union Inn HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (% 209-296-7711; www.volcanounion.com; 21375 Consolation St, Volcano; r incl breakfast $119-139; a W ) The preferred of two historic hotels

in Volcano, this one has four lovingly updated rooms with crooked floors: two have street-facing balconies. Flat-screen TVs and modern touches are a bit incongruous with the old building, but it’s a comfortable place to stay. The on-site Union Pub (dinner mains $12 to $28) has a superb menu and will host the occasional fiddler. Cozmic Café & Pub HEALTH FOOD $ (www.ourcoz.com; 594 Main St; items $4-10; h 7am-8pm; W v ) In the historic Placerville

Soda Works building, the menu is organic and boasts vegetarian and healthy fare backed by fresh smoothies. There’s a good selection of microbrews and live music on weekends, when it stays open late.

Northern Mountains

Remote, empty and eerily beautiful, these are some of California’s least visited wild lands, an endless show of geological wonders, clear lakes, rushing rivers and high desert. The major peaks – Lassen, Shasta and the Trinity Alps – have few geological features in common, but all offer backcountry camping under starry skies. Small towns dotting the region aren’t attractions themselves, but are handy resupply points for further wilderness adventures.

Redding to Mt Shasta Much of the drive north of Redding is dominated by Mt Shasta, a 14,180ft snowcapped goliath at the southern end of the volcanic Cascades Range. It arises dramatically, fueling the anticipation felt by mountaineers who seek to climb its slopes.

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(% 800-887-8532; www.turtlebay.org; 844 Sundial Bridge Dr; adult/child $16/12, after 3:30pm $11/7; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun, closing 1hr earlier Nov–mid-Mar; c ), a kid-friendly science

and nature center with botanical gardens. Six miles west of Redding along Hwy 299, explore a genuine gold-rush town at Shasta State Historic Park (% 520-243-8194; www. parks.ca.gov; museum entry adult/child $3/2; h 10am-5pm Thu-Sun). Two miles further west, Whiskeytown National Recreation Area (% 530-246-1225; Hwy 299 at JFK Memorial Dr, Whiskeytown; h 10am-4pm) harbors Whiskeytown Lake, with sandy beaches, waterfall

hikes and water-sports and camping opportunities. In sleepy Weaverville, another 35 miles further west, Joss House State His-

toric Park (% 530-623-5284; www.parks.ca.gov; 630 Main St; tour adult/child $4/2; h tours hourly 10am-4pm Thu-Sun) preserves an ornate 1874

Chinese immigrant temple. North of Redding, I-5 crosses deep-blue Shasta Lake, California’s biggest reservoir, formed by colossal Shasta Dam (% 530275-4463; www.usbr.gov/mp/ncao/shasta/; 16349 Shasta Dam Blvd; h visitor center 8am-5pm, tours 9am-3:30pm) F and ringed by houseboat

marinas and RV campgrounds. High in the limestone megaliths on the lake’s northern side are prehistoric Lake Shasta Caverns (% 530-238-2341; http://lakeshastacaverns.com; 20359 Shasta Caverns Rd, Lakehead; 2hr tour adult/child $24/14; h tours every 30min 9am-4pm late May-early Sep, hourly 9am-3pm Apr-late May & early-late Sep, 10am, noon & 2pm Oct-Mar; c ),

where tours include a catamaran ride. Another 35 miles north on I-5, Duns muir is a teeny historic railroad town with vibrant art galleries inhabiting a quaint downtown district. Six miles south off I-5, Castle Crags State Park (% 530-235-2684; www.parks.ca.gov; per car $8; h sunrise-sunset) shelters forested campsites (% reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $15-30). Be awed by stunning views of

Mt Shasta from the top of the park’s hardy 5.6-mile round-trip Crags Trail. Nine miles north of Dunsmuir, Mt Shasta city lures climbers, new-age hippies and

back-to-nature types, all of whom revere the majestic mountain looming overhead. Usually open and snow free beyond Bunny Flat from June until October, Everitt Memorial Hwy ascends the mountain to a perfect sunset-watching perch at almost 8000ft – simply head east from town on Lake St and keep going. For experienced mountaineers, climbing the peak above 10,000ft requires a Summit Pass ($20), available from Mt Shasta Ranger Station (% 530-926-4511; www. fs.usda.gov/stnf; 204 W Alma St; h 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri), which has weather reports and sells topgraphic maps. Stop by downtown’s Fifth Season (% 530-926-3606; http://thefifthseason. com; 300 N Mt Shasta Blvd; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) outdoor-gear shop for equipment rentals. Shasta Mountain Guides (% 530-926-3117; http://shasta guides.com) offers mountaineering trips

(from $550).

4 Sleeping Roadside motels are abundant, including in Mt Shasta city. Redding has the most chain lodgings, clustered near major highways. Campgrounds are abundant, especially on public lands.

oMcCloud River Mercantile Hotel

INN $$

(% 530-964-2330; www.mccloudmercantile.com; 241 Main St, McCloud; r $129-250; W ) Stoll up-

stairs to the 2nd floor of McCloud’s central Mercantile and try not to fall in love; it’s all high ceilings, exposed brick and a perfect marriage of preservationist class and modern panache. The rooms with antique furnishings are situated within open floor plans. Shasta MountInn B&B $$ (% 530-926-1810; www.shastamountinn.com; 203 Birch St, Mt Shasta city; r $150-175; W ) Only an-

tique on the outside, this bright Victorian 1904 farmhouse is all relaxed minimalism, bold colors and graceful decor on the inside. Each airy room has a great bed and exquisite views of the luminous mountain. Enjoy the expansive garden, wraparound deck, outdoor hot tub and sauna. Not relaxed enough yet? Chill on the perfectly placed porch swings. Railroad Park Resort INN, CAMPGROUND $$ (% 530-235-4440; www.rrpark.com; 100 Railroad Park Rd, Dunsmuir; tent/RV sites from $29/37, d $135-165; a W s c # ) About 2 miles south

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Don’t believe the tourist brochures: Redding, the region’s largest city, is a snooze. The best reason to detour off I-5 is the Sundial Bridge, a glass-bottomed pedestrian marvel designed by Spanish neofuturist architect Santiago Calatrava. It spans the Sacramento River at Turtle Bay Exploration Park

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of town, off I-5, visitors can spend the night inside refitted vintage railroad cars and cabooses. The grounds are fun for kids, who can run around the engines and plunge in a centrally situated pool. The deluxe boxcars are furnished with antiques and claw-foot tubs, although the cabooses are simpler and a bit less expensive.

5 Eating & Drinking Dunsmuir Brewery Works PUB FOOD $ (% 530-235-1900; www.dunsmuirbreweryworks. com; 5701 Dunsmuir Ave, Dunsmuir; mains $10-15; h 11am-9pm Tue-Sun; W ) It’s hard to describe

this little microbrew pub without veering into hyperbole. Start with the beer: the crisp ales and porter are perfectly balanced and the IPA is apparently pretty good too, because patrons are always drinking it dry. Soak it up with awesome bar food; a warm potato salad, bratwurst or a thick Angus burger. Yaks AMERICAN $ (www.yaks.com; 4917 Dunsmuir Ave, Dunsmuir; mains $8-18; h 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; W ) Hiding under the Hitching Post sign just

off I-5, this is where you come to blow your diet. Breakfast means Cuban peppersteak hash or perhaps home-baked cinnamon roll French toast with choice of house syrups like Baileys-and-bourbon. Lunch offers a huge range of burgers (try the one with the house-roasted coffee rub). There’s also a takeout counter. Berryvale Grocery MARKET, DELI $ (www.berryvale.com; 305 S Mt Shasta Blvd, Mt Shasta city; items $4-11; h store 8am-8pm, cafe to 7pm; v ) S This market sells groceries and

organic produce to health-conscious eaters. The excellent cafe serves good coffee and an array of tasty – mostly veggie – salads, sandwiches and wraps.

oCafé Maddalena EUROPEAN, NORTH AFRICAN $$$

(% 530-235-2725; www.cafemaddalena.com; 5801 Sacramento Ave, Dunsmuir; mains $15-26; h 59pm Thu-Sun Feb-Dec) Simple and elegant, this

cafe put Dunsmuir on the foodie map. The menu was designed by chef Bret LaMott (of Trinity Cafe fame) and changes weekly to feature dishes from southern Europe and northern Africa. Some highlights include pan-roasted king salmon with basil cream, or sauteed rabbit with carrots and morel sauce.

88 Getting There & Around Amtrak’s Coast Starlight trains inconveniently stop in Redding and Dunsmuir in the dead of night. Thrice-daily Greyhound (% 800-2312222; www.greyhound.com) buses connect Weed, 10 miles north of Mt Shasta via I-5, with Redding ($27, 80 minutes) and Sacramento ($63, 4½ to 5½ hours). STAGE (% 530-8428295; www.co.siskiyou.ca.us; fares $1.75-6) buses travel the I-5 corridor a few times daily, linking Weed, Mt Shasta city, McCloud and Dunsmuir.

Northeast Corner Site of California’s last major Native American conflict and a half-million years of volcanic destruction, Lava Beds National

Monument (% 530-667-8113; www.nps.gov/ labe; 7-day entry per car $15) is a peaceful monu-

ment to centuries of turmoil. This park’s got it all: lava flows, cinder and spatter cones, volcanic craters and amazing lava tubes. It was the site of the Modoc War, and ancient Native American petroglyphs are etched into rocks and pictographs painted on cave walls. Pick up info and maps at the visitor center (% 530-667-8113; www.nps.gov/labe; Tulelake; h 8am-6pm late May-early Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–mid-May), which sells basic spelunk-

ing gear (borrow flashlights for free). Nearby is the park’s basic campground (tent & RV sites $10; # ), where drinking water is available. Over 20 miles northeast of the park, the dusty town of Tulelake off Hwy 139 has basic motels, roadside diners and gas. Comprising six separate refuges in California and Oregon, Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge Complex is a prime stopover on the Pacific Flyway and an important wintering site for bald eagles. When the spring and fall migrations peak, more than a million birds can fill the sky. The visitor center (% 530-667-2231; http://klamath basinrefuges.fws.gov; 4009 Hill Rd, Tulelake; h 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) F is off Hwy 161, about 4 miles south of

the Oregon border. Self-guided 10-mile auto tours of the Lower Klamath and Tule Lake refuges provide excellent birding opportunities. Paddle the Upper Klamath refuge’s 9.5mile canoe trail by launching from Rocky Point Resort (% 541-356-2287; www.rocky pointoregon.com; 28121 Rocky Point Rd, Klamath Falls, OR; canoe & kayak rental per hr/half-day/day $20/45/60). For gas, food and lodging, drive

into Klamath Falls, OR, off Hwy 97.

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Quietly impressive Lassen Volcanic Na-

tional Park (% 530-595-4480; www.nps.gov/ lavo; 7-day entry per car $20) has hydrothermal

ground (% reservations 877-444-6777; www. recreation.gov; tent & RV sites $15-24, cabins $6995; c# ); and a 40-minute drive northwest of Lake Almanor off Hwy 89, by the Kohm Yah-ma-nee Visitor Center (% 530-5954480; www.nps.gov/lavo; h 9am-5pm, closed Mon & Tue Nov-Mar; c ) S. Hwy 89 through the

park is typically snow free and open to cars from June though October.

SIERRA NEVADA The mighty Sierra Nevada – baptized the ‘Range of Light’ by poet-naturalist John Muir – is California’s backbone. This 400mile phalanx of craggy peaks, chiseled and gouged by glaciers and erosion, both welcomes and challenges outdoor-sports enthusiasts. Cradling three national parks (Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon), the Sierra is a spellbinding wonderland of superlative wilderness, boasting the contiguous USA’s highest peak (Mt Whitney), North America’s tallest waterfall (Yosemite Falls) and the world’s oldest and biggest trees (ancient bristlecone pines and giant sequoias, respectively).

Yosemite National Park

There’s a reason why everybody’s heard of it: the granite-peak heights are dizzying, the mist from thunderous waterfalls drenching, the Technicolor wildflower meadows amazing and the majestic silhouettes of El Capitan and Half Dome almost shocking against a crisp blue sky. It’s a landscape of dreams, surrounding oh-so-small people on all sides. Then, alas, the hiss and belch of another tour bus, disgorging dozens, rudely breaks the spell. While staggering crowds can’t be ignored, these rules will shake most of ’em: ¨¨Avoid summer in the valley. Spring’s best, especially when waterfalls gush in

¨¨Park

your car and leave it – by hiking a short distance up almost any trail, you’ll lose car-dependent hordes. ¨¨Forget

jet lag. Get up for sunrise, or go for moonlit hikes with stargazing.

1 Sights The main entrances to the park (% 209-372-

0200; www.nps.gov/yose; 7-day entry per car $30)

are at Arch Rock (Hwy 140), Wawona (Hwy 41) and Big Oak Flat (Hwy 120 west). Tioga Pass (Hwy 120 east) is open only seasonally.

1 Yosemite Valley From the ground up, this dramatic valley cut by the meandering Merced River is song- inspiring: rippling green meadow-grass; stately pines; cool, impassive pools reflecting looming granite monoliths; and cascading ribbons of glacially cold white water. Often overrun and traffic-choked, Yosemite Village is home to the park’s main visitor center (p166), museum (h 9am-5pm summer, 10am-4pm winter, often closed noon-1pm) F, photography gallery, movie theater, general store and many more services. Curry Village is another valley hub, offering public showers and outdoor-equipment rental and sales, including camping gear. Spring snowmelt turns the valley’s famous waterfalls into thunderous cataracts; most are reduced to a mere trickle by late summer. Yosemite Falls is North America’s tallest, dropping 2425ft in three tiers. A wheelchair-accessible trail leads to the bottom of this cascade or, for solitude and different perspectives, you can trek the gruel ing trail to the top (6.8 miles round-trip). No less impressive are other waterfalls around the valley. A strenuous granite staircase beside Vernal Fall leads you, gasping, right to the waterfall’s edge for a vertical view – look for rainbows in the clouds of mist. You can’t ignore the valley’s monumental El Capitan (7569ft), an El Dorado for rock climbers. Toothed Half Dome (8842ft) soars above the valley as Yosemite’s spiritual centerpiece. The classic panoramic photo op is at Tunnel View on Hwy 41 as you drive into the valley.

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sulfur pools, boiling mud pots and steaming pools, as glimpsed from the Bumpass Hell boardwalk. Tackle Lassen Peak (10,457ft), the world’s largest plug-dome volcano, on a strenuous, but nontechnical 5-mile roundtrip trail. The park has two entrances: an hour’s drive east of Redding off Hwy 44, near popular Manzanita Lake Camp-

May. Autumn is blissfully peaceful, and snowy winter days can be magical too.

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1 Glacier Point

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Rising over 3000ft above the valley floor, dramatic Glacier Point (7214ft) practically puts you at eye level with Half Dome. It’s at least an hour’s drive from Yosemite Valley up Glacier Point Rd (usually open from May into November) off Hwy 41, or a strenuous hike along the Four Mile Trail (actually, 4.6 miles one way) or the less-crowded, waterfall-strewn Panorama Trail (8.5 miles one way). To hike one way downhill from Glacier Point, reserve a seat on the hikers’ shuttle bus (adult/child $25/15).

1 Wawona At Wawona, an hour’s drive south of Yosemite Valley, drop by the Pioneer Yosemite

History Center (rides adult/child $5/4; h 24hr, rides Wed-Sun Jun-Sep; c ) F, with its cov-

ered bridge, historic buildings and horsedrawn stagecoach rides. Further south stands towering Mariposa Grove, home of the Grizzly Giant and other giant sequoia trees. Free shuttle buses usually run to the grove from spring through fall. Note that the grove is closed to visitors for restoration until spring 2017.

1 Tuolumne Meadows A 90-minute drive from Yosemite Valley, high-altitude Tuolumne Meadows (pronounced twol-uh-mee) draws hikers, backpackers and climbers to the park’s northern wilderness. The Sierra Nevada’s largest sub-

alpine meadow (8600ft), it’s a vivid contrast to the valley, with wildflower fields, azure lakes, ragged granite peaks, polished domes and cooler temperatures. Hikers and climbers have a paradise of options; lake swimming and picnicking are also popular. Access is via scenic Tioga Rd (Hwy 120), which is only open seasonally. West of Tuolumne Meadows and Tenaya Lake, stop at Olmsted Point for epic vistas of Half Dome.

1 Hetch Hetchy A 40-mile drive northwest of Yosemite Valley, it’s the site of perhaps the most controversial dam in US history. Despite not existing in its natural state, Hetch Hetchy Valley remains pretty and mostly crowd free. A 5.4-mile round-trip hike across the dam and through a tunnel to the base of Wapama Falls lets you get thrillingly close to an avalanche of water crashing down into the sparkling reservoir.

2 Activities With more than 800 miles of varied hiking trails, you’re spoiled for choice. Easy valley-floor routes can get jammed; escape the teeming masses by heading up. The ultimate hike summits Half Dome (14 to 16 miles round-trip), but be warned: it’s very strenuous, and advance lottery permits (from $12.50) are required even for day hikes. Without a permit, it’s rewarding to hike as far as the top of Vernal Fall (2.4 miles roundtrip) or Nevada Fall (5.4 miles round-trip) via the Mist Trail.

CAMPING IN YOSEMITE From mid-March through mid-October or November, many park campgrounds accept or require reservations (% 518-885-3639, 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov), which are available starting five months in advance. Campsites routinely sell out online within minutes. All campgrounds have bear-proof lockers and campfire rings; most have potable water. In summer most campgrounds are noisy and booked to bulging, especially North Pines (tent & RV sites $26; h Apr-Oct; # ), Lower Pines (tent & RV sites $26; h Apr-Oct; # ) and Upper Pines (tent & RV sites $26; h year-round; # ) in Yosemite Valley; Tuolumne Meadows (tent & RV sites $26; h Jul-Sep; c # ) off Tioga Rd; and riverside Wawona (tent & RV sites $18-26; h year-round; # ). Year-round the following are all first-come, first served: Camp 4 (shared tent sites per person $6; h year-round), a rock climber’s hangout in the valley; Bridalveil Creek (tent & RV sites $18; h Jul-early Sep; # ), off Glacier Point Rd; and White Wolf (tent & RV sites $18; h Jul-early Sep; # ), off Tioga Rd. They often fill before noon, especially on weekends. Looking for a quieter, more rugged experience? Try the primitive campgrounds (no potable water) off Tioga Rd at Tamarack Flat (tent sites $12; h late Jun-Sep; # ), Yosemite Creek (tent sites $12; h Jul-early Sep; # ) and Porcupine Flat (tent & RV sites $12; h Jul–mid-Oct; # ), all first-come, first-served.

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For overnight backpacking trips, wilderness permits (from $10) are required yearround. A quota system limits the number of hikers leaving daily from each trailhead. Make reservations up to 26 weeks in advance, or try your luck at the Yosemite er permit-issuing station, starting at 11am on the day before you aim to hike. Yosemite Mountaineering School ROCK CLIMBING (% 209-372-8344; Curry Village; h Apr-Oct) Of-

fers topflight instruction for novice to advanced climbers, plus guided climbs and equipment rental.

4 Sleeping & Eating Concessionaire DNC (% 801-559-4884; www. yosemitepark.com) has a monopoly on park lodging and eating establishments, including fast-food courts and snack bars. Lodging reservations (up to 366 days in advance) are essential for peak season (May to September). During summer, DNC sets up simple canvas-tent cabins at riverside Housekeeping Camp (q $106; h Apr-Oct) in Yosemite Valley and at busy Tuolumne Meadows Lodge (tent cabins $123; h mid-Jun–mid-Sep) and quieter White Wolf Lodge (tent cabins $126, cabins with bath $158; h Jul–mid-Sep) off

Tioga Rd.

Curry Village CABIN $$ (tent cabins $121-126, cabins $193, without bath $146; Ws ) Founded in 1899 as a sum-

mer camp, Curry has hundreds of units squished tightly together beneath towering evergreens. The canvas cabins are basically glorified tents, so for more comfort, quiet and privacy get one of the cozy wood cabins, which have bedspreads, drapes and vintage posters. There are also 18 attractive motel-style rooms in the Stoneman House (r $202), including a loft suite sleeping up to six. Wawona Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (r $226, without bath $155; h mid-Mar–Dec; W s )

This National Historic Landmark, dating from 1879, is a collection of six graceful, whitewashed New England–style buildings flanked by wide porches. The 104 rooms – with no phone or TV – come with Victorian- style furniture and other period items, and about half the rooms share bathrooms, with nice robes provided for the walk there.

oAhwahnee Hotel

HISTORIC HOTEL $$$

(r from $458; iWs ) The crème de la crème

of Yosemite’s lodging, this sumptuous historic property dazzles with soaring ceilings, Turkish kilims lining the hallways and atmospheric lounges with mammoth stone fireplaces. It’s the gold standard for upscale lodges, though if you’re not blessed with bullion, you can still soak up the ambience during afternoon tea, a drink in the bar or a gourmet meal. Yosemite Lodge at the Falls MOTEL $$$ (r from $235; i W s ) S Situated a short

walk from Yosemite Falls, this multibuilding complex contains a wide range of eateries, a lively bar, big pool and other handy amenities. Delightful rooms, thanks to a recent eco-conscious renovation, now feel properly lodge-like, with rustic wooden furniture and striking nature photography. All have cable TV, telephone, fridge and coffeemaker, and great patio or balcony panoramas. Degnan’s Loft PIZZA $ (Yosemite Village; mains $8-12.50; h 11am-9pm late May-Sep; v c ) Head upstairs to this con-

vivial place with high-beamed ceilings and a many-sided fireplace, and kick back under the dangling lift chair for decent salads, lasagna and pizza.

oMountain Room Restaurant AMERICAN $$$

(% 209-372-1403; Yosemite Lodge; mains $17-36; h 5:30-9:30pm; v c ) S With killer views

of Yosemite Falls, the window tables at this casual and elegant contemporary steakhouse are a hot commodity. The chefs whip up the best meals in the park, with flat-iron steak and locally caught mountain trout wooing diners under a rotating display of nature photographs. Reservations are

Ca li fo rnia Y S os ileerra eepin mitNgee & vada N ational Eatin g Park

Valley Wilderness Center (% 209-372-0745; Yosemite Village; h 8am-5pm May-Sep) or anoth-

IMPASSABLE TIOGA PASS Hwy 120 is the only road connecting Yosemite National Park with the Eastern Sierra, climbing through Tioga Pass (9945ft). Most maps mark this road ‘closed in winter,’ which, while literally true, is also misleading. Tioga Rd is usually closed from the first heavy snowfall in October or November, not reopening until May or June. Call % 209-372-0200 or check www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/conditions.htm for current road conditions.

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SUPERSIZED FORESTS

Ca li fo rnia Y ISnformation os i e rra e mitNee vada N ational Park

In California you can stand under the world’s oldest trees (ancient bristlecone pines) and its tallest (coast redwoods), but the record for biggest in terms of volume belongs to giant sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum). They grow only on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada range and are most abundant in Sequoia, Kings Canyon and Yosemite National Parks. John Muir called them ‘Nature’s forest masterpiece,’ and anyone who’s ever craned their neck to take in their soaring vastness has probably done so with the same awe. These trees can grow to almost 275ft tall and 100ft in circumference, protected by bark up to 2ft thick. The Giant Forest Museum in Sequoia National Park has exhibits about the trees’ unusual ecology.

ingly decorated and comfy cabins (each with its own cache of board games) spread out among the trees. Accommodations run from rustic to deluxe, and all cabins have private porches without distracting phone or TV. Roughing-it guests can cheat with comfy, prefurnished tents. The place has just about everything you could ask for, including a tavern (complete with pool table), a general store, a fantastic restaurant serving all meals, live music, horseshoes, ping-pong, a giant outdoor chess set, a kids’ zip line and all sorts of guided hikes and outdoor activities – many of them family-oriented. Seasonal equipment rentals are also available.

88 Information

Gateway towns that have a mixed bag of motels, hotels, lodges and B&Bs include Fish Camp, Oakhurst, El Portal, Midpines, Mariposa, Groveland and, in the Eastern Sierra, Lee Vining.

Yosemite Village, Curry Village and Wawona stores all have ATMs. Drivers should fill up before entering the park. High-priced gas is sold at Wawona and Crane Flat year-round and at Tuolumne Meadows in summer. Cell-phone service is spotty throughout the park. Check the free park newspaper for wi-fi hot spots and payas-you-go internet terminals. Yosemite Medical Clinic (% 209-372-4637; 9000 Ahwahnee Dr, Yosemite Village; h 9am7pm daily late May-late Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri late Sep-late May) Twenty-four-hour emergency service available. Yosemite Valley Visitor Center (% 209-3720200; Yosemite Village; h 9am-5pm) The main office, with exhibits and free film screenings in the theater.

oYosemite Bug

88 Getting There & Around

accepted only for groups larger than eight; casual dress OK.

4 Outside Yosemite National Park

Rustic Mountain Resort HOSTEL, CABIN $ (% 209-966-6666, 866-826-7108; www.yosemitebug.com; 6979 Hwy 140, Midpines; dm $30, tent cabins $45-75, r with/without bath from $150/75; iWc ) S The highlight of the almost non-

existent town of Midpines is this folksy oasis, tucked away on a forested hillside about 25 miles from Yosemite. It’s more like a convivial mountain retreat than a hostel: at night, friendly folks of all ages and backgrounds share stories, music and delicious freshly prepared meals and beer and wine in the woodsy cafe before retreating to their beds.

oEvergreen Lodge

CABIN, CAMPGROUND $$$

(% 209-379-2606; www.evergreenlodge.com; 33160 Evergreen Rd; tents $90-125, cabins $180415; i W sc ) S Outside the park near

the entrance to Hetch Hetchy, this classic 90-year-old resort consists of a series of lov-

From the Greyhound and Amtrak stations in Merced, Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (YARTS; % 877-989-2787; www. yarts.com) buses travel year-round to Yosemite Valley via Hwy 140, stopping at towns along the way. In summer YARTS buses run from Yosemite Valley to Mammoth Lakes via Tuolumne Meadows along Hwys 120 and 395. One-way fares (including park entry fee) are $13 from Merced, $18 from Mammoth Lakes. Free shuttle buses loop around Yosemite Valley year-round and, in summer, the Tuolumne Meadows/Tioga Rd area. Bicycle rentals (per hour/day $12/34) are available seasonally at Curry Village and Yosemite Lodge at the Falls, both in the valley. In winter highways to the park are kept open (except Tioga Rd/Hwy 120), although snow chains may be required at any time; Glacier Point Rd remains open only as far as Badger Pass ski area, with free shuttle service from the valley.

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Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

1 Sights Sequoia was designated a national park in 1890; Kings Canyon, in 1940. Though distinct, these parks (% 559-565-3341; www.nps. gov/seki; 7-day entry per car $20) operate as one unit with a single admission fee. From the south, Hwy 198 enters Sequoia National Park beyond the town of Three Rivers at Ash Mountain, then ascends the zigzagging Generals Hwy to Giant Forest. From the west, Hwy 180 enters Kings Canyon National Park near Grant Grove, then plunges down into the canyon all the way to Cedar Grove.

1 Sequoia National Park We dare you to try hugging the trees in Giant Forest, a 3-sq-mile grove protecting gargantuan specimens – the world’s largest is the General Sherman Tree. With sore arms and sticky sap fingers, lose the crowds on a network of forested hiking trails (bring a map). Worth a detour is Mineral King Valley, a late-19th-century mining and logging camp ringed by craggy peaks and alpine lakes. The 25-mile one-way scenic drive – navigating almost 700 hair-raising hairpin turns – is usually open from late May until late October. Giant Forest Museum MUSEUM (% 559-565-4480; Generals Hwy, at Crescent Meadow Rd; h 9am-4:30pm; c ) F For a

primer on the intriguing ecology and history of giant sequoias, this pint-sized modern museum will entertain both kids and adults. Hands-on exhibits teach about the life stages of these big trees, which can live for over 3000 years, and the fire cycle that releases

Crystal Cave CAVE (% 559-565-3759; www.explorecrystalcave.com; Crystal Cave Rd, off Generals Hwy; tours adult/child/ youth from $16/5/8; h May-Nov; c ) Discovered

in 1918, the cave has marble formations estimated to be 10,000 years old. First-come, first-served tickets for the 50-minute introductory tour are only available in person at the Lodgepole and Foothills visitor centers, not at the cave. Bring a jacket.

1 Kings Canyon National Park & Scenic Byway

Just north of Grant Grove Village, General Grant Grove brims with majestic giants. Beyond, Hwy 180 begins its 30-mile descent into Kings Canyon, serpentining past chiseled rock walls laced with waterfalls. The road meets the Kings River, its roar ricocheting off granite cliffs soaring over 8000ft high, making this one of North America’s deepest canyons. At the bottom of the canyon, Cedar Grove is the last outpost before the rugged grandeur of the Sierra Nevada backcountry begins. A popular day hike climbs 4.6 miles one way to gushing Mist Falls from Roads End. A favorite of birders, an easy 1.5-mile nature trail loops around Zumwalt Meadow, just west of Roads End. Watch for lumbering black bears and springy mule deer. The scenic byway past Hume Lake to Cedar Grove Village is usually closed from mid-November to late April. Boyden Cavern CAVE (% 888-956-8243; www.caverntours.com/ BoydenRt.htm; Hwy 180; tours adult/child from $14.50/8.75; h late Apr-Sep; c ) While the

rooms are smaller and the interiors less eye-popping than Crystal Cave in Sequoia National Park, touring the beautiful and fantastical formations here requires no advance tickets. Just show up for the basic 45-minute tour, which departs hourly from 10am to 5pm during peak summer season. Reaching the cave entrance requires a short walk up a steep, paved grade.

Ca li fo rnia S iee gquoia rra hts N e&vada K in g s C anyon N ational Parks

In these neighboring parks, giant sequoia trees are bigger – up to 27 stories high! – and more numerous than anywhere else in the Sierra Nevada. Tough and fire-charred, they’d easily swallow two freeway lanes each. Giant, too, are the mountains – including Mt Whitney (14,505ft), the tallest peak in the lower 48 states. Finally, there is the deep Kings Canyon, carved out of granite by ancient glaciers and a powerful river. For quiet, solitude and close-up sightings of wildlife, including black bears, hit the trails and lose yourself in wilderness.

their seeds and allows them to sprout on bare soil. The museum itself is housed in a 1920s historic building designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood, famed architect of Yosemite’s Ahwahnee Hotel.

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2 Activities

Ca li fo rnia S A ie ctiviti equoia rra Nee&svada K in g s C anyon N ational Parks

Hiking is why people come here – with over 800 miles of marked trails to prove it. Cedar Grove and Mineral King offer the best backcountry access. Trails at higher elevations usually start opening by early summer. Overnight backcountry trips require wilderness permits (per trip $15), subject to a quota system from late May to late September; reserve well in advance for popular routes. In summer cool off by swimming in Hume Lake, on national forest land off Hwy 180, and at riverside swimming holes in both parks. In winter you can cross-country ski or snowshoe among giant sequoias; equipment rental is available at Grant Grove Village and Wuksachi Lodge.

4 Sleeping & Eating Camping reservations (p440) are accepted only from late spring through early fall at Lodgepole, Potwisha and Buckeye Flat Campgrounds (tent and RV sites $22) in Sequoia National Park. The parks’ 10 other developed campgrounds (tent and RV sites $10 to $20) are first-come, first-served. Potwisha, Azalea and remote South Fork are open year-round. Overflow camping is available on surrounding national-forest land. The markets at Lodgepole, Grant Grove and Cedar Grove have limited groceries. Lodgepole and Cedar Grove snack bars serve basic, budget-friendly meals. Grant Grove has a simple restaurant and espresso cart. Outside Sequoia’s southern entrance, mostly well-worn cabins and chain motels, as well as down-home eateries, line Hwy 198 through Three Rivers town. Wuksachi Lodge LODGE $$ (% 559-565-4070, 866-807-3598; www.visitsequoia.com; 64740 Wuksachi Way, off Generals Hwy; r $185-290; Wc ) Built in 1999, Wuksachi

Lodge is the park’s most upscale lodging and dining option. But don’t get too excited – the wood-paneled atrium lobby has an inviting stone fireplace and forest views, but charmless motel-style rooms with coffee makers, minifridges, oak furniture and thin walls have an institutional feel. The lodge’s location near Lodgepole Village, however, can’t be beat. John Muir Lodge LODGE $$ (% 559-335-5500, 866-807-3598; www.visitsequoia.com; off Hwy 180, Grant Grove Village; r from $170; W c ) An atmospheric wooden build-

ing hung with historical black-and-white photographs, this year-round hotel is a place to lay your head and still feel like you’re in the forest. Wide porches have wooden rocking chairs, and homespun rooms contain rough-hewn wood furniture and patchwork bedspreads. Cozy up to the big stone fireplace on chilly nights with a board game. Cedar Grove Lodge LODGE $$ (% 559-565-3096, 866-807-3598; www.visitsequoia.com; Hwy 180, Cedar Grove Village; r from $130; h early May–mid-Oct; aW c ) The only

indoor sleeping option in the canyon, the riverside lodge offers 21 unexciting motel- style rooms. A recent remodel has dispelled some of the frumpy decor. Three groundfloor rooms with shady furnished patios have spiffy river views and kitchenettes. All rooms have phones and TVs.

88 Information Lodgepole Village and Grant Grove Village are the parks’ main commerical hubs. Both have visitor centers, post offices, markets, ATMs, a coin-op laundry and public showers (summer only). The following visitor centres are open yearround: Foothills Visitor Center (% 559-565-4212; 47050 Generals Hwy; h 8am-4:30pm) At Ash Mountain. Lodgepole Visitor Center (% 559-565-4436; off Generals Hwy, Lodgepole Village; h 8am5pm early May-early Oct, 7am-7pm peak season) Near Giant Forest. Kings Canyon Visitor Center (% 559-5654307; Hwy 180, Grant Grove Village; h 8amnoon & 1-5pm late May-early Sep, shorter off-season hours) In Grant Grove. The following open seasonally: Cedar Grove Visitor Center (% 559-565-3793; Hwy 180, Cedar Grove Village; h 9am-5pm late May-late Sep) In Kings Canyon. Mineral King Ranger Station (% 559-5653768; Mineral King Rd; h 8am-4pm late Maylate Sep) Check the free park newspaper for other visitor services, including wi-fi hot spots. Expensive gas is available at Hume Lake (year-round) and Stony Creek (closed in winter) outside the parks on national-forest land.

88 Getting There & Around From late May to early September, free shuttle buses loop around the Giant Forest, Lodgepole/ Wuksachi and Foothills areas of Sequoia and also Grant Grove in Kings Canyon. Sequoia

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dola rides run. There’s also camping and day hiking around Mammoth Lakes Basin and Reds Meadow, the latter near the 60ft-high basalt columns of Devils Postpile National

Eastern Sierra

moth Lakes Welcome Center & Ranger Station (% 760-924-5500, 888-466-2666; www. visitmammoth.com; h 8am-5pm) has helpful

Vast, empty and majestic, here jagged peaks plummet down into the desert, a dramatic juxtaposition that creates a potent scenery cocktail. Hwy 395 runs the entire length of the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, with turnoffs leading to pine forests, wildflower-strewn meadows, placid lakes, hot springs and glacier-gouged canyons. Hikers, backpackers, mountain bikers, fishers and skiers all find escapes here. At Bodie State Historic Park (% 760-6476445; www.parks.ca.gov/bodie; Rte 270; adult/ child $5/3; h 9am-6pm mid-May–Oct, to 4pm Nov–mid-May), the weathered buildings of a

gold-rush boomtown sit frozen in time on a dusty, windswept plain. To get there, head east for 13 miles (the last three unpaved) on Hwy 270, about 7 miles south of Bridgeport. Snow usually closes the access road in winter and early spring. Further south at Mono Lake (www. monolake.org), unearthly tufa towers rise from the alkaline water like drip sand castles. Off Hwy 395, Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center (% 760-647-3044; www.fs.usda. gov/inyo; h 8am-5pm, shorter spring & fall hours, closed Dec-Mar) has excellent views and edu-

cational exhibits, but the best photo ops are from the mile-long nature trail at the South Tufa Area (adult/child $3/free). From the nearby town of Lee Vining, Hwy 120 heads west into Yosemite National Park via seasonal Tioga Pass. Continuing south on Hwy 395, detour along the scenic 16-mile June Lake Loop or push on to Mammoth Lakes, a popular four-seasons resort guarded by 11,053ft Mammoth Mountain (% 760-934-2571, 24hr snow report 888-766-9778; www.mammoth mountain.com; lift tickets adult/child 7-12yr/youth/ senior 13-18yr/$105/35/82/89), a top-notch

skiing area. The slopes morph into a mountain-bike park in summer, when scenic gon-

Monument (% 760-934-2289; www.nps.gov/ depo; shuttle day pass adult/child $7/4; h late MayOct), formed by volcanic activity. Hot-springs

fans can soak in primitive pools off Benton Crossing Rd or view the geysering water at Hot Creek Geological Site, both off Hwy 395 southeast of town. The in-town Mam-

maps and information. Further south, Hwy 395 descends into the Owens Valley. In frontier-flavored Bishop,

Mountain Light Gallery (% 760-873-7700; www.mountainlight.com; 106 S Main St; h 10am5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) F and the historical Laws Railroad Museum (% 760873-5950; www.lawsmuseum.org; Silver Canyon Rd, off Hwy 6; donation $5; h 10am-4pm early Seplate May, 9:30am-4pm late May-early Sep; c ) are

minor attractions. A gateway for packhorse trips, Bishop accesses the Eastern Sierra’s best fishing and rock climbing. Budget a half-day for the thrilling drive up to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. These gnarled, otherworldly looking trees – the world’s oldest – are found above 10,000ft on the slopes of the White Mountains. The road (closed by snow in winter and early spring) is paved to the visitor center (% 760-873-2500; www.fs.usda.gov/inyo; per person/car $3/6; h 10am-4pm Fri-Mon late May-early Nov) at Schulman Grove, where hik-

ing trails await. From Hwy 395 in Big Pine, take Hwy 168 east for 12 miles, then follow White Mountain Rd uphill for 10 miles. Hwy 395 barrels south to Manzanar National Historic Site (% 760-878-2194; www. nps.gov/manz; 5001 Hwy 395, Indepen dence; h dawn-dusk, visitor center 9am-4:30pm, to 5:30pm Apr-Oct; c ) F, which memorial-

izes the camp where some 10,000 Japanese Americans were unjustly interned during WWII following the attack on Pearl Harbor. Interpretive exhibits and a short film vividly chronicle life at the camp, which today is marked by a short self-guided auto-tour route. Further south in Lone Pine, you’ll finally glimpse Mt Whitney (14,505ft), the highest mountain in the lower 48 states. The heart-stopping, 12-mile scenic drive

Ca li fo rnia East S ieettin G rra e rn gN eTSvada hi eerra r e & A round

Shuttle (% 877-287-4453; www.sequoiashuttle. com; round-trip incl park entry $15; h late Maylate Sep) links the Giant Forest to Three Rivers and Visalia (for onward connections to Amtrak), while Big Trees Transit (% 800-325-7433; www. bigtreestransit.com; round-trip incl park entry fee $15; h late May-early Sep) connects Grant Grove with Fresno’s airport and Amtrak and Greyhound stations; round-trip fares include the park entry fee (reservations required).

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up Whitney Portal Road (closed in winter and early spring) is spectacular. Climbing the peak is hugely popular, but requires a permit (per person $15) awarded via annual lottery. Just south of town, the Eastern Ca li fo rnia East S ileerra e pin e rn NgeSvada i e rra

Sierra Interagency Visitor Center (% 760876-6222; www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo; cnr Hwys 395 & 136; h 8am-5pm) issues wilderness permits,

dispenses outdoor-recreation info and sells books and maps. West of Lone Pine, the bizarrely shaped boulders of the Alabama Hills have enchanted filmmakers of Hollywood Westerns. Peruse vintage memorabilia and movie posters back in town at the Museum of Western Film History (% 760-876-9909; www.museumofwesternfilmhistory.org; 701 S Main St; adult/ child $5/free; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun, longer summer hours).

4 Sleeping The Eastern Sierra is freckled with campgrounds; backcountry camping requires a wilderness permit, available at ranger stations. Bishop, Lone Pine and Bridgeport have the most motels. Mammoth Lakes has a few motels and hotels and dozens of inns, B&Bs, condos and vacation rentals. Reservations are essential everywhere in summer. El Mono Motel MOTEL $ (% 760-647-6310; www.elmonomotel.com; 51 Hwy 395, Lee Vining; r $69-99; h mid-May–Oct; W )

Grab a board game or soak up some mountain sunshine in this friendly flower-ringed place attached to an excellent cafe. In operation since 1927, and often booked solid, each of its 11 simple rooms (a few share bathrooms) is unique, decorated with vibrant and colorful art and fabrics. Whitney Portal Hostel & Hotel HOSTEL, MOTEL $ (% 760-876-0030; www.whitneyportalstore.com; 238 S Main St; dm/d $25/85; aW# ) A popu-

lar launching pad for Whitney trips and for posthike wash-ups (public showers available), its hostel rooms are the cheapest beds in town – reserve them months ahead for July and August. There’s no common space for the carpeted single-sex bunk-bed rooms, though amenities include towels, TVs, in-room kitchenettes and stocked coffeemakers. The majority of the establishment consists of plush and modern motel rooms, and many look out towards Whitney and its neighbors.

Dow Hotel & Dow Villa Motel HOTEL, MOTEL $$ (% 760-876-5521; www.dowvillamotel.com; 310 S Main St; hotel r with/without bath $87/69, motel r $115-173; a i W s# ) John Wayne and

Errol Flynn are among the stars who have stayed at this venerable hotel. Built in 1922, the place has been restored but retains much of its rustic charm. The rooms in the newer motel section have air-con and are more comfortable and bright, but also more generic. Tamarack Lodge LODGE, CABIN $$$ (% 760-934-2442; www.tamaracklodge.com; 163 Twin Lakes Rd; r with/without bath $219/169, cabins from $299; i W c ) S In business since 1924,

this charming year-round resort on Lower Twin Lake has a cozy fireplace lodge, a bar and excellent restaurant, 11 rustic-style rooms and 35 cabins. The cabins range from very simple to simply deluxe, and come with full kitchen, private bathroom, porch and wood-burning stove. Some can sleep up to 10 people. Daily resort fee $20.

5 Eating & Drinking Alabama Hills Cafe DINER $ (111 W Post St; mains $8-14; h 7am-2pm; v )

Everyone’s favorite breakfast joint, the portions here are big, the bread fresh-baked, and the hearty soups and scratch-made fruit pies make lunch an attractive option too. Mammoth Tavern PUB FOOD $$ (www.mammothtavern.com; 587 Old Mammoth Rd; mains $12-35; h 3:30-11pm Tue-Sun) Warm light-

ing, wood-paneled walls rising to a circular ceiling and drop-dead gorgeous views of the snowcapped Sherwin Range mean the big screen TVs here are an unnecessary distraction. A newcomer to the local dining scene, Mammoth Tavern hits the spot with comfort food like shepherd’s pie, oysters, gorgeous salads and fondue garlic turkey meatballs. Worthy libations include tasty house cocktails, local drafts, interesting whiskeys and over two-dozen wines by the glass. Whoa Nellie Deli CALIFORNIAN $$ (% 760-647-1088; www.whoanelliedeli.com; Tioga Gas Mart, Hwys 120 & 395, Lee Vining; mains $1022; h 6:30am-9pm late Apr-Oct; c ) After put-

ting this unexpected gas-station restaurant on the map, its famed chef has moved on to Mammoth, but locals think the food is still damn good. Stop in for delicious fish tacos, wild-buffalo meatloaf and other tasty morsels, and live bands two nights a week.

17 1 Mammoth Brewing Company Tasting Room BREWERY (www.mammothbrewingco.com; 18 Lake Mary Rd; h 10am-9:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat) In

June Lake Brewing MICROBREWERY (www.junelakebrewing.com; 131 S Crawford Ave, June Lake; h 11am-8pm Wed-Mon, to 9pm Fri & Sat; # ) A top new regional draw, June

Lake Brewing’s open tasting room serves 10 drafts, including a ‘SmoKin’ Porter, Deer Beer Brown Ale and some awesome IPAs. Brewers swear the June Lake water makes all the difference. Flights $4 to $6.

Lake Tahoe

Shimmering in myriad blues and greens, Lake Tahoe is the USA’s second-deepest lake. Driving around its spellbinding 72-mile scenic shoreline gives you quite a workout behind the wheel. The north shore is quiet and upscale; the west shore, rugged and oldtimey; the east shore, largely undeveloped; and the south shore, busy with families and flashy casinos. Horned peaks surrounding the lake (elevation 6255ft), which straddles the California–Nevada state line, are four-seasons outdoor playgrounds. Tahoe gets packed in summer, on winter weekends and during holidays, when camping and lodging reservations are essential.

88 Information Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority (% 530541-5255; www.tahoesouth.com; 3066 Lake Tahoe Blvd, South Lake Tahoe; h 9am-5pm) and North Lake Tahoe Visitors’ Bureaus (% 800-468-2463; www.gotahoenorth.com) run multiple visitor information centers.

88 Getting There & Around South Tahoe Airporter (% 775-325-8944, 866898-2463; www.southtahoeexpress.com; adult/ child 4-12yr $30/17) runs several daily shuttles from Nevada’s Reno-Tahoe International Airport to Stateline. North Lake Tahoe Express (% 866-216-5222; www.northlaketahoeexpress. com; per person $49) connects Reno’s airport with Truckee, Northstar, Squaw Valley and north-shore towns.

South Lake Tahoe & West Shore With retro motels and eateries lining busy Hwy 50, South Lake Tahoe gets crowded. Gambling at Stateline’s casino hotels, just across the Nevada border, attracts thousands, as does the world-class ski resort of

Heavenly (% 775-586-7000; www.skiheavenly. com; 4080 Lake Tahoe Blvd, South Lake Tahoe; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-18yr $99/59/89; h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays; c ). In summer a trip up Heavenly’s gondola (adult/child $42/20) guarantees fabulous views of the lake and the Desolation Wilderness, with its raw granite peaks,

glacier- carved valleys and alpine lakes favored by hikers. Get maps, information and wilderness permits (per adult $5 to $10) from the USFS Taylor Creek Visitor Center (% 530-543-2674; www.fs.usda.gov/ ltbmu; Visitor Center Rd, off Hwy 89; h 8am-5pm late May-Sep, to 4pm Oct). It’s 3 miles north of the ‘Y’ intersection of Hwys 50/89, at Tallac Historic Site (www.tahoeheritage.org; Tallac Rd; optional tour adult/child $10/5; h 10am-4pm daily mid-Jun–Sep, Fri & Sat late May–mid-Jun; # ) F, preserving swish early-20th-century

vacation estates. From sandy, swimmable Zephyr Cove

(www.zephyrcove.com; 760 Hwy 50; per car $10; c ) across the Nevada border or the intown Ski Run Marina, Lake Tahoe Cruises (% 800-238-2463; www.zephyrcove.com; adult/ child from $51/15) plies the ‘Big Blue’ year-

round. Paddle under your own power with

Ca li fo rnia LISnformation ak i e rra e Taho N e vada e

a large and central location, this place has a dozen brews on tap (flights $5 to $7) – including special seasonal varieties not found elsewhere. Pick up some IPA 395 or Double Nut Brown to go. Tasty bar food available.

Truckee’s Amtrak depot (% 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 10065 Donner Pass Rd) has daily trains to Reno ($13, 1¼ hours) and Sacramento ($41, 4½ hours), and twice-daily Greyhound (% 800-231-2222; www.greyhound. com) buses to Reno ($16, one hour), Sacramento ($40, 2½ hours) and San Francisco ($41, 5¾ hours). Daily Amtrak buses connect South Lake Tahoe with Sacramento ($34, 2¾ hours). Tahoe Area Rapid Transit (TART; % 530550-1212; www.laketahoetransit.com; single/ day pass $1.75/3.50) operates local buses from Truckee around the north and west shores. South Lake Tahoe is served by BlueGO (% 530541-7149; www.tahoetransportation.org/transit; fare/day pass $2/5) buses. Making limited runs during summer, Emerald Bay Trolley (fare $2) connects BlueGo with TART. If you’re driving, tire chains are often required in winter on I-80, US 50 and other mountain highways, which may close temporarily due to heavy snow. Call % 800-427-7623 to check current road condtions and closures.

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Kayak Tahoe (% 530-544-2011; www.kayaktahoe.com; 3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd; kayak single/ double 1hr $25/35, 1 day $65/85, lessons & tours from $40; h 9am-5pm Jun-Sep). Back on shore, boutique-chic motels include the Alder Inn (% 530-544-4485; www.thealderinn.com; 1072 Ski Run Blvd; r $99-150; Ws ) and the hip Basecamp Hotel (% 530-208-0180; www.basecamp hotels.com; 4143 Cedar Ave; d $109-229, 8-person bunkroom $209-299; W# ) S, which has a

rooftop hot tub, or pitch a tent at lakeside

Fallen Leaf Campground (% info 530-5440426, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation. gov; 2165 Fallen Leaf Lake Rd; tent & RV sites $3335, yurts $84; h mid-May–mid-Oct; # ). Fuel up at vegetarian-friendly Sprouts (www.sproutscafetahoe.com; 3123 Harrison Ave; mains $7-10; h 8am-9pm; vc ) natural-foods cafe, or with

a peanut-butter-topped burger and garlic fries at the Burger Lounge (% 530-542-2010;

www.burgerloungeintahoe.com; 717 Emerald Bay Rd; dishes $4-10; h 10am-8pm daily Jun-Sep, 11am7pm Wed-Sun Oct-May; c ).

Hwy 89 threads northwest along the thickly forested west shore to Emerald Bay State Park (% 530-541-6498; www.parks. ca.gov; per car $10; h late May-Sep), where gran-

ite cliffs and pine trees frame a sparkling fjordlike inlet. A 1-mile trail leads steeply downhill to Vikingsholm Castle (tour adult/ child $10/8; h 11am-4pm late May-Sep), a 1920s Scandinavian-style mansion. From there, the Rubicon Trail ribbons 4.5 miles north along the lakeshore past petite coves to DL Bliss State Park (% 530-525-7277; www.parks. ca.gov; per car $10; h late May-Sep; c ), offering sandy beaches. Further north, Tahoma Meadows B&B Cottages (% 866-525-1553, 530-525-1553; www.tahomameadows.com; 6821 W Lake Blvd, Tahoma; cottages $99-389; W c # )

rents darling country cabins.

North & East Shores A busy commercial hub, Tahoe City is great for grabbing food and supplies and renting outdoor-sports gear. It’s not far from Squaw

Valley USA (% 530-452-4331; www.squaw.com; 1960 Squaw Valley Rd, off Hwy 89, Olympic Valley; adult/child under 13yr/youth 13-22yr $114/66/94; c ), a megasized ski resort that hosted the

1960 Winter Olympics. Après-ski crowds gather at woodsy Bridgetender Tavern & Grill (www.tahoebridgetender.com; 65 W Lake Blvd; h 11am-11pm, to midnight Fri & Sat) back in

town. In the morning, gobble eggs Benedict with house-smoked salmon at down-home Fire Sign Cafe (www.firesigncafe.com; 1785 W Lake Blvd; mains $7-13; h 7am-3pm; vc ), 2

miles further south. In summer, swim or kayak at Tahoe Vista or Kings Beach. Overnight at Cedar

Glen Lodge (% 530-546-4281; www.tahoecedar glen.com; 6589 N Lake Blvd; r/ste/cottages $139350; i W s c # ), where rustic-themed

cottages and rooms have kitchenettes, or well-kept, compact Hostel Tahoe (% 530-

546-3266; www.hosteltahoe.com; 8931 N Lake Blvd; dm $35, d/q $70/85, all incl tax; i W ) S. East of

Kings Beach’s casual lakeside eateries, Hwy 28 barrels into Nevada. Catch a live-music show at Crystal Bay Club Casino (% 775833-6333; www.crystalbaycasino.com; 14 Hwy 28), but for more happening bars and bistros, drive further to Incline Village. With pristine beaches, lakes and miles of multiuse trails, Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park (www.parks.nv.gov; per car $7-12) is the east shore’s biggest draw. Summer crowds splash in the turquoise waters of Sand Harbor. The 13-mile Flume Trail, a mountain biker’s holy grail, ends further south at Spooner Lake. Back in Incline Village, Flume Trail Bikes (% 775-298-2501; http://flumetrailtahoe.com; 1115 Tunnel Creek Rd, Incline Village; mountain-bike rental per day $35-85, shuttle $15) offers bicycle

rentals and shuttles.

Truckee & Around North of Lake Tahoe off I-80, Truckee is not in fact a truck stop but a thriving mountain town, with coffee shops, trendy boutiques and dining in downtown’s historical district. Ski bums have several resorts to pick from, including glam Northstar California (% 530-562-1010; www.northstarcalifornia.com; 5001 Northstar Dr, off Hwy 267, Truckee; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-22yr $116/69/96; h 8:30am-4pm; c ); kid-friendly Sugar Bowl (% 530-4269000; www.sugarbowl.com; 629 Sugar Bowl Rd, off Donner Pass Rd, Norden; adult/child 6-12yr/youth 13-22yr $82/30/70; h 9am-4pm; c ), cofounded by Walt Disney; and Royal Gorge (% 530426-3871; www.royalgorge.com; 9411 Pahatsi Rd, off I-80 exit Soda Springs/Norden, Soda Springs; adult/youth 13-22yr $29/22; h 9am-5pm during snow season; c# ), paradise for cross-country

skiers.

17 3

West of Hwy 89, Donner Summit is where the infamous Donner Party became trapped during the fierce winter of 1846–47. Fewer than half survived – some by cannibalizing their dead friends. The grisly tale is chronicled at the museum inside Donner Memo-

and paddlers.

Cedar House Sport Hotel (% 866-582-5655, 530-582-5655; www.cedarhousesporthotel.com; 10918 Brockway Rd; r $180-295; iW# ) S of-

fers stylish boutique rooms and an outstanding restaurant. Down pints of Donner Party Porter at Fifty Fifty Brewing Co (www.fiftyfif-

tybrewing.com; 11197 Brockway Rd; h 11:30am-9am Sun-Thu, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat).

Ca li fo rnia LG S ak ieettin rra e Taho gN eT vada hee r e & A round

rial State Park (% 530-582-7892; www.parks. ca.gov; Donner Pass Rd; per car $8; h museum 10am-5pm, closed Tue & Wed Sep-May; c ), which offers camping (% 530-582-7894, reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $35; h late May-late Sep; c ). Nearby Donner Lake is popular with swimmers

On the outskirts of Truckee, green-certified

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Pacific Northwest Includes 

Washington..................178 Seattle..........................179 Olympic Peninsula.......192 San Juan Islands......... 196 North Cascades.......... 198 Northeastern Washington.................200 Oregon........................205 Portland......................205 Willamette Valley.........216 Oregon Cascades.......220 Oregon Coast.............. 224

Why Go?

As much a state of mind as a geographical region, the northwest corner of the US is a land of subcultures and new trends, where evergreen trees frame snow-dusted volcanoes, and inspired ideas scribbled on the back of napkins become tomorrow’s start-ups. You can’t peel off the history in layers here, but you can gaze wistfully into the future in fast-moving, innovative cities such as Seattle and Portland, which are sprinkled with food carts, streetcars, microbreweries, green belts, coffee connoisseurs and weird urban sculpture. Ever since the days of the Oregon Trail, the Northwest has had a hypnotic lure for risk takers and dreamers, and the metaphoric carrot still dangles. There’s the air, so clean they ought to bottle it; the trees, older than many of Rome’s Renaissance palaces; and the end-of-the-continent coastline, holding back the force of the world’s largest ocean. Cowboys take note: it doesn’t get much more ‘wild’ or ‘west’ than this.

Best Places to Eat ¨¨Sitka & Spruce (p187) ¨¨Toulouse Petit (p187) ¨¨Saffron Mediterranean

Kitchen (p204) ¨¨Andina (p212) ¨¨Chow (p223)

Best Places to Stay ¨¨Ace Hotel (p185) ¨¨Davenport Hotel (p201) ¨¨Kennedy School (p210) ¨¨Timberline Lodge (p220) ¨¨Moore Hotel (p185)

When to Go Seattle °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm

40/104

16/400

30/86

13/320

20/68

9/240

10/50

6/160 3/80

0/32 -10/14

0 J

Jan–Mar Most reliable snow cover for skiing in the Cascades and beyond.

May Festival season: Portland Rose, International Film Festival and Oregon Shakespeare Festival.

Jul–Sep The best hiking months: between the spring snowmelt and the first fall flurries.

175

History

Local Culture The stereotypical image of a Pacific Northwesterner is a casually dressed latte-sipping urbanite who drives a Prius, votes Democrat and walks around with an unwavering diet of Nirvana-derived indie rock programmed into their iPod. But, as with most fleeting

THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST IN… Four Days

Hit the ground running in Seattle to see the main sights, including Pike Place Market and the Seattle Center. On day three, head down to Portland, where you can do like the locals do and cycle to bars, cafes, food carts and shops.

One Week

Add a couple highlights such as Mt Rainier, Olympic National Park, the Columbia River Gorge or Mt Hood. Or explore the spectacular Oregon Coast (try the Cannon Beach area) or the historic seaport of Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula.

Two Weeks

Crater Lake is unforgettable, and can be combined with a trip to Ashland and its Shakespeare Festival. Don’t miss the ethereal San Juan Islands up near the watery border with Canada, or Bend, the region’s biggest outdoor draw. If you like wine, Washington’s Walla Walla is your mecca, while the Willamette Valley is Oregon’s Pinot Noir paradise.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t H I S T O R Y

Native American societies, including the Chinook and the Salish, had long-established coastal communities by the time Europeans arrived in the Pacific Northwest in the 18th century. Inland, on the arid plateaus between the Cascades and the Rocky Mountains, the Spokane, Nez Percé and other tribes thrived on seasonal migration between river valleys and temperate uplands. Three hundred years after Columbus landed in the New World, Spanish and British explorers began probing the northern Pacific coast, seeking the fabled Northwest Passage. In 1792 Captain George Vancouver was the first explorer to sail the waters of Puget Sound, claiming British sovereignty over the entire region. At the same time, an American, Captain Robert Gray, found the mouth of the Columbia River. In 1805 the explorers Lewis and Clark crossed the Rockies and made their way down the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean, extending the US claim on the territory. In 1824 the British Hudson’s Bay Company established Fort Vancouver in Washington as headquarters for the Columbia region. This opened the door to waves of settlers, but had a devastating impact on the indigenous cultures, which were assailed by European diseases and alcohol. In 1843 settlers at Champoeg, on the Willamette River south of Portland, voted to organize a provisional government independent of the Hudson’s Bay Company, thereby casting their lot with the US, which formally acquired the territory from the British by treaty in 1846. Over the next decade, some

53,000 settlers came to the Northwest via the 2000-mile Oregon Trail. Arrival of the railroads set the region’s future. Agriculture and lumber became the pillars of the economy until 1914, when WWI and the opening of the Panama Canal brought increased trade to Pacific ports. Shipyards opened along Puget Sound, and the Boeing aircraft company set up shop near Seattle. Big dam projects in the 1930s and ‘40s provided cheap hydroelectricity and irrigation. WWII offered another boost for aircraft manufacturing and shipbuilding, and agriculture continued to thrive. In the postwar period, Washington’s population, especially around Puget Sound, grew to twice that of Oregon. In the 1980s and ‘90s, the economic emphasis shifted with the rise of the high-tech industry, embodied by Microsoft in Seattle and Intel in Portland. Hydroelectricity production and massive irrigation projects along the Columbia have threatened the river’s ecosystem in the past few decades, and logging has also left its scars. But the region has reinvigorated its eco-credentials by attracting some of the country’s most environmentally conscious companies, and its major cities are among the greenest in the US. It stands at the forefront of US efforts to tackle climate issues.

5 Walking the

green and serene neighborhoods of Portland (p205), energized by beer, coffee and food-cart treats.

6 Witnessing the

sumptuous reds and whites in the wine regions around Walla Walla (p204).

e Ra nge

Casc ad

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# Seaside \ # Cannon Beach \

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# ÷

Mt St Helens Mt Adams (12,276ft) (8363ft)

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# \

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Medford # Jacksonville \ Cave \ # # Ashland \ Brookings ÷ Junction # R Mt Ashland Oregon Caves (7533ft) National 199 Û ] Monument # Crescent City ] 5 & Preserve Ó U V # \

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7 Going mountain biking, rock climbing or skiing in the outdoor mecca of Bend (p221).

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impossibly deep-blue waters and scenic panoramas of Crater Lake National Park (p223).

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Bremerton

s ca de

greatest outdoor show in the Pacific Northwest in Seattle’s theatrical Pike Place Market (p179).

Quinault Indian Reservation

4 Watching the

Olympic 3 National # Park

older than Europe’s Renaissance castles in Washington’s Olympic National Park (p192).

Port Str Renfrew # Sidney \ # ait \ of J ä 14 Fidalgo \ uab Newhalem Cape Flattery \ Sooke # nd # ^ # Island Anacortes # e Fu \ Makah Indian Neah ca Victoria Skagit River Whidbey Reservation Bay Port Angeles Island V 5 Ó U # \ 101 Port \ # Û ] # Townsend Forks \ Lake Puget # ] Everett # \ Crescent R Mt Olympus Sound Mukilteo (7965ft)

3 Admiring trees

North Cascades

National San Juan Mt Baker Park Islands ] (10,781ft)R # # ÷ 1 # Bellingham # \

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t N orthw e st H i g h l i g hts

gorgeous Oregon Coast (p224), from scenic Astoria to balmy Port Orford.

1 þ È

99 ä b

a gi or

2 Exploring the

1 È þ

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Kamloops

Vancouver (130mi) ^ #

kayaking around the quieter corners of the San Juan Islands (p196).

# \

Parksville # Nanaimo \

4 ä b

1 Cycling and

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Pacific Northwest Highlights

44 44 4 44 44 4

176

Klamath Falls

CALIFORNIA

ß ` 140

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\ Spokane Newport # Indian Reservation

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100 km 50 miles

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Lake Pend Oreille

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Cœur d'Alene Lake

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# Toppenish \ Yakama Indian # Kennewick Walla \ # ] Walla Reservation Benton City

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Kimberley

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# \

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Paci fi c N o rth w e s t GE Washin G eT ttin TING gg ton TH hE eR rE e & AR ro OU uN nD d

regional generalizations, the reality is far more complex. Noted for their sophisticated cafe culture and copious microbrew pubs, the urban hubs of Seattle and Portland are the Northwest’s most emblematic cities. But head east into the region’s drier and less verdant interior, and the cultural affiliations become increasingly more traditional. Here, strung along the Columbia River Valley or nestled amid the arid steppes of southeastern Washington, small towns host raucous rodeos, tourist centers promote cowboy culture, and a cup of coffee is served ‘straight up’ with none of the chai lattes and frappés that are par for the course in the bigger cities. In contrast to the USA’s hardworking eastern seaboard, life out west is more casual and less frenetic. Ideally, Westerners would rather work to live than live to work. Indeed, with so much winter rain, the citizens of the Pacific Northwest will dredge up any excuse to shun the nine-to-five treadmill and hit the great outdoors a couple of hours (or even days) early. Witness the scene in late May and early June, when the first bright days of summer prompt a mass exodus of hikers and cyclists making enthusiastically for the national parks and wilderness areas for which the region is justly famous. Creativity is another strong Northwestern trait, be it in redefining the course of modern rock music or reconfiguring the latest Microsoft computer program. The Pacific Northwest has redefined itself internationally in recent decades through celebrated TV shows (Frasier and Portlandia, for example), iconic global personalities (Bill Gates) and a groundbreaking music scene that has spawned everything from grunge rock to riot grrrl feminism. Tolerance is widespread in Pacific Northwestern society, from gay rights to physician-assisted suicide to recreational drugs (recreational marijuana use is now legal in both Washington and Oregon). Commonly voting Democrat in presidential elections, the population has also enthusiastically embraced the push for ‘greener’ lifestyles in such forms as extensive recycling programs, restaurants utilizing ‘local’ ingredients and biodiesel whale-watching tours. An early exponent of ecofriendly practices, former Seattle mayor Greg Nickels has become a leading spokesperson on climate change, while progressive Portland regularly features at the top of America’s most sustainable and bike-friendly cities.

88 Getting There & Around AIR Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (p190), aka ‘Sea-Tac,’ and Portland International Airport (p215) are the main airports for the region, serving many North American, and several international, destinations. BOAT Washington State Ferries (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ ferries) links Seattle with Bainbridge and Vashon Islands. Other WSF routes cross from Whidbey Island to Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula, and from Anacortes through the San Juan Islands to Sidney, BC. Victoria Clipper (www. clippervacations.com) operates services from Seattle to Victoria, BC; ferries to Victoria also operate from Port Angeles. Alaska Marine Highway ferries (www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs) go from Bellingham, WA, to Alaska. BUS Greyhound (www.greyhound.com) provides service along the I-5 corridor from Bellingham in northern Washington down to Medford in southern Oregon, with connecting services across the US and Canada. East–west routes fan out toward Spokane, Yakima, the Tri-Cities (Kennewick, Pasco and Richland in Washington), Walla Walla and Pullman in Washington, and Hood River and Pendleton in Oregon. Private bus companies service most of the smaller towns and cities across the region, often connecting to Greyhound or Amtrak. CAR Driving your own vehicle is by far the most convenient way of touring the Pacific Northwest. Major and minor rental agencies are commonplace throughout the region. I-5 is the major north– south artery. In Washington I-90 heads east from Seattle to Spokane and into Idaho. In Oregon I-84 branches east from Portland along the Columbia River Gorge to link up with Boise in Idaho. TRAIN Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) runs train services north (to Vancouver, Canada) and south (to California), linking Seattle, Portland and other major urban centers with the Cascades and Coast Starlight routes. The famous Empire Builder heads east to Chicago from Seattle and Portland (joining up in Spokane).

WASHINGTON Divided in two by the spinal Cascade Mountains, Washington isn’t so much a land of contrasts as a land of polar opposites. Centered on Seattle, the western coastal zone is

17 9

wet, urban, liberal and famous for its fecund evergreen forests; splayed to the east between the less celebrated cities of Spokane and Yakima, the inland plains are arid, rural, conservative and covered by mile after mile of scrublike steppe. Of the two halves it’s the west that harbors most of the quintessential Washington sights, while the more remote, less heralded east is understated and full of surprises.

Combine the brains of Portland, OR, with the beauty of Vancouver, BC, and you’ll get something approximating Seattle. It’s hard to believe that the Pacific Northwest’s largest metropolis was considered a ‘secondary’ US city until the 1980s, when a combination of bold innovation and unabashed individualism turned it into one of the dot-com era’s biggest trendsetters, spearheaded by an unlikely alliance of coffee-sipping computer geeks and navel-gazing musicians. Reinvention is the buzzword these days in a city where grunge belongs to the history books and Starbucks is just one in a cavalcade of precocious indie coffee providers eking out their market position. Surprisingly elegant in places and coolly edgy in others, Seattle is notable for its strong neighborhoods, top-rated university, monstrous traffic jams and proactive city mayors who harbor green credentials. Although it has fermented its own pop culture in recent times, it has yet to create an urban mythology befitting Paris or New York, but it does have ‘the Mountain.’ Better known as Rainier to its friends, Seattle’s unifying symbol is a 14,411ft mass of rock and ice, which acts as a perennial reminder to the city’s huddled masses that raw wilderness, and potential volcanic catastrophe, are never far away.

1 Sights 1 Downtown oPike Place Market

MARKET

(www.pikeplacemarket.org; 85 Pike St; h 9am6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun; d Westlake) S Take

a bunch of small-time businesses and sprinkle them liberally around a waterside strip amid crowds of old-school bohemians, newwave restaurateurs, tree-huggers, students, artists, buskers and tourists, and the result: Pike Place Market, a cavalcade of noise,

Nickname Evergreen State Population 7 million Area 71,362 sq miles Capital city Olympia (population 48,340) Other cities Seattle (population 653,000), Spokane (population 210,800), Yakima (population 93,300), Bellingham (population 83,000), Walla Walla (population 32,000) Sales tax 6.5% Birthplace of Singer and actor Bing Crosby (1903–77), guitarist Jimi Hendrix (1942–70), computer geek Bill Gates (b 1955), political commentator Glen Beck (b 1964), musical icon Kurt Cobain (1967–94) Home of Mt St Helens, Microsoft, Starbucks, Amazon.com, Evergreen State College Politics Democrat governors since 1985 Famous for Grunge rock, coffee, Grey’s Anatomy, Twilight, volcanoes, apples, wine, precipitation State vegetable Walla Walla sweet onion Driving distances Seattle to Portland, 174 miles; Spokane to Port Angeles, 365 miles

smells, personalities, banter and urban theater. You’ll find produce stalls, vintage shops, handmade crafts, souvenir kitsch and funky eateries. In operation since 1907, Pike Place is a wonderfully ‘local’ experience that highlights the city for what it really is: all-embracing, eclectic and proudly singular. Seattle Art Museum MUSEUM (SAM; % 206-654-3210; www.seattleartmuseum. org; 1300 1st Ave; adult/student $19.50/12.50; h 10am-5pm Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu; d University St) Over the last decade, SAM has added

over 100,000 sq ft to its gallery space and acquired about $1 billion worth of new art, including works by Zurbarán and Murillo. The museum is known for its extensive Native American artifacts and work from the local Northwest School, in particular by

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S Washin iegatt htsl eg ton

Seattle

WASHINGTON FACTS

Roy St

Br oa d

te rn

Av e

ÿ # Av 14 e

Av e

2n d

Al Clipper as ka Pier 67 nW ay

4f # Victoria

El lio

1s t

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BELLTOWN

Av e

W all St

Fremont (2mi); Green Lake (3mi); Ballard (5mi)

Mercer St

ÿ #

# 39 ý

# 35 û

# 15 ÿ

3 Av rd e

5t h

ÿ #

7t h

Av e

# 28 ú

6t h Av Av e e 17

DENNY TRIANGLE

8t h

John St Denny Park

& 9th

Terry & Thomas

t Car on Stree ake Uni

& 7th

¤ # Westlake

Denny Way

John St

Ya M le in Av or Bo e Av re e n Av 34 Te e û # rr yA ve 9t h Av e

Thomas St

¢ #

Seattle Visitor Center Westlake & Concierge ¤ # Hub Services Westlake Center £ # Westlake

ï #

iv Ol

ay eW

# 36 ü

# ú

5 Ó V U

E Howell St

y Wa

Lake Union (0.3mi); U District (3.5mi); University of Washington (3.5mi)

Bellevue Ave Melrose Ave

S ty rsi ive n U

Union St

E Pike St

E Pine St

CAPITOL HILL

# Pike/Pine ¤

d Ma

iso

E Union St

# ý

þ #

# û

Lincoln 3 Reservoir E Olive St Cascina Spinasse (0.1 mi) E Pine St

E Howell St

Capitol Hill ¤ # E Denny Way

E John St

E Thomas St

66 66 66

E Harrison St

E Republican St

500 m 0.25 miles

E Mercer St

0 e # 0

lsto B oy

r Bo

ÿ # 20

Av e

¤ #

¤ # Westlake

# Westlake ¤ & Thomas

Harrison St

Republican St

Northwest ¤ # Outdoor Lake Union Center (1mi) Park # Terry & # ¤ Westlake ¤ Mercer & Mercer EASTLAKE

Eastlake Ave E

Pier 69

÷ #

4t h

Vi ne

Br oa d

Warren Ave N

2nd Ave N

Boylston Ave

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4th Ave N

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Seattle æ Top Sights 1 Pike Place Market ................................... C5

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S Washin iegatt htsl eg ton

æ Sights 2 Chihuly Garden and Glass ..................... A2 3 Columbia Center......................................E6 4 EMP Museum .......................................... B2 5 Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park.......................................E8 6 Olympic Sculpture Park......................... A3 7 Pacific Science Center ........................... A3 8 Seattle Aquarium.................................... C6 9 Seattle Art Museum ............................... D6 10 Smith Tower .............................................E7 11 Space Needle .......................................... A2 12 Wing Luke Museum of the Asian Pacific American Experience ..............F8 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 13 SBR Seattle Bicycle Rental & Tours ..................................................... C6 ÿ Sleeping 14 Ace Hotel.................................................. B4 15 Belltown Inn............................................. B4 16 City Hostel Seattle.................................. B4 17 Hotel Five ................................................. C3 18 Inn at the Market..................................... C5 19 Maxwell Hotel ........................................... A1 20 Moore Hotel............................................. C4 21 Pensione Nichols .................................... C5

Mark Tobey (1890–1976). Modern American art is also well represented. Olympic Sculpture Park PARK, SCULPTURE (2901 Western Ave; h sunrise-sunset; g 13) F

Terraced over train tracks, in an unlikely oasis between the water and busy Western Ave, is the 8.5-acre, $85-million Olympic Sculpture Park. Worth a visit just for its views of the Olympic Mountains over Elliott Bay, the park has various large contemporary sculptures and is popular with joggers and dog-walkers.

1 International District

ú Eating 22 Crumpet Shop .........................................C5 23 Green Leaf................................................ F8 24 Le Pichet...................................................C5 25 Pink Door ..................................................C5 26 Piroshky Piroshky....................................C5 27 Salumi ....................................................... E8 28 Serious Pie ...............................................C4 29 Sitka & Spruce ......................................... E4 û Drinking & Nightlife 30 Caffè Umbria............................................D8 31 Elysian Brewing Company .....................G4 32 Panama Hotel Tea & Coffee House ...... F7 33 Pike Pub & Brewery ................................C5 34 Re-Bar....................................................... E3 35 Shorty's ....................................................B4 36 Starbucks Reserve Roastery & Tasting Room........................................ E4 37 Zeitgeist.................................................... E8 ý Entertainment 38 A Contemporary Theatre .......................D5 39 Crocodile ..................................................B4 40 Intiman Theater Company..................... A1 41 Nesholm Family Lecture Hall................. A1 42 Neumo's ...................................................G4 þ Shopping 43 DeLaurenti's.............................................C5 44 Elliott Bay Book Company .....................G4

settlement in the 1880s and Japanese internment camps in WWII. There are also art exhibitions and a preserved immigrant apartment. Guided tours are available; the first Thursday of the month is free, when hours are 10am to 8pm.

1 Seattle Center The remnants of the futuristic 1962 World’s Fair hosted by Seattle and subtitled ‘Century 21 Exposition’ are now into their sixth decade at the Seattle Center (% 206-684-8582; www.seattlecenter.com; 400 Broad St; d monorail). And what remnants! The fair was a

For ‘international’, read Asian. East of Pioneer Sq, the shops and businesses are primarily Chinese, Vietnamese and Filipino.

major success, attracting 10 million visitors, running a profit (rare for the time) and inspiring a skin-crawlingly kitsch Elvis movie, It Happened at the World’s Fair (1963).

Wing Luke Museum of the Asian Pacific American Experience MUSEUM (% 206-623-5124; www.wingluke.org; 719 S King St; adult/child $15/10; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun; j Chinatown/International District E) This museum

Space Needle LANDMARK (% 206-905-2100; www.spaceneedle.com; 400 Broad St; adult/child $21/13; h 8am-midnight JunAug, reduced hours Sep-May; m Seattle Center)

examines Asian Pacific American culture, focusing on prickly issues such as Chinese

This streamlined, modern-before-its-time tower built for the 1962 World’s Fair has been the city’s defining symbol for more than 50

183

years. The needle anchors the complex now called Seattle Center and draws over one million annual visitors to its flying-saucerlike observation deck and pricey rotating restaurant. Purchase a combination ticket with Chihuly Garden and Glass for $36. EMP Museum MUSEUM (% 206-770-2700; www.empmuseum.org; 325 5th Ave N; adult/child $25/16; h 10am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 5pm Sep-May; m Seattle Center) This museum, a

Chihuly Garden and Glass MUSEUM (% 206-753-4940; www.chihulygardenandglass. com; 305 Harrison St; adult/child $25/16; h 8am9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; m Seattle Center)

Opened in 2012 and reinforcing Seattle’s position as the Venice of North America, this exquisite exposition of the life and work of dynamic local glass sculptor Dale Chihuly might just take your breath away. It shows off Chihuly’s colorfully creative designs within an airy glass atrium and landscaped gardens. Hours vary throughout the year; check the website.

1 Capitol Hill Millionaires mingle with goth musicians in Capitol Hill, a well-heeled but liberal neighborhood rightly renowned for its fringe theater, alternative music scene, indie coffee bars, and vital gay and lesbian culture. You can take your dog for a herbal bath here, go shopping for ethnic crafts on Broadway, or blend in (or not) with the young punks and old hippies on the eclectic Pike–Pine corridor. The junction of Broadway and E John St is the nexus from which to navigate the quarter’s various restaurants, brewpubs, boutiques and dingy, but not dirty, dive bars.

1 Fremont Fremont pitches young hipsters among old hippies in an unlikely urban alliance, and vies with Capitol Hill as Seattle’s most irreverent neighborhood. It’s full of junk shops, urban sculpture, and a healthy sense of its own ludicrousness.

Columbia Center (% 206-386-5564; www.skyviewobservatory.com; 701 5th Ave; adult/student $15/9; h 9am-10pm) Everyone makes a rush for the iconic Space Needle, but it’s not the tallest of Seattle’s glittering viewpoints. That honor goes to the sleek, tinted-windowed Columbia Center (1985); at 943ft high, it’s the loftiest building in the Pacific Northwest. From the plush observation deck on the 73rd floor you can look down on ferries, cars, islands – even the Space Needle! Waiting for the Interurban MONUMENT (cnr N 34th St & Fremont Ave N) Seattle’s most

popular piece of public art, Waiting for the Interurban, is cast in recycled aluminum and depicts six people waiting for a train that never comes. Occasionally locals will lovingly decorate the people in outfits corresponding to a special event, the weather, someone’s birthday, a Mariners win – whatever. Check out the human face on the dog; it’s Armen Stepanian, once Fremont’s honorary mayor, who made the mistake of objecting to the sculpture. Fremont Troll SCULPTURE (cnr N 36th St & Troll Ave) The Fremont Troll

lurks beneath the north end of the Aurora Bridge at N 36th St. The troll’s creators – artists Steve Badanes, Will Martin, Donna Walter and Ross Whitehead – won a competition sponsored by the Fremont Arts Council in 1990. The 18ft-high cement figure snacking on a Volkswagen Beetle is now a favorite place for late-night beer drinking.

1 The U District U-dub, a neighborhood of young, studious out-of-towners, places the beautiful, leafy University of Washington campus next to the shabbier ‘Ave,’ an eclectic strip of cheap boutiques, dive bars and ethnic restaurants. Burke Museum MUSEUM (% 206-543-5590; www.burkemuseum.org; cnr 17th Ave NE & NE 45th St; admission $10; h 10am-5pm; g 70) One of the Northwest’s best natural his-

tory museums, the Burke boasts an impressive stash of fossils, including a 20,000-yearold sabre-toothed cat. Equally compelling is the focus on over a dozen different Native

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S Washin iegatt htsl eg ton

marriage of super modern architecture and rock-and-roll history, was founded by Microsoft co-creator Paul Allen. It was inspired by the music of Seattle-born guitar icon, Jimi Hendrix, though today its collection has morphed to include pop-culture and science-fiction history. Buy discounted tickets online.

HIGHER THAN THE SPACE NEEDLE

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PIONEER SQUARE

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Pioneer Sq is Seattle’s oldest quarter, which isn’t saying much if you’re visiting from Rome or London. Most of the buildings here date from just after the 1889 fire (a devastating inferno that destroyed 25 city blocks, including the entire central business district), and are referred to architecturally as Richardsonian Romanesque, a redbrick revivalist style in vogue at the time. In the early years, the neighborhood’s boom-bust fortunes turned its arterial road, Yesler Way, into the original ‘skid row’ – an allusion to the skidding logs that were pulled downhill to Henry Yesler’s pier-side mill. When the timber industry fell on hard times, the road became a haven for the homeless, and its name subsequently became a byword for poverty-stricken urban enclaves countrywide. Thanks to a concerted public effort, the neighborhood avoided being laid to waste by the demolition squads in the 1960s and is now protected in the Pioneer Sq–Skid Rd Historic District. The quarter today mixes the historic with the seedy while harboring art galleries, cafes and nightlife. Its most iconic building is the 42-story Smith Tower (% 206-622-4004; www.smithtower.com; 506 2nd Ave), completed in 1914 and, until 1931, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Other highlights include the 1909 Pergola (cnr Yesler Way & James St), a decorative iron shelter reminiscent of a Parisian Metro station, and Occidental Park (btwn S Washington & S Main Sts; j Pioneer Sq), containing totem poles carved by Chinook artist Duane Pasco. The Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park (% 206-553-3000; www.nps. gov/klse; 319 2nd Ave S; h 9am-5pm; d International District/Chinatown) F is a city-based visitor-center outpost. It shows off exhibits, photos and news clippings from the 1897 Klondike gold rush, when a Seattle-on-steroids acted as a fueling depot for prospectors bound for the Yukon in Canada

American cultures. There’s free admission on the first Thursday of the month, when the museum stays open until 8pm.

1 Ballard A former seafaring community with a strong Scandinavian heritage, Ballard still feels like a small town engulfed by a bigger city. Traditionally gritty, no-nonsense and uncommercial, it’s slowly being condo-ized, but remains a good place to down a microbrew or see a live band. Hiram M Chittenden Locks CANAL (3015 NW 54th St; h locks 24hr, ladder & gardens 7am-9pm, visitor center 10am-6pm May-Sep; g 62) Seattle shimmers like an impression-

ist painting on sunny days at the Hiram M Chittenden Locks. Here, the fresh waters of Lake Washington and Lake Union drop 22ft into salt-water Puget Sound. Construction of the canal and locks began in 1911; today 100,000 boats pass through them annually. You can view fish-ladder activity through underwater glass panels, stroll through botanical gardens and visit a small museum.

2 Activities Cycling

A cycling favorite, the 16.5-mile Burke-Gilman Trail winds from Ballard to Log Boom Park in Kenmore on Seattle’s Eastside. There, it connects with the 11-mile Sammamish River Trail, which winds past the Chateau Ste Michelle winery in Woodinville before terminating at Redmond’s Marymoor Park. More cyclists pedal the popular loop around Green Lake, situated just north of Fremont and 5 miles north of the downtown core. From Belltown, the 2.5-mile Elliott Bay Trail runs along the Waterfront to Smith Cove. Get a copy of the Seattle Bicycling Guide Map, published by the City of Seattle’s Transportation Bicycle & Pedestrian Program online (www.seattle.gov/transportation/bikemaps.htm) or at bike shops. For bicycle rentals and tours, try Recycled Cycles (% 206-547-4491; www.recycledcycles.com; 1007 NE Boat St; rental per day $40-50; h 10am8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; g 66), a friendly

U District shop that also rents out chariots and trail-a-bike attachments for kids, or SBR Seattle Bicycle Rental & Tours (% 800-3490343; www.seattlebicyclerentals.com; Pier 58; rental per hour $10-15, per day $45-65; h 11am-7pm Wed-

185 Mon; d University St), which offers reasonable

rates and daily tours (book online). Water Sports

Northwest Outdoor Center KAYAKING (% 206-281-9694; www.nwoc.com; 2100 Westlake Ave N; rental per hour from $15; g 62) On Lake

Union, rents kayaks and offers tours and instruction in sea and white-water kayaking.

T Tours Seattle Free Walking Tours WALKING TOUR (www.seattlefreewalkingtours.org) A nonprofit set

up in 2012 by two world travelers. Choose from a general downtown tour or a Pike Place Market option. Suggested $15 donation. Seattle by Foot WALKING TOUR (% 206-508-7017; www.seattlebyfoot.com; tours $25-35) Offers different tours focusing on the

city’s coffeehouses, pubs, downtown areas or the Fremont neighborhood. Book online for a $5 discount.

z Festivals & Events Seattle International Film Festival FILM (SIFF; www.siff.net) Held in mid-May, the city’s

biggest film festival uses a half dozen cinemas, but also has its own dedicated cinema, in McCaw Hall’s Nesholm Family Lecture Hall (321 Mercer St). Seafair FAIR (www.seafair.com) Huge crowds attend this

festival held on the water in late July/August, with hydroplane races, a torchlight parade, an air show, music and even a Milk Carton Derby (look it up!). Bumbershoot MUSIC, PERFORMING ARTS (www.bumbershoot.com) A major arts and cul-

tural event at Seattle Center on the Labor Day weekend in September, with live music, comedy, theater, visual arts and dance.

4 Sleeping Reserve ahead in summer, when hotels book up and prices tend to skyrocket.

Moore Hotel HOTEL $ (% 206-448-4851; www.moorehotel.com; 1926 2nd Ave; r with private/shared bath from $112/87; W ; d Westlake) Old-world and allegedly haunt-

ed, the central, hip and whimsical Moore offers 119 good-size budget rooms at bargain rates. Two rooms sleep up to eight, and the suites have kitchenettes. The cute cafe serves up great coffee. Reserve in summer. Hotel Hotel HOSTEL $ (% 206-257-4543; www.hotelhotel.co; 3515 Fremont Ave N; dm $29-35, r $79-99; i W ; g 26)

This slick hostel almost feels like a boutique hotel – walls are painted dark earth colors and there are cool retro touches. Dorms are wonderful and spacious, while private rooms have trendy sliding bathroom doors. All boast hardwood floors. A kitchen is available, or eat downstairs in the wood-firedpizza restaurant-bar. City Hostel Seattle HOSTEL $ (% 206-706-3255; www.hostelseattle.com; 2327 2nd Ave; dm/d from $29/79; i W ; d Westlake)

Every awesome room in this well-located, boutique ‘art hostel’ has colorful murals on its walls painted by local artists. There’s also a common room, hot tub, in-house movie theater and all-you-can-eat breakfast.

oAce Hotel

HOTEL $$

(% 206-448-4721; www.acehotel.com; 2423 1st Ave; r with private/shared bath from $219/119; p a W # ; g 13) The original locale of the

trendy Ace Hotel chain, sports minimal decor, sliding barn-door bathrooms and Pendleton wool blankets. Some rooms even come with record players. Continental breakfast is free, but parking costs $26. Pensione Nichols GUESTHOUSE $$ (% 206-441-7125; www.pensionenichols.com; 1923 1st Ave; r from $180; W # ) For a homey stay

right near Pike Place, this cozy guesthouse is hard to beat. Interior rooms are quiet, but still bright with skylights, while deluxe rooms offer street views. Apartment suites

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Seattle is not just on a network of cycling trails. With Venice-like proportions of downtown water, it is also strafed with kayak-friendly marine trails. The Lakes to Locks Water Trail links Lake Sammamish with Lake Washington, Lake Union and – via the Hiram M Chittenden Locks – Puget Sound. For launching sites and maps, check the website of the Washington Water Trails Association (www.wwta.org).

SEATTLE CITY PASS If you’re planning on visiting the Space Needle, Seattle Aquarium, Woodland Park Zoo and Chihuly Garden and Glass (among other sights), consider buying the Seattle City Pass (www.citypass. com/seattle), which will save you nearly 50% on admission costs.

1 86

DISCOVERY PARK

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A former military installation that has been transformed into a wild coastal park, Discovery Park (www.seattle.gov/ parks/environment/discovery.htm; g 33) is a relatively recent addition to the city landscape – it wasn’t officially inaugurated until 1973, and the American military finally left in 2012. Comprising the largest green space in the city, the park’s 534 acres are laced with cliffs, meadows, sand dunes, forest and beaches, all of which provide a welcome breathing space for hemmed-in Seattleites and a vital corridor for wildlife. For a map of the park’s trail and road system, stop by the Discovery Park Environmental Learning Center (% 206-386-4236; 3801 W Government Way; h 8:30am-5pm) near the Government Way entrance. The park is five miles northwest of downtown Seattle in the neighborhood of Magnolia. To get there, catch bus 33 from 3rd Ave & Union St downtown.

sleep four to six and boast full kitchens. There are great water views from the common room, where continental breakfast is served. Maxwell Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (% 206-286-0629; www.themaxwellhotel.com; 300 Roy St; r from $240; pai W s ; g Rapid Ride D-Line) Located in Lower Queen Anne,

the Maxwell’s huge designer-chic lobby welcomes you, while the 139 gorgeously modern rooms offer up hardwood floors and Scandinavian bedding. There’s a small pool, a gym and free bike rentals.

oInn at the Market

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

(% 206-443-3600; www.innatthemarket.com; 86 Pine St; r with/without water view from $385/325; paiWs ; d Westlake) Just a block from

Pike Place Market, this 71-room boutique hotel has elegant, good-size rooms, many with large windows or small balconies. There’s an awesome communal terrace offering views of market activity and Puget Sound. A swimming pool is available at a nearby gym; parking costs $32. Hotel Five BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (% 206-448-0924; www.hotelfiveseattle.com; 2200 5th Ave; r from $285; paW ; g 13) This

trendy hotel mixes retro-’70s furniture with sharp color accents to produce something dazzlingly modern. The ultra comfortable beds are a valid cure for insomnia, while the large reception area invites lingering, especially when they lay out the complimentary cupcakes and coffee in the late afternoon. Day-of or online rates can be a good deal. Belltown Inn HOTEL $$$ (% 206-529-3700; www.belltown-inn.com; 2301 3rd Ave; r from $239; pai W ; d Westlake)

Rooms at this modern, centrally located hotel are modestly sized but very comfortable, and offer good amenities (some have kitchenettes). There’s a roof terrace and free bike rentals. It’s popular with cruises, so reserve in summer.

5 Eating The best budget meals are to be found in Pike Place Market. Take your pick from fresh produce, baked goods, deli items and takeout ethnic foods.

oSalumi

SANDWICHES $

(% 206-621-8772; www.salumicuredmeats.com; 309 3rd Ave S; sandwiches $8.50-11; h 11am1:30pm Mon, to 3:30pm Tue-Fri; d International District/Chinatown) Be ready for a queue out-

side Salumi, well known and loved for its delicious salami and cured-meat sandwiches (grilled lamb, pork shoulder, meatball…). Vegetarians can go for the seasonal veggie offering or eggplant balsamico. Meats and cheeses are also sold by the pound. Green Leaf VIETNAMESE $ (% 206-340-1388; www.greenleaftaste.com; 418 8th Ave S; pho $9, specials $10-12; h 11am-10pm; j Chinatown/International District E) Popular

Green Leaf, located in Chinatown, shoots out rapid-fire dishes from its tiny kitchen to its small, crowded dining room. Choose the traditional pho (beef noodle soup) or go for the excellent rice- or vermicelli-noodle dishes. Also located in Belltown at 2800 1st Ave. Piroshky Piroshky BAKERY $ (www.piroshkybakery.com; 1908 Pike Pl; snacks $3-6; h 8am-6pm; d Westlake) Piroshky

knocks out its delectable sweet and savory Russian pies and pastries in a space about the size of a walk-in closet. Get the savory smoked-salmon pâté or the sauerkraut with cabbage and onion, and follow it with the chocolate-cream hazelnut roll or a fresh rhubarb piroshki.

1 87 Crumpet Shop BAKERY $ (% 206-682-1598; www.thecrumpetshop.com; 1503 1st Ave; crumpets $3-6; h 7am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri-Sun; d Westlake) The treasured Brit-

ish crumpet has been given a distinct American twist with lavish toppings such as pesto, wild salmon or lemon curd at this casual Pike Place Market eatery, family-owned and operated for almost 40 years. Organic ingredients make it very Pacific Northwest, though there’s marmite for homesick Brits. CAJUN, CREOLE $$

(% 206-432-9069; www.toulousepetit.com; 601 Queen Anne Ave N; mains $13-17; h 8am-2am; g 13)

Hailed for its generous happy hours, cheap brunches and rollicking atmosphere, this perennially busy Queen Anne eatery has something for everyone. The menu is large and varied, offering choices such as blackened ribeye steak, freshwater gulf prawns and housemade gnocchi with artichoke hearts. Revel ASIAN $$ (% 206-547-2040; www.revelseattle.com; 403 N 36th St; small plates $12-16; h 11am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-10pm Sat & Sun) Walk

into this slick, modern restaurant and you’ll notice this isn’t your typical Asian eatery. The menu is small but delicious, from the short-rib dumplings to the lemongrass beef with cilantro noodles. Dishes are small-ish and meant to be shared; down them with a creative cocktail or two. Serious Pie PIZZA $$ (% 206-838-7388; www.tomdouglas.com; 316 Virginia St; pizzas $16-18; h 11am-11pm; d Westlake)

In the crowded confines of Serious Pie you can enjoy beautifully blistered pizza bases topped with such unconventional ingredi-

Jack’s BBQ BARBECUE $$ (% 206-467-4038; www.jacksbbq.com; 3924 Airport Way S; mains $12-23; h 11am-9pm Tue-Sat)

Some of Seattle’s best BBQ can be had at this casual, family-friendly joint, located south towards the airport. Meats are smoked slowly over hardwoods and come out tender and delicious – the ribs are a mainstay, and on Tuesdays they serve up a giant beef rib (reserve ahead). Pink Door ITALIAN $$ (% 206-443-3241; www.thepinkdoor.net; 1919 Post Alley; mains $18-27; h 11:30am-4pm & 5-11pm MonThu, 11.30am-midnight Fri & Sat, 4-10pm Sun) Find-

ing this upscale Italian restaurant is an adventure in itself – look for the unsigned pink door down a busy alleyway near Pike Place Market. Pastas are the specialty here, with a few seafood and meat options, and there’s an emphasis on organic, seasonal ingredients. Le Pichet FRENCH $$ (% 206-256-1499; www.lepichetseattle.com; 1933 1st Ave; mains $11-25; h 8am-midnight; d Westlake) Say bonjour to Le Pichet, just up from

Pike Place Market, a cute and very French bistro with pâtés, cheeses, wine, chocolat and a refined Parisian feel. Dinner means delicacies such as wild boar shoulder or grilled rabbit sausage. Sitka & Spruce MODERN AMERICAN $$$ (% 206-324-0662; www.sitkaandspruce.com; 1531 Melrose Ave; small plates $8-33; h 11:30am2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-11pm Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Sun; g 10) Located in a

SEATTLE FOR CHILDREN Make a beeline for the Seattle Center, preferably on the monorail, where food carts, street entertainers, fountains and green spaces will make the day fly by. One essential stop is the Pacific Science Center (% 206-443-2001; www.pacificsciencecenter.org; 200 2nd Ave N; adult/child exhibits only $19.50/14.50, with Imax $23.50/18.50; h 10am-5pm MonFri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; c ; m Seattle Center), which entertains and educates with virtualreality exhibits, laser shows, holograms, an Imax theater and a planetarium. Parents won’t be bored either. Downtown on Pier 59, Seattle Aquarium (% 206-386-4300; www.seattleaquarium.org; 1483 Alaskan Way, at Pier 59; adult/child 4-12yr $23/16; h 9:30am-5pm; c ; d University St) is a fun way to learn about the natural world of the Pacific Northwest. Even better is Woodland Park Zoo (% 206-548-2500; www.zoo.org; 5500 Phinney Ave N; adult/child 3-12yr MaySep $20/12.25, Oct-Apr $13.75/9.25; h 9:30am-6pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr; c ; g 5) in the Green Lake neighborhood, one of Seattle’s greatest tourist attractions and consistently rated as one of the top 10 zoos in the country.

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oToulouse Petit

ents as clams, potatoes, nettles, soft eggs, truffle cheese and more. Other locations around town.

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marketplace-like building on trendy Capitol Hill, this small-plates fine diner has won acclaim for its casual vibe, constantly changing menu and good wine selection. Sample items such as the house-made charcuterie, conica morels or king-trumpet escabeche. All the ingredients are obtained from local producers. Reserve ahead.

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Cascina Spinasse ITALIAN $$$ (% 206-251-7673; www.spinasse.com; 1531 14th Ave; mains $28-31; h 5-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; g 11) Spinasse specializes in cuisine of

the Piedmont region of northern Italy. This means seasonally inspired dishes such as roasted morels stuffed with pork, or milkbraised chicken with roasted baby artichokes. The finely curated wine list includes a number of impressive Piedmontese reds.

6 Drinking & Nightlife Starbucks is the tip of the iceberg when it comes to coffee culture in Seattle; the city has spawned plenty of smaller indie chains, many with their own roasting rooms. Look out for Uptown Espresso, Caffe Ladro and Espresso Vivace. You’ll find cocktail bars, dance clubs and live music on Capitol Hill. The main drag in Ballard has brick taverns both old and new, filled with the hard-drinking older set in daylight hours and indie rockers at night. Belltown has gone from grungy to shabby chic, and has the advantage of many drinking holes neatly lined up in rows.

oStarbucks Reserve

Roastery & Tasting Room COFFEE (www.starbucks.com/roastery; 1124 Pike St; coffees $3-12; h 7am-11pm) Often likened to Willy

Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, this roastery – Starbucks’ largest venue to date – is a multileveled mecca of over-caffeinated proportions. Up front a greeter welcomes you with a map, while in back gigantic roasters spin beans. It’s a Scandinavian-inspired arena of glass, wood, copper and concrete – a perfect place to sip your cup of siphoned West Java Preanger ($12). Coffee flights available.

oFremont Brewing

BREWERY

(% 206-420-2407; www.fremontbrewing.com; 3409 Woodland Park Ave N; h 11am-9pm; g 26)

S Hipsters and cyclists frequent this trendy

brewery for its award-winning beers and sustainable practices. On sunny days, sitting at the communal tables out back in the beer

garden is mandatory. Free pretzels and apples to snack on, but no real food. Noble Fir BAR (% 206-420-7425; www.thenoblefir.com; 5316 Ballard Ave NW; h 4pm-midnight Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 1-9pm Sun; g 17) Possibly the first bar

devoted to the theme of wilderness-hiking, the upscale Noble Fir is a bright, shiny spot in the Ballard neighborhood with an epic beer list that might just make you want to abandon all your plans for outdoor adventure. Fine wine and hard ciders, too, along with meat and cheese plates. Zeitgeist CAFE (% 206-583-0497; www.zeitgeistcoffee.com; 171 S Jackson St; h 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; W ; j Pioneer Sq) Possibly Se-

attle’s best indie coffee bar, Zeitgeist brews up smooth doppio macchiatos to go along with the sweet almond croissants (and other luscious baked goods). The atmosphere is airy industrial, with brick walls and large windows for people-watching. Soups, salads and sandwiches on offer. Pike Pub & Brewery BREWERY (% 206-622-6044; www.pikebrewing.com; 1415 1st Ave; h 11am-midnight; d University St) Leading

the way in the microbrewery revolution, this brewpub was an early starter, opening in 1989 underneath Pike Place Market. Today it continues to serve good pub food (mains $11 to $20) and hop-heavy beers in a busily decorated but fun multilevel space. Free tours available.

Elysian Brewing Company BREWERY (% 206-860-1920; www.elysianbrewing.com; 1221 E Pike St; h 11:30am-2am Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat & Sun; j Pike-Pine) Located on hip Capitol

Hill, the Elysian’s huge windows are great for people-watching. This is one of Seattle’s best brewpubs, loved in particular for its spicy pumpkin beers on draft, available in the fall. The Elysian has other locations around town. Panama Hotel Tea & Coffee House CAFE (% 206-515-4000; www.panamahotel.net; 607 S Main St; h 8am-9pm; j Chinatown/International District W) The Panama, a historic 1910 build-

ing containing the only remaining Japanese bathhouse in the US, doubles as a memorial to the neighborhood’s Japanese residents forced into internment camps during WWII. The beautifully relaxed cafe has a wide selection of teas, serves Lavazza Italian coffee, and boasts a National Treasure designation.

1 89 Caffè Umbria CAFE (% 206-624-5847; www.caffeumbria.com; 320 Occidental Ave S; h 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat, 8am-5pm Sun; j Pioneer Sq) Umbria has

a European flavor with its 8oz cappuccinos, chatty clientele, pretty Italianate tiles and baguettes so fresh they must have been teleported over from Milan. Beautiful pastry and gelato case, too. Ideal for Italophiles and Starbucks-phobes.

3 Entertainment Consult The Stranger, Seattle Weekly or the daily papers for listings. Tickets for big events are available at TicketMaster (www. ticketmaster.com). Live Music Crocodile LIVE MUSIC (% 206-441-4618; www.thecrocodile.com; 2200 2nd Ave; g 13) Nearly old enough to be called

beer, arcade games and music, which is mostly punk and metal. A remnant of Belltown’s grungier days that refuses to become an anachronism, it keeps the lights low and the music loud. Pinball machines are built into every table, and basic snacks (hot dogs, nachos) soak up the booze.

a Seattle institution, the Crocodile is a clamorous 560-capacity music venue that first opened in 1991, just in time to grab the coattails of the grunge explosion. Everyone who’s anyone in Seattle’s alt-music scene has since played here, including a famous occasion in 1992 when Nirvana appeared unannounced supporting Mudhoney.

Blue Moon DIVE BAR (% 206-675-9116; www.bluemoonseattle.wordpress.com; 712 NE 45th St; h 2pm-late Mon-Fri, noon-late Sat, 1pm-late Sun; g 66) A legendary

Tractor Tavern LIVE MUSIC (% 206-789-3599; www.tractortavern.com; 5213 Ballard Ave NW; g 17) The premier venue for

counterculture dive near the university that first opened in 1934 to celebrate the repeal of the prohibition laws, the Blue Moon makes much of its former literary patrons – doyens Dylan Thomas, Allen Ginsberg and Tom Robbins get mentioned a lot. These days you’re more likely to run into its comedy, open-mic and vinyl-revival nights. Re-Bar GAY (% 206-233-9873; www.rebarseattle.com; 1114 Howell St; g 70) This storied indie dance club,

where many of Seattle’s defining cultural events happened (such as Nirvana album releases), welcomes gay, straight, bi or undecided revelers to its lively dance floor. Also come

folk and acoustic music, Tractor Tavern books local songwriters and regional bands, plus quality touring acts. Music runs towards country, rockabilly, folk, blues and old-time. It’s an intimate place with a small stage and great sound; occasional square dancing is frosting on the cake. Neumo’s LIVE MUSIC (% 206-709-9442; www.neumos.com; 925 E Pike St; j Pike-Pine) This punk, hip-hop and alterna-

tive-music Capitol Hill venue counts Radiohead and Bill Clinton (not together) among its former guests. It can get hot and sweaty, and even smelly, but that’s rock and roll.

GRUNGE & OTHER MUSICAL SUBCULTURES Synthesizing Gen X angst with a questionable approach to personal hygiene, grunge first dive-bombed onto Seattle’s music scene in the early 1990s like a clap of thunder on an otherwise dry and sunny afternoon. The anger had been fermenting for years. Hardcore punk originated in Portland in the late 1970s, led by resident contrarians the Wipers, whose antifashion followers congregated in legendary dive bars such as Satyricon. Another musical blossoming occurred in Olympia, where DIY–merchants Beat Happening invented ‘lo-fi’ and coyly mocked the corporate establishment. Scooping up the fallout of a disparate youth culture, Seattle quickly became grunge’s pulpit, spawning bands such as Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and Alice in Chains. The genre went global in 1991 when Nirvana’s Nevermind album knocked Michael Jackson off the number-one spot, but the movement was never meant to be successful, and the kudos quickly killed it. Since the mid-1990s the Pacific Northwest has kept its subcultures largely to itself, though the music’s no less potent or relevant.

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Shorty’s DIVE BAR (% 206-441-5449; www.shortydog.com; 2222 2nd Ave; h noon-2am; g 13) Shorty’s is all about

for its offbeat theater, burlesque shows and poetry slams – among other wacky offerings.

190 Performing Arts A Contemporary Theatre THEATER (ACT; % 206-292-7676; www.acttheatre.org; 700 Union St; d University St) One of the three big com-

panies in the city, this theater fills its $30-million home at Kreielsheimer Place with performances by Seattle’s best thespians and occasional big-name actors. Terraced seating surrounds a central stage, and the interior has gorgeous architectural embellishments. Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S Washin hoppin e att l eggton

Intiman Theater Company THEATER (% 206-441-7178; www.intiman.org; 201 Mercer St; m Seattle Center) Artistic director Andrew

Russell curates magnificent stagings of Shakespeare and Ibsen, among others. On the Boards DANCE, THEATER (% 206-217-9888; www.ontheboards.org; 100 W Roy St; g 13) The place for avant-garde per-

formance art, the nonprofit On the Boards makes its home at the intimate Behnke Center for Contemporary Performance, and showcases some innovative and occasionally weird dance and music.

MEDICAL SERVICES Harborview Medical Center (% 206-7443000; www.uwmedicine.org/harborview; 325 9th Ave) Full medical care, with emergency room. MEDIA KEXP 90.3 FM (www.kexp.org) Legendary independent music and community station. Seattle Times (www.seattletimes.com) The state’s largest daily paper. Stranger (www.thestranger.com) Irreverent and intelligent free weekly, edited by Dan Savage of ‘Savage Love’ fame. POST Post Office (% 206-748-5417; www.usps.com; 301 Union St; h 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) TOURIST INFORMATION Seattle Visitor Center & Concierge Services (% 206-461-5840; www.visitseattle.org; cnr Pike St & 7th Ave, Washington State Convention Center; h 9am-5pm daily Jun-Sep, Mon-Fri Oct-May) Also look for an information kiosk at the entrance to Pike Place Market.

7 Shopping

88 Getting There & Away

The main big-name shopping area is downtown between 3rd and 6th Aves and University and Stewart Sts. Pike Place Market is a maze of arts-and-crafts stalls, galleries and small shops. Pioneer Sq and Capitol Hill have locally owned gift and thrift shops. There are many only-in-Seattle shops worth seeking out.

AIR Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA; % 206-787-5388; www.portseattle.org/Sea-Tac; 17801 International Blvd; W ), 13 miles south of Seattle on I-5, has daily services to Europe, Asia, Mexico and points throughout the USA and Canada, with frequent flights to and from Portland, OR, and Vancouver, BC.

DeLaurenti’s FOOD (% 206-622-0141; 1435 1st Ave; h 9am-6pm MonSat, 10am-5pm Sun; d University St) Offers a

stunning selection of wine, cheese, sausages, hams and pasta, along with a large range of capers, olive oils and anchovies. The sandwich counter is a great place to order panini, salads and pizza slices. Elliott Bay Book Company BOOKS (% 206-624-6600; www.elliottbaybook.com; 1521 10th Ave; h 10am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 11pm Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; j Pike-Pine) This beloved lo-

cal bookstore offers over 150,000 titles in a large, airy, wood-beamed space with cozy nooks that can inspire hours of serendipitous browsing.

88 Information EMERGENCY Seattle Police (% 206-625-5011; www.seattle. gov/police)

BOAT Victoria Clipper (% 206-448-5000; www. clippervacations.com; 2701 Alaskan Way, Pier 69) Operates several high-speed passenger ferries to the San Juan Islands and Victoria, BC, as well as offering package tours. Washington State Ferries (WSF; % 888808-7977; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) Routes, prices and schedules available on the website; fares depend on the destination, vehicle size and trip duration, and are collected either for round-trip or one-way travel depending on the departure terminal. Reserve ahead, as bookings are becoming almost mandatory to some destinations (ie San Juan Islands). BUS Various intercity coaches serve Seattle at different drop-off points. Bellair Airporter Shuttle (% 866-235-5247; www.airporter.com) Buses connect downtown Seattle and Sea-Tac airport with Anacortes (for the San Juan Island ferries) and Bellingham.

191 Greyhound (% 206-628-5526; www.greyhound.com; 503 S Royal Brougham Way) Greyhound connects Seattle with cities all over the country, including Chicago, Spokane, San Francisco and Vancouver, BC. Quick Shuttle (% 800-665-2122; www.quickcoach.com; W ) Fast and efficient Quick Shuttle has several daily buses to Vancouver, BC.

88 Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT There are a number of options for making the 13mile trek from the airport to downtown Seattle. The most efficient is via the new light-rail service run by Sound Transit (www.soundtransit.org). Seattle’s Link Light Rail operates between SeaTac Airport and downtown (Westlake Center). It runs every 10 to 15 minutes between 5am and midnight; the ride takes 36 minutes. There are additional stops in Pioneer Sq and the International District. Shuttle Express (% 425-981-7000; www. shuttleexpress.com) has a pickup and drop-off point on the 3rd floor of the airport garage; it charges approximately $18 and is handy if you have a lot of luggage. Taxis are available at the parking garage on the 3rd floor. The average fare to downtown is $46 (not including tip). CAR & MOTORCYCLE Trapped in a narrow corridor between mountains and sea, Seattle is a horrendous traffic bottleneck and its nightmarish jams are famous. I-5 has a high-occupancy vehicle lane for vehicles carrying two or more people. Otherwise, try to work around the elongated ‘rush hours.’ PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Buses are operated by Metro Transit (www. metro.kingcounty.gov), part of the King County Department of Transportation. Seattle has a bike share system (www.prontocycleshare.com) with 50 stations around the city. Monorail (% 206-905-2620; www.seattlemonorail.com; adult/child 5-12yr $2.25/1) Travels only between two stops: Seattle Center and Westlake Center.

TAXI All Seattle taxi cabs operate at the same rate, set by King County; $2.60 at meter drop, then $2.70 per mile. Seattle Orange Cab (% 206-522-8800; www. orangecab.net) Seattle Yellow Cab (% 206-622-6500; www. seattleyellowcab.com)

A round Seattle Olympia Small in size, but big in clout, state capital Olympia is a musical, political and outdoor powerhouse. Look no further than the street-side buskers on 4th Ave belting out acoustic grunge, the smartly attired bureaucrats marching across the lawns of the state legislature, or the Goretex-clad outdoor fiends overnighting before sorties into the Olympic Mountains. Progressive Evergreen State College has long lent the place an artsy turn (Matt Groening, creator of the Simpsons, studied here), while the dive bars and secondhand guitar shops of downtown provided an original pulpit for riot grrrl music and grunge.

1 Sights & Activities Washington State Capitol LANDMARK (% 360-902-8880; 416 Sid Snyder Ave SW; h 7am5:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun) F

Olympia’s capitol complex is set in a 30acre park overlooking Capitol Lake with the Olympic Mountains glistening in the background. The campus’ crowning glory is the magnificent Legislative Building. Completed in 1927, it’s a dazzling display of craning columns and polished marble, topped by a 287ft dome that is only slightly smaller than its namesake in Washington, DC. Tours available. Olympia Farmers Market MARKET (% 360-352-9096; www.olympiafarmersmarket. com; 700 N Capitol Way; h 10am-3pm Thu-Sun AprOct, Sat & Sun Nov & Dec) S Second only to Se-

attle’s Pike Place in size and character, Olympia’s local market is a great place to shop for organic herbs, vegetables, flowers, baked goods and the famous specialty oysters.

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TRAIN King Street Station (% 206-296-0100; www. amtrak.com; 303 S Jackson St) Amtrak serves Seattle’s King Street Station. Three main routes run through town: the Amtrak Cascades (connecting Vancouver, Seattle, Portland and Eugene); the very scenic Coast Starlight (connecting Seattle, Oakland and Los Angeles) and the Empire Builder (a cross-continental to Chicago).

Seattle Streetcar (www.seattlestreetcar.org) Runs about every 15 minutes from downtown Seattle (Westlake) to South Lake Union; stops allow connections with numerous bus routes. Expansion lines are planned.

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4 Sleeping & Eating Fertile Ground Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$ (% 360-352-2428; www.fertileground.org; 311 9th Ave SE; s/d from $110/120; W ) Surrounded by

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a lush and leafy organic garden, this comfortable and homey guesthouse offers three lovely rooms, one en suite and two with shared bath. Breakfast is made mostly from organic and locally sourced ingredients. Sauna on premises. More rooms (including a dorm) are available at other locations; check the website for details. Traditions Cafe & World Folk Art AMERICAN $ (% 360-705-2819; www.traditionsfairtrade.com; 300 5th Ave SW; sandwiches $9-10; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; v ) S

Fair Trade hippy enclave of fresh salads (lemon-tahini, smoked salmon etc), sandwiches (meat, veggie and vegan), a few Mexican and Italian plates, coffee drinks, herbal teas and local ice cream. Attached is an eclectic folk-art store. Check the website for music, poetry nights and more.

88 Information State Capitol Visitor Center (% 360-7047544; www.visitolympia.com; 103 Sid Snyder Ave SW; h 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun) Offers information on the capitol campus, the Olympia area and Washington state. Note the limited opening hours.

Olympic Peninsula

Surrounded on three sides by sea and exhibiting many of the characteristics of a fullblown island, the remote Olympic Peninsula is about as ‘wild’ and ‘west’ as America gets. What it lacks in cowboys it makes up for in rare, endangered wildlife and dense primeval forest. The peninsula’s roadless interior is largely given over to the notoriously wet Olympic National Park, while the margins are the preserve of loggers, Native American reservations and a smattering of small but interesting settlements, most notably Port Townsend. Equally untamed is the western coastline, America’s isolated end point, where tempestuous ocean and misty old-growth Pacific rainforest meet in aqueous harmony.

Olympic National Park Declared a national monument in 1909 and a national park in 1938, the 1406-sq-mile Olympic National Park (www.nps.gov/olym)

shelters one of the world’s only temperate rainforests and a 57-mile strip of Pacific coastal wilderness that was added in 1953. Opportunities for independent exploration abound, with activities from hiking and fishing to kayaking and skiing. EASTERN ENTR ANCES

The graveled Dosewallips River Rd follows the river from US 101 (turnoff approximately 1km north of Dosewallips State Park) for 15 miles to Dosewallips Ranger Station, where hiking trails begin; call % 360-5653130 for road conditions. Even hiking smaller portions of the two long-distance paths, including the 14.9 mile Dosewallips River Trail, with views of glaciated Mt Anderson, is reason enough to visit the valley. Another eastern entry for hikers is the Staircase Ranger Station (% 360-877-5569), just inside the national-park boundary, 15 miles from Hoodsport on US 101. Two state parks along the eastern edge of the national park are popular with campers: Dosewallips State Park (% 888-226-7688; www.parks.wa.gov/499/ Dosewallips; 306996 Hwy 101; tent sites $12-35, RV sites $30-45) and Lake Cushman State Park (% 888-226-7688; campsites $15-66). Both have

running water, flush toilets and some RV hookups. Reservations are accepted. NORTHERN ENTR ANCES

The park’s easiest – and hence most popular – entry point is at Hurricane Ridge, 18 miles south of Port Angeles. At the road’s end, an interpretive center gives a stupendous view of Mt Olympus (7965ft) and dozens of other peaks. The 5200ft altitude can mean you’ll hit inclement weather, and the winds here (as the name suggests) can be ferocious. Aside from various summer trekking opportunities, the area maintains the small, family-friendly Hurricane Ridge Ski & Snowboard Area (www.hurricaneridge.com; c ). Popular for boating and fishing is Lake Crescent, the site of the park’s oldest and most reasonably priced lodge (% 888-8963818; www.olympicnationalparks.com; 416 Lake Crescent Rd; lodge r from $120, cabins from $260; p a W ). Delicious sustainable food is served

in the lodge’s ecofriendly restaurant. From

Storm King Information Station (% 360928-3380; 343 Barnes Point Rd; h May-Sep) on

the lake’s south shore, a 1-mile hike climbs through old-growth forest to Marymere Falls.

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Along the Sol Duc River, the Sol Duc Hot

Springs Resort (% 360-327-3583; www.olympicnationalparks.com; 12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Rd, Port Angeles; day use $12.25, RV sites $43, cabins from $196; h Apr-Oct; as ) S has lodging,

dining, massage and, of course, hot-spring pools, as well as great day hikes. WESTERN ENTR ANCES

Lodge (% 360-288-2900; www.olympicnationalparks.com; 345 S Shore Rd; r from $269; a W s ),

a luxury classic of 1920s ‘parkitecture,’ has a heated pool and sauna, a crackling fireplace and a memorable dining room. For a cheaper sleep nearby, try the ultrafriendly Quinault River Inn (% 360-288-2237; www. quinaultriverinn.com; 8 River Dr; r from $139; a W )

in Amanda Park, a favorite with anglers. A number of short hikes begin just outside the Lake Quinault Lodge, or you can try the longer Enchanted Valley Trail, a medium-grade 13-miler that begins from the Graves Creek Ranger station at the end of South Shore Rd and climbs up to a large meadow resplendent with wildflowers and copses of alder trees.

88 Information The park entry fee is $5/15 per person/vehicle, valid for one week and payable at park entrances. Many park visitor centers double as United States Forestry Service (USFS) ranger stations, where you can pick up permits for wilderness camping (per group $5, valid up to 14 days, plus $2 per person per night). Forks Visitor Information Center (% 360374-2531; www.forkswa.com; 1411 S Forks Ave; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) Olympic National Park Visitor Center (% 360-565-3130; www.nps.gov/olym; 3002

Port Townsend Historic relics are rare in the Pacific Northwest, which makes time-warped Port Townsend all the more fascinating. Small, nostalgic and culturally vibrant, this showcase of 1890s Victorian architecture is the ‘New York of the West that never was,’ a onetime boomtown that went bust at the turn of the 20th century, only to be rescued 70 years later by a group of far-sighted locals. Port Townsend today is a buoyant blend of inventive eateries, historic hotels and quirky annual festivals.

1 Sights Jefferson Art & History Museum MUSEUM (www.jchsmuseum.org; 540 Water St; adult/child $6/1; h 11am-4pm daily Mar-Dec, Sat & Sun Jan & Feb) The local historic society runs this

well-maintained exhibition area that includes mock-ups of an 1892 jail, maritime artifacts and an art-gallery room. You can also learn about the history of prostitution in innocent-seeming Port Townsend. Fort Worden State Park PARK (% 360-344-4431; www.parks.wa.gov/511/FortWorden; 200 Battery Way; h 6:30am-dusk Apr-Oct, 8am-dusk Nov-Mar) This attractive park locat-

ed within Port Townsend’s city limits is the remains of a large fortification system constructed in the 1890s to protect the strategically important Puget Sound area from outside attack – supposedly from the Spanish during the 1898 war. Sharp-eyed film buffs might recognize the area as the backdrop for the movie An Officer and a Gentleman. The Commanding Officer’s Quarters, a 12-bedroom mansion, is open for tours, and part of one of the barracks is now the Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum, which tells the story of early Pacific coastal fortifications. Hikes lead along the headland to Point Wilson Lighthouse Station and some wonderful windswept beaches. On the park’s fishing pier is the Port Townsend

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Isolated by distance and home of one of the country’s rainiest microclimates, the Pacific side of the Olympics remains the wildest. Only US 101 offers access to its noted temperate rainforests and untamed coastline. The Hoh River Rainforest, at the end of the 19-mile Hoh River Rd, is a Tolkienesque maze of dripping ferns and moss-draped trees. The Hoh Visitor Center and Campground (% 360-374-6925; h 9am-5pm) has information on guided walks and longer backcountry hikes. There are no hookups or showers, and it’s first-come, first-served. A little to the south lies Lake Quinault, a beautiful glacial lake surrounded by forested peaks. It’s popular for fishing, boating and swimming, and is surrounded by some of the nation’s oldest trees. Lake Quinault

Mt Angeles Rd, Port Angeles; h 9am-5pm) The best overall center is situated at the Hurricane Ridge gateway, a mile off Hwy 101 in Port Angeles. Hours vary according to the season. Wilderness Information Center (% 360-5653100; www.nps.gov/olym; 3002 Mt Angeles Rd, Port Angeles; h 8am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 4pm Sep-Jun) Provides backcountry permits and backpacking information.

194 Marine Science Center (www.ptmsc.org; 532 Battery Way; adult/child $5/3; h 11am-5pm WedMon Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May) featuring

four touch tanks and daily interpretive programs. There are also several camping and lodging possibilities.

4 Sleeping & Eating Waterstreet Hotel HOTEL $ (% 360-385-5467; www.watersthotel.com; 635 Water St; r $60-175; aW ) Homey and friendly, the

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Waterstreet offers great-value rooms, some with shared bathrooms. If you’re a family or group go for suite 5 – it’s essentially an apartment with a loft, full kitchen and charming back porch with views of Puget Sound. Reception is in the gift shop next door to the hotel. Palace Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (% 360-385-0773; www.palacehotelpt.com; 1004 Water St; r $109-229; W# ) Built in 1889, this

beautiful Victorian building is a former brothel that was once run by the locally notorious Madame Marie, who did business out of the 2nd-floor corner suite. It’s been reincarnated as an attractive period hotel with antique furnishings. Pleasant common spaces; kitchenettes available. Doc’s Marina Grill AMERICAN $$ (% 360-344-3627; www.docsgrill.com; 141 Hudson St; mains $13-24; h 11am-11pm) With a great lo-

cation by Port Townsend’s marina, Doc’s offers up something for everyone. There are burgers, sandwiches, fish and chips, various salads, pastas, steaks, seafood and a few vegetarian selections. It is housed in a historic building that was a nurses’ barracks back in the 1940s. Waterfront Pizza PIZZA $$ (% 360-379-9110; 951 Water St; large pizzas $16-28; h 11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat) If you’re

craving a quick snack, grab a slice downstairs – just be prepared for lines in the closet-size dining room. For more relaxed, sit-down service, climb the stairs and sample the pies topped with treats such as Cajun sausage, feta cheese, artichoke hearts and pesto.

88 Information Visitor Center (% 360-385-2722; www. ptchamber.org; 2409 Jefferson; h 9am-5pm)

88 Getting There & Away Washington State Ferries (% 206-464-6400; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries) Goes to/from Coupeville on Whidbey Island (35 minutes); reserve ahead.

Port Angeles Despite the name, there’s nothing Spanish or particularly angelic about Port Angeles, propped up by the lumber industry and backed by the steep-sided Olympic Mountains. Rather than visiting to see the town per se, people come here to catch a ferry for Victoria, BC, or to plot an outdoor excursion into the nearby Olympic National Park.

2 Activities The Olympic Discovery Trail (www.olympicdiscoverytrail.com) is a 30-mile off-road hiking and cycling trail between Port Angeles and Sequim, starting at the end of Ediz Hook, the sand spit that loops around the bay. Bikes can be rented at Sound Bikes & Kayaks (www.soundbikekayaks.com; 120 Front St; bike rental per hour/day $10/45).

4 Sleeping & Eating Toadlily House HOSTEL $ (% 360-797-3797; www.toadlilyhouse.com; 105 E 5th St; dm $25-30; W ) This bright and clean hos-

tel in a lime-green heritage home has several bunk rooms and one private room ($40) off the back garden. The bathroom and kitchen are shared, the layout is perfect for socializing, and the owner is hip and friendly. Olympic Lodge HOTEL $$ (% 360-452-2993; www.olympiclodge.com; 140 Del Guzzi Dr; r from $190; ai W s ) This is the

most comfortable place in town, offering gorgeous rooms, on-site bistro, swimming pool with hot tub, and complimentary cookies and soup in the afternoon. Prices vary widely depending on the day and month. Bella Italia ITALIAN $$ (% 360-457-5442; www.bellaitaliapa.com; 118 E 1st St; mains $14-24; h 4pm-late) Bella Italia has

been around a lot longer than Bella, the heroine of the Twilight saga, but its mention in the book as the place where Bella and Edward Cullen go for their first date has turned what was already a popular restaurant into an icon. Try the clam linguine, chicken marsala or smoked duck breast, washed down with an outstanding wine from a list featuring 500 selections.

88 Information Port Angeles Visitor Center (% 360-4522363; www.portangeles.org; 121 E Railroad Ave; h 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) Adjacent

195 to the ferry terminal. Open later in summer if volunteers are available.

88 Getting There & Away

Northwest Peninsula Several Native American reservations cling to the extreme northwest corner of the continent, and are welcoming to visitors. The small weather-beaten settlement of Neah Bay on Hwy 112 is home to the Makah Indian Reservation, whose Makah Museum (% 360-645-2711; www.makahmuseum.com; 1880 Bayview Ave; admission $5; h 10am-5pm) dis-

plays artifacts from one of North America’s most significant archaeological finds, the 500-year-old Makah village of Ozette. Several miles beyond the museum, a short boardwalk trail leads to stunning Cape Flattery, a 300ft promontory that marks the most northwesterly point in the lower 48 states. Convenient to the Hoh River Rainforest and the Olympic coastline is Forks, a onehorse lumber town that’s now more famous for its Twilight paraphernalia. It’s a central town for exploring Olympic National Park; a good accommodation choice is the Miller Tree Inn (% 360-374-6806; www.millertreeinn. com; 654 E Division St; r $135-235; W # ).

Northwest Washington

Wedged between Seattle, the Cascades and Canada, northwest Washington draws influences from three sides. Its urban hub is collegiate Bellingham, while its outdoor highlight is the pastoral San Juan Islands, an extensive archipelago that glimmers like a sepia-toned snapshot from another era. Anacortes is the main hub for ferries to the San Juan Islands and Victoria, BC.

Whidbey Island While not as detached (there’s a bridge connecting it to adjacent Fidalgo Island at its

Deception Pass State Park (% 360-6752417; 41229 N State Hwy 20) straddles the epon-

ymous steep-sided water chasm that flows between Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands, and incorporates lakes, islands, campsites and 38 miles of hiking trails. Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve (% 360-678-6084; www.nps.gov/ebla; 162 Cemetery Rd) comprises 17,400 acres encom-

passing working farms, sheltered beaches, two state parks and the town of Coupeville. This small settlement is one of Washington’s oldest towns and has an attractive seafront, antique stores and a number of old inns, including the Coupeville Inn (% 800-247-6162; www.thecoupevilleinn.com; 200 NW Coveland St; r $110-170, condos $175-300; ai W # ), which

bills itself as a French-style motel (if that’s not an oxymoron), with fancy furnishings and a substantial breakfast. For the famous fresh local clams, head to Christopher’s (% 360-678-5480; www.christophersonwhidbey.com; 103 NW Coveland St; mains $18-23; h 11:30am-2pm & 5pm-close).

88 Getting There & Around Washington State Ferries (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ ferries) link Clinton to Mukilteo (20 minutes, every 30 minutes). They also ply the waters between Coupeville and Port Townsend (35 minutes, every 45 minutes). Free Island Transit (% 360-678-7771; www.islandtransit.org) buses run the length of Whidbey every hour daily, except Sundays, from the Clinton ferry dock.

Bellingham Welcome to a green, liberal and famously livable settlement that has taken the libertine, nothing-is-too-weird ethos of Oregon’s ‘City of Roses’ and given it a peculiarly Washingtonian twist. Mild in both manners and weather, the ‘city of subdued excitement,’ as a local mayor once dubbed it, is an unlikely alliance of espresso-sipping students, venerable retirees, all-weather triathletes and placard-waving peaceniks. Publications such as Outside Magazine have consistently lauded it for its abundant outdoor opportunities.

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Clallam Transit (% 360-452-4511; www. clallamtransit.com) Buses go to Forks and Sequim, where they link up with other transit buses that circumnavigate the Olympic Peninsula. Coho Vehicle Ferry (% 888-993-3779; www. cohoferry.com) Runs to/from Victoria, BC (1½ hours). Dungeness Line (www.olympicbuslines.com; 123 East Front St, Gateway Transit Center) Runs twice daily to Seattle.

northernmost point) or nonconformist as the San Juans, life is almost as slow, quiet and pastoral on Whidbey Island. Having six state parks is a bonus, along with a plethora of B&Bs, two historic fishing villages (Langley and Coupeville), famously good clams and a thriving artist’s community.

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1 Sights & Activities Bellingham offers outdoor sights and activities by the truckload. Whatcom Falls Park is a natural wild region that bisects Bellingham’s eastern suburbs. The change in elevation is marked by four sets of waterfalls, including Whirlpool Falls, a popular summer swimming hole.

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Fairhaven Bike & Mountain Sports CYCLING (% 360-733-4433; www.fairhavenbike.com; 1103 11th St; rental per 4hr $25-37.50) Bellingham is

one of the most bike-friendly cities in the Northwest, with a well-maintained intra-urban trail going as far south as Larrabee State Park. This outfit rents bikes and has maps on local routes. San Juan Cruises CRUISE (% 360-738-8099; www.whales.com; 355 Harris Ave; cruises $35-99) Runs cruises around

Bellingham Bay with beer- or wine-tasting, plus whale-watching around the San Juan Islands and more.

4 Sleeping & Eating GuestHouse Inn MOTEL $ (% 360-671-9600; www.guesthouseintl.com; 805 Lakeway Dr; r from $90; aiW# ) This clean,

comfortable and friendly motel is just off I-5 and about a 20-minute walk from downtown Bellingham. Rooms come with modern amenities such as flat-screen TV, fridge and microwave. Continental breakfast and hot-tub use included.

oHotel Bellwether

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

(% 360-392-3100; www.hotelbellwether.com; 1 Bellwether Way; r from $250; aiW# ) Belling-

ham’s finest and most charismatic hotel lies on the waterfront and offers views of Lummi Island. Standard rooms come with Italian furnishings and Hungarian-down duvets, but the finest stay is the 900-sq-ft lighthouse suite (from $500), an old converted three-story lighthouse with a wonderful private lookout. Spa and restaurant on premises. Old Town Cafe CAFE $ (% 360-671-4431; www.theoldtowncafe.com; 316 W Holly St; mains $7-10; h 6:30am-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) Very popular for its casual, art-

sy atmosphere, this bohemian breakfast joint cooks up tasty dishes such as custom omelets, egg tortillas and whole wheat French toast. There’s also homemade granola, gluten-free hot cakes, organic tofu scrambles, garden salads and 10 different kinds of sandwiches.

oPepper Sisters

MODERN AMERICAN $$

(% 360-671-3414; www.peppersisters.com; 1055 N State St; mains $10-18; h 4:30-9pm Tue-Sun; c ) This cheerful, colorful restaurant serves

innovative food that is hard to categorize – let’s call it Mexican cuisine with a Northwestern twist. Try the grilled eggplant tostada, chipotle-and-pink-peppercorn enchilada or Southwest pizza; there’s even a chickenstrip-free kids’ menu.

88 Information Downtown Info Center (% 360-671-3990; www.bellingham.org; 1306 Commercial St; h 9am-5pm)

88 Getting There & Away Alaska Marine Highway (AMHS; % 800-6420066; www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs; 355 Harris Ave) ferries go to Juneau (60 hours) and other southeast Alaskan ports (from $326 without car). The Bellair Airporter Shuttle (www.airporter.com) runs to Sea-Tac Airport, with connections en route to Anacortes and Whidbey Island.

San Juan Islands

Take the ferry west out of Anacortes and you’ll feel like you’ve dropped off the edge of the continent. A thousand metaphoric miles from the urban inquietude of Puget Sound, the nebulous San Juan archipelago conjures up Proustian flashbacks from another era and often feels about as American as – er – Canada (which surrounds it on two sides). There are 172 landfalls in this expansive archipelago, but unless you’re rich enough to charter your own yacht or seaplane, you’ll be restricted to seeing the big four – San Juan, Orcas, Shaw and Lopez Islands – all served daily by Washington State Ferries. Communally, the islands are famous for their tranquillity, whale-watching opportunities, sea kayaking and seditious nonconformity. A great way to explore the San Juans is by sea kayak or bicycle. Expect a guided half-day trip to cost from $45 to $65. Cycling-wise, Lopez is flat and pastoral and San Juan is worthy of an easy day loop, while Orcas offers the challenge of undulating terrain and a steep 5-mile ride to the top of Mt Constitution.

88 Getting There & Around Airlines serving the San Juan Islands include San Juan Airlines (% 800-874-4434; www.

sanjuanairlines.com) and Kenmore Air (% 866435-9524; www.kenmoreair.com). Washington State Ferries (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ ferries) leave Anacortes for the San Juans; some continue to Sidney, BC, near Victoria. Ferries run to Lopez Island (45 minutes), Orcas Landing (60 minutes) and Friday Harbor on San Juan Island (75 minutes). Fares vary by season; the cost of the entire round-trip is collected on westbound journeys only (except those returning from Sidney, BC). To visit all the islands, it’s cheapest to go to Friday Harbor first and work your way back through the other islands. Shuttle buses ply Orcas and San Juan Island in the summer months.

4 Sleeping & Eating

San Juan Island

Juniper Lane Guest House INN $$ (% 360-378-7761; www.juniperlaneguesthouse. com; 1312 Beaverton Valley Rd, Friday Harbor; r $85135, cabins $219; W ) S The five great rooms

Chamber of Commerce (www.sanjuanisland. org; 135 Spring St, Friday Harbor; h 10am-5pm)

located inside a small mall off the main street.

1 Sights San Juan Island National Historical Park HISTORIC SITE (% 360-378-2240; www.nps.gov/sajh; h visitor center 8:30am-5pm Jun-Aug, to 4:30pm Sep-May) SF More known for their scenery than

their history, the San Juans nonetheless hide one of the 19th century’s oddest political confrontations, the so-called ‘Pig War’ between the USA and Britain. This curious stand-off is showcased in two separate historical parks on either end of the island that once housed opposing American and English military encampments.

Lime Kiln Point State Park PARK (% 360-902-8844; www.parks.wa.gov/540/ Lime-Kiln-Point; 1567 Westside Rd, Friday Harbor; h 8am-dusk) S Clinging to the island’s rocky

west coast, this beautiful park overlooks the deep Haro Strait and is, reputedly, one of the best places in the world to view whales from the shoreline. Word is out, however, so the view areas are often packed with hopeful picnickers. There is a small interpretive center (% 360-378-2044; h Jun-Aug) in the park, along with trails, a restored lime kiln and the landmark Lime Kiln Lighthouse, built in 1919.

There are hotels, B&Bs and resorts scattered around the island, but Friday Harbor has the highest concentration. Wayfarer’s Rest HOSTEL $ (% 360-378-6428; www.hostelssanjuan.com; 35 Malcolm St, Friday Harbor; dm $40, r from $85; W )

A short walk from the ferry terminal, this pleasant hostel is located in a homey house with comfortable dorms and affordable private rooms. The main kitchen overlooks the grassy backyard, and there’s also a suite that sleeps six ($245). Reserve two months ahead in summer.

at this cozy, hip inn are decorated with an eclectic assortment of furnishings, much of it refurbished. In summer, there are hammocks in the backyard and views over the surrounding countryside. Communal kitchen and two-bedroom cabin available. It’s 1.3 miles from the ferry dock. Market Chef DELI $ (% 360-378-4546; 225 A St, Friday Harbor; sandwiches $9; h 10am-4pm Mon-Fri) S Super pop-

ular and famous for its delicious sandwiches, such as roast beef and rocket or (their signature) curried egg salad with roasted peanuts and chutney. Salads are also available; local ingredients used. If you’re in town on a Saturday in summer, visit Market Chef at the San Juan Island Farmer’s Market (10am to 1pm). Backdoor Kitchen FUSION $$$ (% 360-378-9540; www.backdoorkitchen.com; 400 A St, Friday Harbor; mains $30-37; h 11:30am2:30pm Mon, 5-9pm Wed-Sun) One of San Juan

Island’s finest restaurants, Backdoor Kitchen uses fresh local ingredients to serve up creative multi-ethnic dishes such as Spanish-style pork with wild prawn stew and east Indian spiced lentils with spinach cake. Dine in the pretty garden in summer. Reserve ahead.

Orcas Island Precipitous, unspoiled and ruggedly beautiful, Orcas Island is the San Juans’ emerald icon, excellent for hiking and, more recently, gourmet food. The ferry terminal is at Orcas Landing, 8 miles south of the main village, Eastsound.

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San Juan Island is the archipelago’s unofficial capital, a harmonious mix of low forested hills and small rural farms that resonate with a dramatic and unusual 19th-century history. The only real settlement is Friday Harbor, home to the visitor center and

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On the island’s eastern lobe is Moran State Park (% 360-376-6173; 3572 Olga Rd; Discover Pass required at some parking lots, $10; h 6:30am-dusk Apr-Sep, 8am-dusk Oct-Mar),

and fairy-lit garden. The Mexican native chef’s family recipes include delicacies such as slow-braised short ribs with blackberry mole or vegetarian quinoa cakes with mushrooms, chèvre, almonds and pipian – but there are also the basics such as fish tacos and enchiladas. Reserve ahead.

4 Sleeping

Island Hoppin’ Brewery BREWERY (www.islandhoppinbrewery.com; 33 Hope Lane, Eastsound; h noon-9pm Tue-Sun) The location,

dominated by Mt Constitution (2409ft), with 40 miles of trails and an amazing 360-degree mountaintop view.

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Doe Bay Village Resort & Retreat HOSTEL $ (% 360-376-2291; www.doebay.com; campsites from $60, cabins from $100, yurts from $125; W # )

S By far the least expensive resort in the San Juans, Doe Bay has the atmosphere of an artists’ commune combined with a hippie retreat. Accommodations include sea-view campsites and various cabins and yurts, some with views of the water. Golden Tree Hostel HOSTEL $$ (% 360-317-8693; www.goldentreehostel.com; 1159 North Beach Rd, Eastsound; dm/d with shared bath $45/115; i W ) Located in an 1890s-era herit-

age house, this hip hostel offers cozy rooms and pleasant common spaces, along with a hot tub and sauna in the grassy garden. There’s even a separate recreation building with pool, foosball, shuffleboard and darts. Friday pizza nights. Reserve in summer. Outlook Inn HOTEL $$ (% 360-376-2200; www.outlookinn.com; 171 Main St, Eastsound; r with shared/private bath from $79/99; iW# ) Eastsound’s oldest and

most eye-catching building, the Outlook Inn (1888) is an island institution. Budget rooms are cozy and neat (try for room 30), while the luxurious suites have fireplaces, Jacuzzi tubs and stunning water views from their balconies. Excellent attached cafe.

5 Eating & Drinking Kitchen ASIAN $ (% 360-376-6958; www.thekitchenorcas.com; 249 Prune Alley, Eastsound; mains $10-15; h 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) S By using mostly local,

organic and sustainably produced ingredients, Kitchen serves up some of the island’s freshest and tastiest ‘fast’ food. Choose from various wraps, all made with sproutedwheat tortillas, or go for a noodle or fried rice bowl with creative sauces. Mijita’s MEXICAN $$ (% 360-376-6722; 310 A St, Eastsound; mains $14-22; h 4-9pm Mon-Sat) It’s difficult to go

wrong in this creative, indoor-outdoor restaurant with its rustic Mexican furnishings

just off Mt Baker Rd near the airport, makes this tiny brewery hard to find, but the locals sure know it’s there – this is the place to go to enjoy seven changeable brews on tap. Don’t come hungry – only snacks are served. Happy hour runs from 7pm to 9pm Sunday to Thursday, while a ping-pong table adds some action.

Lopez Island If you’re going to Lopez – or ‘Slow-pez,’ as locals prefer to call it – take a bike. With its undulating terrain and salutation-offering residents (who are famous for their three-fingered ‘Lopezian wave’), this is the ideal cycling isle. A leisurely pastoral spin can be tackled in a day, with good overnight digs available next to the marina in the Lopez Islander Resort (% 360-468-2233; www.lopezfun.com; 2864 Fisherman Bay Rd; r from $119; W s ), which has a restaurant, gym

and pool and offers free parking in Anacortes (another incentive to dump the car). If you arrive cycleless, call up Village Cycles (% 360-468-4013; www.villagecycles.net; 214 Lopez Rd; rental per hour $7-16), which can de-

liver a bicycle to the ferry terminal for you.

North Cascades

Geologically different from their southern counterparts, the North Cascade Mountains are peppered with sharp, jagged peaks, copious glaciers and a preponderance of complex metamorphic rock. Thanks to their virtual impregnability, the North Cascades were an unsolved mystery to humans until relatively recently. The first road was built across the region in 1972 and, even today, it remains one of the Northwest’s most isolated outposts.

Mt Baker Rising like a ghostly sentinel above the sparkling waters of upper Puget Sound, Mt Baker has been mesmerizing visitors to the

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Northwest for centuries. A dormant volcano that last belched smoke in the 1850s, this haunting 10,781ft peak shelters 12 glaciers, and in 1999 registered a record-breaking 95ft of snow in one season. Well-paved Hwy 542, known as the Mt Baker Scenic Byway, climbs 5100ft to Artist Point, 56 miles from Bellingham. Near here you’ll find the Heather Meadows Visitor Center (Mt Baker Hwy, Mile 56; h 8am-4:30pm May-Sep) and a plethora of varied hikes, including the 7.5-mile Chain Lakes Loop that

Ski Area (% 360-734-6771; www.mtbakerskiarea. com) has 38 runs, eight lifts and a vertical

rise of 1500ft. The resort has gained something of a cult status among snowboarders, who have been coming here for the Legendary Baker Banked Slalom every January since 1985. On your way up the mountain, stop for a bite at authentic honky-tonk bar and restaurant Graham’s (% 360-599-9883; 9989 Mt Bak-

er Hwy; mains $6-14; h noon-9pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am & noon-9pm Sat & Sun) and grab trail munchies at Wake & Bakery (% 360-599-1658; www. getsconed.com; 6903 Bourne St, Glacier; snacks from $4; h 7:30am-5pm), both in the town of Glacier.

Leavenworth Blink hard and rub your eyes. This isn’t some strange Germanic hallucination. This is Leavenworth, a former lumber town that underwent a Bavarian makeover back in the 1960s after the rerouting of the cross-continental railway threatened to put it permanently out of business. Swapping wood for tourists, Leavenworth today has successfully reinvented itself as a traditional Romantische Strasse village, right down to the beer, sausages and lederhosen-loving locals (25% of whom are German). The classic Sound of Music mountain setting helps, as does the fact that Leavenworth serves as the main activity center for sorties into the nearby Alpine Lakes Wilderness. The Leavenworth Ranger Station (% 509-548-2550; 600 Sherbourne St; h 8am4:30pm Mon-Sat) can advise on the local out-

door activities. Highlights include the best climbing in the state at Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon, about 3 miles northwest of town off US 2.

(% 509-548-5623; www.dersportsmann.com; 837 Front St; h 9am-6pm) rents mountain bikes.

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Pension Anna HOTEL $$ (% 509-548-6273; www.pensionanna.com; 926 Commercial St; r from $155) The most authentic

Bavarian hotel in town is also spotless and incredibly friendly. Each room is decorated in imported Austrian decor, and the European-inspired breakfasts (included) may induce joyful yodels. Our favorite room is the double with hand-painted furniture, but the spacious suite in the adjacent St Joseph’s chapel is perfect for families. Enzian Inn HOTEL $$ (% 509-548-5269; www.enzianinn.com; 590 Hwy 2; d from $125; W s ) At this Leavenworth classic,

long-term owner Bob Johnson starts the day with a blast on his famous alpenhorn before breakfast. If this doesn’t send you running for your lederhosen, cast an eye over the free putting green (with resident grass-trimming goats), the indoor and outdoor swimming pools, or the nightly pianist pounding out requests in the Bavarian lobby. München Haus GERMAN $ (% 509-548-1158; www.munchenhaus.com; 709 Front St; snacks from $6; h 11am-9pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu & Sun, to 11pm Fri & Sat; v ) The

Haus is 100% alfresco, meaning that the hot German sausages and pretzels are essential stomach-warmers in winter, while the Bavarian brews will cool you down in summer. The casual beer-garden atmosphere is complemented by vibrant flower baskets, laidback staff and a stash of top-quality relishes, including cider kraut and mustard. Hours vary outside summer.

Lake Chelan Long, slender Lake Chelan is central Washington’s water playground. The town of Chelan, at the lake’s southeastern tip, is the primary base for accommodations and services, and has a USFS ranger station (% 509-682-4900; 428 W Woodin Ave). Lake Chelan State Park (% 509-687-3710; 7544 S Lakeshore Rd; primitive/standard tent sites from $12/25) has 144 campsites; a number of

lakeshore campgrounds are accessible only by boat. If you’d rather sleep in a real bed, try

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leads you around a half-dozen lakes surrounded by huckleberry meadows. Receiving more annual snow than any ski area in North America, the Mt Baker

The Devil’s Gulch is a popular off-road mountain bike trail (25 miles, four to six hours). Local outfitters Der Sportsmann

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the great-value Midtowner Motel (% 800-

572-0943; www.midtowner.com; 721 E Woodin Ave; r $92-129; aiWs ) in town.

Several wineries have also opened in the area and many have excellent restaurants. Try Tsillan Cellars (% 509-682-9463; www.tsillancellars.com; 3875 Hwy 97A; h noon-5pm). Link Transit (% 509-662-1155; www.linktransit.com) buses connect Chelan with Wenat-

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chee and Leavenworth ($1). Beautiful Stehekin, on the northern tip of Lake Chelan, is accessible only by boat (% 509-682-4584; www.ladyofthelake.com), seaplane (% 509-682-5555; www.chelanairways.com)

or a long hike across Cascade Pass, 28 miles from the lake. You’ll find lots of information about hiking, campgrounds and cabin rentals at www.stehekin.com. Most facilities are open from mid-June to mid-September.

Methow Valley The Methow’s combination of powdery winter snow and abundant summer sunshine has transformed this valley into one of Washington’s primary recreation areas. You can bike, hike and fish in summer, and cross-country ski on the second-biggest snow trail network in the US in winter. The 200km of trails are maintained by the nonprofit Methow Valley Sport Trails Association (MVSTA; % 509-996-3287; www.mvsta.com; 309 Riverside Ave, Winthrop) S, which

in winter provides the most comprehensive network of hut-to-hut (and hotel-to-hotel) skiing in North America. An extra blessing is that few people seem to know about it. For classic accommodations and easy access to the skiing, hiking and cycling trails, decamp at the exquisite Sun Mountain Lodge (% 509-996-2211; www.sunmountainlodge.com; 604 Patterson Lake Rd, Winthrop; r from $300, cabins from $405; h Dec-late Oct; a W s ), 10

miles west of the town of Winthrop. While the rooms and facilities are cosy cabin-style (including a lot of taxidermy), it’s the views from up here, and the endless choice of hiking and cross-country skiing trails surrounding the resort, that make it so special.

North Cascades National Park Even the names of the lightly trodden dramatic mountains in North Cascades National Park (www.nps.gov/noca) sound wild and untamed: Desolation Peak, Jagged Ridge, Mt Despair and Mt Terror. Not sur-

prisingly, the region offers some of the best backcountry adventures outside of Alaska. The North Cascades Visitor Center

(% 206-386-4495, ext 11; 502 Newhalem St, Newhalem; h 9am-6pm Jun-Sep, reduced hours Oct-May) S, in the small settlement of Ne-

whalem on Hwy 20, is the best orientation point for visitors and is staffed by expert rangers who can enlighten you on the park’s highlights. Built in the 1930s for loggers working in the valley which was soon to be flooded by Ross Dam, the floating cabins at the Ross Lake Resort (% 206-386-4437; www.rosslakeresort.com; 503 Diablo St, Rockport; cabins $175-350; h mid-Jun–late Oct) on the eponymous lake’s

west side are the state’s most unique accommodations. There’s no road in – guests can either hike the 2-mile trail from Hwy 20 or take the resort’s tugboat-taxi-and-truck shuttle from the parking area near Diablo Dam.

Northeastern Washington Spokane Washington’s second-biggest population center is one of the state’s latent surprises and a welcome break after the treeless monotony of the eastern scablands. Situated at the nexus of the Pacific Northwest’s so-called ‘Inland Empire,’ this understated yet confident city sits on the banks of the Spokane River, close to where British fur traders founded a short-lived trading post in 1810. Though rarely touted in national tourist blurbs, Spokane hosts one of the world’s largest mass-participation running events (May’s annual Bloomsday).

1 Sights Riverfront Park PARK (www.spokaneriverfrontpark.com; c ) The for-

mer site of the 1974 World’s Fair and Exposition, this park’s highlights include a 17-point sculpture walk and Spokane Falls, a gushing combination of scenic waterfalls and foaming rapids. A short gondola ride (adult/

child under 12yr $7.50/5; h 10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat Jul & Aug, reduced hours Sep-Jun)

takes you directly above the falls, as does the cheaper and equally spectacular Monroe St Bridge, built in 1911 and one of the largest concrete arches in the USA.

201 Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture MUSEUM (MAC; % 509-456-3931; www.northwestmuseum. org; 2316 W 1st Ave; adult/child $10/5; h 10am5pm Wed-Sun) In a striking state-of-the-art

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Ruby MOTEL $ (% 509-747-1041; www.hotelrubyspokane.com; 901 W 1st Ave; r from $90; aW# ) This basic motel,

retrofitted in hip, artistic decor, retains its ‘70s feel. Diagonally opposite the Davenport Hotel, it’s walking distance to dining and drinking establishments.

oDavenport Hotel

HISTORIC HOTEL $$

(% 509-455-8888; www.thedavenporthotel.com; 10 S Post St; r from $220; aWs ) This histori-

cal landmark (opened in 1914) is considered one of the best hotels in the country. Even if you’re not staying here, linger in the gorgeous lobby or have a drink in the Peacock Lounge. The adjacent modern Davenport Tower sports a safari-themed lobby and bar.

Mizuna FUSION $$$ (% 509-747-2004; www.mizuna.com; 214 N Howard St; mains lunch $12-14, dinner $27-32; h 11am-

rant is located in an antique brick building with simple furnishings, and is well-known for its specialties such as seed-crushed quinoa croquettes and pan-seared pork tenderloin. Wash dinner down with an exquisite wine for a memorable experience.

6 Drinking & Entertainment With a vibrant student population based at Gonzaga University, Spokane has a happening nighttime scene. NoLi Brewhouse BREWERY (% 509-242-2739; www.nolibrewhouse.com; 1003 E Trent Ave; h 11am-9pm Sun & Mon, to 10pm TueSat) A student hangout situated near Gonza-

ga University, Spokane’s best microbrewery serves some weird and wonderful flavors, including a tart cherry ale and an imperial stout with coffee, chocolate and brown-sugar tones. Food-wise, check out the cod and chips cooked in batter made with the brewery’s own pale ale. Mootsy’s BAR (% 509-838-1570; 406 W Sprague Ave) This pop-

ular bar is the hub for the nightlife and alternative-music scene that hops all along this block between Stevens and Washington Sts. Its cheap Pabst Blue Ribbon (PBR) during happy hour keeps its customer base loyal. Bing Crosby Theater THEATER (% 509-227-7638; www.bingcrosbytheater.com; 901 W Sprague Ave) Yes, Bing Crosby hailed

from Spokane, and now the ‘Bing’ presents concerts, plays and festivals in a fairly intimate setting.

GRAND COULEE DAM While the more famous Hoover Dam (conveniently located between Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon) gets over a million visitors per year, the much larger (four times) and arguably more significant Grand Coulee Dam (inconveniently located far from everything) gets only a trickle of tourism. It’s the largest concrete structure in the US and also the largest producer of electricity in the US. The Grand Coulee Visitor Arrival Center (% 509-633-9265; www.usbr.gov/pn/ grandcoulee/visit; h 8:30am-10:30pm Jun-Aug, to 9:30pm Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-May) details the history of the dam and surrounding area with movies, photos and interactive exhibits, while free guided tours of the facility run on the hour from 10am to 5pm (from May to September); there are fewer tours outside summer. Similarly spectacular is the nightly laser show (www.usbr.gov/pn/grandcoulee/visit; h 10pm Jun & Jul, 9:30pm Aug, 8:30pm Sep) – purportedly the world’s largest – which illustrates the history of the Columbia River and its various dams against a gloriously vivid backdrop.

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building in the historic Browne’s Addition neighborhood, this museum has – arguably – one of the finest collections of indigenous artifacts in the Northwest. Leading off a plush glass foyer overlooking the Spokane River are four galleries showcasing Spokane’s history, as well as a number of rotating exhibitions that change every three to four months. Your ticket also earns you the right to visit the adjacent English Tudor–revival Campbell House.

10pm Mon-Sat, 4-10pm Sun; v ) This fine restau-

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88 Information Spokane Area Visitor Information Center (% 888-776-5263; www.visitspokane.com; 808 W Main Ave; h 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)

88 Getting There & Away Spokane Intermodal Transportation Station (221 W 1st Ave) Buses and trains depart from this station.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S IWashin nformation o u th Cgasca ton d e s

South Cascades

The South Cascades are taller but less clustered than their northern counterparts, extending from Snoqualmie Pass east of Seattle down to the mighty Columbia River on the border with Oregon. The highpoint in more ways than one is 14,411ft Mt Rainier. Equally compelling for different reasons is Mt St Helens (8363ft), still recovering from a devastating 1980 volcanic eruption. Lesser-known Mt Adams (12,276ft) is notable for the huckleberries and wildflowers that fill its grassy alpine meadows during the short but intense summer season.

Mt Rainier National Park The USA’s fourth-highest peak (outside Alaska), majestic Mt Rainier is also one of its most beguiling. Encased in a 368-sq-mile national park (the world’s fifth national park when it was inaugurated in 1899), the mountain’s snowcapped summit and forest-covered foothills boast numerous hiking trails, huge swaths of flower-carpeted meadows, and an alluring conical peak that presents a formidable challenge for aspiring climbers. Mt Rainier National Park (www.nps.gov/ mora; entry per car $25) has four entrances.

Call % 800-695-7623 for road conditions. The National Park Service (NPS) website includes downloadable maps and descriptions of dozens of park trails. The most famous trail is the hardcore, 93-mile-long Wonderland Trail that completely circumnavigates Mt Rainier and takes around 10 to 12 days to tackle. Campgrounds in the park have running water and toilets, but no showers or RV hookups. Reservations at park campsites (% 800-365-2267; www.nps.gov/mora; campsites $20) are strongly advised during summer

months and can be made up to two months in advance by phone or online. For overnight

backcountry trips, you’ll need a wilderness permit; check the NPS website for details. NISQUALLY ENTR ANCE

The busiest and most convenient gate to Mt Rainier National Park, Nisqually lies on Hwy 706 via Ashford, near the park’s southwest corner. It’s open year-round. Longmire, 7 miles inside the Nisqually entrance, has a museum and information center (% 360569-6575; h 9am-4:30pm), a number of important trailheads, and the rustic National Park Inn (% 360-569-2275; www.mtrainierguestservices. com; r with shared/private bath from $119/169, units $252; pa ), complete with an excellent res-

taurant. More hikes and interpretive walks can be found 12 miles further east at loftier Paradise, which is served by the informative Henry M Jackson Visitor Center (% 360569-6571; Paradise; h 10am-7pm daily Jun-Sep, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-May), and the vintage Paradise Inn (% 360-569-2275; www.mtrainierguestservices.com; r with shared/private bath from $117/174; h May-Oct), a historical ‘parkitecture’

inn constructed in 1916 and long part of the national park’s fabric. Climbs to the top of Rainier leave from the inn; excellent four-day guided ascents are led by Rainier Mountaineering Inc (% 888-892-5462; www.rmiguides. com; 30027 SR 706 E, Ashford). OTHER ENTR ANCES

The three other entrances to Mt Rainier National Park are Ohanapecosh, via Hwy 123 and accessed via the town of Packwood, where lodging is available; White River, off Hwy 410, which literally takes the high road (6400ft) to the beautiful viewpoint at the Sunrise Lodge Cafeteria (snacks $6-9; h 10am-7pm Jul & Aug); and remote Carbon River in the northwest corner, which gives access to the park’s inland rainforest.

Mt St Helens National Volcanic Monument What it lacks in height, Mt St Helens makes up for in fiery infamy – 57 people perished on the mountain when it erupted with a force of 1500 atomic bombs on May 18, 1980. The cataclysm began with an earthquake measuring 5.1 on the Richter scale, which sparked the biggest landslide in human history and buried 230 sq miles of forest under millions of tons of volcanic rock and ash. Today it’s a fascinating landscape of recovering forests, new river valleys and ash-covered

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slopes. There’s an $8 per person fee to use the services at Coldwater Lake Recreation Area and Johnston Ridge Observatory. NORTHEASTERN ENTR ANCE

From the main northeast entrance on Hwy 504, your first stop should be the Silver Lake Visitor Center (www.parks.wa.gov/245/ Mount-St-Helens; 3029 Spirit Lake Hwy; adult/child $5/2.50; h 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, reduced hours mid-Sep–mid-May; c ) S, which has

servatory (% 360-274-2140; 24000 Spirit Lake Hwy; admission $8; h 10am-6pm mid-May–Oct),

situated at the end of Hwy 504, which looks directly into the mouth of the crater. A welcome stop in an accommodations-light area, the Eco Park Resort (% 360-

274-7007; www.ecoparkresort.com; 14000 Spirit Lake Hwy, Toutle; campsites $22, yurts $75-150, cabins $125-130) offers seven rooms in a large

house opposite the Silver Lake Visitor Center. SOUTHEASTERN & EASTSIDE ENTR ANCES

The southeastern entrance via the town of Cougar on Hwy 503 holds some serious lava terrain, including the 2-mile-long Ape Cave lava tube, which you can explore yearround; be prepared for the chill as it remains a constant 41°F (5°C). Bring two light sources per adult or rent lanterns at Apes’ Headquarters (% 360-449-7800; h 10am-5pm Jun-Sep) for $5 each.

The eastside entrance is the most remote, but the harder-to-reach Windy Ridge viewpoint on this side gives you a palpable, if eerie, sense of the destruction from the blast. It’s often closed until June. A few miles down the road you can descend 600ft on the 1-milelong Harmony Trail (hike 224) to Spirit Lake.

Central & Southeastern Washington

The sunny, dry near-California-looking central and southeastern parts of Washington harbor one not-so-secret weapon: wine. The fertile land that borders the Nile-like Yakima and Columbia River Valleys is awash with enterprising new wineries producing quality grapes that now vie with the Napa and Sonoma Valleys for national recognition. Yakima and its more attractive cousin Ellensburg

Yakima & Ellensburg Situated in its eponymous river valley, the city of Yakima is a rather bleak trading center that doesn’t really live up to its ‘Palm Springs of Washington’ tourist label. The main reason to stop here is to visit one of the numerous wineries that lie between Yakima and Benton City; pick up a map at the Yakima Valley Visitors & Convention Bureau (% 800-221-0751; www.visityakima.com; 101 N Fair Ave; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May).

A better layover is Ellensburg, a diminutive settlement 36 miles to the northwest that juxtaposes the state’s largest rodeo (each Labor Day) with a town center that has more coffee bars per head than anywhere else in the world (allegedly). Grab your latte at local roaster D&M Coffee (% 509-962-9333; www. dmcoffee.com; 301 N Pine St; h 7am-5pm) S and overnight at centrally located and charming Victorian Guesthouse Ellensburg (% 509962-3706; www.guesthouseellensburg.com; 606 Main St; r from $145), which also runs the excellent Yellow Church Cafe (% 509-9332233; www.theyellowchurchcafe.com; 111 S Pearl St; mains brunch $9-13, dinner $13-20; h 11am-9pm Tue-Thu, 8am-9pm Fri-Mon).

Greyhound services both cities, with buses to Seattle, Spokane and points in between.

Walla Walla Over the last decade, Walla Walla has converted itself from an obscure agricultural backwater, famous for its sweet onions and large state penitentiary, into the hottest wine-growing region outside of California. While venerable Marcus Whitman College is the town’s most obvious cultural attribute, you’ll also find zany coffee bars, cool wine-tasting rooms, fine Queen Anne architecture, and one of the state’s freshest and most vibrant farmers markets.

1 Sights & Activities You don’t need to be sloshed on wine to appreciate Walla Walla’s historical and cultural heritage. Its Main St has won countless historical awards, and to bring the settlement to life, the local chamber of commerce (% 509525-0850; www.wallawalla.org; 29 E Sumach St;

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films, exhibits and free information about the mountain (including trail maps). For a closer view of the destructive power of nature, venture to the Johnston Ridge Ob-

once held the edge, but nowadays the real star is Walla Walla, where talented restaurateurs and a proactive local council are crafting a wine destination par excellence.

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YAKIMA VALLEY WINE TOUR If you find yourself driving between Ellensburg and Walla Walla, why not go wine-tasting? The Yakima Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) is the oldest, largest and most diverse in the state. You’ll find www.wineyakimavalley.org is a good resource for finding wineries.

Bonair Winery (% 509-829-6027; www.bonairwine.com; 500 S Bonair Rd, Zillah; h 10am5pm) In the Rattlesnake Hills near Zillah, this winery has lovely gardens and is a laid-back place to sample luscious reds.

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Terra Blanca (% 509-588-6082; www.terrablanca.com; 34715 N DeMoss Rd, Benton City; h 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11am-6pm Nov-Mar) Majestically located up on Red Mountain with views over the valley, this is one of the fanciest vineyards in the region, and perfect for sipping sweet dessert wines on the patio. There is a restaurant on-site. Maison Bleue (% 509-525-9084; www.mbwinery.com; 20 N 2nd Ave, Walla Walla; h 11am5pm Thu-Sun Apr-Dec) Family-owned winery producing lauded Rhône-style wines. Mon-Fri) has concocted some interesting walking tours, complete with leaflets and maps. h 8:30am-5pm

Fort Walla Walla Museum MUSEUM (% 509-525-7703; www.fwwm.org; 755 Myra Rd; adult/child 6-12yr $8/3; h 10am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; c ) This is a pioneer village

of 17 historical buildings, with the museum housed in the old cavalry stables. There are collections of farm implements, ranching tools and what could be the world’s largest plastic replica of a mule team. Waterbrook Wine WINERY (% 509-522-1262; www.waterbrook.com; 10518 W US 12; h 11am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat)

About 10 miles west of town, the pond-side patio of this large winery is a great place to imbibe a long selection of wines on a sunny day. Food served Thursday to Sunday; hours vary outside summer.

Amavi Cellars WINERY (% 509-525-3541; www.amavicellars.com; 3796 Peppers Bridge Rd; h 10am-4pm) South of Wal-

la Walla, amid a scenic spread of grape and apple orchards, you can sample some of the most talked-about wines in the valley (try the Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon). The classy yet comfortable outdoor patio has views of the Blue Mountains.

4 Sleeping & Eating Colonial Motel MOTEL $ (% 509-529-1220; www.colonial-motel.com; 2279 Isaacs Ave; r $68-129; aW ) A simple family-

run motel halfway to the airport, the Colonial is welcoming and bike-friendly with safe bike storage and plenty of local maps.

Marcus Whitman Hotel HOTEL $$ (% 509-525-2200; www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com; 6 W Rose St; r from $144; aW # ) Walla Walla’s

best-known landmark is also the town’s only tall building, impossible to miss with its distinctive rooftop turret. In keeping with the settlement’s well-preserved image, the redbrick 1928 beauty has been elegantly renovated and decorated, with ample rooms in rusts and browns, embellished with Italiancrafted furniture, huge beds and great views over the nearby Blue Mountains. Graze CAFE $ (% 509-522-9991; 5 S Colville St; sandwiches from $8; h 10am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, to 3:30pm Sun; v )

Amazing sandwiches are packed for your picnic, or (if you can get a table) eaten in at this simple cafe. Try the turkey pear panini with provolone and blue cheese, or the flanksteak torta with pickled jalapeños, avocado, tomato, cilantro and chipotle dressing. Plenty of vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen MEDITERRANEAN $$$ (% 509-525-2112; www.saffronmediterraneankitchen.com; 125 W Alder St; mains $17-30; h 2-10pm Tue-Sat, to 9pm Sun May-Oct, 2-9pm Tue-Sun NovApr) This place isn’t about cooking, it’s about

alchemy: Saffron takes seasonal, local ingredients and turns them into pure gold. The Med-inspired menu lists dishes such as bison rib eye, nettle pappardelle with duck ragù, and wild Burgundy snail flatbread. Then there are the intelligently paired wines – and beers. Reserve ahead.

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88 Getting There & Away Greyhound buses run once daily to Seattle via Yakima and Ellensburg; change buses in Pasco for buses east to Spokane and beyond. Walla Walla Regional Airport (www.wallawallaairport.com) Alaska Airlines services Walla Walla Regional Airport with several daily flights to Seattle.

OREGON

Portland

Call it what you want – PDX, Stumptown, City of Roses, Bridge City, Beervana or Portlandia – Portland positively rocks. It’s a city with a vibrant downtown, pretty residential neighborhoods, ultragreen ambitions and zany characters. Here, liberal idealists outnumber conservative stogies, Gortex jackets are acceptable in fine restaurants and everyone supports countless brewpubs, coffeehouses, knitting circles, lesbian potlucks and eclectic book clubs. Portland is an up-and-coming destination that has finally arrived, and makes for an appealing, can’tmiss stop on your adventures in the Pacific Northwest.

1 Sights 1 Downtown oTom McCall Waterfront Park

PARK

This popular riverside park, which lines the west bank of the Willamette River, was finished in 1978 after four years of construction. It replaced an old freeway with 1.5 miles of paved sidewalks and grassy spaces, and attracts heaps of joggers, in-line skaters, strollers and cyclists. During summer the park is perfect for hosting large outdoor events such as the Oregon Brewers Festival. Walk over

oPioneer Courthouse Square

LANDMARK

(www.thesquarepdx.org) The heart of down-

town Portland, this brick plaza is nicknamed ‘Portland’s living room’ and is the most-visited public space in the city. When it isn’t full of Hacky Sack players, sunbathers or office workers lunching, the square hosts concerts, festivals, rallies, farmers markets, and even summer Friday-night movies (aka ‘Flicks on the Bricks’). Portland Building LANDMARK (cnr SW 5th Ave & SW Main St) This controversial

15-story building (1982) was designed by Michael Graves and catapulted the postmodern architect to celebrity status. The people working inside the blocky, pastel-colored edifice, however, have had to deal with tiny windows, cramped spaces and general user-unfriendliness. The building suffered from major design flaws that later proved very costly to fix – not a great start for what was considered to be the world’s first major postmodern structure. At least it’s been made somewhat green: an ecofriendly roof was installed in 2006. Oregon Historical Society MUSEUM (% 503-222-1741; www.ohs.org; 1200 SW Park Ave; adult/child $11/5; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon5pm Sun) Along the tree-shaded South Park

Blocks sits the state’s primary history museum, which dedicates most of its space to the story of Oregon and the pioneers who made it. There are interesting sections on Native American tribes and the travails of the Oregon Trail. Temporary exhibitions furnish the downstairs space. Check their website for free admission days. Portland Art Museum MUSEUM (% 503-226-2811; www.portlandartmuseum.org; 1219 SW Park Ave; adult/child $15/free; h 10am5pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Thu & Fri) Just

across the South Park Blocks, the art museum’s excellent exhibits include Native American carvings, Asian and American art, and English silver. The museum also houses the Whitsell Auditorium, a first-rate theater that frequently screens rare or international films. Aerial Tram CABLE CAR (www.gobytram.com; 3303 SW Bond Ave; round trip $4.50; h 5:30am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun Oct–mid-May, 1-5pm Sun mid-May– Sep) Portland’s aerial tram runs from the

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O ort G er ttin e g lon an g d T h e r e & Away

It’s hard to slap a single characterization onto Oregon’s geography and people. Its landscape ranges from rugged coastline and thick evergreen forests to barren, fossil-strewn deserts, volcanoes and glaciers. As for its denizens, you name it – Oregonians run the gamut from pro-logging conservatives to tree-hugging liberals to beer-making, sideburn-wearing hipsters. What they all have in common is an independent spirit, a love of the outdoors and a fierce devotion to where they live.

the Steel and Hawthorne bridges to the Eastbank Esplanade, making a 2.6-mile loop.

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OREGON FACTS Nickname Beaver State Population 4 million Area 98,466 sq miles Capital city Salem (population 160,000) Other cities Portland (population 610,000), Eugene (population 160,000), Bend (population 82,000)

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O iort S rgehts g lon an d

Sales tax Oregon has no sales tax Birthplace of Former US president Herbert Hoover (1874–1964), actor and dancer Ginger Rogers (1911–95), writer and merry prankster Ken Kesey (1935–2001), filmmaker Gus Van Sant (b 1952), The Simpsons creator Matt Groening (b 1954) Home of Oregon Shakespeare Festival, Nike, Crater Lake Politics Democrat governors since 1987 Famous for Forests, rain, microbrews, coffee, Death with Dignity Act State beverage Milk (dairy’s big here) Driving You can’t pump your own gas in Oregon; Portland to Eugene, 110 miles; Portland to Astoria, 96 miles

famous market, which showcases handicrafts, street entertainers and food booths. Lan Su Chinese Garden GARDENS (% 503-228-8131; www.lansugarden.org; 239 NW Everett St; adult/child $9.50/7; h 10am-6pm midApr–mid-Oct, to 5pm mid-Oct–mid-Apr) This clas-

sical Chinese garden is a one-block haven of tranquillity, reflecting ponds and manicured greenery. Guided tours are available. Shanghai Tunnels HISTORIC SITE (% 503-622-4798; www.shanghaitunnels.info; 120 NW 3rd Ave; adult/child under 12yr $13/8)

Downtown Portland’s basements were once connected by tunnels running beneath the streets and down to riverside docks. While built for shipping and flood control, rumors persist they were also used to transport unconscious men to be sold to unscrupulous ship’s captains. Though long sealed, remnants can be visited on tour; book at www. portlandwalkingtours.com. Chinatown Gates GATE (cnr W Burnside St & NW 4th Ave) Don’t expect

flashbacks of Shanghai in Portland’s lackluster Chinese quarter, which begins (and largely ends) at the deceptively impressive pagoda-style Chinatown Gates.

1 The Pearl District & Northwest

south Waterfront (there’s a streetcar stop) to Marquam Hill. The tram runs along a 3300ft line up a vertical ascent of 500ft and the ride takes four minutes. The tram opened in 2007, far exceeding its budget predictions and causing much public controversy.

1 Old Town & Chinatown The core of rambunctious 1890s Portland, the once-notorious Old Town used to be the lurking grounds of unsavory characters, but today disco queens outnumber drug dealers. It’s one of the livelier places in town after dark, when nightclubs and bars open their doors and hipsters start showing up. Saturday Market MARKET (% 503-222-6072; www.portlandsaturdaymarket. com; 2 SW Naito Pkwy; h 10am-5pm Sat, 11am4:30pm Sun Mar-Dec) The best time to hit the

river walk is on a weekend to catch this

Pearl District (www.explorethepearl.com)

NEIGHBORHOOD

Slightly to the northwest of downtown, the Pearl District is an old industrial quarter that has transformed its once grotty warehouses into expensive lofts, upscale boutiques and creative restaurants. On the first Thursday of every month, the zone’s abundant art galleries extend their evening hours and the area turns into a fancy street party of sorts. The Jamison Square Fountain (810 NW 11th Ave)

is one of its prettier urban spaces. Northwest 23rd Avenue

NEIGHBORHOOD

Nob Hill – or ‘Snob Hill’ to its detractors – has its hub on NW 23rd Ave, a trendy thoroughfare that brims with clothing boutiques, home-decor shops and cafes. The restaurants – including some of Portland’s finest – lie mostly along NW 21st Ave. This is a perfect neighborhood for strolling, window-shopping and looking at houses that most of us will never be able to afford.

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1 West Hills

1 Northeast & Southeast

Behind downtown Portland is the West Hills area, known for its exclusive homes, huge parks and – if you’re lucky – peek-a-boo views of up to five Cascade volcanoes.

Across the Willamette River from downtown is the Lloyd Center (www.lloydcenter.com; 2201 Lloyd Center), Oregon’s largest shopping mall and where notorious ice-queen Tonya Harding first learned to skate in the rink here. A few blocks to the southwest are the unmissable glass towers of the Oregon Convention

Forest Park PARK (% 503-223-5449; www.forestparkconservancy.org)

6855; www.audubonportland.org; 5151 NW Cornell Rd; h 9am-5pm, nature store 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) maintains a bookstore, wildlife

rehabilitation center and 4.5 miles of trails within its Forest Park sanctuary. Washington Park (www.washingtonparkpdx.org)

PARK

Tame and well-tended Washington Park contains several key attractions within its 400 acres of greenery. The International Rose Test Garden (www.rosegardenstore.org; 400 SW Kingston Ave; h 7:30am-9pm) F is the cen-

terpiece of Portland’s famous rose blooms; there are 400 types on show here, plus great city views. Further uphill is the Japanese

Garden (% 503-223-1321; www.japanesegarden. com; 611 SW Kingston Ave; adult/child $9.50/6.75; h noon-7pm Mon, 10am-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar– Sep, noon-4pm Mon, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct–midMar), another oasis of tranquillity. If you have

kids, the Oregon Zoo and Portland Children’s Museum should be on your docket.

Center (www.oregoncc.org; 777 NE Martin Luther King Jr Blvd), and nearby is the Moda Center (% 503-235-8771; www.center-or.com; 1 N Center Court St) (previously called the Rose Quar-

ter), home of professional basketball team the Trailblazers. Further up the Willamette, N Mississippi Ave used to be full of run-down buildings, but is now a hot spot of trendy shops and eateries. Northeast is artsy NE Alberta St, a long ribbon of art galleries, boutiques and cafes (don’t miss the Last Thursday street-art event here, taking place the last Thursday of each month). SE Hawthorne Blvd (near SE 39th Ave) is affluent hippy territory, with gift stores, cafes, coffeeshops and two branches of Powell’s bookstores. One leafy mile to the south, SE Division St has become a foodie destination, with plenty of excellent restaurants, bars and pubs. The same is true of E Burnside at NE 28th Ave, though it has a more concentrated and upscale feel.

2 Activities Hiking

The best hiking is found in Forest Park (p207), which harbors an unbelievable 80 miles of trails and often feels more like Mt Hood’s foothills than Portland’s city limits.

PORTLAND FOR CHILDREN Washington Park has the most to offer families with young kids. Here you’ll find the world-class Oregon Zoo (% 503-226-1561; www.oregonzoo.org; 4001 SW Canyon Rd; adult/ child 3-11yr $11.50/8.50; h 9am-6pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May; c ), which is set in a beautiful natural environment even parents will enjoy. Next door is the Portland Children’s Museum (% 503-233-6500; www.portlandcm.org; 4015 SW Canyon Rd; admission $10.75; h 9am-5pm; c ) and World Forestry Center (% 503-228-1367; www.worldforestry. org; 4033 SW Canyon Rd; adult/child $9/6; h 10am-5pm; c ), both offering fun learning activities and exhibits. On the other side of the Willamette River, the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry (OMSI; % 503-797-4000; www.omsi.edu; 1945 SE Water Ave; adult/child 3-13yr $13.50/9.75; h 9.30am-7pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May; c ) is a top-notch destination with a theater, planetarium and even a submarine to explore. And finally, further south is Oaks Amusement Park (% 503-233-5777; www.oakspark.com; 7805 SE Oaks Park Way; ride bracelets $13-26, individual rides $2.75; h hours vary; c ), home to pint-size roller coasters, miniature golf and carnival games.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O ctiviti A ort r e g lon aneds

Abutting the more manicured Washington Park to the south (to which it is linked by various trails) is the far wilder 5100-acre Forest Park, a temperate rainforest that harbors plants, animals and an avid hiking fraternity. The Portland Audubon Society (% 503-292-

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The park’s Wildwood Trail starts at the Hoyt Arboretum and winds through 30 miles of forest, with many spur trails that allow for loop hikes. Other trailheads into Forest Park are located at the western ends of NW Thurman and NW Upshur Sts.

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West Hills (0.75mi); Forest Park (1.25mi); Washington Park (1.25mi)

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NW Everett St ý 28 # NW Davis St 30

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Park Blocks

NW Flanders St

NW 6th Ave

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# ü # 23 1 # æ Pearl District Greyhound › NW Glisan St North ú 18 # NW 8th Ave NW Park Ave

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O ctiviti A ort r e g lon aneds

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PEARL DISTRICT

Cycling

Portland has been voted the ‘most bike-friendly city in the US’ several times in the media by the likes of CNN Travel, NBC News and Bicycling Magazine. There are many streets that cater to bicycles, and

209

Portland æ Top Sights 1 Pearl District............................................ B2 2 Pioneer Courthouse Square.................. C4 3 Saturday Market ..................................... D3 4 Tom McCall Waterfront Park ................ D4

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 12 Pedal Bike Tours ..................................... D3 13 Waterfront Bicycle Rentals ................... D3 ÿ Sleeping 14 Ace Hotel.................................................. B3 15 Crystal Hotel............................................ B3 16 Heathman Hotel...................................... B4 17 Northwest Portland Hostel.................... A2

drivers are used to watching out for cyclists. Riding along downtown riverside paths is a great way to see the city. To the east of downtown the Springwater Corridor starts near the Oregon Museum of Science & Industry (as an extension of the Eastbank Esplanade) and goes all the way to the suburb of Boring – 21 miles away. In the northwest, Leif Erikson Dr is an old logging road leading 11 miles into Forest Park and offering occasional peeks over the city. For scenic farm country, head to Sauvie Island, 10 miles northwest of downtown Portland. This island is prime cycling land – it’s flat, has relatively little traffic and much of it is wildlife refuge. Good cycling maps can be found at the tourist office and any bike store. Waterfront Bicycle Rentals BICYCLE RENTAL (% 503-227-1719; www.waterfrontbikes.com; 10 SW Ash St; rental per hour from $9; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) Bike rentals near the

waterfront bike trails. Kayaking

Situated close to the confluence of the Columbia and Willamette Rivers, Portland has miles of navigable waterways. Portland Kayak Company KAYAKING (% 503-459-4050; www.portlandkayak.com; 6600 SW Macadam Ave; rental per hour from $12) Kay-

û Drinking & Nightlife 23 Barista.......................................................B2 24 Departure Lounge ...................................C4 ý Entertainment 25 Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall..........................................................B4 26 Artists Repertory Theatre ......................A3 27 Crystal Ballroom......................................B3 28 Jimmy Mak's ............................................B2 29 Keller Auditorium ....................................C5 30 Portland Center Stage............................B3 þ Shopping 31 Powell's City of Books.............................B3

aking rentals (minimum two hours), instruction and tours, including a three-hour circumnavigation of Ross Island on the Willamette River ($45).

T Tours Pedal Bike Tours BICYCLE TOUR (% 503-243-2453; www.pedalbiketours.com; 133 SW 2nd Ave; tours $49-199; h 10am-6pm) Bike

tours with all sorts of themes – history, food carts, beer – plus trip to the coast or gorge.

Portland Walking Tours WALKING TOUR (% 503-774-4522; www.portlandwalkingtours.com; tours $20-59) Food, chocolate, underground

and even ghost-oriented tours.

z Festivals & Events Portland Rose Festival (www.rosefestival.org; h late

CULTURAL

May–mid-Jun)

Rose-covered floats, dragon-boat races, a riverfront carnival, fireworks, roaming packs of sailors and the crowning of a Rose Queen all make this Portland’s biggest celebration. Oregon Brewers Festival BEER (www.oregonbrewfest.com) In the last full week-

end in July you can quaff microbrews from near and far in Waterfront Park – everyone’s happy and even nondrinkers have fun. Plenty of food stalls.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P Oo T ort ru eg rs lon an d

æ Sights 5 Chinatown Gates .................................... C3 6 Jamison Square Fountain....................... B1 7 Lan Su Chinese Garden ......................... D2 8 Oregon Historical Society...................... B5 9 Portland Art Museum............................. B5 10 Portland Building .................................... C5 11 Shanghai Tunnels ................................... D3

ú Eating 18 Andina.......................................................B2 19 Bing Mi!.....................................................B3 20 Little Big Burger.......................................B3 21 Nong's Khao Man Gai..............................B3 22 Tasty n Alder ............................................B3

210 Bite of Oregon FOOD (www.biteoforegon.com; h early Aug) All the

food (and beer) you could think of consuming, much of it from great local restaurants – and some of it from Portland’s famous food carts. Good microbrews too. The festival benefits Special Olympics Oregon.

4 Sleeping Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O lort S reeegpin lon angd

Reserve ahead in summer, when many Portland hotels book up solid. Prices noted here don’t include lodging taxes, which can range up to 14.5%. Northwest Portland Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 503-241-2783; www.nwportlandhostel.com; 425 NW 18th Ave; dm $29-34, d with shared bath $63-114; aiW ) Perfectly located between

the Pearl District and NW 21st and 23rd Aves, this friendly and clean hostel takes up four old buildings and features plenty of common areas (including a small deck) and discounted bike rentals. Dorms are spacious and private rooms can be as nice as in hotels, though all share outside bathrooms. Non-HI members pay $3 extra.

Hawthorne Portland Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 503-236-3380; www.portlandhostel.org; 3031 SE Hawthorne Blvd; dm $29-34, d with shared bath $80; a iW ) S This ecofriendly hostel has

a great Hawthorne location. The two private rooms are good and the dorms are spacious; all share outside bathrooms. There are summertime open-mic nights in the grassy backyard, and bike rentals (and a fix-it station) are available. The hostel composts and recycles, uses rainwater to flush toilets, and has a nice eco-roof. Discounts offered to those bike-touring.

oKennedy School

HOTEL $$

(% 503-249-3983; www.mcmenamins.com/KennedySchool; 5736 NE 33rd Ave; d from $145; W ) Port-

land’s most unusual institution, this former elementary school is now home to a hotel (sleep in old classrooms!), a restaurant with a great garden courtyard, several bars, a microbrewery and a movie theater. Guests can use the soaking pool for free, and the whole school is decorated in funky art style – mosaics, fantasy paintings and historical photographs. It’s a unique stay and very Portland.

oAce Hotel

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(% 503-228-2277; www.acehotel.com; 1022 SW Stark St; d with shared/private bath from $185/285; paiW# ) One of Portland’s trendiest

places to sleep is this hipster hotel fusing

industrial, minimalist and retro styles. From the photo booth and sofa lounge in its lobby to the recycled fabrics and furniture in its rooms, the Ace makes the warehouse feel work. A Stumptown coffee shop and underground bar are on the premises, and the fancy Clyde Common restaurant is next door. Parking costs $25. McMenamins Edgefield HOTEL $$ (% 503-669-8610; www.mcmenamins.com/54edgefield-home; 2126 SW Halsey St, Troutdale; dm $30, d with shared/private bath from $130/165; W )

This former county poor farm, restored by the McMenamin brothers, is now a one-of-akind, 38-acre hotel complex with a dizzying variety of services. Taste wine and homemade beer, play golf, watch movies, shop at the gift store, listen to live music, walk the extensive gardens and eat at one of its restaurants. It’s about a 20-minute drive east from downtown. Jupiter Hotel BOUTIQUE MOTEL $$ (% 503-230-9200; www.jupiterhotel.com; 800 E Burnside St; d from $179; aW # ) This slick,

remodeled motel is within walking distance of downtown and right next to Doug Fir, a top-notch live-music venue. Standard rooms are tiny – go for the Metro rooms instead – and ask for a pad away from the bar patio if you’re more into sleeping than staying up late. Bike rentals are available; walk-ins after midnight get a discount if there are vacancies. Caravan BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (% 503-288-5225; www.tinyhousehotel.com; 5009 NE 11th Ave; r from $145; aW ) Only in Portland:

stay in a tiny-house (84 to 170 sq ft – smaller than most hotel rooms!), complete with kitchen and bathroom, in the artsy Alberta neighborhood. It’s the first and, currently, only tiny house hotel in the country. Free s’mores nightly and Wednesday night live music from 7pm to 10pm. Book way ahead in summer. Crystal Hotel HOTEL $$ (% 503-972-2670; www.mcmenamins.com/CrystalHotel; 303 SW 12th Ave; r with shared/private bath from $145/175; aW# ) Each room here is ded-

icated to a different artist, musician or poet at this funky McMenamins hotel. It’s located smack-dab in the middle of town, and on the premises are Zeus Café (a good restaurant) and Al’s Den (a speakeasy bar). An original, creaky wood elevator and basement saltwater soaking pool complete the picture.

21 1 Clinton Street Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$ (% 503-234-8752; www.clintonstreetguesthouse. com; 4220 SE Clinton St; d $150; a W ) Just two

simple but beautiful rooms are on offer in this lovely Craftsman house in a residential neighborhood near trendy Division St. Furnishings are elegant, the linens luxurious, and your hosts hands-off. Simple continental breakfast included. There are also two small houses available to rent less than a mile away.

over the top with its bright color scheme and funky decor, this super-trendy hotel boasts huge artsy suites, many with patio or balcony, and all with kitchenettes or full kitchens. There’s a cool rooftop patio with plants, and complimentary streetcar tickets are included (the streetcar runs just outside). Heathman Hotel LUXURY HOTEL $$$ (% 503-241-4100; www.heathmanhotel.com; 1001 SW Broadway; d from $300; p a i W # ) A

Portland institution, the Heathman has topnotch services and one of the best restaurants in the city. Rooms are elegant, stylish and luxurious, and the location is very central. It also hosts high tea in the afternoons, jazz from Wednesday to Saturday evenings and has a library stocked with 1700 signed books by authors who have stayed here. Parking costs $39.

5 Eating Portland’s rapidly evolving food scene tore up the rule book years ago and has branched out into countless genres and subgenres. Vegetarianism is well represented, as is brunch, Asian fusion and the rather loose concept known as ‘Pacific Northwest.’ Then there are the city’s famous food carts, representing dozens of cuisines and quirky food niches. Little Big Burger BURGERS $ (% 503-274-9008; www.littlebigburger.com; 122 NW 10th Ave; burgers $4; h 11am-10pm) A sim-

ple six-item menu takes fast food to the next level with mini burgers made from prime ingredients. Try a beef burger topped with cheddar, Swiss, chèvre or blue cheese, with a side of truffled fries – then wash it down with a gourmet root-beer float. Several locations; check the website.

cated on a strip of 28th Ave dubbed ‘Restaurant Row’ is this beautiful dining room with bird cages as lampshades. Bright, fresh flavors come alive in plates such as the steak salad or gra prao muu grob (crispy pork belly with basil and chili). Tasty cocktails are available, too, and the lauded restaurant Langbaan is secreted away behind a wall – though it’s booked out months in advance. Tasty n Sons AMERICAN $$ (% 503-621-1400; www.tastynsons.com; 3808 N Williams Ave; h 9am-2:30pm & 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) Superb small plates in a trendy,

high-ceilinged, industrial-feel dining room. Share delicacies such as bacon-wrapped dates, grilled quail with couscous, and lamb souvlaki. Especially popular for brunch, when a wait is guaranteed. There is a more extensive menu at their other location, Tasty n Alder (% 503-621-9251; www.tastynalder.com; 580 SW 12th Ave; mains $15-20; h 9am-2pm & 5:3010pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat).

Olympia Provisions FRENCH $$ (% 503-894-8136; www.olympiaprovisions.com; 1632 NW Thuman St; mains lunch $9-15, dinner $1928; h 11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun) This French-inspired rotisserie bistro

serves up charcuterie and cheese boards, gourmet sandwiches, salads and deli items, and main plates such as rotisserie chicken and confit duck leg. Delicious Benedicts for brunch. Also at 107 SE Washington St.

Ken’s Artisan Pizza PIZZA $$ (% 503-517-9951; www.kensartisan.com; 304 SE 28th Ave; pizza for one $11-13; h 5-10pm Mon-Sat, 4-9pm Sun) Glorious wood-fired, thin-crust

pizzas with toppings such as prosciutto, fennel sausage and green garlic. Super-trendy atmosphere, with huge sliding windows that open to the street on warm nights. Expect a long wait – no reservations taken. Pambiche CUBAN $$ (% 503-233-0511; www.pambiche.com; 2811 NE Glisan St; mains $12-20; h 11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 9am-midnight Sat, to 10pm Sun) Port-

land’s best Cuban food, with a trendy and riotously colorful atmosphere. All your regular favorites are available, but leave room for dessert. Lunch is a good deal, but happy hour is even better (2pm to 6pm Monday to Friday, 10pm to midnight Friday and Saturday). Be prepared to wait for dinner.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O ort Eatin r e g lon gan d

Inn at Northrup Station BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (% 503-224-0543; www.northrupstation.com; 2025 NW Northrup St; d from $225; paiW ) Almost

Paadee THAI $$ (% 503-360-1453; www.paadeepdx.com; 6 SE 28th Ave; mains $11-17; h 11:30am-3pm & 5-10pm) Lo-

212

PORTLAND’S FOOD CARTS One of the most fun ways to explore Portland’s cuisine is to eat at a food cart. These semipermanent kitchens-on-wheels inhabit parking lots around town and are usually clustered together in ‘pods,’ often with their own communal tables, ATMs and portaloos. As many of the owners are immigrants (who can’t afford a hefty restaurant start-up), the carts are akin to an international potluck. Food-cart locations vary, but the most significant cluster is at SW Alder St and SW 9th Ave. For a current list and some background information, see www.foodcartsportland. com. Highlights in a highly competitive field:

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O ort Eatin r e g lon gan d

Nong’s Khao Man Gai (% 971-255-3480; www.khaomangai.com; cnr SW 10th Ave & SW Alder St; mains $8; h 10am-4pm Mon-Fri) Tender poached chicken with rice. That’s it – and enough. Also at 411 SW College St (another food cart) and 609 SE Ankeny St (a brickand-mortar restaurant), both of which have a more extensive menu. Holy Mole (% 503-347-4270; www.facebook.com/holymoleportlandor; 1419 SE 33rd Ave; mains $7-11) Not your typical taco cart (though Fernando Otero does have one taco choice on his menu). Try the pozole (a hearty corn soup) or his trademark mole dishes. Hours change daily; check the website. Viking Soul Food (% 971-506-5579; www.vikingsoulfood.com; 4262 SE Belmont St; mains $7-9; h noon-8pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 9pm Fri & Sat) Delicious Norwegian wraps. Savory stuffings include meatballs, chicken sausage, house-smoked salmon and mushroom-hazelnut patties. Sweet stuffings include rhubarb chèvre, lemon curd and lingonberry preserves. Several pickled sides available, too. Bing Mi! (www.bingmiportland.com; cnr SW 9th Ave & SW Alder St; savory crepes $6; h 7:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) Savory grilled crepes in Northern Chinese style, stuffed with scrambled egg, pickled vegetables, fried crackers, black-bean paste and chili sauce. That’s all you get, and that’s all you’ll need. Bollywood Theater INDIAN $$ (% 971-200-4711; www.bollywoodtheaterpdx.com; 2039 NE Alberta St; small plates $9-12, thalis $1517; h 11am-10pm; v ) This popular Indian res-

taurant serves up ‘street food’ such as lamb samosas and kati rolls (meat and chutney rolled up in flatbread), along with small plates (chicken curry, pork vindaloo) and thalis (platters with several dishes). Plenty of vegetable and side dishes as well; wash it all down with a chai, yogurt lassi. Podnah’s Pit BARBECUE $$ (% 503-281-3700; www.podnahspit.com; 1625 NE Killingsworth St; mains $12-30; h 11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun) Possibly Port-

land’s best barbecue joint, serving amazingly tender and tasty pork ribs that have been smoked for four hours. There’s also brisket, chicken and pulled-pork sandwiches, along with typical sides such as coleslaw, potato salad and collard greens.

oAndina

PERUVIAN $$$

(% 503-228-9535; www.andinarestaurant.com; 1314 NW Glisan St; mains $23-35; h 11:30am2:30pm & 5-9:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri &

Sat) A modern take on traditional Peruvian

food produces delicious mains such as slowcooked lamb shank in cilantro-and-blackbeer sauce or wok-fried wild mushrooms served with garlic rice. For lighter fare, hit the bar for tapas, great cocktails and Latininspired live music.

oNed Ludd

AMERICAN $$$

(% 503-288-6900; www.nedluddpdx.com; 3925 NE Martin Luther King Jr Blvd; small plates $925; h 5pm-late Wed-Sat, 9am-2pm & 5pm-close Sun) S Too quintessentially Portland, this

offbeat, upscale joint exudes artisan vibes, from its rustic-peasant decor to the prominent brick wood-fired oven where all dishes are cooked. The beautifully presented small plates are rotated daily. Not a place to simply fill your tummy, but rather to sample eclectic ‘American craft’ delicacies. Also does a good brunch.

oOx

STEAK $$$

(% 503-284-3366; www.oxpdx.com; 2225 Martin Luther King Jr Blvd; mains $23-42; h 5-10pm TueThu & Sun, to 11pm Fri & Sat) One of Portland’s

most popular restaurants is this upscale, Ar-

21 3

gentine-inspired steakhouse. Start with the smoked bone-marrow clam chowder, then go for the gusto: the grass-fed beef rib eye. Or, if there’s two of you, the asado ($60) is a good choice for trying several different cuts. Reserve ahead.

pray they have the salted-caramel stout. Good food and nice outdoor seating, too.

Ataula SPANISH $$$ (% 503-894-8904; www.ataulapdx.com; 1818 NW 23rd Pl; tapas $7-12, paella dishes $32-37; h 4:30-10pm Tue-Sat) This critically acclaimed

atop the 15th floor of the Nines Hotel, fills a deep downtown void: a cool bar with unforgettable views of Portland. The vibe is distinctly spaceship-LA, with mod couches and sleek lighting. Hit happy hour from 4pm to 6pm Tuesday to Thursday (or late night) for select drinks and appetizers.

Ava Gene’s ITALIAN $$$ (% 971-229-0571; www.avagenes.com; 3377 SE Division St; mains $20-32; h 5-11pm) Renowned

trattoria-inspired eatery owned by Duane Sorenson, who founded Stumptown Coffee. Rustic Italian cuisine rules the menu, with exquisite pasta and vegetable dishes as highlights. Exceptional ingredients, great wine list and cocktails, and outstanding service. Reserve ahead.

6 Drinking & Nightlife Portland is world famous for its coffee, and boasts more than 70 breweries within its metro area – more than any other city on earth. It also offers a wide range of excellent bars, from dive bars to hipster joints to pubs and ultra-modern lounges. You’ll never get thirsty in these parts.

oBarista

COFFEE

(% 503-274-1211; www.baristapdx.com; 539 NW 13th Ave; h 6am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat & Sun)

One of Portland’s best coffeeshops, owned by award-winning barista Billy Wilson and known for its lattes. Beans are sourced from specialty roasters. Three other locations in town. Breakside Brewery BREWERY (% 503-719-6475; www.breakside.com; 820 NE Dekum St; h 3-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun) Over 20 taps of some of the most

experimental, tastiest beer you’ll ever drink, laced through with fruits, vegetables and spices (try the hoppy Breakside IPA). Past beers have included a Meyer lemon kolsch, a mango IPA and a beet beer with ginger. For dessert,

Stumptown Coffee Roasters COFFEE (% 503-230-7702; www.stumptowncoffee.com; 4525 SE Division St; h 6am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun) The microroaster who put Port-

land on the coffee map, and still its most famous coffeeshop – though some bemoan the fact that it has ‘gone corporate.’ See the website for other Portland (and US) locations. Coava Coffee COFFEE (% 503-894-8134; www.coavacoffee.com; 1300 SE Grand Ave; h 6am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat, 8am-6pm Sun) The decor takes the concept of

‘neo-industrial’ to extremes, but most people love that – and Coava delivers where it matters. The pour-over makes for a fantastic cup of java, and the espressos are exceptional, too. Also at 2631 SE Hawthorne Blvd. Heart COFFEE (% 503-206-6602; www.heartroasters.com; 2211 E Burnside St; h 7am-6pm) Artsy-industrial at-

mosphere on busy E Burnside; check out its large visible roaster. A bit too hipster-y for some, but most of the beans are well (and lightly) roasted. Also at 537 SW 12th Ave. Ecliptic Brewing BREWERY (% 503-265-8002; www.eclipticbrewing.com; 825 N Cook St; h 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) Founded by John Harris, who previous-

ly brewed for the McMenamins, Deschutes and Full Sail before starting Ecliptic, his own brewery-restaurant. Instantly popular, it now puts out interesting creations such as Spica Pilsner (an unfiltered ale) and Mintaka Stout (a dry beer with caramel and coffee notes).

Migration BREWERY (% 503-206-5221; www.migrationbrewing.com; 2828 NE Glisan St; h 11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun) Popular neighborhood brewpub

with great casual-industrial atmosphere. Wood picnic tables outside make it easy to see and be seen, and are especially wonderful

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O ort Drinkin r e g lon angd& N i g ht l if e

Spanish tapas restaurant offers outstanding cuisine. If they’re on the menu, try the nuestras bravas (sliced, fried potatoes in milk alioli), croquetas (salt-cod fritters), xupa-xup (chorizo lollipop) or ataula montadito (salmon with marscapone yogurt and black-truffle honey). Great cocktails, too. Reserve ahead.

Departure Lounge BAR (% 503-802-5370; www.departureportland.com; 525 SW Morrison St; h 4pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) This rooftop restaurant-bar,

214

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MICROBREWING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O ort Ent r e egrtainm lon an d e nt

Beer connoisseurship is a nationwide phenomenon these days, but the campaign to put a dash of flavor into commercially brewed beer was first ignited in the Pacific Northwest in the 1980s. One of America’s first microbreweries was the mercurial Cartwright Brewing Company, set up in Portland in 1980. The nation’s first official brewpub was the now defunct Grant’s, which opened in the Washington city of Yakima in 1982. The trend went viral in 1984 with the inauguration of Bridgeport Brewing Company in Portland, followed a year later by Beervana’s old-school brewing brothers Mike and Brian McMenamin, whose quirky beer empire still acts as a kind of personification of the craft-brewing business in the region. Today, Washington and Oregon operate over 450 microbreweries (the Portland metro area alone has over 70). These take classic, natural ingredients – malt, hops and yeast – to produce high-quality beer in small batches.

on a warm day. There’s great food, too – the gringo bowl and steak salad are favorites – while sports fans will appreciate a Blazers or Timbers game on the screens inside. Hair of the Dog Brewing BREWERY (% 503-232-6585; www.hairofthedog.com; 61 SE Yamhill St; h 11:30am-10pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

HOTD brews unusual beer styles, some of which are ‘bottle-conditioned,’ whereby the brewing cycle is finished inside the bottle. This results in complex flavors and high alcohol content, and the beer ages like a fine wine. Food is served to complement the beer’s flavors. Rontoms BAR (% 503-236-4536; 600 E Burnside St; h 11am2:30am Mon-Fri, 2pm-2:30am Sat & Sun) First the

downside – the food’s just OK, the service is mediocre and if you’re not a hipster you’ll feel out of place. But if it’s a nice day, the large patio in back is the place to be. It’s at the corner of E Burnside and 6th (too cool for a sign).

3 Entertainment The best guide to local entertainment is the free Willamette Week (www.wweek.com), which comes out on Wednesday and lists theater, music, clubs, cinema and events in the metro area. Also, try the Portland Mercury (www.portlandmercury.com). For summer outdoor concerts, check what’s happening at the Oregon Zoo (www. oregonzoo.org) or at McMenamins Edgefield (p210). Live Music Doug Fir Lounge LIVE MUSIC (% 503-231-9663; www.dougfirlounge.com; 830 E Burnside St) Combining futuristic elements

with a rustic log-cabin aesthetic, this ultra-trendy venue has helped transform the LoBu (lower Burnside) neighborhood from seedy to slick. Doug Fir books edgy, hardto-get talent, drawing crowds from tattooed youth to suburban yuppies. Its decent restaurant has long hours. Find it next door to the rock-star-quality Jupiter Hotel. Crystal Ballroom LIVE MUSIC (% 503-225-0047; www.mcmenamins.com; 1332 W Burnside St) This large, historic ballroom

has hosted some major acts, including the Grateful Dead, James Brown and Jimi Hendrix. The ‘floating’ dance floor makes dancing a balancing act. If you like ‘80s music, come on a Friday night. Mississippi Studios LIVE MUSIC (% 503-288-3895; www.mississippistudios.com; 3939 N Mississippi Ave) Good for checking out

budding acoustic talent, along with more established musical acts. Excellent sound system and good restaurant-bar with patio next door. Located right on trendy N Mississippi Ave. Jimmy Mak’s LIVE MUSIC (% 503-295-6542; www.jimmymaks.com; 221 NW 10th Ave) Stumptown’s premier jazz venue,

serving excellent Mediterranean food in its dining room.

Performing Arts Portland Center Stage THEATER (% 503-445-3700; www.pcs.org; 128 NW 11th Ave)

The city’s main theater company now performs in the Portland Armory – a renovated Pearl District landmark with state-of-the-art features.

21 5 Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall CLASSICAL MUSIC (% 503-248-4335; www.portland5.com; 1037 SW Broadway) The Oregon Symphony performs

in this beautiful, if not acoustically brilliant, downtown venue.

Artists Repertory Theatre THEATER (% 503-241-1278; www.artistsrep.org; 1515 SW Morrison St) Some of Portland’s best plays,

including regional premieres, are performed in two intimate theaters.

let Theatre stage performances here, along with some Broadway productions.

7 Shopping Portland’s downtown shopping district extends in a two-block radius from Pioneer Courthouse Sq and hosts all of the usual suspects. The Pearl District is dotted with high-end galleries, boutiques and homedecor shops. On weekends, you can visit the quintessential Saturday Market (p206) by the Skidmore Fountain. For a pleasant, upscale shopping street, head to NW 23rd Ave. Eastside has lots of trendy shopping streets that also host restaurants and cafes. SE Hawthorne Blvd is the biggest, N Mississippi Ave is the newest and NE Alberta St is the most artsy and funkiest. Down south, Sellwood is known for its antique shops.

88 Information EMERGENCY Portland Police Bureau (% 503-823-0000; www.portlandoregon.gov/police; 1111 SW 2nd Ave) INTERNET ACCESS Central Library (% 503-988-5123; www.multcolib.org; 801 SW 10th Ave; h 10am-8pm Mon, noon-8pm Tue & Wed, 10am-6pm Thu-Sat, to 5pm Sun) Downtown; for other branches check the website. MEDIA KBOO 90.7 FM (www.kboo.fm) Progressive local station run by volunteers; alternative news and views. Portland Mercury (www.portlandmercury. com) Free local sibling of Seattle’s The Stranger. Willamette Week (www.wweek.com) Free weekly covering local news and culture.

You remember bookstores, don’t you? Well they haven’t all disappeared. Powell’s City of Books (% 800-878-7323; www.powells.com; 1005 W Burnside St; h 9am-11pm), an empire of reading that takes up a whole city block on multiple stories, once claimed to be ‘the largest independent bookstore in the world.’ Don’t miss it during your Portland tenure; it’s a local institution, tourist attraction and a worthy place to hang out for a few hours (it’ll take you that long to get through it). There are other branches around town and at the airport, but none as large.

MEDICAL SERVICES Legacy Good Samaritan Medical Center (% 503-413-7711; www.legacyhealth.org; 1015 NW 22nd Ave) Convenient to downtown. POST Post Office (% 503-525-5398; www.usps. com; 715 NW Hoyt St; h 8am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm Sat) TOURIST INFORMATION Portland Oregon Visitors Association (% 503-275-8355; www.travelportland.com; 701 SW 6th Ave; h 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, to 2pm Sun May-Oct, 8:30am5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Nov-Apr) Super-friendly volunteers staff this office in Pioneer Courthouse Sq. There’s a small theater with a 12-minute film about the city, and Tri-Met bus and light-rail offices inside.

88 Getting There & Away AIR Portland International Airport (PDX; % 503460-4234; www.flypdx.com; 7000 NE Airport Way; W ) Award-winning Portland International Airport has daily flights all over the US, as well as to several international destinations. It’s situated just east of I-5 on the banks of the Columbia River (20 minutes’ drive from downtown). BUS Greyhound (% 503-243-2361; www.greyhound. com; 550 NW 6th Ave) Greyhound connects Portland with cities along I-5 and I-84. Destinations include Chicago, Denver, San Francisco, Seattle and Vancouver, BC. Bolt Bus (% 877-265-8287; www.boltbus.com) Connects Portland with Seattle, Bellingham, Eugene and San Francisco, among other cities.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t P O hoppin S ort r e g lon angd

Keller Auditorium PERFORMING ARTS (% 503-248-4335; www.portland5.com; 222 SW Clay St) The Portland Opera and Oregon Bal-

POWELL’S CITY OF BOOKS

216 TRAIN Amtrak (% 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com; 800 NW 6th Ave) Amtrak serves Chicago, Oakland, Seattle and Vancouver, BC.

88 Getting Around

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t W O eri lttin G elgam onge tt A ro e Va u nldl e y

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Portland International Airport (PDX) is about 10 miles northeast of downtown, next to the Columbia River. Tri-Met’s light-rail MAX line takes about 40 minutes to get from downtown to the airport. Blue Star (% 503-249-1837; www.bluestarbus.com) offers shuttle services between PDX and several downtown stops. Taxis charge around $40 from the airport to downtown (not including tip). BICYCLE It’s easy riding a bicycle around Portland, often voted ‘the most bike-friendly city in America.’ Rental companies include Clever Cycles (% 503-334-1560; www.clevercycles.com/ rentals; 900 SE Hawthorne Blvd; rentals per day from $30; h 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) and Waterfront Bicycle Rentals (p209). PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Portland has a good public-transportation system, which consists of local buses, streetcars and the MAX light-rail. All are run by TriMet (% 503-238-7433; www.trimet.org; 701 SW 6th Ave; h 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri), which has an information center at Pioneer Courthouse Sq. Tickets for the transportation systems are completely transferable within 2½ hours of the time of purchase. Buy tickets for local buses from the fare machines as you enter; for streetcars, you can buy tickets either at streetcar stations or on the streetcar itself. Tickets for the MAX must be bought from ticket machines at MAX stations (before you board); there is no conductor or ticket seller on board (but there are enforcers). Be aware that there are fewer services at night, and only a few run past 1am; check the website for details on a specific line. CAR Most major car-rental agencies have outlets both downtown and at Portland International Airport. Many of these agencies have added hybrid vehicles to their fleets. Zipcar (www. zipcar.com) is a popular car-sharing option, but there are many. For cheap parking downtown, see www.portlandoregon.gov/transportation/35272. CHARTER SERVICE EcoShuttle (% 503-548-4480; www.ecoshuttle.net) For custom bus or van charters and tours, try EcoShuttle. Vehicles are run on 100% biodiesel.

PEDICAB PDX Pedicab (% 503-828-9888; www.pdxpedicab.com) For an ecofriendly option, there are several pedicab operators in town, including PDX Pedicab. Bicycle pedicabs come with ‘drivers’ that pedal you around downtown. TAXI Cabs are available 24 hours by phone. Downtown, you can sometimes just flag them down. Broadway Cab (% 503-333-3333; www. broadwaycab.com) Radio Cab (% 503-227-1212; www.radiocab.net)

Willamette Valley

The Willamette Valley, a fertile 60-milewide agricultural basin, was the Holy Grail for Oregon Trail pioneers who headed west more than 170 years ago. Today it’s the state’s breadbasket, producing more than 100 kinds of crops – including renowned Pinot Noir grapes. Salem, Oregon’s capital, is about an hour’s drive from Portland at the northern end of the valley, and most of the other attractions in the area make easy day trips as well. Toward the south is Eugene, a dynamic college town worth a day or two of exploration.

Salem Oregon’s legislative center (not the Salem associated with witches, which is in Massachusetts) is renowned for its cherry trees, art-deco capitol building and Willamette University. Willamette University’s Hallie Ford Mu-

seum of Art (% 503-370-6855; www.willamette. edu/arts/hfma; 900 State St; adult/child $6/free; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) showcases the

state’s best collection of Pacific Northwest art, including an impressive Native American gallery. The Oregon State Capitol (% 503-986-

1388; www.oregonlegislature.gov; 900 Court St NE; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) F, built in 1938, looks

like a background prop from a lavish Cecil B DeMille movie; free tours are offered. Rambling 19th-century Bush House (% 503-3634714; www.salemart.org; 600 Mission St SE; adult/ child $6/3; h 1-4pm Wed-Sun Mar-Dec) is an Ital-

ianate mansion now preserved as a museum with historical accents, including original wallpapers and marble fireplaces. You can get oriented at the Visitors Information Center (% 503-581-4325; www.travelsalem.com; 181 High St NE; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat).

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Salem is served daily by Greyhound

(% 503-362-2428; www.greyhound.com; 500 13th St SE) buses and Amtrak (% 503-588-1551; www.amtrak.com; 500 13th St SE) trains.

Eugene

1 Sights Alton Baker Park PARK (100 Day Island Rd) This popular, 400-acre

riverside park, which provides access to the Ruth Bascom Riverbank Trail System, a 12-mile bikeway that flanks both sides of the Willamette, is heaven for cyclists and

University of Oregon UNIVERSITY (% 541-346-1000; www.uoregon.edu; 1585 E 13th Ave) Established in 1872, the University of

Oregon is the state’s foremost institution of higher learning, with a focus on the arts, sciences and law. The campus is filled with historical ivy-covered buildings and includes a Pioneer Cemetery, with tombstones that give vivid insight into life and death in the early settlement. Campus tours are held in the summer.

4 Sleeping Eugene has all the regular chain hotels and motels. Prices rise sharply during key football games and graduation. Campus Inn MOTEL $ (% 541-343-3376; www.campus-inn.com; 390 E Broadway; d $70-80; ai W # ) This very

pleasant motel near the university offers spacious business-style rooms in simple, stylish decor. Go for the $10 upgrade: it’s worth it for a bigger bed and more space. Small gym, communal Jacuzzi and upstairs outside patio available.

WILLAMETTE VALLEY WINE COUNTRY Just a hour’s drive from Portland is the Willamette Valley, home to hundreds of wineries producing world-class tipples, especially Pinot Noir. McMinnville, Newberg and Dundee provide many of this region’s services, which include some very fine restaurants, shops, B&Bs and wine-tasting rooms. Check out www.willamettewines.com for more information on the region’s wineries. Meandering through plush green hills on winding country roads from one wine-tasting room to another is a delightful way to spend an afternoon (just make sure you designate a driver). If you’d rather go on a tour, Grape Escape (% 503-283-3380; www.grapeescapetours.com) offers some good ones. If you like to bicycle, Portland-based Pedal Bike Tours (p209) runs five-hour bike tours ($89). For something more cerebral, head to McMinnville’s Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum (% 503-434-4185; www.evergreenmuseum.org; 500 NE Captain Michael King Smith Way; adult/child incl 3-D movie $25/23; h 9am-5pm) and check out Howard Hughes’ Spruce Goose, the world’s largest wood-framed airplane. There’s also a replica of the Wright brothers’ Flyer, along with a 3-D theater and – oddly enough – an excellent water park. For an interesting place to stay, head to McMenamins Hotel Oregon (% 503-4728427; www.mcmenamins.com; 310 NE Evans St; d $83-138; a W # ), an older building renovated into a charming hotel. It has a wonderful rooftop bar. And for a spectacular restaurant experience, consider Joel Palmer House (% 503-864-2995; www.joelpalmerhouse. com; 600 Ferry St, Dayton; prix fixe menus from $55; h 4:30-9:30pm Tue-Sat) S Its dishes are peppered with wild mushrooms collected locally by the chefs.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t W O iriglehts S lgam one tt e Va l l e y

Eclectic Eugene – also known as ‘Tracktown’ – is full of youthful energy and liberal politics, and famous for its track-and-field champions (Nike was born here, after all). And while the city maintains a working-class base in timber and manufacturing, some unconventional citizens live here as well, from ex-hippie activists to eco-green anarchists to upscale entrepreneurs to high-tech heads. Eugene offers a great arts scene, exceptionally fine restaurants, boisterous festivals, miles of riverside paths and several lovely parks. It’s an awesome place to be, both for energetic visitors and those lucky enough to settle here.

joggers. There’s good downtown access via the DeFazio Bike Bridge.

218 Eugene Whiteaker International Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 541-343-3335; www.eugenehostels.com; 970 W 3rd Ave; dm $30-35, r $40-75; n i W ) This

casual hostel in an old rambling house has an artsy vibe, nice front and back patios to hang out in, and a free simple breakfast. Campsites are available ($25 per person), and there’s a second location (the Emerald Garden Hostel) nearby. Paci fi c N o rth w e s t W O ri lelgam Eatin on g e&tt Drinkin e Va l l g ey

C’est La Vie Inn B&B $$ (% 541-302-3014; www.cestlavieinn.com; 1006 Taylor St; d $150-170, ste $260; a i W ) This

gorgeous Victorian house, run by a friendly French/American couple, is a neighborhood showstopper. Beautiful antique furniture fills the living and dining areas, while the three tastefully appointed rooms offer comfort and luxury. Also available is an amazing suite with kitchenette.

sants and pain au chocolat. Even the dayold pastries are delicious (and half-price). Organic coffee, too.

oBeppe & Gianni’s Trattoria

ITALIAN $$

(% 541-683-6661; www.beppeandgiannis.net; 1646 E 19th Ave; mains $15-20; h 5-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) One of Eugene’s most belov-

ed restaurants and its favorite Italian food. Homemade pastas are the real deal here, and the desserts are excellent. Expect a wait, especially on weekends. Pizza Research Institute PIZZA $$ (PRI; % 541-343-1307; www.pizzaresearchinstitute. com; 325 Blair Blvd; pizzas $16-24; h 4-9:30pm; v )

5 Eating & Drinking

Located in a cute bungalow house, PRI bakes up some of Eugene’s best (vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free) pies. Try the pear with vegan pesto, apple and smoked gouda, or chèvre with marinated eggplant. You can build your own pizza, too, adding toppings such as artichoke hearts, asparagus or roasted zucchini.

Papa’s Soul Food Kitchen SOUTHERN $ (% 541-342-7500; www.papassoulfoodkitchen.com; 400 Blair Blvd; mains $8-12; h noon-2pm & 5-10pm Tue-Fri, 2-10pm Sat) This popular Southern-

Ninkasi Brewing Company BREWERY (% 541-344-2739; www.ninkasibrewing.com; 272 Van Buren St; h noon-9pm Sun-Wed, to 10pm ThuSat) Head to this tasting room to sample

food spot grills up awesome jerk chicken, pulled-pork sandwiches, crawfish jambalaya and fried okra. The best part is the live blues music that keeps the joint open late on Friday and Saturday nights. Nice back patio, too. Sweet Life Patisserie BAKERY $ (% 541-683-5676; www.sweetlifedesserts.com; 755 Monroe St; pastries $2.50-5; h 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun) S Eugene’s best dessert

shop: think pecan sticky buns, savory crois-

some of Oregon’s best microbrews. There’s a sweet outdoor patio with snacks to purchase, and there’s usually a food cart or two nearby. Brewery tours available.

88 Information Visitor Center (% 541-484-5307; www.eugenecascadescoast.org; 754 Olive St; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) On weekends, stop by the visitor center at 3312 Gateway St in Springfield for information.

HOT SPRINGS Oregon has an abundance of hot springs and there are some not far from Salem:

Bagby Hot Springs (www.bagbyhotsprings.org; admission $5) A couple of hours’ drive east of Salem is this rustic hot spring with various wood tubs in semiprivate bathhouses. It’s accessible via a lovely 1.5-mile hiking trail. Terwilliger Hot Springs (admission $6) About 40 miles east of Eugene, Terwilliger Hot Springs (aka Cougar Hot Springs) is a beautiful cluster of terraced outdoor pools framed by large rocks. They’re rustic, but well-maintained, with the hottest on top. Clothing is optional, no alcohol is allowed and it’s day-use only. From the parking lot, you’ll have to walk a quarter-mile to the springs. To get here, turn south onto Aufderheide Scenic Byway from Hwy 126 and drive 7.5 miles. Breitenbush Hot Springs (% 503-854-3320; www.breitenbush.com) Enjoy salubrious climes at Breitenbush Hot Springs, a fancy spa with massages, yoga and the like. Dayuse prices are $16 to $30, but you can also stay in the dorm, cabins or lodge.

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88 Getting There & Around

Columbia River Gorge

The fourth-largest river in the US by volume, the mighty Columbia runs 1243 miles from Alberta, Canada, into the Pacific Ocean just west of Astoria. For the final 309 miles of its course, the heavily dammed waterway delineates the border between Washington and Oregon and cuts though the Cascade Mountains via the spectacular Columbia River Gorge. Showcasing numerous ecosystems, waterfalls and magnificent vistas, the land bordering the river is protected as a National Scenic Area and is a popular sporting nexus for windsurfers, cyclists, anglers and hikers. Not far from Portland, Multnomah Falls is a huge tourist draw, while Vista House offers stupendous gorge views. And if you want to stretch your legs, the Eagle Creek Trail is the area’s premier tromping ground – provided you don’t get vertigo!

Hood River & Around Famous for its surrounding fruit orchards and wineries, the small town of Hood River – 63 miles east of Portland on I-84 – is also a huge mecca for windsurfing and kiteboarding. Strong river currents, prevailing westerly winds and the vast Columbia River provide the perfect conditions for these wind sports.

1 Sights & Activities Mt Hood Railroad HISTORIC SITE (% 800-872-4661; www.mthoodrr.com; 110 Railroad Ave) Built in 1906, the railroad once

transported fruit and lumber from the upper Hood River Valley to the main railhead

Cathedral Ridge Winery WINERY (% 800-516-8710; www.cathedralridgewinery.com; 4200 Post Canyon Dr) Attractive winery with

signature red blends and an award-winning Barbera.

Hood River Waterplay WATER SPORTS (% 541-386-9463; www.hoodriverwaterplay.com; Port of Hood River Marina) To partake in Hood

River’s wind sports, such as catamaran sailing and windsurfing, contact this outfitter for rentals and classes. Discover Bicycles CYCLING (% 541-386-4820; www.discoverbicycles.com; 210 State St; rentals per day $30-80; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) Rents road, hybrid and

mountain bikes and can give advice on area trails.

4 Sleeping & Eating Inn of the White Salmon INN $$ (% 509-493-2335; www.innofthewhitesalmon.com; 172 West Jewett Blvd; d $129-189; aW ) Over in

White Salmon, WA, is this very pleasant and contemporary 18-room inn with comfortable accommodations and a lovely patio-garden out back. There’s also a very nice fourbed dorm (single bunk $25, queen bunk for two $40), along with a common-use kitchenette area. Hood River Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (% 541-386-1900; www.hoodriverhotel.com; 102 Oak St; d $109-209; aW # ) Located right in

the heart of downtown, this fine 1913 hotel offers comfortable old-fashioned rooms with four-poster or sleigh beds, some with tiny baths. The suites have the best amenities and views. Kitchenettes are also available, and there’s a restaurant and sauna on the premises. Double Mountain Brewery PUB $$ (% 541-387-0042; www.doublemountainbrewery. com; 8 4th St; sandwiches $7.50-10, pizzas $16-22; h 11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) For

a casual bite, step into this popular brewpub-restaurant for a tasty sandwich or excellent brick-oven pizza. The menu is limited, but the food is great and the beer even better. Live music on weekends.

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Eugene’s Amtrak station (% 541-687-1383; www.amtrak.com; 433 Willamette St) runs daily trains to Vancouver, BC, and LA, and everywhere in between on its Cascade and Coast Starlight lines. Greyhound (% 541-344-6265; www. greyhound.com; 987 Pearl St) runs north to Salem and Portland, and south to Grants Pass and Medford. Porter Stage Lines (www.kokkola-bus.com) runs a daily bus from outside the train station to the coast. Local bus service is provided by Lane Transit District (% 541-687-5555; www.ltd.org). For bike rentals, try Paul’s Bicycle Way of Life (% 541-344-4105; www.bicycleway.com; 566 Charnelton St; rentals per day $24-48; h 9am7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun).

in Hood River. The vintage trains now transport tourists beneath Mt Hood’s snowy peak and past fragrant orchards, on various excursions. See the website for schedules and fares. Reserve in advance.

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88 Information Chamber of Commerce (% 541-386-2000; www.hoodriver.org; 720 E Port Marina Dr; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun AprOct, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar)

88 Getting There & Away Hood River is connected to Portland by daily Greyhound (% 541-386-1212; www.greyhound. com; 110 Railroad Ave) buses. Amtrak runs on the Washington side.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O I nformation r e g on C asca d e s

Oregon Cascades

The Oregon Cascades offer plenty of dramatic volcanoes that dominate the skyline for miles around. Mt Hood, overlooking the Columbia River Gorge, is the state’s highest peak, and has year-round skiing plus a relatively straightforward summit ascent. Tracking south you’ll pass Mt Jefferson and the Three Sisters before reaching Crater Lake, the ghost of erstwhile Mt Mazama that collapsed in on itself after blowing its top approximately 7000 years ago.

Mt Hood The state’s highest peak, Mt Hood (11,240ft) pops into view over much of northern Oregon whenever there’s a sunny day, exerting an almost magnetic tug on skiers, hikers and sightseers. In summer, wildflowers bloom on the mountainsides and hidden ponds shimmer blue, making for some unforgettable hikes; in winter, downhill and cross-country skiing dominates people’s minds and bodies. Mt Hood is accessible year-round from Portland on US 26 and from Hood River on Hwy 35. Together with the Columbia River Hwy, these routes comprise the Mt Hood Loop, a popular scenic drive. Government Camp is at the pass over Mt Hood and is the center of business on the mountain.

2 Activities Skiing

Hood is rightly revered for its skiing. There are six ski areas on the mountain, including Timberline (% 503-272-3158; www.timberlinelodge.com), which lures snow-lovers with the only year-round skiing in the US. Closer to Portland, Mt Hood SkiBowl (% 503-2723206; www.skibowl.com) is no slacker either. It’s the nation’s largest night-ski area and popular with city slickers who ride up for an evening of powder play from the metro

zone. The largest ski area on the mountain is Mt Hood Meadows (% 503-337-2222; www. skihood.com), and the best conditions usually prevail here. Hiking

The Mt Hood National Forest protects an astounding 1200 miles of trails. A Northwest Forest Pass ($5) is required at most trailheads. One popular trail loops 7 miles from near the village of Zigzag to beautiful Ramona Falls, which tumbles down mossy columnar basalt. Another heads 1.5 miles up from US 26 to Mirror Lake, continues 0.5 miles around the lake, then tracks 2 miles beyond to a ridge. The 41-mile Timberline Trail circumnavigates Mt Hood through scenic wilderness. Noteworthy portions include the hike to McNeil Point and the short climb to Bald Mountain. From Timberline Lodge, Zigzag Canyon Overlook is a 4.5-mile round-trip. At the time of writing, however, part of the trail was washed out, with no timetable for when it would be repaired. Climbing Mt Hood should be taken seriously, as deaths do occur, though dogs have made it to the summit and the climb can be done in a long day. Contact Timberline Mountain Guides (% 541-312-9242; www.timberlinemtguides.com) for guided climbs.

4 Sleeping & Eating Reserve campsites (% 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov) in summer. On US 26 are streamside campgrounds Tollgate and Camp Creek. Large and popular Trillium Lake has great views of Mt Hood.

oTimberline Lodge

LODGE $$

(% 800-547-1406; www.timberlinelodge.com; 27500 Timberline Rd; d from $135; W s ) More

a community treasure than a hotel, this gorgeous historical lodge offers a variety of rooms, from bunk rooms that sleep up to 10 to deluxe fireplace rooms. Huge wooden beams tower over multiple fireplaces, there’s a year-round heated outdoor pool, and the ski lifts are close by. Enjoy awesome views of Mt Hood, nearby hiking trails, two bars and a good dining room. Rates can vary widely, so check ahead. Huckleberry Inn INN $$ (% 503-272-3325; www.huckleberry-inn.com; 88611 E Government Camp Loop; r $90-160; W )

Simple and comfortably rustic rooms are

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available here, and there are bunk rooms that sleep up to 14. It’s in a great central location in Government Camp, and has a casual restaurant (which doubles as the hotel’s reception). Peak holiday rates go up 20%. Mt Hood Brewing Co PUB $ (% 503-272-3172; www.mthoodbrewing.com; 87304 E Government Camp Loop, Government Camp; mains $12-18; h 11am-10pm) Govern-

Rendezvous Grill & Tap Room AMERICAN $$ (% 503-622-6837; www.rendezvousgrill.net; 67149 E US 26, Welches; mains lunch $10-17, dinner $18-23; h 11:30am-9pm) In a league of its own is this

excellent restaurant with outstanding dishes such as wild salmon with caramelized shallots and artichoke hash or chargrilled pork chop in rhubarb chutney. Lunch means gourmet sandwiches, burgers and salads on the outdoor patio.

88 Information If you’re approaching from Hood River, visit the Hood River Ranger Station (% 541-3526002; 6780 Hwy 35, Parkdale; h 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri). The Zigzag Ranger Station (% 503622-3191; 70220 E Hwy 26; h 7:45am-4:30pm Mon-Sat) is more handy for Portland arrivals. Mt Hood Information Center (% 503-272-3301; 88900 E US 26; h 9am-5pm) is in Government Camp. The weather changes quickly here; carry chains in winter.

88 Getting There & Away From Portland, Mt Hood is one hour (56 miles) by car along Hwy 26. Alternatively, you can take the prettier and longer approach via Hwy 84 to Hood River, then Hwy 35 south (1¾ hours, 95 miles). The Central Oregon Breeze (% 800847-0157; www.cobreeze.com) shuttle between Bend and Portland stops briefly at Government Camp, 6 miles from the Timberline Lodge. There are regular shuttles (% 503-286-9333; www. seatosummit.net) from Portland to the ski areas during the winter.

Sisters Straddling the Cascades and high desert, where mountain pine forests mingle with desert sage and juniper, is the darling town of Sisters. Once a stagecoach stop and a trade town for loggers and ranchers, today Sisters is a bustling tourist destination

fivepinelodge.com; 1021 Desperado Trail; d $170293, cabins $179-329; ai W s# ). On the quieter and cheaper side is Sisters Motor Lodge (% 541-549-2551; www.sistersmotorlodge. com; 511 W Cascade St; r $129-229; aW # ), of-

fering 11 cozy rooms with homey decor (and some with kitchenettes). For great gourmet treats head to Porch (% 541-549-3287; www.theporch-sisters.com; 243 N Elm St; small plates $8-17, mains $24-29; h 59pm Fri-Tue), which offers morsels such as

truffle fries and creamy butternut-squash risotto. Three Creeks Brewing (% 541-549-

1963; www.threecreeksbrewing.com; 721 Desperado Ct; h 11:30am-9pm Sun-Thu, till 10pm Fri & Sat) is

the place to go for home brew and pub grub.

88 Information Chamber of Commerce (% 541-549-0251; www.sisterscountry.com; 291 Main St; h 10am4pm Mon-Sat)

88 Getting There & Away Valley Retriever (% 541-265-2253; www.kokkola-bus.com/VRBSchedule; cnr Cascade & Spruce Sts) Buses connect Sisters with Bend, Newport, Corvallis, Salem, McMinnville and Portland.

Bend Bend is where all outdoor-lovers should live – it’s an absolute paradise. You can ski fine powder in the morning, paddle a kayak in the afternoon and take in a game of golf into the evening. Or would you rather go mountain biking, hiking, mountaineering, stand-up paddleboarding, fly-fishing or rock climbing? It’s all close by, and top-drawer. Plus, you’ll probably be enjoying it all in great weather, as the area gets nearly 300 days of sunshine each year.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O I nformation r e g on C asca d e s

ment Camp’s only brewery-restaurant offers a friendly, family-style atmosphere and pub fare including hand-tossed pizzas, sandwiches and short ribs.

whose main street is lined with boutiques, art galleries and eateries housed in Western-facade buildings. Visitors come for the mountain scenery, spectacular hiking, fine cultural events and awesome climate – there’s plenty of sun and little precipitation here. And while the town’s atmosphere is a bit upscale, people are still friendly and the back streets are still undeveloped enough that deer are often seen nibbling in neighborhood garden plots. At the southern end of Sisters, the city park has camp sites ($15), but no showers. For ultracomfort, bag a room in the luxurious Five Pine Lodge (% 866-974-5900; www.

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With the lovely Deschutes River carving its way through the heart of the city, Bend also offers a vibrant and attractive downtown area full of shops, galleries and upscale dining. South of downtown, the Old Mill District has been renovated into a large shopping area full of brand-name stores, fancy eateries and modern movie theaters. Bend has also become a beer-lover’s dream; it has more than a dozen breweries per capita more than any other city in Oregon. Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O S irgehts g on C asca d e s

1 Sights oHigh Desert Museum

MUSEUM

(% 541-382-4754; www.highdesertmuseum.org; 59800 S US 97; adult/child 5-12yr $15/9; h 9am5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr) Don’t miss

this excellent museum about 3 miles south of Bend on US 97. It charts the exploration and settlement of the West, using reenactments of a Native American camp, a hardrock mine and an old Western town. The region’s natural history is also explored; kids love the live snake, tortoise and trout exhibits, and watching the birds of prey and otters is always fun.

2 Activities Cycling

Bend is a mountain biking paradise, with hundreds of miles of awesome bike trails to explore. For a good bike-trails map, get the Bend Oregon Adventure Map ($12), available at the Visit Bend tourist office and elsewhere. The king of Bend’s mountain biking trails is Phil’s Trail network, which offers a variety of excellent fast single-track forest trails just minutes from town. If you want to catch air, don’t miss the Whoops Trail. Cog Wild BICYCLE TOUR (% 541-385-7002; www.cogwild.com; 255 SW Century Dr, ste 201; half-day tours from $60) Offers

organized tours and shuttles to the best trailheads. Separate rental shop downstairs. Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park ROCK CLIMBING (% 800-551-6949; www.oregonstateparks.org; 9241 NE Crooked River Dr; day use $5) About 25

miles northeast of Bend lies Smith Rock State Park, where 800ft cliffs over the Crooked River offer gorgeous lead and trad climbing. The park’s 1800-plus routes are among the best in the nation.

Smith Rock Climbing Guides Inc ROCK CLIMBING (% 541-788-6225; www.smithrockclimbingguides. com) Offers a variety of climbing instruction

(basic, lead, trad, multi-pitch, aid and self-rescue), along with guided climbs to famous routes at Smith Rock State Park.

Skiing Mount Bachelor Ski Resort SKIING (% 800-829-2442; www.mtbachelor.com) Bend

hosts Oregon’s best skiing, 22 miles southwest of town, at the glorious Mount Bachelor Ski Resort, famous for its ‘dry’ powdery snow, long season and ample terrain (it’s the largest ski area in the Pacific Northwest). The mountain has long advocated cross-country skiing in tandem with downhill, and maintains 35 miles of groomed trails.

4 Sleeping & Eating Mill Inn INN $$ (% 541-389-9198; www.millinn.com; 642 NW Colorado Ave; d incl breakfast $95-165; n W ) A

10-room boutique hotel with small, classy rooms decked out with velvet drapes and comforters; four share outside bathrooms. Full breakfast and hot-tub use is included, and there are nice small patios on which to hang out.

oMcMenamins Old

St Francis School HOTEL $$ (% 541-382-5174; www.mcmenamins.com; 700 NW Bond St; d $135-185, 5-bedroom cottage from $350; a W ) One of McMenamins’ best venues, this

old schoolhouse has been remodeled into a classy 19-room hotel – two rooms even have side-by-side clawfoot tubs. The fabulous tiled saltwater Turkish bath is worth the stay alone, though nonguests can soak for $5. A restaurant-pub, three bars, a movie theater and creative artwork complete the picture.

oOxford Hotel

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

(% 541-382-8436; www.oxfordhotelbend.com; 10 NW Minnesota Ave; d $389-599; aW # ) S

Bend’s premier boutique hotel is deservedly popular. The smallest rooms are still huge (470 sq ft) and are decked out with ecofriendly features such as soy-foam mattresses and cork flooring. High-tech aficionados will love the smart-panel desks. Suites (with kitchen and steam-shower) are available, and the basement restaurant is slick.

22 3

oChow

AMERICAN $

(% 541-728-0256; www.chowbend.com; 1110 NW Newport Ave; mains $8-15; h 7am-2pm) S The

Jackson’s Corner AMERICAN $ (% 541-647-2198; www.jacksonscornerbend.com; 845 NW Delaware Ave; mains $10-16; h 7am-9pm; c ) This homey corner restaurant, very pop-

ular with families, has a market-like feel and boasts seasonal ingredients. Homemade pizzas and pastas are always good, as are the organic salads (add on chicken, steak or prawns). There’s a kids’ menu and outside seating for sunny days; just remember to order at the counter first. Also at 1500 NE Cushing Dr. 10 Barrel Brewing Co AMERICAN $ (% 541-678-5228; www.10barrel.com; 1135 NW Galveston; mains $10-14; h 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri-Sun) Located in a charming house,

this popular brewery-restaurant has a great patio for warm nights. The tasty pub-food menu includes starters such as fried brussels sprouts and steak and gorgonzola nachos, while mains run the gamut from gourmet burgers to fish tacos with chipotle slaw. Sports-lovers should head to the bar in back. Zydeco AMERICAN $$$ (% 541-312-2899; www.zydecokitchen.com; 919 NW Bond St; mains $16-30; h 11:30am-2:30pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun) One of Bend’s

most acclaimed restaurants, and with good reason. Start with the duck fries (french fries fried in duck fat) or tri-colored beet salad with goat’s cheese, then move onto your main course: pan-roasted steelhead, crawfish jambalaya or roasted wild mushroom pork tenderloin. Reserve ahead.

88 Information Visit Bend (% 800-949-6086; www.visitbend. com; 750 NW Lava Rd; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) Great information, plus maps and recreation passes.

Central Oregon Breeze (www.cobreeze.com) offers transport to Portland two or more times daily. Connect to Sisters, Willamette Valley destinations and the coast with Valley Retriever (www.kokkola-bus.com/VRBSchedule) and Porter Stage Lines (www.pslporterstageline.com). Cascades East Transit (% 541-385-8680; www.cascadeseasttransit.com) The regional bus company in Bend, covering La Pine, Mt Bachelor, Sisters, Prineville and Madras. It also provides bus transport within Bend. High Desert Point (% 541-923-1732; www. highdesert-point.com) Buses link Bend with Chemult, where the nearest train station is located (65 miles south). High Desert Point also has bus services to Eugene, Ontario and Burns.

Newberry National Volcanic Monument Newberry National Volcanic Monument (day use $5) showcases 400,000 years of dramatic seismic activity. Start your visit at the Lava

Lands Visitor Center (% 541-593-2421; 58201 S Hwy 97; h 9am-5pm late May-Sep, reduced hours Oct-late May), 13 miles south of Bend. Nearby attractions include Lava Butte, a perfect cone rising 500ft, and Lava River Cave, Or-

egon’s longest lava tube. Four miles west of the visitor center is Benham Falls, a good picnic spot on the Deschutes River. Newberry Crater was once one of the most active volcanoes in North America, but after a large eruption a caldera was born. Close by are Paulina Lake and East Lake, deep bodies of water rich with trout, while looming above is 7985ft Paulina Peak.

Crater Lake National Park It’s no exaggeration: Crater Lake is so blue, you’ll catch your breath. And if you get to see it on a calm day, the surrounding cliffs are reflected in those deep waters like a mirror. It’s a stunningly beautiful sight. Crater Lake is Oregon’s only national park (% 541-5943000; www.nps.gov/crla; 7-day vehicle pass $15). The secret lies in the water’s purity. No rivers or streams feed the lake, meaning its content is made up entirely of rain and melted snow. It is also exceptionally deep – at 1949ft, it’s the deepest lake in the US. The classic tour is the 33-mile rim drive (open from approximately June to mid-October), but there are also exceptional hiking and

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O I nformation r e g on C asca d e s

signature poached-egg dishes here are spectacular and beautifully presented, coming with sides such as crab cakes, house-cured ham and corn-meal-crusted tomatoes (don’t miss their housemade hot sauces). Gourmet sandwiches and salads are served for lunch, some with an Asian influence. Much of the produce is grown in the garden, and there are good cocktails, too.

88 Getting There & Around

224

cross-country skiing opportunities. Note that because the area receives some of the highest snowfalls in North America, the rim drive and north entrance are sometimes closed up until early July. You can stay from late May to midOctober at the Cabins at Mazama Village

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O S irgehts g on C oast

(% 888-774-2728; www.craterlakelodges.com; d $144; h late May–mid-Oct) or the majestic and historic Crater Lake Lodge (% 888-774-2728; www.craterlakelodges.com; d $169-295; h late May–mid-Oct; nW ), opened in 1915. Campers head to Mazama Campground (% 888-7742728; www.craterlakelodges.com; tent/RV sites from $22/31; W# ). For more information, head to Steel Visitors Center (% 541-594-3000; h 9am-5pm May-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Apr).

Oregon Coast

Thanks to a far-sighted government in the 1910s, Oregon’s 363-mile Pacific Coast was set aside as public land. This magnificent littoral is paralleled by US 101, a scenic highway that winds its way through towns, resorts, state parks (more than 70 of them) and wilderness areas. Everyone from campers to gourmet-lovers will find a plethora of ways to enjoy this exceptional region, which is especially popular in summer (reserve accommodations in advance).

Astoria Astoria sits at the 5-mile-wide mouth of the Columbia River and was the first US settlement west of the Mississippi. The city has a long seafaring history and has seen its old harbor, once home to poor artists and writers, attract fancy hotels and restaurants in recent years. Inland are many historical houses, including lovingly restored Victorians – a few converted into romantic B&Bs.

1 Sights Adding to the city’s scenery is the 4.1-mile Astoria-Megler Bridge, the longest continuous truss bridge in North America, which crosses the Columbia River into Washington state. See it from the Astoria Riverwalk, which follows the trolley route. Pier 39 is an interesting covered wharf with informal cannery museum and a couple of places to eat. Columbia River Maritime Museum MUSEUM (% 503-325-2323; www.crmm.org; 1792 Marine Dr; adult/child $12/5; h 9:30am-5pm) Astoria’s

seafaring heritage is well interpreted at this wave-shaped museum. It’s hard to miss the Coast Guard boat, frozen in action, through a huge outside window. Other exhibits highlight the salmon-packing industry, local lighthouses and the river’s commercial history; also check out the Columbia River Bar exhibit and 3-D theater. Flavel House HISTORIC BUILDING (% 503-325-2203; www.cumtux.org; 441 8th St; adult/child $6/2; h 10am-5pm) The extravagant

Flavel House was built by Captain George Flavel, one of Astoria’s leading citizens during the 1880s. This Queen Anne house has been repainted in its original colors and the grounds have been returned to Victorianera landscaping; it has great views of the Columbia River, too. Astoria Column LANDMARK (% 503-325-2963; www.astoriacolumn.org; 1 Coxcomb Dr; parking $2; h 9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) Rising high on Coxcomb Hill,

the Astoria Column (built in 1926) is a 125ft tower painted with scenes from the westward sweep of US exploration and settlement. The top of the column (up 164 steps) offers excellent views over the area. Fort Stevens State Park PARK (% 503-861-3170 ext 21; www.oregonstateparks. org; 100 Peter Iredale Rd, Hammond; day use $5)

Ten miles west of Astoria, this park holds the historical military installation that once guarded the mouth of the Columbia River. Near the Military Museum (% 503-861-2000; h 10am-6pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr) F are gun batteries dug into sand dunes – interesting remnants of the fort’s mostly demolished military stations (truck and walking tours available). There’s a popular beach at the small Peter Iredale 1906 shipwreck, and good ocean views from parking lot C. There’s also camping and 12 miles of paved bike trails.

4 Sleeping & Eating Norblad Hotel & Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 503-325-6989; www.norbladhotel.com; 443 14th St; dm $29, d $59-99; W # ) This central

hostel-hotel offers six simple but elegant, private rooms, most with shared bathroom (just one is en suite). There are also several dorm rooms and a communal kitchen. Some rooms have flat-screen TVs and views of the river.

22 5

LEWIS & CLARK: JOURNEY’S END

Commodore Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (% 503-325-4747; www.commodoreastoria. com; 258 14th St; d with shared/private bath from $89/199; n W ) Hip travelers should beeline

to this slick and trendy hotel, which offers small, chic, minimalist rooms. Choose either private bathrooms or go Euro-style (sinks in rooms, but baths down the hall; ‘deluxe’ rooms have better views). There’s a great living-room-style lobby with attached cafe. Room 309 has the best river view. Blue Scorcher Bakery Café CAFE $ (% 503-338-7473; www.bluescorcher.com; 1493 Duane St; mains $7-13; h 7am-4pm; v c ) S This

artsy, organic co-op coffeehouse and bakery with free wi-fi boasts tasty salads, sandwiches, pizza, and egg dishes for breakfast. Vegetarian/vegan friendly; doughnut-free.

Fort George Brewery PUB $ (% 503-325-7468; www.fortgeorgebrewery.com; 1483 Duane St; mains $9-14; h 11am-11pm MonThu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-11pm Sun) Atmos-

pheric brewery-restaurant in a historical building – this was the original settlement site of Astoria. Today you can get gourmet burgers, house-made sausages, organic salads and a few eclectic dishes. Afternoon brewery tours on weekends.

88 Information Visitors Center (% 503-325-6311; www. oldoregon.com; 111 W Marine Dr; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Sells permits such as the Oregon Pacific Coast Passport and State Park Recreation Pass.

88 Getting There & Away Northwest Point (% 503-484-4100; www. northwest-point.com) Daily buses head to

Seaside, Cannon Beach and Portland; check the website for schedules. Sunset Empire Transit (% 503-861-7433; www.ridethebus.org; 900 Marine Dr) Local transport; buses also head to Warrenton, Cannon Beach and Seaside.

Cannon Beach Charming Cannon Beach is one of the most popular and upscale beach resorts on the Oregon coast. The streets are full of boutiques and art galleries, and lined with colorful flowers. Lodging is expensive, and the streets are jammed; on a warm sunny Saturday, you’ll spend a good chunk of time just finding a parking spot.

1 Sights & Activities Photogenic Haystack Rock, a 295ft sea stack, is the most spectacular landmark on the Oregon coast and is accessible from the beach at low tide. Birds cling to its ballast cliffs and tide pools ring its base. The coast to the north, protected inside Ecola State Park (% 503-436-2844; www. oregonstateparks.org; day use $5), is the Oregon

you may have already visited in your dreams: sea stacks, crashing surf, hidden beaches and gorgeous pristine forest. The park is 1.5 miles from town and is crisscrossed by paths, including part of the Oregon Coast Trail, which leads over Tillamook Head to the town of Seaside. The Cannon Beach area is good for surfing, though not the beach itself. The best spots are Indian Beach in Ecola State Park, 3 miles to the north, and Oswald West State Park, 10 miles south. Cleanline Surf Shop (% 503-738-2061; www.cleanlinesurf.com; 171 Sunset Blvd) is a friendly local shop that

rents out boards and mandatory wetsuits.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O I nformation r e g on C oast

In November 1805 William Clark and his fellow explorer Meriwether Lewis of the Corps of Discovery staggered, with three dozen others, into a sheltered cove on the Columbia River, 2 miles west of the present-day Astoria-Megler Bridge, completing what was indisputably the greatest overland trek in American history. After the first truly democratic ballot in US history (in which a woman and a black slave both voted), the party elected to make their bivouac 5 miles south of Astoria at Fort Clatsop, where the Corps spent a miserable winter in 1805–06. Today this site is called the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park (% 503-861-2471; www.nps.gov/lewi; 92343 Fort Clatsop Rd; adult/child $3/free; h 9am-6pm mid-Jun–Aug, to 5pm Sep–mid-Jun), where you’ll find a reconstructed Fort Clatsop, along with a visitors center and historical reenactments in summer.

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SCENIC DRIVE: THREE CAPES

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O S lreeegpin on gC oast & Eatin g

Cape Meares, Cape Lookout and Cape Kiwanda, about halfway between Cannon Beach and Newport, are some of the coast’s most stunning headlands, strung together on a slow, winding and sometimes bumpy 40-mile alternative to US 101. It’s a worthwhile drive, though in March 2013 a section of road north of Cape Meares began sinking and was closed. Repairs are ongoing, so you might have to drive to Cape Meares via Netarts and Oceanside, then backtrack. The forested headland at Cape Meares offers good views from its 38ft-tall lighthouse (Oregon’s shortest). Short trails lead to Oregon’s largest Sitka spruce and the ‘Octopus Tree,’ another Sitka shaped like a candelabra. A panoramic vista atop sheer cliffs that rise 800ft above the Pacific makes Cape Lookout State Park a highlight. In winter, the end of the cape, which juts out nearly a mile, is thronged with whale-watchers. There are wide sandy beaches, hiking trails and a popular campground near the water. Finally there’s Cape Kiwanda, a sandstone bluff that rises just north of the little town of Pacific City. You can hike up tall dunes, or drive your truck onto the beach. It’s the most developed of the three capes, with plenty of services nearby (don’t miss Pelican Pub & Brewery (% 503-965-7007; www.yourlittlebeachtown.com/pelican; 33180 Cape Kiwanda Dr, Pacific City; mains $12-32; h 8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) if you like beer). Watch the dory fleet launch their craft or, after a day’s fishing, land as far up the beach as possible.

4 Sleeping & Eating Cannon Beach Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (% 503-436-1392; www.cannonbeachhotel.com; 1116 S Hemlock St; d from $139; W ) If you don’t

need much space, check out this classy, centrally located hotel with just 10 rooms. Standard rooms are lovely, but very small; even the regular suites are tight. A good breakfast at the cafe on the premises is included. Blue Gull Inn Motel MOTEL $$ (% 800-507-2714; www.haystacklodgings.com; 487 S Hemlock St; d $119-219; W# ) These are some

of the more affordable rooms in town, with comfortable atmosphere and toned-down decor, except for the colorful Mexican headboards and serapes on the beds. Kitchenette and Jacuzzi units are available. It’s run by Haystack Lodgings, which also manages six other properties in town and does vacation rentals. Sleepy Monk Coffee CAFE $ (% 503-436-2796; www.sleepymonkcoffee. com; 1235 S Hemlock St; h 8am-3pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 4pm Fri-Sun) S For organic, certi-

fied-fair-trade coffee, try this little coffee shop on the main street. Sit on an Adirondack chair in the tiny front yard and enjoy the rich brews, all tasty and roasted on the premises. Good homemade pastries, too.

Newman’s at 988 FRENCH, ITALIAN $$$ (% 503-436-1151; www.newmansat988.com; 988 Hemlock St; mains $21-35; h 5:30-9pm daily Jul– mid-Oct, Tue-Sun mid-Oct–Jun) Expect a fine

dining experience at this small, quality restaurant on the main drag. Award-winning chef John Newman comes up with a fusion of French and Italian dishes such as marinated rack of lamb and char-grilled portabello mushrooms with spinach and Gorgonzola. Desserts are sublime; reserve ahead.

88 Information Chamber of Commerce (% 503-436-2623; www.cannonbeach.org; 207 N Spruce St; h 10am-5pm) Has good local information, including tide tables.

88 Getting There & Away Northwest Point (% 541-484-4100; www.northwest-point.com) buses head from Astoria to Portland (and vice versa) every morning, stopping at Cannon Beach; buy tickets at the Beach Store, next to Cannon Beach Surf. The Cannon Beach Shuttle (% 503-861-7433; www.ridethebus.org), also known as ‘the Bus’, runs the length of Hemlock St to the end of Tolovana Beach; the schedule varies seasonally. Both buses go to Seaside and Astoria, too. Wave (www.tillamookbus.com) buses go south towards Manzanita and Lincoln City several times daily.

22 7

Yachats & Around

Home to Oregon’s largest commercial fishing fleet, Newport is a lively tourist city with several fine beaches and a world-class aquarium. In 2011 it became the host of NOAA, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Good restaurants – along with some tacky attractions, gift shops and barking sea lions – abound in the historic bay-front area, while bohemian Nye Beach offers art galleries and a friendly village atmosphere. The area was first explored in the 1860s by fishing crews who found oyster beds at the upper end of Yaquina Bay.

One of the Oregon coast’s best-kept secrets is the neat and friendly little town of Yachats (ya-hots). People come here and to the small remote inns and B&Bs just south of town to get away from it all, which isn’t hard to do along this relatively undeveloped coast. Three miles to the south, lofty Cape Perpetua was first sighted by Captain Cook in 1778. Volcanic intrusions have formed a beautifully rugged shoreline, with dramatic features such as the Devil’s Churn, where powerful waves crash through a 30ft inlet. For an easy hike, take the paved Captain Cook Trail (a 1.2-mile round trip) down to tide pools near Cooks Chasm, where at high tide the geyser-like spouting horn blasts water out of a sea cave. For information head to the Cape Perpetua Visitor

1 Sights The world-class Oregon Coast Aquari-

um (% 541-867-3474; www.aquarium.org; 2820 SE Ferry Slip Rd; adult/child 3-12yr/child 13-17yr $19.95/12.95/17.95; h 9am-6pm May-Aug, to 5pm Sep-Apr; c ) is an unmissable attraction,

featuring a sea-otter pool, surreal jellyfish tanks and Plexiglas tunnels through a shark tank. Nearby, the Hatfield Marine Science

Center (% 541-867-0100; www.hmsc.oregonstate.edu; 2030 SE Marine Science Dr; h 10am5pm daily Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Thu-Mon Sep-May) F is much smaller, but still worthwhile.

For awesome tide-pooling and views, don’t miss the Yaquina Head Outstanding Area (% 541-574-3100; 750 NW Lighthouse Dr; vehicle fee $7; h 8am-sunset, interpretive center 10am6pm), site of the coast’s tallest lighthouse and

an interesting interpretive center.

4 Sleeping & Eating Campers can head to large and popular

South Beach State Park (% 541-867-4715; www.oregonstateparks.org; tent sites/RV sites/ yurts $21/29/44; # ), two miles south on US 101. Book-lovers can stay at the Sylvia Beach Hotel (% 541-265-5428; www.sylviabeachhotel. com; 267 NW Cliff St; d $165-230), which has

simple but comfy rooms, each named after a famous author; reservations are mandatory. For tasty seafood, head to Local Ocean Seafoods (% 541-574-7959; www.localocean.net; 213 SE Bay Blvd; mains $10-28; h 11am-9pm) S –

it’s especially great for lunch, when the glass walls open to the port area.

88 Information Visitors Center (% 541-265-8801; www. newportchamber.org; 555 SW Coast Hwy; h 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

Center (% 541-547-3289; www.fs.usda.gov/siuslaw; 2400 US 101; vehicle fee $5; h 10am-5pm Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May).

Fifteen miles to the south on US 101 is the almost-tourist-trap, but fun, Sea Lion

Caves (% 541-547-3111; www.sealioncaves.com; 91560 US 101; adult/child 5-12yr $14/8; h 9am5pm), a noisy grotto filled with groaning sea

lions accessed via an elevator. Camp at Beachside State Park (% 541-

563-3220; www.oregonstateparks.org; tent sites/ RV sites/yurts $21/29/44; # ), five miles north of Yachats on US 101. The Ya’Tel Motel (% 541-547-3225; www.yatelmotel.com; cnr US 101 & 6th St; d $64-84; n i W # ) is a good, inex-

pensive place to sleep, and for snacks there’s the Green Salmon Coffee House (% 541-

547-3077; www.thegreensalmon.com; 220 US 101; mains $7-11; h 7:30am-2:30pm; v ) S.

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area Stretching for 50 miles between Florence and Coos Bay, the Oregon Dunes form the largest expanse of coastal dunes in the USA. They tower up to 500ft and undulate inland as far as three miles to meet coastal forests, harboring curious ecosystems that sustain an abundance of wildlife. Hiking trails, bridle paths, and boating and swimming areas are available, but avoid the stretch south of Reedsport as noisy dune buggies dominate. Find out more at the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area’s headquarters (% 541271-6000; www.fs.usda.gov/siuslaw; 855 Highway

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t O S irgehts g on C oast

Newport

228 Ave; h 8am-4:30pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug, Mon-Fri Sep-May) in Reedsport.

State parks with camping include popular Jessie M Honeyman (% 541-997-3641,

800-452-5687; www.oregonstateparks.org; 84505 US 101 S; tent sites/RV sites/yurts $21/28/44; # ), 3 miles south of Florence, and pleasant Umpqua Lighthouse (% 541-271-4118; www.oregonstateparks.org; 460 Lighthouse Rd; tent sites/RV sites/yurts/deluxe yurts from $19/26/40/80; # ), 4 miles south of Reed-

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S O io rgu ehts g th on e& rnA ctiviti O r e g one s

sport. There’s plenty of other camping in the area, too.

Port Orford Occupying a rare natural harbor and guarding plenty of spectacular views, the scenic hamlet of Port Orford sits on a headland wedged between two magnificent state parks. Cape Blanco State Park (% 541-3322973; www.oregonstateparks.org; US 101), nine miles to the north, is the second-most-westerly point in the continental US, and the promontory is often lashed by fierce 100mph winds. As well as hiking, visitors can tour the Cape Blanco Lighthouse (% 541-3322207; www.oregonstateparks.org; US 101; tour $2; h 10am-3:30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct) built in 1870;

it’s the oldest and highest operational lighthouse in Oregon. Six miles south of Port Orford, in Hum-

bug Mountain State Park (% 541-3326774), mountains and sea meet in aqueous

disharmony with plenty of angry surf. You can climb the 1750ft peak on a 3-mile trail through old-growth cedar groves. For an affordable stay try Castawayby-the-Sea Motel (% 541-332-4502; www. castawaybythesea.com; 545 W 5th St; d $75-165; iW# ). Food in this fishing village means a visit to slick Redfish (% 541-336-2200; www. redfishportorford.com; 517 Jefferson St; mains lunch $12-14, dinner $22-25; h 11am-3pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm & 5-9pm Sat & Sun) S for the

freshest seafood in town.

Southern Oregon

With a warm and sunny climate that belongs in nearby California, southern Oregon is the state’s banana belt. Rugged landscapes, scenic rivers and a couple of attractive towns top the highlights list.

Ashland Oregon was unknown territory to the Elizabethan explorers of William Shakespeare’s day, so it might seem a little strange to find that the pretty settlement of Ashland in southern Oregon has established itself as the English playwright’s second home. The irony probably wouldn’t have been lost on Shakespeare himself. ‘All the world’s a stage,’ the great Bard once opined, and fittingly people come from all over to see Ashland’s famous Shakespeare Festival, which has been held here under various guises since the 1930s. The ‘festival’ moniker is misleading; the shows here are a semipermanent fixture occupying nine months of the annual town calendar and attracting up to 400,000 theater-goers per season. Even without the shows, Ashland is an attractive town, propped up by various wineries, upscale B&Bs and fine restaurants.

1 Sights & Activities Lithia Park PARK (59 Winburn Way) Adjacent to Ashland’s three

splendid theaters (one of which is outdoors) lies what is arguably the loveliest city park in Oregon, and its 93 acres wind along Ashland Creek above the center of town. Unusually, the park is in the National Register of Historic Places. It is embellished with fountains, flowers, gazebos and an ice-skating rink (winter only). Schneider Museum of Art MUSEUM (% 541-552-6245; www.sou.edu/sma; 1250 Siskiyou Blvd; suggested donation $5; h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Ashland’s culture extends beyond

the OSF; if you like contemporary art, check out this Southern Oregon University museum. The university also puts on theater performances of its own, along with classical concerts and opera performances.

Jackson Wellsprings SPA (% 541-482-3776; www.jacksonwellsprings.com; 2253 Hwy 99; h 8am-midnight mid-Apr–mid-Oct, noon-midnight mid-Oct–mid-Apr ) For a good

soak check out this casual, New Age–style place, which boasts a mineral-fed swimming pool, private soaking tubs, saunas and steam rooms. There’s also yoga, massages and spa services, and you can camp or stay in tipis in summer. It’s 1 mile north of town. Note that Monday night is women only.

229

OREGON SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL

Mt Ashland Ski Resort SKIING (% 541-482-2897; www.mtashland.com) Powdery

snow is abundant at this resort, 16 miles southwest of town on 7533ft Mt Ashland.

Siskiyou Cyclery CYCLING (% 541-482-1997; www.siskiyoucyclery.com; 1729 Siskiyou Blvd; rental per hour $10-15; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Rent a bike and explore the coun-

tryside on Bear Creek Greenway, a 21-mile bike path between Ashland and the town of Central Point.

4 Sleeping Reserve ahead in summer when the thespians descend in droves. There are many B&Bs in town. Ashland Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 541-482-9217; www.theashlandhostel.com; 150 N Main St; dm $28, d $45-64; a i W ) Central

and somewhat upscale hostel (shoes off inside!). Most private rooms share bathrooms; some are connected to dorms. Hangout spaces include the cozy basement living room and the shady front porch. No alcohol or smoking on the premises. Call ahead, as reception times are limited. Ashland Commons HOSTEL $ (% 541-482-6753; www.ashlandcommons.com; 437 Williamson Way; dm from $26, s $45-65, d $6080; aW ) These unconventional dorm or

private room accommodations are provided within three large apartments. All vary in atmosphere, and are either two- or four-bedroom, with kitchen and living areas. Great for large groups, as entire apartments can be rented. Located in a mixed industrialresidential area just outside the center.

Palm BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (% 541-482-2636; www.palmcottages.com; 1065 Siskiyou Blvd; d $98-239; aW s# ) Fabulous

small motel remodeled into 16 charming garden cottage rooms and suites (some with kitchens). It’s an oasis of green on a busy avenue, complete with grassy lawns and a saltwater pool. A house nearby harbors three large suites ($299). Columbia Hotel HOTEL $$ (% 541-482-3726; www.columbiahotel.com; 262 1/2 E Main St; d $89-179; aW ) Awesomely lo-

cated ‘European-style’ hotel – which means most rooms share outside bathrooms. It’s the best deal in downtown Ashland, with 24 quaint vintage rooms (no TVs), a nice lobby and a historical feel. Park in back for fewer stairs to climb.

5 Eating & Drinking There are plenty of great eating choices in Ashland, which levies a 5% restaurant tax. Dinner reservations in summer are a good idea at the fancier spots. Morning Glory CAFE $ (% 541-488-8636; 1149 Siskiyou Blvd; mains $11-14; h 8am-1:30pm) This colorful, casual cafe is

one of Ashland’s best breakfast joints. Creative dishes include the Alaskan crab omelet, vegetarian hash with roasted chilis, and shrimp cakes with poached eggs. For lunch there’s gourmet salad and sandwiches. Go early or late to avoid a long wait. Agave MEXICAN $ (% 541-488-1770; www.agavetaco.net; 92 N Main St; tacos $3-4.25; h 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) Tasty and creative tacos are cooked

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S O lo reu eeg th pin on e rn g O r e g on

One of Southern Oregon’s highlights is Ashland’s wildly popular Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF). Despite being deeply rooted in Shakespearean and Elizabethan drama, the festival also features plenty of revivals and contemporary theater from around the world. Productions run from February to October in three theaters near Main and Pioneer Sts: the outdoor Elizabethan Theatre (h Jun-Oct), the Angus Bowmer Theatre and the intimate Thomas Theatre. Children under six are not allowed. There are no performances on Mondays. Performances sell out quickly; obtain tickets at www.osfashland.org. The box office (% 541-482-4331; 15 S Pioneer St; tickets $30-96) also has last-minute tickets. Be sure to book backstage tours well in advance. Check the OSF Welcome Center (76 N Main St; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) for other events, which may include scholarly lectures, play readings, concerts and preshow talks.

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up at this popular restaurant. There’s the regular stuff such as carnitas and grilled chicken, but for something more exotic go for the shredded duck or sautéed main lobster ($8.25). A few salads and tamales, too. Standing Stone Brewery AMERICAN $ (% 541-482-2448; www.standingstonebrewing. com; 101 Oak St; mains $9-15; h 11am-midnight)

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t S IOnformation o ru eg th on e rn O r e g on

Popular and hip brewery-restaurant with gourmet burgers, salads, sandwiches and wood-fired pizzas, along with a few seafood dishes. Wash it all down with some microbrews or a cocktail. Great back patio.

Caldera Tap House BREWERY (% 541-482-4677; www.calderabrewing.com; 590 Clover Lane; h 11am-11pm) This bright and airy

brewery-restaurant just off I-5 has pleasant outdoor seating and views of the countryside. It serves dishes such as pizza, housemade gnocchi, flat-iron steak and white truffle mac ‘n’ cheese (mains $10 to $21). Wash it all down with one of 40 beers on tap. Also located at 31 Water St in downtown Ashland, but the vibe is more local and the atmosphere darker.

88 Information Ashland Chamber of Commerce (% 541482-3486; www.ashlandchamber.com; 110 E Main St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) There is also an information booth at the Plaza (open summer weekends only).

Jacksonville This small but endearing ex-gold-prospecting town is the oldest settlement in southern Oregon and a National Historic Landmark. The main drag is lined with well-preserved buildings dating from the 1880s, now converted into boutiques and galleries. Musiclovers shouldn’t miss the September Britt Festival (www.brittfest.org; h Jun-Sep), a world-class musical experience with topname performers. Seek more enlightenment at the Chamber of Commerce (% 541-8998118; www.jacksonvilleoregon.org; 185 N Oregon St; h 10am-3pm daily May-Oct, Mon-Sat Nov-Apr).

Jacksonville is full of fancy B&Bs; for budget motels head 6 miles east to Medford. The Jacksonville Inn (% 541-899-1900; www. jacksonvilleinn.com; 175 E California St; d from $159; aW# ) is the most pleasant abode,

shoehorned downtown in an 1863 building

with regal antique-stuffed rooms. There’s a fine restaurant on-site.

Wild Rogue Wilderness Situated between the town of Grants Pass on I-5 and Gold Beach on the Oregon coast, the aptly named Wild Rogue Wilderness is anchored by the turbulent Rogue River, which cuts through 40 miles of untamed, roadless canyon. The area is known for challenging white-water rafting (classes III and IV) and long-distance hikes. The humble city of Grants Pass is the gateway to adventures along the Rogue. For information, the Chamber of Commerce (% 541-450-6180; www.visitgrantspass.org; 1995 NW Vine St; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) is right off I-5,

exit 58. For raft permits and backpacking advice, contact the Bureau of Land Management’s Smullin Visitors Center (% 541-4793735; www.blm.gov/or/resources/recreation/rogue; 14335 Galice Rd, Galice; h 7am-3pm mid-May–midOct) in Galice, 16 miles northwest of Grants

Pass. Rafting the Rogue is legendary, but not for the faint of heart. A typical trip takes three days and costs around $1000. A good outfitter is Rogue Wilderness Adventures (% 800-336-1647; www.wildrogue.com; 325 Galice Rd, Merlin). Kayaking the river is equally ex-

hilarating; for instruction and guidance, contact Sundance Kayak. (% 541-708-3601; www.sundancekayak.com; day trips from $95).

Another highlight of the region is the 42mile Rogue River Trail, once a supply route from Gold Beach. The full trek takes four to five days; day hikers might aim for Whiskey Creek Cabin, a 6-mile round-trip from the Grave Creek trailhead. The trail is dotted with rustic lodges ($130 to $165 per person including meals; reservations required) – try Black Bar (% 541-479-6507; www.blackbarlodge. com; Merlin; s/d from $230/260). There are also

primitive campgrounds along the way.

North Umpqua River This ‘Wild and Scenic’ river boasts worldclass fly-fishing, fine hiking and serene camping. The 79-mile North Umpqua Trail begins near Idleyld Park, 3 miles east of Glide, and passes through Steamboat en route to the Pacific Crest Trail. A popular sideline is pretty Umpqua Hot Springs, east of Steamboat near Toketee Lake. Not far away, stunning, two-tiered Toketee Falls

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(113ft) flows over columnar basalt, while Watson Falls (272ft) is one of the highest waterfalls in Oregon. For information, stop by Glide’s Colliding Rivers Information Center (% 541-496-0157; 18782 N Umpqua Hwy, Glide; h 9am-5pm May-Sep). Adjacent is the North Umpqua Ranger District (% 541496-3532; 18782 N Umpqua Hwy, Glide; h 8am4:30pm Mon-Fri).

496-3403; www.dogwoodmotel.com; Umpqua Hwy; d $70-75; aW# ).

28866 N

Oregon Caves National Monument & Preserve This very popular cave (there’s only one) lies 19 miles east of Cave Junction on Hwy 46. Three miles of passages are explored via 90-minute cave tours that include 520 rocky steps and dripping chambers running along the River Styx. Dress warmly, wear shoes with good traction and be prepared to get dripped on. Cave Junction, 28 miles south of Grants Pass on US 199 (Redwood Hwy), provides the region’s services – though the best area sleeps are at the Holiday Motel (% 541-5923003; www.holidaymotelkerby.com; 24810 Redwood Hwy; d $75-85; aW ), two miles north in

Kerby. For fancy lodgings right at the cave there’s the impressive Oregon Caves Chateau (% 541-592-3400; www.oregoncaveschateau.com; 20000 Caves Hwy; r $109-199; h MayOct); grab a milkshake at the old-fashioned

soda fountain here. Campers should head to

Cave Creek Campground (% 541-592-4000; campsites $10), 14 miles up Hwy 46, about 4

miles from the cave.

Eastern Oregon

Oregon east of the Cascades bears little resemblance to its wetter western cohort, either physically or culturally. Few people live here – the biggest town, Pendleton, numbers only 20,000 – and the region hoards high plateaus, painted hills, alkali lakebeds and the country’s deepest river gorge.

Within the soft rocks and crumbly soils of John Day country lies one of the world’s greatest fossil collections, laid down between six and 50 million years ago. Roaming the forests at the time were saber-toothed nimravids, pint-sized horses, bear-dogs and other early mammals. The national monument includes 22 sq miles at three different units: Sheep Rock Unit, Painted Hills Unit and Clarno Unit. Each has hiking trails and interpretive displays. To visit all of the units in one day requires quite a bit of driving, as more than 100 slow miles of curvy roads separate the fossil beds – it’s best to take it easy and spend the night somewhere. Visit the excellent Thomas Condon Paleontology Center (% 541-987-2333; www. nps.gov/joda; 32651 Hwy 19, Kimberly; h 10am5pm), 2 miles north of US 26 at the Sheep Rock Unit. Displays include a three-toed

horse and petrified dung-beetle balls, along with many other fossils and geologic history exhibits. If you feel like walking, take the short hike up the Blue Basin Trail. The Painted Hills Unit, near the town of Mitchell, consists of low-slung, colorfully banded hills formed about 30 million years ago. Ten million years older is the Clarno Unit, which exposes mud flows that washed over an Eocene-era forest and eroded into distinctive, sheer white cliffs topped with spires and turrets of stone. Rafting is popular on the John Day River, the longest free-flowing river in the state. Oregon River Experiences (% 800-827-1358; www.oregonriver.com) offers trips of up to five

days. There’s also good fishing for smallmouth bass and rainbow trout; find out more at the Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife (www.dfw.state.or.us). Most towns in the area have at least one hotel; these include the atmospheric His-

toric Oregon Hotel (% 541-462-3027; www. theoregonhotel.net; 104 E Main St; dm $20, d $49-69; W ) in Mitchell and the economical Dreamers Lodge (% 800-654-2849; www. dreamerslodge.com; 144 N Canyon Blvd; d from $70; a W # ) in the town of John Day (which

has most of the area’s services). There are several public campgrounds in the area (sites $5), including Lone Pine and Big Bend on Hwy 402.

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t East IOnformation r e geon rn O r e g on

Between Idleyld Park and Diamond Lake are dozens of riverside campgrounds; these include lovely Susan Creek and primitive Boulder Flat (no water). Area accommodations fill up quickly in summer; try the logcabin-like rooms at Dogwood Motel (% 541-

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

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Wallowa Mountains Area

Paci fi c N o rth w e s t East IOnformation r e geon rn O r e g on

The Wallowa Mountains, with their glacier-hewn peaks and crystalline lakes, are among the most beautiful natural areas in Oregon. The only drawback is the large number of visitors who flock here in summer, especially to the pretty Wallowa Lake area. Escape them all on one of several long hikes into the nearby Eagle Cap Wilderness, such as the 6-mile one-way jaunt to Aneroid Lake or the 8-mile trek on the Ice Lake Trail. Just north of the mountains, in the Wallowa Valley, Enterprise is a homely backcountry town with several motels; try the Ponderosa (% 541-426-3186; 102 E Greenwood St; d from $82; aW# ). If you like beer and good food, don’t miss the town’s microbrewery, Terminal Gravity Brewing (% 541-426-0158; www. terminalgravitybrewing.com; 803 SE School St; mains $9-12; h 11am-9pm Sun-Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat). Just

6 miles south is Enterprise’s fancy cousin, the upscale town of Joseph. Expensive bronze galleries and artsy boutiques line the main strip, along with some good eateries.

Hells Canyon North America’s deepest river gorge (yes, even deeper than the Grand Canyon when measured from the highest mountain peak) provides visitors with some wild and scenic vistas. The mighty Snake River has taken 13 million years to carve its path through the high plateaus of eastern Oregon to its present depth of 8000ft. The canyon itself is a true wilderness bereft of roads, but open to the curious and the brave. For perspective, drive 30 miles northeast from Joseph to Imnaha, where a slow-going 24mile gravel road leads up to the excellent lookout at Hat Point. From here you can see the Wallowa Mountains, Idaho’s Seven Devils, the Imnaha River and the wilds of the canyon itself. This road is open from late May until snowfall; give yourself two hours each way for the drive. For white-water action and spectacular scenery, head down to Hells Canyon Dam, 25 miles north of the small community of Oxbow. A few miles past the dam, the road ends at the Hells Canyon Visitor Center (h 8am-4pm May-Sep), which has good advice on the area’s campgrounds and hiking trails. Beyond here, the Snake River drops 1300ft in elevation through wild rapids accessible only by jet boat or raft. Hells Canyon Adventures (% 800-422-3568; www.hellscanyon adventures.com; jet-boat tours from $60; h May-

Sep) is the main operator running raft trips

and jet-boat tours (reservations required). The area has many campgrounds. Just outside Imnaha is the beautiful Imnaha

River Inn (% 541-577-6002; www.imnahariverinn.com; 73946 Rimrock Rd; s/d from $70/130), a

B&B replete with Hemingway-esque animal trophies, while Oxbow has the good-value Hells Canyon B&B (% 541-785-3373; www. hcbb.us; 49922 Homestead Rd; s/d $80/90; a W ). For more services, head to the towns

of Enterprise, Joseph and Halfway.

Steens Mountain & Alvord Desert The highest peak in southeastern Oregon, Steens Mountain (9773ft) is part of a massive, 30-mile-long fault-block range that was formed about 15 million years ago. On the western slope of the range, Ice Age glaciers bulldozed trenches that formed massive U-shaped gorges and hanging valleys. To the east, ‘the Steens’ – as the range is usually referred to – drop off to the Alvord Desert, 5000ft below. Beginning in Frenchglen, the gravel 59mile Steens Mountain Loop Rd is Oregon’s highest road and offers the range’s best sights with its awesome overlooks, and also has access to camping and hiking trails. You’ll see sagebrush, bands of junipers and aspen forests, and finally fragile rocky tundra at the top. Kiger Gorge Viewpoint is especially stunning; it’s 25 miles up from Frenchglen. It takes about three hours all the way around if you’re just driving through, but you’ll want to see the sights, so give yourself much more time. You can also see the eastern side of the Steens via the Fields-Denio Rd, which goes through the Alvord Desert between Hwys 205 and 78. Take a full tank of gas and plenty of water, and be prepared for weather changes at any time of year. Frenchglen (population 12) has the charming Frenchglen Hotel (% 541-493-2825; www. frenchglenhotel.com; 39184 Hwy 205; d from $75; h mid-Mar–Oct; a# ) with its small dining

room (reserve for dinners), a small store with seasonal gas pump and not much else. There are camping options on the Steens Mountain Loop Rd, such as the BLM’s pretty Page Springs, open year-round. A few other campgrounds (sites $6 to $8), further into the loop, are very pleasant, but accessible in summer only. Water is available at all of these campgrounds. Free backcountry camping is also allowed in the Steens. For more accommodation information in the region, check www. steensmountain.net/lodging.htm.

Rocky Mountains Includes 

Colorado..................... 235 Denver......................... 235 Wyoming......................271 Yellowstone National Park.............. 277 Grand Teton National Park..............284 Montana......................286 Glacier National Park....293 Idaho........................... 295

Best Places to Eat ¨¨Root Down (p241)

Why Go?

The high backbone of the lower 48, the Rockies are nature on steroids, with rows of snowcapped peaks, rugged canyons and wild rivers running buckshot over the western states. With its beauty and vitality, it’s no wonder that 100 years ago, this region beckoned ailing patients with last-ditch hopes for cures. The healing power of the Rocky Mountains persists. You can choose between tranquillity (try Wyoming, the USA’s least-populated state) and adrenaline (measured in vertical drop). Locals love a good frozen, wet or mud-spattered adventure and, with plenty of climbing, skiing and white-water paddling, it’s easy to join in. Afterwards, relax by soaking in hot springs under a roof of stars, sipping cold microbrews or feasting farm-to-table style. Lastly, don’t miss the super-sized charms of Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain, Grand Teton and Glacier National Parks, where the big five (grizzly bears, moose, bison, mountain lions and wolves) still roam wild.

¨¨Salt (p248) ¨¨Rickshaw (p298) ¨¨Sweet Melissa’s (p273) ¨¨Silk Road (p291)

When to Go Denver °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm

50/122

Best Places to Sleep ¨¨Curtis (p239) ¨¨Boise Guest House (p296) ¨¨Chautauqua Lodge (p246) ¨¨Alpine House (p275) ¨¨Old Faithful Inn (p282)

10/250

40/104

8/200

30/86 20/68

6/150

10/50

4/100

0/32

2/50

-10/14 -20/-4

0 J

Jun-Aug Long days of sunshine for biking, hiking, farmers markets and summer festivals.

Sep & Oct Fall foliage coincides with terrific lodging deals.

Jan & Feb Snowdusted peaks, powdery slopes and deluxe aprèsski parties.

234

History

Ro c ck k y M o u ntai ns H I S T O R Y

Before the late 18th century, when French trappers and Spaniards stepped in, the Rocky Mountain area was a land of many tribes, including the Nez Percé, the Shoshone, the Crow, the Lakota and the Ute. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark claimed enduring fame after the USA bought almost all of present-day Montana, Wyoming and eastern Colorado in the 1803 Louisiana Purchase. Their epic survey covered 8000 miles in three years. Their success urged on other adventurers, setting migration in motion. Wagon trains voyaged to the Rockies right into the 20th century, only temporarily slowed by the completion of the Transcontinental Railroad across southern Wyoming in the late 1860s. To accommodate settlers, the US purged the western frontier of the Spanish, the British and, in a truly shameful era, most of the Native American population. The gov-

ernment signed endless treaties to defuse Native American objections to increasing settlement but always reneged and shunted tribes onto smaller reservations. Gold-miners’ incursions into Native American territory in Montana and the building of US Army forts along the Bozeman Trail ignited a series of wars with the Lakota, Cheyenne, Arapaho and others. Gold and silver mania preceded Colorado’s entry to statehood in 1876. Statehood soon followed for Montana (1889), Wyoming (1890) and Idaho (1890). Miners, white farmers and ranchers were the people with power in the late 19th century. Mining, grazing and timber played major roles in regional economic development, sparking growth in financial and industrial support. They also subjected the region to boom-and-bust cycles by unsustainable resource management.

ROCKY MOUNTAINS IN… Two Weeks

Start your Rocky Mountain odyssey in the Denver area. Go tubing, vintage-clothes shopping or biking in outdoor-mad, boho Boulder, then soak up the liberal rays eavesdropping at a sidewalk cafe. Enjoy the vistas of the Rocky Mountain National Park before heading west on I-70 to play in the mountains around Breckenridge, which also has some of the best beginner slopes in Colorado. Go to ski and mountain-bike mecca Steamboat Springs before crossing the border into Wyoming. Get a taste of prairie-town life in Laramie, then stop in Lander, rock-climbing destination extraordinaire. Continue north to chic Jackson and the majestic Grand Teton National Park before hitting iconic Yellowstone National Park. Save at least three days for exploring this geyser-packed wonderland. Cross the state line into ‘big sky country’ and slowly make your way northwest through Montana, stopping in funky Bozeman and lively Missoula before visiting Flathead Lake. Wrap up your trip in Idaho, exploring Basque culture in up-and-coming Boise.

One Month With a month on your hands, you can really delve into the region’s off-the-beaten-path treasures. Follow the two-week itinerary, but dip southwest in Colorado – a developing wine region – before visiting Wyoming. Ride the 4WD trails around Ouray. Be sure to visit Mesa Verde National Park and its ancient cliff dwellings. In Montana, you’ll want to get lost backpacking in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex and visit Glacier National Park before the glaciers disappear altogether. In Idaho, spend more time playing in Sun Valley and be sure to explore the shops, pubs and yummy organic restaurants in delightful little Ketchum. With a one-month trip, you also have time to drive along a few of Idaho’s fantastically remote scenic byways. Make sure you cruise Hwy 75 from Sun Valley north to Stanley. Situated on the wide banks of the Salmon River, this stunning mountain hamlet is completely surrounded by national forestland and wilderness areas. Stanley is also blessed with world-class trout fishing and mild to wild rafting. Take Hwy 21 (the Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway) from Stanley to Boise. This scenic drive takes you through miles of dense ponderosa forests and past some excellent, solitary riverside camping spots – some of which come with their own natural hot-springs pools.

235

After the economy boomed post-WWII, national parks started attracting vacationers. Tourism is now a leading industry in all four states, with the military trailing close behind, particularly in Colorado.

Land & Climate

88 Getting There & Around Travel here takes time. The Rockies are sparsely developed, with attractions spread across long distances and linked by roads that meander between mountains and canyons. With limited public transportation, touring in a private vehicle is best. After all, road-tripping is one of the reasons to explore this scenic region. In rural areas services are few and far between – the I-80 across Wyoming is a notorious offender. It’s not unusual to go more than 100 miles between gas stations. When in doubt, fill up. The main travel hub is Denver International Airport (p245), although if you are coming on a domestic flight, check out Colorado Springs Airport (% 719-550-1900; www.springsgov. com; 7770 Milton E Proby Pkwy; W ) as well: fares are often lower, it’s quicker to navigate than DIA and it’s nearly as convenient. Both Denver and Colorado Springs offer flights on smaller planes to cities and resort towns around the region – Jackson, WY, Boise, ID, Bozeman, MT, and Aspen, CO, are just a few options. Salt Lake City, UT, also has connections with destinations in all four states.

COLORADO From double-diamond runs to stiff espressos, Colorado is all about vigor. This is also the state graced with the greatest concentration of high peaks – dubbed 14ers for their height over 14,000ft. But it isn’t all about the great outdoors. Universities and high-tech hubs show the state’s industrious side, though even workaholics might call in sick when snow starts falling.

88 Information Colorado Road Conditions (% 877-315-7623; www.state.co.us) Highway advisories. Colorado State Parks (% 303-470-1144; www. parks.state.co.us) Tent sites cost from $10 to $20 per night, depending on facilities, while RV hook-ups are $24 per night. Advance reservations for specific campsites are taken, and are subject to an $10 nonrefundable booking fee. Colorado Travel & Tourism Authority (% 800265-6723; www.colorado.com) State-wide tourism information.

Denver

Denver’s mile-high gravity is growing, pulling all objects in the Rocky Mountain West toward the glistening downtown towers, hopped-up brewpubs, hemped-out cannabis dispensaries, mountain trails, and growing western cosmopolitanism that’s fostered a burgeoning arts scene and brought great restaurants and hip bars to a cow town gone worldwide crazy. While most of the tourist action centers on the Downtown and Lower Downtown (LoDo) Districts, travelers in the know will also explore outlying neighborhoods like Highlands, Washington Park, Cherry Creek, Five Points, South Santa Fe and the River North (RiNo).

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns D C olor G en tting v e ra do T h e r e & Aro u nd

Extending from Alaska’s Brooks Range and Canada’s Yukon Territory all the way to Mexico, the Rockies sprawl northwest to southeast, from the steep escarpment of Colorado’s Front Range westward to Nevada’s Great Basin. Their towering peaks and ridges form the Continental Divide: to the west, waters flow to the Pacific, and to the east, toward the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico. For many travelers, the Rockies are a summer destination. It starts to feel summery around June, and the warm weather generally lasts until about mid-September (though warm outerwear is recommended). The winter, which brings in packs of powder hounds, doesn’t usually hit until late November, though snowstorms can start in the mountains as early as September. Winter usually lasts until March or early April. In the mountains, the weather is constantly changing (snow in summer is not uncommon), so always be prepared. Fall, when the aspens flaunt their autumn gold, and early summer, when wildflowers bloom, are wonderful times to visit.

Greyhound (% 800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com) has fixed routes throughout the Rockies, and offers the most comprehensive bus service. Two Amtrak (% toll-free 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) routes serve the region: California Zephyr Daily between Emeryville, CA (in the Bay Area), and Chicago, IL, with six stops in Colorado, including Denver, Fraser–Winter Park, Glenwood Springs and Grand Junction. Empire Builder Daily from Seattle, WA, or Portland, OR, to Chicago, IL, with 12 stops in Montana (including Whitefish and East and West Glacier) and one in Idaho (Sandpoint).

San Juan range’s picturesque Wild West towns in Southern Colorado (p263).

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Snak e R iv

6 Roaming the

groove on in the outdoor mecca of Boulder (p245).

5 Getting your

notch white water at the Middle Fork of the Salmon River (p299).

4 Paddling top-

climbing the craggy wilderness of Grand Teton National Park (p284).

3 Hiking and

Hollywood-gonecowboy in the party resort of Aspen (p257).

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238

1 Sights & Activities oDenver Art Museum

MUSEUM

(DAM; % ticket sales 720-865-5000; www.denverartmuseum.org; 100 W 14th Ave; adult/child/student $13/5/10, 1st Sat of each month free; h 10am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Fri; pc ; g 9, 16, 52, 83L RTD) S The DAM is home to one of the

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns D C ights S olor e n v e ra & doActi v iti e s

largest Native American art collections in the USA and puts on special avant-garde multimedia exhibits. The Western American Art section of the permanent collection is justifiably famous. This isn’t an old, stodgy art museum, and the best part of a visit is diving into the interactive exhibits – kids love this place. The museum’s landmark $110-million Frederic C Hamilton wing, designed by Daniel Libeskind, is quite simply awesome. Whether you see it as expanding crystals, juxtaposed mountains or just architectural indulgence, it’s an angular modern masterpiece. If you think the place looks weird from the outside, look inside: shapes shift with each turn thanks to a combination of design and uncanny natural-light tricks.

oConfluence Park

PARK

(2200 15th St; c ; g 10 RTD) S Where Cher-

ry Creek and South Platte River meet is the nexus and plexus of Denver’s sunshineloving culture. It’s a good place for an afternoon picnic, and there’s a short white-water park for kayakers and tubers. Clyfford Still Museum MUSEUM (% 720-354-4880; www.clyffordstillmuseum.org; 1250 Bannock St; adult/child $10/3; h 10am5pm, to 8pm Fri) Dedicated exclusively to the

work and legacy of 20th-century American abstract expressionist Clyfford Still, this fascinating museum’s collection includes over 2400 works by the powerful and narcissistic master of bold. In his will, Still insisted that his body of work only be exhibited in a singular space, so Denver built him a museum. History Colorado Center MUSEUM (% 303-447-8679; www.historycoloradocenter. org; 1200 Broadway; adult/student/child $10/8/8; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; p ) Dis-

cover Colorado’s frontier roots and hightech modern triumphs at this sharp, smart and charming museum. There are plenty of interactive exhibits, including a Jules Verne– esque ‘Time Machine’ that you push across a giant map of Colorado to explore seminal moments in the Centennial State’s history.

Museum of Contemporary Art GALLERY (% 303-298-7554; www.mcadenver.org; 1485 Delgany St; adult/student/child/after 5pm $8/5/1/5; h noon-7pm Tue-Thu, noon-8pm Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; g 6 RTD) This space was built with

interaction and engagement in mind, and Denver’s home for contemporary art can be provocative, delightful or a bit disappointing, depending on the show. The focus is on contemporary mixed-media works from American and international artists. Denver Museum of Nature & Science MUSEUM (% 303-370-6000; www.dmns.org; 2001 Colorado Blvd; museum adult/child $13/8, IMAX $10/8, Planetarium $5/4; h 9am-5pm; pc ; g 20, 32, 40 RTD) The Denver Museum of Nature &

Science is located on the eastern edge of City Park. This classic natural-science museum has excellent temporary exhibits, plus those cool panoramas we all loved as kids. The IMAX theater and Gates Planetarium are especially fun.

z Festivals & Events Cinco de Mayo CULTURAL (www.cincodemayodenver.com; h May; c ) Enjoy

salsa music and margaritas at one of the country’s biggest Cinco de Mayo celebrations, held over two days on the first weekend in May in Civic Center Park. With three stages and more than 350 exhibitors and food vendors, it’s huge fun. Cherry Creek Arts Festival ARTS (www.cherryarts.org; cnr Clayton St & E 3rd Ave; h Jul; c ) During this sprawling celebraion

of visual, culinary and performing arts, Cherry Creek’s streets are closed off and over 250,000 visitors browse the giant block party. The three-day event takes place around July 4. Great American Beer Festival BEER (% 303-447-0816; www.greatamericanbeerfestival. com; 700 14th St; $75; h Sep or Oct; c ; g 101 D-Line, 101 H-Line, g 1, 8, 30, 30L, 31, 48 RTD) S

Colorado has more microbreweries than any other US state, and this hugely popular festival sells out in advance. More than 500 breweries are represented, from the big players to the home-brew enthusiasts. Only the Colorado Convention Center is big enough for these big brewers and their fat brews.

2 39

4 Sleeping 11th Avenue Hotel HOTEL $ (% 303-894-0529; www.11thavenuehotel.com; 1112 Broadway; dm $19-22, r with/without bath $45/39; n aW ) This budget hotel has a good loca-

tion for art lovers in the Golden Triangle district. The lobby looks vaguely like something from a Jim Jarmusch movie. The upstairs rooms, some with attached bathrooms, are bare but clean. It’s safe, secure and a decent place for budget travelers. Denver International Youth Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 303-832-9996; www.youthhostels.com/denver; 630 E 16th Ave; dm $19; piW ; g 15, 15L, 20 RTD) If cheap really matters, then the Den-

oCurtis

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(% 303-571-0300; www.thecurtis.com; 1405 Curtis St; d $159-279; naiW ; g 15 RTD) It’s like

stepping into a doo-wop Warhol wonderworld at this temple to postmodern pop culture. Attention to detail – be it through the service or the decor in the rooms – is paramount at the Curtis, a one-of-a-kind hotel in Denver. There are 13 themed floors and each is devoted to a different genre of American pop culture. Rooms are spacious and very mod without being too out there to sleep. The hotel’s refreshingly different take on sleeping may seem too kitschy for some – you can get a wake-up call from Elvis – but if you’re tired of the same old international brands, this joint in the heart of downtown might be your tonic.

oQueen Anne Bed & Breakfast Inn B&B $$

(% 303-296-6666; www.queenannebnb.com; 2147 Tremont Pl; r $135-215; pnaW ) S Soft cham-

ber music wafting through public areas, fresh flowers, manicured gardens and evening wine tastings create a romantic ambience at this ecoconscious B&B in two late-1800s Victorian homes. Featuring period antiques, private hot tubs and exquisite hand-painted murals, each room has its own personality. Patterson Historic Inn HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (% 303-955-5142; www.pattersoninn.com; 420 E 11th Ave; r from $169; aiW ) This 1891 grande

dame was once a senator’s home. It’s now

Nickname Centennial State Population 5 million Area 104,247 sq miles Capital city Denver (population 649,495) Other cities Boulder (population 103,000), Colorado Springs (population 439,800) Sales tax 2.9% state tax, plus individual city taxes Birthplace of Ute tribal leader Chief Ouray (1833–80); South Park creator Trey Parker (b 1969); actor Amy Adams (b 1974); climber Tommy Caldwell (b 1978) Home of Naropa University (made famous by Beat poets), powder slopes, boutique beers Politics Swing state Famous for Sunny days (300 per year), the highest-altitude vineyards and longest ski run in the continental USA Kitschiest souvenir Deer-hoof bottle opener Driving distances Denver to Vail 100 miles, Boulder to Rocky Mountain National Park 38 miles

one of the best historic bed-and-breakfasts in town. The gardens are limited, but the Victorian charm, sumptuous breakfast and well-appointed chambers in the nine-room château will delight. Rooms come with modern touches such as silk robes, down comforters and flat-screen TVs. Brown Palace Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $$$ (% 303-297-3111; www.brownpalace.com; 321 17th St; r from $299; p n ai W ) Standing agape

under the stained-glass crowned atrium, it’s clear why this palace is shortlisted among the country’s elite historic hotels. There’s deco artwork, a four-star spa, imported marble and staff who discreetly float down the halls.

5 Eating While the downtown restaurants offer the greatest depth and variety in Denver, it’s also worth heading out to strollable neighborhoods like Highlands, Cherry Creek,

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns D C lolor S e enevping e ra do

ver International Youth Hostel might be the place for you. It’s basic and vaguely chaotic, but it has a ramshackle charm and a great downtown location. All dorms have attached bathroom facilities and the common area in the basement has a large-screen TV, library and computers for guests to use.

COLORADO FACTS

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Snooze BREAKFAST $ (% 303-297-0700; www.snoozeeatery.com; 2262 Larimer St; mains $6-12; h 6:30am-2:30pm MonFri, 7am-2:30pm Sat & Sun; ac ) S This ret-

ro-styled cheery breakfast-and-brunch spot is one of the hottest post-party breakfast

24 1

Denver æ Top Sights 1 Denver Art Museum ............................... C5 æ Sights 2 Clyfford Still Museum............................. C5 3 History Colorado Center........................ C5 4 Museum of Contemporary Art.............. A2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 5 Cinco de Mayo......................................... C5 6 Great American Beer Festival ............... B4

ú Eating 13 City O' City ............................................... C5

joints in town. It dishes up spectacularly crafted breakfast burritos and a smokin’ salmon benedict. The coffee’s always good, but you have the option of an early-morning Bloody Mary. The wait can be up to an hour on weekends! City O’ City VEGETARIAN $ (% 303-831-6443; www.cityocitydenver.com; 206 E 13th Ave; mains $8-15; h 7am-2am Mon-Fri, 8am2am Sat, 8am-midnight Sun; vc ; g 2, 9, 52 RTD)

S This popular vegan/vegetarian restau-

rant mixes stylish decor with an innovative spin on greens, grains, faux meat and granola. The menu offers tapas boards, big salads, some good transnational noodle dishes and the best vegan pizza pie in D-Town…the bar has drinks for accompaniment. The comfy dining room also features shifting artworks by local artists.

oBeatrice & Woodsley

TAPAS $$

(% 303-777-3505; www.beatriceandwoodsley. com; 38 S Broadway; small plates $9-13; h 5-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-10pm Sat & Sun; g 0 RTD)

Beatrice and Woodsley is the most artfully designed dining room in Denver. Chainsaws are buried into the wall to support shelves, there’s an aspen growing through the back of the dining room and the feel is that of a mountain cabin being elegantly reclaimed by nature. The menu of small plates is whimsical and European inspired.

Rioja...........................................................A3 Root Down................................................ A1 Snooze ......................................................C2 Steuben's Food Service..........................D4

û Drinking & Nightlife 18 Ace.............................................................D4 19 Bar Standard............................................C6 20 Denver Wrangler......................................C4 21 Great Divide Brewing Company ............C2 22 The Church...............................................C5 ý Entertainment 23 Comedy Works ........................................B3 24 Coors Field ...............................................B2 25 Denver Performing Arts Complex.........B4 26 El Chapultepec.........................................B2 27 Lannie's Clocktower Cabaret ................B3 28 Ogden Theatre.........................................D4 þ Shopping 29 Tattered Cover Bookstore .....................A3 30 Wax Trax Records ...................................D5

oSteuben’s Food Service

AMERICAN $$

(% 303-803-1001; www.steubens.com; 523 E 17th Ave; mains $8-21; h 11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; c ) S Although styled as a

midcentury drive-in, the upscale treatment of comfort food (mac and cheese, fried chicken, lobster rolls) and the solar-powered kitchen demonstrate Steubens’ contemporary smarts. In summer, open garage doors lining the street create a breezy atmosphere and after 10pm it has the most unbeatable deal around: a burger, hand-cut fries and beer for $7.

oRoot Down

MODERN AMERICAN $$$

(% 303-993-4200; www.rootdowndenver.com; 1600 W 33rd Ave; small plates $7-17, mains $18-28; h 5-10pm Sun-Thu, 5-11pm Fri & Sat, 10am-2:30pm Sat & Sun; v ) S In a converted gas station,

chef Justin Cucci has undertaken one of the city’s most ambitious culinary concepts, marrying sustainable ‘field-to-fork’ practices, high-concept culinary fusions and a low-impact, energy-efficient ethos. The menu changes seasonally, but consider yourself lucky if it includes the sweet-potato falafel or hoisin-duck confit sliders.

oRioja

MODERN AMERICAN $$$

(% 303-820-2282; www.riojadenver.com; 1431 Larimer St; mains $18-29; h 11:30am-2:30pm Wed-Fri, 10am-2:30pm Sat & Sun, 5-10pm daily; av ; g 2, 12, 15, 16th St Shuttle) This is one of Denver’s

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns D C ating E olor e n v e ra do

ÿ Sleeping 7 11th Avenue Hotel ................................... C6 8 Brown Palace Hotel ................................ C4 9 Curtis ........................................................ B4 10 Denver International Youth Hostel .................................................... D4 11 Patterson Historic Inn ............................ D6 12 Queen Anne Bed & Breakfast Inn......... C3

14 15 16 17

24 2

most innovative restaurants. Smart, busy and upscale, yet relaxed and casual – just like Colorado – Rioja features modern cuisine inspired by Italian and Spanish traditions and powered by modern culinary flavors.

6 Drinking & Nightlife Top nightlife districts include Uptown for gay bars and a young professional crowd, LoDo for loud sports bars, heavy drinking and dancing, River North for hipsters, Lower Highlands for an eclectic mix and sweet decks, and Broadway and Colfax for old school wannabees.

oForest Room 5

BAR

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns D C olor rinking e n v e ra do& N ightlif e

(% 303-433-7001; www.forestroom5.com; 2532 15th St; h 4pm-2am) One of the best damn

bars in Denver, this LoHi (that’s Lower Highlands) juggernaut has an outdoor patio with fire circles (where you can smoke!), streams and a funked-out Airstream. It plays kitsch movies nightly and has art openings in the upstairs area. It’s an odd mix of Grizzly Adams meets Andy Warhol – and it works. Linger LOUNGE (% 303-993-3120; www.lingerdenver.com; 2030 W 30th Ave; mains $8-14; h 11:30am-2:30pm & 4pm2am Tue-Sat, 10am-2:30pm Sun) This rambling

LoHi complex sits in the former Olinger mortuary. Come nighttime, they black out the ‘O’ and it just becomes Linger. There’s an interesting international menu, but most people come for the tony feel and light-upthe-night rooftop bar, which even has a replica of the RV made famous by the Bill Murray smash Stripes. Bar Standard CLUB (% 303-534-0222; www.coclubs.com; 1037 Broadway; h 8pm-2am Fri & Sat; g 0 RTD) From the

sleek deco interior to the DJ roster that spins way outside the typically mindless thump, Bar Standard is an inimitable gem in Denver’s nightclub scene. It’s ice cold without the attitude, and when the right DJ is on the tables it can be some of the best dancing in town. Tracks GAY (% 303-863-7326; www.tracksdenver.com; 3500 Walnut St; h 9pm-2am Fri & Sat, hours vary Sun-Thu) Denver’s best gay dance club has

an 18-and-up night on Thursdays, Friday drag shows and lesbian nights (just once a month). There’s a definite pretty-boy focus, with good music and a scene to match. Saturday is the biggest dance night.

Denver Wrangler GAY (% 303-837-1075; www.denverwrangler.com; 1700 Logan St; h 11am-2am; g 101 RTD) Denver

Wrangler attracts an amiable crowd of gay male professionals after work, and its central location endows Denver’s premier bear bar with a flirty pick-up scene on the weekend. The sidewalk seating is a plus.

Great Divide Brewing Company BREWERY (www.greatdivide.com; 2201 Arapahoe St; h 2-8pm Mon & Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat) This excellent lo-

cal brewery does well to skip the same old burger menu and the fancy digs to keep its focus on what it does best: crafting exquisite beer. Bellying up to the bar, looking onto the copper kettles and sipping Great Divide’s spectrum of seasonal brews is an experience that will make a beer drinker’s eyes light up. Ace BAR (% 303-800-7705; www.acedenver.com; 501 E 17th Ave; h 11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat & Sun) The best ping-pong bar in Denver. Come

here for fun tournaments, hipster sightings, great food and a raucous indoor-outdoor party that takes you deep into the pong underground – street rules apply. The Church CLUB (www.coclubs.com; 1160 Lincoln St; h 9pm-2am Thu-Sun) There’s nothing like ordering a stiff

drink inside a cathedral built in 1865. Yes, this club, which draws a large and diverse crowd, is in a former house of the Lord. Lit by hundreds of altar candles and flashing blue strobe lights, the Church has three dance floors, acrobats, a couple of lounges and even a sushi bar!

3 Entertainment To find out what’s happening with music, theater and other performing arts, pick up a free copy of Westword (www.westword.com).

oDenver Performing

Arts Complex PERFORMING ARTS (% 720-865-4220; www.artscomplex.com; cnr 14th & Champa Sts) This massive complex –

one of the largest of its kind – occupies four city blocks and houses several major theaters, including the historic Ellie Caulkins Opera House and the Seawell Grand Ballroom. It’s also home to the Colorado Ballet, Denver Center for the Performing Arts, Opera Colorado and the Colorado Symphony Orchestra.

24 3

BEST MILE-HIGH DAY HIKES There are hundreds of day hikes within an hour of Denver. Here are a few we like:

Jefferson County Open Space Parks (www.jeffco.us/openspace; c ) Top picks include Matthews Winters, Mount Falcon, Elk Meadow and Lair o’ the Bear. Golden Gate Canyon State Park (% 303-582-3707; www.parks.state.us/parks; 92 Crawford Gulch Rd, Golden; entrance/camping $7/24; h 5am-10pm) Halfway between Denver and Nederland, this 12,000-acre state park can be reached in about 45 minutes. Staunton State Park (% 303-816-0912; www.parks.state.co.us/parks) Colorado’s newest state park sits on a historic ranch site 40 miles west of Denver, on Hwy 285 between Conifer and Bailey.

oEl Chapultepec

JAZZ

(% 303-295-9126; www.thepeclodo.com; 1962 Market St; h 11am-2am, music from 9pm) This

smoky, old-school jazz joint attracts a diverse mix of people. Since it opened in 1951, Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett and Ella Fitzgerald have played here, as have Jagger and Richards. Local jazz bands take the tiny stage nightly, but you never know who might drop by. Hi-Dive LIVE MUSIC (% 303-733-0230; www.hi-dive.com; 7 S Broadway)

Local rock heroes and touring indie bands light up the stage at the Hi-Dive, a venue at the heart of Denver’s local music scene. During big shows it gets deafeningly loud, cheek-to-jowl with hipsters and humid as an armpit. In other words, it’s perfect. Grizzly Rose LIVE MUSIC (% 303-295-1330; www.grizzlyrose.com; 5450 N Valley Hwy; h from 6pm Tue-Sun; c ) This is one

kick-ass honky-tonk – 40,000 sq ft of hot live music – attracting real cowboys from as far as Cheyenne. The Country Music Association called it the best country bar in America. If you’ve never experienced line dancing, then put on the boots, grab the Stetson and let loose. Ogden Theatre LIVE MUSIC (% 303-832-1874; www.ogdentheatre.net; 935 E Colfax Ave; c ; g 15 RTD) One of Denver’s best

live-music venues, the Ogden Theatre has a checkered past. Built in 1917, it was derelict for many years and might have been dozed in the early 1990s, but it’s now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Bands

such as Edward Sharpe & the Magnetic Zeros and Lady Gaga have played here. Comedy Works COMEDY (% 303-595-3637; www.comedyworks.com; 1226 15th St; g 6, 9, 10, 15L, 20, 28, 32, 44, 44L RTD)

Denver’s best comedy club occupies a basement space in Larimer Sq (enter down a set of stairs at the corner of Larimer and 15th) and routinely brings in up-and-coming yucksters from around the country. It can be a bit cramped if you’re claustrophobic, but the seats are comfortable and the quality of acts is excellent.

Lannie’s Clocktower Cabaret CABARET (% 303-293-0075; www.lannies.com; 1601 Arapahoe St; tickets $25-40; h 1-5pm Tue, to 11pm Wed & Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat; g Arapahoe) Bawdy,

naughty and strangely romantic, Lannie’s Clocktower Cabaret is a wild-child standout among LoDo’s rather straight-laced (or at least straight) night spots. A table right up near the front will get you in the sparkling heart of the action, and if you parse the schedule, you might get a glance at the sexiest drag queens in Denver.

Coors Field BASEBALL (% 800-388-7625; www.mlb.com/col/ballpark/; 2001 Blake St; c ) Denver is a city known for

manic sports fans, and it boasts five pro teams. The Colorado Rockies play baseball at the highly rated Coors Field. Tickets for the outfield – the Rockpile – cost $4. Not a bad deal.

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns D C olor Ent e n evrta e ra do inm e nt

Waterton Canyon (% 303-634-3745; www.denverwater.org/recreation/watertoncanyon; Kassler Center) South of the city, just west of Chatfield Reservoir, this pretty canyon has an easy 6.5-mile trail to the Strontia Springs Dam. From there, the Colorado Trail (CTF; % 303-384-3729; www.coloradotrail.org; PO Box 260876; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) will take you all the way to Durango!

24 4

LIVE AT RED ROCKS!

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns D C hopping S olor e n v e ra do

Red Rocks Amphitheatre (% 303-640-2637; www.redrocksonline.com; 18300 W Alameda Pkwy; h 5am-11pm; c ) is set between 400ft-high red sandstone rocks 15 miles southwest of Denver. Acoustics are so good many artists record live albums here. The 9000-seat theater offers stunning views and draws big-name bands all summer. When the setting sun brings out a rich, orange glow from the rock formations and the band on stage launches into the right tune, Red Rocks Amphitheatre is a captivating experience, wholly befitting the park’s 19th-century name, ‘Garden of Angels.’ The natural amphitheater, once a Ute camping spot, has been used for performances for decades, but it wasn’t until 1936 that members of the Civilian Conservation Corps built a formal outdoor venue with seats and a stage. Though it originally hosted classical performances and military bands, it debuted as a rock venue with style; the first rock quartet on this stage was John, Paul, George and Ringo. You scored tickets? Great. Now for the nitty gritty. Eat beforehand, as the food vendors are predictably expensive. You can bring a small cooler into the show, as long as there’s no booze and it’ll fit under your seat. Climbing on the stunning formations is prohibited; however, 250-plus steps lead to the top of the theater, offering views of both the park and Denver, miles off to the east. Amazingly, Red Rocks Park can be almost as entertaining when it’s silent. The amphitheater is only a tiny part of the 600-acre space. There are miles of hiking trails, opportunities to lose the crowds and take in lovely rock formations. There’s information about the entire area on the website. Sports Authority Field at Mile High STADIUM (% 720-258-3000; www.sportsauthorityfieldatmilehigh.com; 1701 S Bryant St; c ) The much-lauded

oTattered Cover Bookstore

(% 720-258-3888; www.coloradosports.org; 1701 Bryant St; h 10am-3pm Thu-Sun Sep-May, 10am3pm Tue-Sat Jun-Aug; pc ; g 16, 16L, 28, 30, 30L, 31, 36L RTD) F.

oREI

Denver Broncos football team and the Denver Outlaws lacrosse team play at Mile High Stadium, 1 mile west of downtown. This stadium also has an eclectic schedule of events, including major rock concerts for superstars such as U2. Stadium tours are organized through the Colorado Sports Hall of Fame

Pepsi Center STADIUM (% 303-405-1111; www.pepsicenter.com; 1000 Chopper Circle) The mammoth Pepsi Center

hosts the Denver Nuggets basketball team, the Colorado Mammoth of the National Lacrosse League and the Colorado Avalanche hockey team. Off season it’s a mega concert venue.

7 Shopping Head to the pedestrian mall on 16th St or LoDo for downtown shopping. Cherry Creek, Highlands Square and South Broadway are other top shopping districts.

BOOKS

(www.tatteredcover.com; 1628 16th St; h 6:30am9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) There

are plenty of places to curl up with a book in Denver’s beloved independent bookstore, which has two locations in the Denver area. Bursting with new and used books, it has a good stock of regional travel guides and nonfiction titles dedicated to the Western states and Western folklore. OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

(Recreational Equipment Incorporated; % 303-7563100; www.rei.com; 1416 Platte St; c ) The flag-

ship store of this outdoor-equipment super supplier is an essential stop if you are heading to the mountains or just cruising through Confluence Park. In addition to top gear for camping, cycling, climbing and skiing, it has a rental department, maps and the Pinnacle, a 47ft-high indoor structure of simulated red sandstone for climbing and rappelling. Wax Trax Records MUSIC (% 303-831-7246; www.waxtraxrecords.com; 638 E 13th Ave; g 2, 10, 15, 15L RTD) For more than 30

years, Wax Trax Records has been trading at this Denver location, stocking a huge quantity of CDs, DVDs, vinyl and music paraphernalia. Indie, alternative, punk, goth, folk, rock, hiphop, jazz, reggae – anything that’s a bit edgy you’ll either find in store or it’ll order for you.

24 5

88 Information

88 Getting There & Away Denver International Airport (DIA; % 303-3422000; www.flydenver.com; 8500 Peña Blvd; W ) is served by around 20 airlines and offers flights to nearly every major US city. Located 24 miles east of downtown, DIA is connected with I-70 exit 238 by 12-mile-long Peña Blvd. Tourist and airport information is available at a booth (% 303342-2000) in the terminal’s central hall. Greyhound buses stop at Denver Bus Center (% 303-293-6555; 1055 19th St), which runs services to Boise (19 hours), Los Angeles (22 hours) and other destinations. The Colorado Mountain Express (CME; % 800-525-6363; www.coloradomountainexpress.com; DIA; W ) has shuttle service from DIA, downtown Denver or Morrison to Summit County, including Breckenridge and Keystone (2½ hours) and Vail (three hours). Amtrak’s California Zephyr runs daily between Chicago and San Francisco via Denver’s Union Station (% Amtrak 800-872-7245; www.denverunionstation.org; cnr 17th & Wynkoop Sts; g 31X, 40X, 80X, 86X, 120X RTD).

88 Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Several transportation companies have booths near the baggage-claim area. Public Regional Transit District (RTD; % 303-299-6000; www. rtd-denver.com) runs a SkyRide service to the airport from downtown Denver hourly ($9–13, about one hour) and Boulder (1½ hours). SuperShuttle (% 303-370-1300; www.supershuttle. com) offers shared van services between the Denver area and the airport. In early 2016 a transit center will open at DIA, linking the airport with downtown Denver via a 35-minute commuter rail trip.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE Street parking can be a pain, but there are slews of pay garages in downtown and LoDo. Nearly all the major car-rental agencies have counters at DIA; a few have offices in downtown Denver. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION RTD provides public transportation throughout the Denver and Boulder area. Free shuttle buses operate along the 16th St Mall. RTD’s light rail line currently has six lines servicing 46 stations. Fares are $2.25 for one to two stops, $4 for three fare zones and $5 for all zones. TAXI Companies offering 24-hour cab service: Metro Taxi (% 303-333-3333; www.metrotaxidenver.com) Yellow Cab (% 303-777-7777; www.denveryellowcab.com)

Boulder

Tucked against the Flatirons’ cragged and near-vertical rock face, this idyllic town has a sweet location and a palpable idealism that’s a magnet to entrepreneurs, athletes, hippies and hard-bodies. It’s also home to the University of Colorado and the Buddhist-founded, Beat-inspired Naropa University. Boulder’s love of the outdoors was officially legislated in 1967, when it became the first US city to tax itself specifically to preserve open space. Thanks to such vision, packs of cyclists whip up and down the Boulder Creek corridor, which links city and county parks those taxpayer dollars have purchased. The pedestrian-only Pearl St Mall is lively and perfect for strolling, especially at night, when residents promenade until the wee hours. In fact, for outdoorsy types, Boulder, not Denver, is the region’s tourist hub. The city is about the same distance from Denver International Airport, and staying here puts you closer to trails, ski resorts and Rocky Mountain National Park.

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns B ICnform o olor u ld a eation r do

Visitors & Convention Bureau Information Center (% 303-892-1112; www.denver.org; 1600 California St; W ; g California) When you get to town, make for the largest and most centrally located information center, located on the 16th St Mall. You can load up on brochures and get information about local transportation. There’s also a tourist info desk in the Colorado Convention Center. ORIC Desk (Outdoor Recreation Information Center; % REI main line 303-756-3100; www. oriconline.org; 1416 Platte St; W ) Inside REI, this information desk is a must for those looking to get out of town. It has maps and expert information on trip planning and safety information. The desk is staffed by volunteers, so hours vary wildly, but arriving on a weekend afternoon is a good bet.

BICYCLE BikeDenver.org (www.bikedenver.org) or City of Denver (www.denvergov.org) have downloadable bike maps for the city. Denver B-Cycle (http://denver.bcycle.com) is the first citywide bicycle-share program in the US, with more than 80 stations throughout the city. Helmets are not included, and are not required by law in Denver.

24 6

1 Sights & Activities Boulder’s two areas to see and be seen are the downtown Pearl St Mall and the University Hill district (next to campus), both off Broadway, though the Hill is rarely the haunt of anyone over 25. Overlooking the city from the west are the Flatirons, an eye-catching rock formation.

oChautauqua Park

PARK

(www.chautauqua.com; 900 Baseline Rd; g HOP 2)

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns B C ights S o olor u ld a e& r doActi v iti e s

This historic landmark park is not just the gateway to Boulder’s most magnificent slab of open space adjoining the iconic Flatirons, the wide, lush lawn attracts picnicking families, sunbathers, Frisbee folk and students from nearby CU. It also gets copious hikers, climbers and trail runners. Boulder Creek Bike Path CYCLING (h 24hr; c ) The most utilized commuter bike

path in town, this smooth and mostly straight creekside concrete path follows Boulder Creek from Foothills Parkway all the way uphill to the split of Boulder Canyon and Four Mile Canyon Rd west of downtown – a total distance of over 5 miles one-way. It also feeds urban bike lanes that lead all over town. Eldorado Canyon State Park OUTDOORS (% 303-494-3943; h visitor center 9am-5pm)

Among the country’s best rock-climbing areas, Eldorado has class 5.5 to 5.12 climbs. Suitable to all visitors, a dozen miles of hiking trails also link up to Chautauqua Park. A public pool (summer only) offers chilly swims in the canyon’s famous spring water.

University Bicycles CYCLING (www.ubikes.com; 839 Pearl St; 4hr rental $15; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) There are

plenty of rental shops, but this has the widest range of rides and the most helpful staff. For $18 you can get a townie bike for the day. Boulder Rock Club ROCK CLIMBING (% 303-447-2804; http://boulderrockclub.com; 2829 Mapleton Ave; day pass adult/child $17/10; h 8am-10pm Mon, 6am-11pm Tue-Thu, 8am-11pm Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; c ) An incredible in-

door climbing gym popular with local rock rats. This massive warehouse is full of artificial rock faces cragged with ledges and routes, and the auto-belay system allows solo climbers an anchor. Lessons and courses available, with a special kids’ program. Staff are a great resource for local climbing routes.

z Festivals & Events Boulder Creek Festival MUSIC, FOOD (% 303-449-3137; www.bceproductions.com; Canyon Blvd, Central Park; h May; c ; g 206, JUMP) F Billed as the kick-off to summer and

capped with the Bolder Boulder, this summer festival is massive. Over 10 event areas feature more than 30 live entertainers and 500 vendors. There will be food and drink, music and sunshine. What’s not to love? Bolder Boulder ATHLETICS (% 303-444-7223; www.bolderboulder.com; adult from $59; h May; c ) With 54,000 runners

and pros mingling with costumed racers, live bands and sideline merrymakers, this may be the most fun 10k in America, ending at the CU Stadium.

THE THOUSAND-YEAR FLOOD

4 Sleeping

It came after a drought that followed the worst wildfire in Colorado history. On September 12, 2013, the Front Range woke up to flooding canyons and inundations that isolated mountain communities. Eight people died and thousands lost their homes. A disaster of this magnitude is considered a thousand-year flood, with a 0.1% probability in any given year. The month’s 17in of rainfall blasted September’s usual 1.7in average. Now cited as the second-largest natural disaster in US history, after Hurricane Katrina, it will take years to recover. The affected area was roughly the size of Connecticut. Losses were estimated at $2 billion.

Boulder has dozens of options – drive down Broadway or Hwy 36 to take your pick.

oChautauqua Lodge

HISTORIC HOTEL $$

(% 303-442-3282; www.chautauqua.com; 900 Baseline Rd; r from $73, cottages $125-183; p n a W # ; g HOP 2) Adjoining beautiful

hiking trails to the Flatirons, these cottages, in a leafy neighborhood inside Chautauqua Park, are our top pick. It has contemporary rooms and one- to three-bedroom cottages with porches, and beds with patchwork quilts. It’s perfect for families and pets. All cottages have full kitchens, though the wraparound porch of the Chautauqua Dining Hall is a local favorite for breakfast.

247 Hotel Boulderado BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (% 303-442-4344; www.boulderado.com; 2115 13th St; r from $264; paW ; g HOP, SKIP) With a

century of service, the charming Boulderado, full of Victorian elegance and wonderful public spaces, is a National Register landmark and a romantic getaway. Each antique-filled room is uniquely decorated. The stained-glass atrium and glacial water fountain accent the jazz-washed lobby. Guesthouse rooms across the street are slightly bigger and cheaper, but lack the historical gravitas.

Boulder’s finest four-star option is modern and refined, with photographs of local scenery and cork walls that warm the ambience. With fabulous Flatiron views, the back patio hosts live world music, jazz concerts and wild salsa parties. Rooms are plush, and so are the robes.

5 Eating Boulder’s dining scene has dozens of great options. Most are centered on the Pearl St Mall, while bargains are more likely to be found on the Hill. Between 3:30pm and 6:30pm nearly every restaurant in the city features a happy hour with some kind of amazing food and drink special. It’s a great way to try fine dining on a budget – check websites for details. Spruce Confections BAKERY $ (% 303-449-6773; 767 Pearl St; cookies from $3.25; h 6:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6pm Sat & Sun; c ; g 206) Boulder’s go-to bakehouse, where

the favorites are the Ol’ B Cookie (chocolate, oats, cinnamon and coconut) and the Black Bottom Cupcake (chocolate with cheesecake filling). Pair either with the Spruce Juice, possibly the world’s greatest iced vanilla latte. It has sinful scones, good homemade soups and salads too. There’s another branch at 4684 Broadway. Dish SANDWICHES $ (% 720-565-5933; www.dishgourmet.com; 1918 Pearl St; mains $10; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am4pm Sat; c ; g 204, HOP) Bank-length lines

flank this gourmet deli at lunchtime. At $10 the sandwiches are hardly cheap but they are satisfying. Think roasted turkey carved in chunks, pâté, natural beef, slow-cooked

Zoe Ma Ma CHINESE $ (2010 10th St; mains $5-13; h 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat; g 206, SKIP, HOP) S At

Boulder’s hippest noodle bar you can find fresh street food at a long outdoor counter. Mama, the Taiwanese matriarch, is on hand, cooking and chatting up customers in her Crocs. Organic noodles are made from scratch, as are the garlicky melt-in-yourmouth pot stickers. Sink PUB FOOD $ (www.thesink.com; 1165 13th St; mains $5-12; h 11am-2am, kitchen to 10pm; # ; g 203, 204, 225, DASH, SKIP) A Hill landmark since 1923, the

low-slung, graffiti-scrawled Sink even employed Robert Redford during his CU years. While he dropped out, it hasn’t. The dimly lit, cavernous space still churns out legendary Sink burgers and slugs of local microbrews to the latest generation of students. Alfalfa’s SUPERMARKET$ (www.alfalfas.com; 1651 Broadway St; h 7:30am10pm; g AB, B, JUMP, SKIP) A small, communi-

ty-oriented natural market with a wonderful selection of prepared food and an inviting indoor-outdoor dining area to enjoy it in. Cafe Aion SPANISH $$ (% 303-993-8131; www.cafeaion.com; 1235 Pennsylvania Ave; tapas $5-13; h 11am-10pm Tue-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun; g 203, 204, 225, DASH, SKIP)

Though fancy fare on the Hill sounds odd, don’t skip this one. Original and unpretentious, this side-street cafe captures the relaxed rhythms of Spain with fresh tapas and delectable housemade sangria. Papas bravas wedges have the perfect crisp, and the grilled spring onions and dolmas are light and flavorful. Happy hour goes all night on Tuesdays. Lucile’s CAJUN $ (% 303-442-4743; www.luciles.com; 2142 14th St; mains $8-14; h 7am-2pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun; c ; g 205, 206, HOP) S This New

Orleans–style diner has perfected breakfast, and the Creole egg dishes (served over creamy spinach alongside cheesy grits or perfectly blackened trout) are the thing to order. Start with a steaming mug of chai or chicory coffee and an order of beignets drenched in powdered sugar which are the house specialty. Go early or be prepared to wait.

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns B C ating E o olor u ld a er do

St Julien Hotel & Spa HOTEL $$$ (% 720-406-9696, reservations 877-303-0900; www.stjulien.com; 900 Walnut St; r from $309; p aiWs ) In the heart of downtown,

brisket and baguettes smothered with butter and top-tier cheeses. Side salads are alluring too.

24 8

oSalt

MODERN AMERICAN $$$

(% 303-444-7258; www.saltboulderbistro.com; 1047 Pearl St; mains $14-28; h 11am-10pm MonWed, to 11pm Thu-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; c ; g 208, HOP, SKIP) While farm-to-table is ubiquitous

in Boulder, this is one spot that delivers and surpasses expectations. The sweet pea ravioli with lemon beurre blanc and shaved radishes is a feverish delight. But Salt also knows meat: local and grass-fed, basted, braised and slow roasted to utter perfection. When in doubt, ask – the servers really know their stuff. Kitchen MODERN AMERICAN $$$ (% 303-544-5973; http://thekitchen.com; 1039 Pearl St; mains $18-32; W ; g 206, HOP) S The

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns B Co D olor rinking u ld a er do& Ent e rta inm e nt

pioneer of farm-to-table cuisine in Boulder, Kitchen features clean lines, stacks of crusty bread and a daily menu. Super-fresh ingredients are crafted into rustic tapas: think roasted root vegetables, shaved prosciutto and steamed mussels in cream. The pulledpork sandwich rocks, but save room for the sticky toffee pudding. Visitors shouldn’t miss the community hour, with sips and nibbles at a communal table 3pm to 5pm weekdays. Upstairs there’s a more casual atmosphere and menu.

6 Drinking & Entertainment Playboy didn’t vote CU the best party school for nothing – the blocks around the Pearl St Mall and the Hill churn out fun, with many restaurants doubling as bars or turning into all-out dance clubs come 10pm.

oMountain Sun Pub & Brewery

BREWERY

(www.mountainsunpub.com; 1535 Pearl St; h 11am-1am; c ; g HOP, 205, 206) Boulder’s fa-

vorite brewery cheerfully serves a rainbow of fine brews and packs in all from yuppies to hippies. But best of all is its community atmosphere. The pub grub, especially the burgers and chili, is delicious and its fully family-friendly, with board games and kids’ meals. It often has live bluegrass, reggae and jam-bands on Sunday and Monday nights. Bitter Bar COCKTAIL BAR (% 303-442-3050; www.thebitterbar.com; 835 Walnut St; cocktails $9-15; h 5pm-midnight MonThu, 5pm-2am Fri & Sat; g HOP) A chic Boulder

speakeasy where killer cocktails, such as the scrumptious lavender-infused Blue Velvet, make the evening slip happily out of fo-

cus. The patio is great for conversation and Thursdays at 9pm there’s live music. Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse TEAHOUSE (% 303-442-4993; 1770 13th St; mains $8-19; h 8am-10pm; g 203, 204, 205, 206, 208, 225, DASH, JUMP, SKIP) It’s impossible to find bet-

ter ambience than this incredible Tajik teahouse, a gift from Dushanbe, Boulder’s sister city. The elaborate carvings and paintings were reassembled over a decade on Central Park’s edge. It’s too bad the fusion fare is surprisingly dull, but it’s very worth coming for a pot of tea. Boulder Theater CINEMA, LIVE MUSIC (% 303-786-7030; www.bouldertheatre.com; 2032 14th St) This old movie-theater-turned-his-

toric-venue brings in slightly under-the-radar acts like jazz great Charlie Hunter, the madmen rockers of Gogol Bordello and West Afro–French divas, Les Nubians. But it also screens classic films like The Big Lebowski and hosts short-film festivals that can and should be enjoyed with a glass of beer.

7 Shopping oPearl Street Mall

MALL

The main feature of downtown Boulder is the Pearl St Mall, a vibrant pedestrian zone filled with kids’ climbing boulders and splash fountains, bars, galleries and restaurants. Momentum HANDICRAFTS (www.ourmomentum.com; 1625 Pearl St; h 10am7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) S Committed to

socially responsible and environmentally friendly business practices, Momentum makes you feel good about shopping. It sells the kitchen sink of unique global gifts – Zulu wire baskets, fabulous scarves from India, Nepal and Ecuador – all handcrafted and purchased at fair value from disadvantaged artisans. Every item purchased provides a direct economic lifeline to the artists. Common Threads CLOTHING (www.commonthreadsboulder.com; 2707 Spruce St; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Vin-

tage shopping at its most haute couture, this fun place is where to go for secondhand Choos and Prada purses. Prices are higher than at your run-of-the-mill vintage shop, but clothes, shoes and bags are always in good condition, and the authenticity of the designer clothing is guaranteed. Offers fun classes on altering and innovating clothes.

24 9 Boulder Bookstore BOOKS (www.boulderbookstore.indiebound.com; 1107 Pearl St; Wc ) Boulder’s favorite indie bookstore

has a huge travel section downstairs, along with all the hottest new fiction and nonfiction. Check the visiting-authors lineup posted at the entry.

88 Information Boulder Visitor Center (% 303-442-2911; www.bouldercoloradousa.com; 2440 Pearl St; h 8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) Set in the Boulder Chamber of Commerce, this visitor center offers basic information, maps and tips on nearby hiking trails and other activities. There’s a more accessible tourist info kiosk on the Pearl St Mall in front of the courthouse.

Boulder has fabulous public transportation, with services extending to Denver and its airport. Ecofriendly buses are run by RTD (% 303-2996000; www.rtd-denver.com; per ride $2-4.50; c ). Maps are available at Boulder Station (cnr 14th & Walnut Sts). RTD buses (route B) operate between Boulder Station and Denver’s Market St Bus Station ($5, 55 minutes). RTD’s SkyRide bus (route AB) heads to Denver International Airport ($9–13, one hour, hourly). SuperShuttle (% 303-444-0808; www.supershuttle.com) provides hotel ($27) and door-to-door ($33) shuttle service from the airport. For two-wheel transportation, Boulder BCycle (http://boulder.bcycle.com; 24hr rental $7) is a new citywide program with townie bikes available at strategic locations, but riders must sign up online first.

Northern Mountains

With one foot on either side of the continental divide and behemoths of granite in every direction, Colorado’s Northern Mountains offer out-of-this-world alpine adventures, laid-back skiing, kick-butt hiking and biking, and plenty of rivers to raft, fish and float.

Rocky Mountain National Park Rocky Mountain National Park showcases classic alpine scenery, with wildflower meadows and serene mountain lakes set under snowcapped peaks. There are over four million visitors annually, but many stay on the beaten path. Hike an extra mile and enjoy the incredible solitude. Elk are the park’s signature mammal – you will even see them

1 Sights & Activities With over 300 miles of trail, traversing all aspects of its diverse terrain, the park is suited to every hiking ability. Those with kids in tow might consider the easy hikes to Calypso Falls in the Wild Basin, Gem Lakes in the Lumpy Ridge area or the trail to Twin Sisters Peak south of Estes Park, while those with unlimited ambition, strong legs and enough trail mix will be lured by the challenge of Longs Peak's summit. Regardless, it’s best to spend at least one night at 7000ft to 8000ft prior to setting out to allow your body to adjust to the elevation. Before July, many trails are snowbound and high water runoff makes passage difficult. In the winter, avalanches are a hazard.

oMoraine Park Museum

MUSEUM

(% 970-586-1206; Bear Lake Rd; h 9am-4:30pm Jun-Oct) Built by the Civilian Conservation

Corps in 1923 and once the park’s proud visitors lodge, this building has been renovated in recent years to host exhibits on geology, glaciers and wildlife.

4 Sleeping The only overnight accommodations in the park are at campgrounds. Dining options and the majority of motel or hotel accommodations are around Estes Park or Grand Lake, located on the other side of the Trail Ridge Road Pass (open late May to October). You will need a backcountry permit to stay outside developed park campgrounds. None of the campgrounds have showers, but they do have flush toilets in summer and outhouse facilities in winter. Sites include fire rings, picnic tables and one parking spot. Olive Ridge Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 303-541-2500; State Hwy 7; tent sites $19; h mid-May–Nov) This well-kept USFS camp-

ground has access to four trailheads: St Vrain Mountain, Wild Basin, Longs Peak and Twin Sisters. In the summer it can get full, though sites are mostly first-come, first-served. Longs Peak Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 970-586-1206; Longs Peak Rd, off State Hwy 7; tent sites $20; p ) This is the base camp of

choice for the early morning ascent of Longs Peak, one of Colorado’s most easily accessible 14ers. The scenery is striking and its 26

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns N ICnform olor orth aeation do rn M o u nta ins

88 Getting There & Around

grazing hotel lawns – but also keep an eye out for bighorn sheep, moose, marmots and black bears.

2 50

spaces are for tents only, but don’t expect much solitude in the peak of the summer. Moraine Park Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; off Bear Lake Rd; summer tent & RV sites $20) In the

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns N ICnform olor orth aeation do rn M o u nta ins

middle of a stand of ponderosa pine forest off Bear Lake Road, this is the biggest of the park’s campgrounds, approximately 2.5 miles south of the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, and with 245 sites. The walk-in, tent-only sites in the D Loop are recommended if you want quiet. Make reservations through the website. Reservations are accepted and recommended from the end of May through to the end of September; other times of the year the campground is first-come, first-served. At night in the summer, there are numerous ranger-led programs in the amphitheater. The campground is served by the shuttle buses on Bear Lake Rd through the summer. Aspenglen Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; State Hwy 34; summer tent & RV sites $20) With only 54

sites, this is the smallest of the park’s reservable camping. There are many tent-only sites, including some walk-ins, and a limited number of trailers are allowed. This is the quietest campground in the park while still being highly accessible (5 miles west of Estes Park on US 34). Make reservations through the website. Timber Creek Campground CAMPGROUND $ (Trail Ridge Rd, US Hwy 34; tent & RV sites $20)

This campground has 100 sites and remains open through the winter. No reservations accepted. The only established campground on the west side of the park, it’s 7 miles north of Grand Lake.

88 Information For private vehicles, the park entrance fee is $20, valid for seven days. Individuals entering the park on foot, bicycle, motorcycle or bus pay $10 each. All visitors receive a free copy of the park’s information brochure, which contains a good orientation map and is available in English, German, French, Spanish and Japanese. Backcountry permits ($26 for a group of up to 12 people for seven days) are required for overnight stays in the 260 designated backcountry camping sites in the park. They are free between November 1 and April 30. Phone reservations can be made only from March 1 to May 15. Reservations by snail mail or in person are accepted via the Backcountry Office. (% 970-586-1242;

www.nps.gov/romo; 1000 W Hwy 36 Estes Park CO 80517) A bear box to store your food is required if you are staying overnight in the backcountry (established campsites already have them). These can be rented for around $3 to $5 per day from REI (p244) or the Estes Park Mountain Shop (% 970-586-6548; www.estesparkmountainshop.com; 2050 Big Thompson Ave; 2-person tent $10, bear box per night $3; h 8am-9pm). Alpine Visitor Center (www.nps.gov/romo; Fall River Pass; h 10:30am-4:30pm late May–midJun, 9am-5pm late Jun-early Sep, 10:30am4:30pm early Sep–mid-Oct; c ) The views from this popular visitor center and souvenir store at 11,796ft, and right in the middle of the park, are extraordinary. You can see elk, deer and sometimes moose grazing on the hillside on the drive up Old Fall River Rd. Much of the traffic that clogs Trail Ridge Road all summer pulls into Alpine Visitor Center, so the place is a zoo. Rangers here give programs and advice about trails. You can also shop for knickknacks or eat in the cafeteria-style dining room. Beaver Meadows Visitor Center (% 970-5861206; www.nps.gov/romo; US Hwy 36; h 8am9pm late Jun-late Aug, to 4:30pm or 5pm rest of yr; c ) The primary visitor center and best stop for park information if you’re approaching from Estes Park. You can see a film about the park, browse a small gift shop and reserve backcountry camping sites. Kawuneeche Visitor Center (% 970-6273471; 16018 US Hwy 34; h 8am-6pm last week May-Labor Day, 8am-4:30pm Oct-May; c ) This visitor center is on the west side of the park, and offers a film about the park ranger-led walks and discussions, backcountry permits and family activities.

88 Getting There & Away Trail Ridge Rd (US 34) is the only east–west route through the park and is closed in winter. The most direct route from Boulder follows US 36 through Lyons to the east entrances. There are two entrance stations on the east side, Fall River (US 34) and Beaver Meadows (US 36). The Grand Lake Station (also US 34) is the only entry on the west side. Year-round access is available through Kawuneeche Valley along the Colorado River headwaters to Timber Creek Campground. The main centers of visitor activity on the park’s east side are the Alpine Visitor Center, high on Trail Ridge Rd and Bear Lake Rd, which leads to campgrounds, trailheads and the Moraine Park Museum. North of Estes Park, Devils Gulch Rd leads to several hiking trails. Further out on Devils Gulch Rd, you pass through the village of Glen Haven

251 to reach the trailhead entry to the park along the North Fork of the Big Thompson River.

88 Getting Around In summer a free shuttle bus operates from the Estes Park Visitor Center multiple times daily, bringing hikers to a park-and-ride location where you can pick up other shuttles. The year-round option leaves the Glacier Basin parking area toward Bear Lake, in the park’s lower elevations. During the summer peak, a second shuttle operates between Moraine Park Campground and the Glacier Basin parking area. Shuttles run on weekends only from mid-August through September.

Estes Park

2 Activities oColorado Mountain School ROCK CLIMBING

(% 800-836-4008; www.totalclimbing.com; 341 Moraine Ave; half-day guided climbs per person from $125) Simply put, there’s no better resource

for climbers in Colorado – this outfit is the largest climbing operator in the region, has the most expert guides and is the only organization allowed to operate within Rocky Mountain National Park. It has a clutch of classes taught by world-class instructors.

4 Sleeping Estes Park’s dozens of hotels fill up fast in summer. There are some passable budget options but the many lovely area campgrounds are the best value. Try the Estes Park Visitor Center

(% 970-577-9900; www.estesparkresortcvb.com; 500 Big Thompson Ave; h 9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 8am5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun SepMay), just east of the US 36 junction, for help

with lodging; note that many places close in winter.

Estes Park Hostel HOSTEL $ (% 970-237-0152; www.estesparkhostel.com; 211 Cleave St; dm/s/d $26/38/52; W ) This hostel,

with a handful of shared rooms and simple privates, isn’t going into history books as

oYMCA of the Rockies –

Estes Park Center RESORT $$ (% 970-586-3341; www.ymcarockies.org; 2515 Tunnel Rd; r from $109, cabins from $129; pnaW# )

Estes Park Center is not your typical YMCA boarding house. Instead it’s a favorite vacation spot with families, boasting upmarket motel-style accommodations and cabins set on hundreds of acres of high alpine terrain. Choose from roomy cabins that sleep up to 10 or motel-style rooms for singles or doubles. Both are simple and practical. This very kid-friendly resort sits in a serene and ultrapristine location in the mountains just outside town. The 860-acre plot is home to cabins and motel rooms along with lots of wide open spaces dotted with forests and fields of wildflowers. Just a few minutes outside Estes Park (but definitely away from the hustle of town), it offers a range of activities for adults, kids or the whole family, throughout the year. It also runs special themed weekends and longer summer camps where environmental education is taught in a fun and engaging manner. This YMCA is unapologetically outdoorsy, and most guests come to participate in the activities. Riversong BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (% 970 586 4666; www.romanticriversong.com; 1766 Lower Broadview Dr; d from $165; pn )

Tucked down a dead-end dirt road overlooking the Big Thompson River, Riversong offers nine romantic rooms with private bath in a Craftsman-style mansion. The minimum stay is two nights, and prices vary by amenities. West of town take Moraine Ave, turn onto Mary’s Lake Rd and take the first right. Stanley Hotel HOTEL $$ (% 970-577-4000; www.stanleyhotel.com; 333 Wonderview Ave; r from $199; pW s ) The white

Georgian Colonial Revival hotel stands in brilliant contrast to the towering peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park that frame the skyline. A favorite local retreat, this bestin-class hotel served as the inspiration for Stephen King’s famous cult novel The Shining. Rooms are decorated to retain some of the Old West feel while still ensuring all the creature comforts.

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It’s no small irony that becoming a naturelovers hub has turned the gateway of one of the most pristine outdoor escapes in the US into a kind of Great Outdoors Disney. And while there are plenty of t-shirt shops and mountain kitsch, a nice river runs through town, and there are cool parks, decent restaurants and a haunted hotel.

the plushest digs ever, but there’s a kitchen on site, and Terri, the owner, is helpful. The price is right too.

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5 Eating Ed’s Cantina & Grill MEXICAN $ (% 970-586-2919; www.edscantina.com; 390 E Elkhorn Ave; mains $9-13; h 11am-late Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat & Sun; c ) With an outdoor

patio right on the river, Ed’s is a great place to kick back with a margarita. Serving Mexican and American staples, the restaurant is in a retro woodsy space with leather booth seating and bold primary colors.

Estes Park Brewery PUB FOOD $$ (www.epbrewery.com; 470 Prospect Village Dr; h 11am-2am Mon-Sun) The town’s brewpub

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serves pizza, burgers and wings, and at least eight different house beers, in a big, boxy room resembling a cross between a classroom and a country kitchen. Pool tables and outdoor seating keep the place rocking late into the night.

88 Getting There & Away From Denver International Airport, Estes Park Shuttle (% 970-586-5151; www.estesparkshuttle.com) runs four times daily to Estes Park (one-way/return $45/85).

Steamboat Springs With tree-skiing in luxuriant areas, topnotch trails for mountain-biking and a laidback Western feel, Steamboat beats other ski towns in both ambience and offerings. Its historic center is cool for rambling, the hot springs top off a hard day of play and locals couldn’t be friendlier.

2 Activities Steamboat Mountain Resort SNOW SPORTS (% ticket office 970-871-5252; www.steamboat. com; lift ticket adult/child $94/59; h ticket office 8am-5pm) The stats of the Steamboat Ski

Area speak volumes for the town’s claim as ‘Ski Town, USA’ – 165 trails, 3668ft vertical and nearly 3000 acres. With excellent powder and trails for all levels, this is the main draw for winter visitors and some of the best skiing in the US. In the ski area there are (overpriced) food and equipment vendors galore.

oStrawberry Park Hot Springs HOT SPRING

(% 970-870-1517; www.strawberryhotsprings. com; 44200 County Rd; per day adult/child $10/5; h 10am-10:30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; c ) S Steamboat’s favorite hot springs are

actually outside the city limits but offer

great back-to-basics relaxation. There are very rustic cabins ($60 to $70) and camping ($55) here, too – though you are probably better off back in Steamboat. It has no electricity (you get gas lanterns) and you’ll need your own linens. Be sure to reserve. Weekend reservations require a two-night stay. Note that the thermal pools are clothing optional after dark. Check website for directions. Orange Peel Bikes BICYCLE RENTAL (% 970-879-2957; www.orangepeelbikes.com; 1136 Yampa St; bike rental per day $20-65; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; c ) In a funky old build-

ing at the end of Yampa, this is perfectly situated for renting a bike to ride the trails criss-crossing Howelsen Hill. A staff of serious riders and mechanics can offer tons of information about local trails, including maps. This is the coolest bike shop in town, hands down. Bucking Rainbow Outfitters RAFTING, FLY-FISHING (% 970-879-8747; www.buckingrainbow.com; 730 Lincoln Ave; inner tubes $17, rafting $43-100, fishing $150-340; h daily) This excellent outfitter has

fly-fishing, rafting, and outdoor apparel and the area’s best fly shop, but it’s renowned for its rafting trips on the Yampa and beyond. Rafting half-days start at $71. Two-hour intown fly-fishing trips start at $155 per person. It has a tube shack that runs shuttles from Sunpies Bistro on Yampa St. Old Town Hot Springs HOT SPRING (% 970-879-1828; www.oldtownhotsprings.org; 136 Lincoln Ave; adult/child $16/9, waterslide $6; h 5:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 7am-9pm Sat, 8am-9pm Sun; c ) Smack dab in the center of town,

the water here is warmer than most other springs in the area. Known by the Utes as the ‘medicine springs,’ the mineral waters here are said to have special healing powers.

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel Bristol HOTEL $$ (% 970-879-3083; www.steamboathotelbristol. com; 917 Lincoln Ave; d $129-149; n W ) The ele-

gant Hotel Bristol has small-but-sophisticated Western digs, with dark-wood and brass furnishings and Pendleton wool blankets on the beds. It has a ski shuttle, a six-person indoor Jacuzzi and a cozy restaurant. The Boathouse MODERN AMERICAN $$ (% 970-879-4797; 609 Yampa; $12-20; h restaurant 11am-10pm, bar to 1am) You can’t beat the

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view from the riverfront deck and the creative menu takes you on a cruise of the continents with innovative dishes like ‘When Pigs Fly’ (wasabi-kissed pork chops). Great for evening stargazing, it gets moving as a favorite pub after dinner. Carl’s Tavern AMERICAN $$ (% 970-761-2060; www.carlstavern.com; 700 Yampa St; mains $14-31) This local’s favorite has

great pub grub, a happening patio, live music, hot wait staff, and a raucous spirit that will get your heart thumping.

88 Information

88 Getting There & Away Buses between Denver and Salt Lake City stop at the Greyhound Terminal (% 800-231-2222; www.greyhound.com; 1505 Lincoln Ave), about half a mile west of town. Steamboat Springs Transit (% 970-879-3717, for pick-up in Mountain Area 970-846-1279; http://steamboatsprings.net) runs free buses between Old Town and the ski resort year-round. Steamboat is 166 miles northwest of Denver via US 40.

Central Colorado

Colorado’s central mountains are well known for their plethora of world-class ski resorts, sky-high hikes and snow-melt rivers. To the southeast are Colorado Springs and Pikes Peak, which anchor the southern Front Range.

Winter Park Less than two hours from Denver, unpretentious Winter Park is a favorite ski resort with Front Rangers, who flock here from as far away as Colorado Springs to ski fresh tracks each weekend. Beginners can frolic on miles of powdery groomers while experts test their skills on Mary Jane’s world-class bumps. Most services are along US 40 (the main drag), including the visitor center

(% 970-726-4118; www.winterpark-info.com; 78841 Hwy 40; h 9am-5pm daily). South of town, Winter Park Resort (% 970-726-1564; www.winterparkresort.com; Hwy 40; lift ticket adult/child $104/62; c ) covers five

trestlebikepark.com; day pass adult/child $39/29; h mid-Jun–mid-Sep) connecting to a 600-mile

trail system running through the valley.

Devil’s Thumb Ranch (% 800-933-4339; www.devilsthumbranch.com; 3530 County Rd 83; bunkhouse $100-180, lodge $240-425, cabins from $365; a W s # ) S, with a cowboy-chic

lodge and cabins alongside a 65-mile network of trails, makes an ultra-romantic getaway for the active-minded. Geothermal heat, reclaimed wood and low-emission fireplaces make it green. It’s ideal for cross-country skiing and horseback rides (% 970-7265632; trail passes adult/child $20/8, horseback riding $95-175; c ) in the high country.

The best deal around is the friendly

Rocky Mountain Chalet (% 970-726-8256; www.therockymountainchalet.com; 15 County Rd 72; dm $30, r summer/winter $89/149; paW ),

with plush, comfortable doubles, dorm rooms and a sparkling kitchen. For inspired dining, Tabernash Tavern (% 970-726-4430; www.tabernashtavern.com; 72287 US Hwy 40; mains $20-34; h 5-9pm TueSat) S whets the appetite with buffalo rib

ragu or venison burgers. Reserve ahead. It’s north of town.

Breckenridge & Around Set at 9600ft, at the foot of a marvelous range of treeless peaks, Breck is a sweetly surviving gold-mining town with a lovely national historic district. With down-toearth grace, the town boasts family-friendly ski runs that don’t disappoint and always draw a giddy crowd. If you should happen to grow restless, there are five great ski resorts and outlet shopping less than an hour away.

1 Sights & Activities Peak 8 Fun Park AMUSEMENT PARK (% 800-789-7669; www.breckenridge.com; Peak 8; day pass 3-7yr/8yr & up $34/68; h 9:30am5:30pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep; c ) This park has

a laundry list of made-for-thrills activities, including a big-air trampoline, climbing wall, mountain-bike park and the celebrated SuperSlide – a luge-like course taken on a sled at exhilarating speeds. Get the day pass, do activities à la carte ($10 to $18) or simply take a scenic ride up the chair lift (without/

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Steamboat Springs Visitor Center (% 970879-0880; www.steamboat-chamber.com; 125 Anglers Drive; h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am3pm Sat) This visitor center, facing Sundance Plaza, has a wealth of local information, and its website is also excellent for planning.

mountains and has a vertical drop of more than 2600ft. Experts love it here because more than half of the runs are geared solely for highly skilled skiers. It also has 45 miles of lift-accessible mountain-biking trails (www.

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with bike $10/17). This will eventually morph into the impressive eco-playground Epic Discovery (www.epicdiscovery.com), though not until 2016 at the earliest. Breckenridge Ski Area SNOW SPORTS (% 800-789-7669; www.breckenridge.com; lift ticket adult/child $115/68; h 8:30am-4pm Nov–midApr; c ) Breckenridge spans five mountains

(Peaks 6 to 10), covering 2900 acres and featuring some of the best beginner and intermediate terrain in the state, as well as plenty of exhilarating high-alpine runs and hike-to bowls. There are also five terrain parks and two half-pipes here.

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Arapahoe Basin Ski Area SNOW SPORTS (% 970-468-0718; www.arapahoebasin.com; Hwy 6; lift adult/child 6-14yr $79/40; h 9am-4pm MonFri, from 8:30am Sat & Sun) Near the Continen-

tal Divide where US 6 crosses 11,992-foot Loveland Pass, 6 miles east of Keystone Resort and 90 miles west of Denver, Arapahoe Basin, aka A-Basin, is Colorado’s secondoldest, and North America’s highest ski area. Locals dig it because the lack of lodging and dining options (it’s a day-use ski area only) keeps the package tourists away.

z Festivals & Events Ullr Fest CULTURAL (www.gobreck.com; h early to mid Jan) The Ullr

Fest celebrates the Norse god of winter, with a wild parade and four-day festival featuring a twisted version of the Dating Game, an ice-skating party and a bonfire. International Snow Sculpture Championship ARTS (www.gobreck.com; h mid-Jan; c ) The Inter-

national Snow Sculpture Championship begins in mid-January and lasts for three weeks. It starts with ‘Stomping Week,’ when the snow blocks are made, proceeds with Sculpting Week, when the sculptures are created, and concludes with Viewing Week, when the sculptures decorate the River Walk and are enjoyed and judged by the public.

4 Sleeping For upscale slope-side rentals, contact Great

Western Lodging (% 888-453-1001; www.gwlodging.com; 322 N Main St; condos summer/winter from $125/275; paW ). Campers can look for USFS campgrounds (% 877-444-6777; www. recreation.gov) outside of town.

Fireside Inn B&B, HOSTEL $ (% 970-453-6456; www.firesideinn.com; 114 N French St; summer/winter dm $30/41, d $101/140; p a i W ) The best deal for budget travel-

ers in Summit County, this chummy hostel and B&B is a find. All guests can enjoy the chlorine-free barrel hot tub, fridge and microwave, movie nights with fellow ski bums and the resident snuggly dog. The English hosts are a delight and all but dorm dwellers get breakfast in the morning. It’s a 10-minute walk to the gondola in ski boots.

oAbbett Placer Inn

B&B $$

(% 970-453-6489; www.abbettplacer.com; 205 S French St; r summer $99-179, winter $119-229; p a i W ) This violet house has five large

rooms decked-out with wood furnishings, iPod docks and fluffy robes. It’s very low key. The warm and welcoming hosts cook big breakfasts, and guests can enjoy a lovely outdoor Jacuzzi deck and use of a common kitchenette. The top-floor room has massive views of the peaks from a private terrace. Check-in is from 4pm to 7pm.

5 Eating & Drinking Clint’s Bakery & Coffee House CAFE $ (131 S Main St; sandwiches $4.95-7.25; h 7am-8pm; W c ) The coolest coffee shop in town, where

brainy baristas will steam up a chalkboard full of latte and mocha flavors and dozens of loose-leaf teas. If you’re hungry, the downstairs bagelry stacks burly sandwiches and tasty breakfast bagels with egg and ham, lox, sausage and cheese. Good pastries too. The bagelry closes at 3pm. Hearthstone MODERN AMERICAN $$$ (% 970-453-1148; http://hearthstonerestaurant. biz; 130 S Ridge St; mains $26-44; h 4pm-late; v ) S One of Breck’s favorites, this restored

1886 Victorian churns out creative mountain fare such as blackberry elk and braised buffalo ribs with tomatillos, roasted chilies and polenta. Fresh and delicious, it’s definitely worth a splurge, or hit happy hour (4pm to 6pm) for $5 plates paired with wine. Downstairs at Eric’s BAR (www.downstairsaterics.com; 111 S Main St; h 11am-midnight; c ) Downstairs at Eric’s is

a Breckenridge institution. Locals flock to this game-room-style basement joint for the brews, burgers and delicious mashed potatoes. There are over 100 beers (20 on tap) to choose from and plenty of sports bar–arcade action.

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CLIMBING YOUR FIRST FOURTEENER Known as Colorado’s easiest fourteener, Quandary Peak (www.14ers.com; County Rd 851), near Breckenridge, is the state’s 15th-highest at 14,265ft. Though you will see plenty of dogs and children, ‘easiest’ may be misleading – the summit remains three grueling miles from the trailhead. The trail ascends to the west; after about 10 minutes of moderate climbing, follow the right fork to a trail junction. Head left, avoiding the road, and almost immediately you will snatch some views of Mt Helen and Quandary (although the real summit is still hidden). Just below the timberline you’ll meet the trail from Monte Cristo Gulch – note it so you don’t take the wrong fork on your way back down. From here it’s a steep haul to the top. Go between June and September. Start early and aim to turn around by noon, as afternoon lightning is typical during summer. It’s a 6-mile round-trip, taking roughly seven to eight hours. To get here, take Colorado 9 to County Rd 850. Make a right and turn right again onto 851. Drive 1.1 miles to the unmarked trailhead. Park parallel on the fire road.

1 Sights & Activities

Visitor Center (% 877-864-0868; www.gobreck.com; 203 S Main St; h 9am-9pm; W c ) Along with a host of maps and brochures, this center has a fantastic riverside museum that delves into Breck’s gold-mining past.

Colorado Ski Museum MUSEUM (www.skimuseum.net; 3rd fl, Vail Village parking lot exit; h 10am-5pm; c ) F Humble but in-

88 Getting There & Around Breckenridge is about 80 miles from Denver, 9 miles south of I-70 on Hwy 9. Colorado Mountain Express (% 800-5256363; www.coloradomountainexpress.com; adult/child $70/36; W ) runs shuttles between Breckenridge and Denver International Airport. Free buses (www.townofbreckenridge.com; 150 Watson Ave; h 8am-11:45pm) run along four routes throughout town. To get between Breckenridge, Keystone and Frisco, hop on free Summit Stages buses (% 970-668-0999; www.summitstage.com; 150 Watson Ave). To get to Vail, take the Fresh Tracks shuttle (% 970-453-4052; www.freshtrackstransportation.com; $20 1-way).

Vail Darling of the rich and sometime famous, Vail resembles an elaborate adult amusement park, with everything man-made from the golf greens down to the indoor waterfalls. It’s compact and highly walkable, but the location (I-70 runs alongside) lacks the natural drama of other Rocky Mountain destinations. That said, no serious skier would dispute its status as the best ski resort in Colorado, with its powdery back bowls, chutes and wickedly fun terrain.

formative, this museum takes you from the invention of skiing to the trials of the Tenth Mountain Division, a decorated WWII alpine unit that trained in these mountains. There are also hilarious fashions from the past, as well as the fledgling Colorado Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame.

oVail Mountain

SNOW SPORTS

(% 970-754-8245; www.vail.com; lift ticket adult/ child $129/89; h 9am-4pm Dec–mid-Apr; c ) Vail

Mountain is our favorite in the state, with 5289 skiable acres, 193 trails, three terrain parks and (ahem) the highest lift-ticket prices on the continent. If you’re a Colorado ski virgin, it’s worth paying the extra bucks to pop your cherry here – especially on a bluesky fresh-powder day. Multiday tickets are good at four other resorts (Beaver Creek, Breck, Keystone and Arapahoe Basin). Vail to Breckenridge Bike Path CYCLING (www.fs.usda.gov) This paved car-free bike

path stretches 8.7 miles from East Vail to the top of Vail Pass (elevation gain 1831ft), before descending 14 miles into Frisco (nine more if you go all the way to Breckenridge). If you’re only interested in the downhill, hop on a shuttle from a Bike Valet (% 970-476-

5385; www.bikevalet.net; 520 E Lionshead Cir; bike rental per day from $30; h 10am-5pm; c ) and

enjoy the ride back to Vail.

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88 Information

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THE ROCKIES FOR POWDER HOUNDS Well worth the five-hour road trip from Denver, Crested Butte promises deep powder and lovely open terrain, next to a mining outpost re-tooled to be one of Colorado’s coolest small towns. If you’re short on travel time, go directly to Summit County. Use lively Breckenridge as your base and conquer five areas on one combo lift ticket, including the mastodon resort of Vail, our favorite for remote back bowl terrain, and the ultra-local and laid-back Arapahoe Basin Ski Area. A-Basin stays open into June, when spring skiing means tailgating with beer and barbecue in between slush runs. From Crested Butte, you can head a little further south and ski the slopes at Telluride; from Summit County and Vail, Aspen is nearby. Both are true old gold towns. Be sure to devote at least a few hours to exploring Aspen’s glitzy shops and Telluride’s down-to-earth bars for a local vibe in a historic Wild West setting. From Aspen, catch a local flight up to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort to do some vertical powder riding in the Grand Tetons.

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4 Sleeping

5 Eating & Drinking

Vail is as expensive as Colorado gets, and lodging – generally private condo rentals – is very hit or miss.

oYellowbelly

Gore Creek Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; Bighorn Rd; tent sites $18; h mid-May–Sep; # ) This camp-

ground at the end of Bighorn Rd has 25 tent sites with picnic tables and fire grates nestled in the woods by Gore Creek. There is excellent fishing near here. Try the Slate Creek or Deluge Lake trails; the latter leads to a fishpacked lake. The campground is 6 miles east of Vail Village via exit 180 (East Vail) off I-70.

oMinturn Inn

B&B $$

(% 970-827-9647; www.minturninn.com; 442 Main St; r summer/winter from $100/150; p W ) If you

don’t need to be at the heart of the action in Vail, the rustic Minturn Inn should be your pick. Set in a 1915 log-hewn building in Minturn, this cozy B&B turns on the mountain charm with handcrafted log beds, river rock fireplaces and antlered decor. Reserve one of the newer River Lodge rooms for private Jacuzzi access.

oThe Sebastian

HOTEL $$$

(% 800-354-6908; www.thesebastianvail.com; 16 Vail Rd; r summer/winter from $230/500; paWs# ) Deluxe and modern, this so-

phisticated hotel showcases tasteful contemporary art and an impressive list of amenities, including a mountainside ski valet, luxury spa and adventure concierge. Room rates dip to reasonable in the summer, the perfect time to enjoy the tapas bar and spectacular pool area with hot tubs frothing and spilling over like champagne.

SOUTHERN $

(www.yellowbellychicken.com; unit 14, 2161 N Frontage Rd; plates $10; h 11am-8:30pm; pWc ) It

may be hidden in West Vail, but man is this fried chicken good. Although we could tout the healthy side of things (non-GMO, freerange, veggie-fed birds), it’s the dynamite gluten-free batter that earns this place its stars. Spicy, tender pieces of chicken come with two sides (brussel slaw, citrus quinoa, mac and cheese) and a drink; alternatively, order an entire rotisserie bird for the whole gang.

obōl

MODERN AMERICAN $$

(% 970-476-5300; www.bolvail.com; 141 E Meadow Dr; mains $14-28; h 5pm-1am, from 2pm in winter; W v c ) Half hip eatery, half space-age

bowling alley, bōl is hands down the funkiest hangout in Vail. You can take the kids bowling in the back ($50 per hour), but it’s the surprisingly eclectic menu that’s the real draw: creations range from a filling chicken paillard salad with gnocchi to shrimp and grits with grapefruit. Prices are relatively affordable by Vail standards. Reserve. Matsuhisa JAPANESE $$$ (% 970-476-6628; www.matsuhisavail.com; 141 E Meadow Dr; mains $29-39, 2 pieces sushi $8-12; h 6-10pm) Legendary chef Nobu Matsuhisa

has upped Vail’s culinary standards with this modern, airy space, set at the heart of the Solaris complex. Expect traditional sushi and tempura alongside his signature ‘new-style’ sashimi – Matsuhisa opened his first restaurant in Peru, and continues to incorporate South American influences into his cuisine. Star dishes include black cod with miso and scallops with jalapeño salsa. Reserve.

Los Amigos BAR (400 Bridge St; h 11:30am-9pm) If you want

views, tequila, and rock and roll with your après-ski ritual, come to Los Amigos. The Mexican food is decent at best, but the happyhour prices and slope-side seating more than make up for any culinary shortcomings.

88 Information Vail Visitor Center (% 970-479-1385; www.visitvailvalley.com; 241 S Frontage Rd; h 8:30am5:30pm winter, to 8pm summer; W )

88 Getting There & Around

Aspen Immodestly posh Aspen is Colorado’s glitziest high-octane resort, playing host to some of the wealthiest skiers in the world. The handsome, historic red-brick downtown is as alluring as the glistening slopes, but Aspen’s greatest asset is its magnificent scenery. The stunning alpine environment – especially during late September and October, when the aspen trees put on a spectacular display – just adds extra sugar to an already sweet cake.

oAspen Center for

Environmental Studies WILDLIFE SANCTUARY (ACES; % 970-925-5756; www.aspennature.org; 100 Puppy Smith St, Hallam Lake; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri; pc ) F The Aspen Center for Environ-

mental Studies is a 22-acre wildlife sanctuary that hugs the Roaring Fork River. With a mission to advance ‘the ethic that the earth must be respected and nurtured,’ the center’s naturalists provide summertime guided walks, raptor demonstrations and special programs for youngsters. Aspen Art Museum MUSEUM (% 970-925-8050; www.aspenartmuseum.org; 637 East Hyman Ave; h Tue- Sun, 10am-8pm) F

No permanent collection here, just edgy, innovative contemporary exhibitions featuring paintings, mixed media, sculpture, video installations and photography by artists such as Mamma Andersson, Mark Manders and Susan Phiipsz. Art lovers will not leave disappointed. Visit in August and you can experience its annual artCRUSH event, an art auction and wine-tasting extravaganza.

oAspen Mountain

SNOW SPORTS

(% 800-525-6200; www.aspensnowmass.com; lift ticket adult/child $117/82; h 9am-4pm Dec–midApr; c ) The Aspen Skiing Company operates

the area’s four resorts – Snowmass (best allaround choice with the longest vertical drop in the US), Aspen (intermediate/expert), the Highlands (expert) and Buttermilk (beginner/terrain parks) – which are spread out through the valley and connected by free shuttles. Both Aspen and Snowmass are open in summer (lift ticket adult/child $28/11; mid-June to September) for hiking, mountain biking and kids’ activities. Maroon Bells

WILDERNESS AREA

If you have but one day to enjoy a slice of the pristine, you’d be wise to spend it in the shadow of Colorado’s most iconic mountain peaks. Hikes range from a mile-long excursion (Crater Lake) to more serious challenges like Buckskin Pass (12,462ft). To get here, you’ll need to catch a shuttle (Aspen Highlands; adult/child $6/4; h 9am-4:30pm daily Jun 15-Aug, Fri-Sun Sep-Oct 6) from the

Highlands. The access road is only open to vehicle traffic ($10) from 5pm to 9am in summer.

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Eagle County Airport (% 970-328-2680; www. flyvail.com; 219 Eldon Wilson Dr), 35 miles west of Vail, has services to destinations across the country (many of which fly through Denver) and rental-car counters. Colorado Mountain Express (% 800-5256363; www.coloradomountainexpress.com; W ) shuttles run between Denver International Airport and Eagle County Airport ($84–99). Greyhound buses stop at the Vail Transportation Center (% 970-476-5137; 241 S Frontage Rd) en route to Denver ($37, 2½ hours) or Grand Junction ($33, three hours). Vail’s free buses (www.vailgov.com; h 6:30am-1:50am) shuttle between West Vail, Lionshead and Vail Village; most have ski/bike racks. ECO egional buses (ECO) (www.eaglecounty.us; per ride $4, to Leadville $7) also run to Beaver Creek, Minturn and Leadville. To get to Breckenridge and other Summit County resorts, take the Fresh Tracks shuttle (p255). Compact Vail Village, filled with upscale restaurants, bars and boutiques, is traffic free. Motorists must park in the public parking garage ($25 per day in winter, free in summer) before entering the pedestrian mall area near the chairlifts. Lionshead is a secondary base area about half a mile to the west; it also has a parking garage (same rates). It has direct lift access and is usually less crowded.

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1 Sights & Activities

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CYCLING TO MAROON BELLS According to the Aspen cycling gurus, the most iconic road-bike ride in Aspen is the one to the stunning Maroon Bells (p257). The climb is 11 lung-wrenching miles to the foot of one of the most picturesque wilderness areas in the Rockies. If you crave sweet, beautiful pain, rent two-wheelers at Aspen Bike Tours (% 970-925-9169; www.aspenbikerentals.com; 430 S Spring St; half/full day adult from $33/40, child $22/29; h 9am-6pm; c ).

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4 Sleeping Aspen is popular year-round. Reserve well in advance. The Aspen Ranger District (% 970-925-

3445; www.fs.usda.gov/whiteriver; 806 W Hallam St; h 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) operates some 20 campgrounds (% 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; campsites $15-21) in the Maroon Bells,

Independence Pass and Hunter–Fryingpan wilderness areas. St Moritz Lodge HOSTEL $ (% 970-925-3220; www.stmoritzlodge.com; 334 W Hyman Ave; dm summer/winter $60/66, d summer $130-269, d winter $155-299; p a i W s )

St Moritz is the best no-frills deal in town. Perks include a heated outdoor pool and grill overlooking Aspen Mountain, and a lobby with games, books and a piano. The European-style lodge offers a wide variety of options, from quiet dorms to two-bedroom condos; the cheapest options share bathrooms. There’s a kitchen downstairs. Annabelle Inn HOTEL $$ (% 877-266-2466; www.annabelleinn.com; 232 W Main St; r summer/winter from $169/199; paiW ) Personable and unpretentious,

the cute and quirky Annabelle Inn resembles an old-school European-style ski lodge in a central location. Rooms are cozy without being too cute, and come with flat-screen TVs and warm duvets. We enjoyed the after-dark ski video screenings from the upper-deck hot tub (one of two on the property).

oLimelight Hotel

HOTEL $$$

(% 800-433-0832; www.limelighthotel.com; 355 S Monarch St; r summer/winter from $245/395; paWs# ) Sleek and trendy, the Lime-

light’s brick-and-glass modernism reflects Aspen’s vibe. Rooms are spacious and have

their perks: granite washbasins, leather headboards and mountain views from the balconies and rooftop terraces. In addition to the ski valet and transportation services, you can also catch live music most winter nights in the lobby’s Italian restaurant. Breakfast is included.

5 Eating & Drinking oJustice Snow’s

MODERN AMERICAN $$

(% 970-429-8192; www.justicesnows.com; 328 E Hyman Ave; mains $10-22; h 11am-2am; Wv ) S

Located in the historic Wheeler Opera House, Justice Snow’s is a retro-fitted old saloon that marries antique wooden furnishings with a deft modern touch. Although nominally a bar – the speakeasy cocktails are the soul of the place – the affordable and locally sourced menu ($10 gourmet burger! in Aspen!) is what keeps the locals coming back.

oPine Creek Cookhouse

AMERICAN $$$

(% 970-925-1044; www.pinecreekcookhouse. com; 12700 Castle Creek Rd; lunch & summer dinner mains $13-41, winter dinner with ski tour/sleigh $90/110; h 11:30am-2:30pm daily, 2:30-8:30pm Wed-Sun Jun-Sep, seatings at noon & 1:30pm daily, plus 7pm Wed-Sun Dec-Mar; vc ) S This

log-cabin restaurant, located 1.5 miles past the Ashcroft ghost town at the end of Castle Creek Rd (about 30min from Aspen), boasts the best setting around. In summer you can hike here; in winter it’s cross-country skis or horse-drawn sleigh in the shadow of glorious white-capped peaks. Sample alpine delicacies like house-smoked trout, buffalo tenderloin and grilled elk brats. Meatball Shack ITALIAN $$$ (% 970-925-1349; www.themeatballshack.com; 312 S Mill St; lunch $13, dinner $21-28; h 11:30am11:30pm; c ) S Helmed by Florentine chef

Eddie Baida and NYC transplant Michael Gurtman, the shack specializes in – you guessed it – fettuccine and meatballs (nonna’s, chicken or veal). It’s quite the happening place come evening, but forget about the scene for a minute and concentrate on what’s on your plate: those locally sourced ingredients definitely make a difference.

oAspen Brewing Co

BREWERY

(www.aspenbrewingcompany.com; 304 E Hopkins Ave; h noon-late; W ) With six signature fla-

vors and a sun-soaked balcony facing the mountain, this is definitely the place to unwind after a hard day’s play. Brews range from the flavorful This Year’s Blonde and

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high-altitude Independence Pass Ale (its IPA) to the mellower Conundrum Red Ale and the chocolaty Pyramid Peak Porter. Woody Creek Tavern PUB (% 970-923-4585; www.woodycreektavern.com; 2 Woody Creek Plaza, 2858 Upper River Rd; h 11am10pm) Enjoying a 100% agave tequila and

fresh-lime margarita at the late, great gonzo journalist Hunter S Thompson’s favorite watering hole is well worth the 8-mile trek from Aspen. Here since 1980, this rustic funky tavern, a local haunt for decades now, has walls that are plastered with newspaper clippings and paraphernalia (mostly dedicated to Thompson).

Aspen Visitor Center (% 970-925-1940; www.aspenchamber.org; 425 Rio Grande Pl; h 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Located across from Rio Grande Park.

88 Getting There & Around Four miles north of Aspen on Hwy 82, Aspen-Pitkin County Airport (% 970-920-5380; www.aspenairport.com; 233 E Airport Rd; W ) has direct flights from Denver, Los Angeles, Dallas and Chicago. Colorado Mountain Express (% 800-525-6363; www.coloradomountainexpress.com; adult/child to DIA $118/61; W ) runs frequent shuttles to/from Denver International Airport (three hours). Roaring Fork Transit Agency (www.rfta. com) buses connect Aspen with all four ski areas (free) and runs free trips to and from Aspen-Pitkin County Airport. If you’re driving, it’s easiest to park in the public garage ($15 per day) next to the Aspen Visitor Center on Rio Grande Pl.

Salida Blessed with one of the state’s largest historic downtowns, Salida is not only a charming spot to explore, it also has an unbeatable location, with the Arkansas River on one side and the intersection of two mighty mountain ranges on the other. The plan of attack here is to raft, bike or hike during the day, then come back to town to refuel with grilled buffalo ribs and a cold IPA at night.

2 Activities Most rafting companies are based just south of Buena Vista (25 miles north of Salida), near where Hwys 24 and 285 diverge.

in the Buena Vista–Salida swirl, offering a range of trips that run every bit of the 99 miles of the Arkansas River. River Runners RAFTING (% 800-723-8987; www.riverrunnersltd.com; 24070 County Rd 301; half/full day adult $60/98, child $50/88; h May-Sep; c ) Recommended

river outfitter based in both Buena Vista and Cañon City, and in the business of guiding trips since 1972. It does everything from placid float trips to thrilling outings on class V rapids. Absolute Bikes BICYCLE RENTAL (% 719-539-9295; www.absolutebikes.com; 330 W Sackett Rd; bike rental $40-80, tours from $90; h 9am-7pm; c ) The place to go for bike en-

thusiasts, offering maps, gear, advice and rentals. Check out the selection of guided rides, ranging from St Elmo ghost town to the Monarch Crest.

4 Sleeping The Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area operates six campgrounds (bring your own water) along the river. The nicest one is Hecla Junction (% 800-678-2267; http://coloradostateparks.reserveamerica.com; Hwy 285, Mile 135; tent/RV sites $16/24 ; # ), located north of

Salida. Reserve in summer.

oSimple Lodge & Hostel

HOSTEL $

(% 719-650-7381; www.simplelodge.com; 224 E 1st St; dm/d/q $24/55/76; pW # ) If only Col-

orado had more spots like this. Run by a super-friendly husband-wife team (Jon and Julia), this hostel is simple but stylish, with a fully stocked kitchen and a comfy communal area that feels just like home. It’s a popular stopover for touring cyclists following the coast-to-coast Rte 50 – you’re likely to meet some interesting folks here.

5 Eating oAmícas

PIZZA $

(www.amicassalida.com; 136 E 2nd St; pizzas & paninis $8-12; h 11:30am-9pm; vc ) Thin-crust

wood-fired pizzas and six microbrews on tap? Amícas can do no wrong. This laid-back, high-ceilinged hangout (formerly a funeral parlor) is the perfect spot to replenish all those calories you burned off during the day. Savor a Michelangelo (pesto, sausage and

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88 Information

Buffalo Joe’s Whitewater Rafting RAFTING (% 866-283-3563; www.buffalojoe.com; 113 N Railroad St; half/full day adult $64/98, child $54/78; h May-Sep; c ) One of the top river outfitters

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RAFTING THE ARKANSAS RIVER

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The headwaters of the Arkansas form Colorado’s most popular stretch of river for rafters and kayakers, with everything from extreme rapids to mellow flat water. Although most rafting companies cover the river from Leadville to the Royal Gorge, the most popular trips descend Brown’s Canyon, a 22-mile stretch that includes class III/IV rapids. If you’re with young kids or just looking for something mellower, Bighorn Sheep Canyon is a good bet. Those after more of an adrenaline rush can head upstream to the Numbers or downstream to the Royal Gorge, both of which are class IV/V. Water flow varies by season, so time your visit for early June for a wilder ride – by the time August rolls around, the water level is usually pretty low. If you’re rafting with kids, note that they need to be six or older and weigh at least 50lb.

goat cheese) or Vesuvio (artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted peppers) alongside a cool glass of Headwaters IPA. Fritz TAPAS $ (% 719-539-0364; http://thefritzdowntown.com; 113 East Sackett St; tapas $4-8, mains $9-14; h 11am-2am; W ) This fun and funky river-

side watering hole serves up clever American-style tapas. Think three-cheese mac with bacon, fries and truffle aioli, shrimp curry, and even bone marrow with redonion jam. It also does a mean grass-fed beef burger and other sandwiches at lunch. Good selection of local beers on tap.

88 Information USFS Ranger Office (% 719-539-3591; www. fs.usda.gov; 5575 Cleora Rd; h 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Located east of town off Hwy 50, with camping and trail info for the Sawatch and northern Sangre de Cristo Ranges.

88 Getting There & Away Salida is located at the intersection of Hwys 285 and 50, west of Cañon City and south of Leadville. You’ll need your own car to get here.

Colorado Springs The site of one of the country’s first destination resorts, Colorado Springs sits at the foot of majestic Pikes Peak. Pinned down with four military bases and recently beset by a series of devastating summer wildfires, the city has evolved into a strange and sprawling quilt of neighborhoods – visitors can best come to grips with the layout by dividing it in three. From east to west along Hwy 24 is the downtown district, an odd mix of fine art, Olympic dreams and downbeat desperation; Old Colorado City, whose Old West brothels and saloons now host restaurants and shops; and new-agey Manitou Springs, whose mountainside location makes it the most visitor-friendly part of town.

1 Sights & Activities oPikes Peak

MOUNTAIN

(% 719-385-7325; www.springsgov.com; highway per adult/child $12/5; h 7:30am-8pm Jun-Aug, 7:30am-5pm Sep, 9am-3pm Oct-May; c ) Pikes

Peak (14,110ft) may not be the tallest of Colorado’s 54 14ers, but it’s certainly the most famous. The Ute originally called it the Mountain of the Sun, an apt description for this majestic peak, which crowns the southern Front Range. Rising 7400ft straight up from the plains, the mountain is climbed by over half a million visitors every year. Its location as the easternmost 14er has contributed heavily to its place in American myth. Zebulon Pike first made note of it in 1806 (he called it ‘Grand Peak’ but never made it to the top) when exploring the Louisiana Purchase. Katherine Bates, a guest lecturer at Colorado College in 1893, wrote the original draft of America the Beautiful after reaching the summit. Today there are three ways to ascend the peak: the Pikes Peak Hwy (about a five hour round-trip), which was built in 1915 by Spencer Penrose and winds 19 miles to the top from Hwy 24 west of town; the cog railway (% 719-685-5401; www.cograilway.com; 515 Ruxton Ave; round-trip adult/child $35/19; h 8am-5:20pm May-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Apr; c ); and on foot

via the Barr Trail.

Garden of the Gods PARK (www.gardenofgods.com; 1805 N 30th St; h 5am11pm May-Oct, 5am-9pm Nov-Apr; pc ) F

This gorgeous vein of red sandstone (about

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290 million years old) appears elsewhere along Colorado’s Front Range, but the exquisitely thin cathedral spires and mountain backdrop of the Garden of the Gods are particularly striking. Explore the network of paved and unpaved trails, enjoy a picnic and watch climbers test their nerve on the sometimes flaky rock.

oColorado Springs

Fine Arts Center MUSEUM (FAC; % 719-634-5583; www.csfineartscenter.org; 30 W Dale St; adult/student $10/8.50; h 10am5pm Tue-Sun; p ) Fully renovated in 2007, this

US Air Force Academy MILITARY ACADEMY (% 719-333-2025; www.usafa.af.mil; I-25 exit 156B; h visitor center 9am-5pm; p ) F It is one of

the highest-profile military academies in the country, and a visit to this campus offers a limited but nonetheless fascinating look into the lives of an elite group of cadets. The visitor center provides general background on the academy; from here you can walk over to the dramatic chapel (1963) or embark on a driving tour of the expansive grounds. Barr Trail HIKING (www.barrcamp.com; Hydro St) The tough 12.5-

mile Barr Trail ascends Pikes Peak with a substantial 7400ft of elevation gain. Most hikers split the trip into two days, stopping to overnight at Barr Camp, the halfway point at 10,200ft. The trailhead is near the Manitou Springs cog railway depot; parking is $5.

4 Sleeping Barr Camp CAMPGROUND $ (www.barrcamp.com; tent sites $12, lean-tos $17, cabin dm $28; # ) At the halfway point on the

Barr Trail, about 6.5 miles from the Pikes Peak summit, you can pitch a tent, shelter in a lean-to or reserve a bare-bones cabin. It has drinking water and showers; dinner ($8) is available Wednesday to Sunday. Reservations are essential and must be made online in advance. It’s open year-round. Mining Exchange HOTEL $$ (% 719-323-2000; www.wyndham.com; 8 S Nevada Ave; r $135-200; paW ) Opened in 2012 and

set in the former turn-of-the-century bank

Two Sisters Inn B&B $$ (% 719-685-9684; www.twosisinn.com; 10 Otoe Pl, Manitou Springs; r without bath $79-94, with bath $135-155; p a W ) A longtime favorite among

B&B aficionados, this place has five rooms (including the honeymoon cottage out back) set in a rose-colored Victorian home, built in 1919 by two sisters. It was originally a boarding house for school teachers, and has been an inn since 1990. It has a magnificent stained-glass front door and an 1896 piano in the parlor. The inn has won awards for its breakfast recipes. Broadmoor RESORT $$$ (% 855-634-7711; www.broadmoor.com; 1 Lake Ave; r from $280-500; p aW s# ) One of the

top five-star resorts in the US, the 744-room Broadmoor sits in a picture-perfect location against the blue-green slopes of Cheyenne Mountain. Everything here is exquisite: acres of lush grounds and a lake, a glimmering pool, world-class golf, myriad bars and restaurants, an incredible spa and ubercomfortable guest rooms (which, it must be said, are of the ‘grandmother’ school of design).

5 Eating & Drinking Shuga’s CAFE $ (www.shugas.com; 702 S Cascade St; dishes $8-9; h 11am-midnight; W c ) If you thought Colo-

rado Springs couldn’t be hip, stroll to Shuga’s, a Southern-style cafe with a knack for knockout espresso drinks and hot cocktails. Cuter than buttons, this little white house is decked out in paper cranes and red vinyl chairs. There’s also patio seating. The food – brie BLT on rosemary toast, Brazilian coconut shrimp soup – comforts and delights. Don’t miss vintage-movie Saturdays.

oMarigold

FRENCH $$

(% 719-599-4776; www.marigoldcafeandbakery. com; 4605 Centennial Blvd; lunch $8.25-11, dinner $9-19; h 11am-2:30pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat, bakery 8am-9pm) Way out by the Garden of the Gods

is this buzzy French bistro and bakery that’s easy on both the palate and the wallet. Feast

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expansive museum and 400-seat theater originally opened in 1936. The museum’s collection is surprisingly sophisticated, with some terrific Latin American art and photography, and great rotating exhibits that draw from the 23,000 pieces in its permanent collection.

where Cripple Creek prospectors traded in their gold for cash (check out the vault door in the lobby), the Mining Exchange takes the prize for Colorado Spring’s most stylish hotel. Twelve-foot-high ceilings, exposed brick walls and leather furnishings make for an inviting, contemporary feel, though its downtown location is better suited to businesspeople than tourists. Excellent-value rates.

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CRIPPLE CREEK CASINOS

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Just an hour from Colorado Springs yet worlds away, Cripple Creek hurls you back into the Wild West. This once lucky lady had produced a staggering $413 million in gold by 1952. The booze still flows and gambling still thrives, but yesteryear’s saloons and brothels are now modern casinos. If you’re more interested in regional history or simply need a break from the slots, check out the Heritage Center (www.visitcripplecreek.com; 9283 Hwy 67; h 8am-7pm; c ), the popular gold mine tour (www.goldminetours.com; 9388 Hwy 67; adult/child $18/10; h 8:45am-6pm mid-May–Oct; c ) and the narrow gauge railroad (http://cripplecreekrailroad.com; Bennet Ave; adult/child $13/8; h 10am-5pm mid-May–midOct; c # ) to historic Victor. Cripple Creek is 50 miles southwest of Colorado Springs on scenic Hwy 67. For an even more impressive drive, check out the old Gold Camp Rd (Hwy 336) out of Victor on the way home. It’s unpaved and narrow, but provides spectacular views. It takes about 90 minutes down to the Springs. Alternatively, catch the Ramblin’ Express (% 719-5908687; www.ramblinexpress.com; round-trip tickets $25; h departures 7am-midnight Wed-Sun) from Colorado Springs’ 8th St Depot.

on delicacies such as snapper Marseillaise, garlic and rosemary rotisserie chicken, and gourmet salads and pizzas, and be sure to leave room for the double (and triple!) chocolate mousse cake and lemon tarts. Adam’s Mountain Cafe MODERN AMERICAN $$ (% 719-685-1430; www.adamsmountain.com; 934 Manitou Ave; mains $9-19; h 8am-3pm daily, 5-9pm Tue-Sat; Wvc ) In Manitou Springs, this

slow-food cafe makes a lovely stop. Breakfast includes orange-almond French toast and huevos rancheros (eggs and beans on a tortilla). Lunch and dinner are more eclectic with offerings such as Moroccan chicken, pasta gremolata and grilled watermelon salad. The interior is airy and attractive with marble floors and exposed rafters, and it has patio dining and occasional live music too. Jake & Telly’s GREEK $$ (% 719-633-0406; www.greekdining.com; 2616 W Colorado Ave; lunch $9-12, dinner $16-25; h 11:30am-9pm; Wc ) One of the best choic-

es in Old Colorado City, this Greek eatery looks and sounds slightly touristy – lots of Greek monument murals on the walls and themed music on the stereo – but the food is absolutely delicious. It does a nice Greek-dip sandwich as well as traditional dishes such as souvlaki, dolmades and spanakopita. It’s set on a 2nd-story terrace above a magic wand shop.

oSwirl

WINE BAR

(www.swirlwineemporium.com; 717 Manitou Ave; h noon-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Behind a stylish bottle shop in Manitou Springs, this nook bar is intimate and cool.

The garden patio has dangling lights and vines while inside are antique armchairs and a fireplace. If you’re feeling peckish, sample the tapas and homemade pasta. Bristol Brewing Co BREWERY (www.bristolbrewing.com; 1604 S Cascade Ave; h 11am-10pm; W ) Although a bit out of the

way in south Colorado Springs, this brewery – which in 2013 spearheaded a community market center in the shuttered Ivywild Elementary School – is worth seeking out for its Laughing Lab ale and pub grub from the owner of the gourmet Blue Star (% 719-6321086; www.thebluestar.net; 1645 S Tejon St; mains $21-35; h from 3pm; p v ). Other back-to-

school tenants include a bakery, deli, cafe, art gallery and movie theater in the old gym.

88 Information Colorado Springs Convention & Visitors Bureau (% 719-635-7506; www.visitcos.com; 515 S Cascade Ave; h 8:30am-5pm; W ) All the usual tourist pamphlets.

88 Getting There & Around Colorado Springs Municipal Airport (p235) is a smaller and much more easily navigable alternative to Denver. The Yellow Cab (% 719-777-7777) fare from the airport to the city center is around $30. Buses between Cheyenne, WY, and Pueblo, CO, stop daily at Greyhound (% 719-635-1505; 120 S Weber St). Mountain Metropolitan Transit (www.springsgov.com; per trip $1.75, day pass $4) offers local bus information online.

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Southern Colorado

Home to the dramatic San Juan and Sangre de Cristo mountain ranges, Colorado’s bottom half is just as pretty as its top.

Crested Butte

6438; www.crestedbuttechamber.com; 601 Elk Ave;

Ouray With gorgeous ice falls draping the box canyon and soothing hot springs that dot the valley floor, Ouray is a privileged place for nature, even for Colorado. For ice-climbers it’s a world-class destination, but hikers and 4WD fans can also appreciate its rugged charms. The town is a well-preserved quarter-mile mining village sandwiched between imposing peaks. Between Silverton and Ouray, US 550 is one of the state’s most memorable drives and is paved, but the road is scary in rain or snow, so take extra care.

h 9am-5pm).

2 Activities

Crested Butte Mountain Resort (% 970349-2222; www.skicb.com; 12 Snowmass Rd; lift ticket adult/child $98/54; c ) is surrounded

The visitor center is at the hot-springs pool. Check out their leaflet on an excellent walking tour that takes in two-dozen houses and other buildings constructed between 1880 and 1904.

Two miles north of the town at the base of the impressive mountain of the same name,

by forests, rugged mountain peaks and the West Elk, Raggeds and Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Areas. The scenery is breathtakingly beautiful. It caters mostly to intermediate and expert riders. Crested Butte International Hostel (% 970-349-0588, toll-free 888-389-0588; www. crestedbuttehostel.com; 615 Teocalli Ave; dm/d shared bath $36/89, r $104-109; W ) is one of

Colorado’s nicest hostels. The best private rooms have their own baths. Dorm bunks come with reading lamps and lockable drawers. The communal area is mountain rustic with a stone fireplace and comfortable couches. Rates vary dramatically by season, with fall being cheapest. With phenomenal food, the funky-casual

Secret Stash (% 970-349-6245; www.thesecretstash.com; 303 Elk Ave; mains $8-24; h 8amlate; vc ) is adored by locals, who also dig

the original cocktails. The house specialty is pizza; its Notorious Fig (with prosciutto, fresh figs and truffle oil) won the World Pizza Championship. Crested Butte’s air link to the outside world is Gunnison County Airport (% 970641-2304), 28 miles south of the town. Shuttle Alpine Express (% 970-641-5074; www. alpineexpressshuttle.com; per person $34) goes to Crested Butte; reserve ahead in summer. The free Mountain Express (% 970-349-7318; www.mtnexp.org) connects Crested Butte with

Ouray Ice Park ICE CLIMBING (% 970-325-4061; www.ourayicepark.com; Hwy 361; h 7am-5pm mid-Dec–Mar; c ) F En-

thusiasts from around the globe come to ice climb at the world’s first public ice park, spanning a 2-mile stretch of the Uncompahgre Gorge. The sublime (if chilly) experience offers something for all skill levels. Get instruction through a local guide service. Ouray Hot Springs HOT SPRING (% 970-325-7073; www.ourayhotsprings.com; 1200 Main St; adult/child $12/8; h 10am-10pm Jun-Aug, noon-9pm Mon-Fri & 11am-9pm Sat & Sun Sep-May; c ) For a healing soak, try the historic Ouray

Hot Springs. The natural springwater is crystal-clear and free of the sulphur smells plaguing other hot springs around here, and the giant pool features a variety of soaking areas at temperatures from 96°F to 106°F (36°C to 41°C). The complex also offers a gym and massage service. San Juan Mountain Guides CLIMBING, SKIING (% 800-642-5389, 970-325-4925; www.ourayclimbing.com; 725 Main St; c ) Ouray’s own

professional guiding and climbing group is certified with the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA). It specializes in ice and rock climbing and wilderness backcountry skiing.

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Remote and ringed by three wilderness areas, this former mining village is counted among Colorado’s best ski resorts (some say it’s the best). The old town center features beautifully preserved Victorian-era buildings refitted with shops and businesses. Strolling two-wheel traffic matches its laidback, happy attitude. Most everything in town is on Elk Ave, including the visitor center (% 970-349-

Mt Crested Butte every 15 minutes in winter, less often in other seasons; check times at bus stops.

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z Festivals & Events Ouray Ice Festival ICE CLIMBING (% 970-325-4288; www.ourayicefestival.com; donation for evening events; h Jan; c ) The Ouray Ice

Festival features four days of climbing competitions, dinners, slide shows and clinics. There’s even a climbing wall set up for kids. You can watch the competitions for free, but various evening events require a donation to the ice park. Once inside, you’ll get free brews from popular Colorado brewer New Belgium.

4 Sleeping & Eating Ro c k y M o u ntai ns S FCeo olor sti u thva a e rn do ls & C olor E v e nts a do

Amphitheater Forest Service Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; US Hwy 550; tent sites $20; h Jun-Aug) With great

tent sites under the trees, this high-altitude campground is a score. On holiday weekends a three-night minimum applies. South of town on Hwy 550, take a signposted lefthand turn.

oWiesbaden

HOTEL $$

(% 970-325-4347; www.wiesbadenhotsprings.com; 625 5th St; r $132-347; nWs ) Quirky, quaint

and new age, Wiesbaden even boasts a natural indoor vapor cave, which, in another era, was frequented by Chief Ouray. Rooms with quilted bedcovers are cozy and romantic, but the sunlit suite with a natural rock wall tops all. In the morning, guests roam in thick robes, drinking the free organic coffee or tea, post-soak or awaiting massages.

Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs LODGE $$ (% 800-327-5080, 970-325-4981; www.boxcanyonouray.com; 45 3rd Ave; r $120-218; W ) S It’s

not every hotel that offers geothermal heated rooms, and pine-board rooms prove spacious and fresh. Spring-fed barrel hot tubs are perfect for a romantic stargazing soak. With good hospitality that includes free apples and bottled water, it’s popular, so book ahead. Buen Tiempo Mexican Restaurant & Cantina MEXICAN $$ (% 970-325-4544; 515 Main St; mains $7-20; h 610pm; v ) This good-time spot bursts with

bar-stool squatters and booths of families. From the chili-rubbed sirloin to the posole with warm tortillas, Buen Tiempo delivers. Start with a signature margarita with chips and spicy homemade salsa. End with a satisfying scoop of deep-fried ice cream. But to find out how the dollars got on the ceiling, it will cost you.

88 Information Ouray Visitors Center (% 800-228-1876, 970325-4746; www.ouraycolorado.com; 1230 Main St; h 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; W c ) Staffed by volunteers, this useful visitor center has brochures and the usual information. It’s near the Ouray hot-springs pool.

88 Getting There & Away Ouray is 24 miles north of Silverton along US 550 and best reached by private vehicle.

SCENIC DRIVE: SAN JUAN MOUNTAIN PASSES With rugged peaks and deep canyon drops, the scenery of the San Juan mountain range is hard to beat. Suitable for all vehicles, the Million Dollar Highway (US 550) takes its name from the valuable ore in the roadbed. But the scenery is also golden – the paved road clings to crumbly mountains, passing old mine-head frames and big alpine scenery. A demanding but fantastic drive, the 65-mile Alpine Loop Backcountry Byway (www.alpineloop.com) begins in Ouray and travels east to Lake City – a wonderful mountain hamlet worth a visit – before looping back to its starting point. Along the way you’ll cross two 12,000ft mountain passes and swap pavement and people for solitude, spectacular views and abandoned mining haunts. You’ll need a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and some off-road driving skills to conquer this drive; allow six hours. Spectacular during autumn for the splendor of its yellow aspens, Ophir Pass connects Ouray to Telluride via a former wagon road. The moderate 4WD route passes former mines, with a gradual ascent to 11,789ft. To get there, drive south of Ouray on Hwy 550 for 18.1 miles to the right-hand turnoff for National Forest Access, Ophir Pass. As with all 4WD routes and mountain passes, check for road closures before going. The road can be dangerous in wet or frozen conditions, so drive carefully.

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Telluride

2 Activities Telluride Ski Resort SNOW SPORTS (% 970-728-7533, 888-288-7360; www.tellurideskiresort.com; 565 Mountain Village Blvd; adult/ child full-day lift ticket $112/67) Covering three

distinct areas, Telluride Ski Resort is served by 16 lifts. Much of the terrain is for advanced and intermediate skiers, but there’s still ample choice for beginners.

z Festivals & Events oMountainfilm

FILM

A four-day screening of outdoor adventure and environmental films. (www.mountainfilm.org;

h May)

Telluride Bluegrass Festival MUSIC (% 800-624-2422; www.planetbluegrass.com; 4-day pass $205; h late Jun) This festival attracts

thousands for a weekend of top-notch rollicking alfresco bluegrass. Stalls sell all sorts of food and local microbrews to keep you happy, and acts continue well into the night. Camping out for the four-day festival is very popular. Check the website for info on sites, shuttle services and combo ticket-and-camping packages – it’s all very organized! Telluride Film Festival FILM (% 603-433-9202; www.telluridefilmfestival.com; h early Sep) National and international films

are premiered throughout town, and the event attracts big-name stars. For more information on the relatively complicated pricing scheme, visit the film-festival website.

COLORADO HUT-TO-HUT An exceptional way to enjoy hundreds of miles of single-track in summer or virgin powder slopes in winter, San Juan Hut Systems (% 970-626-3033; www. sanjuanhuts.com; per person $30) continues the European tradition of hut-to-hut adventures with five backcountry mountain huts. Bring just your food, flashlight and sleeping bag: amenities include padded bunks, propane stoves, wood stoves for heating and firewood. The website has helpful tips and information on rental skis, bikes and (optional) guides based in Ridgway or Ouray.

4 Sleeping Telluride’s lodgings can fill quickly, and for the best rates it’s best to book online. Unless you’re planning to camp, however, don’t expect budget deals. Telluride Town Park Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 970-728-2173; 500 E Colorado Ave; campsite with/without vehicle space $23/17; h mid-May– mid-Oct; W s ) Right in the center of town,

it has 20 sites with shower access ($1.50 for a hot shower). It fills up quickly in the high season. There are many other campgrounds within 10 miles of town; check with the visitor center for more info.

Victorian Inn LODGE $$ (% 970-728-6601; www.victorianinntelluride.com; 401 W Pacific Ave; r from $124; n aW ) The

smell of fresh cinnamon rolls greets visitors at one of Telluride’s better deals, offering comfortable rooms (some with kitchenettes) and a hot tub and dry sauna. Best off all, there are fantastic lift-ticket deals for guests. Kids aged 12 years and under stay free, and you can’t beat the downtown location. Hotel Columbia HOTEL $$$ (% 970-728-0660, toll-free 800-201-9505; www. columbiatelluride.com; 300 W San Juan Ave; d/ ste from $265/365; p naW s ) Since pricey

digs are a given, skiers might as well stay right across the street from the gondola. Locally owned and operated, this stylish and swank hotel pampers. Store your gear in the ski and boot storage and head directly to a room with espresso maker, fireplace and heated tile floors. With shampoo dispensers and recycling, it’s also pretty eco-friendly.

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Surrounded on three sides by mastodon peaks, exclusive Telluride feels cut off from the hubbub of the outside world, and it often is. Once a rough mining town, today it’s dirtbag-meets-diva – mixing the few who can afford the real estate with those scratching out a slope-side living for the sport of it. The town center still has palpable old-time charm and the surroundings are simply gorgeous. Colorado Ave, also known as Main St, is where you’ll find most businesses. From downtown you can reach the ski mountain via two lifts and the gondola. The latter also links Telluride with Mountain Village, the true base for the Telluride Ski Area. Located 7 miles from town along Hwy 145, Mountain Village is a 20-minute drive east, but is only 12 minutes away by gondola (free for foot passengers).

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TELLURIDE’S GREAT OUTDOORS Sure, the festivals are great, but there’s much more to a Telluride summer.

Mountain Biking

Follow the River Trail from Town Park to Hwy 145 for 2 miles. Join Mill Creek Trail west of the Texaco gas station, it climbs and follows the contour of the mountain and ends at the Jud Wiebe Trail (hikers only).

Hiking

Just over 2 miles, Bear Creek Trail ascends 1040ft to a beautiful cascading waterfall. From here you can access the strenuous Wasatch Trail, a 12-mile loop that heads west across the mountains to Bridal Veil Falls – Telluride’s most impressive waterfalls. The Bear Creek trailhead is at the south end of Pine St, across the San Miguel River.

Cycling

A 31-mile (one-way) trip, Lizard Head Pass features amazing mountain panoramas.

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5 Eating & Drinking For the best deals, look for food carts serving Mediterranean food, hot dogs, tacos and coffee on Colorado Ave. The Butcher & The Baker CAFE $ (% 970-728-3334; 217 E Colorado Ave; mains $10; h 7am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun; c ) S Two

veterans of upscale local catering started this heartbreakingly cute cafe, and no one beats it for breakfast. Hearty sandwiches with local meats are the perfect takeout for the trail and there are heaps of baked goods and fresh sides.

oThere

TAPAS, COCKTAIL BAR $$

(% 970-728-1213; http://therebars.com; 627 W Pacific Ave; mains $6-28; h 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) A hip social alcove for

cocktails and nibbling, plus weekend brunch. Bigger appetites can dine on shareable mains such as whole Colorado trout. On a comicbook-style menu, East meets West in yummy lettuce wraps, duck ramen and sashimi tostadas, paired with original hand-shaken drinks. We liked the jalapeño kiss. La Cocina de Luz MEXICAN, ORGANIC $$ (www.lacocinatelluride.com; 123 E Colorado Ave; mains $9-19; h 9am-9pm; v ) S As they lov-

ingly serve two Colorado favorites (organic and Mexican), it’s no wonder that the lunch line runs deep at this healthy taqueria. Order the achiote pulled pork and you might be full until tomorrow. Delicious details include a salsa and chip bar, handmade tortillas and margaritas with organic lime and agave nectar. With vegan and gluten-free options too.

New Sheridan Bar BAR (% 970-728-3911; www.newsheridan.com; 231 W Colorado Ave; h 5pm-2am) Well worth a visit

in low season for some real local flavor and opinions. At other times, it’s a rush hour of beautiful people. But old bullet holes in the wall testify to the plucky survival of the bar itself, even as the adjoining hotel sold off chandeliers and antiques to pay the heating bills when mining fortunes waned.

3 Entertainment Fly Me to the Moon Saloon LIVE MUSIC (% 970-728-6666; 132 E Colorado Ave; h 3pm2am) Let your hair down and kick up your

heels to the tunes of live bands at this saloon, the best place in Telluride to party hard.

Sheridan Opera House THEATER (% 970-728-4539; www.sheridanoperahouse.com; 110 N Oak St; c ) This historic venue has a

burlesque charm and is always the center of Telluride’s cultural life. It hosts the Telluride Repertory Theater and frequently has special performances for children.

88 Information Visitor Center (% 888-353-5473, 970-7283041; www.telluride.com; 398 W Colorado Ave; h 9am-5pm)

88 Getting There & Around Commuter aircraft serve the mesa-top Telluride Airport (% 970-778-5051; www.tellurideairport. com; Last Dollar Rd), 5 miles east of town on Hwy 145. If the weather is poor, flights may be diverted to Montrose, 65 miles north. For car rental, National and Budget both have airport locations.

26 7 In ski season Montrose has direct flights to and from Denver (on United), Houston, Phoenix and limited cities on the East Coast. Shared shuttles by Telluride Express (% 970728-6000; www.tellurideexpress.com) go from the Telluride Airport to town or Mountain Village for $15. Shuttles between the Montrose Airport and Telluride cost $50.

Orleans–inspired breakfasts, served in a chandelier-lit dining room, merit special mention. Cheaper rates are available without breakfast. There’s also a garden hot tub for soaking after a long day.

Silverton

choice for dinner. Locals come here for the stellar pizzas, friendly service and easy atmosphere. There’s a full bar with beers on tap, and the lasagna and freshly made salads are always good.

2 Activities In summer, Silverton has some of the West’s best 4WD trails. Traveling in modified Chevy Suburbans without the top, San Juan Back-

country (% 970-387-5565, toll-free 800-4948687; www.sanjuanbackcountry.com; 1119 Greene St; 2hr tour adult/child $60/40; h May-Oct; c )

S offers both tours and rental jeeps.

4 Sleeping & Eating Red Mountain Motel & RV Park MOTEL, CAMPGROUND $$ (% 970-382-5512, toll-free 800-970-5512; www. redmtmotelrvpk.com; 664 Greene St; motel r from $80, cabins from $70, RV/tent sites $38/22; h year-round; pnW# ) The tiny log cabins stay

warm and make good use of their limited space with a double bed, a bunk, a tiny TV and a fully outfitted kitchenette. The managers are friendly and keen to make sure guests and customers have a good time. It’s a pet-friendly place that stays open year-round. Inn of the Rockies at the Historic Alma House B&B $$ (% 970-387-5336, toll-free 800-267-5336; www. innoftherockies.com; 220 E 10th St; r incl breakfast $109-173; p na ) Opened by a local named

Alma in 1898, this inn has nine unique rooms furnished with Victorian antiques. The hospitality is first-rate and its New

6 Drinking & Nightlife oMontanya Distillers

BAR

(www.montanyadistillers.com; 1309 Greene St; mains $6-14; h noon-10pm) Under new management,

this regional favorite still delivers, now in a spacious minimalist bar on Greene St. On a summer day, score a seat on the rooftop deck. Bartenders here can talk you into anything, crafting exotic cocktails with homemade syrups and their very own award-winning rum. It’s worth it just for the fun atmosphere. Note: low season hours change.

88 Getting There & Away Silverton is 50 miles north of Durango and 24 miles south of Ouray off US 550.

Mesa Verde National Park Shrouded in mystery, Mesa Verde, with its cliff dwellings and verdant valley walls, is a fascinating, if slightly eerie, national park to explore. It is here that a civilization of Ancestral Puebloans appears to have vanished in AD 1300, leaving behind a complex civilization of cliff dwellings, some accessed by sheer climbs. Mesa Verde is unique among parks for its focus on preserving this civilization’s cultural relics so that future generations may continue to interpret the puzzling settlement, and subsequent abandonment, of the area. Mesa Verde rewards travelers who set aside a day or more to take the ranger-led tours of Cliff Palace and Balcony House, explore Wetherill Mesa or participate in one of the campfire programs. But if you only have time for a short visit, check out the Chapin Mesa Museum and walk through the Spruce Tree House, where you can climb down a wooden ladder into the cool chamber of a kiva (ceremonial structure, usually partly underground).

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Ringed by snowy peaks and steeped in sooty tales of a tawdry mining town, Silverton seems like it would be more at home in Alaska than the lower 48. But here it is. Whether you’re into snowmobiling, powder skiing, fly-fishing, beer on tap or just basking in some very high-altitude sunshine, Silverton delivers. It’s a two-street town, but only one is paved. The main drag, Greene St, is where you’ll find most businesses. Notorious Blair St, still unpaved, runs parallel to Greene and is a blast from the past. During the silver rush, Blair St was home to thriving brothels and boozing establishments.

Stellar ITALIAN $$ (% 970-387-9940; 1260 Blair St; mains $8-20; h 4-9:30pm; c ) This friendly place is a good

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1 Sights & Activities Chapin Mesa Museum MUSEUM (% 970-529-4475; www.nps.gov/meve; Chapin Mesa Rd; admission incl with park entry; h 8am-6:30pm Apr–mid-Oct, 8am-5pm mid-Oct–Apr; pc ) The

Chapin Mesa Museum has exhibits pertaining to the Mesa Verde National Park. It’s a good first stop. Staff at the museum provide information on weekends when the park headquarters is closed. Chapin Mesa

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

Ro c k y M o u ntai ns S C ights o olor u th a e& rn doActi C olor v itiaedo s

The largest concentration of Ancestral Puebloan sites is at Chapin Mesa, where you’ll see the densely clustered Far View Site and the large Spruce Tree House, the most accessible of sites, with a paved half-mile roundtrip path. If you want to see Cliff Palace or Balcony House, the only way is through an hourlong ranger-led tour booked in advance at the visitor center ($4). These tours are extremely popular; go early in the morning or a day in advance to book. Balcony House requires climbing a 32ft and 60ft ladder. Wetherill Mesa

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

This is the second-largest concentration of Ancestral Puebloan sites. Visitors may enter stabilized surface sites and two cliff dwellings, including the Long House, open from late May through August. South from Park Headquarters, the 6-mile Mesa Top Road connects excavated mesa-top sites, accessible cliff dwellings and vantage points to view inaccessible dwellings from the mesa rim.

oAramark Mesa Verde

HIKING

(% 970-529-4421; www.visitmesaverde.com; adult $42-48) The park concessionaire, Aramark

Mesa Verde, offers guided tours to excavated pit homes, cliff dwellings and the Spruce Tree House daily from May to mid-October.

4 Sleeping & Eating The nearby towns of Cortez and Mancos have plenty of midrange places to stay; inside the park there’s camping and a lodge. Morefield Campground CAMPGROUND $ (% 970-529-4465; www.visitmesaverde.com; North Rim Rd; tent/RV sites $30/40; h May-early Oct; # ) S The park’s camping option, located

4 miles from the entrance gate, also has 445 regular tent sites on grassy grounds conveniently located near Morefield Village. The village has a general store, gas station, restaurant, showers and laundry. It’s managed

by Aramark. Dry RV campsites (without hookup) cost the same as tent sites. Far View Lodge LODGE $$ (% 970-529-4421, toll-free 800-449-2288; www.visitmesaverde.com; North Rim Rd; r $117-177; h midApr–Oct; p n a W # ) Perched on a mesa top

15 miles inside the park entrance, this tasteful Pueblo-style lodge has 150 Southwestern-style rooms, some with kiva fireplaces. Don’t miss sunset over the mesa from your private balcony. Standard rooms don’t have air con (or TV) and summer daytimes can be hot. You can even bring your dog for an extra $10 per night. Far View Terrace Café CAFE $ (% 970-529-4421, toll-free 800-449-2288; www. visitmesaverde.com; North Rim Rd; dishes from $6; h 7-10am, 11am-3pm & 5-8pm May–mid-Oct; v c ) Housed in Far View Lodge immediate-

ly south of the visitor center, this self-service place offers reasonably priced meals and a convenient espresso bar. Don’t miss the house special: the Navajo Taco. Metate Room MODERN AMERICAN $$$ (% 800-449-2288; www.visitmesaverde.com; North Rim Rd; mains $18-29; h 7-10am & 5-7:30pm Apr–mid-Oct, 5-7:30pm mid-Oct–Mar; vc ) S

With an award in culinary excellence, this upscale restaurant in the Far View Lodge offers an innovative menu inspired by Native American food and flavors. Interesting dishes include stuffed poblano chilies, cinnamon chili pork tenderloin and grilled quail with prickly pear jam.

88 Information The park entrance is off US 160, midway between Cortez and Mancos. The 2012 Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center (% 800305-6053, 970-529-5034; www.nps.gov/meve; North Rim Rd; h 8am-7pm Jun-early Sep, 8am5pm early Sep–mid-Oct, closed mid-Oct–May; c ), located near the entrance, has information and news on park closures (many areas are closed in winter). It also sells tickets for tours ($3) of the magnificent Cliff Palace or Balcony House.

Durango An archetypal old Colorado mining town, Durango is a regional darling that is nothing short of delightful. Its graceful hotels, Victorian-era saloons and tree-lined streets of sleepy bungalows invite you to pedal around soaking up all the good vibes. There

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is plenty to do outdoors. Style-wise, Durango is torn between its ragtime past and a cool, cutting-edge future where townie bikes, caffeine and farmers markets rule. The town’s historic central precinct is home to boutiques, bars, restaurants and theater halls. Foodies will revel in the innovative organic and locavore fare that is making it the best place to eat in the state. But the interesting galleries and live music, combined with a relaxed and congenial local populace, also make it a great place to visit.

2 Activities Mountain Biking

CYCLING

oDurango & Silverton

Narrow Gauge Railroad RAILWAY (% 970-247-2733; www.durangotrain.com; 479 Main Ave; return adult/child 4-11yr from $85/51; h May-Oct; c ) Riding the Durango & Silver-

ton Narrow Gauge Railroad is a Durango must. These vintage steam locomotives have been making the scenic 45-mile trip north to Silverton (3½ hours each way) for more than 125 years. The dazzling journey allows two hours for exploring Silverton. This trip operates only from May through October. Check online for winter options. Durango Mountain Resort SNOW SPORTS (% 970-247-9000; www.durangomountainresort. com; 1 Skier Pl; lift tickets adult/child from $77/45; h mid-Nov–Mar; c ) Durango Mountain Re-

sort, 25 miles north of Durango on US 550, is Durango’s winter highlight. The resort, also known as Purgatory, offers 1200 skiable acres of varying difficulty and boasts 260in of snow per year. Two terrain parks offer plenty of opportunities for snowboarders to catch big air. Check local grocery stores and newspapers for promotions and 2-for-1 lift tickets

4 Sleeping Adobe Inn MOTEL $ (% 970-247-2743; www.durangohotels.com; 2178 Main Ave; d $84; n a iW ) Locally voted the

best lodging value, this friendly motel gets the job done with clean, decent rooms and friendly service. You might even be able to talk staff into giving their best rate if you arrive late at night. Check out the Durango tip sheet.

oRochester House

HOTEL $$

(% 970-385-1920, toll-free 800-664-1920; www. rochesterhotel.com; 721 E 2nd Ave; d $169-229; n a W # ) Influenced by old Westerns (mov-

ie posters and marquee lights adorn the hallways), the Rochester is a little bit of old Hollywood in the new West. Rooms are spacious, with high ceilings. Two formal sitting rooms, where you’re served cookies, and a breakfast room in an old train car are other perks at this pet-friendly establishment. Strater Hotel HOTEL $$$ (% 970-247-4431; www.strater.com; 699 Main Ave; d $197-257; naiW ) The past lives large in

this historical Durango hotel with walnut antiques, hand-stenciled wallpapers and relics ranging from a Stradivarius violin to a gold-plated Winchester. Rooms lean toward the romantic, with comfortable beds amid antiques, crystal and lace. The boast-worthy staff goes out of its way to assist with inquiries.

5 Eating & Drinking Durango Diner DINER $$ (% 970-247-9889; www.durangodiner.com; 957 Main Ave; mains $7-18; h 6am-2pm Mon-Sat, 6am-1pm Sun; v c ) To watch Gary work

the grill in this lovable greasy spoon is to be in the presence of greatness. Backed by button-cute waitstaff, Gary’s fluid, graceful wielding of a Samurai spatula turns out downright monstrous plates of eggs, smothered potatoes and French toast. The best diner in the state? No doubt. Jean Pierre Bakery FRENCH, BAKERY $$ (% 970-247-7700; www.jeanpierrebakery.com; 601 Main Ave; mains $9-22; h 8am-9pm; vc ) A

charming patisserie serving mouthwatering delicacies made from scratch. Breakfasts are all-out while dinner is a much more formal affair. Prices are dear, but the soup-andsandwich lunch special with a sumptuous

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From steep single-track to scenic road rides, Durango is a national hub for mountain biking. The easy Old Railroad Grade Trail is a 12.2-mile loop that uses both US Hwy 160 and a dirt road following the old railway tracks. From Durango take Hwy 160 west through the town of Hesperus. Turn right into the Cherry Creek Picnic Area, where the trail starts. For something a bit more technical, try Dry Fork Loop, accessible from Lightner Creek just west of town. It has some great drops, blind corners and vegetation. Cycling shops on Main or Second Ave rent out mountain bikes.

and other ski season specials before purchasing directly from the ticket window.

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French pastry (we recommend the sticky pecan roll) is a deal. East by Southwest FUSION, SUSHI $$ (% 970-247-5533; http://eastbysouthwest.com; 160 E College Dr; sushi $4-13, mains $12-24; h 11:30am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun; vc ) S Low-lit but vibrant, it’s packed

with locals on date night. Skip the standards for goose-bump–good sashimi with jalapeño or rolls with mang

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